Dissolving carbon buildup from pistons - Cleaning piston ring grooves engine rebuild compression
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- Опубліковано 11 бер 2013
- Cleaning horrible carbon buildup from the pistons and ring grooves. I had tried many things including scraping, soaking, etc. I tried various products including seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil MMO Soak with no success. I finally tried this Berryman's Chemtool which worked great.
Rebuilding my Saturn 1.9 DOHC engine with new rings, bearings, seals, etc. due to a low compression in cylinder 3 situation. The engine was old and it was time for an overhaul. - Навчання та стиль
That's the correct chemical. If solution is fresh, soak overnight and it should come out clean without mechanical scraping. BTW, using an old ring to remove carbon can also remove metal. Try to avoid that.
Can says max soak time is 4 hours
I use a razor in ring groves and cut in deep and never gave me a problem idk am I getting lucky or what
A correct piston cleaning tool is a soft metal "cutter" it gets 90% of it after soaking. then soak again and scrub with nylon brush.
You can also use Simple Green and warm it up to about 120 degrees F using a heater and then soak your parts in it overnight. The carbon that remains will be easy to remove with a toothbrush or rag. Smells great too!
oh chemtool, you work so well.
Great video man!
WOW, That Chem-Dip stuff really works!Thanks for sharing. :)
I learned this trick years ago it absolutely works make sure you keep your hands out of this it’s very strong...
Thanks DoSumpthin.. Berrymans worked great on dissolving carbon on some valves out of a Jeep I am rebuilding upper valvetrain
I used the berrymans chemdip after watching this video. it works but it will not remove a thick build up so its best to use a brass bruss and clean it off as best you can first then dip it. I found that towards the end i was mostly dipping the piston to weaken the carbon in the ring grooves then scraping with a broken piston ring like suggested (most time consuming part of cleaning the piston)
That's very impressive stuff to work that quickly. I always say that if you crack the can and sniff it, and Don't get instant hemorrhaging from the nose. eyes and your skin falls off and you start pissing blood. Then the stuff is just no good. The nastier the better.
Hate it when spill whole can from passing out.
I used diesel fuel on mine. Much cheaper. Probably not quite as good but got the job done. Love that sound of the first fire of a fresh rebuild.
Did about 10 years of small engine work. We used cleaner like that. There were two kinds available at the time...don't remember the names but the one which had. A small parts basket seem to be a lot stronger. After you soaked the parts for 10 min, you spray it with carb cleaner. Believe it or not the carb cleaner from Walmart' in the blue can' is a lot better than other more expensive stuff at parts stores. Anyway' the carbon crud just ran rite off.
Have a little Saturn 1.9 SOHC also, was blessed it was a 2000 that supposedly has the holes in the oil rings the genius engineers forget to put in them in the earlier years.I didn't know this and till I saw "Old Nuc" RIP. ( You're a mechanic for God now!) state the years it affected. So I did the MMO oil soak 3 or 4 times, thinking it needed to do it for the coked rings...It sure slowed down the oil usage what ever it was doing in there....Best hard carbon dissolving agent I ever used was the" Liquud Wrench Super Penetrant" formula from the later 70's.. ( Not sure if it's the same now) Valves had set for years in a 383 head, and you couldn't drive them out with a 2 lb hammer and a punch... Old man we called "Mr.Mopar" told us to spray and let em soak with the" LWSP" I went "out to play" for a day or so. Came back and they pulled out like a straw in water...Most amazing thing I'd ever seen. I worked on Towboat engines,and no industrial cleaner we used was as good as that stuff..Bar None! I wonder if the formula of today is even close?.....I just use acetone and tranny fluid these days for rusted nuts and bolts etc...Thanx; Jethro
We're the piston pin bushing on the connecting rods damaged in anyways from the Chem dip?
GUNK makes a similar product, they both work really good for piston / rod clean up. You just wear rubber gloves, and scrub a bit with tooth brush. Tons of stuff comes off. Groves are hard, but this will help.
Thank You for information and advice
I've used the Chem dip before. It works very well.
You should be brushing with a nylon toothbrush....on some parts a copper brush can be used. This helps a LOT.
Auto Zone has a piston groove cleaner on their loaner tool program just $25 and you get it all back when you bring the tool back.
I used a rotary wheel brush to clean most of the carbon off I just couldn't get the grooves all clean.
Thanks for posting this video. I've been trying to clean intake valves with Seafoam and its not as effective as what you demonstrated.
After you soak it in Berryman carb-parts cleaner, which I have, what do you use to remove all the cleaner residue and then what do you do for the needle bearings for the wrist pin as far as lubricating them? Needle bearing grease, or just coat them good with 2 cycle oil? Maybe some one can give some advice. I think I will ask a boat mechanic before using this stuff on my pistons, even though I don't think it will hurt if I get all the Berryman's off and lubricate the bearings. I also thought about putting the piston deep enough to get to the grooves but not deep enough to submerge the wrist pins.
it's a good thing that you made this video. maybe now people will realize that there is no such thing as a "miracle bottle" of combustion cleaner that you can simply pick up at autozone, and pour it into your motor, and expect to see results like that.
+Jeff Fuehr It only works on 1.9 Litre 4-cyl Saturn Wagons painted the same shade of purple as Barney the Dinosaur and have Bright Orange powder coated valve covers
+Jeff Fuehr Steam works great for cleaning valves and intakes.
Thank's, This helped me a lot.
will keep this stuff in mind!
Does anyone know if any of these cleaners might eat-into the various cylinder coatings that any of the manufacturers use these days?
I.e NickaSil, AluSil etc
Crystal Draino with a little bit of water and Aluminum Foil balls in a bucket works great!
Gloves, eye protection and a brush. Scraping can mar parts . I have used Chem-Dip and it worked well for me.
Great tip. Thanks.
took you suggestion on a 305 sbc rebuild i found out that i could do 4 pistons at a time 2 face down and 2 with rod end down after 30 to 45 minutes i just switched them around 30 to 45 more minutes 4 pistons are clean while i am rinseing the first 4 off the other 4 are soaking, thanks
Is this stuff safe to soak the pistons in while it's still in the cylinder by removing spark plugs and pouring directly?
That is crazy I have used B12 to clean carboned up valves and my Dad has used it since 1991. The metal can that does not say "Fuel Injector Cleaner" should be insanely strong.Saturn's older I4 and V6's are well known for carbon issues and oil consumption and in general GM has been plagued with carbon issues on piston tops, valves and the injection systems that used popet valves and a central injector. MMO is fine for a continual use thing as a preventive or if you have a ticking lifter but it is not going to clean anything. It is too mild.
Any advice if I can use it on top of the piston from the spark plug hole to each cylinder to clean off carbon buildup then I can suck it up with vacuum? how long should I soak it in ? And do I need to use like carb cleaner afterward to kinda lubricate the the piston and the cylinder wall ?
could you do with this what you would do with seafoam and put it in your oil just to get all the sludge out prior to an oil change
I don't see any piston oil return holes, are there any? Think that was the engine design flaw in that year. The piston oil return holes are located (supposed to be) inside the oil control ring groove. Without the holes oil has nowhere to go, problems return after a while.
Do you know if it works also for 2stroke - when it burns petrol with oil?
A brass, round, 3/4 inch brush a Dremel tool works fantastic.
Oven Cleaner works very well. Spray, let soak for 30 minutes, scrub with brush, and you should be good to go. Do it all the time. Use gloves.
the focus is making me feel sick hahaha, but good video though man :) want to do an engine rebuild in the near future!
Did u tri oven cleaner it works for my intake manifold
Do as I say not as I do :-). Handy vid. cheers
I cleaned the pistons with BBQ/grill cleaner. Worked great!
Ya?
can you leave the piston in the tin of chemical over night? just an idea?
i've used chem dip bare handed for years with no ill effects, great for getting grease build up off hands if you don't have gloves, just still wash your hands with soap and water after and it does rinse off with water with no issues.
Agree
I use easy off grill cleaner. Just spray it on, wait 20 minutes and spray it off with a water hose. Only the toughest carbon will remain which will go away with a 2nd application.
Spray can of cheap no name oven cleaner works for me every time. Just spray it on and work it in the grooves and stained areas with a paint brush for a couple of minutes and rinse. All done (actually many pistons done) for a couple of bucks a can.
Just run you a sink full of very hot water and some dish washing liquid. Let the parts soak for awhile. Run another sink full of hot water. Use some SOS pads and they will come clean and shiny. I've been doing this for years and it works every time. The great thing is, it's so cheap and your parts get washed in the process. Ready for assembly.
when I was a kid working on anything I could get my hands on, and old airplane mechanic told me to rev up my flat head Ford 59 a.b that I was going to take apart , to around 2000 r,p.m. and por water in the carburetor 5 or 6 time's, and it would spit and sputter and back fire, and it would clean the carbon off the pistons and combustion chamber, well I did it and it worked, so I have been doing this every time since, on ever engine I have had to build, that would still run,. in a few cases when I was to broke to fix it at the time and had to drive it regardless and it burned a lot of oil and smoked real bad sometimes it cut the oil usage in half, and the smoke the same way. try it before you take it apart, it will be much cleaner in side .
The version I heard was to put an ice cube on top of the carb and let it slowly drip water into the throat.
I use oven cleaner on Aluminum heads and it cleans them to absolute perfection
I did the same just didnt leave it in for prolonged period of time on the set i was going to use on my build and a test set i was going to junk i left it on for about an hour and it did nothing but left it looking amazingly clean
Can this free stuck piston rods and wirst pins?
Any luck using that stuff to dip a piston with stuck carboned up piston rings...And actually loosen the rings using this stuff?
I recognize that voice from The Ammo Channel!
I wish you would return to youtube. A lot of people miss your videos.
I used a copper wire brush with Dawn Platinum and it cleaned up like 80% on the junk on the Pistons of my truck in like 45 min
Nothing cleans stuff like that better than pressurized steam. The only problem is trying to find a steam pressure cleaner.
I use chem dip on all funked up engine parts. It gets them clean just as in this video. iN fact some come out looking so clean that wear areas immediately appear even before a thorough rinsing. Cleaning pistons is an absolute snap with a new jug of chem dip.
+Robert Rowlands Im gonna hire you for my next commercial!
You can purchase a ring groove cleaning tool from NAPA, inexpensive. We would use ultrasonic tub for jet engine parts, even the re-useable filters. I wouldn't want to purchase though, however I'll bet there are shops around that would clean them ultra-sonically for a small charge.
You need to try Super clean, just spray the pistons, let them sit for 15 min then use a tooth brush.Repeat the process until all the carbon is gone.The carbon just seems to melt off! It's only $7.99 in Canada
HOW ABOUT PISTON PIN , I KNOW THATS CHROME , WAS IT OK ??
so how are you supposed to lube the wrist pin?
Hi a chap on here says that that stuff you are using shouldn't come in contact with a shiney surface ...like the gudgeon pin ??
The worst car I ever bought was a brand new 1995 Saturn SL. Pistons were always full of carbon and getting the spark plugs filled up with gunk and had to replace them every couple of months. They replaced the pistons for free at 30K miles, then when the warranty was expired I noticed the spark plugs getting dirty again. It had oil/filter changes often and burned oil. Worst car I ever bought. I will never buy a Saturn again.
Use BBQ grill cleaner, found at Lowes, Home Depot or any hardware store. That stuff will turn the carbon deposits to liquid, that you can wash off. This is the zero labor method.
Brian Zero Read the ingredients in oven cleaner.
Careful...Sodium Hydroxide eats aluminum. However I'm not sure how it acts with high silicone aluminum alloy...I'd stay on the safe side.
I was at the local WalMart today picking up some automotive accessories and was surprised to find that they carry the Berryman Chm-Dip. The price? $18.54. Pretty good deal... :)
I wound up using very hot water dawn dish soap and plastic bristle brushes and some scotchbright. Ive heard the epa compliant berrymans sucks now; the old stuff lasts years, dunk carb pull jem...before the bath i used a metal can just a bit larger than the piston filled with acetone to handle inside the wrist pins, the liquid after was blood red. and concluded with them looking new with the oil control ring land perfectly clean (h22a)
Nothing beats oven cleaner after all these years. Spray wait 10 minutes, wipe it off.
Berryman chem dip is absolutely phenomenal at dissolving carbon buildup on engine parts that you look at and go ' how the fuck am I gonna clean that?'. My experience on a Honda inline 2 liter and a ford 351 is it works just as well as is demonstrated in this video. If you can get the part submerged in this stuff it WILL get the carbon off and come out totally clean. On really funked up pistons it might take about four dips and cleaning, scraping loosened crud between dips. You gotta scrape off the crud between dips so the chem can attack deeper carbon buildup. Rinse and repeat. Every last speck of carbon is off. Then measure piston, and toss in trash can. lol
I've been using that cleaner to soak parts for years, it does a great job but needs time to work. Also pick up an assortment of medium stiff nylon brushes to work the crap out of the nooks and crannies on parts. I stopped using oven cleaner a long time ago, some brands can be caustic on non-ferrous metals and etch the surface.
Good stuff but, Don't breathe too much of it, it's deadly.
+Mike Buck Absolutely, you have to be safe.
...Good deal....Berrymans is about the last supplier of anything that works....and they used to be better, but the EPA made them remove a few of the ingredients that made it work for carbon.....still works pretty well for carb's....a gallon of that stuff is waaaay over $30 here in Calif..... Another dis-continued product is Gunk Hydro-seal.....it was terrific for aluminum, and other 'soft' metals that you couldn't put in the heated caustic soda tanks that were for cast-iron blocks... Gunk Hydro-seal was the only cleaner recommended by Harley-Davidson for cleaning pistons and other carboned-up stuff....and you know how old Harleys were, right..?
You sound like Kevin spacey!
Wonder if we can get this stuff in the health and safety bound UK?
Thanks for the vid, very useful.
:)
Great tip. I wonder where I can find this in Baja Mexico. I'm doping a VW Gol right now. Not golf GOL. Weird Mexican car made in brasil. It's a VW with no options; no air bags nothing and its a 2014. I'm doing new piston rings head gasket etc. I'll probably post some videos about it in the future.
I took the intake manifold off of my 2001 Honda odyssey in order to clean the carbon build up in the EGR port. While the manifold was off I cleaned out the ports using carb cleaner and it cleaned up nicely. I looked at the opening ports on the motor and since they were built up with carbon I sprayed them as well. After I was done I started my van up and it's idling rough. After a lot of googling I shouldn't have sprayed carb cleaner in the ports on the motor. What to do next? Is this something a normal auto shop can fix or do I need to take it to a specialist? Is it an expensive job?
You may have left a vacuum holes unplugged.
Nice Video
I had to remove carbon build-up from a lot of Continental and Lycoming airplane engines. There could be up to an 1/16th of an inch of carbon on the top of the piston and a fair amount was lodged in the ring grooves. I used a glass bead cabinet blaster (same as a sand blaster but uses a different blasting media) for the piston crown and a modified piston ring to scrape the grooves (not supposed to blast the ring area because the media has a tendency to round the 90° edges). The reason we used glass beads instead of sand is the glass would break apart upon impact with the surface, removing the carbon but leaving the cast aluminum piston in tact where sand would start causing damage shortly after exposure.
This carbo dissolving chemical looks promising.
I once put a small engine carburetor in one of those in a dissolved the surface I left it in too long hahaha like a week I forgot it in there but it works great just don't forget about it lol
that stuff is like the old Safety Kleen Carb cleaner that came in a 5 gallon pail. we used to call carb acid but it was not acid . in the pail went a dip basket with an agitator on top that was air operated. carbs came out like the day they were made . and pistons looked brand new. but this stuff was nasty
Yep, eat your skin if you get it on you, and those fumes!!! Used Gunk Carbeurator dip for years!!
I wish they still made the Chem-Dip from 30 years ago. That stuff was awesome. It was pretty toxic stuff. They quit making it because people weren't wearing gloves and it absorbed through the skin readily.
i've been working on internal combustion products for years on end, gasoline, all the carb cleaners, diesel, oils gear lubes, greases, propane, butane, acetylene etc, i forgot where i put the list but it took a full page and a half on lined paper, all the toxic stuff, oh and a daily dose of carbon monoxide exposure, and in a shop without windows, only the chimney, welding flux gasses constantly, without gloves respirators, only oily dirty rags and some cheezy hand cleaner. i'm almost 60 with 30 year old health. with all meat and alcohol diet. and only just recently did a health symptom appear out of nowhere, it was like a middle back pain that migrated up one side and then the other finally into my shoulder and elbow and hand, on one side only now. medical advise said to go immediately to the hospital, I got more motors to work on, no way was i going to the drs, they suck worse than the new cleaners, the pain is fading, but i think it could be an exposure thing from chemicals. we are plain products of what we do. i bought some disposable gloves.
10 milligrams of Valium before bed will fix your back if its muscular you will know by the morning even works on my old dog
suzuki methracer (lol) no really, i bet that'd fix almost anything. that'd be a whole different adventure. only tried them once as a teenager, and a couple lilly F40s(a different time as a teenager, I kind of like those, felt like the baddest assed teenager,) then in early 20s' alone i got a motel, bought a 20 dollar bag of tar split it and did one half of it, instantly threw up but didn't feel sick and went to sleep for 16hrs, woke up did the other half, same exact thing my late 20s an ex girlfriend of my brother's talked me into by a "lode?" for 40 bucks, I did. woke up the next day in her trailer, all that was left was a pair of boxers, everything else was gone, wallet and all. but 4 months ago, i wrote about the strange back pain, muscle, nerves or psychologically caused. it went away, only to return as an entire different set of what felt like life threatening signs and symptoms 2 more times that ended with tooth aches, to which I prescribed myself some fish mox250 mg 3 times a day for 2 weeks, the third was some hellacious radiating and travelling pain in my head, from another toothache, i ended up taking over 4000mg daily of acetominophen tylenol, with 1000 mg of exedrin pm on top of 8x's over the maximum allowable alcohol (40 ounce king cobras) limit daily with the stuff, for 4 days in a row, only then i found out it i might die from taking that much. plus it only helped for an hour or 2, on the same night found out that another treatment of fish mox was needed, i bumped up the dosage to 500 mg 3xs daily for 1 week. the first 500mg completely ended the pain within an hour. my face was swelled up. I don't go to drs. or hospitals nor dentist. I got a couple of teeth that broke off piece by piece and figured what did we do before dentist? besides grunt and hunt. I probably should get those teeth pulled. after i cram in a newly put together carburetor rack, keihin 20 or 22mm that goes on a sweet
red cb400f 1976. been riding it since early 80s. putting a yellow one together, from the ground up, all on the floor.
@@buckwheat7424 --Dude !!!!!
Count your blessings that you are still able to breathe...Im not gonna go into my judgemental opinions but do think that you ARE AWARE of possible consequences coming your way...So long story short i would HIGHLY recommend that you get yourself informed and immediately start CHELATION THERAPY...In particular-ORAL intake of EDTA...Good luck to y'a.
Afterthought before posting this:::: Heres the link,,watch this...
ua-cam.com/video/xJOITLEiqqY/v-deo.html
Let buck wheat live like a boss till his dying day which I hope is a long time from now. It's a mental game too. Worry like a nervous wreck about everything and you'll be in the grave.
Did you ever try using an ultrasonic cleaner?
Pour the contents of that can into an ultrasonic cleaner and clean in that.
Profit.
+FrozenHaxor
heating the fluid up might help to speed up chemical reaction...
+SladkaPritomnost Some fancier ultrasonic cleaners have a heating function as well.
+SladkaPritomnost I dont see the point of heating anything up only to walk away and forget about an open flame. I just let it soak for days until I get back to it. No sense in babysitting parts. If I had a shop thrn yes I'd have a hot Dip Tank but for Joe Blow people like us, its good enough.
he had a hard time opening the box
If you have an ultrasonic cleaner it should clean those bits out of the ring grooves fairly quickly with plain laquer-thinner. It might be worth the investment given the amount of time you will be spending on this project.
Highly recommend B12 chemtool
Chem dip is basically Laquer thinner So you can save some Bux if you don't need the basket.
have you ever considered a brass brush?
Pb buster makes a tune fluid that works realllllly good
glass bead blaster will clean em up, but you have to tape over the wrist pins
I used zep cleaner degreaser w/ faster effect using hot water & cleaning gun even cleans a whole block & bolts cleans right up
best thing i ever found that is also clear coat safe is a product called super clean (non foaming formula) it removes carbon and 40 year old brake dust build up almost instantly- 1 gallon jug bout 9$ @ walmart- u can literately watch it desolve in front of your eyes
DoSumpthin, can you do this procedure with the pistons still in the engine? I'm trying to achieve the same effect without having to dismantle the entire engine.
I was wondering the same. I would like to squirt some in overnight and suck out what I can then change the oil and run the engine, then change the oil again.
What about oven cleaner? That stuff is horrible to breathe, burns if you get it on your skin and cleans burnt carbon out of an oven no problem. Would it work on steel?
I use Chem-Dip when I'm doing SERIOUS carb cleaning. Put the parts in the bucket, put the lid and wait 24 hours. An ultrasonic cleaner would make the process go a lot faster.
I wonder if this would clear out the gum in the compression and oil rings while still in the engine. I wonder if it would work if you poured some into the spark plug holes and let it soak overnight.
Rick West
I was thinking the same thing and I’ve been trying to find someone who has done it and posted their experience on UA-cam.
Did u find something?
Anything yet on the spark plug hole soak idea?
good for manifolds too esp if you want to paint / ceramic coat them etc turbo cars amd so on.
That looks good. I'm in the middle of an engine overhaul.. I could use some thing like that. Where could I this product...
Does that carb cleaner remove the special coatings on some aluminum pistons?
probably. but if the carbon is a worse issue then its okay
that stuff taste good
Hey whats up man am doing my mk4 vr6 24 valve engine and am having some trouble on putting back the pistons with the new rings.
Any links or ideas on how to put it in i dont want to brake my new rings thanks
I think they make a tool for that piston ring expander or something like that I could be wrong but you might be able to rent one at Autozone
Yes man! Pretty cheap tool called a ring compressor, and you put the piston in from the top of the cylinder rod first. Of you are talking about putting the rings on the piston. There is a tool for that. A ring expander.
I just use Easy-Off oven cleaner and old tooth brushes but that Chem dip works well. Solvents don't do much against carbon deposits
Yes, solvents tend to harden them. The brake fluid I recommended above does not do this which is why it works so well.
Bought the Chem-dip yesterday to clean the pistons and the engines head of my Harley. This stuff didn't work like the video shown. I dipped my pistons for in the can for over 1/2 hour then removed them out but nothing change the carbon still there.
If you would have heated it to round 100 degs Great small engine carb dip. and fire arms real cleans good
They make this thing called a ring groove cleaner and any one that has done engines knows how to use it you should give it a try next time.
Another smart azz know it all as usual. This guy nor me are Engine Builders by any means so we work with what we have thats FREE. I'm an Electrician and done my motors this way for years. Big Deal. The only thing he didnt do was pay some shop $1,000s so that some in-house $12 an hour Floor Dog Flunkie could do it for them. The man was kind enough to take the time to share a Valuable Life Experience with us all through Self Help but all and you can do is Sharp Shoot him down. Says allot about your character as a person. The end result was money saved $.
I see your offended about a comment, for educational purposes he said that can of chemicals was 30$, for 17$ you can get the actual tool!
Hmmm 🤔 so if you would put it straight into the engine of a v-twin, i mean top it up really good then drain/ flush with clean oil . In theory you end up with clean engine ?
Can you pour some of this stuff through spark plug holes and let it soak for somedays and spin the engine without spark plugs to let the cleaner out?
I had a similar question. Lol
U can do whatever you want. What you want to know is will it do any damage?
Drill 3/16 holes through the oil ring groove. At least 6-8 holes. If you don`t the rings will gum up again. Thats how I fixed my Saturn for good.