I have a '10 RAM 1500 with 211000 miles on a 5.7 and it posted a code for cyl 3 misfire and started to tick. I figured it was a lifter failure and pulled the heads and found one of the lifters had seized the roller. I noted that it appeared to be into the cam some as the sides were also slightly worn. After pulling the cam it is worn significantly, seems like it had been doing it for longer than I thought. My plan was to just replace the cam and lifters, but now I am wondering if I may have a contamination issue and should do more. I have photos of the affected lifter and cam lobe that I could show that may help the decision. I have pulled the cam phaser to check the screens, they are clear. I am wondering what your thoughts would be on this situation and what you might recommend. I don't want to be pushy, but I am in somewhat of a time crunch and a quick response would be greatly appreciated. I understand if you can not however. Thanks
@@waltergrasmick5615 if the oil control valve screen is clear as you mentioned I'm totally fine with just replacing the cam/lifters. Might make sense to do a quick oil change about 500 miles after the repair just to be thorough, but that's my opinion. 👍
Thanks for the quick reply. I will go ahead and proceed with the cam and lifters only. I had just changed the oil about 800 miles before the fault, but will be changing it now for sure. And I will take your advice to change it again after 4 to 5 hundred. Again, thank you for the great content you have and for the quick response.
After you replaced the cam and lifters. What are the chances it's going to happen again since nothing has changed. Are the new cams and lifters now better ?
ive been dealing with this hemi tick for over a year and a fresh rebuild of the entire rotating assembly. you're a lifesaver for pioneering the search for the fix of the tick. im going to try your hellcat oil pump next and i am PRAYING it works. will update here for anyone is interested
That is the reason .. Scotty has discussed this issue several times .. They moved the lifters higher up in the engine out of the oil.. Thus at lower rpm's there is inadequate lubrication
I watched a video done by a very experienced dodge mechanic and he figured that by raising the camshaft like they did in this engine not enough oil is getting to the lifters and cam. More oil changes may help but I say it's a design flaw that it should need such special care. Other engines survive.
Lots of speculation that is why this is happening. I'm not against it, as I'm only a mechanic and not an engineer, but I haven't seen conclusive evidence yet verifying it. But neither have I seen anything conclusively ruling it out. I'd love to see a company do some in depth testing on it 👍
There is truth to this statement, however, this issue is happening to such a low percentage of overall vehicles that if this were truly a design flaw it would be happening to a much higher percentage of Hemi engines.
@@TM-to3jc This guy on this channel that runs the show here is just trying to kiss Chrysler’s ass. There’s no way it’s the fault of the oil manufacturers. The engine oil cannot get to the lifters and the needle bearings and the roller causing it to get loose causing compounding damage to the cam. The cam shaft is not getting the oil it should either. The roller on the lifter is not properly lubricated and wearing on the camshaft and the needle bearings are causing the roller to fail causing even more wear on the camshaft.
SOLID!!! THANK YOU!!! BEST description I HAVE SEEN!!!!!! I started adding Lucas Syn oil additive for one quart and switched to WIX filters. I also change my oil every 8 mo or 4k miles... I do not have a lot of idle time during this time. Only use Mobil one Full syn.
Careful with Lucas, it’s very thick; I blew my 2008 Charger engine right after using this. I have a 2012 now and will never use it again. I’m not the only one saying this. I think Lucas is meant to thicken up the oil and fill in the spaces of a heavily worn engine. That would not help in this situation. AND, it could actually decrease oil flow and increase sludge in some engines. Research it before you put it in your (newer) 2014. Can I say for SURE it was the Lucas? No. But it was very suspicious. I theorize, INCREASING the film strength and INCREASING the oil pressure will help our engines for this specific problem. I have switched to 10w30, for this reason. No CEL codes thrown when using it, also.
Nice video. I have seen similar tear down analysis on other videos discussing this problem. I would disagree with the statement that this is not a design problem. An engine should be designed to operate reliably under the range of operating conditions it will be subjected to. It is not unreasonable to expect an engine installed in police and commercial vehicles to spend a lot of time idling. The engine design should be tolerant of that operating pattern.
That's a fair point, but I do think there is validity to the argument that if you are only changing the oil based on mileage, as fleet companies tend to do, that the oil is being tasked far beyond it's intended life cycle. I do agree that there are always design improvments that can be made retroactively to repair issues like this, however, I believe Chrysler is willing to take their lumps for the relatively small percentage of overall failures they are seeing.
I changed the oil in my 2010 Ram 1500 every 3000 miles, with the exception of a 3-4 times I was around 4000 miles and this failure happened to me at 118k miles. I typically used castrol 5w-20 conventional oil. This is a daily driver and no long idle times like fleet or police vehicles.
Conventional? Eeek. I change mine in my 06 Daytona Charger every 3k miles ish (5-6k kms) with just cheapo pennzoil castrol ect engine oil that's on sale, use a OEM Mopar Oil filter (i somehow get them straight from the dealer for likr 5 6 dollars...not sure why) And no problems as of 130k ish miles, driven hard.
I change my oil every 10,000 miles with pennz oil synthetic oil ,& never idle my truck more than 2 minutes ,& iv got 200,000 miles on my truck ,never had an issue, not once
I had no issues with my 392 but i put Schaeffer Oil in it from the beginning - Run Schaeffer Oil and you won't have any problems. The best oil on the planet
Caterpillar in the past used the same type of lifter on the 3400 series engines, I I at the time now around 30 years ago rebuilt many many of these. Some of these lifters would fail in very few engines and the cause of failure was always oil related either wrong oil or not frequent enough oil changes so I think you are spot on to it, thanks for the vid.
The breaking down of the oil might be part of the cause but I know one of the main causes is the design of the engine block where that tube flows through the lifter valley and keeps oil from dripping down through the galleys where it's supposed to go
I must say, this saved me around $1600 if I decided to fix it or god knows how much if I sold my car. My car is a 2008 5.7 charger R/T with 175K miles 1st owner. When I heard the tik I thought that's it this car is done. I even checked the issue and they said it is the lifters! Parked it for two weeks until I get my sh** together only to see this video that gave me hope. I checked the car with two dodge mechanics and an exhaust shop and found the leak in right hand side headers and now I'm happy! Thank you so much Mr. Reignited❤️
You're PARTIALLY correct in your explanation of it being a lack of sufficient lubrication issue, but it's not actually exactly as you described it. It's because at idle these roller needle bearings are not being supplied with ENOUGH oil to properly lubricate them. These engines supply oil to the lifter bearings by means of splash coating. At idle, not enough oil is being splashed onto them to provide sufficient lubrication. Tony from "Uncle Tonys Garage" explains it wonderfully. Give it a watch and see if you agree or disagree with his explanation. I love your channel, it's VERY informative. Keep up the good work!
This video is quite old now, I've got a bunch of newer videos showing my solutions with actual results. As to UTG, no I don't agree with that being the issue. Engines aren't built exactly like they were in the 60's. I have another video that shows the exact path of oil through the Hemi engine, and "splash" lubrication is not the only oil the camshaft receives. 👍
great video, my daily driver is a 2010 Ram with the 5.7 Hemi, it's got 181,000 miles and no lifter tick. Runs and drives great with no issues. I run high quality synthetic with good filters and try hard not to let me try truck idle for very long. Take care of it and it'll last!
The non mds variants eat lifters too. I work alongside a fleet of late model 3/4 and 1 ton trucks... oldest being 2017. These things idle as you say and I can't speak for what their service intervals are. All of these trucks I see are 5.7s so they are non mds and the lifters still fall apart. I tend to agree with the lifters running too close to horizontal and simply not oiling the rollers at idle speeds. The oil change interval seems more of a cop out for a blatant design flaw.
This oil business is so true , I drive a fleet truck and at times my truck has to idle for many hours and after 7yrs the cam was worn out creating lots of noise so the engine had to be replaced, this was on a 2014 3/4 ton chevy work truck.
I change my oil every 3-4K using Mobil1 syn in my Ram with 63k, now the tick, not exhaust and not diluted oil. Call ERS, engine rebuilder supply in Troutdale Oregon, they told me every hemi they have gotten in has had bad cam/lifters.
Everyone always asks me to tell them which cars i see the most problems on, and I have to tell them, I only see the broken ones, that doesn't take into account the millions of them still on the road operating correctly. I would probably imagine than an engine rebuilding company would see issues with cam and lifters, otherwise it probably wouldn't have come to their company in the first place. All that being said, are you from Oregon? I miss it, we just moved a little over a year ago from bend. I've spent a lot of time near Troutdale though, since my brother in law lives in hood river. Beautiful area!
@@ReignitedAuto live in Gresham Oregon right next to troutdale my 2017 hemi ram ticks right after I changed the oil for a few days on startup then goes away until next oil change afterwards then no more ticking is that a problem it only has 19,000 miles on it I changed the oil at 3500 MI no Long idle at all. Using 5-20 Pennzoil oil full synthetic. Would like your thought on that. PS run truck with MDS off all the time.
@@joefurrer5428 I wouldn't see that as an issue at all. Normally the lifter tick noise is far more prominent after the engine is fully warmed up, and at 19k miles you should be golden 👍. Drove through Gresham many times on my way to Portland, can't take the rain though!
@@ReignitedAuto thanks for the reply yes it does rain here move from Portland to Gresham get away from big City big city is making it to Gresham and troutdale in Fairview do not like. Lived here all my life used to the rain but we get a lot of wind out in this area from the gorge.
I watched uncle tonys garage a while back. He explained what he figured the flaw was and why. You should really watch it. It makes perfect sense. And it’s kind of the same as what you are explaining.
Same thing my mechanic buddy told me when I bought my Ram 1500 in November. Change your oil every 5k or sooner. Do it religiously and you should be fine. I love my Ram with the 5.7 Hemi. I’m almost at 3 I so I’ll be scheduling one by the time I hit 4K.
Simple explanation of failures, simple solution. I always change my oil every 5,000 miles. Also glad my 14' Charger Hemi is only used domestically. Not for fleet vehicle use.
One Chrysler tech I know, said to make sure you run synthetic oil and change it in half the time the factory time frame states... Oil maintenance is absolutely critical. A LOT of people think that since oil change intervals are longer than in older vehicles, people get complacent, and this simple service procedure is neglected. Can't do that. Of the failures he has seen, which actually are not many, ...THAT is the main cause of this problem.
I bought my 2006 Ram 1500 HEMI brand new and I have always changed the oil between 2,500-3,000 miles and now she has only 78k miles and purrs like a kitten. A few years back I did replace the 203 degrree thermostat with a 190.
My 2010 Ram lifters failed at 130k in 2018. I drive 50 miles a day, 80% highway. I used Amsoil and changed the oil at 6k, and I did every oil change. So, I really don’t believe lack of oil changes is all the cause. I was there when they took and heads off and it was spotless inside. You’d never have known it had 130k.
The real problem is lack of oil flow too the lifters,being a tech you should know that,the fact that fleet vech have more problems is because idle oil pressure and there is not enough getting too the lifters.
@@Pickleram I've heard this a fair bit, but haven't seen any actual data to back it up. I'd be legitimately interested in real results, if it can be Proven true I'll make an update video 👍
This video eased my mind. I have a 2011 Ram with 65,000 miles and change the oil every 3000 miles with synthetic oil. I look forward to many more years and miles.
I went from conventional oil, to synthetic blend, and my tick has stopped now. Next oil change is full synthetic! Wish I had listened to these younger guys sooner, instead of following my own old ways!
fully synthetic will not fix this or keep it from occurring. I've run Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic since I bought my challenger new. Only 46K miles and it's a manual trans with no mds. I've had lifter tick for 30L miles and dodge said it was normal or a small exhaust leak so I ignored it. Bad mistake. I now have to replace the lifters and cam due to wiped lobes and bad lifters. I know several others who have 5.7L engines who are experiencing misfires now and who have the lifter tick. I have over 1M miles of driving under my belt and I've never had a mechanical issue with any of my engines until the 5.7L. I'll be pulling the cam next weekend to see how bad things are.
Thanks. I am planning to buy a RAM with the 5.7. Based on everything I found it seems like a maintenance issue. You confirmed it. Seems like all modern engines are sensitive to oil quality. I think I am going to do a 5000-mile interval. In the old days we used to do 3000 miles. Thanks for the great video.
Great info and advice! One more factor - supplier quality, supplier changes, production changes... Sometimes can do everything perfect, best oil, frequent changes... and get burned by a random supplier quality issue. It's like peanut M&Ms... most are awesome, once a while you get a rotten sugar coated rotten peanut.
That is true, but if you look into it, Chevy is having a lot of problems with their DOD system as well, it's just not publicized as much. Thanks for watching! 👍
@@garysisk3431 Them ''older'' 5.4s yeah the rollers would start tap tap tappity, customer ignore it as ''manifold leak'' and then it grenades itself, no good. All engines got problems, dealer techs obviously get a first hand view of what goes wrong, but then again remember, cars don't come to the dealer/shop without problems or reason. If they come it's because of routine maintenance or they have problems. You get the broken ones.
I have an 09 5.7 hemi. Challenger. Being a toy. I only use her for long trips. It's never used for short trips. I use a good syn. So far so good. I give her a lil warm up time. Then super slab till I get where I'm going. Great vid sir. Thank you
Great video, but there’s plenty of documented lifter failures in these engines even when “proper” maintenance was done(3k oil changes, full synthetic etc). Bottom line is that there is a design flaw in these engines. Crown Vic police cars idle just as much as HEMI equipped vehicles and failures in the crown vic aren’t even close to that of the HEMI.
The Hemi is being pushed for power, like nearing 400hp to the engine 5.7l which let's be fair...older 350s (345 is the cubic of the 5.7) Are pushing? what 150 200 horse? Stock that is. They designed them different for more power and there are some flaws. Idle Oil pressure is like 20 Psi which i'm not super fond of, the MDS system surely isn't the best for it, there needs to be an aftermarket either the solenoids for MDS need to be block off, or just let them oil the lifters non stop (change to Non MDS style lifters) and give the rollers constant oiling with no 4 cyl mode. Basically, over engineering, need for emmisions garbage and mileage are the reason which things fail. 350s didn't get good milage, granted these Hemis are not that great either, but for the power they make it sure is ok. Crown vics were nice an reliable and they had what the 4.6s in them, they are ''simpler'' in their design lets say just because they're not all out for power.
I own a 2018 Ram 2500 with the 6.4 . Excellent power fora 6500 lb. truck.Change oil every 4,000 miles with recommended 0-40 Pennzoil synthetic. No funky noises. Gets 17 plus on highway. But, I remember I bought a '79 ford F150 with 80,000 miles for a work truck. The 1st owner abused it, but it ran perfect. I kept it for 26 years, until I sold it. Had close to 300,000 miles on it. No MDS, no computers , no BS. New Rams, Tin can Fords and Chi-com GM's all have problems. I'll take old tech anyday!
The old tech definitely has a rep for reliability and simplicity, but as far as efficiency goes it's a different story. I used to get so annoyed at the people who would come into my dealership complaining about the gas mileage of their new ram diesel, "I used to get 20mpg from my 12 valve, this thing barely gets 14!" Does your 12 valve have enough torque to pull the moon out of orbit? No? Well I wonder how your new truck is making all that power? Oh Yes, that's right from more fuel! 😂😂😂
I'm just an old school mechanic but I think he nailed. These new school muscle engines have tighter tolerances than my old school engines therefore they need better oils and more frequent oil changes. I don't know how many oil changes you could push out with old school engines before they grenade but it's not that they were better just built differently. Look at it this way back in the early days of NASCAR if you finished a race and your engine was still running strong you may change the oil, filter and re-gap the plugs before the next race. Now days they pull the engine and replace it. Then tear down that same engine that finished the race strong and check it for stress and wear of every part. That's the difference between then and now with new school engines
You Man Friend ARE A SAINT !!!! Wife's 5.7 has the infamous tick and mine is starting . Hers is very noticeable tick where mine is very light . Thank You for the Awesome video
@@ReignitedAuto You Are VERY WELCOME !!! Def explains what hey issues are and how to go about diagnosing ... I'll probably change oil first then go from there
It may have been mentioned already, Uncle Tony's garage figured out that the lifters are too high in the block, and they don't get oiled or splashed. Sorry if I'm repeating what you've already seen in the comments
Corvairs also suffer dropped valve seats. And this is late fifties technology, quality control with pretty bad in those days. I have taken apart a number of corvair engines. But there's no real damage except your off the side of the road, dead. Because of the horizontal layout of the engine, the dropped seat just rattles around. You could you can still drive it. And it happens to mostly the four carburetor, oversize valve high performance engine, 1965 to 69, but any Corvair engine can be susceptible. A trick is to turn the engine off in gear, thus lowering the idle speed, introducing less cold raw fuel into a hot combustion chamber
@@CORVAIRWILD I wish that were true with the Hemi! The older ones from '03-07 were bad about dropping valve seats. I've actually got a playlist of videos from a 2006 chrysler 300C where this happened. Unfortunately when it does, it shatters into about a million pieces of metal that get showered into the whole engine and destroy it :(
Im now installing my 2nd set of lifters and another cam, just 2.5 years after the first. I can tell you with certainty its both the lifter design and the cams not being heat treated correctly. One of the hydraulic type lifters had the valve opening go slightly sideways internally. It was stuck half open. BUT...the cam on one other lobe had PITTING that just started at the the top of the lobe, and strangely enough, zero damage to the lifter for it. Another lobe had linear lines across the top width wise. The first looked like the surface of the lobe had chipped off. The 2nd is possibly due to the needle bearings on the roller starting to fail but coincidentally, it was also at the top point of the lobe. That part of the cam is the smallest and therefore cools the fastest when tempering. I do not think they are compensating for it correctly. The cam was from the dealer and lifters I went after market with, not wanting to trust them from Dodge again. Really like this truck, but once this is done.....the truck is going up for sale, and Im not buying another Ram. Fact is they have the highest maintenance costs on the market for the first 10 years.
I have 3 Hemis with over 100k miles and two with over 200k miles on it. I always use this product call Engine Restore on all my oil change, it basically helps the oil to stick and stay on all metal moving parts. I also Rebuilt the hemi motors as well. It's good stuff, I use on my SRT and my two 5.7 hemi.👌
I have a lifter tick that happens because of the oil draining down when I park my truck on a hill. I have resolved this by holding the accelerater down when cranking until oil pressure comes up. I didnt know why the drain down was so bad until this video showed the orientation of the lifters in the block. This makes sense to me now. I hope that for the first 20,000 miles I haven't done any damage with the dry starts of this truck because of it being parked on the incline.
I believe when u use high viscosity engine oil u will not have most of these problems for example here in the middle east (95 to 122 F degrees) we use 15w40 and 20w50 and the cars last more than 200k miles but if u live in colder climate u can use 10w40 oil (v8 engines has more heat than smaller engines needs higher viscosity)
I know I'm opening my self up to be torn apart but, I have a '17 1500 Laramie with the 5.7. At this point I have no noises or problems at 67k miles. I change my oil at 5k miles at the dealer and the computer says I still have around 45% oil life yet. 2 questions, 1- is there a brand of oil that Chrysler recommends I use over another? 2- is it bad to use my remote start system and let the truck warn up for 10 min or so in the morning before I leave? I absolutely love this truck and want to do good by it.
No specific brand of oil, I know we had Penzoil at our dealer, but not sure if that was Chrysler recommended or just what we used. Just stick with the 5-20. I wouldn't worry about Idling it to warm it up in the mornings for two reasons, 1: when the engine is cold the oil is "thicker" and has more oil pressure, 2: I'm really talking about extended idle time like 1hr+ on a consistent basis. You should be good to go 👍
Yes, but there are ALOT OF BAD ONES, especially working at the dealerships! Never had my car so screwed up x3 after an “airbag recall.” (Moritz Dodge, Ft Worth). Horrible!!
My #5 exhaust lifter went bad and took out the cam pretty good. Then #2 was starting. I'm 2014 Ram 2500 5.7l, doesn't have mds. It's pretty crazy how many videos are out now. I replaced mine myself, not the worst but a big undertaking for someone that doesn't work on vehicles very often. Learn the steps and take your time and it's really not bad.
I appreciate the comment, I haven't heard much about the non MDS lifters failing, good to know. You are correct about it not being that bad of a job, the engine architecture is pretty straightforward on a Hemi so its not overly technical. Sounds like you're downplaying your technical ability though, good on you for doing it yourself! 👍
Here is a updated. It's been 3 years 42,000 miles and the engine sounds strong with no ticking or knocking sounds. I've only used Royal purple 5w30 oil at 4k to 5k intervals. It does idle for work but will idle it up if I'm sitting in it to bring oil pressure up. I'll check back in another 40,000 miles lol
It most definitely is a design flaw. Others have videos on it comparing engine blocks of the 5.7L GM and the Hemi. I'm on a second top end rebuild as I type this. Failed lifters, cam wiped. This one after only 5k miles! There should not be a block casting under the camshaft, preventing oil from being slung onto the cam from the crank. It is that simple. I know it, others know it, Dodge knows it. And they know that we know it. Will never purchase another Dodge anything, and I was Mopar for life. The 5.7 in my back up suburban (had to buy since the Dodges are always in my shop being worked on) has 300k miles and I beat it like a yard dog, yet purrs like a kitten. Wife's Journey 3.6L had a fatal head failure. Common problem, even on the 200's. So done, run, run away as fast as you can. Lol.
I just finished making an update video on this issue that addresses some of your concerns. It goes live on Monday! Be sure to check it out, and thank you for watching! 👍
Getting the rpms up is important with a hemi so more oil splashes on the cam and lifters. The lifters are so horizontal that the oil from above drips off them instead on going on the rollers
Dustin I think you are on point. These engines need to spin at 1,500 rpm or more so the windage coming off the crank throws will lubricate the lifter bearings. I keep my 300 is sport mode all the time and rev it bit at long lights. No idling. No problems so far and this is my third 5.7, although I traded one at 40K and the one I have now only has 31K (first I traded at just under 100K).
I would love to agree with your findings, however my 06 hemi with only 125,000 miles took a cap because of this lifter cam issue. This vehicle was taken care of like new born baby. Synthetic 5w20 changed like clockwork at 5000 miles. All tune ups done at proper intervals. It was important this vehicle got me at least 200,000 miles. I was gravely disappointed,as this was a military retirement gift from my wife. Now it sits unusable,can't afford to fix it. Contacted dodge and they blew me off. Will never buy a dodge again.
That is interesting, because it's actually really rare for the '06 models to have lifter failures, that didn't really start to happen until 2009. Have you had the car professionally diagnosed yet, or are you just thinking that's the issue? When is the tick noise present and what makes it better/worse? Is there a Check engine light on? Does it feel like the engine is misfiring at all? Let me know 👍
Wow, I expected to see some scoring but that is some pretty extreme wear! Great point about the idling time, especially for people who take their lunch breaks in fleet vehicles idling with the AC on.
Once it wears through the hardened surface of the lobe, the rest of the metal is like butter. Like I said, I've seen a few that have completely round lobes. Hilariously, the customer will say, "it 'just' started making noise!" 😄
@@alexdegrat1006 usually the standard is to check the oil control valve screen, if its plugged with metal it gets a whole new bottom end. If the screen is clear you should be 👍
I have a Ram with a 3.6, and it's a great engine, but I find I now need more towing capacity but was hesitant to trade it in for a 5.7. After seeing this, and know that I always change oil at recommended intervals or earlier, I feel better about the idea.
THANK YOU! Thats the best explanation on the Hemi tick I've heard so far. Question.. Is it true that the valve lifters get properly oiled from the oil getting slung off crankshaft 1500 RPMs or more like everybody else is saying?
Thanks for the kind words! As to your question: To an extent. I'm actually making a follow up video to this one that should be out in the next week or two that addresses this issue more fully, so stay tuned for that one! 👍
Sounded more like a commercial for the Hemi's. Oils and better than ever. What other pushrod engines have had lifter failure and galled cams from idling as much as the gen 3 Hemi??
Also for some reason the metal shavings have been found on the intake manifold, so a good idea is to remove the intake and have them cleaned and reinstalled or those metal partials are going right into the cylinder and that is a VERYVERY BAD ISSUE
Very informative video. I have a 2015 Ram 1500 with 5.7Hemi. With 91thousand miles. I love the truck. Other than one rear exhaust manifold stud broken off. No issues. I will pay attention to the engine hours. I had my ever sit and idle. I'm retired so I say away from heavy traffic hours.
Synthetic has less lubricity than dino oil. Fun fact. As a Dodge district service manager we saw numerous American Axle ring gear failures. Chrysler and American axle visited our large dealership and said take out synthetic and put in GL4 75w dino oil. Zero failures after that and we sold 200 trucks a month.
My opinion. When the lifter collapses to kill a cylinder the roller leaves the cam lobe on the heel. Then when the lobe comes around the roller slams into the cam which beats up the bearings. Also a roller bearing does not need much lube at all. But may be wrong ( as usual lol). Great video either way.
So... Mt thoughts - Use a oil additive especially if its high milage. If possible eliminate the mds and put either regular roller lifters or swap the whole roller combo and go back to flat tappet. I am not sold on the idea that its a design flaw so much as chrystler trying to do too much in saviving gas for the economy. I mean lets face it - its a 5.7, 5.4, etc. its a V8 for crying out loud. why in the h*** would you want to do that to a V8? Its not like you buy a V8 powered vehicle and want to save gas! if you wanted that then there are plenty of mini trucks or FWD cars around! Just saying.
You're certainly not wrong. To be honest, all of the manufacturers are doing similar things, and the problem is - it's government mandated. The EPA has established MPG numbers that each manufacturer must meet every year as a combination across their lineup, and every year that number goes up. This means that every single year the manufacturers are looking for any and every little bit that can bump up their numbers. I believe the MDS system on the Hemi improves gas mileage less than 8% overall, and that's actually a huge number. I'd agree as well that removing the MDS system seems to correct the issue, in fact, most aftermarket upgrades will do exactly that for this engine. Appreciate the thoughtful reply and more importantly I appreciate you watching!
@@ReignitedAuto I do have a question though. can you just change the mds lifters without changing the can of it has not gone bad yet or giving trouble codes. would that still set off codes if you did nothing to the mds sensors basically tricking the computer into thinking the mds lifters were still there. would that work?
@@ratchetswartz3321 The lifters can be changed without changing the cam, however, in order to swap out the lifters you must also replace the MDS solenoids with block off plugs instead, which are available from the dealer. Unfortunately this will most definitely set a Check Engine light.
@@scr454 very true. however, the mds engines have a known proven flaw. this is the reason for the blog. no cam and lifter should eat it before the engine reaches100000 miles old. all we are talking about is how to prolong the life of the engine to the point of normal failure.
The issue is not solely related to the frequency of oil changes and oils breakdown. It’s the distance from the camshaft to crankshaft and the fact that the oil doesn’t reach the lifter rollers at less than 1500rpm or so.
: Mr. reignited thanks for the info you are awesome. Your video is very charismatic, succint and to the point. Not all videographers, in fact most, lack the ability to teach in such a clear and succinct manner. This is the info I absolutely needed. Two years ago i Lost my 2006 5.7 truck engine to a sucked valve. Being a dodge fan, I bought a 2009 5.7 L truck. Then it started developing a tick that I was very concerned about, but it goes away if I just let the truck warm-up for about two minutes.… Now I am going to go get my exhaust bolts fixed. As you probably already know just having this knowledge has relieved so much stress about my truck. I am also going to take your advice and preempt any further problems. Again, thank you very much I will be watching your channel in the future. JB
Personal history with three SBC motors. All had oil changes every 2k miles. All went deep in to the 300k mile range with no major engine work. All sold in running condition, one to my knowledge, still on the road. Regular oil changes is the cheapest maintenance a car guy can put in to a motor. I don't have as many miles on the two Hemi's yet, but I expect the same results with frequent oil changes - ahead of the FCA recommended schedule.
I hate to say it, but it's an often overlooked part of basic maintenance. Engines today work so well that people just flat out forget to service them, because they don't have issues immediately like older engines might have. Appreciate your reply and thank you for watching! 👍
Happened to my 2011 Ram 1500 4x4 with 117k miles. Had to replace the entire long block due to metal shards in the engine from the lobe getting eaten. Had $100 synthetic oil changes at the dealership every 3000 miles. What a waste. Will never buy another Ram again. Oh and I very very very very rarely idle. If I sit for more than five minutes I turn off my engine.
170,000 and no problems,I use amsoil and a better wix filter I am planning on a forged engine build with all the goods . Ram has been a great truck. I matter of fact never had problems with gm or fords trucks but I use amsoil and do my own maintenance.
@@littlejohn6694 130k on my 06 charger...i litterally beat the hell out of it. the ''slap shift'' gets used very often, taking it RIGHT up to the 5700 5800 redline or just cap of its power and then shift, constant abuse in winter. 3k oil changes (5-6k kms) with your cheapo penzoil castrol synthetics and a mopar OEM filter (From the Dealer).... (4-5 dollars for an OEM filter....how can you go wrong? Canadian dollars too). No problems yet so?
I only use full synthetic in my 2014 challenger. I only drive it on very nice Texas sunny days my mileage proves it only 12,000. Had to argue with dealer about first oil change had the car for 1 year only 2,000 miles on it. Told him the car sits a lot so I want full synthetic ( which I change every year as part of yearly inspection/registration maintenance ). Never a problem until this year started car very rough idle CEI dealer multiple misfires. Way home engine smoothed out so I drove it a bit hard off/on for about 125 miles CEI went off. Not a problem since. I do have that cold start tick but had that since 2,000 miles
The digital dash display should have a sensor that monitors the camshaft lobe height as it wears prematurely: "WARNING...you now have .480 lift....WARNING...you now have .450 lift...WARNING...you now have .400 lift."
I absolutely call bullshit on Chrysler "bad oil" BS , take a look at the lifters when you take them out you will see scouring on the the bodys on opposing sides from right bank and left bank, now look at the drain holes in the block casting...they are inches away from the cam so oil is not draining on the cam like a traditional pushrod engine now you will also notice no through holes to the roller in the lifters so basically what you have here is at 1500-2000rpm and up the crankshaft is slinging oil all over the cam lubricating it and the rollers but at low rpm or idle the draining oil is just falling down away from the cam except for a few lucky splatters and the crank obviously isn't spinning fast enough to throw it upwards...thats the issue, what they need to do is update the casting to have a few threaded holes in that oil galley and put in oil squirters for the cam then they could continue to manufacture on their current platform...otherwise they need to scrap it and start over, now from a performance perspective the placement and angle of the lifters being high and wide does have performance benefits,as a matter of fact when Toyota first entered Nascar the blocks they were using operated on a very similar idea allowing more reliable higher rpm valvetrain function but the way Chrysler has made this it desperately needs oil squirters because virtually the only lubricating that's stuff gets is what the crank literally throws at it....I challenge anyone to actually tear one of these down,physically inspect the layout and the cam and lifters then tell me it has anywhere even close to the lubrication it needs...the location of the drain back is the big wtf here, and I kinda question the oil flow going into the top lifter area in the first place as well
I appreciate the informed reply. There's no doubt that in any engine there are design improvements that could be made, i think with any company they will decide what is an acceptable amount of failures before changing a design. In this case the lifter failures are happening to a relatively low percentage of engines, so I don't think they are inclined to update it. I do agree that improvements can be made though 👍
@@ReignitedAuto 👍 absolutely, always room for improvement , as I believe you stated as well it currently appears,based on my experiences, that the higher percentage of failures are coming from county trucks, construction fleets...ECT and thats why I took my time diving into it on the last repair,while I can't really speak for county maintenance I do know the team of one construction fleet that had 2 trucks go down about the same time and they were properly cared for,in my mind I'm thinking what's the difference between how these guys use their vehicle as opposed to a normal everyday person going about their day to day and the big obvious is they idle for hours with their lights running, as I tore into it started to make sense why it seemed to lack lubrication under those circumstances, please take no offense to my initial comment,thanks for the video I hope Chrysler figures this one out before alot of people get really disappointed in an expensive investment.Merry Christmas
Finally did a trans service. On my 09 at 40k using maxlife full syn. As well as switching to a mobil one rear end oil. She is whisper quiet. And smooth as glass. Maybe I'm lucky. Or my ocd...works. lol.
I can remember as a professional mechanic all the camshaft failures on the 305 Chevrolet engine. My 2011 jeep grand Cherokee does have a tick from the exhaust manifold, which i have seen many times from broken exhaust manifold bolts on the 4.7, and I would have hoped Chrysler would have installed heavier bolts on the 5.7 but evidently they chose to install the same useless bolts.
By golly, ole Uncle Tony was 100% right. Like you, he also stated that the lifters are positioned more horizontally than other designs, therefore, the oil doesn't flow as well to the lifters during extended idling. The first of 2 videos he made about this had to be close to a year ago, if not longer.
I have to say that it is a physical impossibility for oil to actually break down. Boiled does get dirty that's the truth. Now if your cam is breaking down and your lifters are breaking down there putting case-hardened material into the oil ultimately important to change the oil out of a locked in any High Performance Engine. You're always going to have case-hardened material breaking down off the parts and falling into the oil. Change your oil a lot that is the truth. No High Performance Engine likes to idle that's a fact. The 5.7 is a great motor.
Good video man.. Another reason why I'm old school when it comes to old change. I don't go by milage or what the cluster show me on percentage .I just pull the dipstick. If the oil look alike is getting black I'll go head and do an oil change
Hey guys, I just posted an update video to address some of your comments and to post some new information I found! Check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/8lj4mLhAI4Y/v-deo.html
I transport Hazmat and the idle hours are high, but we service the trucks every 60 days of usage. Regardless of brand or engine, they all have gone over 250k miles without opening the engines. We only get rid of them because of California's ever changing emissions laws.
@@e.l.9589 When you idle the engine you have to increase the RPMs so as to maintain combustion temperatures. If you don’t raw fuel gets mixed in with the engine oil. Even diesel an engine oil well decrease the lubricity of engine oil and cause wear and tear in the engine. When I drive around town in stop and go traffic are use the tow haul mode. The owners manual tells me that it increases engine RPMs to maintain proper engine temperature for proper combustion. You either use it or you lose it. You either stroke it or you smoke it. You rub it for you scrub it. You slide it or you hide it. You smell it or you dealt it.
@@blueboltstrike6705 My 2500 6.4 seems to run above 200°F, and my Transmission stays @ 169°-172°. My work 5500 runs below 200°F, and transmission seems to stay 150's°-160's°. The information that you guys provide has had me cutting down on idling. Location is Southern California, so I never see cold weather. Thanks for all of the information.
Cool info. My 2007 Ram has 104K , miles and it doesnt sit and idle. It has a lot of highway miles, runs great with no noises. It doesn't quite start as easy as my 2018 Challenger with the 5.7 as well. It doesnt start hard but i let it sit w/ the key turned to ON for a few or so seconds before turning the key and its good to go. It hasnt had any issues with ticking, lifter noise or a bad water pump. One time when it sat for a while i got a misfire code but reset it and hasnt happened since and dont let it sit that long anymore. Ive used conventional oil in my Ram but started using Synthetic in the Challenger. Maybe ill switch to synthetic in the Ram but dont know its thats a good idea considering the miles on it. I change the oil every 4K.
No the problem is lifter angle because mopar raised the cam. Their should be a recall. Your just giving a victim their best odds to go down swinging. Why not tell them to never idle their engines. Same results or to have the cam and lifters changed every 20.000 miles. And in the mean time all that metal is reaking havoc on every lubricated part in the engine. I'm 110% MOPAR and they should recall their fault.
One clarification that a lot of people don't know. A recall can only be applied to a safety issue. If it's just a mechanical issue it's called a technical service bulletin, and there's nothing to force them to do it. Companies will all of the time release a technical service bulletin that explains there's a problem that has come up over time, and here's how to fix it. But they won't pay for it to be done. Recalls as a safety issue are government mandated that the factory pay to fix it. A clear example of this: The 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Diesel I just rebuilt was making a terrible buzzing noise after shutoff. I found a TSB stating that the 2011 models they found the turbo actuator vacuum line was designed poorly, and needed to be replaced with an updated design to make the noise go away. But I've got to pay for the updated design if I want it. I've heard a lot about the theory that the raised cam is the issue. I'm not going to disregard it, but I'd really like to see some actual data beyond speculation that's the issue. If I can get some actual numbers that prove that to be the problem I'd be glad to make another video explaining that. 👍
Sorry, but lifter bearings are weak. Hemi engines production years 2011 to 2015 may potentially have lifter fail before 100K miles. . Lifters have since been revised "different PN" . Lifters fitted from 2016 production have beefier roller needles to countermeasure early life failure.
@@TM-to3jc may depend on part number on your installed ones. Odd to hear a 2017/with seized roller typically found with AA ones. 2016 lifter roller design did change to AB albeit from same supplier. Perhaps that’s why supplier was changed after 2016/2017 which also changed lifter PN to AC. Interesting.
Had the same thing in my 2010 around 240,000km got the truck as is from a dealer thinking it was just plugs or wires turned out that 2 of the lifters Seized and war them cam down to almost to a perfect circle.
The issue is that the MDS lifters only receives oil once MDS is activated. Otherwise they only rely on splash. Remove the mds solenoid and replace the lifters with non mds lifters.
I love my 5.7 hemi i think it is the best hemi Chrysler has ever made and I been working on them for 50 years and had all the motors they ever made and my rt hemi is the best car I ever bought
@@Bartonovich52 i watched a video a while ago (I can't find the link) from a guy who works alot on LS engine, he was working on one that had a similar issue he was saying that it was common on all the LS engine with cylinder deactivation. I haven't heard as much about LS engine but the guy seemed to know what he was talking about. It really seems like its a cylinder deactivation issue.
It is a fatal flaw. Face it, a roller lifter should never fail with any regularity. It is a lubrication issue caused from lack of oil on the needles and rollers.
2012 5.7 HEMI REBUILD UPDATE I have a 2012 Dodge Charger 5.7 HEMI pursuit that I use for TxDOT Freeway/interstate off duty in Texas. As you might guess, I idle most of the shift 6-14 hours. 1 year ago approximately; my lifters failed on my engine @ about 150k. (Previous lifter/cam replacement prior to me purchasing this vehicle @ 75k miles) I had the engine rebuilt with the HEMI HELLCAT oil pump, HELLCAT lifters, and the rest of the engine rebuilt as well. As mentioned, my idle PSI (5w20 FS) was approximately 45-55 psi from 20-25psi previously. It’s been a year and 2 months 14k miles. I changed the oil every 2-3 months, Penzoil Platinum FS 5w20. And I experiencing lifter failure AGAIN. This time, 95% piston 1 (MDS). The rest have rare and occasional misfires. At idle and in motion it sounds like a lawnmower. I’m saving every penny for the coming rebuild and repair I know I will have to do AGAIN. I should repair it ASAP, but I literally cannot afford the 4-6k it will cost. I MIGHT be able to get it down to 3k, if I shop around. I am very very very frustrated and disappointed. Previous to this, lifters lasted 75k miles approximately. This time, they lasted 15k!!! I am at a complete loss, I have no explanations or theories other than maybe higher pressure oil burns up faster and needs to be changed more frequently. Maybe if I changed the oil every month it would have been different. For anyone thinking it will fix this issue, there are obviously other variables at play and the low pressure oil pump appears to be a correlation to lifter failure. I don’t think it can be said at this point, oil PSI is the CAUSE, not yet anyways.
On Uncle Tony's Garage he tore a Gen 3 Hemi apart before it had lifter problems and just looked for signs of wear. Then he compared two different blocks where only one of them was a Gen 3. I think he has the best video on the so called lifter problem because he did the most research.
Thank goodness for the Internet where all if this can come to light. No way I'd spend 50K on a Challenger Scatpack, etc. A failure at 15,000 miles - unreal. Good video by the way -- well done and delivered.
If you want to see the very latest video I have on this subject you can check it out here! ua-cam.com/video/wpl8aZiPK0E/v-deo.html
I have a '10 RAM 1500 with 211000 miles on a 5.7 and it posted a code for cyl 3 misfire and started to tick. I figured it was a lifter failure and pulled the heads and found one of the lifters had seized the roller. I noted that it appeared to be into the cam some as the sides were also slightly worn. After pulling the cam it is worn significantly, seems like it had been doing it for longer than I thought. My plan was to just replace the cam and lifters, but now I am wondering if I may have a contamination issue and should do more. I have photos of the affected lifter and cam lobe that I could show that may help the decision. I have pulled the cam phaser to check the screens, they are clear. I am wondering what your thoughts would be on this situation and what you might recommend. I don't want to be pushy, but I am in somewhat of a time crunch and a quick response would be greatly appreciated. I understand if you can not however. Thanks
@@waltergrasmick5615 if the oil control valve screen is clear as you mentioned I'm totally fine with just replacing the cam/lifters. Might make sense to do a quick oil change about 500 miles after the repair just to be thorough, but that's my opinion. 👍
Thanks for the quick reply. I will go ahead and proceed with the cam and lifters only. I had just changed the oil about 800 miles before the fault, but will be changing it now for sure. And I will take your advice to change it again after 4 to 5 hundred.
Again, thank you for the great content you have and for the quick response.
@ReignitedAuto I agree
After you replaced the cam and lifters. What are the chances it's going to happen again since nothing has changed. Are the new cams and lifters now better ?
ive been dealing with this hemi tick for over a year and a fresh rebuild of the entire rotating assembly. you're a lifesaver for pioneering the search for the fix of the tick. im going to try your hellcat oil pump next and i am PRAYING it works. will update here for anyone is interested
Hmmm I’m not completely sold on the oil breakdown , Perhaps Inadequate oil flow at long periods of idle.
And I'm willing to admit there may be an issue there as well, I just don't have any actual data to agree/disagree. 👍
Watch uncle Tony’s garage, he explains it is a lack of oil supply to the lifters which makes sense as well.
@@ReignitedAuto It may be cool to do an oil anyalysis with blackstone, I changed my oil at 8k miles and they said it had plenty of life left
That is my guess! I don't think the entire oil in the pan is breaking down! Better look at metallurgy and too much stress on the lifter bearing!
That is the reason .. Scotty has discussed this issue several times .. They moved the lifters higher up in the engine out of the oil.. Thus at lower rpm's there is inadequate lubrication
I have NEVER worked on an engine that had to many oil changes!
yup I have worked one. I was always changing the oil.
I watched a video done by a very experienced dodge mechanic and he figured that by raising the camshaft like they did in this engine not enough oil is getting to the lifters and cam. More oil changes may help but I say it's a design flaw that it should need such special care. Other engines survive.
Lots of speculation that is why this is happening. I'm not against it, as I'm only a mechanic and not an engineer, but I haven't seen conclusive evidence yet verifying it. But neither have I seen anything conclusively ruling it out. I'd love to see a company do some in depth testing on it 👍
I'm impressed about how you explain everything in detail in a short time without getting boring. Very very informative for me as a future RAM owner!
Chrysler’s “engine oil breakdown” is and easy out so they don’t have to admit a design issue and possibly extending the warranty on the cam/lifters.
There is truth to this statement, however, this issue is happening to such a low percentage of overall vehicles that if this were truly a design flaw it would be happening to a much higher percentage of Hemi engines.
D0DGEd that bullet & they're happy to Ram a 5k bill up your kiester
There are thousands of premature failures...you even admitted to having replaced dozens...this is a design flaw that Chrysler needs to own up to.
Exactly!!
@@TM-to3jc This guy on this channel that runs the show here is just trying to kiss Chrysler’s ass. There’s no way it’s the fault of the oil manufacturers. The engine oil cannot get to the lifters and the needle bearings and the roller causing it to get loose causing compounding damage to the cam. The cam shaft is not getting the oil it should either. The roller on the lifter is not properly lubricated and wearing on the camshaft and the needle bearings are causing the roller to fail causing even more wear on the camshaft.
This man is the best💪 direct to the point, no fancy or innecesary things and with knowledge
Thanks man I appreciate that! And thank you for watching 👍
Watch uncle Tony’s explanation, perfect sense
SOLID!!! THANK YOU!!! BEST description I HAVE SEEN!!!!!! I started adding Lucas Syn oil additive for one quart and switched to WIX filters. I also change my oil every 8 mo or 4k miles... I do not have a lot of idle time during this time. Only use Mobil one Full syn.
Good Idea about the Lucas Oil additive. Maybe I'll start using that in my 14' Charger Hemi. And yes, I use Mobil 1 synthetic as well.
Careful with Lucas, it’s very thick; I blew my 2008 Charger engine right after using this. I have a 2012 now and will never use it again. I’m not the only one saying this.
I think Lucas is meant to thicken up the oil and fill in the spaces of a heavily worn engine.
That would not help in this situation. AND, it could actually decrease oil flow and increase sludge in some engines.
Research it before you put it in your (newer) 2014. Can I say for SURE it was the Lucas? No. But it was very suspicious.
I theorize, INCREASING the film strength and INCREASING the oil pressure will help our engines for this specific problem.
I have switched to 10w30, for this reason. No CEL codes thrown when using it, also.
I’m glad I watched this. I needed to know not to stretch my oil changes in my new Challenger RT.
That's a sweet car, I hope you enjoy it! 👍
Hemi girl keep that oil changed every 3mths just upgraded to 392 much fun
Never go over 4000 miles, and don't use conventional oil.
Yup...as they say: "oil is cheap...engines are expensive!"
I have a 2014 R/T Charger with 195,000 miles on it. Just started hearing the tick on start up. Will be checking the exhaust bolts. Thanks for the tip.
Nice video. I have seen similar tear down analysis on other videos discussing this problem. I would disagree with the statement that this is not a design problem. An engine should be designed to operate reliably under the range of operating conditions it will be subjected to. It is not unreasonable to expect an engine installed in police and commercial vehicles to spend a lot of time idling. The engine design should be tolerant of that operating pattern.
That's a fair point, but I do think there is validity to the argument that if you are only changing the oil based on mileage, as fleet companies tend to do, that the oil is being tasked far beyond it's intended life cycle. I do agree that there are always design improvments that can be made retroactively to repair issues like this, however, I believe Chrysler is willing to take their lumps for the relatively small percentage of overall failures they are seeing.
I changed the oil in my 2010 Ram 1500 every 3000 miles, with the exception of a 3-4 times I was around 4000 miles and this failure happened to me at 118k miles. I typically used castrol 5w-20 conventional oil. This is a daily driver and no long idle times like fleet or police vehicles.
Conventional? Eeek. I change mine in my 06 Daytona Charger every 3k miles ish (5-6k kms) with just cheapo pennzoil castrol ect engine oil that's on sale, use a OEM Mopar Oil filter (i somehow get them straight from the dealer for likr 5 6 dollars...not sure why) And no problems as of 130k ish miles, driven hard.
I change my oil every 10,000 miles with pennz oil synthetic oil ,& never idle my truck more than 2 minutes ,& iv got 200,000 miles on my truck ,never had an issue, not once
@@donkeyballs3307what year?
@@mtn-endeavors67 2014
I had no issues with my 392 but i put Schaeffer Oil in it from the beginning - Run Schaeffer Oil and you won't have any problems. The best oil on the planet
Caterpillar in the past used the same type of lifter on the 3400 series engines, I I at the time now around 30 years ago rebuilt many many of these. Some of these lifters would fail in very few engines and the cause of failure was always oil related either wrong oil or not frequent enough oil changes so I think you are spot on to it, thanks for the vid.
Appreciate you watching!
The breaking down of the oil might be part of the cause but I know one of the main causes is the design of the engine block where that tube flows through the lifter valley and keeps oil from dripping down through the galleys where it's supposed to go
Check out my latest video discussing the oil flow for this issue! Link is in the pinned comment at the top 👍
I must say, this saved me around $1600 if I decided to fix it or god knows how much if I sold my car.
My car is a 2008 5.7 charger R/T with 175K miles 1st owner. When I heard the tik I thought that's it this car is done. I even checked the issue and they said it is the lifters! Parked it for two weeks until I get my sh** together only to see this video that gave me hope. I checked the car with two dodge mechanics and an exhaust shop and found the leak in right hand side headers and now I'm happy! Thank you so much Mr. Reignited❤️
Hey that's awesome! Good to hear my man and thank you for watching 👍
You're PARTIALLY correct in your explanation of it being a lack of sufficient lubrication issue, but it's not actually exactly as you described it. It's because at idle these roller needle bearings are not being supplied with ENOUGH oil to properly lubricate them. These engines supply oil to the lifter bearings by means of splash coating. At idle, not enough oil is being splashed onto them to provide sufficient lubrication. Tony from "Uncle Tonys Garage" explains it wonderfully. Give it a watch and see if you agree or disagree with his explanation. I love your channel, it's VERY informative. Keep up the good work!
This video is quite old now, I've got a bunch of newer videos showing my solutions with actual results. As to UTG, no I don't agree with that being the issue. Engines aren't built exactly like they were in the 60's. I have another video that shows the exact path of oil through the Hemi engine, and "splash" lubrication is not the only oil the camshaft receives. 👍
great video, my daily driver is a 2010 Ram with the 5.7 Hemi, it's got 181,000 miles and no lifter tick. Runs and drives great with no issues. I run high quality synthetic with good filters and try hard not to let me try truck idle for very long. Take care of it and it'll last!
The non mds variants eat lifters too. I work alongside a fleet of late model 3/4 and 1 ton trucks... oldest being 2017. These things idle as you say and I can't speak for what their service intervals are. All of these trucks I see are 5.7s so they are non mds and the lifters still fall apart. I tend to agree with the lifters running too close to horizontal and simply not oiling the rollers at idle speeds. The oil change interval seems more of a cop out for a blatant design flaw.
This oil business is so true , I drive a fleet truck and at times my truck has to idle for many hours and after 7yrs the cam was worn out creating lots of noise so the engine had to be replaced, this was on a 2014 3/4 ton chevy work truck.
I change my oil every 3-4K using Mobil1 syn in my Ram with 63k, now the tick, not exhaust and not diluted oil. Call ERS, engine rebuilder supply in Troutdale Oregon, they told me every hemi they have gotten in has had bad cam/lifters.
Everyone always asks me to tell them which cars i see the most problems on, and I have to tell them, I only see the broken ones, that doesn't take into account the millions of them still on the road operating correctly. I would probably imagine than an engine rebuilding company would see issues with cam and lifters, otherwise it probably wouldn't have come to their company in the first place. All that being said, are you from Oregon? I miss it, we just moved a little over a year ago from bend. I've spent a lot of time near Troutdale though, since my brother in law lives in hood river. Beautiful area!
@@ReignitedAuto live in Gresham Oregon right next to troutdale my 2017 hemi ram ticks right after I changed the oil for a few days on startup then goes away until next oil change afterwards then no more ticking is that a problem it only has 19,000 miles on it I changed the oil at 3500 MI no Long idle at all. Using 5-20 Pennzoil oil full synthetic. Would like your thought on that. PS run truck with MDS off all the time.
@@joefurrer5428 I wouldn't see that as an issue at all. Normally the lifter tick noise is far more prominent after the engine is fully warmed up, and at 19k miles you should be golden 👍. Drove through Gresham many times on my way to Portland, can't take the rain though!
@@ReignitedAuto thanks for the reply yes it does rain here move from Portland to Gresham get away from big City big city is making it to Gresham and troutdale in Fairview do not like. Lived here all my life used to the rain but we get a lot of wind out in this area from the gorge.
I watched uncle tonys garage a while back. He explained what he figured the flaw was and why. You should really watch it. It makes perfect sense. And it’s kind of the same as what you are explaining.
I agree Uncle Tonys Garage figured it out, they need oil and these motors don't supply the cam with enough of it.
@@codywills1408 exactly right cody. Makes sense doesnt it.
Lol. Uncle Tony garage video is completely wrong. WTH
It's most likely due to a failure of the needle bearings
My Uncle Tony knows what he's talking about . I'm surprised that they don't have an after-market fix for their oiling problem
Tony does mention the flaw as this gentleman describes as a oil issue. I like this explanation as I don’t want to keep racing
I saw that video, and I'd like to see this guy watch and make a video about utg video on the gen 3 hemi
Same thing my mechanic buddy told me when I bought my Ram 1500 in November. Change your oil every 5k or sooner. Do it religiously and you should be fine. I love my Ram with the 5.7 Hemi. I’m almost at 3 I so I’ll be scheduling one by the time I hit 4K.
Thanks for watching! 👍
Simple explanation of failures, simple solution. I always change my oil every 5,000 miles. Also glad my 14' Charger Hemi is only used domestically. Not for fleet vehicle use.
One Chrysler tech I know, said to make sure you run synthetic oil and change it in half the time the factory time frame states...
Oil maintenance is absolutely critical. A LOT of people think that since oil change intervals are longer than in older vehicles, people get complacent, and this simple service procedure is neglected. Can't do that. Of the failures he has seen, which actually are not many, ...THAT is the main cause of this problem.
Agreed.
I bought my 2006 Ram 1500 HEMI brand new and I have always changed the oil between 2,500-3,000 miles and now she has only 78k miles and purrs like a kitten. A few years back I did replace the 203 degrree thermostat with a 190.
My 2010 Ram lifters failed at 130k in 2018. I drive 50 miles a day, 80% highway. I used Amsoil and changed the oil at 6k, and I did every oil change. So, I really don’t believe lack of oil changes is all the cause. I was there when they took and heads off and it was spotless inside. You’d never have known it had 130k.
There are always going to be outliers like yours unfortunately, I think my point was more that lack of maintenance will hasten failure overall 👍
6k is too long even with syn... stick with 4k. These engines need it.
The real problem is lack of oil flow too the lifters,being a tech you should know that,the fact that fleet vech have more problems is because idle oil pressure and there is not enough getting too the lifters.
@@Pickleram I've heard this a fair bit, but haven't seen any actual data to back it up. I'd be legitimately interested in real results, if it can be Proven true I'll make an update video 👍
@Wolf IT Solutions owners manual wasn’t 3k intervals in 2010
This video eased my mind. I have a 2011 Ram with 65,000 miles and change the oil every 3000 miles with synthetic oil. I look forward to many more years and miles.
Obviously there's no guarantees, but it sounds like you're doing everything right. Thanks for watching!
Sell it before the lifters go bad. Nothing to do with oil changes, the lifters don't get oil at low pressure, low rpm and idle.
I went from conventional oil, to synthetic blend, and my tick has stopped now. Next oil change is full synthetic! Wish I had listened to these younger guys sooner, instead of following my own old ways!
fully synthetic will not fix this or keep it from occurring. I've run Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic since I bought my challenger new. Only 46K miles and it's a manual trans with no mds. I've had lifter tick for 30L miles and dodge said it was normal or a small exhaust leak so I ignored it. Bad mistake. I now have to replace the lifters and cam due to wiped lobes and bad lifters. I know several others who have 5.7L engines who are experiencing misfires now and who have the lifter tick. I have over 1M miles of driving under my belt and I've never had a mechanical issue with any of my engines until the 5.7L. I'll be pulling the cam next weekend to see how bad things are.
Thanks. I am planning to buy a RAM with the 5.7. Based on everything I found it seems like a maintenance issue. You confirmed it. Seems like all modern engines are sensitive to oil quality. I think I am going to do a 5000-mile interval. In the old days we used to do 3000 miles. Thanks for the great video.
Great info and advice! One more factor - supplier quality, supplier changes, production changes... Sometimes can do everything perfect, best oil, frequent changes... and get burned by a random supplier quality issue. It's like peanut M&Ms... most are awesome, once a while you get a rotten sugar coated rotten peanut.
Absolutely agree 👍
No doubt this issue and it’s omnipresence of the discussions about it have driven me, and many prospective buyers to Ford and GM for big gas V8’s...
That is true, but if you look into it, Chevy is having a lot of problems with their DOD system as well, it's just not publicized as much. Thanks for watching! 👍
I work on these every day. I also worked for GM a while too. I can tell you I've swapped lifters at both dealerships...
But its so much easier for people to hate on Chrysler products 😄
Fords eat them too, well actually the roller rockers, I had a 05 5.4 needing a engine at 100k,
@@garysisk3431 Them ''older'' 5.4s yeah the rollers would start tap tap tappity, customer ignore it as ''manifold leak'' and then it grenades itself, no good. All engines got problems, dealer techs obviously get a first hand view of what goes wrong, but then again remember, cars don't come to the dealer/shop without problems or reason. If they come it's because of routine maintenance or they have problems. You get the broken ones.
I have an 09 5.7 hemi. Challenger. Being a toy. I only use her for long trips. It's never used for short trips. I use a good syn. So far so good. I give her a lil warm up time. Then super slab till I get where I'm going. Great vid sir. Thank you
Great video, but there’s plenty of documented lifter failures in these engines even when “proper” maintenance was done(3k oil changes, full synthetic etc). Bottom line is that there is a design flaw in these engines. Crown Vic police cars idle just as much as HEMI equipped vehicles and failures in the crown vic aren’t even close to that of the HEMI.
The Hemi is being pushed for power, like nearing 400hp to the engine 5.7l which let's be fair...older 350s (345 is the cubic of the 5.7) Are pushing? what 150 200 horse? Stock that is. They designed them different for more power and there are some flaws. Idle Oil pressure is like 20 Psi which i'm not super fond of, the MDS system surely isn't the best for it, there needs to be an aftermarket either the solenoids for MDS need to be block off, or just let them oil the lifters non stop (change to Non MDS style lifters) and give the rollers constant oiling with no 4 cyl mode. Basically, over engineering, need for emmisions garbage and mileage are the reason which things fail. 350s didn't get good milage, granted these Hemis are not that great either, but for the power they make it sure is ok. Crown vics were nice an reliable and they had what the 4.6s in them, they are ''simpler'' in their design lets say just because they're not all out for power.
I own a 2018 Ram 2500 with the 6.4 . Excellent power fora 6500 lb. truck.Change oil every 4,000 miles with recommended 0-40 Pennzoil synthetic. No funky noises. Gets 17 plus on highway. But, I remember I bought a '79 ford F150 with 80,000 miles for a work truck. The 1st owner abused it, but it ran perfect. I kept it for 26 years, until I sold it. Had close to 300,000 miles on it. No MDS, no computers , no BS. New Rams, Tin can Fords and Chi-com GM's all have problems. I'll take old tech anyday!
The old tech definitely has a rep for reliability and simplicity, but as far as efficiency goes it's a different story. I used to get so annoyed at the people who would come into my dealership complaining about the gas mileage of their new ram diesel, "I used to get 20mpg from my 12 valve, this thing barely gets 14!" Does your 12 valve have enough torque to pull the moon out of orbit? No? Well I wonder how your new truck is making all that power? Oh Yes, that's right from more fuel! 😂😂😂
I'm just an old school mechanic but I think he nailed. These new school muscle engines have tighter tolerances than my old school engines therefore they need better oils and more frequent oil changes. I don't know how many oil changes you could push out with old school engines before they grenade but it's not that they were better just built differently. Look at it this way back in the early days of NASCAR if you finished a race and your engine was still running strong you may change the oil, filter and re-gap the plugs before the next race. Now days they pull the engine and replace it. Then tear down that same engine that finished the race strong and check it for stress and wear of every part. That's the difference between then and now with new school engines
Nascar never ran an engine multiple races. They were always torn doen and rebuilt after a race.
@@kylebelk5932 not sure how old you are but back in the day they did.
You Man Friend ARE A SAINT !!!! Wife's 5.7 has the infamous tick and mine is starting . Hers is very noticeable tick where mine is very light . Thank You for the Awesome video
Appreciate you watching 👍
@@ReignitedAuto You Are VERY WELCOME !!! Def explains what hey issues are and how to go about diagnosing ... I'll probably change oil first then go from there
It may have been mentioned already, Uncle Tony's garage figured out that the lifters are too high in the block, and they don't get oiled or splashed. Sorry if I'm repeating what you've already seen in the comments
I need to watch his video, haven't had a chance to check it out yet. 👍
Corvairs also suffer dropped valve seats. And this is late fifties technology, quality control with pretty bad in those days. I have taken apart a number of corvair engines. But there's no real damage except your off the side of the road, dead. Because of the
horizontal layout of the engine, the dropped seat just rattles around. You could you can still drive it. And it happens to mostly the four carburetor, oversize valve high performance engine, 1965 to 69, but any Corvair engine can be susceptible. A trick is to turn the engine off in gear, thus lowering the idle speed, introducing less cold raw fuel into a hot combustion chamber
@@CORVAIRWILD I wish that were true with the Hemi! The older ones from '03-07 were bad about dropping valve seats. I've actually got a playlist of videos from a 2006 chrysler 300C where this happened. Unfortunately when it does, it shatters into about a million pieces of metal that get showered into the whole engine and destroy it :(
Im now installing my 2nd set of lifters and another cam, just 2.5 years after the first. I can tell you with certainty its both the lifter design and the cams not being heat treated correctly.
One of the hydraulic type lifters had the valve opening go slightly sideways internally. It was stuck half open. BUT...the cam on one other lobe had PITTING that just started at the the top of the lobe, and strangely enough, zero damage to the lifter for it.
Another lobe had linear lines across the top width wise.
The first looked like the surface of the lobe had chipped off.
The 2nd is possibly due to the needle bearings on the roller starting to fail but coincidentally, it was also at the top point of the lobe. That part of the cam is the smallest and therefore cools the fastest when tempering. I do not think they are compensating for it correctly.
The cam was from the dealer and lifters I went after market with, not wanting to trust them from Dodge again.
Really like this truck, but once this is done.....the truck is going up for sale, and Im not buying another Ram. Fact is they have the highest maintenance costs on the market for the first 10 years.
I have 3 Hemis with over 100k miles and two with over 200k miles on it. I always use this product call Engine Restore on all my oil change, it basically helps the oil to stick and stay on all metal moving parts. I also Rebuilt the hemi motors as well. It's good stuff, I use on my SRT and my two 5.7 hemi.👌
Thanks for the feedback! 👍
Let me guess, you sell it; LMAO ROTFL
Go somewhere else to peddle your snake oil lol
I have a lifter tick that happens because of the oil draining down when I park my truck on a hill. I have resolved this by holding the accelerater down when cranking until oil pressure comes up. I didnt know why the drain down was so bad until this video showed the orientation of the lifters in the block. This makes sense to me now. I hope that for the first 20,000 miles I haven't done any damage with the dry starts of this truck because of it being parked on the incline.
Your gonna think I’m crazy but I could swear my engines playing ping pong? Nice vid proper maintenance can never be over stressed.
I believe when u use high viscosity engine oil u will not have most of these problems for example here in the middle east (95 to 122 F degrees) we use 15w40 and 20w50 and the cars last more than 200k miles but if u live in colder climate u can use 10w40 oil (v8 engines has more heat than smaller engines needs higher viscosity)
I know I'm opening my self up to be torn apart but, I have a '17 1500 Laramie with the 5.7. At this point I have no noises or problems at 67k miles. I change my oil at 5k miles at the dealer and the computer says I still have around 45% oil life yet. 2 questions, 1- is there a brand of oil that Chrysler recommends I use over another? 2- is it bad to use my remote start system and let the truck warn up for 10 min or so in the morning before I leave? I absolutely love this truck and want to do good by it.
No specific brand of oil, I know we had Penzoil at our dealer, but not sure if that was Chrysler recommended or just what we used. Just stick with the 5-20. I wouldn't worry about Idling it to warm it up in the mornings for two reasons, 1: when the engine is cold the oil is "thicker" and has more oil pressure, 2: I'm really talking about extended idle time like 1hr+ on a consistent basis. You should be good to go 👍
@@ReignitedAuto THANKS!
Man awesome video! Would love to learn the knowledge you have on these modern Hemi engines!!
Thanks man, but I'm nobody special, there's a lot of great Chrysler techs out there, just trying to bring some of my experience to you guys 👍
@@ReignitedAuto well, you have a subscriber in me sir!😎 love the mopar content
Yes, but there are ALOT OF BAD ONES, especially working at the dealerships! Never had my car so screwed up x3 after an “airbag recall.” (Moritz Dodge, Ft Worth). Horrible!!
My #5 exhaust lifter went bad and took out the cam pretty good. Then #2 was starting. I'm 2014 Ram 2500 5.7l, doesn't have mds. It's pretty crazy how many videos are out now. I replaced mine myself, not the worst but a big undertaking for someone that doesn't work on vehicles very often. Learn the steps and take your time and it's really not bad.
I appreciate the comment, I haven't heard much about the non MDS lifters failing, good to know. You are correct about it not being that bad of a job, the engine architecture is pretty straightforward on a Hemi so its not overly technical. Sounds like you're downplaying your technical ability though, good on you for doing it yourself! 👍
Here is a updated. It's been 3 years 42,000 miles and the engine sounds strong with no ticking or knocking sounds. I've only used Royal purple 5w30 oil at 4k to 5k intervals. It does idle for work but will idle it up if I'm sitting in it to bring oil pressure up. I'll check back in another 40,000 miles lol
Gracias. Voy a seguir sus recomendaciones. Tengo un Durango 2009, 5,7 lt, con 115.000 km. Aún no tiene el tick. Saludos desde Chile.
It most definitely is a design flaw. Others have videos on it comparing engine blocks of the 5.7L GM and the Hemi. I'm on a second top end rebuild as I type this. Failed lifters, cam wiped. This one after only 5k miles! There should not be a block casting under the camshaft, preventing oil from being slung onto the cam from the crank. It is that simple. I know it, others know it, Dodge knows it. And they know that we know it. Will never purchase another Dodge anything, and I was Mopar for life. The 5.7 in my back up suburban (had to buy since the Dodges are always in my shop being worked on) has 300k miles and I beat it like a yard dog, yet purrs like a kitten. Wife's Journey 3.6L had a fatal head failure. Common problem, even on the 200's. So done, run, run away as fast as you can. Lol.
I just finished making an update video on this issue that addresses some of your concerns. It goes live on Monday! Be sure to check it out, and thank you for watching! 👍
Getting the rpms up is important with a hemi so more oil splashes on the cam and lifters. The lifters are so horizontal that the oil from above drips off them instead on going on the rollers
Dustin I think you are on point. These engines need to spin at 1,500 rpm or more so the windage coming off the crank throws will lubricate the lifter bearings. I keep my 300 is sport mode all the time and rev it bit at long lights. No idling. No problems so far and this is my third 5.7, although I traded one at 40K and the one I have now only has 31K (first I traded at just under 100K).
I would love to agree with your findings, however my 06 hemi with only 125,000 miles took a cap because of this lifter cam issue. This vehicle was taken care of like new born baby. Synthetic 5w20 changed like clockwork at 5000 miles. All tune ups done at proper intervals. It was important this vehicle got me at least 200,000 miles. I was gravely disappointed,as this was a military retirement gift from my wife. Now it sits unusable,can't afford to fix it. Contacted dodge and they blew me off. Will never buy a dodge again.
That is interesting, because it's actually really rare for the '06 models to have lifter failures, that didn't really start to happen until 2009. Have you had the car professionally diagnosed yet, or are you just thinking that's the issue? When is the tick noise present and what makes it better/worse? Is there a Check engine light on? Does it feel like the engine is misfiring at all? Let me know 👍
Bro get some tools do it yourself so sick of people taking cars to stealership
Subscribed. Straight delivery and no begging for likes, gawd I hate that.
Appreciate you watching!
Wow, I expected to see some scoring but that is some pretty extreme wear! Great point about the idling time, especially for people who take their lunch breaks in fleet vehicles idling with the AC on.
Once it wears through the hardened surface of the lobe, the rest of the metal is like butter. Like I said, I've seen a few that have completely round lobes. Hilariously, the customer will say, "it 'just' started making noise!" 😄
@@ReignitedAuto That is a lot of loose metal in that motor. Pray the oil pick up screen and the oil filter catch all that. Yikes.
@@alexdegrat1006 usually the standard is to check the oil control valve screen, if its plugged with metal it gets a whole new bottom end. If the screen is clear you should be 👍
I have a Ram with a 3.6, and it's a great engine, but I find I now need more towing capacity but was hesitant to trade it in for a 5.7. After seeing this, and know that I always change oil at recommended intervals or earlier, I feel better about the idea.
Don't let people steer you wrong, they've been using this engine since 2003 for a reason. 👍
THANK YOU! Thats the best explanation on the Hemi tick I've heard so far. Question.. Is it true that the valve lifters get properly oiled from the oil getting slung off crankshaft 1500 RPMs or more like everybody else is saying?
Thanks for the kind words! As to your question: To an extent. I'm actually making a follow up video to this one that should be out in the next week or two that addresses this issue more fully, so stay tuned for that one! 👍
Sounded more like a commercial for the Hemi's. Oils and better than ever. What other pushrod engines have had lifter failure and galled cams from idling as much as the gen 3 Hemi??
Thank you! This information could save a lot of money.
Also for some reason the metal shavings have been found on the intake manifold, so a good idea is to remove the intake and have them cleaned and reinstalled or those metal partials are going right into the cylinder and that is a VERYVERY BAD ISSUE
This is one of the best videos I've seen on this so far 👍
I appreciate that, thank you 👍
You should look at the video Uncle Tonys garage did.
@@rucus0101 I did
Very informative video. I have a 2015 Ram 1500 with 5.7Hemi. With 91thousand miles. I love the truck. Other than one rear exhaust manifold stud broken off. No issues. I will pay attention to the engine hours. I had my ever sit and idle. I'm retired so I say away from heavy traffic hours.
Appreciate you watching! I also have a video specifically for the broken exhaust bolt repair 👍
Maintenance! Imagine that! I’m sure that using the correct grade of oil, and probably the use of high quality synthetic helps too.
You can probably prolong it a few k but not prevent it. Mds non mds factory recommended oil or synthetic it doesn't matter it will happen
Synthetic has less lubricity than dino oil. Fun fact. As a Dodge district service manager we saw numerous American Axle ring gear failures.
Chrysler and American axle visited our large dealership and said take out synthetic and put in GL4 75w dino oil.
Zero failures after that and we sold 200 trucks a month.
@@tahcogunworks lol why do u guys hide amsoil from the world
My opinion. When the lifter collapses to kill a cylinder the roller leaves the cam lobe on the heel. Then when the lobe comes around the roller slams into the cam which beats up the bearings.
Also a roller bearing does not need much lube at all.
But may be wrong ( as usual lol). Great video either way.
I do believe that has an impact (no pun intended) on why the MDS solenoids fail far more often than the others. Thanks for watching!
I’m an old military guy, without my hearing aids no ticking noise...
Lol.
You won't need hearing aids to figure out when it leaves you on the side of the road.
This guy gets it
I always push the tow haul button (around town) so all 8 cylinders are always firing. Also oil changed every 3k as it's H0T in Tucson 9 months a year
So... Mt thoughts - Use a oil additive especially if its high milage. If possible eliminate the mds and put either regular roller lifters or swap the whole roller combo and go back to flat tappet.
I am not sold on the idea that its a design flaw so much as chrystler trying to do too much in saviving gas for the economy. I mean lets face it - its a 5.7, 5.4, etc. its a V8 for crying out loud. why in the h*** would you want to do that to a V8? Its not like you buy a V8 powered vehicle and want to save gas! if you wanted that then there are plenty of mini trucks or FWD cars around!
Just saying.
You're certainly not wrong. To be honest, all of the manufacturers are doing similar things, and the problem is - it's government mandated. The EPA has established MPG numbers that each manufacturer must meet every year as a combination across their lineup, and every year that number goes up. This means that every single year the manufacturers are looking for any and every little bit that can bump up their numbers. I believe the MDS system on the Hemi improves gas mileage less than 8% overall, and that's actually a huge number. I'd agree as well that removing the MDS system seems to correct the issue, in fact, most aftermarket upgrades will do exactly that for this engine. Appreciate the thoughtful reply and more importantly I appreciate you watching!
@@ReignitedAuto I do have a question though. can you just change the mds lifters without changing the can of it has not gone bad yet or giving trouble codes. would that still set off codes if you did nothing to the mds sensors basically tricking the computer into thinking the mds lifters were still there. would that work?
@@ratchetswartz3321 The lifters can be changed without changing the cam, however, in order to swap out the lifters you must also replace the MDS solenoids with block off plugs instead, which are available from the dealer. Unfortunately this will most definitely set a Check Engine light.
@@ratchetswartz3321 lifter failure happens just as much on non mds engines.
@@scr454 very true. however, the mds engines have a known proven flaw. this is the reason for the blog. no cam and lifter should eat it before the engine reaches100000 miles old.
all we are talking about is how to prolong the life of the engine to the point of normal failure.
I put Amsoil Signature in my 2017 Ram with the 5.7. At 49,000 miles so far so good.
The issue is not solely related to the frequency of oil changes and oils breakdown. It’s the distance from the camshaft to crankshaft and the fact that the oil doesn’t reach the lifter rollers at less than 1500rpm or so.
I've heard that a lot, I'd love to see some real data on that. Im not an engineer, just a mechanic 😄
: Mr. reignited thanks for the info you are awesome. Your video is very charismatic, succint and to the point. Not all videographers, in fact most, lack the ability to teach in such a clear and succinct manner.
This is the info I absolutely needed. Two years ago i Lost my 2006 5.7 truck engine to a sucked valve. Being a dodge fan, I bought a 2009 5.7 L truck. Then it started developing a tick that I was very concerned about, but it goes away if I just let the truck warm-up for about two minutes.… Now I am going to go get my exhaust bolts fixed.
As you probably already know just having this knowledge has relieved so much stress about my truck. I am also going to take your advice and preempt any further problems. Again, thank you very much I will be watching your channel in the future. JB
Another great video and explanation.
Thank you 🙏
Personal history with three SBC motors. All had oil changes every 2k miles. All went deep in to the 300k mile range with no major engine work. All sold in running condition, one to my knowledge, still on the road. Regular oil changes is the cheapest maintenance a car guy can put in to a motor. I don't have as many miles on the two Hemi's yet, but I expect the same results with frequent oil changes - ahead of the FCA recommended schedule.
I hate to say it, but it's an often overlooked part of basic maintenance. Engines today work so well that people just flat out forget to service them, because they don't have issues immediately like older engines might have. Appreciate your reply and thank you for watching! 👍
Happened to my 2011 Ram 1500 4x4 with 117k miles. Had to replace the entire long block due to metal shards in the engine from the lobe getting eaten. Had $100 synthetic oil changes at the dealership every 3000 miles. What a waste. Will never buy another Ram again. Oh and I very very very very rarely idle. If I sit for more than five minutes I turn off my engine.
170,000 and no problems,I use amsoil and a better wix filter I am planning on a forged engine build with all the goods . Ram has been a great truck. I matter of fact never had problems with gm or fords trucks but I use amsoil and do my own maintenance.
@@Pickleram unicorn Hemi congrats!
@@littlejohn6694 130k on my 06 charger...i litterally beat the hell out of it. the ''slap shift'' gets used very often, taking it RIGHT up to the 5700 5800 redline or just cap of its power and then shift, constant abuse in winter. 3k oil changes (5-6k kms) with your cheapo penzoil castrol synthetics and a mopar OEM filter (From the Dealer).... (4-5 dollars for an OEM filter....how can you go wrong? Canadian dollars too). No problems yet so?
@@baileyhatfield4273 happy for you 👍🏻
I only use full synthetic in my 2014 challenger. I only drive it on very nice Texas sunny days my mileage proves it only 12,000. Had to argue with dealer about first oil change had the car for 1 year only 2,000 miles on it. Told him the car sits a lot so I want full synthetic ( which I change every year as part of yearly inspection/registration maintenance ).
Never a problem until this year started car very rough idle CEI dealer multiple misfires. Way home engine smoothed out so I drove it a bit hard off/on for about 125 miles CEI went off. Not a problem since. I do have that cold start tick but had that since 2,000 miles
The digital dash display should have a sensor that monitors the camshaft lobe height as it wears prematurely: "WARNING...you now have .480 lift....WARNING...you now have .450 lift...WARNING...you now have .400 lift."
😂😂😂
That would be Chrysler admitting their design flaw and in turn cause a recall of millions of their faulty vehicles.
BOOM (mic drop). This is the definitive answer for us Hemi owners who want high miles, I plan to keep mine a long time. Next topic.
Thanks for watching 👍
Q the drip and splash vs pressure fed thru passages school of thought regarding lubrication of vital engine components.
I absolutely call bullshit on Chrysler "bad oil" BS , take a look at the lifters when you take them out you will see scouring on the the bodys on opposing sides from right bank and left bank, now look at the drain holes in the block casting...they are inches away from the cam so oil is not draining on the cam like a traditional pushrod engine now you will also notice no through holes to the roller in the lifters so basically what you have here is at 1500-2000rpm and up the crankshaft is slinging oil all over the cam lubricating it and the rollers but at low rpm or idle the draining oil is just falling down away from the cam except for a few lucky splatters and the crank obviously isn't spinning fast enough to throw it upwards...thats the issue, what they need to do is update the casting to have a few threaded holes in that oil galley and put in oil squirters for the cam then they could continue to manufacture on their current platform...otherwise they need to scrap it and start over, now from a performance perspective the placement and angle of the lifters being high and wide does have performance benefits,as a matter of fact when Toyota first entered Nascar the blocks they were using operated on a very similar idea allowing more reliable higher rpm valvetrain function but the way Chrysler has made this it desperately needs oil squirters because virtually the only lubricating that's stuff gets is what the crank literally throws at it....I challenge anyone to actually tear one of these down,physically inspect the layout and the cam and lifters then tell me it has anywhere even close to the lubrication it needs...the location of the drain back is the big wtf here, and I kinda question the oil flow going into the top lifter area in the first place as well
I appreciate the informed reply. There's no doubt that in any engine there are design improvements that could be made, i think with any company they will decide what is an acceptable amount of failures before changing a design. In this case the lifter failures are happening to a relatively low percentage of engines, so I don't think they are inclined to update it. I do agree that improvements can be made though 👍
@@ReignitedAuto 👍 absolutely, always room for improvement , as I believe you stated as well it currently appears,based on my experiences, that the higher percentage of failures are coming from county trucks, construction fleets...ECT and thats why I took my time diving into it on the last repair,while I can't really speak for county maintenance I do know the team of one construction fleet that had 2 trucks go down about the same time and they were properly cared for,in my mind I'm thinking what's the difference between how these guys use their vehicle as opposed to a normal everyday person going about their day to day and the big obvious is they idle for hours with their lights running, as I tore into it started to make sense why it seemed to lack lubrication under those circumstances, please take no offense to my initial comment,thanks for the video I hope Chrysler figures this one out before alot of people get really disappointed in an expensive investment.Merry Christmas
I absolutely agree. It's a OCI issue. Plus owners should stop abusing their engines - this is not Formula 1.
finally the truth we knew all along at 8:27
Finally did a trans service. On my 09 at 40k using maxlife full syn. As well as switching to a mobil one rear end oil. She is whisper quiet. And smooth as glass. Maybe I'm lucky. Or my ocd...works. lol.
Excellent and very informative like taking an automotive class 👍👍👍
I can remember as a professional mechanic all the camshaft failures on the 305 Chevrolet engine. My 2011 jeep grand Cherokee does have a tick from the exhaust manifold, which i have seen many times from broken exhaust manifold bolts on the 4.7, and I would have hoped Chrysler would have installed heavier bolts on the 5.7 but evidently they chose to install the same useless bolts.
Yea I can't say that seems like a priority to Chrysler 😄
Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobile 1 etc.
Redline?
By golly, ole Uncle Tony was 100% right. Like you, he also stated that the lifters are positioned more horizontally than other designs, therefore, the oil doesn't flow as well to the lifters during extended idling. The first of 2 videos he made about this had to be close to a year ago, if not longer.
I have to say that it is a physical impossibility for oil to actually break down. Boiled does get dirty that's the truth. Now if your cam is breaking down and your lifters are breaking down there putting case-hardened material into the oil ultimately important to change the oil out of a locked in any High Performance Engine. You're always going to have case-hardened material breaking down off the parts and falling into the oil. Change your oil a lot that is the truth. No High Performance Engine likes to idle that's a fact. The 5.7 is a great motor.
Good video man.. Another reason why I'm old school when it comes to old change. I don't go by milage or what the cluster show me on percentage .I just pull the dipstick. If the oil look alike is getting black I'll go head and do an oil change
Hey guys, I just posted an update video to address some of your comments and to post some new information I found! Check it out here: ua-cam.com/video/8lj4mLhAI4Y/v-deo.html
Never try to kiss the un-wiped ass of the company that you’re trying to suck up to.
@@blueboltstrike6705 now I have that image in my head.....gross
I transport Hazmat and the idle hours are high, but we service the trucks every 60 days of usage. Regardless of brand or engine, they all have gone over 250k miles without opening the engines. We only get rid of them because of California's ever changing emissions laws.
@@e.l.9589 When you idle the engine you have to increase the RPMs so as to maintain combustion temperatures. If you don’t raw fuel gets mixed in with the engine oil. Even diesel an engine oil well decrease the lubricity of engine oil and cause wear and tear in the engine. When I drive around town in stop and go traffic are use the tow haul mode. The owners manual tells me that it increases engine RPMs to maintain proper engine temperature for proper combustion. You either use it or you lose it.
You either stroke it or you smoke it. You rub it for you scrub it. You slide it or you hide it. You smell it or you dealt it.
@@blueboltstrike6705 My 2500 6.4 seems to run above 200°F, and my Transmission stays @ 169°-172°. My work 5500 runs below 200°F, and transmission seems to stay 150's°-160's°. The information that you guys provide has had me cutting down on idling. Location is Southern California, so I never see cold weather. Thanks for all of the information.
Cool info. My 2007 Ram has 104K , miles and it doesnt sit and idle. It has a lot of highway miles, runs great with no noises. It doesn't quite start as easy as my 2018 Challenger with the 5.7 as well. It doesnt start hard but i let it sit w/ the key turned to ON for a few or so seconds before turning the key and its good to go.
It hasnt had any issues with ticking, lifter noise or a bad water pump.
One time when it sat for a while i got a misfire code but reset it and hasnt happened since and dont let it sit that long anymore. Ive used conventional oil in my Ram but started using Synthetic in the Challenger. Maybe ill switch to synthetic in the Ram but dont know its thats a good idea considering the miles on it. I change the oil every 4K.
Ya I wouldn't worry about switching to synthetic. Honestly we don't really see many lifter issues in the pre-09 models, so you should be good 👍
No the problem is lifter angle because mopar raised the cam. Their should be a recall. Your just giving a victim their best odds to go down swinging. Why not tell them to never idle their engines. Same results or to have the cam and lifters changed every 20.000 miles. And in the mean time all that metal is reaking havoc on every lubricated part in the engine. I'm 110% MOPAR and they should recall their fault.
One clarification that a lot of people don't know. A recall can only be applied to a safety issue. If it's just a mechanical issue it's called a technical service bulletin, and there's nothing to force them to do it. Companies will all of the time release a technical service bulletin that explains there's a problem that has come up over time, and here's how to fix it. But they won't pay for it to be done. Recalls as a safety issue are government mandated that the factory pay to fix it.
A clear example of this: The 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Diesel I just rebuilt was making a terrible buzzing noise after shutoff. I found a TSB stating that the 2011 models they found the turbo actuator vacuum line was designed poorly, and needed to be replaced with an updated design to make the noise go away. But I've got to pay for the updated design if I want it.
I've heard a lot about the theory that the raised cam is the issue. I'm not going to disregard it, but I'd really like to see some actual data beyond speculation that's the issue. If I can get some actual numbers that prove that to be the problem I'd be glad to make another video explaining that. 👍
I bought my 09 new. Auto mds. After 6k break in. I switched to syn. So far so good. I just use her for high speed touring in Florida. That's about it.
Sorry, but lifter bearings are weak. Hemi engines production years 2011 to 2015 may potentially have lifter fail before 100K miles. . Lifters have since been revised "different PN" . Lifters fitted from 2016 production have beefier roller needles to countermeasure early life failure.
I have a 17, lifters failed at 95k miles with routine oil changes every 3k miles.
@@TM-to3jc may depend on part number on your installed ones. Odd to hear a 2017/with seized roller typically found with AA ones. 2016 lifter roller design did change to AB albeit from same supplier. Perhaps that’s why supplier was changed after 2016/2017 which also changed lifter PN to AC. Interesting.
Had the same thing in my 2010 around 240,000km got the truck as is from a dealer thinking it was just plugs or wires turned out that 2 of the lifters Seized and war them cam down to almost to a perfect circle.
Bummer!
The issue is that the MDS lifters only receives oil once MDS is activated. Otherwise they only rely on splash. Remove the mds solenoid and replace the lifters with non
mds lifters.
Great video..and such a novel idea.. a mechanic actually wearing gloves while working on the engine!😉
😄
I love my 5.7 hemi i think it is the best hemi Chrysler has ever made and I been working on them for 50 years and had all the motors they ever made and my rt hemi is the best car I ever bought
They are a riot to drive aren't they? Thanks for watching!
Unless other engines have the same problem from idling a lot, the Hemi does have a fatal flaw.
They don’t.
LSs on Caprice Pursuits idle all the time. They aren’t eating lifters.
@@Bartonovich52 i watched a video a while ago (I can't find the link) from a guy who works alot on LS engine, he was working on one that had a similar issue he was saying that it was common on all the LS engine with cylinder deactivation. I haven't heard as much about LS engine but the guy seemed to know what he was talking about. It really seems like its a cylinder deactivation issue.
It is a fatal flaw. Face it, a roller lifter should never fail with any regularity. It is a lubrication issue caused from lack of oil on the needles and rollers.
2012 5.7 HEMI REBUILD UPDATE
I have a 2012 Dodge Charger 5.7 HEMI pursuit that I use for TxDOT Freeway/interstate off duty in Texas. As you might guess, I idle most of the shift 6-14 hours.
1 year ago approximately; my lifters failed on my engine @ about 150k. (Previous lifter/cam replacement prior to me purchasing this vehicle @ 75k miles)
I had the engine rebuilt with the HEMI HELLCAT oil pump, HELLCAT lifters, and the rest of the engine rebuilt as well. As mentioned, my idle PSI (5w20 FS) was approximately 45-55 psi from 20-25psi previously.
It’s been a year and 2 months 14k miles. I changed the oil every 2-3 months, Penzoil Platinum FS 5w20.
And I experiencing lifter failure AGAIN. This time, 95% piston 1 (MDS).
The rest have rare and occasional misfires. At idle and in motion it sounds like a lawnmower.
I’m saving every penny for the coming rebuild and repair I know I will have to do AGAIN.
I should repair it ASAP, but I literally cannot afford the 4-6k it will cost. I MIGHT be able to get it down to 3k, if I shop around.
I am very very very frustrated and disappointed. Previous to this, lifters lasted 75k miles approximately. This time, they lasted 15k!!!
I am at a complete loss, I have no explanations or theories other than maybe higher pressure oil burns up faster and needs to be changed more frequently. Maybe if I changed the oil every month it would have been different.
For anyone thinking it will fix this issue, there are obviously other variables at play and the low pressure oil pump appears to be a correlation to lifter failure.
I don’t think it can be said at this point, oil PSI is the CAUSE, not yet anyways.
On Uncle Tony's Garage he tore a Gen 3 Hemi apart before it had lifter problems and just looked for signs of wear.
Then he compared two different blocks where only one of them was a Gen 3.
I think he has the best video on the so called lifter problem because he did the most research.
I have a new video with more information about the oil flow and lifter design if you want to check it out, link is in the pinned comment at the top! 👍
Nice video dude 👍, much better explanation than the uncle Tony guy
Much appreciated my man, and thank you for watching! 👍
if you don't do an oil analysis there is no proof of this.
@@patmanz28 proof of what, common sense?
Thank goodness for the Internet where all if this can come to light. No way I'd spend 50K on a Challenger Scatpack, etc. A failure at 15,000 miles - unreal. Good video by the way -- well done and delivered.
Appreciate you watching, and I found additional info as well, check it my latest video, link is in the pinned comment at the top! 👍