I printed with wood about 5 years. My favorite party trick was manually adjusting the temperature up and down during the print creating color variations to simulate wood grain.
I just went 250 for 10 layers, then 200 for 10 layers and saw no difference. Maybe it was because this PLA is only 20% wood, but I want this to work hahahaha
I've seen so many bad reviews for wood filaments saying it was ugly and nothing like wood. Most people don't realise that, for it to look its best, you have to post process it as you would real wood. Print it with a 0.6mm nozzle at tall layer height, sand it, stain it and laquer it like normal wood and you can get some amazing results. I've made plenty of jewelery boxes as gifts made out of this material and people couldn't believe it was 3d printed. You can even fix your prints with an actual woodfil :D
Being a woodworker, I have used quite a bit of wood infused PLA and have had really good luck with it. It does sand and finish just like regular wood and also takes stain well.
Used Jayo brand bought from Amazon with great success. Same settings as other PLAs except 200c instead of 215c temp. Not a single clog and used it with Bowden and direct drive. Love it for skin tone models.
Excellent video. No fluff and to the point. Never knew how fragile these were. Been thinking about making a woodfill PETG, so your video might just be the impetus for this venture. Now, to source the fibers... -Rich/GreenGate3D
Thanks for this one! But - in my experience, using a brass nozzle with wood filament, is a rather bad idea. It works, yes, but your nozzle will grow. I've seen this several times on different printers and setups, so I doubt it's a false rumor.
I printed the hatchbox wood pla on a stock ender 3 with default pla settings and a .4 nozzle and had zero issues. Maybe this brand is just more brittle?
I will say careful with doing concentric, if you want a 100 infill it does not seem to do well with it, and make sure initial layer speed gets reduced. made the mistake not reducing it, printed at 60 for the that speed and it could not get the filament out intime and made a gap at the start of the first line. with high detail things seems 35-45 mm/s is where it does best. i did mine with a .4mm nozzle at .2mm quality. works just fine but having the filament ina dryer box will most likely help the quality. as for nozzle, why not do hardend steel? makes no since, not costly and does not hurt the print to have it. my filament was 30% wood so was not going to risk it messing up with copper hotend.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 00:00 🌲 Przyjrzymy się filamentowi drewnopodobnemu, znanemu jako timberfill. 00:28 🛠️ Filament to PLA z włóknami drzewnymi, idealny do replikacji wyglądu drewna. 01:52 💪 Materiał kruchy, ale staje się wytrzymały po druku. 03:01 🌡️ Wymagania: Temperatura druku 190-200°C, dysza 0,6 mm, wałek bezpośredni. 04:09 🚀 Sugerowana prędkość druku co najmniej 40 mm/s. 05:54 🌱 Przykład: Wydruk rattanowych planterów. 08:36 🧹 Usunięcie nici pędzlem, łatwe szlifowanie. 09:45 🌟 Filament drewnopodobny to ciekawy materiał z wieloma zastosowaniami. Made with HARPA AI
Printed with” iSANMATE Wood Filament 1.75mm, PLA+ Wood Filament 1.75mm, 3D Printer Filament 1kg/Spool (20% Wood Powder+80% PLA”. Used a .4 nozzle on a Kobra Max. There was no clogging, stringing or any popping. The temperature was 200 degrees. The print stuck well to the bed through out the print, and came off with the plastic spatula.
I printed with wood about 5 years. My favorite party trick was manually adjusting the temperature up and down during the print creating color variations to simulate wood grain.
I tried a temperature tower to see if I got any color variations. I didn't see any. I wonder if I just didn't go low enough. I went 225 down to 205.
@@hondaguy9153 i think you didn't go low enough, considering the temps on the filament show all the way from 165
@@olivertrees depends on the filament. The one I bought says 190-225.
I just went 250 for 10 layers, then 200 for 10 layers and saw no difference. Maybe it was because this PLA is only 20% wood, but I want this to work hahahaha
@@danielberry777 Have you figured it out yet? Please share if so!
I've seen so many bad reviews for wood filaments saying it was ugly and nothing like wood. Most people don't realise that, for it to look its best, you have to post process it as you would real wood. Print it with a 0.6mm nozzle at tall layer height, sand it, stain it and laquer it like normal wood and you can get some amazing results. I've made plenty of jewelery boxes as gifts made out of this material and people couldn't believe it was 3d printed. You can even fix your prints with an actual woodfil :D
Being a woodworker, I have used quite a bit of wood infused PLA and have had really good luck with it. It does sand and finish just like regular wood and also takes stain well.
Used Jayo brand bought from Amazon with great success. Same settings as other PLAs except 200c instead of 215c temp. Not a single clog and used it with Bowden and direct drive. Love it for skin tone models.
What size nozzle did you use?
0,4
@@petereriksson4115 ty
Excellent video. No fluff and to the point. Never knew how fragile these were. Been thinking about making a woodfill PETG, so your video might just be the impetus for this venture. Now, to source the fibers... -Rich/GreenGate3D
That is a great model for wood filled filament! I've been messing with some Polymaker stuff myself
Been wanting to print with wood for awhile now, this finally got me to order it
Good review. I always thought that wood fill was abrasive and you needed a steel nozzle.
Thanks, I have a spool of wood pla, now maybe I’ll try using it
Smart Materials Sostenible line also has filaments which contains PINE fibers, OLIVE bone and another one which contains OYSTER shells.
Interesting!!!
Thanks for this one!
But - in my experience, using a brass nozzle with wood filament, is a rather bad idea. It works, yes, but your nozzle will grow. I've seen this several times on different printers and setups, so I doubt it's a false rumor.
This is great! I haven't tried wood in a while because the last spool was annoying -- I will definitely see if a bigger nozzle helps.
I printed the hatchbox wood pla on a stock ender 3 with default pla settings and a .4 nozzle and had zero issues. Maybe this brand is just more brittle?
filament oiler is helpful too
I tried wood-filled a while back and it wrecked my nozzle, jammed and actually caught on fire...not going there again
I will say careful with doing concentric, if you want a 100 infill it does not seem to do well with it, and make sure initial layer speed gets reduced. made the mistake not reducing it, printed at 60 for the that speed and it could not get the filament out intime and made a gap at the start of the first line. with high detail things seems 35-45 mm/s is where it does best. i did mine with a .4mm nozzle at .2mm quality. works just fine but having the filament ina dryer box will most likely help the quality. as for nozzle, why not do hardend steel? makes no since, not costly and does not hurt the print to have it. my filament was 30% wood so was not going to risk it messing up with copper hotend.
What about cost? Can you sell a pla wood planter on a fairy price and make also a profit? Thanks
I have 0 crackling sound i’m sad. The wood/toxic aroma is cool tho 🤪
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:00 🌲 Przyjrzymy się filamentowi drewnopodobnemu, znanemu jako timberfill.
00:28 🛠️ Filament to PLA z włóknami drzewnymi, idealny do replikacji wyglądu drewna.
01:52 💪 Materiał kruchy, ale staje się wytrzymały po druku.
03:01 🌡️ Wymagania: Temperatura druku 190-200°C, dysza 0,6 mm, wałek bezpośredni.
04:09 🚀 Sugerowana prędkość druku co najmniej 40 mm/s.
05:54 🌱 Przykład: Wydruk rattanowych planterów.
08:36 🧹 Usunięcie nici pędzlem, łatwe szlifowanie.
09:45 🌟 Filament drewnopodobny to ciekawy materiał z wieloma zastosowaniami.
Made with HARPA AI
What's the cooling on Cura you were talking about? I guess don't understand
Printed with” iSANMATE Wood Filament 1.75mm, PLA+ Wood Filament 1.75mm, 3D Printer Filament 1kg/Spool (20% Wood Powder+80% PLA”. Used a .4 nozzle on a Kobra Max. There was no clogging, stringing or any popping. The temperature was 200 degrees. The print stuck well to the bed through out the print, and came off with the plastic spatula.
Good stuff right
Where can i find these baskets models?
What Machine did you print them on. I just ordered my first 3 Si Pro. And a this wood stuff.
Seems to be out of stock everywhere. Shame because this actually looked to have the best finish out of all the wood filaments.
What about post processing? Does that help?
That fillimentum is STUPID expensive. $52 for 750g is ridiculous.
Gutted.
I misread it as wool filament.
Was still a good video, but for natural fiber, a wool based filament would have been cool.
Heh, maybe for those felted artworks.
I get this picture in my head of yarn going through 2 hot end knitting needles.🥴
Niiiice
Printing at 190c due to to luch stringing
wow only 15% wood, i need more wood then that.