BestChoice Jeep Complete Weelye esc wiring walk thru with 12v to 24v conversion for any kids ride-on
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- Best Choice Jeep wiring Walk Thru Explanation P1
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QUICK REFERENCE:
01:15 - 12V Setup
06:50 - Steering
07:34 - Pedal
0830 - Shifter
09:00 - Power Button
09:30 - Hi/Low
12:20 - 24v Required Parts
13:55 - Installing 24v Parts
24:10 - 24v/12v Regulator Install
35:00 - Completed 24v conversion Harness
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Best Choice Products (BCP) Jeep Wiring Walk Thru
This Video explains the Weelye stock RX-19 12v ESC Wiring Harness and upgrade to
Weelye RX30 24v ESC. (including voltage regulator to keep stock 12v accessories)
Video Starts with the Stock Weelye RX-19 ESC and wiring Harness Explanation. This is the 12v 2 motor port ESC very similar to the to weelye 24v RX-30. Most people that upgrade will only have the single motor port ESC which is fine.
Parts Used in this Video:
-Weelye RX-19 with Complete wiring harness
-Weelye RX-30
-On/Off switch
-Hi/Low Switch
-Shifter F/S/R
-Foot Pedal
-2 x 12v Batteries
-24v to 12v regulator
Parts List Needed for 24v Upgrade:
-Weelye RX-30
-Hi/Low Switch
-24v Gearboxes w/motors
-2 x 12v Batteries
-1 24v to 12v Regulator (only 1 needed, NOT needed for steering servo)
Steering servo fix video:
• Best Choice Jeep Steer...
7 Pin Lipo Harness:
Https://a.co/d/4QN6WRQ
24V550 18000RPM Gearbox w/Motors
a.co/d/dIqgVdE
(ideal for upgrading)
24V550 30000RPM Gearbox w/Motors
a.co/d/a8DEFRY
(may have loss of torque on steep inclines but should have higher top end)
WEELYE 2 Pcs hi/low Switch
a.co/d/gjHj9gO
24v Charger w/auto charge feature
a.co/d/aUiU4AD
I used 12v MightyMax as additional Battery to run 24v. 12v x 2 in Series;
Battery size slot 1 fits:12v 9ah (stock)
Battery size slot 2 fits:12v 10ah-12ah
a.co/d/j7oaBkI
Weeyle RX30 ESC controller
a.co/d/1D8vxqD
Regulator 6 Pack LM2596
a.co/d/64u8iPb
On 24v Weelye RX30 if converting from stock 12v steering servo motor, the polarity is reversed so flip the wires to get it steering the right way. (Steering will be much more snappy with 24v just a heads up) a voltage regulator can be used. When installing the motors, make sure the wheels spin in the same direction. Before soldering the motors exactly as the stock gearboxs had them, check to see if there spinning the same direction, so check it before you finish. You also need to get a mini 24v to 12v regulator on Amazon 6pack is $10. Any 12v electronics that come stock or that you add should run thru one. I did this and forgot to test it and it burnout my custom rollbar lights. Also vehicles equipped with a Weelye 24v come with a hi/low switch which i would install to have a 2nd speed.
*Note:
If you have a 12v ESC and are upgrading to 24v you need to setup your battery voltage to output 24v with a 2nd 12v battery ran in series, other wise this ESC wont perform the way you want or not at all. You also need a 24v charger but one can be had at amazon for cheap.
*The motors on these gearboxs are stock and are cheap. You can always upgrade to a better quality 550 size motor or longer 570 with a bit more torque and it should bolt up to the stock or aftermarket gearboxes. 775s style motors will not fit in these gearboxes.
Weelye RX30 24v ESC Pin out
Pin#1 - hi/low ( - )
Pin#2 - Reverse to ( - )
Pin#3 - Forward to ( - )
Pin#4 - Ground (also used to connect to Pedal for pins 2+3 on Shifter and hi/low switch)
Pin#5 - not used
Pin#6 - 24v switched power in(+)
Pin#7 - 24v power out (+)
Heres a folder of some wiring pics and Diagrams that may assist you if needed for my jeeps:
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photos.app.goo...
*POST PICS OF YOUR RIDE HERE for troubleshooting or just to share:
photos.app.goo...
Some other 18v and 24v projects:
BCP Jeep Rear Axle Replacement
• BestChoice Jeep Bent/B...
24v Conversion Jeep in action
• Best Choice Products P...
Arctic Cat UTV - • Project Arctic Cat Con...
Brute Force Quad w/ Weelye RX30- • Video
*don't forget to like and subscribe!
I've gone down about 12 rabbit holes on this project and this is my favorite video thus far. Very well explained. You're saving fathers around the country lots of time. Thank you.
You're right about the rabbit holes on these things. I just need a how to and a parts list and it's been so difficult to find.
Somehow, even with this excellent tutorial I still managed to spend about 20 hours on this project before claiming success. I've learned I'm not good at soldering, and to check a fuse instead of buying a new multimeter thinking the cheap harbor freight one was broken when no voltage was going to the 30 rx unit. Thanks for taking the time and putting this together.
Thank you
Bought all the stuff to replace a dead battery in my kids powerwheels jeep (or so I thought)... only to realize it had this type of harness and control module. I wish youtube had given this video in my search earlier, you just saved me a ton of time not having to figure out the harness! Thanks so much for this!
Glad it help!
My daughter's jeep had the led 2 speed shifter and the circuit board went out. I purchased a basic Fwd Rev shifter but had no clue how to wire it till I found this vid. Great job thanks!
This was exactly what I have been looking for! Thank you for the great video and layout.
Thank you so much for your help, I found an old buggy type car on the verge that was left out in the elements for years and with your precise instructions I managed to get it going with a new wiring harness off amazon and a lot of disassembly and assembly
learning as I went along and now a piece of junk is now going to find a new home for a little one somewhere. so greetings from Mandurah in Western Australia Stay safe and well.
That's awesome great work feel free to post a pic/video in the Google Photos link
Thank you for your reply, I would like to get the lights going on this car, is there a replacement item for either the globe or the light that could be ordered on line somewhere, many thanks.
I just realised my little car is similar to the one on your video thumbnail, but black and white, cheers.
@@Max46423 what light are you referring ?
Sorry the little front headlights, round shape
Anyone have an issue with the push button becoming hot? Did this exact conversion, running the regulator in between outgoing power from power button and radio/lights. Wires all feel fine, just push button seems a bit hotter than it should. Tsgraphics thank you for this vid! Gave me the confidence to do the conversion. Daughters expression was priceless!
I've haven't heard of this but you can always swap it out for a better built one or one that has a higher voltage rating
Mine didn’t have the hi/lo in it and the wiring coming from the controller seemed a lot different than your setup. It wasn’t as “cut and play” so I ended up just buying the whole upgrade kit on Amazon with the correct wiring components. I’m sure I could follow each of the wires but that just seems like trouble waiting to happen as I’m a rookie when it comes to electrical. Thanks for posting this. It was very helpful either way
I purchased mines in 2022 it has the parental remote control too. I don’t have the hi/lo either. And my on/off switch is wired different from the video. Theirs three prongs from the on/off switch.
I just really need to know what to cut and splice.
1st red wire going to module.
2nd set white going to module. Red to radio. Thick Red to head/rear light switch.
3rd set 4-black wires going to lights and radio, 1 brown going to fed/rev.
* I imagine I have to intercept the red to radio and red to light switch.
And intercept the 4 blacks to lights and radio.
Bin searching for ages for s wire harness like this because the electronic regulator on the existing is shot. Today I found the wire harness on AliExpress and this video on UA-cam. I guess it's my lucky day and the complete set is 24V not like the original 12V. The only be thing what I didn't consider is that I actually need the 12V for the radio and lights. Lucky for me I watched this video now I only need to find the additional resistor. But now I know what to search for and I can also check on Amazon and eBay. Thanks for the great video 👍.
No problem, glad this helped. Any questions just ask
This is a solid vid, nice job man!
This is crazy!! 45 min video? I feel like I need an electrical engineering degree for this!
I feel that bro
Its a full walkthru reason its 45min. also in the description are time stamps if your looking for a specific part. Most people don't understand the function of the rideon system, this explains the parts, what they do and why. So for installations and troubleshooting this is good base knowledge.
Very helpful video which helped me to wire my RX37! Very much appreciated!
This is amazing, thank you so much for the info!
Thank you! Detailed explanation.. I want to commend you!
Hi my friend and Thank You so much for this video, my upgrade went pretty well because of this video. I only have one question and that Is driving me crazy, now my son's jeep is a bit faster then I was thinking and tried hooking up the yellow wire as you directed and it seems to slow down a little but not as much as i would like. I have tried installing a PWM so i can turn down the speed to the motors and this worked perfected. However doing this caused him not to be able to go in revers for some reason and lost his gas pedal. So the way i have wired up the pwm was taking the wire that plugs into the motor port on the rx30 and cutting it now putting quick disconnect on the two ends one going into the rx30 port then wire into the pwm input. next running out of the pwm connecting directly to the wires going to the motors. like i said this worked perfectly i was able to slow down the jeep but I no longer had gas pedal function or reverse. Any tips to help with this would be greatly appreciated .. Thanks a million again you are a life saver for sure not mention a mentor to many!
PWM is a one way feed usually. The rx-30 reverses the polarity of the motors for reverse. Maybe search and see if there is a model PWM that will also sense the switching polarity when switching to reverse. Otherwise I'd just remove it
Fantastic demo how things work,gold star rating
Off topic question, I noticed your sweatshirt is the same color and has the same tag on the sleeve as my FR hoodies I got from the utility where I did my apprenticeship. You by chance a fellow lineman or do some other high voltage work? You obviously know your way around electrical circuits more than the average DIYer also, so I had to ask.. Great video by the way, super thorough..
Very possible i have utilitiy experience. also low voltage 6v-24v from younger years w/cctv, fire/burg, car and boat stereo and lighting.
Ours has all the grounds go to the on/off switch, then the ground out from on/off switch goes to the high/low, then high/low to the module
Truly a great video. I did the conversion today step by step watching this. I had to make a couple tweaks but would have never figured it out without you. One thing, when the car had two kids in it, something is overheating and the auto resetting. I’m guessing it is the auto fuse I left in place. Any idea what size I should replace this with?
@@JoshHowman the fuse is the to protect. Chances are with 2 kids depending on weight the motors may be straining cause the trip. The lower rpm motors have more torque but less top end speed. This might be a fix for you. Other wise you other options are increase to a 570 size motor for a bit motor torque and size and or roll the dice and up the fuse size. This all being said, I assume it works fine with one kid?
@@Neonjer11 Yes sir works great with 1 child. I didn't mention, I have the 12V motors in it still. I figured I might as well burn them up before I swap in the 24V motors. Do you think that could be causing the over amp?
@@JoshHowman that's your issue then 12v motor are probably stressing as your overvolting and add weight
Probably really fast too but it won't last long just fyi
Any way to fix the accelerator so it doesn’t insta stop when you let off?
Yes you can use a capacitor near each motor. That should help
You really went all out on this! You sir, are the GOAT. I know we spoke of how the forward/reverse lever works off of grounds, but when I first hooked up 24v without the regulator it seemed to have burned up the Forward/reverse switch but only one polarity not both ways. I've replaced it now and currently running at 12v until I complete the upgrade and is working. My question is, is there anyway it could have actually burned it out? It was working fine before I fried everything haha. I think that's where some confusion came on upgrading it for me when looking at the other video/pictures as I saw no connection to the lever from regulator. If it only works off of grounds is there something I'm missing? I will hook everything up like you did when I get the time, but I don't want to ruin another lever and have to keep my daughter waiting even longer haha. Thank you for the time you've put into this I really appreciate it, you've done an awesome job. Seeing the harness out and the connection of the regulator answered all questions about the placement immediately. Now I'm just unsure of burning out the forward/reverse again, though if I do it's not like they are very expensive.
@Frank Torrano I think you'll be fine. You maybe over thinking it. I tried to explain how the wires interact with the ESC for knowledge, hoping not to confuse anyone. Follow the layout and you should be fine.
Great info, great video! Thanks!
Awesome video!! Question- Has anyone tried this with lithium batteries??
yes but it is recommend to keep the voltage based on you type for the ESC ex: 24v for the RX30
@@Neonjer11 gotcha, thanks! I plan on trying this upgrade very soon
Exactly what I was looking to do to re-assure myself in my planning of my project. we took the exact same approach. Do you mind updating the amazon links? I cant decide on a 24v charger. I did upgrade the wiring from battery to ESC/controller and from ESC/controller to motors for less voltage drop.
I'll check it out
Very nice video
Wonderful instructions
Im sure this was asked already but so many comments. is there a list of parts and the vendor anywhere below. thank you
Good to know about the 12v for the radio and lights. If the radio is upgraded to 24v, will the lights still need to be on 12v? Had anyone put the lights and radio on a separate battrey?
ya anything is possible. video is for best and simplest install hange over. still need 12v unless you upgrade those too. I'm sure amazon has 24v leds. separate battery is possible but then extra switches and wires plus I recommend small battery to reduce the weight if separating the lights
Want to do this upgrade but nervous about all the lighting I've added. I think I'm gonna try adding a 18v milwaukee battery to run the motors and then keep the 12v battery to power my rollbar, strobe lights, rock lights and radio. After repainting and adding as many lights as I did to my godsons jeep I'd hate to ruin them!
18v will do the same just not as fast if you dont add a voltage regulator your 12v electronics will break, they are made for 12v. When you see people add a drill battery thats 18v, usually they won't have any esc or electronics that are 12v. There rides are pretty much direct to the motors. No bells and whistles. Hope I explained this ok. Good luck with your mod. Any questions just ask
@@Neonjer11 thanks for the reply! I've been thinking and maybe I will use a step down converter and plug the 12v power and ground into a fused distribution block. Then all my lighting will be fused and 12v and it saves me from using multiple converters.
@@jamieplourde3782 ya sounds like a good plan voltage regulator is key to not damaging your 12v electronics
@@Neonjer11 I forgot I have the power distribution block in place already. My godsons only 2.5 and doesn't go out at night but his jump his lit for anything and everything!
Just got a 12v Jeep for my daughter and want to do this mod and more :)
This is a great tutorial but the wiring pics and diagram link is broken. Any chance you could fix it please?
Ok link updated just add yourself to the folder and you'll be good
I need a Video ,to go from Rinky Dink Remote to Hobby Grade..aka, I wanna control the car, from 1 mile away,around corners.n without my Presence
Why does the switch need to have 24volts going to it? Couldn't you put the volt reducer on the red and black wires coming from the controller?
Great video! Best I have seen for this yet! I have the Best Choice Jeep and also the Costco Green Sand Dune one that I am going to upgrade to use some Ryobi 18V batteries. Have you had any experience with running the 18v through the RX30? I am assuming if I run it through the current controller it will burn it up since it is 12v...but wasn't sure if the 24v controller would accept the lower voltage without any problems. I am not too concerned about the parental control anymore or the steering.
Some, not me have said it works
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for the quick reply. I figure it has to work better than sending 18vDC through the 12vDC controller. Again great video!
@@gulfstream5az Hey Jason, if you tried and/or got an answer, I would appreciate. My sons got 2 jeep with a 12V controller and I happen to have a lot of Ryobi 18V packs, taht would be ideal but I'm still trying to think what would be the best way. I think you are right sending 18V to the controller might fry up everything (12V for lights, MP3 etc AND the steering motor)... Let me know, I would appreciate. Thanks !
@@Avtomav any updates on this? I just bought two 18v ryobi battery adapters for my daughters BC Jeep. I bought all 24v upgrades (motors, RX30/etc and a speed controller), and am hoping the 18v batteries will power the 24v components without any issues. I'm only really concerned about the 12v lights/radio stuff but Ive heard it shouldnt burn anything up. But a regulator may be a good precaution...
@@dham99 unfortunately, the 18V Ryobi are great for a PWM controller but for 24V controller, the Ryobi aren't useful.. you should use 2 Mighty Max 12V batteries in serie.
I purchased mines in 2022 it has the parental remote control too. I don’t have the hi/lo either. And my on/off switch is wired different from the video. Theirs three prongs from the on/off switch.
I just really need to know what to cut and splice.
1st red wire going to module.
2nd set white going to module. Red to radio. Thick Red to head/rear light switch.
3rd set 4-black wires going to lights and radio, 1 brown going to fed/rev.
* I imagine I have to intercept the red to radio and red to light switch.
And intercept the 4 blacks to lights and radio.
Ya anything that's still getting 12v needs to off the regulator
Is there a way to just directly connect the battery to the shifter, peddle and motor
Hi I don’t know if I can do this and I thought I would ask you since your the best teacher I’ve seen on this topic. I have a power wheel and I am trying to do a ryobi 40V conversion. My question to you is can I add a ryobi 40V convertion + a voltage regulator to step down to 24V + a remote control box. Will this be too much for the harness or can I do it? If I can, could you do a video of all that or explain the order starting from the battery…
I am not 100% sure but I assume you can step down the voltage to 24v if you get the right step-down regulator. Some people have had successfully done this but I am not sure of the parts used. Good.luck
Great details on the video with explanation. I have an electronic 12/24vdc controller on the kidszone jeep my granddaughter uses. JR1927M-Z. Is there a harness/ kit that interfaces with that controller and remote. I’ve already purchased the 24v 30000 rpm motors/gearbox. Thanks
Remember the 30,000 rpm motors at top end will be faster but you will lose some torque depends on weight of child and terrain on how much it will affect start speed
Amazon has Weelye kits that include every part included a harness but none with just a harness only. Tho you can get the Lipo pin Harness as listed in the description
Yes. Been 2 years in the making and them here u come to show me just about all I was needing. The thing I'm needing to know is I'm gonna use the rx-30 on a 4x4 system. Will 24v 22ah battery be enough? Plus the premade wire harness that comes with the rx-30 and 4x4 setup doesnt gave the radio and light pig tails. I theory I should be able to wire the 12 reg somewhere into the power switch to when the switch is on its providing power to the regulator and onto the accessory? Does that sound correct to anyone. I dont wanna fry any control boards or solder anymore blown capacitors. Lol. Had one blow off the board and put a hole right in the case. Replaced the 330uf and bam. Back rolling. Board has a over draw problem tho and that's why I'm changing everything out.
Ya it should be good
Did you get this to work with the 4WD?
Great video. I have a couple questions:
I would like to keep the remote steering capabilities. Do I need a regulator on those wires too, to step it down to 12v?
Also, is the charging port useless after the upgrade? I see your amazon links are to a generic multi-voltage charger, something that doesn't look like it would plug into the charging port.
So I have a video on the steering plz check it out and see if this is what you need.
The charging port can be replaced I recommend adding a new one or just directly charging the battery individually(12v) or together (24v)
@@Neonjer11 You're awesome! Thanks!
Amazing video. But my shifter has the low and high mode on the shift. Is there a way for me to connect a pedal regulator instead of one that is just on and off
No that would be a variable switch in that case it would be a completely different system setup. Most common is the disassembling of a drill. Using the trigger as a pedal switch and a direct battery hookup not needing a ESC because you are using all the drill internals. Not sure about the pros/cons of that setup tho.
Great video thank you. Anyone has ideas on how to tame the snappy steering after the power upgrade?
ua-cam.com/video/wIuo2gSvvOs/v-deo.html
@@Neonjer11 Thank you, another very helpful video!
I am back and happy to report your help was very much appreciated. I have the Power Wheels both running off my Ryobi 18v batteries but I appear to have burned the motor on the Dodge Ram Kids Trax. Do you have a recommendation for the gear box and motor for up to 24 volts?
Are they both Powerwheels brand? If so 7R gearbox made for 17t pinion. Install your choice of 24v. Peg Perego brand uses "Johnson" they are very reliable. tho any 550 or 570 motor will work. Hope this helps
I have a quick video on the Powerwheels Bruteforce completely overhauled. Has the same setup. The thing is a beast.
Also the stock gearboxs should be fine since the RX30 has the slow start. BestChoice Jeep have the cheap gearboxes and they work just fine
Also the 570 is a little bigger and is the same fitment size as a 550 if you need that little extra torque
@@Neonjer11 ok thank you for the information. I'll check them out. The Trax, I don't think they are power wheels brand. The Dodge seems to go by Trax everywhere I look and the green buggy with two speeds halls ass but I got it at Costco and when I search for it online I don't find much in terms of support or information but the gear boxes look similar to the weelye options on Amazon.
@@AlexErika ya the cheap one use Weelye products
Man, this video worked great for me to repair a 24v ride on i had. I just had mine go out again and i thought just swapping the board may get me goin again but now it does nothing. It seems to be getting power but nothing happens when i push the pedal. Any ideas? Could the pedal switch be bad? How would i go about finding out what may be keeping it from running? Batteries for sure are good and i have a new board. Same as before
If you have a remote i would try that first. If the remote works it soming you wired wrong or that isnt making contact. jump the pedal wires first. a common problem. Also next you can jump the shift fwd or rev. I'd start there as long as you 100% the batteries are good and no fuse has blown.
I will try jumping those items first thing in morning to test that out! I didnt think of just trying that. Thank you for the quick reply!
What a great video to learn from. I have a little bit different wiring harness that I’m trying to figure out for my daughters Best Choice Range Rover. The power on/off switch has a bunch of wires coming into it and I’m not sure which ones to cut to be able to put the 24v-12v resistor on. Any way you might be able to give me some advice? I have a picture of the wires going into the on/off switch
@@joshosich22 post them in the Google photos link and will check it out!
@@Neonjer11I’m not sure how to do that.
@@joshosich22 there should be a link in the description
@@Neonjer11 thank I posted there
Great video! Thanks for the wiring diagram.
Is there any chance you’d know if a brake reduction system could be fitted to this? I only have the two wire pedal, similar the diagram you have. Not the three wire plunger pedal that works with the MLtoys module.
That's because the brake module they make is not for use with ESC it's for battery direct units. The ESC in the best choice models have the brake built in. The only way I would think would be to add a capacitor on each motor lead to lessen the brake. tho I can't be sure if it will work and with which capacitor size cause I have never attempted
Great video, this is what I was actually looking for to see if the controllers interchange easily.
Keep up the good work.
Glad I could help
@@Neonjer11 hi at the minute 34:20 you said. What do you mean tighten motor or titan motor? I don’t know. Well I have an issue the relay that you’re said is getting triggered. This are the voltage are getting in the 7 pins harness.
Power input 24v
Power output 12v
Ground 24v
Back 3V ,Forward 3V , H and L 2.90V
@xavi-12 Titan Motor brand. it's a good Motor but don't work well with the esc
@@Neonjer11 thank you. Esc the relay is getting triggered… any other time while my daughter are driving. What do you think is the issue.
@xavi-12 if the motors are worn. I would say the esc is seeing a high load cause the Motor is struggling. replace it and you should be fine.
tank you for your video very professional i have a mercedes and i cant get my power steering to work will you help me
What's wrong with it?
What an awesome video! One question, would it be possible to just add a separate 24v battery and plug into a 24v motor and have that separate circuit be controlled via a relay. That relay would be in place of the 12v control board engine connection. So I would still leave a small 12v battery in the system to run the radio and control board and have a separate 24v circuit running the engines?
I'm sure you could but it would defeat the purpose of upgrading the stock parts. As in you would be making a custom system
This has been a great help, thanks for putting so much time and effort into it. I followed your steps for the most part. 12 to 24v conversion. Went with RX30 & (2) 550 1800rpm motors. Went with (2) 12v 18ah batteries and built a custom wood holder to secure everything in the engine bay. I did a different charging setup.
While the polarity of several things needed swapped to work correctly with the motors and remote...I still have one issue. My Jeep did not come with a hi/low switch, but I added one. However it make no noticable difference. The 24v speed is probably a little too fast for my son right now, would really like this switch to work. Any thoughts? I wired in the 7 wire plug and believe I have the orange wire and black wires to the switch correct.
So pretty much the hi/low switch is a ground switch. So this is how it works
Pin 1 unconnected = high speed
Pin 1 connected = puts car into Low speed
So you switch when connected to ground should lower the voltage going to your motors giving you a slower speed. If this doesn't work it's either connected wrong or something else is going on.
You do have a second option and that would be to sync the remote control supplied with the rx30 and you can manually select between 3 speeds using the (S) button on the controller. The only issue with this is if the car is powered off then back on it will reset it self back to whatever is selected in the jeep
Hopefully this helps
Also if possible prop the rear wheels up put it in low. Press the pedal. Listen and flip to high, listen for the speed increase or you can also check the output voltage to the motors if you wanna be sure it's working but it's just a simple ground switch
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for the response. I do realize there is a remote option, but rarely use that and am nervous that it would revert to high speed on its own. I actually hid the hi/low switch in one of the front wheel wells and would like my son to not realize it is an option yet.
When using the remote speed control, I can audibly hear the speed/sound difference between the 3 choices. With the switch I hear no difference (and no difference on our test drives).
Have tried different combinations with the plugs on the back of the switch, but couldn't tell a difference. In your diagram you put the orange wire in the middle, does it matter which side? Also do all of the blacks matter where they are located?
I have a multi meter, but haven't broken it out yet. Have never used on low voltage. Is there is a chance that the switch is working but that I can't hear/see the difference?
@@Neonjer11 I believe I said orange wire, but meant to say yellow. Either way, I will just connect the yellow to the blacks directly to test a low speed.
@@tylergerber8638 don't go by color go by the pin #
@@tylergerber8638 ok so if the remote is cutting the speed, then the ESC is working. Yes the wires matter where they are on the switch. Do like you said and bypass the switch and directly ground the low pin#1
DUDE! Just spent a few hours of the course of today, after I blew up my controller RX23 trying to run 18v battery, 2 new motors.. & DC controller, I didn't turn it up too high either. I think (I think) the motors were drawing too much current and it popped and smoked.
The rx23 I believe is a 12v controller 18v can not be added to it. If you were trying to do the 18v upgrade you see on the internet those rideons do Not have a controller, they are direct battery power. Completely different system
Can i convert a 24v to 36v by just hooking up to 18v batteries ?
Great video! I am looking to tackle this 24V upgrade soon. I have a couple questions regarding some of the components:
1. Can I use the stock 18ga wires for the battery and motor wires? If not, should I switch for 16ga or 14ga?
2. (only if i need to switch the wires) where can I get the terminals for the wire connectors or proper ga pigtails with connectors installed?
You can use the stock I haven't had any issues. If you did want to upgrade you only need to upgrade the motor and battery leads.
Thanks for the quick reply. I, like a previous comment mentioned, was thinking of just placing a 12V regulator on the red/blk coming from the ecm, going to the power switch. But you mentioned the white wire feeds the voltage back to the ecm and it needs 24V to function properly.
This got me wondering could I just use the 12V (RX-19) with a 12V regulator placed as mentioned above? The ecm will have its 12V (coming down the white wire) and the 24V won't hurt the system as it just passes through to the motors once the relay is triggered. What are your thoughts?
Just peeked inside the RX-19. Looks like the relays are only 15A instead of the 30A/40A inside the RX30, so guess it may not work...
@@wevans4007 ya you could try that. Tho not sure the reason of that? I assume because you wanna use the drill batteries? It could work of you set it up right
I'd love to see how to make the pedal actually regulate speed/voltage to the motors as opposed to being just a switch attached to another high low switch
Inorder to do that you would have to do away with the controller and go direct setup like powerwheels and then get a variable switch and install it on the pedal. Some people have done it using old 18v drill and using the trigger as the pedal. This requires a little customization
Could you regulate the voltage to 12 on the wire going to the on off switch then everything would stay 12 volt except motors .... just thinking thanks for the great video
Yes you are doing that, tho on the output side of your switch, still need the 24v pin 7 to feed pin 6 to turn on/off the esc and work. This is why we split it
@@Neonjer11 I don't understand this response. You said the controller is just relaying the power. Why would the on/of switch need 24v?
@DOBICONJT follow the wiring diagram and you will see 24 volts gets split after the switch so that everything can power ON at the same time. the split and voltage reg happens after the switch.
I'm looking to get the correct connector from the Controller to the Steering motor (I still have the 12V motor and its not the same connector/terminal) would you have any advice on where to find these ? Btw, great video, your are THE video I was looking for !
Not sure on the steering it's a 2 wire motor?
@@Neonjer11 yes but the pins are different, too bad I can't post a pic
@@Avtomav you can in Google photos link in the description or use imgur.com
@@Neonjer11 UA-cam doesn't like Imgur links : slash a slash gXcaqSY
Incredible master class you have created here. I have a different question. My grandson's Jeep cuts out after a short while. I replaced the therma fuse attached to the battery but didn't solve the problem. Any ideas what else could cause it?
Is it stock? If yes how much usage on the motors?
Typically the ESC trip due to strain on the ESC meaning something is drawing to much. Weak or worn motors can due this. Also a battery going bad or just the terrain can do it but that's usually corrected by not going crazy driving lol. My best guess would be motors tho
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for quick reply. It is stock. They had attached a wagon to it and it started sometime after that. It was driven mostly in the grass, I think and their lawn isn't completely flat.
@@ToMakeMoneyOnline motors are probably worn. You can upgrade to 12v 570 style motors this will help with the stress from towing lol
@@Neonjer11 Will look into it. Appreciate your response and advice. Thanks a bunch!
I just completed the 24V upgrade with new RX30, new RS550 30K RPM motors. Have done a couple of test runs in the backyard on St.Augustine grass in about 90 degree weather . ECM seems to trip after about 5 - 10mins of use. It resets pretty quickly, thinking it may be over heating. Motors get 135+ degrees also.
Wondering if it's the terrain, ECM, bad motors, or something else??
I got one of these for my kid, and I always wanted to do something like this for him since out of the box it seems pretty underpowered. But damn, I am no electrician. Don't suppose I can just pay you to do it? lol
I can make you a replacement harness like in the video. Or you can send me yours if you want
lol i thought you were going to use that regulator on the motors, those things are only rated for like 2 amps.
The weight of 2 12V batteries is going to drag down the speed big time.
Im trying to fix my son's Ride on car and it has the RX30 controller in it, we've lost the remote so I ordered a TX20 remote. However I'm unable to pair it up with the controller. I followed pretty much all the steps, the remote goes into the pairing mode but fails after about a minute or so. is the RX30 controller compatible with the TX20? or you think it might be a faulty RX30 controller?
ps. The car works fine by itself, its just the remote that doesn't want to pair.
@@alexbron9818 so the way I've done it. have the remote in pairing then turn on the truck. Should find the truck and connect
I'm not familiar with the TX20 so it may not be compatible too, good luck
@@Neonjer11 hey tnx for your reply 👍. Yes that's how I tried to pair as well. No luck unfortunately 😕
After completing this project, the only problem I have is the light on/off switch. It's not lighting up & not functional. Does anyone have any clue? Any wiring diagram for this? @tsrgraphics you rock for putting this together. Thank you
Have you checked the Google Photos link?
I have. The wiring to the light switch was unchanged.
@@JKtheOREO1) ok fist thing is does the car work after the upgrade or is it just the switch? Check you voltages and make sure you have power.
If not check your wiring make sure the are correct
2)if they are, have you tried a different switch?
@@JKtheOREO remember that the diagram Is for the RX30 not your particular vehicles esc
How is the braking after the conversion? More harsh? And is there a way to improve braking or removing it in this set up? I understand the mtl brake module doesn’t work in this setup but I’ve been trying to brainstorm ways to adjust the braking
Well braking is set by the esc. The mlt brake mod doesn't work because that is not made for esc devices, only direct battery.
Very good detailed video on the upgrade. I'm planning on running a set of Ryobi 18v 4.0ah batteries to my upgraded RX30/24v 30k rpm motors/speed controller. Would a regulator really be that important or would a 6v increase to the radio and lights be an issue? I upgraded the 12v motors from 9k to 40k RPM motors (i currently run two 12v7ah batteries in parallel for longevity) and the batteries die MUCH faster. And I've noticed since the motors dont have as much torque, the car turns off if the motors are loaded going through mud sometimes...and have to wait 30s or so for it to automatically turn back on. This only happened on the stock set up once or so if i pushed it, with the motor upgrades, its constant under any major load. Im hoping with the 24v motors, running an 18v battery, i can run it at 100% without overloading the motors.
Some say they have run the 18v on the rx30, tho I personally never test it on 18v, also keep in mind if you upgrade motor to 24v, @18v it will be slower as you will under power the motor by 25% if you leave the 12v motors @ 18v you will overvolt at 25%, it will be fast but the life of the motors will be shortened not sure how the Weelye esc will act as it may trip due to the load it sees. The issue you described sounds like the motors are worn and need replaced it's not a battery issue imo
as for the light and radio yes 12v only
Also the high the rpm the less torque you will have so if you off reading with 40k lol it probably will give u issue, 30k-40k is black top parking lot riding where not much torque is needed, I would go 18k if possible for balance stock is I think like 10k-12k rpm
@@Neonjer11 thanks for the replies... the stock motors were 550/12v/9k rpm. they're cheap enough I could buy a set of 18k rpm motors for the 12v set up just to have.... but the motors in it now at 40k rpm are brand new...first time using them too yesterday actually. they work great on pavement...but in mud or water they tend to do the internal shutoff thing...so i figured they were just being overloaded.
I was hoping the 18v battery would work with the 24v set up and just be safe from overloading anything..but at minimum it soundsl ike I'll need to get a regulator for the lights and radio or risk burning them up. Thanks again for the reply!
BMW i8 coupe steering box and steering shaft gear, provide a link to where I can buy them please
There is a 2WD/4WD switch on my son's Blade XR 2.0 4x4, as well as 3 selectable speeds (R-P-D1-D2-D3), would the RX30 support those two functions?
I have no clue. Lol
Nice video, you very intelligent. Just wondering if my ride on has 4 motors 12v and 2 batteries 12v what charger should I use 12v or 24v, also if I changed my rx19 to rx30 what charger to use with the 2x12v batteries please
Something like this that does 12v or 24v is what I use. This way you can do either depending setup or multiple rideons
www.amazon.com/dp/B0856ZW6SR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Is the upgraded speed control necessary? Im wondering if i can just change to 24v gear box and motors and run 2 batteries in series and be good. I mean the 18v battery on the stock 12v system increased power and speed by 50% so i wouldnt see why it wouldnt double doing 24v. The problem is i burnt up my 12v motors lol
does your setup have a speed control?
I have installed the batteries, everything was great, but now when it is put in reverse it doesnt work. I haven't put in the regulator yet but that shouldn't affect the driving correct? Just the lights and radio?
Ya it sounds like you may have a wire not connected right, or the shifter you have could be slightly different. When shifting into reverse the ground should connect to the reverse wire (2) if I remember correctly on the RX-30 check the Google Photos link in the description for the wiring diagram
Have upgraded an rx7 board to rx74(has rx30 printed on it so i believe 74 and 30 are same thing)
Issues: My car which is a range rover type copy has a D1 D2 D3 speed dial on the dash as well as reverse and brake. When hooked up to this new board the car takes off without even pushing accelerator when set to any D or reverse setting. Also doesnt sound to change speed when flicking between 1-3 with wheels propped up.
Issue2, remote appeares to bind/connect to board but the car doesn't respond to any steering or drive commands from the remote.
Anyone have fixes for these issues or do i have a faulty board or incompatible car?
I changed a rx23 to a rx74 so I could upgrade to 24v and it doesn't work. The power button doesn't seem to come on.
not sure of the RX74. I've only used RX30
I want to add ML Toys brake reduction module. Where would I put it since accelerator pedal switch has only two wires compared to power wheels three wires.
As far a I know the capacitor Is to be placed on the power wire on Powerwheels pedal which likely doesn't use a ESC. The Weelye ESC is "Ground ( - )" based as the pedal wires have no power only ( - ). I'm not sure but the the ML capacitor size feeds 2 motors on Powerwheels. The BCP is not set up that way tho it maybe possible to install on the power + motor lead bit only be used when going forward check with ML since they sell it. I've never used or need one and never been supplied with one to test out. Hope this helps
If you do figure out a solution please let us know there are people looking to do the same
Hi tsrgraphics..
So I recently bought a remote control ausom 12v truck 2 seater off amazon.. I ended up putting a 20v dewalt drill battery conversion on it. Ran a 30 fuse from battery to a power supply knob. I only ever ran it on about %25 power and it was plenty for our 7 month old,(we ran the remote). After a few drives the pedal and all controller functions stopped working. Everything turns on.. radio, horn, lights, everything but the pedal/remote.
Do you have any clue what could be causing this?
I thought maybe it was the 12v control box so I bought a 24v one and same issue, everything works but no acceleration/turning. I’ve also hooked the battery straight to each motor and both work A-okay.
Thanks for any information you can provide!
Try checking the pedal or shifter for a bad connection. The remote has to be re-synced if you swapped ESCs. Also by any chance did anything get wet or left outside
Thanks for the fast reply! Both connections are good.. I did re-sync the controller. Old one had stopped working also. Would the shifter and pedal affect the remote control? Sorry kind of new at this stuff.
Also in the foot pedal, there’s only a little chip with the wires glued in, and a spring. I don’t see how it would get information on how far the pedal is being pushed down. Almost seems like something came off maybe?
Hasn’t gotten wet though, 2 day old power wheel. Thanks so much for the help here.
@@tyson16stewart No, the Remote overrides any manual functionality
The pedal is just a momentary switch (on when pressed down, off when released) there's no in-between.
Running 20v you may have tripped the fuse inline near the motors. These are secondary fuses usually located near the rear close to the motors. Usually one for each motor. 20v could definitely blow those since they are only rated based on a 12v setup. Just a thought
Also to narrow it down is it just the motors? Does your steering work thru the remote?
Nope the steering doesn’t work either. Just disassembled the whole thing and verified there’s no fuses by the motors.
I just don’t understand what it could be. Wish we had a repair shop for these things close by in Illinois 🤨
What awg cable to connect 2 batteries?
I have a 6v car Do I still need to upgrade the board if I’m only doing a 18v swap?
Ik my lights would get fried so I was thinking about getting rid of the accessories completely and not hooking them up
6v motor on 18v battery would not work. Also the stock board will fry only good for 6v
Also Weelye doesn’t make a 18v model. You can attempt to use the 24v model but no guarantee it will work with 18v
Hi there, I've just picked up a 12v 200w rx34... I love your video and it has explained almost everything I need to know, my only concern left is that my rx34 has a 7 pin connector instead of a 6 and I don't know what the 7th pin goes to... I assume the pins should still run the same as you've described them from left to right but that leaves me with an exposed pin and no idea what it's for, hope you or someone can help!
Please add pics of your wiring to the Google Photos help folder
@@Neonjer11 done ☺️
@@willtrench4819 You need to verify where those wires are going to in order to make sure the cross reference rx30 wiring is correct
here goes...a completely off the wall inquiry, I would like to try adapt a RX30 receiver to power and control via bluetooth my outdoor train locomotive(s).Obviously I won't have a forward reverse manual control or foot activated throttle connections. My limited understanding of the wiring you have in the video doesn't make me feel competent to hook up experimental connections, however, it does look like I'll need some sort of connection(s) on the 7 pin connector to get things to operate. Any clues would be immensely appreciated.
Pin 6/7 would be your + on/off button or switch
Pin 4 is ground -
Pin 3 is fwd and need to be grounded to engage the motors to work.
Pin 2 reverse(wouldn't use for a train)
Pin 1 if grounded will give you low mode
Tho other than pins 7/6 all the other pins really don't matter if you use the Bluetooth remote as that will override all the pins functions
Hope this helps
Does anyone have any experience with upgrading this to a 20V dewalt battery?? i tried adding one and put a motor controller after the dewalt battery but the RX-19 doesn't like the 20V ( even though with a load on in its set at 13v) after this, I tried to put a 20 to 12v (480watt 40A) transformer in the vehicle. Im having issues now triggering the resettable fuses. I think this is due to the fact that the output of the transformer is 12.2V and the stock batteries are typically just over 13V even though they state that they are 12V. Any ideas or tips???
Go with the RX30 it's good for 24v you can use 20v on it from what I've heard. This not sure how your 12v motor will hold up
When charging the batteries in series, will the charger you recommend stop charging on its own? At what voltage? Mine showed 27.1 volts before I disconnected it fearing it was too high
It should stop once fully charged
What about the best choice variants that have the on/off button integrated into the lights/horn/engine control board? Can this board handle more than 12 v?
I just did a 24 volt conversion on mine with the same set up you have and it fried the control board immediately. I'm also wondering how to make this work
I have the rx74 and it has the hi low switch but the car stays on full speed with the remote and with the pedal. I bought another kit , the same. Same issue. Don’t know what else to do. If u would help i would so appreciate it
I am not 100% on an RX74. This Video was based on a RX-30 24v model. Id need much more info to help.
I hate to ask something that's already been answered but I'm not sure it has exactly. So if I'm wanting to just go the simple route and use 18v batteries ( have plenty) can I use the stock ecs but include a step down for the 12v accessories? Is it better to run the weelye rx30 with 18v instead of the stock one even if I'm not running 24v? Also assuming I made the transition from 12v to 24v what batteries are people using? I love the idea of simple reliable quality 18v tool batteries that charge quickly. Thanks for your time and I appreciate the video.
Sorry just noticed you mentioned mighty max batteries for the 24v system, are you aware of lipo alternatives people might be using?
-I'm not 100% sure on the 18v. Ive never ran a drill battery thru a esc/controller. Tho I have heard some people say it works. Not sure of the model esc there using tho, and how long it lasted.
-Any thing above 12v (aka q8v,2rv etc) on 12v rated equipment i recommended using a step down regulator if you increasing total vehicle voltage.
As for reliable batteries I've been using the MightyMax brand seem to hold up well for the price. Run time on 24v is 30mins or so and on a 24v quick smart charger there good in a few hours. Typically my Kids don't hold interest in driving to much over the 30min threshold so I never really run in to an issue with run time.
-Just my personal choice i only use 18v on vehicles without ESC Controllers for that reason they were not made for that. If something goes wrong its time and money wasted. Tho I'm sure people have setup that run 18v with controllers i know you could use a Motor Speed Controller on Amazon. Power wheels motors usually draw 27a 230w of power. So get something that can handle more then that and you could wire one of the with your lipo I assume, they are like 12v-48v input and variable output. Ive only do 1 install with those it worked but I like the rx30 better. Seems to to the job at 24v.
Hi could you do a how to covert to 20v dewalt battery please 🙏 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
The weelye esc doesn’t have a 20v only 6v/12v/24v that I know of. You would have to try an rx30 with the 20v battery and regulate the 12v stuff. Tho no guarantees it will be enough to power a 24v sec.
Hi, im new to this thing, i just got a power wheels boomerang. Could i use it to power all 3 Wheels?
I would assume you can tho you would have to rewire. I'm sure powerwheels has different wiring setup
can I just leave pin 1 Open if I don't have the high/low switch? I plan on just swapping the board and factory wiring doesn't have the high low switch. I apologize if you went over this in the video but I kinda skipped through it.
Yes if you leave it out it's the same as having it in the Hi position
@@Neonjer11 I have a fuse that goes from the power button to the headlight on/off switch. Does that get brought in to the stepdown or leave it as is?
@@BEASST I would keep it on the 12v side
I've replaced the rx 43 for the rx 30 and I get nothing ? Am I missing something. I also have an adjustable regulator between the board and 20v dewalt battery.
Well not sure why you have a regulator between the unit and the battery? The unit requires 24v to operate. I assume this is your issue
Does anyone know the amperage pull of the 24v motors? I would like to power the jeep with a 40v kobalt battery but need to ensure I can get a step down converter with appropriate amp rating
So bc of the esc and lights and everything would if possible to wore those completely independent to a 12v battery and then use some drill battery(still undecided on brand/vol) to run the the rc car?
Not sure I understand. you could run everything on 12v independently but that means you'll have to rewire the entire car for the drill batteries to go directly to the motors. Kinda defeats the purpose of upgrading your esc
So I plan on using your setup but with 18V. I want to use 18V primarily because I have a bunch of extra 18V Ryobi batteries. What are your thoughts on adding a PWM motor speed controller wired between the RX30 to the motors, that way the system is at 18V, the electronics are at 12V with the regulator, and the motors have a PWM that I can manually switch between 0-18V?
Nope 18v will be to.slow it's a 24v system. Adding a Pwm will confuse the RX30 and not work. Either one or the other. can't use both. If you go PWM there is no need for the RX-30
I have the Weelye 12 volt remote kit and have been trying to figure out what the 5 extra radio and lights actually powered. Everyone skips right over where they actually plug in lol, does anyone have the toy with the radio and lights? Even the wiring diagrams online just say lights and music interface. Edit... Oh so the white plug would power the radio and the other 4 black connectors would run accessory lights ok I get it now :-)
Any other questions just ask
I’ve got a Uenjoy Jeep. Switched out to 24v motors. The 12v setup had both motors wired to one plug going to speed controller. With R30, do I separate the motors and plug each one into its own hole on R30?
It shouldn't matter
I have a jeep made by joymoor, I believe it's the same wiring and all. Do you know if that's correct?
Not sure, every manufacturer adds different things
My son ripped two wires out from under the hood. I'm stumped. One of them is the blue wire from top right side another a red from plastic square that has multiple red leads coming from it. One is already attached to the battery. The blue from the upper left is already attached . Any help would be great. Thanks
Blue is usually the antenna coming from the radio the other one might be powe wires for accessories. I can only guess without pics
I have this Jeep but mine does not come with the HIGH LOW SWITCH. It has a shifter that is HIGH LOW and REVERSE? Do I need to make a separate switch like you have in this video?
No it the same thing just all in one. If you have a weelye control board(esc) it should be plug and play less the 12v accessories that require a regulator
Can you walk me through the wiring for the hi/low switch? It appears the yellow comes from the middle contact on the plug and the ground comes from the hi side of the switch. Does it matter which wire it connects to when going to the pedal?
So on the RX30 as shown in the Google Photos link in the description...
Pin #1 is your "low" trigger wire. Meaning when connected to ground it will tell the Weelye Control to put it in (Low/). When it is not connected to ground it will run at the rated speed or (/Hi). So as for you question yes it matters tho it's basically a on off switch 😉. When you buy the Weelye hi/low it come as a 6pin not a 2 or 3pin but you could use whatever you want. I just try to keep it to stock parts when explaining stuff especially if someone already has it stock.
@@Neonjer11 thanks, so which two pins do I need to connect to to be able to run low speed? I’m currently connected to the middle pin and “hi” side pin on same side. But it doesn’t change speed. Thanks in advance
@@benrasnick1396 pin 1 (low) and pin 4(ground). you will not see a difference if you use the remote as it overrides anything the driver does. You may also not see a difference until a load is introduced. Just food for thought. Good luck
I’m needing to change the steering drive unit on the Jeep but struggling with getting the wheel off. Are you familiar with how the steering wheel can be removed?
If I remember there's clips on the back collar side of the steering wheel push in and pull. There's a wire there that connects the horn, buttons. Now there should be a nut or pin holding the wheel collar on, should be good after that
Can I just use my 24v Kobalt battery instead of the two batteries in series?
As long as you have the RX30 installed it shouldn't be an issue, but not 100% certain,
I am planning on following your outline - Very well done !
Recently I am having issues with the ESC lights staying on regardless of the switch being turned on and the radio unit does not work. I think the radio unit is shorted out somehow.
My Question - I have looked for replacement radio unit pcb boards but I have come up empty on my 16hour + of searching.... have you come across replacement radio units or maybe have a schematic of the board ?
Thank you.
Which radio do you have? There are a few different kinds. Most likely you can find them on Aliexpress if Noone else has them
@@Neonjer11
The model I have is: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082D4CYBP/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
It seems that the majority of the radio units are the same between these 12v ride on brands (weelye, BC, etc...), with slight differences. If I was able to find one for sale I could make it work. I am not able to locate any radio units .... Was hoping you may have found a site or link in your electrical adventures.
Thank you for the quick reply !
The only identifying part number on the radio PCB is :YJ-205BT-12V
@@ryanrymerson2263 a.aliexpress.com/_mPDrYaw
Does the stock charger still work or do you need to charge one batt at a time?
Ya you could do that. but that charger takes forever. Lol
Hi, thanks for the great video. How would I change the setup if my shifter has a fwd hi, fwd lo, and rev?
You don't have to change anything really if you wire it correctly you'll have all 3 same as you have now less neutral I'm assuming.
I’m trying to use my original shifter, pedal, on/off switch, and charging port and I can’t seem to get it working. I have power to my 7pin connector but I must be missing something. I can’t seem to find anyone to give me a straight answer. Should I just rip out all the original wiring and run new ones like in your video?
@@jamesoleary7560 did you or can you post some pics of the wiring and shift components to the Google Photos help link folder. Unfortunately these manufacturers have different components for the same bodies. The part all do the same its just figuring out which wire goes where, lol.
photos.app.goo.gl/oj5kBWeh8WxC3F4S7
My high/low doesn't appear to be working. Is there something I possibly have wrong? I've double-checked and all wires are connected correctly. Thank you.
Chances are you may have a wire not correct. I assume you stuck on High mode and low mode does not work?
@@Neonjer11 that’s correct. I’ll check all the connections over again. Thanks so much for your videos and help. Awesome job.
@allenarnold2927 remember connecting the pin wire to ground puts it in low power mode