I about lost my mind when I started hearing pinging from the top end of my 2.3, at 17k- thank you for actually showing us these parts; it's the best way that us laymen have of visualizing what we can clearly hear when these things are cold.
I've been doing 5k interval oil change which is what the dealership suggested. But then they are not a tech breaking these engines down. I'll go to 3k or 3.5 k going forward. Thanks as usual!!
You really have a 5000 mile oil change recomendation in the US? Here in Germany its 12500 miles (20000km). I get laughed at for changing my oil every 6200 miles (10000km). While the car was under warrenty I stuck to the WSS-M2C948-B 5W20 oil. After that I switched to the FORD WSS-M2C913-D 5W30 oil wich drastically reduced oil consumption from about 1l per 10000km down to 0.1l per 10000km. By the looks of it it won't matter though. The coolant level started dropping a while ago, could be the usual problem with the block design.
I bought a 2022 ford edge with a 2.0 eb and that bucket was quiet for about 500 miles. Now it is almost offensive at 3k miles. I am going to go get and oil change and switch out to AMSoil like I have been in all my cars since the late 90s... Now that I see how this works I am hoping that it will quiet that down again. Thanks for the teardown and explanation.
My 1.5 struggles to accelerate when it's cold, such as sitting over night in freezing temperatures. But after 5 minutes or so it runs fine. Has 158,000 miles on it and I've always changed oil every 3,000 miles.
I bought my 2017 Escape 1.5 used from Canada. I’ve replaced the bucket twice. It still gets scored. What about removing the cam cover and polishing the cam? Trying hard not to replace the exhaust cam…..
Hi in Europe the oil service recommendation by the manufacturer is 20K kms (12,500miles). I have bought a 3-year-old Kuga(Escape) with 53K kms (33,125miles) on the clock. They changed oil in it after 12K miles, now I am going to change it after 3K miles (5000km). I hope the first owner hasn't completely messed up the engine with that long oil change intervals. Thanks for the video. I would have one question. What do you think the best kind of oil is for this engine? The manufacturer recommends (according to the dealership) 5W 20 but the printed Ford service manual that comes with the car recommends 5w 30. Which one should I use? Thanks for you help.
Hey ford boss! Just called the dealer with the inquiry on part number for new 1.5 and they are going around 1250 bucks for the short block. That is not a bad deal when faced with not finding rebuild parts ANYWHERE for this engine.
And then you're talking about another $600 in gaskets and O-rings things like that and then about 20 hours in labor to rebuild much is about $150 an hour so safely around 5,000 bucks had a full service shop that's doing it at full rate
If you're going to change the oil maybe drop a couple ice cubes on top of the bucket and let it get the bucket cold see if it shrinks then try to pull it out or if you have some like nitrogen blow a bunch of nitrogen on top of the bucket see if it will shrink some and pull it out or you may have to weld something to the center of it like a thin bolt and pull it out or if you think you can put like a little small tiny pilot hole in it somewhere and grab it with a pick and pull it out or you can scuff up the inside of the bucket clean all the oil out of it scuff it up real good put a bolt down inside it and then put some JB Weld inside the bucket try to pull it out that way with the epoxy but let it dry completely
The manufacturers need to be more frank and accurate with the service intervals they suggest to their customers. Consumers don't know about the metallurgy of their engine components, design choices made, stress/strain levels, and expected wear patterns. They buy expertise when they buy the product. The manufacturer should have those bases covered in their service recommendations.
I think it's absolutely stupid that the minimum oil specified is Motocraft Syn-blend, it'd be fine for 5000-7500mi oil changes in like the 2.0, 2.3, or 2.5l, but in these TGDI engines, synthetic should be the minimum it calls for and the service intervals need to be reasonable like Hyundai/Kia, Kyundai recommends 6000mi on their TGDI engines, but with a big but, if the engine is operated in severe service conditions, which is almost all "normal" driving conditions then the interval should be cut in half, plus they say to use full synthetic, in any of these engines that you're not running mostly on the highway 3000-4000mi on full syn should be when you change it, at the store people should be looking for full synthetic oil in the appropriate viscosity with the Dexos approval logo on it, it's the one thing that GM has that's actually good, it's sort of been the driving force in the industry to improve the minimum standard of oils, with the upcoming Dexos 1 Gen. 3 spec they're getting more stringent on a lot of the issues that impact small displacement turbo engines, when Dexos 1 Gen 3 lubricants become available that's the minimum spec that I'd use in any small displacement turbo engine.
So is 5k to much with a good synthetic? I use Mobil 1 thanks to your earlier videos about synthetic but I know Ford still uses “blend” oil at their dealership so I take my own oil.
Mobil 1 thanks to my earlier videos? I don't really push mobile one because it's not really all that special even though it's okay there's nothing special about it
You just have to keep doing oil changes and changing the filter you're never going to get the medal at 100% really wouldn't that Metals in the engine that's typically means the engine is on borrowed time and it's done that that point so you better get whatever you can out of it sometimes it lasts a long time sometimes it's just a couple months
@@FordBossMe and there is no risk to damage the engine, because I just changed the pallet and I found a big whole on it. Than I checked the camshaft intake and exhaust one, I found metal debris on both. I changed both of them with new ones too. Thank you for your feedback
Wife's escape is on second engin because it drank coolant. (Ford replaced) The new engine gets Amsoil 5w20 and changed every 3 thousand miles ,i dont want to buy engin #3😅 The first engine got the same oil change interval i wasted alot of oil in that one.
I would suggest switching to Valvoline high mileage Ultra maxlife technology trust me you love me forever it's just as good as the Amsoil if not better and it's a lot cheaper
So my 19 f150 has the infamous knock at warm idle on a 5.0. I know its not an EB but the same issue I have applies here. I poked around with a stethoscope and found the noise is directly in line with the hpfp on the passenger head just above the exhaust manifold just Below the valve cover, pretty much right on that square casting mark on the head furthest to the right I'm assuming in the area the pump rides on the cam. It's pretty loud as in i can hear it 100ft away VERY clearly at warm idle. Everywhere on the block is pretty quiet and the top of the pump under the foam they put on it is pretty quiet too. It's just isolated to that specific area I noted. So now thats out of the way, is there any lash adjustment for the plunger on the hpfp? Or is there a part that can come loose inside it and cause that lifter tap type noise at idle inside that pump that'll still allow it to function as normal just noisier? It's only at warm idle at around 600rpm. Runs great but just noisey as all hell and pretty concerning. 43k miles. Oil changed every 3500-4000 since I bought it at 29k. Am I over thinking this or is it something I should bring up to my service advisor?
@@FordBossMe as I wrote that long paragraph there it actually came to my mind possibly it's a lubrication issue on the fuel pump lobes hitting the bucket. I only run 500s MC filters and Motorcraft 5w20 until my last 2 changes and I switched to 5w30. It actually helped tremendously but came back just as loud around 2k miles. I switched to 5w30 full syn Castrol earlier today and it's pretty much the same results as with MC semi syn 5w30. Still there just not as loud. Only used 1/4 qt of oil in 3800mi.
Just a question about the oil viscosity; Would you recommend 5W 20 or 5W 30 for the 1.5 Ecoboos? (The dealership says 5w20 but my user manual reads 5w 30.
@@FordBossMe Thanks for your reply. However, what I wanted to know was whether you have any personal experience as to whether 5w 30 makes any difference over 5w 20 in case of Ford Escape 1.5 Ecoboost enginse.
Next time you get 1 of these 1.5 in, check the gas mileage. I never reset my trip 2. In 26000 miles I average 27.5. My engine never burns oil, still runs good. 99% highway miles. Been changing the oil at 8000 miles. If the gas mileage is low, lot of city driving, or flooring it every time they take off! I would appreciate the info on the next engine replacement.
your engine does burn oil I can promise that, the way these engines are set up is they pull oil into the intake manifold and then back into the motor with air and fuel very slowly if you have luck doing what you do then great, I can't speak for that. what most people don't get regardless of what they believe is if your not changing your oil and your not looking inside these motors to see what's going on how do you know what's REALLY going on?! YOU DONT and that's why you have guys like me that will show you inside what's happening you won't pay for it now but I promise you will in the long 8000k miles no way I'd never think of it but it's your vehicle, what do I know lol....I'm only pulling 1 a week apart 🤔 now this is obviously me being somewhat sarcastic and I mean no disrespect I will indeed check the trip 2
@@FordBossMe I have a 2016 1.5 ecoboost in a Focus (built in Thailand for the Australian market) with 60k miles on it, oil is changed every 5k miles unless when I track it then it gets changed before and after. So far it's never burnt enough oil for me to notice and only drama I've had is with a rough idle during warm up after I started doing short trips which a can of GDi intake cleaner sorted. Interestingly in Europe the 1L EB seems to be causing grief while in the US it seems to be the 1.5. Wonder if it's a size thing as personally I believe the 3 cylinder 1L is too small for the Focus and same with the 1.5L in the Fusion. Are the manufacturers asking to much from these smaller engines?
Ok so should i do my changes @ 3k instead of 5k? My manual says 10k for my 2020 f150 5.0. And if i Coat my undercarraige with protectant will that void my warranty? Thanks again for another great warning brotha!!!
I would do them as soon as you can I wouldn't wait 5000 miles every time and every once in awhile I ask him to give you a little sample so we can look at it and see what it looks like
@@FordBossMe Thank you Should i continue to do my oil changes thru a dealership for warranty purposes especially since i have ESP or will they accept me doing my own every so often?
It's always best to have the dealership do it for the simple fact that you do have a warranty because I've seen people get into arguments with the dealer when they do their own when they have to do Serious warranty repairs
I dont want to give you the wrong info, I'd call and ask the dealer you use. I would assume as long as it's recorded it'll be fine but let your dealer tell you that
@Ford Boss Me - if someone was still doing a 5,000 mile interval oil change, would it be better to use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil? Would that help to reduce wear compared to using conventional motor oil.
Im thinking idling these motors aint doin them any good either, fuel dilution coupled with mediocre oil and silly oci's is a good recipe for a short engine life without serious, costly issues.
@@FordBossMe Pump looks fine when lifted, bucket was not stuck. The crank sensor reads rpm 'seemingly' fine... got the car to start today (holding gas pedal 2/3 then full open) and it really spit and bucked until 2000 rpm and then just sounded very off...anything below 1500 and it wants to quit... so the codes it spit out were p0365 and p0369 for cam sensor... swapped sensors from intake to exhaust and the fault did not follow, both sensors had same resistance and same readings on power/signal/ground (5v, 4.7v, 0v) for intake and exhaust... fuel pressure pretty much matches desired now that it ran -1700 psi at that moment... could the spark timing be off or could this be how the bad crank sensor might act? Sorry for the long message. Any help is much appreciated.
@@FordBossMe LOL, I'm guessing the dreaded "I like to drink anti-freeze" problem. Anyhow looking at that bucket with 5K OCI's I really don't see a problem. Yes it is a little scored on the outside but it also is probably the furthest oiled part from the oil pump. What do you think? I think those little scores are just from cold starts.
i could never own one of these modern micro turbo engines , its just a bad idea to get on the governments good side and sell a product that breaks alot. i would not want to have to change my oil with expensive synthetic oil that often even DIY my oil change comes out to about $43 for the stuff on my 3.6 gm motor, ill stick to natural aspirated engines as long as i can.
drinking the ford cool-aid..3k oil changes and "i promise you"... that is hilarious.. is that after you already put the "updated" engine in??? those engines are garbage... 1600 dollar long block.. get real bro my lawn mower has a more expensive powerplant in it
lol watch my mouth??? for what? laughing at your ignorant theories? i feel bad for every one in here that owns one.. i feel worse for the people taking your advice to change oil at 3k. id like to discuss the oil life system strategy with you but judging by the assembly line work you do for a living you have no idea what im talking about and have zero experience tracking it in a REAL world situation.. you should be thankful for these POS powerplants, i know i am! these will help propel me to a fat retirement! you as well, Have a great day @@FordBossMe
I about lost my mind when I started hearing pinging from the top end of my 2.3, at 17k- thank you for actually showing us these parts; it's the best way that us laymen have of visualizing what we can clearly hear when these things are cold.
I've been doing 5k interval oil change which is what the dealership suggested. But then they are not a tech breaking these engines down. I'll go to 3k or 3.5 k going forward. Thanks as usual!!
they have to do what the manufacturer says interval wise but I don't lol
i have an obligation to the customer and fixing the vehicle right
You really have a 5000 mile oil change recomendation in the US? Here in Germany its 12500 miles (20000km). I get laughed at for changing my oil every 6200 miles (10000km). While the car was under warrenty I stuck to the WSS-M2C948-B 5W20 oil. After that I switched to the FORD WSS-M2C913-D 5W30 oil wich drastically reduced oil consumption from about 1l per 10000km down to 0.1l per 10000km. By the looks of it it won't matter though. The coolant level started dropping a while ago, could be the usual problem with the block design.
I bought a 2022 ford edge with a 2.0 eb and that bucket was quiet for about 500 miles. Now it is almost offensive at 3k miles. I am going to go get and oil change and switch out to AMSoil like I have been in all my cars since the late 90s... Now that I see how this works I am hoping that it will quiet that down again. Thanks for the teardown and explanation.
My 1.5 struggles to accelerate when it's cold, such as sitting over night in freezing temperatures. But after 5 minutes or so it runs fine. Has 158,000 miles on it and I've always changed oil every 3,000 miles.
Would the motor have to be pulled to change that camshaft? And does it take any special tools?
I bought my 2017 Escape 1.5 used from Canada. I’ve replaced the bucket twice. It still gets scored. What about removing the cam cover and polishing the cam? Trying hard not to replace the exhaust cam…..
Hi in Europe the oil service recommendation by the manufacturer is 20K kms (12,500miles). I have bought a 3-year-old Kuga(Escape) with 53K kms (33,125miles) on the clock. They changed oil in it after 12K miles, now I am going to change it after 3K miles (5000km).
I hope the first owner hasn't completely messed up the engine with that long oil change intervals. Thanks for the video.
I would have one question. What do you think the best kind of oil is for this engine? The manufacturer recommends (according to the dealership) 5W 20 but the printed Ford service manual that comes with the car recommends 5w 30. Which one should I use?
Thanks for you help.
Yeah that's a really long time
Hey ford boss! Just called the dealer with the inquiry on part number for new 1.5 and they are going around 1250 bucks for the short block. That is not a bad deal when faced with not finding rebuild parts ANYWHERE for this engine.
Yeah the dealer cost for that short box is about $650 they double it to the customer
And then you're talking about another $600 in gaskets and O-rings things like that and then about 20 hours in labor to rebuild much is about $150 an hour so safely around 5,000 bucks had a full service shop that's doing it at full rate
Luckily I’ll be doing the install on my own. Thanks for your help Sir!
Great information 👍🏻
Prime engine at oil change, especially if you're going to overdue it changing every 3k! Lucas oil treatment, full synthetic you can easily go 5k
Have one right now I can't get the bucket out of. Any suggestions. Great video.
If you're going to change the oil maybe drop a couple ice cubes on top of the bucket and let it get the bucket cold see if it shrinks then try to pull it out or if you have some like nitrogen blow a bunch of nitrogen on top of the bucket see if it will shrink some and pull it out or you may have to weld something to the center of it like a thin bolt and pull it out or if you think you can put like a little small tiny pilot hole in it somewhere and grab it with a pick and pull it out or you can scuff up the inside of the bucket clean all the oil out of it scuff it up real good put a bolt down inside it and then put some JB Weld inside the bucket try to pull it out that way with the epoxy but let it dry completely
The manufacturers need to be more frank and accurate with the service intervals they suggest to their customers. Consumers don't know about the metallurgy of their engine components, design choices made, stress/strain levels, and expected wear patterns. They buy expertise when they buy the product. The manufacturer should have those bases covered in their service recommendations.
They want to advertise a lower cost of ownership. That's the only excuse I can think of.
I wish the Bronco Sport had a Non turbo option.
I think it's absolutely stupid that the minimum oil specified is Motocraft Syn-blend, it'd be fine for 5000-7500mi oil changes in like the 2.0, 2.3, or 2.5l, but in these TGDI engines, synthetic should be the minimum it calls for and the service intervals need to be reasonable like Hyundai/Kia, Kyundai recommends 6000mi on their TGDI engines, but with a big but, if the engine is operated in severe service conditions, which is almost all "normal" driving conditions then the interval should be cut in half, plus they say to use full synthetic, in any of these engines that you're not running mostly on the highway 3000-4000mi on full syn should be when you change it, at the store people should be looking for full synthetic oil in the appropriate viscosity with the Dexos approval logo on it, it's the one thing that GM has that's actually good, it's sort of been the driving force in the industry to improve the minimum standard of oils, with the upcoming Dexos 1 Gen. 3 spec they're getting more stringent on a lot of the issues that impact small displacement turbo engines, when Dexos 1 Gen 3 lubricants become available that's the minimum spec that I'd use in any small displacement turbo engine.
So is 5k to much with a good synthetic? I use Mobil 1 thanks to your earlier videos about synthetic but I know Ford still uses “blend” oil at their dealership so I take my own oil.
Mobil 1 thanks to my earlier videos? I don't really push mobile one because it's not really all that special even though it's okay there's nothing special about it
Yeah 5000 is good I always say 5,000 I've been saying 5,000 for years but that's Max and no more
Now, hw to clean the engine from that metal please??? THANK U
You just have to keep doing oil changes and changing the filter you're never going to get the medal at 100% really wouldn't that Metals in the engine that's typically means the engine is on borrowed time and it's done that that point so you better get whatever you can out of it sometimes it lasts a long time sometimes it's just a couple months
@@FordBossMe and there is no risk to damage the engine, because I just changed the pallet and I found a big whole on it. Than I checked the camshaft intake and exhaust one, I found metal debris on both. I changed both of them with new ones too. Thank you for your feedback
Wife's escape is on second engin because it drank coolant. (Ford replaced) The new engine gets Amsoil 5w20 and changed every 3 thousand miles ,i dont want to buy engin #3😅 The first engine got the same oil change interval i wasted alot of oil in that one.
I would suggest switching to Valvoline high mileage Ultra maxlife technology trust me you love me forever it's just as good as the Amsoil if not better and it's a lot cheaper
Hello, my 1.6 ecoboost vehicle gives p2636 error. Could the problem be due to tapet?
So my 19 f150 has the infamous knock at warm idle on a 5.0. I know its not an EB but the same issue I have applies here.
I poked around with a stethoscope and found the noise is directly in line with the hpfp on the passenger head just above the exhaust manifold just Below the valve cover, pretty much right on that square casting mark on the head furthest to the right I'm assuming in the area the pump rides on the cam. It's pretty loud as in i can hear it 100ft away VERY clearly at warm idle. Everywhere on the block is pretty quiet and the top of the pump under the foam they put on it is pretty quiet too. It's just isolated to that specific area I noted.
So now thats out of the way, is there any lash adjustment for the plunger on the hpfp? Or is there a part that can come loose inside it and cause that lifter tap type noise at idle inside that pump that'll still allow it to function as normal just noisier?
It's only at warm idle at around 600rpm. Runs great but just noisey as all hell and pretty concerning.
43k miles. Oil changed every 3500-4000 since I bought it at 29k. Am I over thinking this or is it something I should bring up to my service advisor?
Fuel 87? Needs to be 91 or higher preferably 93
It'll quiet it down some
I only run 93. Have since day 1.
@@FordBossMe as I wrote that long paragraph there it actually came to my mind possibly it's a lubrication issue on the fuel pump lobes hitting the bucket.
I only run 500s MC filters and Motorcraft 5w20 until my last 2 changes and I switched to 5w30. It actually helped tremendously but came back just as loud around 2k miles. I switched to 5w30 full syn Castrol earlier today and it's pretty much the same results as with MC semi syn 5w30. Still there just not as loud. Only used 1/4 qt of oil in 3800mi.
Just a question about the oil viscosity; Would you recommend 5W 20 or 5W 30 for the 1.5 Ecoboos? (The dealership says 5w20 but my user manual reads 5w 30.
Well the manual says you can do either you really can do either
@@FordBossMe Thanks for your reply. However, what I wanted to know was whether you have any personal experience as to whether 5w 30 makes any difference over 5w 20 in case of Ford Escape 1.5 Ecoboost enginse.
Next time you get 1 of these 1.5 in, check the gas mileage. I never reset my trip 2. In 26000 miles I average 27.5. My engine never burns oil, still runs good. 99% highway miles. Been changing the oil at 8000 miles. If the gas mileage is low, lot of city driving, or flooring it every time they take off! I would appreciate the info on the next engine replacement.
your engine does burn oil I can promise that, the way these engines are set up is they pull oil into the intake manifold and then back into the motor with air and fuel very slowly
if you have luck doing what you do then great, I can't speak for that.
what most people don't get regardless of what they believe is if your not changing your oil and your not looking inside these motors to see what's going on how do you know what's REALLY going on?! YOU DONT and that's why you have guys like me that will show you inside what's happening
you won't pay for it now but I promise you will in the long
8000k miles no way I'd never think of it but it's your vehicle, what do I know lol....I'm only pulling 1 a week apart 🤔
now this is obviously me being somewhat sarcastic and I mean no disrespect
I will indeed check the trip 2
@@FordBossMe I have a 2016 1.5 ecoboost in a Focus (built in Thailand for the Australian market) with 60k miles on it, oil is changed every 5k miles unless when I track it then it gets changed before and after.
So far it's never burnt enough oil for me to notice and only drama I've had is with a rough idle during warm up after I started doing short trips which a can of GDi intake cleaner sorted.
Interestingly in Europe the 1L EB seems to be causing grief while in the US it seems to be the 1.5. Wonder if it's a size thing as personally I believe the 3 cylinder 1L is too small for the Focus and same with the 1.5L in the Fusion. Are the manufacturers asking to much from these smaller engines?
Do you need to let it sit over not to disconnect the high pressure fuel line
No wrap a rag around it and disconnect
@@FordBossMe Thank you my friend
What is the bucket called
Ok so should i do my changes @ 3k instead of 5k? My manual says 10k for my 2020 f150 5.0. And if i Coat my undercarraige with protectant will that void my warranty? Thanks again for another great warning brotha!!!
I would do them as soon as you can I wouldn't wait 5000 miles every time and every once in awhile I ask him to give you a little sample so we can look at it and see what it looks like
Coating the undercarriage is not going to void warranty
@@FordBossMe Thank you Should i continue to do my oil changes thru a dealership for warranty purposes especially since i have ESP or will they accept me doing my own every so often?
It's always best to have the dealership do it for the simple fact that you do have a warranty because I've seen people get into arguments with the dealer when they do their own when they have to do Serious warranty repairs
I dont want to give you the wrong info, I'd call and ask the dealer you use. I would assume as long as it's recorded it'll be fine but let your dealer tell you that
@Ford Boss Me - if someone was still doing a 5,000 mile interval oil change, would it be better to use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic Oil? Would that help to reduce wear compared to using conventional motor oil.
Sure mobile one is a really good oil
I'd still like to see less than 5k
@@FordBossMe Got it. Thanks!
Im thinking idling these motors aint doin them any good either, fuel dilution coupled with mediocre oil and silly oci's is a good recipe for a short engine life without serious, costly issues.
Hi, is the 1.5 eco has a fuel filter other than the one in the pump in the tank? If yes do you have any video or tip how to access it?
No there's no other one
Alright, do you know how to access it? Don’t have any access under the back seat. Have to drop the tank?
That bucket can we buy it separate, n where can I get it ? N the cost?
Google your engine size and high pressure pump Cam Bucket
There is a Ford company called Itasca parts I like
It’s the people failing
If the desired fuel pressure is 54 psi and the actual pressure is 775 psi, will the car start? I have a crank/no start at the moment '15 Fusion 1.5 L
Yes
Check crank sensor or move up the hp fuel pump and check the pump drive
@@FordBossMe Pump looks fine when lifted, bucket was not stuck. The crank sensor reads rpm 'seemingly' fine... got the car to start today (holding gas pedal 2/3 then full open) and it really spit and bucked until 2000 rpm and then just sounded very off...anything below 1500 and it wants to quit... so the codes it spit out were p0365 and p0369 for cam sensor... swapped sensors from intake to exhaust and the fault did not follow, both sensors had same resistance and same readings on power/signal/ground (5v, 4.7v, 0v) for intake and exhaust... fuel pressure pretty much matches desired now that it ran -1700 psi at that moment... could the spark timing be off or could this be how the bad crank sensor might act? Sorry for the long message. Any help is much appreciated.
What the name for that part that goes with fuel pressure pump the thing you say Bucket or is called bucket
actually called a cam bucket for the high pressure fuel pump
Google standard Motor Products and then type in this part number
143436-05731244
Why exactly was the engine pulled?
1.5L Ecoboost
@@FordBossMe LOL, I'm guessing the dreaded "I like to drink anti-freeze" problem. Anyhow looking at that bucket with 5K OCI's I really don't see a problem. Yes it is a little scored on the outside but it also is probably the furthest oiled part from the oil pump. What do you think? I think those little scores are just from cold starts.
@@FordBossMe its 3 line or 4
Oh god! Not the 1.5L again! :)))
yep another one
Two tears in a bucket
i could never own one of these modern micro turbo engines , its just a bad idea to get on the governments good side and sell a product that breaks alot. i would not want to have to change my oil with expensive synthetic oil that often even DIY my oil change comes out to about $43 for the stuff on my 3.6 gm motor, ill stick to natural aspirated engines as long as i can.
drinking the ford cool-aid..3k oil changes and "i promise you"... that is hilarious.. is that after you already put the "updated" engine in??? those engines are garbage... 1600 dollar long block.. get real bro my lawn mower has a more expensive powerplant in it
Watch your mouth, if you have questions I'll answer but if not keep moving
Have a great day
lol watch my mouth??? for what? laughing at your ignorant theories? i feel bad for every one in here that owns one.. i feel worse for the people taking your advice to change oil at 3k. id like to discuss the oil life system strategy with you but judging by the assembly line work you do for a living you have no idea what im talking about and have zero experience tracking it in a REAL world situation.. you should be thankful for these POS powerplants, i know i am! these will help propel me to a fat retirement!
you as well, Have a great day @@FordBossMe
Why you shave?!... well, trim
Do you know of how old this video is lol
No thank you