Removing Carbon From Piston, Cylinder Walls, and Block Deck
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Today I am removing carbon buildup from combustion chamber, the tops of the pistons, and removing debris from the engine block deck. If these areas are not clean, it can lead to hot spots in the cylinder, and a poorly sealing head gasket. I am using WD-40® Trigger Pro® and Scotchbright pads. Visit the blog ~ humblemechanic....
Support for this video was provided in part by WD-40®.
WD-40® on Amazon ~ amzn.to/2aQsd5C
Scotch bright Pads ~amzn.to/2aQpb1u
Gasket Scraper ~ amzn.to/2aQuNcn
Join me today as we:
~Remove debris from the head gasket surface
~Remove carbon buildup from the top of Pistons
~Remove carbon from tops of the cylinder bore
~How to take care NOT to damage cylinder wall
~Inspect for cross hatching of cylinder
~When to take engine block to machine shop
~and more
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I am not a mechanic although I worked on my own cars in the 70's and 80's. Here is a tip I always remembered from my father. You can build a grease dam around each Piston crown at the sleave when removing carbon. This will help with debree getting down between the crown. Then when done move the Piston a little down and wipe the wall and piston clean.
Fuck me that's one helluva smart trick! I had my engine head off and wanted to clean the block whilst it was still in the bay. After a bit of scrubbing I realized I got a shitload of debris and scotchbrite pad material down in the channels and around the piston rings. But then I noticed the block was junk anyway so I took it off and junked it. But next time I'm doing the block still in the car, I will use your dad's method!
That's a great tip, I'm doing it now on my old Lada Riva, thanks.
Now that's a hell of a trick! Simply genius!
What a great idea.
If your worried about debris, Just use a Shop Vac to vacuum it all out. Never had issues. I always do this when replacing intake gaskets.
Here in the jungle in Costa Rica we do not have much, but we do have WD-40. Your method worked perfectly on my 10 year-old Niva. I can read the piston stamps as clear as new! You are too humble.
Awesome review!
10year-old Niva its new car!!! Hi from Russia:))) my dad have 22year-old niva,not bad car:))
I think you should mention that depending on the material the block is made from, different tools and techniques should be used to prevent damage to the mating surfaces of aluminium blocks.
I'm a mechanic and I approve this message. 👍
just as a matter of interested, the complete meaning of WD-40 is water displacement formula #40, as that formula was obviously the 40th attempt at an H2O displacement product. I totally dig your videos. Well presented with no unnecessary rambling about whatever, to the point with great info. I'd never seen nor heard of the WD-40 and Scotch Brite on the piston tops. Superb idea. Thanks and keep up the great vid's.
I have met other "so called" mechanics that could do an engine "overhaul" in three hours.
It took me three hours just to get the engine out and stripped down. Then started the cleaning!!!
I pretty much watch all your vids just to try and understand how your so calm, cool, and collected. I just got the heads of my 5.3 in my work truck and every single chevy forum said to never scrape or use the scotch bright. But I trust you more than I trust them.
I always used brake cleaner on piston tops and the block deck. Never thought about WD-40 for that purpose. Awesome video!
+Steven p right on!!
I did this on my XJ's I6 engine a few months ago with nearly 200k miles on it. It definitely is as easy as your video shows. Felt good to clean all that build up off.
did you it with the engine out? i’m cutting getting my cylinder head machined and was wondering if it can be done with the bloc still in the engine bay.
I love how 95% of people who have posted NO informational posting on auto repairs chirp up about someone else's shortcoming after sitting back int their Directors chair pointing every little thing "wrong" with this post. Sweep off your own front porch and thanks for posting Charles.
This method actually worked really well for me. The wd and pads makes the gasket lift right off. The one thing was the debris getting better the piston and cylinder walls, I ended up getting a bit out but I’m not sure if I need to be worried or not
Howd it go
@@Jet_Hammer spun a bearing, I’m thinking the degree clogged the passages within the crank and starved a bearing but who knows
The best thing I have found for this task is Chore Boy Stainless Steel scrubbing pads. These pads are like steel wool pads, but instead it is a thin, narrow, tighly coiled SS ribbon formed into a pad.These are made for cleaning cooked on crud on frying pans and such. They cut through the carbon like it was butter, and are non-abrasive, unlike Scotchbrite pads. I cleaned the carbon build up in the cylinders and on the pistons on my Kia 4-banger that I am working on, and it took no time at all.
also having done turbines , using a nice flat stone to surface your block is also nice little trick , i learned from doing millwright work in the past ,,,thanks for sharing ,,,cleanliness is godliness LOL
As a machinist, DO NOT use an air or electric powered grinder / sander with a roll lock disc! You can not keep the disc straight when sanding. You always end up with low spots in the deck surface or rounded corners of water jackets and bores!
Yep, made that mistake with my Oldsmobile alero 10 years ago. Just bought a new 2017 Honda HR-V in 2017 and will only clean the engine as this guy has stated in the video when the time comes. 148,000 miles in, and it runs like a champ.
Use ear plugs for the oil passage holes. Works great.
yo guys. wd40 is a great and reliable product. it's great to prevent rust on items you're leaving sit for a long time, clean tools, get rust off, clean grease. it is not however a lubricant, any beginner hobby mechanic knows this. the best part is it flashes off exhaust and such with less smelly smoke than most other cleaners or nut looseners. that said, why are people bitching about him using wd40 for this job? it's a great product for said task lol.
Great feedback. I was really surprised how well WD40 worked here. I have found that people have several issues.
1) Any time a video is sponsored, there is kick back. It could be the best product ever and there would be heartburn
2) People have intense brand loyalty. If I shoot a video about Mobile1, the Mobile one haters will hate, even though they make a great product.
3)Most people don't consider it a professional brand. I don't really get that, because I have seen WD40 in tons of shops over the years.
It is really interesting to do videos like this and see the comments. We(me included) become married to our beliefs and often struggle to be open to different ways of doing things.
I totally see what you're saying on all 3 points bro. I think the bigger issue is people don't even know how t use what they have. Use Brakleen as MAF cleaner, MAF breaks, they complain, use torque wrench as a breaker bar, it stops working they complain, use WD40 as a purpose made lubricant, or cleaner, they complain... I guess the consistency is, people just love to complain haha.
I always pull my plugs and spray the hell out of the cylinders for long periods. I just pulled a 355 apart that I stored since 1990, the cylinders had zero rust, and I live 2 miles from salt water.
I always save the WD-40 red straw and leave it in the glove box. Once I drowned an AMC eagle up to the dash and got water in the carb. When we got it out of the puddle, I used the red straw to suck the float bowls clean with my mouth to get it running. It worked good.
I liked your video and think I learned something from it, no matter what the naysayers say.
All I have to say is thank you so much. I have never been able to clean the top of pictures as well as you did in this video. I know this is an older video and you might not ever see my comment but I still wanted to thank you for sharing. I also love that WD-40 spray bottle. I could not even guess how many times I have sprayed myself in the face with the aerosol can. Again thank you for your time all sharing this with all of us and it will definitely come in handy for me. I have 2 Motor jobs sitting outside my garage and I'm definitely using your technique.
Thanks so much!!
My go to fluids for any mechanical repairs:
Deep Creep for loosening nuts and bolts
WD 40 for Cleaning Carbon or preventing rust
Paint Thinner for washing parts
Acetone or Brake Cleaner and compressed air for final clean up right before assembly
Charles aren't you concerned that bolting a the head on with the valves making a nice tight seal that you will induce blow by past the old tings & bore? Or did you do a leak-down test to confirm the rings were good. Thanks for these very informative videos, keep them coming.
+Chuck Ashton at this point I am not worried about it. The engine ran well before hand.
The WORST case is, I have to replace the rings down the road. While I a confident that everything will be fine, I don't mind doing rings down the road.
I’m doing my moms engine on her 05 caravan. And the carbon is so caked up on the pistons that it’s taking forever to take off with a plastic paint scraper. I never thought to try WD40. Thank you.
How I love the sweet smell of WD-40 in the morning...
😂😂😂
Good stuff. Thank for not wasting time showing us how to build a "high performance" build
I clicked on this video just to say I use WD40 to clean carbon from pistons and heads but I see that's what you use too. lol! Best product ever. Will even free stuck rings in high mileage engines.
Great video! I love how you break every step of your work down and keep it simple while informative. Keep it up HumbleMechanic!
You should call Discovery's Fast N Loud's and be a fill in for
Aaron Kaufman
If you don't like all that sharp carbon going into your engine and ruining the oil and water pumps, smear some grease around the edges of the pistons to catch it. It will stick in the grease when you move the piston down. Also, stuff the foam that was cut from the back of those scouring pads down the oil and waterways. It won't fall apart like paper and mostly holds itself in. It is easy to extract with long nose pliers if is pushed in a bit too far. WD40 does work. A small flat round ended spanner makes a good scraper for the piston crowns. A large roll of paper is essential.
good luck☺
I thought for a second " oh cool Aaron has a channel".
I've tried literally everything and I always go back to WD-40 good video!
How much of that SB pad are you leaving between the cylinder wall & piston top & in the ring groove ?
You know there's been many TSBs saying to not use SB disks but SB is SB.
"Scotch-Brite is a line of abrasive cleaning pads produced by 3M. The original product line consisted of
spun polypropylene fiber with about nine grit variations. Scotch-Brite also contains "Alox", which is a trade name for aluminum oxide."
&
"Aluminium oxide is used for its hardness and strength. It is widely used as an abrasive, including as a much less expensive substitute for industrial diamond"
I had the same concern. I once worked with a diesel mechanic doing a head gasket job on a mack truck, he did basically what is shown in this video. I now work at a reputable engine machine shop running the cleaning area and I use wire brush wheels to clean cast iron gasket surfaces, does not remove metal unless I dwell too long or run up an edge. I would recommend a wire wheel for a mechanic as well, it's going to make less abrasive debris.
B Anno dealers problem not everybody's
CHARLIE ARROYO
First off a SB pad will not give the specific surface recommended by any gasket manufacturer.
You can google
"gasket surface recommendation"
if you care for the facts.
SB does however give a great surface if you use silicone excessively instead of a "gasket" like so many uneducated so called mechanics do.
But then again you have an abrasive particle issue.
&
Any abrasive left in any engine is not a good thing and it will eventually if not immediately do damage.
+B Anno You are getting a little too technical now. Do you think gas stations gave a fuck in the 1930s what the microns of a head were when they changed a model A head gasket. Get with the program.
B Anno Correct!
NEVER USE SCOTCHBRITE TO CLEAN UP GASKET SURFACES OF AN ENGINE.
NEVER, EVER, EVER USE SCOTCHBRITE ON AN ENGINE. At least not one you want to run again for a long time.
Scotchbrite seems so benign but it is death to engines. Scotchbrite pads are nylon fibers with 40 micron particles of aluminum oxide in them. Scotchbrite dust leaves behind all those 40 micron particles hidden everywhere. Aluminum oxide is an extremely aggressive abrasive. It imbeds in the bearings and eats the crank....and other things.
Scotchbrite is the bane of the aftermarket re-man engine industry.
www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=563163
I use "industrial" paint remover that you can spray. You don't even need to scrub. It removes oil and carbon super easy. You spray it once or twice and rinse off with brake cleaner. I kinda like the burning feeling of it on my bare hands also. ;)
I cleaned a junk yard motor last week and it works awesome. WD40 is nice, but you'll need a lot of scrubbing.
Easy Off oven cleaner works amazingly for that application
I have heard that before. I need to try it.
Yep, that stuff was made to eat carbon.
'Easy Off' and its equal is lye, sodium hydroxide and breaks down organic compounds such as grease, oil and oxidized fats. It's also highly alkaline and attacks aluminum quickly. It's ineffective on regular, hard carbon deposits but okay on the softer variety normally associated with baked-on fats. 'Hard' carbon requires far more aggressive chemistry or just mechanical abrasives and hard work.
Oven cleaner can also damage and pit aluminum. While safe to use on iron blocks and pistons, it is not safe to use on aluminum.
Yes it does. But if engine was running all you had to do is run water through intake with engine running suck up water from cup with vacuum line and it will look like new
cleaned up nicely, only add that when I do mine I use some oiled string around the piston tops, it stops some of the debris falling into the rings.
+Victorylane L that's a pretty good idea!
This man does not blink. Great vid though man
this reminds me of a jafromobile video
I watched the shit out those, but last time i checked like a year ago maybe he didn't have any new stuff
jafro es muy pro
This video sure fits that happy jafromobile niche. :)
I can't tell you how many times I have seen techs use die grinders & rolox pads to destroy perfectly good heads and blocks (mostly aluminum) by creating depressions and rounding off sharp edges. YES, the tech almost always pays for the parts...and the hard learned lesson. Good luck.
thank you showing us how easy scrubbing carbon build up on cylinder top.
Wd40 dries completely overnight, I've used it industrially for years. For certain applications, I'll add an ounce of oil or atf the the spray bottle to prevent complete drying
for god's sake man, blink, you're freaking me out! BLINK, DAMN YOU, BLINK!
George Tsiros but when you blink, the camera steals your soul. Ahha
+Jack Frost I deleted one of your comments. It was not really appropriate. One may have went to spam. That happens from time to time.
I'd recommend you put your energy into building a YT channel that teaches people the right way as you see it.
HumbleMechanic i just tried to be funny, i did not intend to be insulting :( i am more interested in motorbikes tho, learning how to maintain my 1998 honda hornet
+George Tsiros hahahha no worries man. I was just playing around. Hah
***** of course. You can break something more than once.
In the old days of leaded fuel that caused a lot of coke build up you could get water injection fitted and the steam exploding in the combustion process helped prevent coke build up ,I took a head off once and the leaking coolant into one cylinder had a piston crown looking brand new.
would pouring drops of water into the intake while the engine is idling have the same effect? it seems that manually doing it like that is more effective but I am not really inclined to disassemble my engine right now
That is basically the Seafoam treatment. U can pull a vaccum line with direct to intake vaccum and use it to suck in water or seafoam. the shock of the cold liquid will release some of the deposits and shoot them out of the tailpipe. Using this method u would let the engine draw in fluid untill the engine runs really ruff but does not turn off. There are vids on how to do this. It should be safe to perform but be aware damage could result.
Remove the catalytic converter if your going to try this or you will damage it . Bg and other companies say that their products are cat safe but I don't believe that to be true , the cat wasn't designed to handle large deposits .
Yes light spray but it won't get near all of it.. only way is to remove the head and dip it in gasoline. Pro tip delete ur pcv engine sooo clean
Jimmy Schmidt
Engine produces water as it runs. Lots.
If you think thermal shock cleans off carbon try dumping ice into a hot carbon-caked skillet. Ice will skip around and melt, that’s all.
You ignore the Liedenfrost effect when you claim thermal shock works using water.
great video! I love sped up footage and the time lapse you did. it's neat to not miss anything and still have a reasonably short video!
So I followed all these steps ,my question is how and what do you use to rinse the bore and pistons
The question I have is pretty simple. What is a normal amount of carbon expected on the cylinder heads/combustion chamber. I purchased a boat with a 5.7L V8 chevy small block and the combustion chamber looked like it had a decent amount of carbon like you are showing when inspecting with a small borescope through the plug openings. Engine works perfectly fine and cylinder walls look good.
Watched your video and tried your method on a Moto Guzzi head and piston, came up really well, I didn't know that WD40 could do this so well. Big Thanks for the tip.
Great video man, never thought about using WD-40. I always used carb cleaner sprayed on either a tooth brush or the scotch brute. Mind you I never sprayed carb cleaner directly on the block or in the cylinders.
At my machine shop all we use to clean decks are carbide scrapers. It makes easy work of it.
Scrapers are the right way to do this along with gasket remover.
I have enjoyed your videos for some time now. Thank you for continuing the content and good luck with the career modification.
VR6!
Is there a part-2 for this project? I'm interested in seeing how you measured the cylinder head and engine block mating surface after they were cleaned. Also interested in the step-by-step process for re-assembly and understanding the reason for re-assembling with a metal gasket instead of an OEM gasket. I'm new at this and trying to learn as much as possible. Your videos are packed with useful information and they're greatly appreciated. Thank You Charles.
There are other engine building video for this engine. The block ended up torn down much further than I expected to. Look the white wookie playlist
Nice & one of the better video's!
+Eric Jacibi thank you!
HumbleMechanic are you really in humble Tx?
No, he's based out of North Carolina.
Nice man, i'm learning a lot here. I'm not a mechanic but like you explain it -everybody can do this.
Thanks so much :)
I mean, anyone is capable of most anything if you really apply yourself, you just have to want to do it and have an open mind and patience
I think its safe to say if someone was building a 1000 hp engine they wouldnt be here watching this as an instruction video lol
im just worming my way thru you tube only reason im watching
A Razor blade across the head deck surface. A wire drill tool on pistons. Then Lithium grease spray around piston rings while then turning piston downwards to wipe cylinder wall clean. Rinse repeat until clean. Scotch Brite pads will get in oil of engine and ruin bearings.
Word of caution using scotch/scuff pads. The fibers can fall into the oil galleys and if not cleaned out can plug oil restrictors destroying your engine.
I started this same task yesterday with a green scrubby but then read online that Scotch-Brite pads have abrasive aluminum oxide on them that gets itself into the engine and reduces life. Anyone have any input on this?
thats what im wondering noone mentions it!
Co-worker turned me onto the idea of cleaning gasket surfaces with a sharpening stone. Works like a block plane, to keep things level and smooth. You're still not going aggressively enough to remove material, but they work great for manifold gaskets etc.
+thethePete wow that's a cool idea!! I may have to give it a try.
HumbleMechanic soak it in varsol, he worked at a machine shop, so I trust his judgement.
My old boss thought I lost my mind one day. I used the guts from 3 vibrators powered by an r/c receiver battery pack and mounted all that to the top of a sanding block, then put green scotchbright pads on the bottom. I told him I didn't want to fuck up the cleaning job at hand.
My boss thought I was crazy when he seen me stick 3 vibrators and a scotchbrite pad up my butt.
+Ghost Watts
I would have too, that's just wierd.
Not really.They wernt the real big ones.
good video.
Thank you!
hi there. thanks for the video. what engine block is that? almost looks like part of a w12 block?
Liamautomechanic
Excellent video man! Super informative and clear as water to understand everything you need to know for cleaning this surfaces
My favorite way to remove carbon from a combustion chamber and piston crown is still introducing water through a vacuum port while the engine is running. Only works if you have a vacuum port on an intake runner though, such as most motorcycle engines.
fantastic video great reference for future... I'm looking forward to the head gasket replacement video.
+Joshua Weir thanks man. I think the headgasket video might just be the most popular video in the series. ;)
Are you sure that was enough WD-40
Thank you for the tips. I need to replace a valve on my dirt bike. I'm just cleaning everything up while I wait for parts.
Doing this to a snowblower
5:56 NOOOOOOO scratchhh
wd is great stuff. i prefer pb myself for these applications. just seems to cut into crap a little better. and i have the same problem at home where my air compressor just cant keep up with my die grinder. i just set the chuck up in a cordless drill. it's a bit slower but gets the job done and helps push the carpal tunnel out a few years lol
5:57 exactly why you don't want to scrape your deck surface like that.
Watch him scratch it.....
That's a great video ! I just did the same thing on a 24 year old Saturn SL2 and used a similar technique to yours. So now I feel that my "hack method" was not so bad given that a pro like you does this.
I just had 2 side questions with respect to your carbon build up:
1) where did most of it come from - valve stem seals on intake or piston rings ?
2) would the limited use if water injection keep the engine much cleaner ?
... just a few thoughts. Thanks again - you are a great UA-cam presenter !!
Forget like, love your videos man !!! highly professional and so well layed out!
Interesting you also used the 3M Roloc system with a pneumatic grinder. I first known from a video from FordTechMakuloco about using this. I'm member at a DIY car repair shop where we have air.
you can buy those pads at the dollar store for a dollar
No shit sherlock!
No those are snap on brand pads that are only $299 lol
I guess my only concern depends on whether the pistons are removed after this has been done. It’s just that all the carbon particles will be going down the side of the piston and into the piston rings.
4:48 look at those scotchbrite fibers fly!!! into the engine you go! burn up those main bearings, wheeee!
That's why you can't use the disk type they fling the stuff everywhere. Notice how he has the engine partly covered
Charles, I was taught not to use any chemicals on the cylinder walls unless rehoning and replacing the rings, because the chemical will remove the essential coating created by the oil and heat, What would your thoughts be about that?
Super scraper man. The best scraper there is.
DUUUDE... so much fluff!! get on with the repair already... i am at 4:30 of you just repeating yourself about the damn wd40.. we already know you are using the non-aerosol version.. cool idc...
For all the people wondering why he's using WD-40, it can be used to clean metal. It's a very non-volatile substance, so if you need to clean something and brake cleaner, carb spray, Seafoam, etc is too harsh, WD-40 is a good "safe" solvent. Another good choice is Marvel Mystery Oil. Personally, I would be using something a little stronger and not relying as much on the Scotchbrite pad, but that's just me.
sounds like a friendly mechanic nice video
Have you considered buying an old propane tank for a couple hundred bucks to convert to an air compressor. from my understanding they can hold more pressure than a standard tank and are cheaper.
razor blades and oven cleaner work real good too.
Awesome video, Charles. I'm going to do the same on my VW Golf AVH 2.0 engine today. I have engine on stand already.
The cleanest cylinder is the one where the gasket blew. If you take a spray bottle full of water and spray water into the intake while the engine running it will clean off the carbon.
Heard that scotch Brite should never be used because it will leave an uneven surface and aluminum oxide particulate from the pad being hard to remove. What are your thoughts?
I'm happy you found a sponsor but I'm surprised that as a professional mechanic you would be willing to advertise wd40.
I mean it's great at keeping water off but that's all it's good for.
+knexfreak32 why is that?
HumbleMechanic It seems at least to me that at points it's being advertised as a lubricant but it really not designed as such and doesn't really do a good job at all. But hey if it is a good revenue stream from them go ahead. (I haven't really watched the series but I do watch a video of yours here and there)
I'm also not really trying to say it's a bad thing to be sponsored by them but it is a bit surprising to see a professional mechanic advertising it.
Either way I wish you the best of luck on the build!
+knexfreak32 I completely understand what you're saying.
This was not really about money for me. It was about a chance to work with an iconic brand that everyone knows. And trying to do something with a product no one has done. And it surprisingly did a better job than I expected.
Are there other products out there that would do the same as this did? YEP. But that could be said about any product.
Thanks for the support. Funny enough it turns out this video was a total waste of time in the project. I'm Having to pull pistons and hone cylinders anyway. Lol :(
HumbleMechanic Hey man that really just earned you a lot of respect from me.
well i wish i could bring my car to someone like him or to ericthecarguy. really hard to find someone knows what they're doing. :) awesome video!
Jesus Christ, NEVER use scotchbrite on any internal engine component. The pads deteriorate and gets into the engine, a few hundred miles later the car will start knocking and lose oil pressure. Welcome to 1995.
I can't believe this isn't universal knowledge. Way too many stories of blown engines after head gasket repairs due to shops using scotchbrites and suddenly the bearings get eaten up.
Not gonna suggest an alternative?
Avalanche2
I just lit a small piece. It quickly and burned completely! So, what exactly is the danger?
Lol it's probably not from the scotchbrite..
Doing this to my 4.8 ls junker short block. But Ill be pulling the pistons and soft ball honing the cylinders.
Hi there not sure if any of you knew this I just discovered the cheat for removing carbon build up without using harsh solvents like your using. I bought cheap purple power brand citrus cleaner and sprayed it on my motorcycle engine head let it sit for 30 minutes and 5 minutes of scrubbing with a tooth brush it all came off.
Can you clean the cylinders by allowing some water to get sucked into the air intake when the engine is running?
Would you use the same scraper if the block was aluminum and not steel? What would you do differently for an aluminum block? Is the white plastic roloc disc ok for that?
aluminum surface prep compound is what you want
Hello there, I was wondering on how you learned to be a mechanic? Can you give any advice on the best route to take if I want to learn literally everything on being a mechanic in the most efficient amount of time. Thank you
Just use a dremel and a fune iron wheel brush on it. This will prevent deep scratches like you make within a few seconds of scraping the block.
Just on a side note the manufacturer I work for GM has bulletins to never use any whiz wheel or power tool to clean any surface on an engine,if an engine fails after a repair and any sign of using whiz wheel dealer charge back I've seen that happen twice in 16 years not a lot but something to keep in mind if you don't get it clean well after using or to aggressive with whiz wheel will cause damage.
Wow. Good info. I have seen guys have a very heavy hand with a power whee. T can be done well, but it takes the right touch for sure
How about running over the top surface of the block, with a precision ground stone, to knock off any dings or high spots?
Is that what a vr6 2.8 head looks like? Cool.
Great job Good choice on that vr6 tough engine, especially the aaa engine. the other vr6's are not as good in my opinion. not to mention these engine are balanced well so you can take a coin and it won't move much
you can also use ATF if you don't have wd40. Also, putting in a 1 quart ATF to 50 gallons gas ratio in your tank every fillup will help to keep the cylinders amazingly clean and can even clean really dirty ones out.
Can ATF be used on modern cars, I have a Chevy Cruze that can use a internal cylinder head cleaning. Was thinking of doing the water steaming technique.
I run tcw3(2 stroke boat oil) or marvel mystery oil in my gas at 1oz per 4 gal ratio. It's perfectly safe for modern engines.
Roloc is where it's at. :) Even on a drill, if you don't have air tools is better than nothing.
You made my day with WD 40! Cheers for the good video
Hey Charles, I am your huge fan. and i tried this but want to know, you are cleaning it, but the carbon can't be cleaned completely, and it will damage the cylinder walls and piston surfaces. M I right?. I think cleaning it separately may be a good idea.
cause i don't want to work again and again if a any residue damage the wall or surface.
how often do u did this and is it working fine for a long time.
M waiting for your answer.
Nice to see a video featuring a Mk3 VR6 (y)
Hi Charles. Awesome video! Can this cleaning method be applied to both cast iron and aluminium blocks and heads ? Thanks in advance
Don't use a steel scraper on aluminum
Do you ever worry about grit from the cleaning session getting between the piston and piston wall and that would later lead to scoring of the cyl walls? This kept going thru my mind as I was cleaning up a personal piston engine last month. I'm a turbine engine mechanic as my day job and have to constantly consider deeply detailed stuff of a different nature and wanted to ask if I might be worrying about something trivial :)
Less critical on car engine but you're right- I would lower piston now and then and clean what has dripped down
Loved this video , its so satisfying to clean all that carbon