I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! Most of the fleet ran 24/7 my OCI's were every 6,000 miles or 335 hrs of use ! Never had a problem ! These were fords cummins and duramax diesels !
Your use of common sense and consideration for those vehicles is commendable. Out of all the things you can pick to do half-assed through out the day- At least treat your ride right.
Great video and content! Lake is the man, its cool to see him on with you going over real world stuff. I got a diesel again after 20 years and will be sending my oil into Lake. Looking forward to the bypass filter to see how that helps. Cheers!
Thanks guys...always great to have a discussion with Lake....bonus this time specific to the 6.7 powerstroke....helping to keep my 17 f350 dd running...
Same thing happened to my fuel dilution when I used a fuel additive right after I changed the oil. 10k miles later it was still in the sysmindviscosity didn't go down. Or wear. Blew my mind
Awesome analysis Lake and great questions. I would like the discussion and analysis to move toward hours on oil rather than miles or kilometres when it comes to extended drain intervals. Depending on the ratio of highway speeds to city speeds should really change analysis and overall oil life, the same as towing/ working compared to empty driving/ light work. City driving with poor warmup is much harder on engines and wear, it will make DPF/regens happen more often. An engine working harder does decrease regen. Thanks again, great video.
Awesome video. Lake is the oil King. I'd love to see testing on how clean oil is when you take it out sooner rather than later. And the wear factors. Because what they're not mentioning is the sooner you change your oil, the less piston ring and piston wall wear you will have. As the oil collects the dirt not trapped in the filter, it wears and scores the walls and rings over time. So the more often you change the oil, the longer the engine will last and the longer it will run like it was when it was new. Without any wear. Or extremely minimal wear. I happen to have a few Trans Ams that I want to keep like new. They are 30-40 years old now with 80k and 90k but they still run like they did the day they were new because the oil in them has never been in it for more than 17 or 1800 mi. After testing...the compression in both engines is exactly the same as when they were brand new. Now I know that's often to change it. But I want to keep the engines like brand new forever. And I am doing just that. I have the money and it's not a big deal to spend a couple hundred more dollars a year changing oil. I only put 4,000 mi on the cars per year so changing it every 1700 mi from me is really not an issue. But my engines have zero wear full compression and are super clean on the inside. Oil comes out still looking like dark gold . Now that's awesome.. I use Lucas oil for the extra friction protection, and frame endurance oil filters which are the exact same filter as the amsoil filter. With that combination, you can't go wrong on Rite Street. Exactly like Lake says, I never use an oil additive. Because we all know they are no good. As we've seen on his videos. So I know my engines are staying like new and only cost me an extra $100 a year. Thank you Lake for all your awesome oil information.
Hi guys. Great video. I own a Ram 3500 with a 6.7 Cummins that we use for up to 5 months of the USA summer traveling through out the USA and Canada up to 14000 miles in a 5 month period. I have been slowly extending out the oil and filter change intervals over the last couple of years initially at just over 10000 miles, and the last one this week at 12000 miles, again asking if the next change can be extended. Awaiting the test results to see if the trends as per your video that we can extend out further. Keep up these informative videos. Thanks John
I'm no expert but i believe the amount of time you put your miles on plays a part in this too, as far as sludge build up in the engine and valve covers. I change my dd 97 Silverado at 4k but it takes me few months to get it, about 50k on engine rebuild and still looks clean in there
Even though the Bi diesel Is Less Stable and the oxidation dropped more lubricity but you can push the Oil change farther Is a nice bonuses even though you have to do more Regens
Is there any oil analysis parameter for how much oil detergent is still floating free in the oil, vs how much is bound up forming micelles to suspend sludge particles?
THANK you Lake for addressing diesel oil more! I am always looking for cheap and easy ways to try and ensure the life and reliability of my diesel Sprinter vans. These are currently 2023 2.0L HO 4cl OM654 engines. Currently running Motul 8100 x-Clean 5w-40 at twice per year, 6000 mile max. (up to 7500 if running continuous interstate). I am getting oil analysis done. QUESTION: If analysis shows oil interval can go longer Im still concerned about abrasive soot in the oil. Would a filter only change mid-interval with extended interval on oil provide any benefit? Filters on these engines are raw media/caniter type on top of engine so simple to do in 5 min. and $20.
Thanks for the comment! I typically use Amsoil's filter as well, yes. But recently I've been trying Donaldson's 15 micron filter out to see if it impacts my wear metals
Lake made a statement in one of his videos about the oxidation range and where the oil is dead. I think the number was 35 or 36. My question is what oxidation number is a safe cut off number where you feel confident the oil is still performing at an optimum?
For those who don't know. NA diesel standard for wear "wear scar" is 520um and Euro diesel is 460um. Lower is better. The tests used to measure wear differs slightly between the two fuel standards so I don't know how they compare.
My fuel dilution at 7703 miles running Rotella T6 with auto regen off, only letting it regen when it could finish was just a trace. 2022 F450. Oh and I'm in Southeast Missouri. Turn auto regen off, only regen during highway trips and you'll get rid of that fuel dilution.
I live in Missouri with 10% bio and my question is I always run a quart or 2 of MMO in my oil and run that for 100-200 miles before I change my oil to help keep my 05. 5.9 cummins and it says on the bottle of MMO that not to run this in your newer diesels that use DPF because MMO has too much sulfur in it so that would be a good thing to increase the sulfur and more than likely not enough sulfur to mater .
What would you recommend for when to change oil for a guy who doesn’t tow heavy often and daily drives it? I’ve been trying to do mine every 8,000km what would you recommend. Always running additives and ams oil as well.
@@Jonathan-sk3fu Idle hours, stop and go driving, short trips, etc.. Get your oil sample tested, and create a baseline. I stick to 5k miles for any vehicle.
@@Jonathan-sk3fu About $30'ish for base sample, and $40'ish to determine intervals. My sample with top tier detergent fuel, and Pennzoil U.P. oil was top 10% for wear @ 107k miles. They wanted me to go longer than 5k intervals, but I'm not looking to maximize oil lifespan, over engine wear.
Maybe I missed it, but did he change the oil at 11k, or was 11k the latest test interval, and if so…will he continue to run that oil until the testing dictates a change?
Majority of pump diesel fuel has additives, with most containing Power Service. LSD and prior did not contain much, but ULSD is loaded down, especially in the winter months to prevent gelling
Sold amsoil some years ago. Loved the products but hearing about internal varnish issues on the long interval drains. Anyone else hearing or seeing that?
Haven’t heard it mentioned yet in the video, but can you document what the oil life reminder % level stated in the dash for each interval? Wondering how close it was vs the analysis.
Great content and super interesting but for the average person, it would probably be less expensive and less wear on the engine buying a more readily available cheaper oil from Walmart (like t6, delo, etc) and changing it every 6 or 7k miles.
So I'm an auto/diesel tech in the military. They sent us to a Ford 6.7 power stroke class that was held by ford. And the engineers told us the 6.7 was designed to run on a specific diesel fuel (specific cetane rating) and they said that such fuel doesn't even exist in America.... Is this true?
I’d seriously question if that’s true… I know Ford makes some pretty ignorant engineering choices at times, but why would they design the engine to run on a specific cetane rated fuel that isn’t even available where the indented use for the engine is? Just doesn’t make sense.
@@chevyon37s Ford operates siloed Rube Goldberg engineering. They have little to no information of how their engineering package are to interact with any other engineering packages. There is another team responsible for assembling the packages together. As for training issued to the US government. They send a clown that can follow a syllabus. It is a check mark on a contract.
They are talking about the cp4 that was designed around euro diesel. It has a higher cetane rating, better quality, more additives. They say that the reason Americans have so many issues with the cp4 is most of our diesel is 40 cetane with no additives.
@@BJ-vd3rp I know what they were talking about lol the CP4 on a 6.7 for diesel lol .. hence my question. Looks like you partially read my question without fully understanding what I was asking... I had Ford engineers who created this 6.7 tell the entire class the fuel this engine was designed on that fuel dosn't exist in the US.. Jw if that was actually true or not. CP4 pumps diesel fuel. Hence my question lol....guess I had to fully explain my entire question because you got confused.
@@mattdagger1480 The question being is it true that the 6.7 was designed to run on a specific cetane rating of diesel fuel that is unavailable in the US. Yes that is true. Not all diesel fuel is the same. European diesel is generally considered higher quality than American diesel due to higher lubricity and cetane ratings. European standards require a cetane rating of 51, while the U.S. requires a minimum of 40. European diesel contains fewer contaminants and is refined to a higher standard, contributing to better engine performance and longevity. The ford engineers are telling the truth. The answer is euro diesel is different than American diesel. It runs cleaner and lubricates better. You can not find that quality of fuel in America thus the fuel the engine was designed around is not available in the US. Europe has stricter emissions standards for diesel vehicles, such as the Euro 6 standard, which limits NOx emissions more stringently than U.S. regulations One of the ways they have achieved there stricter Euro standards is through better diesel quality with the 51 cetane rating. The 6.7 was made based off the better euro fuel partially because they chose the European designed Bosch Cp4 that has a high failure rate when used with American diesel due partially to the fact that the lower cam is lubricated by diesel. That is where it normally fails due to the lower lubricity and dirtier fuel of the US.
I'm interested in operating RPM vs soot. I see almost nothing out there regarding RPM. My gut feeling is powerstrokes like 2000-2500 rpm, and from my 18 wheeler days, I didn't lug the engine when empty. I use the engine brake and downshift to keep my RPM's in the range and I get 460 mile regens. Also, from a money standpoint and the fact that Texas diesel is up to 20% biodiesel, I'm using Motorcraft oil and changing at 5000 miles. Thoughts?
So there is much more soot at idle and not so much at operating rpm IMHO as this is a know. If you are correct, then lugging the engine should be best as there are fewer rotations. Do you recommend being in the biggest gear possible to get better economy, less wear, and soot just happens? It's not my experience but am I wrong?
Yes you should be sure to run a test on your oil to be sure. And I try to avoid lugging the engine when towing. Empty I let it do it's thing. Typically would downshift to 5th gear with a trailer to get it to 2000 RPMs. I found it to be a better towing experience and it also keeps the EGTs down. No improvement in DPF regen frequency when doing this with bio diesel though
Premium Diesel here in the US is best not to be treated because it is already treated with the best additive package available for the region and weather.
How about Heavy diesel trucks? I drive a Tractor Trailer (KW t680 with paccar mx13 engine) We do oil changes every 60k. We run Chevron DELO synthetic blend 10w30. At first I thought it was crazy however we've been doing it for many years with no engine failures as of yet. We keep our trucks up until around 650k then sell them off and replace them. So it seems in a small pickup diesel engine the same oil should at least last equally as long?
Big industrial diesel engines are built way differently, they aren't delicate like light duty stuff. And big rigs typically have a pretty serious multi-filter setup to keep the oil cleaner for longer. The MX13 has two oil filters for example.
@@braaap6292 yes I realize all of this however lake stated that fuel and moisture are extremely hard on the oil...you can have 10 filters and they won't remove the fuel from the oil.
@braaap6292 I drive truck as well...those engines may be built way differently but they also get worked pretty hard depending on what they are pulling.
Question for Lake: Based on these numbers and the trends that are shown, what would you project for the mileage interval he needs to change this oil at?
@@jonsmith398 generally yes. But a regular fueling station that has clean storage tanks and regular product turn over is fine. It’s usually smaller mom n’ pop out of the way stations with poor fuel storage practices that can have questionable fuel. My dad had a duramax from 2001-2015. And for the first 5 years or so he’d always fuel up at the same station if he was in town. Like clock work every 15-20k miles he’d have to change the fuel filter or it would be so plugged the truck would go into limp mode… usually while pulling a trailer. At 99k miles he had the injectors replaced (very common on the first generation LB7 duramaxes) and the tech noted while its a common problem with them the fuel filter was full of rust particles. After that he questioned where he was getting fuel, he quit filling up there and the truck stopped plugging filters and going into limp mode for the next 250k miles. And he’d go even longer between fuel filter changes. Long story short, just keep your fuel and water separator filters changed frequently and you don’t have to worry about it.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option You’re pretty lucky then. I’ve also gotten premium gasoline that was about 30% water from a station while filling up my Harley before. Ran horrible all the way home, and it ended up ruining the fuel pump.
My 7.3 gets its 14 quarts and pint of HotShot Secret every 5000 miles. 413,000 miles. No blow by. No major engine repairs. Couple of power steering/ brake booster hoses. Transmission rebuilt and torque converter beefed up at 210,000. Always a 7.3 weak spot. Alternator. A/C clutch. High pressure fuel lines $300 for all 3. Can’t complain. 2002 4WD Lariat been paid for since 2006. I can’t justify $100k for a new 6.7 when my maintenance and pesky repairs are less than one or two payments on new one. Cummins /Duramax are trash. 6.7 has its own problems just not as bad. Change that oil. It’s cheap. Screw the green know it alls.
So you equate efficiencies with green, and green with negative. What a sad life. Remember your lack of understanding does not change the complexities of the world around you.
Ever since I stupidly replaced my cast iron power steering pump with the pop metal replacement I go through a pump every 50k miles. I should have rebuilt the original one.
I don't know why everybody makes such a big deal about how many miles you can go before you get your oil change I have a 24 Peterbilt with a Cummins 15 liter 500 horsepower my next oil change is coming up the recommended service interval is 65,000 mi I'm currently at 175,000 and this will be the third oil change
A heavy duty diesel engine in a semi truck also has nearly 3 times the oil capacity of the light duty diesel engines found in pickup trucks. The increased oil capacity has just that… more capacity to carry dirty particles and more additives and oil to be used before break down. But yes, many people are taking out perfectly good oil for new oil too soon.
Wow, I really enjoy the interaction between you and Lake in this series of videos! Do you use Amsoil's 100% Synthetic Gear Lube for your differentials and Amsoil's 100% Synthetic ATF for your transmission?
Thank you for the comment. Glad it’s helpful! I do use Amsoil’s gear oil for both differentials and their ATF for my transmission. Their ATF fluid lowered my trans temps by 10 degrees over the Mercon LV from ford
@secretsquirrel9722 we can't tell you how far to go. Thats like telling you how to spend your money. I can tell you to get an analysis done. To see what is going on. It tells the story of whether or not that oil is good and can still be used and doing it's job or is getting used up. Everyone's mileage is different. Depends on where you live, how you drive, etc etc etc
So fix your oil leaks?? I’ve been running AMSOIL in my Chevy for 80,000+ miles and it doesn’t leak out… and I actually have AMSOIL fluids in every place fluid is needed except for the brake fluid and coolant.
@@powerstrokemaintenance I found it on google scholar. there is good research in the area. Sadly I dont remember the source of the research. also Duel fuel Diesel engines are interesting thing to consider for lower fuel costs.
I don’t care how great they say it is or even what any tests show, I wouldn’t come anywhere near close that mileage. You’re flirtin with disaster in my book, but that’s just my opinion.
@dkh100 So what happens when an issue arises at 3k miles, you wouldn't know about it until 8k miles later. Unless you sample every thousand. Samples aren't free. By 11k you would have paid for the oil in the cost of samples.
Thank you for watching!
@powerstrokemaintenance 16:55 what fuel station was it?
Thank you for the upload
Love’s in Edon Ohio
Man, I want to see Lake do a deep dive on AmsOil and how it compares to other brands.
I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! Most of the fleet ran 24/7 my OCI's were every 6,000 miles or 335 hrs of use ! Never had a problem ! These were fords cummins and duramax diesels !
Your use of common sense and consideration for those vehicles is commendable.
Out of all the things you can pick to do half-assed through out the day-
At least treat your ride right.
Even though I don’t own a Powerstroke (uh-em, Duramax) I found this incredibly helpful. Thanks for a great video!
Thank you!
Regarding filters, use the Purolator BOSS. It is made for these type of intervals and full synthetic oil.
I'll check it out thanks
Great video and content! Lake is the man, its cool to see him on with you going over real world stuff. I got a diesel again after 20 years and will be sending my oil into Lake. Looking forward to the bypass filter to see how that helps. Cheers!
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks guys...always great to have a discussion with Lake....bonus this time specific to the 6.7 powerstroke....helping to keep my 17 f350 dd running...
Funny, I ran exactly 11k on my 6.7 on the last oil change, 10w30 Amsoil. Oil was still like new.
Lake is the bomb! Great video
Same thing happened to my fuel dilution when I used a fuel additive right after I changed the oil. 10k miles later it was still in the sysmindviscosity didn't go down. Or wear. Blew my mind
That's wild!
Awesome analysis Lake and great questions. I would like the discussion and analysis to move toward hours on oil rather than miles or kilometres when it comes to extended drain intervals. Depending on the ratio of highway speeds to city speeds should really change analysis and overall oil life, the same as towing/ working compared to empty driving/ light work. City driving with poor warmup is much harder on engines and wear, it will make DPF/regens happen more often. An engine working harder does decrease regen. Thanks again, great video.
Thanks for the comment!
Awesome video. Lake is the oil King. I'd love to see testing on how clean oil is when you take it out sooner rather than later. And the wear factors. Because what they're not mentioning is the sooner you change your oil, the less piston ring and piston wall wear you will have. As the oil collects the dirt not trapped in the filter, it wears and scores the walls and rings over time. So the more often you change the oil, the longer the engine will last and the longer it will run like it was when it was new. Without any wear. Or extremely minimal wear. I happen to have a few Trans Ams that I want to keep like new. They are 30-40 years old now with 80k and 90k but they still run like they did the day they were new because the oil in them has never been in it for more than 17 or 1800 mi. After testing...the compression in both engines is exactly the same as when they were brand new. Now I know that's often to change it. But I want to keep the engines like brand new forever. And I am doing just that. I have the money and it's not a big deal to spend a couple hundred more dollars a year changing oil. I only put 4,000 mi on the cars per year so changing it every 1700 mi from me is really not an issue. But my engines have zero wear full compression and are super clean on the inside. Oil comes out still looking like dark gold . Now that's awesome.. I use Lucas oil for the extra friction protection, and frame endurance oil filters which are the exact same filter as the amsoil filter. With that combination, you can't go wrong on Rite Street. Exactly like Lake says, I never use an oil additive. Because we all know they are no good. As we've seen on his videos. So I know my engines are staying like new and only cost me an extra $100 a year. Thank you Lake for all your awesome oil information.
This series with lake speed are awesome, can't wait to see 12k now 😂
Glad you like them!
Great vid guys
Thank you!
Hi guys. Great video. I own a Ram 3500 with a 6.7 Cummins that we use for up to 5 months of the USA summer traveling through out the USA and Canada up to 14000 miles in a 5 month period. I have been slowly extending out the oil and filter change intervals over the last couple of years initially at just over 10000 miles, and the last one this week at 12000 miles, again asking if the next change can be extended. Awaiting the test results to see if the trends as per your video that we can extend out further.
Keep up these informative videos.
Thanks
John
Thank you for the comment! Best of luck with your truck
I'm no expert but i believe the amount of time you put your miles on plays a part in this too, as far as sludge build up in the engine and valve covers. I change my dd 97 Silverado at 4k but it takes me few months to get it, about 50k on engine rebuild and still looks clean in there
This is why many diesel trucks have hour meters and odometers.
What a great discussion video 18:44
Even though the Bi diesel Is Less Stable and the oxidation dropped more lubricity but you can push the Oil change farther Is a nice bonuses even though you have to do more Regens
Great video awesome Information
Is there any oil analysis parameter for how much oil detergent is still floating free in the oil, vs how much is bound up forming micelles to suspend sludge particles?
THANK you Lake for addressing diesel oil more!
I am always looking for cheap and easy ways to try and ensure the life and reliability of my diesel Sprinter vans. These are currently 2023 2.0L HO 4cl OM654 engines. Currently running Motul 8100 x-Clean 5w-40 at twice per year, 6000 mile max. (up to 7500 if running continuous interstate). I am getting oil analysis done. QUESTION: If analysis shows oil interval can go longer Im still concerned about abrasive soot in the oil. Would a filter only change mid-interval with extended interval on oil provide any benefit? Filters on these engines are raw media/caniter type on top of engine so simple to do in 5 min. and $20.
Good question. I can’t speak for Lake but if the analysis doesn’t indicate additional wear your filter is fine to run the miles.
Great watching , 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
@powerstrokemaintenance great breakdown. Loved the video and I enjoy your videos, keep it up!! I cant remember, do you use the amsoil filter or OEM?
Thanks for the comment! I typically use Amsoil's filter as well, yes. But recently I've been trying Donaldson's 15 micron filter out to see if it impacts my wear metals
@powerstrokemaintenance
I was looking at that filter too. 15 at 99 vs Amsoil at 20 at 99. I'm curious to see the AUO. Thanks for the great content!!!
Lake made a statement in one of his videos about the oxidation range and where the oil is dead. I think the number was 35 or 36. My question is what oxidation number is a safe cut off number where you feel confident the oil is still performing at an optimum?
Amsoil is best oil on the planet!!
For those who don't know. NA diesel standard for wear "wear scar" is 520um and Euro diesel is 460um. Lower is better. The tests used to measure wear differs slightly between the two fuel standards so I don't know how they compare.
I saw some of your other videos. Are you using archoil additive in your oil with Amsoil?
No, not any more. Amsoil is so good you don’t need anything else. There was no added benefit or reduction in wear
My fuel dilution at 7703 miles running Rotella T6 with auto regen off, only letting it regen when it could finish was just a trace. 2022 F450. Oh and I'm in Southeast Missouri. Turn auto regen off, only regen during highway trips and you'll get rid of that fuel dilution.
I will give that a try! Thank you very much for this suggestion. How did you figure this out?
The magnet is your "filter".
I live in Missouri with 10% bio and my question is I always run a quart or 2 of MMO in my oil and run that for 100-200 miles before I change my oil to help keep my 05. 5.9 cummins and it says on the bottle of MMO that not to run this in your newer diesels that use DPF because MMO has too much sulfur in it so that would be a good thing to increase the sulfur and more than likely not enough sulfur to mater .
Yeah it's not a good idea to run any sort of oil additives. I've made that mistake and they're just not worth it if you're buying good oil
What would you recommend for when to change oil for a guy who doesn’t tow heavy often and daily drives it? I’ve been trying to do mine every 8,000km what would you recommend. Always running additives and ams oil as well.
@@Jonathan-sk3fu Idle hours, stop and go driving, short trips, etc.. Get your oil sample tested, and create a baseline. I stick to 5k miles for any vehicle.
Yes be sure to get it tested for a baseline
@ what’s it cost roughly?
@@Jonathan-sk3fu About $30'ish for base sample, and $40'ish to determine intervals. My sample with top tier detergent fuel, and Pennzoil U.P. oil was top 10% for wear @ 107k miles. They wanted me to go longer than 5k intervals, but I'm not looking to maximize oil lifespan, over engine wear.
Maybe I missed it, but did he change the oil at 11k, or was 11k the latest test interval, and if so…will he continue to run that oil until the testing dictates a change?
I changed the oil after 11k and took this sample at that time
Majority of pump diesel fuel has additives, with most containing Power Service. LSD and prior did not contain much, but ULSD is loaded down, especially in the winter months to prevent gelling
Sold amsoil some years ago. Loved the products but hearing about internal varnish issues on the long interval drains. Anyone else hearing or seeing that?
Haven’t heard it mentioned yet in the video, but can you document what the oil life reminder % level stated in the dash for each interval? Wondering how close it was vs the analysis.
Yes that’s a good idea! This one it was well passed zero lol so I reset it so it would quit bothering me
Great content and super interesting but for the average person, it would probably be less expensive and less wear on the engine buying a more readily available cheaper oil from Walmart (like t6, delo, etc) and changing it every 6 or 7k miles.
Fair enough!
So I'm an auto/diesel tech in the military. They sent us to a Ford 6.7 power stroke class that was held by ford. And the engineers told us the 6.7 was designed to run on a specific diesel fuel (specific cetane rating) and they said that such fuel doesn't even exist in America.... Is this true?
I’d seriously question if that’s true… I know Ford makes some pretty ignorant engineering choices at times, but why would they design the engine to run on a specific cetane rated fuel that isn’t even available where the indented use for the engine is? Just doesn’t make sense.
@@chevyon37s Ford operates siloed Rube Goldberg engineering. They have little to no information of how their engineering package are to interact with any other engineering packages. There is another team responsible for assembling the packages together. As for training issued to the US government. They send a clown that can follow a syllabus. It is a check mark on a contract.
They are talking about the cp4 that was designed around euro diesel. It has a higher cetane rating, better quality, more additives. They say that the reason Americans have so many issues with the cp4 is most of our diesel is 40 cetane with no additives.
@@BJ-vd3rp I know what they were talking about lol the CP4 on a 6.7 for diesel lol .. hence my question.
Looks like you partially read my question without fully understanding what I was asking...
I had Ford engineers who created this 6.7 tell the entire class the fuel this engine was designed on that fuel dosn't exist in the US..
Jw if that was actually true or not.
CP4 pumps diesel fuel. Hence my question lol....guess I had to fully explain my entire question because you got confused.
@@mattdagger1480
The question being is it true that the 6.7 was designed to run on a specific cetane rating of diesel fuel that is unavailable in the US.
Yes that is true. Not all diesel fuel is the same.
European diesel is generally considered higher quality than American diesel due to higher lubricity and cetane ratings. European standards require a cetane rating of 51, while the U.S. requires a minimum of 40.
European diesel contains fewer contaminants and is refined to a higher standard, contributing to better engine performance and longevity.
The ford engineers are telling the truth. The answer is euro diesel is different than American diesel. It runs cleaner and lubricates better. You can not find that quality of fuel in America thus the fuel the engine was designed around is not available in the US.
Europe has stricter emissions standards for diesel vehicles, such as the Euro 6 standard, which limits NOx emissions more stringently than U.S. regulations
One of the ways they have achieved there stricter Euro standards is through better diesel quality with the 51 cetane rating.
The 6.7 was made based off the better euro fuel partially because they chose the European designed Bosch Cp4 that has a high failure rate when used with American diesel due partially to the fact that the lower cam is lubricated by diesel. That is where it normally fails due to the lower lubricity and dirtier fuel of the US.
I'm interested in operating RPM vs soot. I see almost nothing out there regarding RPM. My gut feeling is powerstrokes like 2000-2500 rpm, and from my 18 wheeler days, I didn't lug the engine when empty. I use the engine brake and downshift to keep my RPM's in the range and I get 460 mile regens.
Also, from a money standpoint and the fact that Texas diesel is up to 20% biodiesel, I'm using Motorcraft oil and changing at 5000 miles. Thoughts?
No correlation. As for 5k changes. Samples are required otherwise it is a guess at best.
So there is much more soot at idle and not so much at operating rpm IMHO as this is a know. If you are correct, then lugging the engine should be best as there are fewer rotations.
Do you recommend being in the biggest gear possible to get better economy, less wear, and soot just happens? It's not my experience but am I wrong?
Yes you should be sure to run a test on your oil to be sure. And I try to avoid lugging the engine when towing. Empty I let it do it's thing. Typically would downshift to 5th gear with a trailer to get it to 2000 RPMs. I found it to be a better towing experience and it also keeps the EGTs down. No improvement in DPF regen frequency when doing this with bio diesel though
Premium Diesel here in the US is best not to be treated because it is already treated with the best additive package available for the region and weather.
How about Heavy diesel trucks? I drive a Tractor Trailer (KW t680 with paccar mx13 engine) We do oil changes every 60k. We run Chevron DELO synthetic blend 10w30. At first I thought it was crazy however we've been doing it for many years with no engine failures as of yet. We keep our trucks up until around 650k then sell them off and replace them. So it seems in a small pickup diesel engine the same oil should at least last equally as long?
Big industrial diesel engines are built way differently, they aren't delicate like light duty stuff. And big rigs typically have a pretty serious multi-filter setup to keep the oil cleaner for longer. The MX13 has two oil filters for example.
@@braaap6292 yes I realize all of this however lake stated that fuel and moisture are extremely hard on the oil...you can have 10 filters and they won't remove the fuel from the oil.
@braaap6292 I drive truck as well...those engines may be built way differently but they also get worked pretty hard depending on what they are pulling.
Question for Lake: Based on these numbers and the trends that are shown, what would you project for the mileage interval he needs to change this oil at?
12k. This testing was done on oil that was being changed
Is it better to buy diesel at a truck stop over a regular station thanks
@@jonsmith398 generally yes. But a regular fueling station that has clean storage tanks and regular product turn over is fine. It’s usually smaller mom n’ pop out of the way stations with poor fuel storage practices that can have questionable fuel.
My dad had a duramax from 2001-2015. And for the first 5 years or so he’d always fuel up at the same station if he was in town. Like clock work every 15-20k miles he’d have to change the fuel filter or it would be so plugged the truck would go into limp mode… usually while pulling a trailer. At 99k miles he had the injectors replaced (very common on the first generation LB7 duramaxes) and the tech noted while its a common problem with them the fuel filter was full of rust particles. After that he questioned where he was getting fuel, he quit filling up there and the truck stopped plugging filters and going into limp mode for the next 250k miles. And he’d go even longer between fuel filter changes. Long story short, just keep your fuel and water separator filters changed frequently and you don’t have to worry about it.
@@chevyon37s Have 30 some years. Not once have I ever had any fuel issues anywhere in the USA.
@@Failure_Is_An_Option You’re pretty lucky then. I’ve also gotten premium gasoline that was about 30% water from a station while filling up my Harley before. Ran horrible all the way home, and it ended up ruining the fuel pump.
Yeah no fuel issues ever is really winning the law of large numbers
@powerstrokemaintenance thank you
I didn’t know a power stroke would even last 11000 miles
😂💀
My 7.3 gets its 14 quarts and pint of HotShot Secret every 5000 miles. 413,000 miles. No blow by. No major engine repairs. Couple of power steering/ brake booster hoses. Transmission rebuilt and torque converter beefed up at 210,000. Always a 7.3 weak spot. Alternator.
A/C clutch. High pressure fuel lines $300 for all 3. Can’t complain. 2002 4WD Lariat been paid for since 2006. I can’t justify $100k for a new 6.7 when my maintenance and pesky repairs are less than one or two payments on new one. Cummins /Duramax are trash. 6.7 has its own problems just not as bad.
Change that oil. It’s cheap. Screw the green know it alls.
You are saying that Lake Speed Jr is a green know it all?
So you equate efficiencies with green, and green with negative. What a sad life. Remember your lack of understanding does not change the complexities of the world around you.
Ever since I stupidly replaced my cast iron power steering pump with the pop metal replacement I go through a pump every 50k miles. I should have rebuilt the original one.
@@NoName-tz5ji ive never had a power steering failure, how tf do you get kne every 50k? 😂 are you rally racing?!
I don't know why everybody makes such a big deal about how many miles you can go before you get your oil change
I have a 24 Peterbilt with a Cummins 15 liter 500 horsepower my next oil change is coming up the recommended service interval is 65,000 mi I'm currently at 175,000 and this will be the third oil change
A heavy duty diesel engine in a semi truck also has nearly 3 times the oil capacity of the light duty diesel engines found in pickup trucks. The increased oil capacity has just that… more capacity to carry dirty particles and more additives and oil to be used before break down. But yes, many people are taking out perfectly good oil for new oil too soon.
Wow, I really enjoy the interaction between you and Lake in this series of videos! Do you use Amsoil's 100% Synthetic Gear Lube for your differentials and Amsoil's 100% Synthetic ATF for your transmission?
Thank you for the comment. Glad it’s helpful! I do use Amsoil’s gear oil for both differentials and their ATF for my transmission. Their ATF fluid lowered my trans temps by 10 degrees over the Mercon LV from ford
@@powerstrokemaintenanceuse the ATF in my fleet. It's fabulous
@secretsquirrel9722 we can't tell you how far to go. Thats like telling you how to spend your money. I can tell you to get an analysis done. To see what is going on. It tells the story of whether or not that oil is good and can still be used and doing it's job or is getting used up. Everyone's mileage is different. Depends on where you live, how you drive, etc etc etc
The problem with extended oil changes is they don't account for the guy that has hours of idle time
What?
@@powerstrokemaintenance What?
I wanted to like ams oil, but when I threw it in my pos chevy it all leaked out 😂 obviously it's good oil just bummed it leaked out.
So fix your oil leaks??
I’ve been running AMSOIL in my Chevy for 80,000+ miles and it doesn’t leak out… and I actually have AMSOIL fluids in every place fluid is needed except for the brake fluid and coolant.
from research I read, adding up to 3% kerosine to diesel fuel raise the cetane by 10 points. might be a cheaper method than the addictives
It’s dryer. Wears pump faster
@@Craig-o9v its up to 3% should not make any difference for the pump.
What sources did you use for this information?
@@powerstrokemaintenance I found it on google scholar. there is good research in the area. Sadly I dont remember the source of the research. also Duel fuel Diesel engines are interesting thing to consider for lower fuel costs.
Oh nah
I don’t care how great they say it is or even what any tests show, I wouldn’t come anywhere near close that mileage. You’re flirtin with disaster in my book, but that’s just my opinion.
What makes you say that?
I just don't understand the obsession with extending oil intervals.
Because throwing away good oil is a waste of time and money.
@@OtisFlintCan afford a 100k truck but not the oil? 11k is asking for trouble.
@@HSKFabrications how the video it literally proof…
@dkh100 So what happens when an issue arises at 3k miles, you wouldn't know about it until 8k miles later. Unless you sample every thousand. Samples aren't free. By 11k you would have paid for the oil in the cost of samples.
@@dkh100 Which oil test parameter indicates how much coked sludge is in the oil control rings? I'm genuinely curious.