Great job on the video! I enjoyed watching and even learned what the cold cranking amps portion of the screen was lol been using these for 40 years and never really paid attention to that.
Great review Chuck, thanks! I've been thinking of picking one up for a while now. I bought a cheap electronic one from Amazon, but I've always liked these simple analog testers.
Right on Rob, Thanks for watching. The Digital Electronic, and Analog Battery Testers BOTH have their Pros & Cons. Just wait until you see next Sunday's video. lol -Chuck
This message is for Forrest. I can see the notification for your comment, but when I click on it, it's gone. You bring up a great point. That's one good thing about the Costco Warranty. They do not test batteries for warranty claims period. Bring back the battery with receipt, and they will give you a "cash" refund faster than you can say "$1.50 Hot Dog & Soda Lunch". lol -Chuck
I have had a load tester like this for about 4 years but recently I have started to think that it doesn't provide enough of a load to give the full indication of the battery status. It puts out a 100A load and it will identify a battery that is really in poor shape. But i think what is needed is one of those carbon pile testers that load the battery up to say least 50% of the CCA. I have a battery that was giving a lazy start.. I charged it and then 100A load tested and it showed fine (I e.. In the green at the CCA) and then 3 days later lazy start again.. Voltage shows 12.8.. It never used to do this and I have been trickle/float charging weekly. So this time I measured/video recorded the voltage under a full engine start and saw the voltage drop to below 8V... I actually had the battery tested at the auto shop and they also confirmed the battery was dying.
Right on PCP, Thanks for watching. I think you are 100% correct with your battery diagnosis. For $20 I have no complaints with the 100AMP limitation of this device. I just did a quick search for the least expensive Carbon Pile Load Tester from a reputable brand. It looks like it will be the one from Associated Equipment for $157; www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V5JTPI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21M8JQ0I9SF78&psc=1 - But I have a feeling that might be out of the budget for simple DIYer’s like you, and I. Maybe a $30-$50 Digital Electronic Battery Tester would offer more insight at a better value, and price point. Here’s a video where I compare the two devices, (Electronic vs. Analog) on a brand new Costco battery; ua-cam.com/video/P_qy8SNBJcA/v-deo.html - My favorite part of the video is where I put a non contact amp clamp on the analog tester to see the actual amp draw of the claimed 100AMP capability, (it was only 96) close enough. Lol The battery is only one third of the our car’s starting system. It would be nice to perform some voltage drop tests on the power & ground cables from the battery to the starter for high resistance. Also a performance test of the starter itself just to confirm & verify. Chuck
@@frankmontez6853 The electronic battery testers used by auto parts stores & dealerships are commercial / industrial, and usually cost $1,000 or more. Way above the price range on an average DIY. Back in the day they were made by a comapany called Midtronics. -Chuck
Before using the device, make sure it is reading zero, before connecting to battery. The device is fairly accurate, but only if it starts at zero. If it is under, or over, zero, your measurement will be off by that amount.
I always change my battery after three years. As a civil service worker forced to work during state of emergency’s and storms I just can’t afford to lose an easy pay day.. I mean overtime shift. I’m also the same guy who carries a battery jumper and fuels whenever my tank is at half. So take that as you will. Lol.
Right on Ramen, This is a perfect topic for a collaboration I've been wanting to do for a while now. "Emergency Roadside Kit" I want to show the things I store in the trunk to deal with roadside emergencies. Would you be willing film a video, and join in? -Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform ur killing me I’ve always wanted to be a UA-camr. My best advice in a roadside kit is number one an air inflator. I can’t tell you how many people I run into as a DOT worker whose job is to keep the highways flowing have ZERO air pressure in the spare. So if you get a flat and have a spare with no air? Ur done !!! Check ur air pressure every six month on the spare !! And for Gm and pick up truck drivers. Drop ur spare every season. They get rusted and stuck up. You don’t want to realize ur spare is stuck and rusted when ur on the side of a highway !!
Chuck, A nice review on this battery load tester. This is another item to put on my shopping list the next time that I go to Harbor Freight. When doing a load test on a battery, do you suggest removing the battery cables from the battery so that any parasitic draw won't be factored in?
Right on Frank, I just re-read the owner's manual, and I don't think it matters. However, whenever I'm checking "my" batteries I prefer to completely remove them from the the car so I can. 1.) Clean the battery posts. 2.) Clean the car's battery terminal clamps. 3.) Wipe down the battery of any dirt, or fluid leakage. 4.) Visually inspect all 7 sides of the battery for cracks, or other signs of damage. 5.) Vacuum out any leaves, or debris from the battery tray. 6.) Have better lighting when checking the water levels. -Chuck
Great video, the only problem is you should be pulling half of the CCA value from the battery. So if it's 500 CCA battery you should be pulling 250 amps, so that tester is not enough.
First off , starter was having trouble starting right up last week . Took it to trusted mechanic and he checked it and fell below 10 volts sho he said replace it . used one which was hardly used ( not new ) and still had same starter problems . Got this tester and tested both and yeah the first one failed miserly under load though in charging test looked good . Load test went all the way to ZERO . Second one charging test looked 13 volts so did load test it was just under 11 volts . Anyway bought a cheap ' value " WM battery and in parking lot tried jumping tfrom it to one still in car . Still had problems . Letting new one quick charge with 6 AMP charger for half an hour though it read just barely in green . This tester supposed to test starter too . Is it good for that ?
Right on Frank, Thanks for watching. Yes, in theory this can test the starter, and alternator, but a digital voltmeter will be more accurate, and easier to read. So I would only recomend this $20 tester to load test batteries. -Chuck
I have read others say that so long as you have 12 v, that is enough to test with that load tester. Did you do any actual test or comparisons regarding that issue ?
Yo Carb, Thanks for stopping in. The battery must be fully recharged to get accurate results from any load tester. That why they invented the non load electronic testers. They can be accurate without fully recharging, so they save 8-12 hours of time. -Chuck
wondering if you can use this device with the car battery connected in the car while doing a load test with the centech? OR should you disconnect the positive side of the battery and then do the load test?
Test it by clipping it to your ear lobe and tongue at the same time . Test it by clipping it to your ear lobe and tongue at the same time . wait did i repeat my self sorry i tried it and i tend to get a lil shock repeat syndrome my bad chuck . lol
Right on Asgard, Thanks for watching. Depepending on how discharged the battery is, that may work. Alternators are designed not so much to "charge" a battery but to "maintain" a fully charged battery. Asking for too much out of your alternator may shorten its life, or even damage it. -Chuck
Great job on the video! I enjoyed watching and even learned what the cold cranking amps portion of the screen was lol been using these for 40 years and never really paid attention to that.
Thanks for watching.
-Chuck
Great review Chuck, thanks! I've been thinking of picking one up for a while now. I bought a cheap electronic one from Amazon, but I've always liked these simple analog testers.
Right on Rob,
Thanks for watching.
The Digital Electronic, and Analog Battery Testers BOTH have their Pros & Cons.
Just wait until you see next Sunday's video. lol
-Chuck
This message is for Forrest.
I can see the notification for your comment, but when I click on it, it's gone.
You bring up a great point.
That's one good thing about the Costco Warranty.
They do not test batteries for warranty claims period.
Bring back the battery with receipt, and they will give you a "cash" refund faster than you can say "$1.50 Hot Dog & Soda Lunch". lol
-Chuck
0:10 no - you have zero credibility LOL Seriously, you have more credibility than anyone else on UA-cam!!
Awww c'mon.
6:11 that coffee mug with the Texas flag tho. Lol love both u guys
I have had a load tester like this for about 4 years but recently I have started to think that it doesn't provide enough of a load to give the full indication of the battery status. It puts out a 100A load and it will identify a battery that is really in poor shape. But i think what is needed is one of those carbon pile testers that load the battery up to say least 50% of the CCA. I have a battery that was giving a lazy start.. I charged it and then 100A load tested and it showed fine (I e.. In the green at the CCA) and then 3 days later lazy start again.. Voltage shows 12.8.. It never used to do this and I have been trickle/float charging weekly. So this time I measured/video recorded the voltage under a full engine start and saw the voltage drop to below 8V... I actually had the battery tested at the auto shop and they also confirmed the battery was dying.
Right on PCP,
Thanks for watching.
I think you are 100% correct with your battery diagnosis.
For $20 I have no complaints with the 100AMP limitation of this device.
I just did a quick search for the least expensive Carbon Pile Load Tester from a reputable brand. It looks like it will be the one from Associated Equipment for $157; www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003V5JTPI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21M8JQ0I9SF78&psc=1
-
But I have a feeling that might be out of the budget for simple DIYer’s like you, and I. Maybe a $30-$50 Digital Electronic Battery Tester would offer more insight at a better value, and price point. Here’s a video where I compare the two devices, (Electronic vs. Analog) on a brand new Costco battery; ua-cam.com/video/P_qy8SNBJcA/v-deo.html
-
My favorite part of the video is where I put a non contact amp clamp on the analog tester to see the actual amp draw of the claimed 100AMP capability, (it was only 96) close enough. Lol
The battery is only one third of the our car’s starting system. It would be nice to perform some voltage drop tests on the power & ground cables from the battery to the starter for high resistance. Also a performance test of the starter itself just to confirm & verify.
Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform which is the one used by Auto Zone ? Looks like a much more expensive modern tester full of electronics. I'll look at your links.
@@frankmontez6853
The electronic battery testers used by auto parts stores & dealerships are commercial / industrial, and usually cost $1,000 or more. Way above the price range on an average DIY. Back in the day they were made by a comapany called Midtronics.
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform yeah waay above what we can afford . First thought it was a couple hundred but looks way above that even
Great video! And jeez that VAT-40 looks menacing
Right on Connor,
It does look like something that could reanimate Frankenstein. lol
-Chuck
Good review chuck, I might get one after I finish my endless repairs on my 07 mgm
Right on Mr. Bahrain,
Thanks for stopping in.
-Chuck
Before using the device, make sure it is reading zero, before connecting to battery. The device is fairly accurate, but only if it starts at zero. If it is under, or over, zero, your measurement will be off by that amount.
Right on George,
Thanks for watching, and the good feedback.
-Chuck
I always change my battery after three years. As a civil service worker forced to work during state of emergency’s and storms I just can’t afford to lose an easy pay day.. I mean overtime shift. I’m also the same guy who carries a battery jumper and fuels whenever my tank is at half. So take that as you will. Lol.
Right on Ramen,
This is a perfect topic for a collaboration I've been wanting to do for a while now.
"Emergency Roadside Kit"
I want to show the things I store in the trunk to deal with roadside emergencies.
Would you be willing film a video, and join in?
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform ur killing me I’ve always wanted to be a UA-camr. My best advice in a roadside kit is number one an air inflator. I can’t tell you how many people I run into as a DOT worker whose job is to keep the highways flowing have ZERO air pressure in the spare. So if you get a flat and have a spare with no air? Ur done !!! Check ur air pressure every six month on the spare !! And for Gm and pick up truck drivers. Drop ur spare every season. They get rusted and stuck up. You don’t want to realize ur spare is stuck and rusted when ur on the side of a highway !!
Great review.👍 I purchased 2 of them to keep one for a spare.🙂
Right on Bob,
Thanks for watching.
For $20 they're hard to beat. lol
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform
I totally agree.🙂
Chuck,
A nice review on this battery load tester. This is another item to put on my shopping list the next time that I go to Harbor Freight. When doing a load test on a battery, do you suggest removing the battery cables from the battery so that any parasitic draw won't be factored in?
Right on Frank,
I just re-read the owner's manual, and I don't think it matters.
However, whenever I'm checking "my" batteries I prefer to completely remove them from the the car so I can.
1.) Clean the battery posts.
2.) Clean the car's battery terminal clamps.
3.) Wipe down the battery of any dirt, or fluid leakage.
4.) Visually inspect all 7 sides of the battery for cracks, or other signs of damage.
5.) Vacuum out any leaves, or debris from the battery tray.
6.) Have better lighting when checking the water levels.
-Chuck
Great video, the only problem is you should be pulling half of the CCA value from the battery. So if it's 500 CCA battery you should be pulling 250 amps, so that tester is not enough.
Right on 404,
Thanks for stopping in.
For $20 this little guy is pulling his weight. lol
-Chuck
It seems the scale on the meter is made to compensate for the different battery CCA's using the same amp draw for the test.
First off , starter was having trouble starting right up last week . Took it to trusted mechanic and he checked it and fell below 10 volts sho he said replace it . used one which was hardly used ( not new ) and still had same starter problems . Got this tester and tested both and yeah the first one failed miserly under load though in charging test looked good . Load test went all the way to ZERO . Second one charging test looked 13 volts so did load test it was just under 11 volts . Anyway bought a cheap ' value " WM battery and in parking lot tried jumping tfrom it to one still in car . Still had problems . Letting new one quick charge with 6 AMP charger for half an hour though it read just barely in green . This tester supposed to test starter too . Is it good for that ?
Right on Frank,
Thanks for watching.
Yes, in theory this can test the starter, and alternator, but a digital voltmeter will be more accurate, and easier to read.
So I would only recomend this $20 tester to load test batteries.
-Chuck
I have read others say that so long as you have 12 v, that is enough to test with that load tester. Did you do any actual test or comparisons regarding that issue ?
Yo Carb,
Thanks for stopping in.
The battery must be fully recharged to get accurate results from any load tester.
That why they invented the non load electronic testers. They can be accurate without fully recharging, so they save 8-12 hours of time.
-Chuck
wondering if you can use this device with the car battery connected in the car while doing a load test with the centech? OR should you disconnect the positive side of the battery and then do the load test?
Yes, you can test either way.
Here are the instructions;
manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/61000-61999/61747-193175054432.pdf
-Chuck
Test it by clipping it to your ear lobe and tongue at the same time . Test it by clipping it to your ear lobe and tongue at the same time . wait did i repeat my self sorry i tried it and i tend to get a lil shock repeat syndrome my bad chuck . lol
Right on Reaper. Lol
That's not a bad price, assuming it would be that here too.
Right on Josh,
Thanks for stopping by.
For $20, I'm glad I got one before the price goes up.
-Chuck
@@PanzerPlatform I hope it doesn't I might want one
@@midwestpanther98
Think long, think wrong. Lol
Why not just drive the car for a bit to charge up the battery. Worked for me.
Right on Asgard,
Thanks for watching.
Depepending on how discharged the battery is, that may work.
Alternators are designed not so much to "charge" a battery but to "maintain" a fully charged battery.
Asking for too much out of your alternator may shorten its life, or even damage it.
-Chuck