I've gone down about 12 rabbit holes on this project and this is my favorite video thus far. Very well explained. You're saving fathers around the country lots of time. Thank you.
Somehow, even with this excellent tutorial I still managed to spend about 20 hours on this project before claiming success. I've learned I'm not good at soldering, and to check a fuse instead of buying a new multimeter thinking the cheap harbor freight one was broken when no voltage was going to the 30 rx unit. Thanks for taking the time and putting this together.
Bought all the stuff to replace a dead battery in my kids powerwheels jeep (or so I thought)... only to realize it had this type of harness and control module. I wish youtube had given this video in my search earlier, you just saved me a ton of time not having to figure out the harness! Thanks so much for this!
My daughter's jeep had the led 2 speed shifter and the circuit board went out. I purchased a basic Fwd Rev shifter but had no clue how to wire it till I found this vid. Great job thanks!
Thank you so much for your help, I found an old buggy type car on the verge that was left out in the elements for years and with your precise instructions I managed to get it going with a new wiring harness off amazon and a lot of disassembly and assembly learning as I went along and now a piece of junk is now going to find a new home for a little one somewhere. so greetings from Mandurah in Western Australia Stay safe and well.
Thank you for your reply, I would like to get the lights going on this car, is there a replacement item for either the globe or the light that could be ordered on line somewhere, many thanks.
Mine didn’t have the hi/lo in it and the wiring coming from the controller seemed a lot different than your setup. It wasn’t as “cut and play” so I ended up just buying the whole upgrade kit on Amazon with the correct wiring components. I’m sure I could follow each of the wires but that just seems like trouble waiting to happen as I’m a rookie when it comes to electrical. Thanks for posting this. It was very helpful either way
I purchased mines in 2022 it has the parental remote control too. I don’t have the hi/lo either. And my on/off switch is wired different from the video. Theirs three prongs from the on/off switch. I just really need to know what to cut and splice. 1st red wire going to module. 2nd set white going to module. Red to radio. Thick Red to head/rear light switch. 3rd set 4-black wires going to lights and radio, 1 brown going to fed/rev. * I imagine I have to intercept the red to radio and red to light switch. And intercept the 4 blacks to lights and radio.
Anyone have an issue with the push button becoming hot? Did this exact conversion, running the regulator in between outgoing power from power button and radio/lights. Wires all feel fine, just push button seems a bit hotter than it should. Tsgraphics thank you for this vid! Gave me the confidence to do the conversion. Daughters expression was priceless!
Great video. I have a couple questions: I would like to keep the remote steering capabilities. Do I need a regulator on those wires too, to step it down to 12v? Also, is the charging port useless after the upgrade? I see your amazon links are to a generic multi-voltage charger, something that doesn't look like it would plug into the charging port.
So I have a video on the steering plz check it out and see if this is what you need. The charging port can be replaced I recommend adding a new one or just directly charging the battery individually(12v) or together (24v)
@@ianferguson6616 yes, no other way... but even after wiring it all still the car is restarting after full throttle is on. Will just build it up completely from scratch without the remote and amen.
Hi my friend and Thank You so much for this video, my upgrade went pretty well because of this video. I only have one question and that Is driving me crazy, now my son's jeep is a bit faster then I was thinking and tried hooking up the yellow wire as you directed and it seems to slow down a little but not as much as i would like. I have tried installing a PWM so i can turn down the speed to the motors and this worked perfected. However doing this caused him not to be able to go in revers for some reason and lost his gas pedal. So the way i have wired up the pwm was taking the wire that plugs into the motor port on the rx30 and cutting it now putting quick disconnect on the two ends one going into the rx30 port then wire into the pwm input. next running out of the pwm connecting directly to the wires going to the motors. like i said this worked perfectly i was able to slow down the jeep but I no longer had gas pedal function or reverse. Any tips to help with this would be greatly appreciated .. Thanks a million again you are a life saver for sure not mention a mentor to many!
PWM is a one way feed usually. The rx-30 reverses the polarity of the motors for reverse. Maybe search and see if there is a model PWM that will also sense the switching polarity when switching to reverse. Otherwise I'd just remove it
Amazing video. But my shifter has the low and high mode on the shift. Is there a way for me to connect a pedal regulator instead of one that is just on and off
No that would be a variable switch in that case it would be a completely different system setup. Most common is the disassembling of a drill. Using the trigger as a pedal switch and a direct battery hookup not needing a ESC because you are using all the drill internals. Not sure about the pros/cons of that setup tho.
Truly a great video. I did the conversion today step by step watching this. I had to make a couple tweaks but would have never figured it out without you. One thing, when the car had two kids in it, something is overheating and the auto resetting. I’m guessing it is the auto fuse I left in place. Any idea what size I should replace this with?
@@JoshHowman the fuse is the to protect. Chances are with 2 kids depending on weight the motors may be straining cause the trip. The lower rpm motors have more torque but less top end speed. This might be a fix for you. Other wise you other options are increase to a 570 size motor for a bit motor torque and size and or roll the dice and up the fuse size. This all being said, I assume it works fine with one kid?
@@Neonjer11 Yes sir works great with 1 child. I didn't mention, I have the 12V motors in it still. I figured I might as well burn them up before I swap in the 24V motors. Do you think that could be causing the over amp?
Man, this video worked great for me to repair a 24v ride on i had. I just had mine go out again and i thought just swapping the board may get me goin again but now it does nothing. It seems to be getting power but nothing happens when i push the pedal. Any ideas? Could the pedal switch be bad? How would i go about finding out what may be keeping it from running? Batteries for sure are good and i have a new board. Same as before
If you have a remote i would try that first. If the remote works it soming you wired wrong or that isnt making contact. jump the pedal wires first. a common problem. Also next you can jump the shift fwd or rev. I'd start there as long as you 100% the batteries are good and no fuse has blown.
Exactly what I was looking to do to re-assure myself in my planning of my project. we took the exact same approach. Do you mind updating the amazon links? I cant decide on a 24v charger. I did upgrade the wiring from battery to ESC/controller and from ESC/controller to motors for less voltage drop.
What a great video to learn from. I have a little bit different wiring harness that I’m trying to figure out for my daughters Best Choice Range Rover. The power on/off switch has a bunch of wires coming into it and I’m not sure which ones to cut to be able to put the 24v-12v resistor on. Any way you might be able to give me some advice? I have a picture of the wires going into the on/off switch
Great details on the video with explanation. I have an electronic 12/24vdc controller on the kidszone jeep my granddaughter uses. JR1927M-Z. Is there a harness/ kit that interfaces with that controller and remote. I’ve already purchased the 24v 30000 rpm motors/gearbox. Thanks
Remember the 30,000 rpm motors at top end will be faster but you will lose some torque depends on weight of child and terrain on how much it will affect start speed Amazon has Weelye kits that include every part included a harness but none with just a harness only. Tho you can get the Lipo pin Harness as listed in the description
Good to know about the 12v for the radio and lights. If the radio is upgraded to 24v, will the lights still need to be on 12v? Had anyone put the lights and radio on a separate battrey?
ya anything is possible. video is for best and simplest install hange over. still need 12v unless you upgrade those too. I'm sure amazon has 24v leds. separate battery is possible but then extra switches and wires plus I recommend small battery to reduce the weight if separating the lights
Yes. Been 2 years in the making and them here u come to show me just about all I was needing. The thing I'm needing to know is I'm gonna use the rx-30 on a 4x4 system. Will 24v 22ah battery be enough? Plus the premade wire harness that comes with the rx-30 and 4x4 setup doesnt gave the radio and light pig tails. I theory I should be able to wire the 12 reg somewhere into the power switch to when the switch is on its providing power to the regulator and onto the accessory? Does that sound correct to anyone. I dont wanna fry any control boards or solder anymore blown capacitors. Lol. Had one blow off the board and put a hole right in the case. Replaced the 330uf and bam. Back rolling. Board has a over draw problem tho and that's why I'm changing everything out.
I am back and happy to report your help was very much appreciated. I have the Power Wheels both running off my Ryobi 18v batteries but I appear to have burned the motor on the Dodge Ram Kids Trax. Do you have a recommendation for the gear box and motor for up to 24 volts?
Are they both Powerwheels brand? If so 7R gearbox made for 17t pinion. Install your choice of 24v. Peg Perego brand uses "Johnson" they are very reliable. tho any 550 or 570 motor will work. Hope this helps I have a quick video on the Powerwheels Bruteforce completely overhauled. Has the same setup. The thing is a beast. Also the stock gearboxs should be fine since the RX30 has the slow start. BestChoice Jeep have the cheap gearboxes and they work just fine
@@Neonjer11 ok thank you for the information. I'll check them out. The Trax, I don't think they are power wheels brand. The Dodge seems to go by Trax everywhere I look and the green buggy with two speeds halls ass but I got it at Costco and when I search for it online I don't find much in terms of support or information but the gear boxes look similar to the weelye options on Amazon.
You really went all out on this! You sir, are the GOAT. I know we spoke of how the forward/reverse lever works off of grounds, but when I first hooked up 24v without the regulator it seemed to have burned up the Forward/reverse switch but only one polarity not both ways. I've replaced it now and currently running at 12v until I complete the upgrade and is working. My question is, is there anyway it could have actually burned it out? It was working fine before I fried everything haha. I think that's where some confusion came on upgrading it for me when looking at the other video/pictures as I saw no connection to the lever from regulator. If it only works off of grounds is there something I'm missing? I will hook everything up like you did when I get the time, but I don't want to ruin another lever and have to keep my daughter waiting even longer haha. Thank you for the time you've put into this I really appreciate it, you've done an awesome job. Seeing the harness out and the connection of the regulator answered all questions about the placement immediately. Now I'm just unsure of burning out the forward/reverse again, though if I do it's not like they are very expensive.
@Frank Torrano I think you'll be fine. You maybe over thinking it. I tried to explain how the wires interact with the ESC for knowledge, hoping not to confuse anyone. Follow the layout and you should be fine.
What an awesome video! One question, would it be possible to just add a separate 24v battery and plug into a 24v motor and have that separate circuit be controlled via a relay. That relay would be in place of the 12v control board engine connection. So I would still leave a small 12v battery in the system to run the radio and control board and have a separate 24v circuit running the engines?
Just got a 12v Jeep for my daughter and want to do this mod and more :) This is a great tutorial but the wiring pics and diagram link is broken. Any chance you could fix it please?
Great video! Thanks for the wiring diagram. Is there any chance you’d know if a brake reduction system could be fitted to this? I only have the two wire pedal, similar the diagram you have. Not the three wire plunger pedal that works with the MLtoys module.
That's because the brake module they make is not for use with ESC it's for battery direct units. The ESC in the best choice models have the brake built in. The only way I would think would be to add a capacitor on each motor lead to lessen the brake. tho I can't be sure if it will work and with which capacitor size cause I have never attempted
Off topic question, I noticed your sweatshirt is the same color and has the same tag on the sleeve as my FR hoodies I got from the utility where I did my apprenticeship. You by chance a fellow lineman or do some other high voltage work? You obviously know your way around electrical circuits more than the average DIYer also, so I had to ask.. Great video by the way, super thorough..
Can you help me? I upgraded to the 24v controller on a 4x4 best choice hummer, and upgraded motors. It constantly trips the 23a auto resetting fuse. Any ideas?
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for the response. I added a M18 Milwaukee battery, and upgraded the ESC to the RX30. I also added a voltage shutoff and motor controller to slow it down for the little ones. It works great at about half speed on the motor controller, but blows the fuse on grass and if I increase the potentiometer any further. I thought upgrading the motors/gearboxes to 24v would fix it, but it's almost worse. I increased wiring to 14ga, but will need to go larger if I increase that fuse.
When it does trip the breaker, it shuts off for a second, then restarts on is own, and repeats until I get it on flat ground. It's drawing a large amount of current at the slow start it appears. Doesn't make a difference if I unplug a set of motors (4x4 so 4 motors)
@@floppyebrokent8578 so your under powering the RX30 with 18v. It really wasn't designed to run at 18v and then get undervalued again, the RX30 thinks the is a problem based on the load and shuts off, after a few it should reset, your best bet is to do one of the following. 1st go 24v(I know everyone loves drill batteries, lol) but if you having load issues that's probably why. 1. 24v battery- use the remote to set speed. 2. Install a Hi/low switch 3. Put the 12v controller in till your kids ready for the extra speed Add things inline to change the volt to the motors or esc will most likely end with a trip
@@Neonjer11 sounds good. I'll hook up two 12v batteries and try again. It does have a high/low switch, so that should help with speed. I left the 12v guts, so that's always an option as well, but probably won't play well with 24v motors now. That all said, I'll try the two batteries to give it 24v. If that works, do you think I could add another M18 in series, and add a 24v buck regulator? I'll either remove the motor controller, or move it after the RX30. Good call there!
Great video! I am looking to tackle this 24V upgrade soon. I have a couple questions regarding some of the components: 1. Can I use the stock 18ga wires for the battery and motor wires? If not, should I switch for 16ga or 14ga? 2. (only if i need to switch the wires) where can I get the terminals for the wire connectors or proper ga pigtails with connectors installed?
Thanks for the quick reply. I, like a previous comment mentioned, was thinking of just placing a 12V regulator on the red/blk coming from the ecm, going to the power switch. But you mentioned the white wire feeds the voltage back to the ecm and it needs 24V to function properly. This got me wondering could I just use the 12V (RX-19) with a 12V regulator placed as mentioned above? The ecm will have its 12V (coming down the white wire) and the 24V won't hurt the system as it just passes through to the motors once the relay is triggered. What are your thoughts?
@@wevans4007 ya you could try that. Tho not sure the reason of that? I assume because you wanna use the drill batteries? It could work of you set it up right
I'm looking to get the correct connector from the Controller to the Steering motor (I still have the 12V motor and its not the same connector/terminal) would you have any advice on where to find these ? Btw, great video, your are THE video I was looking for !
Hi I don’t know if I can do this and I thought I would ask you since your the best teacher I’ve seen on this topic. I have a power wheel and I am trying to do a ryobi 40V conversion. My question to you is can I add a ryobi 40V convertion + a voltage regulator to step down to 24V + a remote control box. Will this be too much for the harness or can I do it? If I can, could you do a video of all that or explain the order starting from the battery…
I am not 100% sure but I assume you can step down the voltage to 24v if you get the right step-down regulator. Some people have had successfully done this but I am not sure of the parts used. Good.luck
Going to try this again, first post didn't go through. I found a 24v battery with same dimensions. Hooked it up, everything works as expected. Even comes with charger that plugs into factory port. I'll post link separately in case that's what made my post fail. I'm going to try to use other battery bay for a dedicated 12v accessory battery to get rid of regulator. Is there any way to get the remote steering working off that 12v battery to make it smoother? Can i run second 24v in parallel to increase run time of i keep voltage reg?
@@saldanajoel 24v parallel will increase AH or amp hrs. This determines how long your run is. Go dual 24v 12ah batteries and you'll be fine add the regulator for 12v accessories. And I have a video on the steering unless you wanna go the route of adding relays, but imo not worth the relay cause the kids learn fast
@@Neonjer11 hi at the minute 34:20 you said. What do you mean tighten motor or titan motor? I don’t know. Well I have an issue the relay that you’re said is getting triggered. This are the voltage are getting in the 7 pins harness. Power input 24v Power output 12v Ground 24v Back 3V ,Forward 3V , H and L 2.90V
Incredible master class you have created here. I have a different question. My grandson's Jeep cuts out after a short while. I replaced the therma fuse attached to the battery but didn't solve the problem. Any ideas what else could cause it?
Is it stock? If yes how much usage on the motors? Typically the ESC trip due to strain on the ESC meaning something is drawing to much. Weak or worn motors can due this. Also a battery going bad or just the terrain can do it but that's usually corrected by not going crazy driving lol. My best guess would be motors tho
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for quick reply. It is stock. They had attached a wagon to it and it started sometime after that. It was driven mostly in the grass, I think and their lawn isn't completely flat.
I just completed the 24V upgrade with new RX30, new RS550 30K RPM motors. Have done a couple of test runs in the backyard on St.Augustine grass in about 90 degree weather . ECM seems to trip after about 5 - 10mins of use. It resets pretty quickly, thinking it may be over heating. Motors get 135+ degrees also. Wondering if it's the terrain, ECM, bad motors, or something else??
Im trying to fix my son's Ride on car and it has the RX30 controller in it, we've lost the remote so I ordered a TX20 remote. However I'm unable to pair it up with the controller. I followed pretty much all the steps, the remote goes into the pairing mode but fails after about a minute or so. is the RX30 controller compatible with the TX20? or you think it might be a faulty RX30 controller? ps. The car works fine by itself, its just the remote that doesn't want to pair.
Can you walk me through the wiring for the hi/low switch? It appears the yellow comes from the middle contact on the plug and the ground comes from the hi side of the switch. Does it matter which wire it connects to when going to the pedal?
So on the RX30 as shown in the Google Photos link in the description... Pin #1 is your "low" trigger wire. Meaning when connected to ground it will tell the Weelye Control to put it in (Low/). When it is not connected to ground it will run at the rated speed or (/Hi). So as for you question yes it matters tho it's basically a on off switch 😉. When you buy the Weelye hi/low it come as a 6pin not a 2 or 3pin but you could use whatever you want. I just try to keep it to stock parts when explaining stuff especially if someone already has it stock.
@@Neonjer11 thanks, so which two pins do I need to connect to to be able to run low speed? I’m currently connected to the middle pin and “hi” side pin on same side. But it doesn’t change speed. Thanks in advance
@@benrasnick1396 pin 1 (low) and pin 4(ground). you will not see a difference if you use the remote as it overrides anything the driver does. You may also not see a difference until a load is introduced. Just food for thought. Good luck
What about the best choice variants that have the on/off button integrated into the lights/horn/engine control board? Can this board handle more than 12 v?
I just did a 24 volt conversion on mine with the same set up you have and it fried the control board immediately. I'm also wondering how to make this work
Could I do the same thing using a 20v lithium drill battery? I want to make it faster so considered doing exactly as you have in the video. However I like that the power toll batteries can be charged a hell of a lot faster. Would a 20v power the rx30? Thanks.
can I just leave pin 1 Open if I don't have the high/low switch? I plan on just swapping the board and factory wiring doesn't have the high low switch. I apologize if you went over this in the video but I kinda skipped through it.
Hi tsrgraphics.. So I recently bought a remote control ausom 12v truck 2 seater off amazon.. I ended up putting a 20v dewalt drill battery conversion on it. Ran a 30 fuse from battery to a power supply knob. I only ever ran it on about %25 power and it was plenty for our 7 month old,(we ran the remote). After a few drives the pedal and all controller functions stopped working. Everything turns on.. radio, horn, lights, everything but the pedal/remote. Do you have any clue what could be causing this? I thought maybe it was the 12v control box so I bought a 24v one and same issue, everything works but no acceleration/turning. I’ve also hooked the battery straight to each motor and both work A-okay. Thanks for any information you can provide!
Try checking the pedal or shifter for a bad connection. The remote has to be re-synced if you swapped ESCs. Also by any chance did anything get wet or left outside
Thanks for the fast reply! Both connections are good.. I did re-sync the controller. Old one had stopped working also. Would the shifter and pedal affect the remote control? Sorry kind of new at this stuff. Also in the foot pedal, there’s only a little chip with the wires glued in, and a spring. I don’t see how it would get information on how far the pedal is being pushed down. Almost seems like something came off maybe? Hasn’t gotten wet though, 2 day old power wheel. Thanks so much for the help here.
@@tyson16stewart No, the Remote overrides any manual functionality The pedal is just a momentary switch (on when pressed down, off when released) there's no in-between. Running 20v you may have tripped the fuse inline near the motors. These are secondary fuses usually located near the rear close to the motors. Usually one for each motor. 20v could definitely blow those since they are only rated based on a 12v setup. Just a thought
Nope the steering doesn’t work either. Just disassembled the whole thing and verified there’s no fuses by the motors. I just don’t understand what it could be. Wish we had a repair shop for these things close by in Illinois 🤨
Great video! Best I have seen for this yet! I have the Best Choice Jeep and also the Costco Green Sand Dune one that I am going to upgrade to use some Ryobi 18V batteries. Have you had any experience with running the 18v through the RX30? I am assuming if I run it through the current controller it will burn it up since it is 12v...but wasn't sure if the 24v controller would accept the lower voltage without any problems. I am not too concerned about the parental control anymore or the steering.
@@gulfstream5az Hey Jason, if you tried and/or got an answer, I would appreciate. My sons got 2 jeep with a 12V controller and I happen to have a lot of Ryobi 18V packs, taht would be ideal but I'm still trying to think what would be the best way. I think you are right sending 18V to the controller might fry up everything (12V for lights, MP3 etc AND the steering motor)... Let me know, I would appreciate. Thanks !
@@Avtomav any updates on this? I just bought two 18v ryobi battery adapters for my daughters BC Jeep. I bought all 24v upgrades (motors, RX30/etc and a speed controller), and am hoping the 18v batteries will power the 24v components without any issues. I'm only really concerned about the 12v lights/radio stuff but Ive heard it shouldnt burn anything up. But a regulator may be a good precaution...
@@dham99 unfortunately, the 18V Ryobi are great for a PWM controller but for 24V controller, the Ryobi aren't useful.. you should use 2 Mighty Max 12V batteries in serie.
Could you regulate the voltage to 12 on the wire going to the on off switch then everything would stay 12 volt except motors .... just thinking thanks for the great video
Yes you are doing that, tho on the output side of your switch, still need the 24v pin 7 to feed pin 6 to turn on/off the esc and work. This is why we split it
@DOBICONJT follow the wiring diagram and you will see 24 volts gets split after the switch so that everything can power ON at the same time. the split and voltage reg happens after the switch.
@@adamo7015 it depends on if your radio is also the ESC. If not and it is separate. Then it's possible. You would probably have to run a separate main switch to split power
How is the braking after the conversion? More harsh? And is there a way to improve braking or removing it in this set up? I understand the mtl brake module doesn’t work in this setup but I’ve been trying to brainstorm ways to adjust the braking
I want to add ML Toys brake reduction module. Where would I put it since accelerator pedal switch has only two wires compared to power wheels three wires.
As far a I know the capacitor Is to be placed on the power wire on Powerwheels pedal which likely doesn't use a ESC. The Weelye ESC is "Ground ( - )" based as the pedal wires have no power only ( - ). I'm not sure but the the ML capacitor size feeds 2 motors on Powerwheels. The BCP is not set up that way tho it maybe possible to install on the power + motor lead bit only be used when going forward check with ML since they sell it. I've never used or need one and never been supplied with one to test out. Hope this helps
Hey, what can add into the circuit so that when the foot isn’t on the pedal the wheels just stop and the car skids. Is there something that the car will just roll and a decrease in voltage and it will not jolt when the pedal is not being pressed?
So I plan on using your setup but with 18V. I want to use 18V primarily because I have a bunch of extra 18V Ryobi batteries. What are your thoughts on adding a PWM motor speed controller wired between the RX30 to the motors, that way the system is at 18V, the electronics are at 12V with the regulator, and the motors have a PWM that I can manually switch between 0-18V?
Nope 18v will be to.slow it's a 24v system. Adding a Pwm will confuse the RX30 and not work. Either one or the other. can't use both. If you go PWM there is no need for the RX-30
Its a full walkthru reason its 45min. also in the description are time stamps if your looking for a specific part. Most people don't understand the function of the rideon system, this explains the parts, what they do and why. So for installations and troubleshooting this is good base knowledge.
After completing this project, the only problem I have is the light on/off switch. It's not lighting up & not functional. Does anyone have any clue? Any wiring diagram for this? @tsrgraphics you rock for putting this together. Thank you
@@JKtheOREO1) ok fist thing is does the car work after the upgrade or is it just the switch? Check you voltages and make sure you have power. If not check your wiring make sure the are correct 2)if they are, have you tried a different switch?
What If you wanted to put a 3 wire throttle In place of the pedal because I was looking to swap this into my son’s 6v motorcycle would the throttle take the place of the high/low switch and the pedal together or does It not quite work that way?
I’m needing to change the steering drive unit on the Jeep but struggling with getting the wheel off. Are you familiar with how the steering wheel can be removed?
If I remember there's clips on the back collar side of the steering wheel push in and pull. There's a wire there that connects the horn, buttons. Now there should be a nut or pin holding the wheel collar on, should be good after that
So bc of the esc and lights and everything would if possible to wore those completely independent to a 12v battery and then use some drill battery(still undecided on brand/vol) to run the the rc car?
Not sure I understand. you could run everything on 12v independently but that means you'll have to rewire the entire car for the drill batteries to go directly to the motors. Kinda defeats the purpose of upgrading your esc
Want to do this upgrade but nervous about all the lighting I've added. I think I'm gonna try adding a 18v milwaukee battery to run the motors and then keep the 12v battery to power my rollbar, strobe lights, rock lights and radio. After repainting and adding as many lights as I did to my godsons jeep I'd hate to ruin them!
18v will do the same just not as fast if you dont add a voltage regulator your 12v electronics will break, they are made for 12v. When you see people add a drill battery thats 18v, usually they won't have any esc or electronics that are 12v. There rides are pretty much direct to the motors. No bells and whistles. Hope I explained this ok. Good luck with your mod. Any questions just ask
@@Neonjer11 thanks for the reply! I've been thinking and maybe I will use a step down converter and plug the 12v power and ground into a fused distribution block. Then all my lighting will be fused and 12v and it saves me from using multiple converters.
@@Neonjer11 I forgot I have the power distribution block in place already. My godsons only 2.5 and doesn't go out at night but his jump his lit for anything and everything!
great video. I'm having trouble figuring out the 24V 12V regulator because my car has a circuit board for the lights and radio. everything connects to the board befor being distributed out. if I take the negative front high low switch I dont know where to get the positives. the only positive is the 24V straight to the board. please help?
Did you view the Google Photos link in the description? There is a diagram I made there to assist when installing. Not sure what you mean by circuit board? Either way you tap off the 24v and add a 2nd line with the 24v/12v Regulator. There are usually 2 components 1- the Controller(RX-30) , 2- the radio/ light board. You should have 24v going into the controller from there your controller (rx30) feeds voltage to turn on your accessories this is where you tap in and split. Let me know
I cant add pictures on here. do you have an email I can add pictures. I believe the accessories board has the red black and white 24V wires going to it. along with the yellow from the high low switch. all going in to a harness plugged into the accessories board. instead of straight to the power on off switch like your video shows. do I have to use the negative from the high low switch or can I split off the red and black going into the accessories board harness. this would cause all lights radio and the power on off button to be 12V.
also the accessories board is most likely a 12V board. so shouldnt all leads going into the harness that is plugged into the accessories board be 12V. this accessories board controls radio, lights, power on off, charging port, and has a lead coming from high low switch
When charging the batteries in series, will the charger you recommend stop charging on its own? At what voltage? Mine showed 27.1 volts before I disconnected it fearing it was too high
This has been a great help, thanks for putting so much time and effort into it. I followed your steps for the most part. 12 to 24v conversion. Went with RX30 & (2) 550 1800rpm motors. Went with (2) 12v 18ah batteries and built a custom wood holder to secure everything in the engine bay. I did a different charging setup. While the polarity of several things needed swapped to work correctly with the motors and remote...I still have one issue. My Jeep did not come with a hi/low switch, but I added one. However it make no noticable difference. The 24v speed is probably a little too fast for my son right now, would really like this switch to work. Any thoughts? I wired in the 7 wire plug and believe I have the orange wire and black wires to the switch correct.
So pretty much the hi/low switch is a ground switch. So this is how it works Pin 1 unconnected = high speed Pin 1 connected = puts car into Low speed So you switch when connected to ground should lower the voltage going to your motors giving you a slower speed. If this doesn't work it's either connected wrong or something else is going on. You do have a second option and that would be to sync the remote control supplied with the rx30 and you can manually select between 3 speeds using the (S) button on the controller. The only issue with this is if the car is powered off then back on it will reset it self back to whatever is selected in the jeep Hopefully this helps Also if possible prop the rear wheels up put it in low. Press the pedal. Listen and flip to high, listen for the speed increase or you can also check the output voltage to the motors if you wanna be sure it's working but it's just a simple ground switch
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for the response. I do realize there is a remote option, but rarely use that and am nervous that it would revert to high speed on its own. I actually hid the hi/low switch in one of the front wheel wells and would like my son to not realize it is an option yet. When using the remote speed control, I can audibly hear the speed/sound difference between the 3 choices. With the switch I hear no difference (and no difference on our test drives). Have tried different combinations with the plugs on the back of the switch, but couldn't tell a difference. In your diagram you put the orange wire in the middle, does it matter which side? Also do all of the blacks matter where they are located? I have a multi meter, but haven't broken it out yet. Have never used on low voltage. Is there is a chance that the switch is working but that I can't hear/see the difference?
@@Neonjer11 I believe I said orange wire, but meant to say yellow. Either way, I will just connect the yellow to the blacks directly to test a low speed.
@@tylergerber8638 ok so if the remote is cutting the speed, then the ESC is working. Yes the wires matter where they are on the switch. Do like you said and bypass the switch and directly ground the low pin#1
Also this wire set up is the same for the Moderno jeep if you was to add a break reduction module would you hook that up to pin 4? Cause Thers only 2 wires for the pedal
@brendenwoodruff1660 I'm sorry I was thinking steering. On braking we did try to lesson the brake tho it requires a capacitor and base on your setup and stoppage it may differ in size. Tho if I remember right it was similar to the steering. Be sure not to restrict the power to your motors and also the esc may see that added company and not function properly. For these reasons we did not recommend the mod.
Is the upgraded speed control necessary? Im wondering if i can just change to 24v gear box and motors and run 2 batteries in series and be good. I mean the 18v battery on the stock 12v system increased power and speed by 50% so i wouldnt see why it wouldnt double doing 24v. The problem is i burnt up my 12v motors lol
I’m trying to use my original shifter, pedal, on/off switch, and charging port and I can’t seem to get it working. I have power to my 7pin connector but I must be missing something. I can’t seem to find anyone to give me a straight answer. Should I just rip out all the original wiring and run new ones like in your video?
@@jamesoleary7560 did you or can you post some pics of the wiring and shift components to the Google Photos help link folder. Unfortunately these manufacturers have different components for the same bodies. The part all do the same its just figuring out which wire goes where, lol.
thank you so much for this video tutorial! i upgraded the BCP land rover ride on toy to use an 18v lithium ion drill battery and it seemed to be working fine until i heard a pop so i immediately stopped and looked for more information. the upgrade tutorial i watched was for power wheels so im glad i found this one specifically for the BCP. am i right in thinking that this upgrade would also work to use an 18v drill battery instead of two 12v SLA batteries in series? i ordered the 24v 30000RPM gearbox to replace the motors and the 24v RX30, and im planning on just switching those two things and keeping everything else stock. am i missing anything for this to work? thank you in advance!
The RX30 is a 24v setup. Using 18v may undervolt the Weelye esc and cause it not to work as intended. Some have tried this. Not sure if it works tho. If it does work you'll likely be slower not faster as your replacement motors will now require 24v not 12v. I've written a few voltage stats in the comments in the past. 24v/30,000rpm @18v you would be at 22,500rpm if the esc operates as intended
@@Neonjer11ok, I'll have to see if they sell 24v drill batteries that I can just swap out the adapter for. But for now, with all 24v components, it should be fine without any fire hazard or blowing motors with an 18v battery right? And if i wanted to use the 18v battery, it's definitely not ok to just keep the stock 12v motors on the wheels?
@DrNooob ya it should be. I would try the RX-30 w/ 18v see if it works. Leave the 12v motors for now. 18v to 12v motors isn't horrible persay just bear inmind the life of those motors will drop. I wouldn't change to the 24v motors on 18v battery don't think there will be enough juice to do what you want. Like I said I don't do it this way, only way I suggest is like the video cause it's the only way I have tested personally tested it. Hope this helps
@@Neonjer11 ok great, the rx30 is coming today so i should be able to swap that out easily. i installed the 18v drill battery adapter with a built in 30A fuse, and im also going to replace the 7A circuit breaker/fuse with 30A ones from amazon. i got worried because i thought i heard a pop after just replacing the stock SLA battery with the 18v drill, and i didn't want to fry the motors. for now, i'll hold off on replacing the motors and see how it holds up. also, in my BCP car, i can't seem to find the wiring that goes to the radio and lights. is it dangerous not to put in the 24v to 12v regulator?
Hi. I have a little question because i am on a car repair with this diagram. How id the current arriving on Forward-back Switch/high speed low speed and the pedal ?:) Thanks !!!
I’ve got a Uenjoy Jeep. Switched out to 24v motors. The 12v setup had both motors wired to one plug going to speed controller. With R30, do I separate the motors and plug each one into its own hole on R30?
I purchased mines in 2022 it has the parental remote control too. I don’t have the hi/lo either. And my on/off switch is wired different from the video. Theirs three prongs from the on/off switch. I just really need to know what to cut and splice. 1st red wire going to module. 2nd set white going to module. Red to radio. Thick Red to head/rear light switch. 3rd set 4-black wires going to lights and radio, 1 brown going to fed/rev. * I imagine I have to intercept the red to radio and red to light switch. And intercept the 4 blacks to lights and radio.
I am planning on following your outline - Very well done ! Recently I am having issues with the ESC lights staying on regardless of the switch being turned on and the radio unit does not work. I think the radio unit is shorted out somehow. My Question - I have looked for replacement radio unit pcb boards but I have come up empty on my 16hour + of searching.... have you come across replacement radio units or maybe have a schematic of the board ? Thank you.
@@Neonjer11 The model I have is: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082D4CYBP/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza It seems that the majority of the radio units are the same between these 12v ride on brands (weelye, BC, etc...), with slight differences. If I was able to find one for sale I could make it work. I am not able to locate any radio units .... Was hoping you may have found a site or link in your electrical adventures. Thank you for the quick reply !
I'm repairing my grandson's car and have purchased a new controller & remote R9AA-2G4-6V and the pinout is different. The new controller has pins labled V,CD,G,K which I don't know where to connect them or what the letters mean. The other pins +,-,f2,b2,f1,b1 arn't a problem. With your expertise can you help? thanks
@@Neonjer11 That's the problem there is no wiring diagram for either car, the old and the new controller a model R9AA-2G4-6v. With some experimenting I have identified what V and G signals do but not the other signals. I have searched extensively on the net for the component details so I could reverse engineer the circuit. On the receiver pca there are 2 chips 8 pin dip labeled BSJ 1598H and the other a 20 pin sop BSJ R2403ZY. The 8 pin chips drive the motors, they wish. I have ordered 2 x 43A Dual BTS7960B H-bridge Driver Board 6-27V and will bypass the 8 pin drivers. Why I need the description is to be able to wire the new receiver board into the existing wiring, a 6V Mini Cooper S rollplay.com/en-us/drive/mini-s-6v Thanks
Could I use ~18v with the rx30? Also, Do I need to add a high/low switch? Could I just use a voltage controller to control the voltage & adjust the voltage with another regulator before the radio/lights?
@@artvandelay4914 you might be able to use a 20v battery(I know you wanna use a drill battery)but if it did work keep in mind it may be slightly slow then if you used 24. Also using 2x20 and regulate the power to 24v is pointless imo. If I was a gambling man I would try the 20v see if it’s enough to operate the rx30 but don’t forget to have a regulator for the 12v stuff
@@Neonjer11 ok thank you for your advice :) i will try using rx30 with ~20v. may ask why itd be pointless to do 2 batteries at 40v then drop it to 24v?
It just seems like a waste of battery personally if you setup works you'd have a second battery for run time. They other way you would have to charge them both to get your 24v. These are reasons why I just suggest the regular 24v setup. But if it works and your good with it, do it
Very good detailed video on the upgrade. I'm planning on running a set of Ryobi 18v 4.0ah batteries to my upgraded RX30/24v 30k rpm motors/speed controller. Would a regulator really be that important or would a 6v increase to the radio and lights be an issue? I upgraded the 12v motors from 9k to 40k RPM motors (i currently run two 12v7ah batteries in parallel for longevity) and the batteries die MUCH faster. And I've noticed since the motors dont have as much torque, the car turns off if the motors are loaded going through mud sometimes...and have to wait 30s or so for it to automatically turn back on. This only happened on the stock set up once or so if i pushed it, with the motor upgrades, its constant under any major load. Im hoping with the 24v motors, running an 18v battery, i can run it at 100% without overloading the motors.
Some say they have run the 18v on the rx30, tho I personally never test it on 18v, also keep in mind if you upgrade motor to 24v, @18v it will be slower as you will under power the motor by 25% if you leave the 12v motors @ 18v you will overvolt at 25%, it will be fast but the life of the motors will be shortened not sure how the Weelye esc will act as it may trip due to the load it sees. The issue you described sounds like the motors are worn and need replaced it's not a battery issue imo as for the light and radio yes 12v only
Also the high the rpm the less torque you will have so if you off reading with 40k lol it probably will give u issue, 30k-40k is black top parking lot riding where not much torque is needed, I would go 18k if possible for balance stock is I think like 10k-12k rpm
@@Neonjer11 thanks for the replies... the stock motors were 550/12v/9k rpm. they're cheap enough I could buy a set of 18k rpm motors for the 12v set up just to have.... but the motors in it now at 40k rpm are brand new...first time using them too yesterday actually. they work great on pavement...but in mud or water they tend to do the internal shutoff thing...so i figured they were just being overloaded. I was hoping the 18v battery would work with the 24v set up and just be safe from overloading anything..but at minimum it soundsl ike I'll need to get a regulator for the lights and radio or risk burning them up. Thanks again for the reply!
24v, and the motor connections aren't powered (yet?). the remote/receiver flashing thing still doesn't do anything. As a separate question, if I have the receiver all hooked up as you specified does and get the tx paired does that deactivate the power on function of the receiver?
Not sure which port type they use but Amazon may have something that fits. If you upgrading the charger figure out what connecter your gonna use and maybe expoy or JB weld a fitted piece for the charger port
I'm wondering if converting from the 12 volt motors to the 24 volt motors would change anything. Like, would running 24 volt motors on 24 volts be the same thing as running 12 volt motors on 12 volts? Because I'm about to order 24 volt 550 motors for my son's off-brand power Wheels Lamborghini. It had 12 volt 570 motors before. And I burnt them up with a 18 volt battery lol. I'm wondering if the 24 volt motors running on 24 volts would be the same or if they're actually faster
so you over-volted your 12v motors w/ 18v battery, and they burnt up. that's expected. 12v motors made for 12v battery. it will works on 18v just cut life of the motors or at worst burn them up right away. 24v lowers the amp load. your top speed depends on your rpm. tho the higher your rpm, usually less torque. on the jeeps 18k rpm seemed to be a good spd/torque. there plenty of information on the net if you want more information on technical.
@@Neonjer11Sweet. Do you know any websites where I could get more technical information? I can't really find a whole lot. Most people are just overclocking their 12 volt motors with 18 volts. I'm going to assume on my new 24 volt motor setup I ordered, even though it's 200 W instead of 50 watt, if the RPMs of the motor are the same as the 12 volt setup, running 24 volt on the new motors will be the same as running 12 volt on the old motors, I will just have more power and torque. I would have to overclock the 24 volt motors to 36 volts if I actually wanted to hire speed, huh? At least the new motors are 40,000 RPM instead of 35
@@Neonjer11I would say I will have enough raw power with the new setup to run a 12-point gear instead of 10 point. And that will get me my extra speed. Are the pinion gears changeable on those motors? I noticed they are press fit instead of having a set screw like an RC car
@stevenjenkins5415 I mean anything can be done if you wanna spend the time and money. we'll I mean with AI bot you could use Bing and ask the bot ant questions if your looking for tech specs. your kinda on you own once your start to customize. changing pinion and such can work if done right. tho there's always a trade off spd for torque. figure our what your build requires. if the kid is heavy probably lean on torque spec 24v runs same at less load (less strain on motor) same as electric in your house. if no hills torque is usually not a deal breaker the jeeps and trucks usually kids are off roading in grass and hills.
@@Neonjer11Right.....but since my 24v setup is 200w vs 70 watt, I think I would have the power to go to a 12 tooth pinion and get him some more speed. I might have to make custom motor mounts to move the motor around to make room for a bigger pinion. Cuz I think these ones just have 2 solid bolt holes, don't they? There's an adjustment slot on RC cars for the motor mount screw when you change pinion size
@@Neonjer11 yeah, just found it. Thank you. I'll probably be back with more questions. I think I fried the board of my kids power wheels. Converted to 24 volts, it drove for 5 feet and was done. Did you send me over from Reddit? Whoever did, this video is going to really help me out!
Ya I gave you the link I also added the JR replacement Controllers in the reddit post for you. You can just buy a 24v and swap it if you have the same plugs
@@Neonjer11 did you delete your comment over on reddit? That was the most helpful comment on my post and I can't find it. I'm trying to find the regulator you used in this video.
@@Neonjer11 also in the video you mentioned the Trax motors aren't going to work with this modular. Because they'll shut off. What would you suggest for replacement motors for a Dodge Ram Trax Dually? I'm planning to run 18 or 24 volts.
Hi there, I've just picked up a 12v 200w rx34... I love your video and it has explained almost everything I need to know, my only concern left is that my rx34 has a 7 pin connector instead of a 6 and I don't know what the 7th pin goes to... I assume the pins should still run the same as you've described them from left to right but that leaves me with an exposed pin and no idea what it's for, hope you or someone can help!
I'm not sure if this question was already asked( looked but didn't find)... Will any 24v to 12v converter work? To run the lights, radio, 12v accessories, ect.. I was looking on Amazon and I have a choice on a 5A or 10A.
I have this Jeep but mine does not come with the HIGH LOW SWITCH. It has a shifter that is HIGH LOW and REVERSE? Do I need to make a separate switch like you have in this video?
No it the same thing just all in one. If you have a weelye control board(esc) it should be plug and play less the 12v accessories that require a regulator
The weelye esc doesn’t have a 20v only 6v/12v/24v that I know of. You would have to try an rx30 with the 20v battery and regulate the 12v stuff. Tho no guarantees it will be enough to power a 24v sec.
I just completed the 24V upgrade with new RX30, new RS550 30K RPM motors. Have done a couple of test runs in the backyard on St.Augustine grass in about 90 degree weather . ECM seems to trip after about 5 - 10mins of use. It resets pretty quickly, thinking it may be over heating. Motors get 135+ degrees also. Wondering if it's the terrain, ECM, bad motors, or something else??
Ok I have the two motor 12v version. I bought 2 24v motor/ gearboxes. I want to run the motors on external battery and accessories on stock 12v. Can't figure how to wire it so only motors get the external battery power but will still turn on with car. Might be something simple but I can't see it😢. Help if possible
Thanks for replying. I don't know if that would work for me because your still using factory battery. I only want the 12v factory supplying accessories. 18v ryobi (2 wired in parallel if I can) to run the motors. Or am I just making it difficult for myself? They are th 18v battery holder everyone uses for these conversions
The remote is an over ride from what the kid does in the truck. When talking about the polarity being switched: Some 12v weelye models when converting to 24v the steering can be reversed for the remote (left & right) just switch them and it will fix it if they are backward. As for the motors. Same thing the motor lead can be switched just make sure everything works properly for the rider
Thanks For the content! Is there anyway to make the braking softer so it puts less strain on the gear box. I’ve looked into ML toys brake module ( which is a resistor ) but requires three wires. Doesn’t work with this set up. Do you have any idea how ?
Unfortunately there is no way to add a resistor on a board controlled ride-on without sacrificing speed. Theoretically the only way to brake softer would be to is to add some sort of capacitor near the motors using some sort of capacitor meaning adding something that stores just enough power for the motor to draw from when the power is cut. I'm not sure if this will actually work on a board controlled unit. I would advise against it. I have not tried this.
I have found that on the remote at least, if you tap the forward button a bit instead of just letting off, it comes to a gradual stop. Instead of snapping their neck. So maybe pumping the brakes or gas would help?
I have the rx74 and it has the hi low switch but the car stays on full speed with the remote and with the pedal. I bought another kit , the same. Same issue. Don’t know what else to do. If u would help i would so appreciate it
I did it exactly as you have it wired. The power light flickered on and then stopped. Not sure why.... I re hooked it up for 12 V and works fine so no fuses blew
@Neonjer11 I wired it as demonstrated in the video. I pushed the power button down, the red light went on for like a fraction of a second, and then turned off, no power. Why does it work when I remove a battery, but doesn't work when I add a second?
@Madbiochemist16 so if I understand correctly you are adding a 2nd battery ran in "Series" not "Parallel" and are switching the esc to the RX30 24V model correct?
@Madbiochemist16 make sure your getting power to the switch and after the switch is on. Both side should read 24v. If they don't you may hVe a bad switch or possibly wired incorrectly. Dbl check all your wiring, sounds like a short or a wire going to the wrong place. Remember some models are wired different in the car you must verify your lines are going to the proper place. Let me know how you make out. Also feel free to post pics in the Google help folder in the link
I have a 6v car Do I still need to upgrade the board if I’m only doing a 18v swap? Ik my lights would get fried so I was thinking about getting rid of the accessories completely and not hooking them up
6v motor on 18v battery would not work. Also the stock board will fry only good for 6v Also Weelye doesn’t make a 18v model. You can attempt to use the 24v model but no guarantee it will work with 18v
I've gone down about 12 rabbit holes on this project and this is my favorite video thus far. Very well explained. You're saving fathers around the country lots of time. Thank you.
You're right about the rabbit holes on these things. I just need a how to and a parts list and it's been so difficult to find.
Somehow, even with this excellent tutorial I still managed to spend about 20 hours on this project before claiming success. I've learned I'm not good at soldering, and to check a fuse instead of buying a new multimeter thinking the cheap harbor freight one was broken when no voltage was going to the 30 rx unit. Thanks for taking the time and putting this together.
Thank you
Bought all the stuff to replace a dead battery in my kids powerwheels jeep (or so I thought)... only to realize it had this type of harness and control module. I wish youtube had given this video in my search earlier, you just saved me a ton of time not having to figure out the harness! Thanks so much for this!
Glad it help!
My daughter's jeep had the led 2 speed shifter and the circuit board went out. I purchased a basic Fwd Rev shifter but had no clue how to wire it till I found this vid. Great job thanks!
This was exactly what I have been looking for! Thank you for the great video and layout.
Thank you so much for your help, I found an old buggy type car on the verge that was left out in the elements for years and with your precise instructions I managed to get it going with a new wiring harness off amazon and a lot of disassembly and assembly
learning as I went along and now a piece of junk is now going to find a new home for a little one somewhere. so greetings from Mandurah in Western Australia Stay safe and well.
That's awesome great work feel free to post a pic/video in the Google Photos link
Thank you for your reply, I would like to get the lights going on this car, is there a replacement item for either the globe or the light that could be ordered on line somewhere, many thanks.
I just realised my little car is similar to the one on your video thumbnail, but black and white, cheers.
@@Max46423 what light are you referring ?
Sorry the little front headlights, round shape
Mine didn’t have the hi/lo in it and the wiring coming from the controller seemed a lot different than your setup. It wasn’t as “cut and play” so I ended up just buying the whole upgrade kit on Amazon with the correct wiring components. I’m sure I could follow each of the wires but that just seems like trouble waiting to happen as I’m a rookie when it comes to electrical. Thanks for posting this. It was very helpful either way
I purchased mines in 2022 it has the parental remote control too. I don’t have the hi/lo either. And my on/off switch is wired different from the video. Theirs three prongs from the on/off switch.
I just really need to know what to cut and splice.
1st red wire going to module.
2nd set white going to module. Red to radio. Thick Red to head/rear light switch.
3rd set 4-black wires going to lights and radio, 1 brown going to fed/rev.
* I imagine I have to intercept the red to radio and red to light switch.
And intercept the 4 blacks to lights and radio.
Anyone have an issue with the push button becoming hot? Did this exact conversion, running the regulator in between outgoing power from power button and radio/lights. Wires all feel fine, just push button seems a bit hotter than it should. Tsgraphics thank you for this vid! Gave me the confidence to do the conversion. Daughters expression was priceless!
I've haven't heard of this but you can always swap it out for a better built one or one that has a higher voltage rating
Great video. I have a couple questions:
I would like to keep the remote steering capabilities. Do I need a regulator on those wires too, to step it down to 12v?
Also, is the charging port useless after the upgrade? I see your amazon links are to a generic multi-voltage charger, something that doesn't look like it would plug into the charging port.
So I have a video on the steering plz check it out and see if this is what you need.
The charging port can be replaced I recommend adding a new one or just directly charging the battery individually(12v) or together (24v)
@@Neonjer11 You're awesome! Thanks!
Very helpful video which helped me to wire my RX37! Very much appreciated!
did you make your own harness?
@@ianferguson6616 yes, no other way... but even after wiring it all still the car is restarting after full throttle is on. Will just build it up completely from scratch without the remote and amen.
@@krunoslavuzelac8809 how did it go? I’m hoping that the kit I got on Amazon is good but will wire my own if I have to
Its still in my todo list :)
Why does the switch need to have 24volts going to it? Couldn't you put the volt reducer on the red and black wires coming from the controller?
Any way to fix the accelerator so it doesn’t insta stop when you let off?
Yes you can use a capacitor near each motor. That should help
Great vid. Love the walk through.
This is a solid vid, nice job man!
Hi my friend and Thank You so much for this video, my upgrade went pretty well because of this video. I only have one question and that Is driving me crazy, now my son's jeep is a bit faster then I was thinking and tried hooking up the yellow wire as you directed and it seems to slow down a little but not as much as i would like. I have tried installing a PWM so i can turn down the speed to the motors and this worked perfected. However doing this caused him not to be able to go in revers for some reason and lost his gas pedal. So the way i have wired up the pwm was taking the wire that plugs into the motor port on the rx30 and cutting it now putting quick disconnect on the two ends one going into the rx30 port then wire into the pwm input. next running out of the pwm connecting directly to the wires going to the motors. like i said this worked perfectly i was able to slow down the jeep but I no longer had gas pedal function or reverse. Any tips to help with this would be greatly appreciated .. Thanks a million again you are a life saver for sure not mention a mentor to many!
PWM is a one way feed usually. The rx-30 reverses the polarity of the motors for reverse. Maybe search and see if there is a model PWM that will also sense the switching polarity when switching to reverse. Otherwise I'd just remove it
Amazing video. But my shifter has the low and high mode on the shift. Is there a way for me to connect a pedal regulator instead of one that is just on and off
No that would be a variable switch in that case it would be a completely different system setup. Most common is the disassembling of a drill. Using the trigger as a pedal switch and a direct battery hookup not needing a ESC because you are using all the drill internals. Not sure about the pros/cons of that setup tho.
Truly a great video. I did the conversion today step by step watching this. I had to make a couple tweaks but would have never figured it out without you. One thing, when the car had two kids in it, something is overheating and the auto resetting. I’m guessing it is the auto fuse I left in place. Any idea what size I should replace this with?
@@JoshHowman the fuse is the to protect. Chances are with 2 kids depending on weight the motors may be straining cause the trip. The lower rpm motors have more torque but less top end speed. This might be a fix for you. Other wise you other options are increase to a 570 size motor for a bit motor torque and size and or roll the dice and up the fuse size. This all being said, I assume it works fine with one kid?
@@Neonjer11 Yes sir works great with 1 child. I didn't mention, I have the 12V motors in it still. I figured I might as well burn them up before I swap in the 24V motors. Do you think that could be causing the over amp?
@@JoshHowman that's your issue then 12v motor are probably stressing as your overvolting and add weight
Probably really fast too but it won't last long just fyi
Man, this video worked great for me to repair a 24v ride on i had. I just had mine go out again and i thought just swapping the board may get me goin again but now it does nothing. It seems to be getting power but nothing happens when i push the pedal. Any ideas? Could the pedal switch be bad? How would i go about finding out what may be keeping it from running? Batteries for sure are good and i have a new board. Same as before
If you have a remote i would try that first. If the remote works it soming you wired wrong or that isnt making contact. jump the pedal wires first. a common problem. Also next you can jump the shift fwd or rev. I'd start there as long as you 100% the batteries are good and no fuse has blown.
I will try jumping those items first thing in morning to test that out! I didnt think of just trying that. Thank you for the quick reply!
Exactly what I was looking to do to re-assure myself in my planning of my project. we took the exact same approach. Do you mind updating the amazon links? I cant decide on a 24v charger. I did upgrade the wiring from battery to ESC/controller and from ESC/controller to motors for less voltage drop.
I'll check it out
What a great video to learn from. I have a little bit different wiring harness that I’m trying to figure out for my daughters Best Choice Range Rover. The power on/off switch has a bunch of wires coming into it and I’m not sure which ones to cut to be able to put the 24v-12v resistor on. Any way you might be able to give me some advice? I have a picture of the wires going into the on/off switch
@@joshosich22 post them in the Google photos link and will check it out!
@@Neonjer11I’m not sure how to do that.
@@joshosich22 there should be a link in the description
@@Neonjer11 thank I posted there
Great details on the video with explanation. I have an electronic 12/24vdc controller on the kidszone jeep my granddaughter uses. JR1927M-Z. Is there a harness/ kit that interfaces with that controller and remote. I’ve already purchased the 24v 30000 rpm motors/gearbox. Thanks
Remember the 30,000 rpm motors at top end will be faster but you will lose some torque depends on weight of child and terrain on how much it will affect start speed
Amazon has Weelye kits that include every part included a harness but none with just a harness only. Tho you can get the Lipo pin Harness as listed in the description
Good to know about the 12v for the radio and lights. If the radio is upgraded to 24v, will the lights still need to be on 12v? Had anyone put the lights and radio on a separate battrey?
ya anything is possible. video is for best and simplest install hange over. still need 12v unless you upgrade those too. I'm sure amazon has 24v leds. separate battery is possible but then extra switches and wires plus I recommend small battery to reduce the weight if separating the lights
Yes. Been 2 years in the making and them here u come to show me just about all I was needing. The thing I'm needing to know is I'm gonna use the rx-30 on a 4x4 system. Will 24v 22ah battery be enough? Plus the premade wire harness that comes with the rx-30 and 4x4 setup doesnt gave the radio and light pig tails. I theory I should be able to wire the 12 reg somewhere into the power switch to when the switch is on its providing power to the regulator and onto the accessory? Does that sound correct to anyone. I dont wanna fry any control boards or solder anymore blown capacitors. Lol. Had one blow off the board and put a hole right in the case. Replaced the 330uf and bam. Back rolling. Board has a over draw problem tho and that's why I'm changing everything out.
Ya it should be good
Did you get this to work with the 4WD?
This is amazing, thank you so much for the info!
I am back and happy to report your help was very much appreciated. I have the Power Wheels both running off my Ryobi 18v batteries but I appear to have burned the motor on the Dodge Ram Kids Trax. Do you have a recommendation for the gear box and motor for up to 24 volts?
Are they both Powerwheels brand? If so 7R gearbox made for 17t pinion. Install your choice of 24v. Peg Perego brand uses "Johnson" they are very reliable. tho any 550 or 570 motor will work. Hope this helps
I have a quick video on the Powerwheels Bruteforce completely overhauled. Has the same setup. The thing is a beast.
Also the stock gearboxs should be fine since the RX30 has the slow start. BestChoice Jeep have the cheap gearboxes and they work just fine
Also the 570 is a little bigger and is the same fitment size as a 550 if you need that little extra torque
@@Neonjer11 ok thank you for the information. I'll check them out. The Trax, I don't think they are power wheels brand. The Dodge seems to go by Trax everywhere I look and the green buggy with two speeds halls ass but I got it at Costco and when I search for it online I don't find much in terms of support or information but the gear boxes look similar to the weelye options on Amazon.
@@AlexErika ya the cheap one use Weelye products
You really went all out on this! You sir, are the GOAT. I know we spoke of how the forward/reverse lever works off of grounds, but when I first hooked up 24v without the regulator it seemed to have burned up the Forward/reverse switch but only one polarity not both ways. I've replaced it now and currently running at 12v until I complete the upgrade and is working. My question is, is there anyway it could have actually burned it out? It was working fine before I fried everything haha. I think that's where some confusion came on upgrading it for me when looking at the other video/pictures as I saw no connection to the lever from regulator. If it only works off of grounds is there something I'm missing? I will hook everything up like you did when I get the time, but I don't want to ruin another lever and have to keep my daughter waiting even longer haha. Thank you for the time you've put into this I really appreciate it, you've done an awesome job. Seeing the harness out and the connection of the regulator answered all questions about the placement immediately. Now I'm just unsure of burning out the forward/reverse again, though if I do it's not like they are very expensive.
@Frank Torrano I think you'll be fine. You maybe over thinking it. I tried to explain how the wires interact with the ESC for knowledge, hoping not to confuse anyone. Follow the layout and you should be fine.
What an awesome video! One question, would it be possible to just add a separate 24v battery and plug into a 24v motor and have that separate circuit be controlled via a relay. That relay would be in place of the 12v control board engine connection. So I would still leave a small 12v battery in the system to run the radio and control board and have a separate 24v circuit running the engines?
I'm sure you could but it would defeat the purpose of upgrading the stock parts. As in you would be making a custom system
Just got a 12v Jeep for my daughter and want to do this mod and more :)
This is a great tutorial but the wiring pics and diagram link is broken. Any chance you could fix it please?
Ok link updated just add yourself to the folder and you'll be good
Great video! Thanks for the wiring diagram.
Is there any chance you’d know if a brake reduction system could be fitted to this? I only have the two wire pedal, similar the diagram you have. Not the three wire plunger pedal that works with the MLtoys module.
That's because the brake module they make is not for use with ESC it's for battery direct units. The ESC in the best choice models have the brake built in. The only way I would think would be to add a capacitor on each motor lead to lessen the brake. tho I can't be sure if it will work and with which capacitor size cause I have never attempted
Off topic question, I noticed your sweatshirt is the same color and has the same tag on the sleeve as my FR hoodies I got from the utility where I did my apprenticeship. You by chance a fellow lineman or do some other high voltage work? You obviously know your way around electrical circuits more than the average DIYer also, so I had to ask.. Great video by the way, super thorough..
Very possible i have utilitiy experience. also low voltage 6v-24v from younger years w/cctv, fire/burg, car and boat stereo and lighting.
Can you help me? I upgraded to the 24v controller on a 4x4 best choice hummer, and upgraded motors. It constantly trips the 23a auto resetting fuse. Any ideas?
Need more info? Motors , esc , battery setup.....
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for the response. I added a M18 Milwaukee battery, and upgraded the ESC to the RX30. I also added a voltage shutoff and motor controller to slow it down for the little ones. It works great at about half speed on the motor controller, but blows the fuse on grass and if I increase the potentiometer any further. I thought upgrading the motors/gearboxes to 24v would fix it, but it's almost worse. I increased wiring to 14ga, but will need to go larger if I increase that fuse.
When it does trip the breaker, it shuts off for a second, then restarts on is own, and repeats until I get it on flat ground. It's drawing a large amount of current at the slow start it appears. Doesn't make a difference if I unplug a set of motors (4x4 so 4 motors)
@@floppyebrokent8578 so your under powering the RX30 with 18v. It really wasn't designed to run at 18v and then get undervalued again, the RX30 thinks the is a problem based on the load and shuts off, after a few it should reset, your best bet is to do one of the following. 1st go 24v(I know everyone loves drill batteries,
lol) but if you having load issues that's probably why.
1. 24v battery- use the remote to set speed.
2. Install a Hi/low switch
3. Put the 12v controller in till your kids ready for the extra speed
Add things inline to change the volt to the motors or esc will most likely end with a trip
@@Neonjer11 sounds good. I'll hook up two 12v batteries and try again. It does have a high/low switch, so that should help with speed. I left the 12v guts, so that's always an option as well, but probably won't play well with 24v motors now.
That all said, I'll try the two batteries to give it 24v. If that works, do you think I could add another M18 in series, and add a 24v buck regulator? I'll either remove the motor controller, or move it after the RX30. Good call there!
Great video! I am looking to tackle this 24V upgrade soon. I have a couple questions regarding some of the components:
1. Can I use the stock 18ga wires for the battery and motor wires? If not, should I switch for 16ga or 14ga?
2. (only if i need to switch the wires) where can I get the terminals for the wire connectors or proper ga pigtails with connectors installed?
You can use the stock I haven't had any issues. If you did want to upgrade you only need to upgrade the motor and battery leads.
Thanks for the quick reply. I, like a previous comment mentioned, was thinking of just placing a 12V regulator on the red/blk coming from the ecm, going to the power switch. But you mentioned the white wire feeds the voltage back to the ecm and it needs 24V to function properly.
This got me wondering could I just use the 12V (RX-19) with a 12V regulator placed as mentioned above? The ecm will have its 12V (coming down the white wire) and the 24V won't hurt the system as it just passes through to the motors once the relay is triggered. What are your thoughts?
Just peeked inside the RX-19. Looks like the relays are only 15A instead of the 30A/40A inside the RX30, so guess it may not work...
@@wevans4007 ya you could try that. Tho not sure the reason of that? I assume because you wanna use the drill batteries? It could work of you set it up right
I'm looking to get the correct connector from the Controller to the Steering motor (I still have the 12V motor and its not the same connector/terminal) would you have any advice on where to find these ? Btw, great video, your are THE video I was looking for !
Not sure on the steering it's a 2 wire motor?
@@Neonjer11 yes but the pins are different, too bad I can't post a pic
@@Avtomav you can in Google photos link in the description or use imgur.com
@@Neonjer11 UA-cam doesn't like Imgur links : slash a slash gXcaqSY
Hi I don’t know if I can do this and I thought I would ask you since your the best teacher I’ve seen on this topic. I have a power wheel and I am trying to do a ryobi 40V conversion. My question to you is can I add a ryobi 40V convertion + a voltage regulator to step down to 24V + a remote control box. Will this be too much for the harness or can I do it? If I can, could you do a video of all that or explain the order starting from the battery…
I am not 100% sure but I assume you can step down the voltage to 24v if you get the right step-down regulator. Some people have had successfully done this but I am not sure of the parts used. Good.luck
Going to try this again, first post didn't go through. I found a 24v battery with same dimensions. Hooked it up, everything works as expected. Even comes with charger that plugs into factory port. I'll post link separately in case that's what made my post fail. I'm going to try to use other battery bay for a dedicated 12v accessory battery to get rid of regulator. Is there any way to get the remote steering working off that 12v battery to make it smoother?
Can i run second 24v in parallel to increase run time of i keep voltage reg?
@@saldanajoel 24v parallel will increase AH or amp hrs. This determines how long your run is. Go dual 24v 12ah batteries and you'll be fine add the regulator for 12v accessories. And I have a video on the steering unless you wanna go the route of adding relays, but imo not worth the relay cause the kids learn fast
Fantastic demo how things work,gold star rating
Great video, this is what I was actually looking for to see if the controllers interchange easily.
Keep up the good work.
Glad I could help
@@Neonjer11 hi at the minute 34:20 you said. What do you mean tighten motor or titan motor? I don’t know. Well I have an issue the relay that you’re said is getting triggered. This are the voltage are getting in the 7 pins harness.
Power input 24v
Power output 12v
Ground 24v
Back 3V ,Forward 3V , H and L 2.90V
@xavi-12 Titan Motor brand. it's a good Motor but don't work well with the esc
@@Neonjer11 thank you. Esc the relay is getting triggered… any other time while my daughter are driving. What do you think is the issue.
@xavi-12 if the motors are worn. I would say the esc is seeing a high load cause the Motor is struggling. replace it and you should be fine.
Thank you! Detailed explanation.. I want to commend you!
Incredible master class you have created here. I have a different question. My grandson's Jeep cuts out after a short while. I replaced the therma fuse attached to the battery but didn't solve the problem. Any ideas what else could cause it?
Is it stock? If yes how much usage on the motors?
Typically the ESC trip due to strain on the ESC meaning something is drawing to much. Weak or worn motors can due this. Also a battery going bad or just the terrain can do it but that's usually corrected by not going crazy driving lol. My best guess would be motors tho
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for quick reply. It is stock. They had attached a wagon to it and it started sometime after that. It was driven mostly in the grass, I think and their lawn isn't completely flat.
@@RetiredTony54 motors are probably worn. You can upgrade to 12v 570 style motors this will help with the stress from towing lol
@@Neonjer11 Will look into it. Appreciate your response and advice. Thanks a bunch!
I just completed the 24V upgrade with new RX30, new RS550 30K RPM motors. Have done a couple of test runs in the backyard on St.Augustine grass in about 90 degree weather . ECM seems to trip after about 5 - 10mins of use. It resets pretty quickly, thinking it may be over heating. Motors get 135+ degrees also.
Wondering if it's the terrain, ECM, bad motors, or something else??
Im trying to fix my son's Ride on car and it has the RX30 controller in it, we've lost the remote so I ordered a TX20 remote. However I'm unable to pair it up with the controller. I followed pretty much all the steps, the remote goes into the pairing mode but fails after about a minute or so. is the RX30 controller compatible with the TX20? or you think it might be a faulty RX30 controller?
ps. The car works fine by itself, its just the remote that doesn't want to pair.
@@alexbron9818 so the way I've done it. have the remote in pairing then turn on the truck. Should find the truck and connect
I'm not familiar with the TX20 so it may not be compatible too, good luck
@@Neonjer11 hey tnx for your reply 👍. Yes that's how I tried to pair as well. No luck unfortunately 😕
Can you walk me through the wiring for the hi/low switch? It appears the yellow comes from the middle contact on the plug and the ground comes from the hi side of the switch. Does it matter which wire it connects to when going to the pedal?
So on the RX30 as shown in the Google Photos link in the description...
Pin #1 is your "low" trigger wire. Meaning when connected to ground it will tell the Weelye Control to put it in (Low/). When it is not connected to ground it will run at the rated speed or (/Hi). So as for you question yes it matters tho it's basically a on off switch 😉. When you buy the Weelye hi/low it come as a 6pin not a 2 or 3pin but you could use whatever you want. I just try to keep it to stock parts when explaining stuff especially if someone already has it stock.
@@Neonjer11 thanks, so which two pins do I need to connect to to be able to run low speed? I’m currently connected to the middle pin and “hi” side pin on same side. But it doesn’t change speed. Thanks in advance
@@benrasnick1396 pin 1 (low) and pin 4(ground). you will not see a difference if you use the remote as it overrides anything the driver does. You may also not see a difference until a load is introduced. Just food for thought. Good luck
What about the best choice variants that have the on/off button integrated into the lights/horn/engine control board? Can this board handle more than 12 v?
I just did a 24 volt conversion on mine with the same set up you have and it fried the control board immediately. I'm also wondering how to make this work
Could I do the same thing using a 20v lithium drill battery?
I want to make it faster so considered doing exactly as you have in the video. However I like that the power toll batteries can be charged a hell of a lot faster.
Would a 20v power the rx30? Thanks.
@@vvastonvv ya but the rx30 requires 24v so you would be under powering the unit so it would be slower. Also potentially tripping the internal safety
can I just leave pin 1 Open if I don't have the high/low switch? I plan on just swapping the board and factory wiring doesn't have the high low switch. I apologize if you went over this in the video but I kinda skipped through it.
Yes if you leave it out it's the same as having it in the Hi position
@@Neonjer11 I have a fuse that goes from the power button to the headlight on/off switch. Does that get brought in to the stepdown or leave it as is?
@@UhOh6.0 I would keep it on the 12v side
Hi tsrgraphics..
So I recently bought a remote control ausom 12v truck 2 seater off amazon.. I ended up putting a 20v dewalt drill battery conversion on it. Ran a 30 fuse from battery to a power supply knob. I only ever ran it on about %25 power and it was plenty for our 7 month old,(we ran the remote). After a few drives the pedal and all controller functions stopped working. Everything turns on.. radio, horn, lights, everything but the pedal/remote.
Do you have any clue what could be causing this?
I thought maybe it was the 12v control box so I bought a 24v one and same issue, everything works but no acceleration/turning. I’ve also hooked the battery straight to each motor and both work A-okay.
Thanks for any information you can provide!
Try checking the pedal or shifter for a bad connection. The remote has to be re-synced if you swapped ESCs. Also by any chance did anything get wet or left outside
Thanks for the fast reply! Both connections are good.. I did re-sync the controller. Old one had stopped working also. Would the shifter and pedal affect the remote control? Sorry kind of new at this stuff.
Also in the foot pedal, there’s only a little chip with the wires glued in, and a spring. I don’t see how it would get information on how far the pedal is being pushed down. Almost seems like something came off maybe?
Hasn’t gotten wet though, 2 day old power wheel. Thanks so much for the help here.
@@tyson16stewart No, the Remote overrides any manual functionality
The pedal is just a momentary switch (on when pressed down, off when released) there's no in-between.
Running 20v you may have tripped the fuse inline near the motors. These are secondary fuses usually located near the rear close to the motors. Usually one for each motor. 20v could definitely blow those since they are only rated based on a 12v setup. Just a thought
Also to narrow it down is it just the motors? Does your steering work thru the remote?
Nope the steering doesn’t work either. Just disassembled the whole thing and verified there’s no fuses by the motors.
I just don’t understand what it could be. Wish we had a repair shop for these things close by in Illinois 🤨
Great video! Best I have seen for this yet! I have the Best Choice Jeep and also the Costco Green Sand Dune one that I am going to upgrade to use some Ryobi 18V batteries. Have you had any experience with running the 18v through the RX30? I am assuming if I run it through the current controller it will burn it up since it is 12v...but wasn't sure if the 24v controller would accept the lower voltage without any problems. I am not too concerned about the parental control anymore or the steering.
Some, not me have said it works
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for the quick reply. I figure it has to work better than sending 18vDC through the 12vDC controller. Again great video!
@@gulfstream5az Hey Jason, if you tried and/or got an answer, I would appreciate. My sons got 2 jeep with a 12V controller and I happen to have a lot of Ryobi 18V packs, taht would be ideal but I'm still trying to think what would be the best way. I think you are right sending 18V to the controller might fry up everything (12V for lights, MP3 etc AND the steering motor)... Let me know, I would appreciate. Thanks !
@@Avtomav any updates on this? I just bought two 18v ryobi battery adapters for my daughters BC Jeep. I bought all 24v upgrades (motors, RX30/etc and a speed controller), and am hoping the 18v batteries will power the 24v components without any issues. I'm only really concerned about the 12v lights/radio stuff but Ive heard it shouldnt burn anything up. But a regulator may be a good precaution...
@@dham99 unfortunately, the 18V Ryobi are great for a PWM controller but for 24V controller, the Ryobi aren't useful.. you should use 2 Mighty Max 12V batteries in serie.
Could you regulate the voltage to 12 on the wire going to the on off switch then everything would stay 12 volt except motors .... just thinking thanks for the great video
Yes you are doing that, tho on the output side of your switch, still need the 24v pin 7 to feed pin 6 to turn on/off the esc and work. This is why we split it
@@Neonjer11 I don't understand this response. You said the controller is just relaying the power. Why would the on/of switch need 24v?
@DOBICONJT follow the wiring diagram and you will see 24 volts gets split after the switch so that everything can power ON at the same time. the split and voltage reg happens after the switch.
@@Neonjer11how would you get around this if you have a radio circuit board and not as simple as the diagram you have provided?
@@adamo7015 it depends on if your radio is also the ESC. If not and it is separate. Then it's possible. You would probably have to run a separate main switch to split power
How is the braking after the conversion? More harsh? And is there a way to improve braking or removing it in this set up? I understand the mtl brake module doesn’t work in this setup but I’ve been trying to brainstorm ways to adjust the braking
Well braking is set by the esc. The mlt brake mod doesn't work because that is not made for esc devices, only direct battery.
I want to add ML Toys brake reduction module. Where would I put it since accelerator pedal switch has only two wires compared to power wheels three wires.
As far a I know the capacitor Is to be placed on the power wire on Powerwheels pedal which likely doesn't use a ESC. The Weelye ESC is "Ground ( - )" based as the pedal wires have no power only ( - ). I'm not sure but the the ML capacitor size feeds 2 motors on Powerwheels. The BCP is not set up that way tho it maybe possible to install on the power + motor lead bit only be used when going forward check with ML since they sell it. I've never used or need one and never been supplied with one to test out. Hope this helps
If you do figure out a solution please let us know there are people looking to do the same
Hey, what can add into the circuit so that when the foot isn’t on the pedal the wheels just stop and the car skids. Is there something that the car will just roll and a decrease in voltage and it will not jolt when the pedal is not being pressed?
You would have to add some sort of capacitor to the motor
Circling back to this question. Any suggestion on capacitor size or line to place it on? The jolting stop is causing issues.
So I plan on using your setup but with 18V. I want to use 18V primarily because I have a bunch of extra 18V Ryobi batteries. What are your thoughts on adding a PWM motor speed controller wired between the RX30 to the motors, that way the system is at 18V, the electronics are at 12V with the regulator, and the motors have a PWM that I can manually switch between 0-18V?
Nope 18v will be to.slow it's a 24v system. Adding a Pwm will confuse the RX30 and not work. Either one or the other. can't use both. If you go PWM there is no need for the RX-30
How much do you want to create the harness for me? Along with the new steering fix?
Lol never thought about it, email sent
i second this!
@@JKtheOREO I have one available
@@Neonjer11 I'll take it!!
@@JKtheOREO topsecretracing@yahoo.com
Is it easier to take everything out and wire it together then put it in the jeep or wire everything under the hood?
I guess thats just preference. Up too you, I did mine under the hood. But wither way it's up to you
This is crazy!! 45 min video? I feel like I need an electrical engineering degree for this!
I feel that bro
Its a full walkthru reason its 45min. also in the description are time stamps if your looking for a specific part. Most people don't understand the function of the rideon system, this explains the parts, what they do and why. So for installations and troubleshooting this is good base knowledge.
After completing this project, the only problem I have is the light on/off switch. It's not lighting up & not functional. Does anyone have any clue? Any wiring diagram for this? @tsrgraphics you rock for putting this together. Thank you
Have you checked the Google Photos link?
I have. The wiring to the light switch was unchanged.
@@JKtheOREO1) ok fist thing is does the car work after the upgrade or is it just the switch? Check you voltages and make sure you have power.
If not check your wiring make sure the are correct
2)if they are, have you tried a different switch?
@@JKtheOREO remember that the diagram Is for the RX30 not your particular vehicles esc
What If you wanted to put a 3 wire throttle In place of the pedal because I was looking to swap this into my son’s 6v motorcycle would the throttle take the place of the high/low switch and the pedal together or does It not quite work that way?
Also I would probably have to find a way to wire the foot brake Into It so It would not come to a rough stop?
anything is possible but I wouldn't waste time on a 6v
I’m needing to change the steering drive unit on the Jeep but struggling with getting the wheel off. Are you familiar with how the steering wheel can be removed?
If I remember there's clips on the back collar side of the steering wheel push in and pull. There's a wire there that connects the horn, buttons. Now there should be a nut or pin holding the wheel collar on, should be good after that
So bc of the esc and lights and everything would if possible to wore those completely independent to a 12v battery and then use some drill battery(still undecided on brand/vol) to run the the rc car?
Not sure I understand. you could run everything on 12v independently but that means you'll have to rewire the entire car for the drill batteries to go directly to the motors. Kinda defeats the purpose of upgrading your esc
Great info, great video! Thanks!
Want to do this upgrade but nervous about all the lighting I've added. I think I'm gonna try adding a 18v milwaukee battery to run the motors and then keep the 12v battery to power my rollbar, strobe lights, rock lights and radio. After repainting and adding as many lights as I did to my godsons jeep I'd hate to ruin them!
18v will do the same just not as fast if you dont add a voltage regulator your 12v electronics will break, they are made for 12v. When you see people add a drill battery thats 18v, usually they won't have any esc or electronics that are 12v. There rides are pretty much direct to the motors. No bells and whistles. Hope I explained this ok. Good luck with your mod. Any questions just ask
@@Neonjer11 thanks for the reply! I've been thinking and maybe I will use a step down converter and plug the 12v power and ground into a fused distribution block. Then all my lighting will be fused and 12v and it saves me from using multiple converters.
@@jamieplourde3782 ya sounds like a good plan voltage regulator is key to not damaging your 12v electronics
@@Neonjer11 I forgot I have the power distribution block in place already. My godsons only 2.5 and doesn't go out at night but his jump his lit for anything and everything!
great video. I'm having trouble figuring out the 24V 12V regulator because my car has a circuit board for the lights and radio. everything connects to the board befor being distributed out. if I take the negative front high low switch I dont know where to get the positives. the only positive is the 24V straight to the board. please help?
Did you view the Google Photos link in the description? There is a diagram I made there to assist when installing. Not sure what you mean by circuit board? Either way you tap off the 24v and add a 2nd line with the 24v/12v Regulator. There are usually 2 components 1- the Controller(RX-30) , 2- the radio/ light board. You should have 24v going into the controller from there your controller (rx30) feeds voltage to turn on your accessories this is where you tap in and split. Let me know
I cant add pictures on here. do you have an email I can add pictures. I believe the accessories board has the red black and white 24V wires going to it. along with the yellow from the high low switch. all going in to a harness plugged into the accessories board. instead of straight to the power on off switch like your video shows. do I have to use the negative from the high low switch or can I split off the red and black going into the accessories board harness. this would cause all lights radio and the power on off button to be 12V.
also the accessories board is most likely a 12V board. so shouldnt all leads going into the harness that is plugged into the accessories board be 12V. this accessories board controls radio, lights, power on off, charging port, and has a lead coming from high low switch
@@stephenmcwhorter7316 did you post pics to the Google Photos link if not topsecretracing@yahoo.com
Im sure this was asked already but so many comments. is there a list of parts and the vendor anywhere below. thank you
When charging the batteries in series, will the charger you recommend stop charging on its own? At what voltage? Mine showed 27.1 volts before I disconnected it fearing it was too high
It should stop once fully charged
Awesome video!! Question- Has anyone tried this with lithium batteries??
yes but it is recommend to keep the voltage based on you type for the ESC ex: 24v for the RX30
@@Neonjer11 gotcha, thanks! I plan on trying this upgrade very soon
Great video thank you. Anyone has ideas on how to tame the snappy steering after the power upgrade?
ua-cam.com/video/wIuo2gSvvOs/v-deo.html
@@Neonjer11 Thank you, another very helpful video!
This has been a great help, thanks for putting so much time and effort into it. I followed your steps for the most part. 12 to 24v conversion. Went with RX30 & (2) 550 1800rpm motors. Went with (2) 12v 18ah batteries and built a custom wood holder to secure everything in the engine bay. I did a different charging setup.
While the polarity of several things needed swapped to work correctly with the motors and remote...I still have one issue. My Jeep did not come with a hi/low switch, but I added one. However it make no noticable difference. The 24v speed is probably a little too fast for my son right now, would really like this switch to work. Any thoughts? I wired in the 7 wire plug and believe I have the orange wire and black wires to the switch correct.
So pretty much the hi/low switch is a ground switch. So this is how it works
Pin 1 unconnected = high speed
Pin 1 connected = puts car into Low speed
So you switch when connected to ground should lower the voltage going to your motors giving you a slower speed. If this doesn't work it's either connected wrong or something else is going on.
You do have a second option and that would be to sync the remote control supplied with the rx30 and you can manually select between 3 speeds using the (S) button on the controller. The only issue with this is if the car is powered off then back on it will reset it self back to whatever is selected in the jeep
Hopefully this helps
Also if possible prop the rear wheels up put it in low. Press the pedal. Listen and flip to high, listen for the speed increase or you can also check the output voltage to the motors if you wanna be sure it's working but it's just a simple ground switch
@@Neonjer11 Thanks for the response. I do realize there is a remote option, but rarely use that and am nervous that it would revert to high speed on its own. I actually hid the hi/low switch in one of the front wheel wells and would like my son to not realize it is an option yet.
When using the remote speed control, I can audibly hear the speed/sound difference between the 3 choices. With the switch I hear no difference (and no difference on our test drives).
Have tried different combinations with the plugs on the back of the switch, but couldn't tell a difference. In your diagram you put the orange wire in the middle, does it matter which side? Also do all of the blacks matter where they are located?
I have a multi meter, but haven't broken it out yet. Have never used on low voltage. Is there is a chance that the switch is working but that I can't hear/see the difference?
@@Neonjer11 I believe I said orange wire, but meant to say yellow. Either way, I will just connect the yellow to the blacks directly to test a low speed.
@@tylergerber8638 don't go by color go by the pin #
@@tylergerber8638 ok so if the remote is cutting the speed, then the ESC is working. Yes the wires matter where they are on the switch. Do like you said and bypass the switch and directly ground the low pin#1
Also this wire set up is the same for the Moderno jeep if you was to add a break reduction module would you hook that up to pin 4? Cause Thers only 2 wires for the pedal
I have a video on the braking. Check out my videos
@@Neonjer11 Could you post the link for me, I scrolled threw your vids and I didn’t see any for breaking
@brendenwoodruff1660 I'm sorry I was thinking steering. On braking we did try to lesson the brake tho it requires a capacitor and base on your setup and stoppage it may differ in size. Tho if I remember right it was similar to the steering. Be sure not to restrict the power to your motors and also the esc may see that added company and not function properly. For these reasons we did not recommend the mod.
Is the upgraded speed control necessary? Im wondering if i can just change to 24v gear box and motors and run 2 batteries in series and be good. I mean the 18v battery on the stock 12v system increased power and speed by 50% so i wouldnt see why it wouldnt double doing 24v. The problem is i burnt up my 12v motors lol
does your setup have a speed control?
Hi, thanks for the great video. How would I change the setup if my shifter has a fwd hi, fwd lo, and rev?
You don't have to change anything really if you wire it correctly you'll have all 3 same as you have now less neutral I'm assuming.
I’m trying to use my original shifter, pedal, on/off switch, and charging port and I can’t seem to get it working. I have power to my 7pin connector but I must be missing something. I can’t seem to find anyone to give me a straight answer. Should I just rip out all the original wiring and run new ones like in your video?
@@jamesoleary7560 did you or can you post some pics of the wiring and shift components to the Google Photos help link folder. Unfortunately these manufacturers have different components for the same bodies. The part all do the same its just figuring out which wire goes where, lol.
photos.app.goo.gl/oj5kBWeh8WxC3F4S7
thank you so much for this video tutorial! i upgraded the BCP land rover ride on toy to use an 18v lithium ion drill battery and it seemed to be working fine until i heard a pop so i immediately stopped and looked for more information. the upgrade tutorial i watched was for power wheels so im glad i found this one specifically for the BCP. am i right in thinking that this upgrade would also work to use an 18v drill battery instead of two 12v SLA batteries in series? i ordered the 24v 30000RPM gearbox to replace the motors and the 24v RX30, and im planning on just switching those two things and keeping everything else stock. am i missing anything for this to work? thank you in advance!
The RX30 is a 24v setup. Using 18v may undervolt the Weelye esc and cause it not to work as intended. Some have tried this. Not sure if it works tho. If it does work you'll likely be slower not faster as your replacement motors will now require 24v not 12v. I've written a few voltage stats in the comments in the past.
24v/30,000rpm
@18v you would be at 22,500rpm if the esc operates as intended
@@Neonjer11ok, I'll have to see if they sell 24v drill batteries that I can just swap out the adapter for. But for now, with all 24v components, it should be fine without any fire hazard or blowing motors with an 18v battery right? And if i wanted to use the 18v battery, it's definitely not ok to just keep the stock 12v motors on the wheels?
@@Neonjer11using an 18v battery should still be faster than the stock 12v setup right?
@DrNooob ya it should be. I would try the RX-30 w/ 18v see if it works. Leave the 12v motors for now. 18v to 12v motors isn't horrible persay just bear inmind the life of those motors will drop. I wouldn't change to the 24v motors on 18v battery don't think there will be enough juice to do what you want. Like I said I don't do it this way, only way I suggest is like the video cause it's the only way I have tested personally tested it. Hope this helps
@@Neonjer11 ok great, the rx30 is coming today so i should be able to swap that out easily. i installed the 18v drill battery adapter with a built in 30A fuse, and im also going to replace the 7A circuit breaker/fuse with 30A ones from amazon. i got worried because i thought i heard a pop after just replacing the stock SLA battery with the 18v drill, and i didn't want to fry the motors. for now, i'll hold off on replacing the motors and see how it holds up. also, in my BCP car, i can't seem to find the wiring that goes to the radio and lights. is it dangerous not to put in the 24v to 12v regulator?
Hi. I have a little question because i am on a car repair with this diagram. How id the current arriving on Forward-back Switch/high speed low speed and the pedal ?:) Thanks !!!
There's no current it's all grounds -.
I’ve got a Uenjoy Jeep. Switched out to 24v motors. The 12v setup had both motors wired to one plug going to speed controller. With R30, do I separate the motors and plug each one into its own hole on R30?
It shouldn't matter
Is there a way to just directly connect the battery to the shifter, peddle and motor
tank you for your video very professional i have a mercedes and i cant get my power steering to work will you help me
What's wrong with it?
Thank you Dad! Please make tutorial for converting rx/tx bluetooth module to 2.4Ghz rx/tx module
I purchased mines in 2022 it has the parental remote control too. I don’t have the hi/lo either. And my on/off switch is wired different from the video. Theirs three prongs from the on/off switch.
I just really need to know what to cut and splice.
1st red wire going to module.
2nd set white going to module. Red to radio. Thick Red to head/rear light switch.
3rd set 4-black wires going to lights and radio, 1 brown going to fed/rev.
* I imagine I have to intercept the red to radio and red to light switch.
And intercept the 4 blacks to lights and radio.
Ya anything that's still getting 12v needs to off the regulator
I am planning on following your outline - Very well done !
Recently I am having issues with the ESC lights staying on regardless of the switch being turned on and the radio unit does not work. I think the radio unit is shorted out somehow.
My Question - I have looked for replacement radio unit pcb boards but I have come up empty on my 16hour + of searching.... have you come across replacement radio units or maybe have a schematic of the board ?
Thank you.
Which radio do you have? There are a few different kinds. Most likely you can find them on Aliexpress if Noone else has them
@@Neonjer11
The model I have is: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082D4CYBP/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
It seems that the majority of the radio units are the same between these 12v ride on brands (weelye, BC, etc...), with slight differences. If I was able to find one for sale I could make it work. I am not able to locate any radio units .... Was hoping you may have found a site or link in your electrical adventures.
Thank you for the quick reply !
The only identifying part number on the radio PCB is :YJ-205BT-12V
@@ryanrymerson2263 a.aliexpress.com/_mPDrYaw
I'm repairing my grandson's car and have purchased a new controller & remote R9AA-2G4-6V and the pinout is different. The new controller has pins labled V,CD,G,K which I don't know where to connect them or what the letters mean. The other pins +,-,f2,b2,f1,b1 arn't a problem.
With your expertise can you help?
thanks
Is there a wiring diagram for the new controller that you can cross reference the 2
@@Neonjer11 That's the problem there is no wiring diagram for either car, the old and the new controller a model R9AA-2G4-6v. With some experimenting I have identified what V and G signals do but not the other signals. I have searched extensively on the net for the component details so I could reverse engineer the circuit. On the receiver pca there are 2 chips 8 pin dip labeled BSJ 1598H and the other a 20 pin sop BSJ R2403ZY. The 8 pin chips drive the motors, they wish. I have ordered 2 x 43A Dual BTS7960B H-bridge Driver Board 6-27V and will bypass the 8 pin drivers. Why I need the description is to be able to wire the new receiver board into the existing wiring, a 6V Mini Cooper S rollplay.com/en-us/drive/mini-s-6v Thanks
Could I use ~18v with the rx30? Also, Do I need to add a high/low switch? Could I just use a voltage controller to control the voltage & adjust the voltage with another regulator before the radio/lights?
18v will not power the rx30 properly. It is a 24v system.
@@Neonjer11 could I use 2 20v batteries & step it down to 24v? I have a lot of dewalt batteries so itd be convenient to use them
@@artvandelay4914 you might be able to use a 20v battery(I know you wanna use a drill battery)but if it did work keep in mind it may be slightly slow then if you used 24. Also using 2x20 and regulate the power to 24v is pointless imo. If I was a gambling man I would try the 20v see if it’s enough to operate the rx30 but don’t forget to have a regulator for the 12v stuff
@@Neonjer11 ok thank you for your advice :) i will try using rx30 with ~20v. may ask why itd be pointless to do 2 batteries at 40v then drop it to 24v?
It just seems like a waste of battery personally if you setup works you'd have a second battery for run time. They other way you would have to charge them both to get your 24v. These are reasons why I just suggest the regular 24v setup. But if it works and your good with it, do it
Did you have any issues with the 7amp thermal circuit breakers?
Are those stock ones? If yes, no never an issue
Ours has all the grounds go to the on/off switch, then the ground out from on/off switch goes to the high/low, then high/low to the module
Very good detailed video on the upgrade. I'm planning on running a set of Ryobi 18v 4.0ah batteries to my upgraded RX30/24v 30k rpm motors/speed controller. Would a regulator really be that important or would a 6v increase to the radio and lights be an issue? I upgraded the 12v motors from 9k to 40k RPM motors (i currently run two 12v7ah batteries in parallel for longevity) and the batteries die MUCH faster. And I've noticed since the motors dont have as much torque, the car turns off if the motors are loaded going through mud sometimes...and have to wait 30s or so for it to automatically turn back on. This only happened on the stock set up once or so if i pushed it, with the motor upgrades, its constant under any major load. Im hoping with the 24v motors, running an 18v battery, i can run it at 100% without overloading the motors.
Some say they have run the 18v on the rx30, tho I personally never test it on 18v, also keep in mind if you upgrade motor to 24v, @18v it will be slower as you will under power the motor by 25% if you leave the 12v motors @ 18v you will overvolt at 25%, it will be fast but the life of the motors will be shortened not sure how the Weelye esc will act as it may trip due to the load it sees. The issue you described sounds like the motors are worn and need replaced it's not a battery issue imo
as for the light and radio yes 12v only
Also the high the rpm the less torque you will have so if you off reading with 40k lol it probably will give u issue, 30k-40k is black top parking lot riding where not much torque is needed, I would go 18k if possible for balance stock is I think like 10k-12k rpm
@@Neonjer11 thanks for the replies... the stock motors were 550/12v/9k rpm. they're cheap enough I could buy a set of 18k rpm motors for the 12v set up just to have.... but the motors in it now at 40k rpm are brand new...first time using them too yesterday actually. they work great on pavement...but in mud or water they tend to do the internal shutoff thing...so i figured they were just being overloaded.
I was hoping the 18v battery would work with the 24v set up and just be safe from overloading anything..but at minimum it soundsl ike I'll need to get a regulator for the lights and radio or risk burning them up. Thanks again for the reply!
24v, and the motor connections aren't powered (yet?). the remote/receiver flashing thing still doesn't do anything. As a separate question, if I have the receiver all hooked up as you specified does and get the tx paired does that deactivate the power on function of the receiver?
The remote has a pair button hold it down till it flashes, then turn on the Jeep it should link right up
Trying to install this on a roleplay GMC denali and would like to keep the existing charging port any advice
Not sure which port type they use but Amazon may have something that fits. If you upgrading the charger figure out what connecter your gonna use and maybe expoy or JB weld a fitted piece for the charger port
I'm wondering if converting from the 12 volt motors to the 24 volt motors would change anything. Like, would running 24 volt motors on 24 volts be the same thing as running 12 volt motors on 12 volts? Because I'm about to order 24 volt 550 motors for my son's off-brand power Wheels Lamborghini. It had 12 volt 570 motors before. And I burnt them up with a 18 volt battery lol. I'm wondering if the 24 volt motors running on 24 volts would be the same or if they're actually faster
so you over-volted your 12v motors w/ 18v battery, and they burnt up. that's expected. 12v motors made for 12v battery. it will works on 18v just cut life of the motors or at worst burn them up right away. 24v lowers the amp load. your top speed depends on your rpm. tho the higher your rpm, usually less torque. on the jeeps 18k rpm seemed to be a good spd/torque. there plenty of information on the net if you want more information on technical.
@@Neonjer11Sweet. Do you know any websites where I could get more technical information? I can't really find a whole lot. Most people are just overclocking their 12 volt motors with 18 volts. I'm going to assume on my new 24 volt motor setup I ordered, even though it's 200 W instead of 50 watt, if the RPMs of the motor are the same as the 12 volt setup, running 24 volt on the new motors will be the same as running 12 volt on the old motors, I will just have more power and torque. I would have to overclock the 24 volt motors to 36 volts if I actually wanted to hire speed, huh? At least the new motors are 40,000 RPM instead of 35
@@Neonjer11I would say I will have enough raw power with the new setup to run a 12-point gear instead of 10 point. And that will get me my extra speed. Are the pinion gears changeable on those motors? I noticed they are press fit instead of having a set screw like an RC car
@stevenjenkins5415 I mean anything can be done if you wanna spend the time and money. we'll I mean with AI bot you could use Bing and ask the bot ant questions if your looking for tech specs. your kinda on you own once your start to customize. changing pinion and such can work if done right. tho there's always a trade off spd for torque. figure our what your build requires. if the kid is heavy probably lean on torque spec 24v runs same at less load (less strain on motor) same as electric in your house. if no hills torque is usually not a deal breaker the jeeps and trucks usually kids are off roading in grass and hills.
@@Neonjer11Right.....but since my 24v setup is 200w vs 70 watt, I think I would have the power to go to a 12 tooth pinion and get him some more speed. I might have to make custom motor mounts to move the motor around to make room for a bigger pinion. Cuz I think these ones just have 2 solid bolt holes, don't they? There's an adjustment slot on RC cars for the motor mount screw when you change pinion size
Thank you for this video. Do you have a link to the RX 30? I'm trying to do 18 or 24 volts on my kids power wheels.
Yes should be in the description
No need for 18v just do a 24v with Hi/low switch
www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1S8KWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_hD43Fb8MG1J6Y
@@Neonjer11 yeah, just found it. Thank you. I'll probably be back with more questions. I think I fried the board of my kids power wheels. Converted to 24 volts, it drove for 5 feet and was done.
Did you send me over from Reddit? Whoever did, this video is going to really help me out!
Ya I gave you the link I also added the JR replacement Controllers in the reddit post for you. You can just buy a 24v and swap it if you have the same plugs
@@Neonjer11 did you delete your comment over on reddit? That was the most helpful comment on my post and I can't find it. I'm trying to find the regulator you used in this video.
@@Neonjer11 also in the video you mentioned the Trax motors aren't going to work with this modular. Because they'll shut off. What would you suggest for replacement motors for a Dodge Ram Trax Dually? I'm planning to run 18 or 24 volts.
Hi there, I've just picked up a 12v 200w rx34... I love your video and it has explained almost everything I need to know, my only concern left is that my rx34 has a 7 pin connector instead of a 6 and I don't know what the 7th pin goes to... I assume the pins should still run the same as you've described them from left to right but that leaves me with an exposed pin and no idea what it's for, hope you or someone can help!
Please add pics of your wiring to the Google Photos help folder
@@Neonjer11 done ☺️
@@willtrench4819 You need to verify where those wires are going to in order to make sure the cross reference rx30 wiring is correct
I'm not sure if this question was already asked( looked but didn't find)... Will any 24v to 12v converter work? To run the lights, radio, 12v accessories, ect.. I was looking on Amazon and I have a choice on a 5A or 10A.
Ya it should be fine unless you add crazy stuff to the car
I have this Jeep but mine does not come with the HIGH LOW SWITCH. It has a shifter that is HIGH LOW and REVERSE? Do I need to make a separate switch like you have in this video?
No it the same thing just all in one. If you have a weelye control board(esc) it should be plug and play less the 12v accessories that require a regulator
Hi could you do a how to covert to 20v dewalt battery please 🙏 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
The weelye esc doesn’t have a 20v only 6v/12v/24v that I know of. You would have to try an rx30 with the 20v battery and regulate the 12v stuff. Tho no guarantees it will be enough to power a 24v sec.
I just completed the 24V upgrade with new RX30, new RS550 30K RPM motors. Have done a couple of test runs in the backyard on St.Augustine grass in about 90 degree weather . ECM seems to trip after about 5 - 10mins of use. It resets pretty quickly, thinking it may be over heating. Motors get 135+ degrees also.
Wondering if it's the terrain, ECM, bad motors, or something else??
Ya possibly terrain but may be faulty motors is most common issue
Thanks. I'll start with some replacement motors.
@@wevans4007 are the motors 24v or 12v? if there 12v they will probably overheat and potentially trip if they don't blow 1st
Hi, im new to this thing, i just got a power wheels boomerang. Could i use it to power all 3 Wheels?
I would assume you can tho you would have to rewire. I'm sure powerwheels has different wiring setup
Ok I have the two motor 12v version. I bought 2 24v motor/ gearboxes. I want to run the motors on external battery and accessories on stock 12v. Can't figure how to wire it so only motors get the external battery power but will still turn on with car. Might be something simple but I can't see it😢. Help if possible
See 24:10 in the video
Thanks for replying. I don't know if that would work for me because your still using factory battery. I only want the 12v factory supplying accessories. 18v ryobi (2 wired in parallel if I can) to run the motors. Or am I just making it difficult for myself? They are th 18v battery holder everyone uses for these conversions
@@ampg8862 you just need to add a 12v voltage regulator prior to your accessories
Thank you sir
This absolutely the best breakdown I've seen. So again thank you
When talking about switching the polarity when upgrading form the 12v do you mean the blue and brown wire that plugs in to the controller?
Also my forward and reverse are switched on the controller. Do I just sweaty the placement of the wires that connect to the 24v motors I put in?
The remote is an over ride from what the kid does in the truck.
When talking about the polarity being switched:
Some 12v weelye models when converting to 24v the steering can be reversed for the remote (left & right) just switch them and it will fix it if they are backward.
As for the motors. Same thing the motor lead can be switched just make sure everything works properly for the rider
Hi you did not mention the fuse,do you have to upgrade the self setting fuse?
No on mine I did not. Haven't had an issue
There is a 2WD/4WD switch on my son's Blade XR 2.0 4x4, as well as 3 selectable speeds (R-P-D1-D2-D3), would the RX30 support those two functions?
I have no clue. Lol
Thanks For the content! Is there anyway to make the braking softer so it puts less strain on the gear box. I’ve looked into ML toys brake module ( which is a resistor ) but requires three wires. Doesn’t work with this set up. Do you have any idea how ?
Unfortunately there is no way to add a resistor on a board controlled ride-on without sacrificing speed. Theoretically the only way to brake softer would be to is to add some sort of capacitor near the motors using some sort of capacitor meaning adding something that stores just enough power for the motor to draw from when the power is cut. I'm not sure if this will actually work on a board controlled unit. I would advise against it. I have not tried this.
I have found that on the remote at least, if you tap the forward button a bit instead of just letting off, it comes to a gradual stop. Instead of snapping their neck. So maybe pumping the brakes or gas would help?
I have the rx74 and it has the hi low switch but the car stays on full speed with the remote and with the pedal. I bought another kit , the same. Same issue. Don’t know what else to do. If u would help i would so appreciate it
I am not 100% on an RX74. This Video was based on a RX-30 24v model. Id need much more info to help.
I did it exactly as you have it wired. The power light flickered on and then stopped. Not sure why.... I re hooked it up for 12 V and works fine so no fuses blew
Not sure what your asking?
@Neonjer11 I wired it as demonstrated in the video. I pushed the power button down, the red light went on for like a fraction of a second, and then turned off, no power. Why does it work when I remove a battery, but doesn't work when I add a second?
@Madbiochemist16 so if I understand correctly you are adding a 2nd battery ran in "Series" not "Parallel" and are switching the esc to the RX30 24V model correct?
@Neonjer11 that's correct, batteries in series, got the RX30. Power button lit up for a fraction of a second and then stopped.
@Madbiochemist16 make sure your getting power to the switch and after the switch is on. Both side should read 24v. If they don't you may hVe a bad switch or possibly wired incorrectly. Dbl check all your wiring, sounds like a short or a wire going to the wrong place. Remember some models are wired different in the car you must verify your lines are going to the proper place. Let me know how you make out. Also feel free to post pics in the Google help folder in the link
I have a 6v car Do I still need to upgrade the board if I’m only doing a 18v swap?
Ik my lights would get fried so I was thinking about getting rid of the accessories completely and not hooking them up
6v motor on 18v battery would not work. Also the stock board will fry only good for 6v
Also Weelye doesn’t make a 18v model. You can attempt to use the 24v model but no guarantee it will work with 18v