Brilliant! I searched through a dozen videos until I found yours. I wanted something simple and practical and all I could find was rocket scientists who did woodworking as a hobby and shoved computer programs at me. Thank you very much. Get this; All I need to do is build a pyramid strawberry planter for my wife. You get the idea. Again, thank you for keeping it simple and accurate.
Thank you for this simple explanation of such a complex project that I have going. Now to your other video that adds a dovetail to this compound angle.
Sir... It was tricky.. And i was seeking for this trick.. After a couple of complicated math i did, and makes my head spinning like crazy. With a lot of error cuts i did.. Thanks a lot for the video.
This is almost correct but has a critical error. The miter gauge can't be left set at the miter angle when cutting the workpiece. It has to be set by butting the small end against the saw blade and then setting the miter gauge angle from the other cut surface. This probably can't be done accurately with the little end in this setup block. That's why most instructions use a larger block.
I’m curious why. I’ve done it so many times like that. I even had it published in a magazine. I don’t mean to come across rude. Just what do you think would be a problem the method I use?
I have to agree with Houston here. I followed your method step by step and it didn't work. Something is missing. It may be something simple and other people 'get it', but I didn't.
Mine did not turn out right. When you place the angled face of the setup block against the miter gauge set to 0 degrees, should the face of the setup block be against the miter gauge or just the top edge? Since the face is angled, there is a difference. Also, the top/bottom orientation looks backwards -- at least for a project where the piece flares outward as you go from bottom to top. Perhaps you are making something that flares out top to bottom. THANKS!
Chad, I'm wondering would it be possible for you to show me/us how you would do a spline in a piece like this? All the spline jigs I've seen only work on flat/square sides. Thanks
That's a great question. It should still work, but yes i believe you will have to change sides. It's probably best to practice it on a scrap piece before you do the real project. Thanks for watching.
Chad Stanton Hi Chad, this post applies to Chris Wiebler's post from about 3 weeks ago. I am building a set of magazine trays (in the video it looks like you have a similar tray on a workbench in the background over your left shoulder - I can't tell whether the ends and sides are connected with dove-tail joints or screws but the angles (in my case, 40 degrees) appear to be what I'm trying to do) that all four sides are angled at a 40 degree outward slope. I want to use compound butt joints and not compound miter joints that one might find on crown moulding. Several observations: my table saw ONLY tilts from right to left ( as seen from the front of the saw and with the blade protruding out from table that when tilted away from 90 degrees, slopes only to the left (your video shows all video from behind the saw - makes sense for making a video but is not good for trying to orient lots of different angles when it comes time to make the setup jig)). After building multiple setup jigs trying to replicate your setup I came to the realization that your saw tilts both left and right, and that you are making cuts on the right side of the blade with the blade tilting. This may not be a problem. What may be a problem - and for me, a confusing situation - at the beginning of the building of the setup jig, and after cutting (ripping) the first angle down the length of the jig, you say place the just-cut angle against the miter gauge. Is that with the cut angle FACE FLUSH against the miter gauge face or with the top, LONG-POINT edge of the cut face against the miter gauge and the base of the jig FLAT on the saw table? That may be why none of my jigs are working. The video does not show this part of the angle / jig construction. If you need more info please let me know; provide me a way to contact you, if appropriate. Thanks
Brilliant! I searched through a dozen videos until I found yours. I wanted something simple and practical and all I could find was rocket scientists who did woodworking as a hobby and shoved computer programs at me. Thank you very much.
Get this; All I need to do is build a pyramid strawberry planter for my wife. You get the idea. Again, thank you for keeping it simple and accurate.
Thanks for this. Angles do my head in. This is the Goto video from now on. Keep them coming.
The best video about this subject that I have found. Also funny :D
Thank you so much 😊
Thank you for this simple explanation of such a complex project that I have going. Now to your other video that adds a dovetail to this compound angle.
I needed that. Thanks for the laughs.
Keep it going.
Sir... It was tricky.. And i was seeking for this trick.. After a couple of complicated math i did, and makes my head spinning like crazy. With a lot of error cuts i did.. Thanks a lot for the video.
Got us out of a jam
Thank you so much!
Great Vid...thank you for taking your time to do this
Smoking in the workshop. Reminds me of the '70's.
This is almost correct but has a critical error. The miter gauge can't be left set at the miter angle when cutting the workpiece. It has to be set by butting the small end against the saw blade and then setting the miter gauge angle from the other cut surface. This probably can't be done accurately with the little end in this setup block. That's why most instructions use a larger block.
I’m curious why. I’ve done it so many times like that. I even had it published in a magazine. I don’t mean to come across rude. Just what do you think would be a problem the method I use?
I have to agree with Houston here. I followed your method step by step and it didn't work. Something is missing. It may be something simple and other people 'get it', but I didn't.
Very helpful. Thanks
Mine did not turn out right. When you place the angled face of the setup block against the miter gauge set to 0 degrees, should the face of the setup block be against the miter gauge or just the top edge? Since the face is angled, there is a difference. Also, the top/bottom orientation looks backwards -- at least for a project where the piece flares outward as you go from bottom to top. Perhaps you are making something that flares out top to bottom. THANKS!
I have the same question...
Can you make the angle cuts and compound miters just as easily with a compound miter saw?
Chad, I'm wondering would it be possible for you to show me/us how you would do a spline in a piece like this? All the spline jigs I've seen only work on flat/square sides. Thanks
This is great
Omelet du fromage! Genius.
Other than making me laugh, thanks for the great tip.
Isn't the inside piece just mitered with no bevel?
what is different to make a mitered compound angle?
thanks for share! ^_^
does this work with a right tilt saw or will i have to switch sides?
That's a great question. It should still work, but yes i believe you will have to change sides. It's probably best to practice it on a scrap piece before you do the real project. Thanks for watching.
Chad Stanton
Hi Chad, this post applies to Chris Wiebler's post from about 3 weeks ago. I am building a set of magazine trays (in the video it looks like you have a similar tray on a workbench in the background over your left shoulder - I can't tell whether the ends and sides are connected with dove-tail joints or screws but the angles (in my case, 40 degrees) appear to be what I'm trying to do) that all four sides are angled at a 40 degree outward slope. I want to use compound butt joints and not compound miter joints that one might find on crown moulding.
Several observations: my table saw ONLY tilts from right to left ( as seen from the front of the saw and with the blade protruding out from table that when tilted away from 90 degrees, slopes only to the left (your video shows all video from behind the saw - makes sense for making a video but is not good for trying to orient lots of different angles when it comes time to make the setup jig)). After building multiple setup jigs trying to replicate your setup I came to the realization that your saw tilts both left and right, and that you are making cuts on the right side of the blade with the blade tilting. This may not be a problem.
What may be a problem - and for me, a confusing situation - at the beginning of the building of the setup jig, and after cutting (ripping) the first angle down the length of the jig, you say place the just-cut angle against the miter gauge. Is that with the cut angle FACE FLUSH against the miter gauge face or with the top, LONG-POINT edge of the cut face against the miter gauge and the base of the jig FLAT on the saw table? That may be why none of my jigs are working. The video does not show this part of the angle / jig construction. If you need more info please let me know; provide me a way to contact you, if appropriate. Thanks
If you like woodworking, just look for Stodoys plans.