BEAUTIFUL! One tip, when using grey stain consider using water-based polyurethane to avoid the ambering effects of oil based. Which can turn your gray color slightly purple.
Definitely congratulations for your amazing job, I would like make the same but for my garage in Portugal with 4 doors and unlevel entrance. But isn't easy. Thanks very much for you help
One of the best door videos I’ve seen! It’s been 5 years since you posted this video, how are the doors holding up? Since the tongue and groove boards are all screwed in place, I was wondering if the boards did any splitting, due to weather/temperature/humidity?
@@Heyjaybird don't know if they are rattle snake proof!!.. don't have many I know of here in Western Washington...I think I'll keep out my main pests..(squirrels..rats.. possums.. raccoons..etc.)
I use a Dremel (instead of a router or sander) to take the sharp corner off. The free hand makes it look more authentically rustic and distressed. I also give it a few deliberate deep and random gouges for extra design. I take a wire wheel (on my drill) to flake up the soft wood in between the grain. Then I torch it. Then a quick wire brush by hand to remove in between the grain. I then wipe down with a sponge and water. Next I stain and/or urethane, depending on desired coloring
Love these doors , I want to do barn doors for my laundry room to cover front of my machines as they are set in a closet. Need bypass doors . Any suggestions???
Doors look great, only thing I’d change is making the decision of the 2x6 you added with the frame, then adding the unnecessary headboard... it’s one or the other
Hi, I'm planning of making a barn door for the very first time. It's going between my master bedroom and master bath. Opening is 48 inches wide. I would like to paint my door white, rustic looking. Im not too sure the type of paint i should get. I really like the way you put your door together. I'm thinking if getting the same panels with the grooves. Im wondering how the back looks like though. Thanks.
It's easy... measure corner to corner and cut the length of the cross member. Then mark the center of the cross member (lengthwise). Next, lay the cross member (center mark) over the corners and just eyeball and mark the angles. Connect the lines and cut. It's really simple!
For the Barn Door Hardware kit you linked out shows on their description that Fit Door Thickness: 1-3/8" ~ 1-3/4"(35mm-45mm). How thick are your doors? I see you framed both sides with the X Pattern. That would be 2 1/4" in total door thickness. How did you get around that?
@@PictureTime Very cool Thanks for sharing that. Did you show that part in the video somewhere and I missed it? You had a lot of great ideas and technics so thanks for sharing
Once everything has been milled to size, I'd recommend sanding before final construction...makes it easier to take care of the angles. Nice looking doors.
Blair Willcocks We bought the hardware on amazon. We had to counter sink the nuts on the back side of the door to make it all fit and have the nuts not protrude out so they would scratch the wall.
I noticed the hardware says maximum door thickness is 1 3/4" but your door is just over 2 inches, correct?. Did you not have any problems? I like the look of sandwiching the tongue and groove as you did but cant find hardware that mentions door thickness of 2 inches or more.
We made a larger hole on the back side of the doors to recess the hardware/bolts which also prevents hardware from rubbing against your wall. You’ll need to use spacers (washers) on your rail to move it out from the wall a bit further as well. Hope that helps.
I have the same door thickness issue as you had. What size lag bolts did you buy and how much further did you have to extend the spacers from the wall using washers?
Wimmer Mendicoa hello. Thanks for watching! I used a Minwax stain on the sanded wood surface and then I used 2 coats of satin Polyurethane varnish and sanded in between. I hope that helps.
Jon Marquez no but we needed to space the top rail out far enough from the wall. We added some washers and longer bolts when mounting the top rail and are clear of the baseboards.
We tapered the edges of the middle boards (the ones you can see) but don’t think we did the outside ones (or at least we left a hard edge on the outside ones) as you are correct, they are trimmed. Thanks for watching!
@@PictureTime Yes I would like to do mine double sided as well! always thought it would look strange if the back side wasn't "finished". Would just look like a wood wall from the inside haha. So all in all the door will be 2.25" thick right? And can I ask where you got that tongue and groove material? eveything I can find at hardware stores has a notch/spine cut out on the back side. Like this for example: www.homedepot.ca/product/irving-1x6x10-tongue-and-groove-pine/1000441101 I think that would look strange from the inside
HD that’s the same material we got! We got it from Home Depot. Menards or Lowe’s should have something like that too. I think it’s just under 3/4” thick so three of them would make the door under 2.5”
Look closer at the boards. One side was square and one was router’d. We wanted both sides to look the same. But if you buy wood that has both sides looking the same, you could skip this step. Thanks for watching!
Hello I'd like to know if you're close to NYC. Love for you to make us 4 pocket doors in the style of a Barn Door. Hoping you're close :) Thank you. Joe Ps- If anyone knows of a talented woodworker who may be able to help please contact us.
Dustin Snay we did have to drill recess holes on the back of the doors for the mounting hardware. Basically a 1 inch hole through the framing board. Once you drill through it, it pops out and then your just mounting the brackets through 2 layers of material instead of 3. Hope that helps.
There are many components to creating an amazing design. One plan I found which succeeds in merging these is the Adota blueprint pack (check it out on google) without a doubt the most incredible info i've seen. Check out this extraordinary site.
Great doors. I'm looking at making one in front of our flex room. Thanks for taking the time and sharing.
Nice video. One bit of advice, drywall screws aren't meant for anything other than drywall. I would just upgrade a tiny bit and use better screws.
after watching many barn door videos yours is the best by far. You explained the instructions on how to build very well. Thank you!
BEAUTIFUL! One tip, when using grey stain consider using water-based polyurethane to avoid the ambering effects of oil based. Which can turn your gray color slightly purple.
BRILLIANT !!!!!!!!
Simple and Visually Pleasing to the EYE
That is what i.m Going to Use X- Pater Like the UNION JACK for my Doors of my DIY SHED
Definitely congratulations for your amazing job, I would like make the same but for my garage in Portugal with 4 doors and unlevel entrance. But isn't easy. Thanks very much for you help
I'm building these! Exactly what we want
Awesome! Let us know how it goes!
Fantastic video!
I just saved a fistful of cash by watching this video..will build my barn doors thank you.
Really good informative video, thanks
One of the best door videos I’ve seen!
It’s been 5 years since you posted this video, how are the doors holding up? Since the tongue and groove boards are all screwed in place, I was wondering if the boards did any splitting, due to weather/temperature/humidity?
They are holding up great. My office is behind them now and I use them every day. We still get many compliments on them!
Those doors turned out awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Yep..great looking doors. I building these for my new 196 sq foot shed. Nice job!
Ya have video of em I would live to see how ya did yours. Are they rattle snake proof?
@@Heyjaybird don't know if they are rattle snake proof!!.. don't have many I know of here in Western Washington...I think I'll keep out my main pests..(squirrels..rats.. possums.. raccoons..etc.)
I use a Dremel (instead of a router or sander) to take the sharp corner off. The free hand makes it look more authentically rustic and distressed. I also give it a few deliberate deep and random gouges for extra design.
I take a wire wheel (on my drill) to flake up the soft wood in between the grain. Then I torch it. Then a quick wire brush by hand to remove in between the grain. I then wipe down with a sponge and water. Next I stain and/or urethane, depending on desired coloring
Would love to see a photo!
Great job on everything. You explain very well. Gave me a great plan
Is it possible to make a sliding set of barn doors with galvanized wavy metal finished out with wood trim?
You did a beautiful job for $300 for both. Most places I looked at ask $700 per door for barn doors.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much telling us to buy this.
What was the thickness of the door frame? The hardware I'm seeing says it needs to be 1.5-1.75" thixk
Love these doors , I want to do barn doors for my laundry room to cover front of my machines as they are set in a closet. Need bypass doors . Any suggestions???
Can you share which stain you used for the double door you already had finished in the video? Thanks!
I’m pretty sure it was Minwax Jacobean.
Under $5 has to be pre-covid. Nice job
Yep. Pre-Covid. What do they cost now?
I just did two doors. Cost 300 in wood, glue, and stain
Can you share who you purchased the custom fit piece of steel from? I have a doorway that is in need of a 10’8” bar for my doors.
Siren Steel. In Siren Wisconsin.
reallg nice
nice video thanks for posting this stuff ..ill be avoiding dernominational lumber as to have a ruff cut finish
Doors look great, only thing I’d change is making the decision of the 2x6 you added with the frame, then adding the unnecessary headboard... it’s one or the other
Hi, I'm planning of making a barn door for the very first time. It's going between my master bedroom and master bath. Opening is 48 inches wide. I would like to paint my door white, rustic looking. Im not too sure the type of paint i should get.
I really like the way you put your door together. I'm thinking if getting the same panels with the grooves. Im wondering how the back looks like though.
Thanks.
Try some chalk paint and wax over it. They sell it at Home Depot and most home improvement stores. It’s very easy to work with and looks really neat.
@@PictureTime Thanks ill try that
Thanks for explaining how you did the cross pieces. I was about to attempt some Trig and figure out the angle haha
It's easy... measure corner to corner and cut the length of the cross member. Then mark the center of the cross member (lengthwise). Next, lay the cross member (center mark) over the corners and just eyeball and mark the angles. Connect the lines and cut. It's really simple!
Looks great! How much bigger do you build the doors as opposed to the opening (height and width)?
We made the doors so they would overlap the door opening by 2-3 inches on each side.
@@PictureTime thanks!
For the Barn Door Hardware kit you linked out shows on their description that Fit Door Thickness: 1-3/8" ~ 1-3/4"(35mm-45mm). How thick are your doors? I see you framed both sides with the X Pattern. That would be 2 1/4" in total door thickness. How did you get around that?
We drilled out 1” recessed holes on the back side of the door to recess the hardware. Thanks for watching.
@@PictureTime Very cool Thanks for sharing that. Did you show that part in the video somewhere and I missed it? You had a lot of great ideas and technics so thanks for sharing
Any ideas on making odd size doors to fit closet 56x 6ft? Wanted barn doors
Thanks for your video.
Once everything has been milled to size, I'd recommend sanding before final construction...makes it easier to take care of the angles. Nice looking doors.
Photog 1 great suggestion! Thanks for watching
I noticed the hardware you used is for a 1 3/4” door. Did you make your own track spacers to accommodate a 2 1/4” door?
Yes. We added washers to the track spacers and painted them to match.
@@PictureTime do you have a link or picture for the ones you used? Thank you
Where did you find barn door hardware that accommodated for a 2 1/4 inch thick door. The largest size I found was 1 3/4 inch.
Blair Willcocks We bought the hardware on amazon. We had to counter sink the nuts on the back side of the door to make it all fit and have the nuts not protrude out so they would scratch the wall.
Those "square drive" screws are the worst. "Torx" head are the way to go.
The doors look great.
I love my square shank Kreg screws.
@@billabney243 ....I'm talking about the square bit driven ones.
I noticed the hardware says maximum door thickness is 1 3/4" but your door is just over 2 inches, correct?. Did you not have any problems? I like the look of sandwiching the tongue and groove as you did but cant find hardware that mentions door thickness of 2 inches or more.
We made a larger hole on the back side of the doors to recess the hardware/bolts which also prevents hardware from rubbing against your wall. You’ll need to use spacers (washers) on your rail to move it out from the wall a bit further as well. Hope that helps.
@@PictureTime ah, that makes sense. Thanks.
I have the same door thickness issue as you had. What size lag bolts did you buy and how much further did you have to extend the spacers from the wall using washers?
Hey at 5:50 you show your door. Did you put the molding for the frame on the side with the doors or only in the middle and front?
We did the same molding on both sides of our doors. It makes for a thicker door but we like the look!
Hi, which are the steps for "painting" de door and gives that amazing look? thank you
Wimmer Mendicoa hello. Thanks for watching! I used a Minwax stain on the sanded wood surface and then I used 2 coats of satin Polyurethane varnish and sanded in between. I hope that helps.
@@PictureTime thank, helps a lot
Try burning it. Go light.
nice
This looks really hard
Did you have issues clearing baseboard?
Jon Marquez no but we needed to space the top rail out far enough from the wall. We added some washers and longer bolts when mounting the top rail and are clear of the baseboards.
I don't get why you taper off at 4:10. You eventually square off the sides and trim it out
We tapered the edges of the middle boards (the ones you can see) but don’t think we did the outside ones (or at least we left a hard edge on the outside ones) as you are correct, they are trimmed. Thanks for watching!
Do you find that the door is too thick being 3 layers?
We had to made some adjustment to the hardware, but I like a big thick heavy door. We get lots of compliments on them!
@@PictureTime Yes I would like to do mine double sided as well! always thought it would look strange if the back side wasn't "finished". Would just look like a wood wall from the inside haha. So all in all the door will be 2.25" thick right?
And can I ask where you got that tongue and groove material? eveything I can find at hardware stores has a notch/spine cut out on the back side. Like this for example: www.homedepot.ca/product/irving-1x6x10-tongue-and-groove-pine/1000441101
I think that would look strange from the inside
HD that’s the same material we got! We got it from Home Depot. Menards or Lowe’s should have something like that too. I think it’s just under 3/4” thick so three of them would make the door under 2.5”
@@PictureTime Oh really? I didn't see that spine/notch cut of the back side of your wood
Do you have a video or a picture of the L bracket in the channel? Did you install a piece of wood to the ground for it to slide on?
I have the same question 😊
Also curious how the steel bar stayed in place it’s a great idea
Why did you router the one side off?
Look closer at the boards. One side was square and one was router’d. We wanted both sides to look the same. But if you buy wood that has both sides looking the same, you could skip this step. Thanks for watching!
How do these look a year later?
Its ridiculous how much people charge for these doors so i made my own under $300 👍🏻
And I’ll bet the ones you made are nicer than the ones you can buy for double what you paid!
Hello
I'd like to know if you're close to NYC.
Love for you to make us 4 pocket doors in the style of a Barn Door.
Hoping you're close :)
Thank you.
Joe
Ps- If anyone knows of a talented woodworker who may be able to help please contact us.
Hi Joe. Sorry… we’re in Minnesota! You can build them yourself!! :-)
@@PictureTime I would try but I am disabled.. my reason for a good woodworker :)
What was the final thickness of your doors?
Hi Dustin. The boards end up being about .75" thick so the total thickness of the door a the outer frame is about 2.25". Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the reply...did the thickness of the door create any problems with mounting hardware
Dustin Snay we did have to drill recess holes on the back of the doors for the mounting hardware. Basically a 1 inch hole through the framing board. Once you drill through it, it pops out and then your just mounting the brackets through 2 layers of material instead of 3. Hope that helps.
Is it too noisy?
Anas Hamed - No, they roll really quietly and smoothly.
That classic gray stain doesn't do good for me. It goes on looking muddy
I don’t think we used classic grey but Jacobean or Espresso.
im from UK and like the UK flag kinda shape, wonder if i can actually make mine with our flag? hmmmm.
There are many components to creating an amazing design. One plan I found which succeeds in merging these is the Adota blueprint pack (check it out on google) without a doubt the most incredible info i've seen. Check out this extraordinary site.
Woodprix Blueprints has some very useful blueprints with all the details you need.
I did the same with Stodoys plans :)
Woodprix plans are amazing!