How to Cut Compound Angled Dovetails with Hand Tools
Вставка
- Опубліковано 2 чер 2018
- One of my Patreon supporters asked a question about making compound angled dovetails. These are actually just as easy to saw out as dovetails on square corners. The difficulty is in laying out and making the compound angled butt joint that is necessary to make before laying out the dovetails. In this video I go over the process for laying out the compound angled butt joint and the subsequent dovetails.
- Навчання та стиль
![Lp. Последняя Реальность #107 РОДНОЙ ДОМ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IK3QKzKUlHM/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you again for all this informations and details, which for me are kind of a little treasure hidden in secret corner of the library, where only those "with heart and soul" are allowed to enter.
Finally someone made this video for us hand toolers. I really appreciate it. Well done
Holy crap! This is hard as hell. I’m gonna use another joint 😂
Understanding the 5:1 triangle interacting with the angle is what made everything click for me. Thank you. A real method to work to. Visualizing all dovetails with the extended triangle and seeing how it looks on the compound.
I found this very helpful. Only took me 2 tries after viewing this video. Thank you!!
Thank you for your perseverance. I feel this was not as easy as it seemed to explain and you did a great job.
I hope to try this in the near future.
James martin
Very well done . he made it look easy but without some instruction it is not . Bravo.
738polarbear Thank you!
ive always wondered how this is done. ive never needed it in a project yet, but as someone who works with hand tools only, it was bothering me not to know. thanks for the detailed
So glad you’re back!
THANK YOU!
Very good content! Very glad I found you! Greetings from Vienna! :)
Thanks for this. It is interesting that what is most straightforward for one person is not always simplest for another. For instance, you simplify some layout by cutting square to the faces, and accounting for that later. To me, it's simpler to just saw to the compound angle initially. To lay out for that, consider how you hold the square on the top surface at about 19:30 for laying out the dovetail shoulder. If you hold the square exactly like that initially, and line up the top outside edge of the other side as your initial projection, you can score a line along the top, and make a mark at the bottom face where the two boards touch. Those marks give you all the angles you need for the entire process.
Alan S Thanks Alan! I realized after the fact that exactly what you are describing here would have been even easier than the way I initially did it. But I didn’t want to re-film that part 😁. But you are absolutely correct.
There is another advantage to just cutting the compound angle right away as Alan S suggests. The little pieces that you cut off can be used as cauls for your glueup.
Thank you for this video. It's a really good explanation and demo.
Great vid, I know this is four years on. But all I needed was a compound butt joint. Now I know how to achieve this. I wish I had seen this earlier today. Because I’m not allowed to make a noise (Even with hand tools) in my apartment. After 1:30 on a Saturday. (Not at all on a Sunday) So I will wait until Monday then I can get on with it. 👍
Well explained and well demonstrated. Thanks for sharing.
Great stuff, makes me want to make something like this to try out the funky angles.
Steve Reynolds Thanks! You definitely should. It’s a lot of fun and after doing it once, the concept becomes really straight forward. It’s actually harder to break it down and try to explain it than it is to just do it.
Awesome explanation
Thank you so much for this. I was at a loss on how to do this.
I like the new digs, very Richard Maguire-esque.
Thanks!
Barry Manilowa Ha, definitely not fireproof. There’s several tens of thousands of pounds of white pine log cabin right overhead. So it’s more like a furnace 😂
That's one Polish sounding last name. Reminds me of my grandparents names
Mathias Wandel covered this a long time ago. He made a conversion chart for every angle of this type.. Makes the job easy peasy. You Tube him, he explains clearly the why and how to in half the time.. Understand the problem and you can solve it.
USAGeorge Pa. Not with hand tools though which is the significance of this instruction.
Where are the links to the other videos that you mentioned?
Thank you. I'm terrible with math but can cobble with the best of them. Now understand the process.Can you explain how to put in a bottom panel?I assume the rebate or groove would have to be angled?
Strom Johnston Yep. Plow the groove after beveling the long edges. Keep the plow plane fence flat against the beveled bottom and you will plow the groove at the same angle as the beveled long edge.
Very tricky subject to cover and convey in simplistic terms, good job.
Is that the same construction lumber bench you made years back?
PK Property Solutions LTD Thanks! Indeed it is the same bench. Although I have two new ones in the pipeline.
Great video Bob! Did you still have a 20 degree splay on all four sides when you got
finished? I believe you started out with a 20 degree splay on all four sides.
Thanks! I don’t recall the angle. This was just a demo piece so I didn’t do all four corners.
Hi rob, love your videos!! off topic question - are you still sharpening saws?
michael collins Sorry, but for the foreseeable future I am not sharpening saws.
@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking understood - can you recommend someone?
michael collins Matt Cianci www.thesawwright.com
I don’t think the triangle was drawn correctly. He used the base of the triangle along the edge measuring over 1 inch. When he connected them the sides were no longer the same distance. You have to draw the perpendicular line first, then measure your rise of one inch to either side of the line drawn parallel to the top edge. Then you figure in the run at whatever ratio, 5, 6, etc. then connect that point with the two points on the perpendicular but draw the lines all the way to the edge. It is these angles that form the sides of the pins. In the end it doesn’t quite matter as you ultimately transfer these two angles to the tail board.
This is the best video that I have found for doing this with hand tools only. It is still a terrible video, very confusing, but still if you watch it 100 times you will get it right eventually. The crucial part, I think is the bevel cut (ua-cam.com/video/r_k_alH8BO8/v-deo.html).
Another great video, but that skips the bevel cut completely, is this one with goes through all possible combinations of splayed and straight sides: ua-cam.com/video/e9h9maJNFAc/v-deo.html
First thank you for the video. I watched this four times and I kept getting stuck on the part where you offset the front. You said "about a 16th or whatever that angle is." I checked and that angle is actually 8.5 degrees x2 for this example. But there is no explanation here of how to come to it?
That line was simply drawn square to the face of the board. I just set the the gauge to the thickness of the board plus about 1/16”. The actual amount isn’t important. Just set the gauge to a little more than the thickness of the board.
@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking thank you for the response. I guess I am even more confused now because removing the waste at later steps is at a slight angle. Doesn't that angle matter? Or did I miss where you figure that out?
The waste should be removed at an angle because the two boards come together at an angle. But I don’t know (or care) what that angle is. I’m just working to gauge lines. If you follow the layout and work to your scribe lines, everything should work out. I didn’t do any math or figure any angles. It’s all just laid out relatively so that figuring out the actual angles isn’t necessary.
@@BobRozaieskiFineWoodworking I tried a couple more times and got it together this time. Thanks again!
Generally ok with most of that. A precis’d version showing only the actual necessary steps, and no background explanations, would be appreciated. Then we could watch either during the job at home.
1. All 4 corners will need projecting as demo’d and temp’y support angles fixed on, yes? Whooo!
2. All 4 corners will have that overlap, yes? How to ensure your actual job meets design measurements? Looks like a chance of bad final assembly. Any hints?
3. Why not use a dovetail template marker for the pins?
3. Would a Shaker carpenter, using only hand tools, have followed this process traditionally?
Great video, but my head hurts.
Twentyone twos Thanks! It looks more complicated than it is. Try it for yourself!
Wow! never done this before and nervous about it! Sorry do did not help my confidence any!