Following through to your gallery... You have done amazing job on this Spitfire, and you have built the Spitfire that my Grandfather flew in Italy in the war. I asked Eduard if they could include a Spitfire that he flew in one of their upcoming releases, and they happily agreed. You have really done the kit justice. I am sure that my grandfather would have been proud! Thank you so much!
Super job and a great joy to watch your work......all aspects from the build, painting, weathering and commentary all come together to ensure that we, the viewers, have well spent the 27:32 minutes in awe of your fine details. Congrats for a beautifully completed model.
Your a GENIUS model builder, I am starting again 2nd time around, first time 15, second time 51 years old. Just doing some research, if can be half as good as you i will be happy.
Metodi, thank you for this video. It was a great help (watched several times like a good student). I just finished my Mk. IXc. Guessing you must be Bulgarian this malečki palečki will just say blagodarja.
Thanks mate. Yes its better for watching this way but for a simple kit I left out of the video so much stuff...anyways one or two series per year is my plan for now :)
Momentan baue ich gerade ebenfalls die Spitfire Mk VIII. Ein wirklich toller Bausatz, passgenau und mit superfeinen Details. Auch die exakten Gravuren sind gut gelungen, wohl die beste Spit in 1/72. Mein erster aber ganz sicher nicht mein letzter Kit von Eduard.
@@Juno58I agree as well, although Tamiya's engineering is on another level and sometimes the lack of detail in their kits represent how Japanese perceive sacle modeling in general.
Thanks for sharing! I've built a handful of models and picked up the Eduard spitfire, hopefully it doesn't prove to be too much of a challenge - it definitely has a lot more detail than the kits I've done!
Its a nice little kit but there are a lot of small parts with the PE set. I definitely can recommend dry fit tests so you can be sure what goes where and how exactly it happens :)
Great video as always. The quality of your videos are top notch already but take your time, don't get a burn-out. Looking forward to watching your videos monthly.
That's long and controversial topic, I personally prefer kits that are "perfect" and allow me to concentrate on things different than filing seams etc.
Wow, the best 72' i've ever seen. little shame that is not WX D (division 302) but it is just a detail, in general the build is perfect! Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic video!!!! please allow me a question , if you seal the results of the weathering pencil with a coat of matt or satin varnish would this erase them ?
It's really vague! Apparently the usual was the underside colour but there were also grey/green ones and aluminium silver ones. Seems to be one of those questions without a clear answer!
First of all super well done for this build and your building skills are excellent. Is it possible to tell me how you set the air compressor pressure to do those fine thin lines and what airbrush needle you used to do them?
Thanks Patrick, I use 0.2mm airbrush for the fine details. The pressure is very dependent on what paints you are using and Hou much you thin them. I usually start with 1 bar and then do adjustments until I find the sweet spot. Have in mind that depending on the size of your pressurised air vessel you will have a pressure drop when you push the trigger.
Hi Metodi, I love your marvelous work. I saw you cemented the canopy to the fuselage using Mr Cement S, didn't it cause fogging to the clear part of the canopy? Because some modellers suggest me not to use similar product such as Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Thank you.
Thanks mate, if you are careful with the amount of glue you will have no problems. PVA glue also works well, just takes more time to dry but it is harmless.
Amazing job!, your channel is a source of inspiration, thanks for sharing. Just wondering how do you do the white filter, what is the ratio you use? is it the same for highlights and chipping?
Im verry confused to what type of protection i need for my paintjob, i use AK and MIG ENAMEL washes and tamiya panel liner, what product can i use to protect it? Love your vids!
@@OrgrimmarOfficalVD I have never worked with this clear coat and I am not familiar with its properties. What I can suggest is to spray it paint a scrap piece of plastic as you did with your model and spray the clear coat over it. Leave it to dry for 24h and then abuse it with all the products and solvents you intend to use. This way you will figure out what it can handle and what it cannot. Hope that helps.
Awesome and beautiful work. Two questions. What thinner do you use for the Mr Hobby Aqueous paints? And what do you use to clean your airbrush after spraying Mr Surfacer?
Thanks Sebastian. The H series can be thinned with their dedicated thinner (Hobby color thinner), mr.leveling thinner (MLT), isopropyl alcohol and even water. I use all except water. For finer detail I use MLT and for broader surface coverage i use HCT or IPA. MLT works great for cleaning the airbrush from mr. surfacer. Hope that helps :)
regarding the 2 piece cowling in plastic, this may be why: Spitfire Mk. VIII top cowl 1/72 Cat.No.: 672155 which is, as you've guessed, a brassin addon eduard's selling...
@@MMScaleModels Mine is in storage, but looking at your build, the 1/72 seems to be almost identical. I do remember the exhaust pieces are multi part....another Eduard hint to get the Brassin!
@@MMScaleModels not. need a solvent number from the manufacturer. To understand what you diluted. I am not familiar with this varnish and wanted to understand how to dilute it for an airbrush.
Nice job. Try to keep the black streaks behind the machine gun openings light and subdued. The explosives used in this type of ammo had a very high yield and produced very very little residue. Hence, it took a very long time for the ammo to produce black streaks. At the end of the build you painted over the red patches....... Wrong. Those red patches are strips of red linen tape, placed over the holes to protect the guns. High up in the air it is very cold and condensation could turn into ice, jamming the gun. To prevent water vapour from entering the wing, a thick, strong red tape was placed over each hole. If a gun jammed, the maintenance crew could immediately see which one jammed. After servicing, all of the old tapes were removed and new ones were put back on. Therefor, the red tape ALWAYS looked clean, like new, because it was. So...apply these red decals LAST. AFTER painting the dark streaks. The red linen goes OVER the dark streaks, they were never covered in residue ! On your next model, when you paint the streaks, only paint about 20% of what you did on this model and you'll be fine ! ;-) Here are two great pages you must see (and translate, it's in Dutch) : tiethoff.nl/Pagina%2008%20bewapening/bewapening.html tiethoff.nl/Pagina%2016%20cockpit1/cockpit1.html (BTW... one more tip : I use Revell 310 Lufthansa yellow for the leading edge and propellor tips, the same color as the yellow ring of the roundels on the side)
@@MMScaleModels i have a 1/32 P-51 with partly bare metal finish, so would i just mask of the metallic paints, so that i can apply the matte coat over my normal paints?
@@konradalexander7561 I would do the opposite, painting the non metallic finish and then masking for the NMF. I personally avoid masking over NMF as much as possible.
Well if you want to weather the NMF you should clear coat it ... If you haven't watched it yet, I have a tutorial on Painting NMF, there you can see my approach.
Great skills but for me the weathering is a bit over the top. I love the way you did the undersides but the chipping and thick black streaks from the guns spoil it a bit.
Thanks Remo. Yes it is a matter of personal approach but also very subtle weathering often cannot be captured properly on camera so I have to take this into account.
Браво! Страхотен модел. Всичко хубаво но имам само един единствен въпрос. Как се справи с процепа на картечниците и тази "бабунка" под крилото, като слагаше декала? мен ми се взе акъла докато го направя и то трябваше да отрежа част от декала и после просто да го боядисам там където е нямало. Използвам Марк сетър и софтър нео. Не знам, кое не правя както трябва но, като го сложих отгоре дори не искаше да залепне от долната страна откъм това пъпче, стоеше във въздуха, колко ли не го мазах. Би ли дал съвет, че ме чака втори Мк8 и това много ме плаши!? :D
Мерси, супер лесно е с декалите, първо Марк сетер, слагаш декала, цял както си е, след това слагаш агама хиперсол върху декала. Изчакваш я да си свърши работата и със скалпела изрязваш дупката 😁👍
Please forgive my stupidity but I'm new to this I'm currently doing a very old Airfix Supermarine Spitfire model in 1/72 looking at your video your model you're doing is a lot bigger than mine am I missing something but I'm all scales meant to be the same
Couple of things here, first not all spitfires (or other aircraft) are the same. They are different MKs so they can vary on length, wingspan etc. However those are small differences. Kits also are not always dimensionaly accurate. Sometimes older kits are 1/87 instead of 1/72 which makes much bigger difference.
Truly magnificent. The modelling. The video. The whole package. A true artist.
Wow, thank you!
Following through to your gallery... You have done amazing job on this Spitfire, and you have built the Spitfire that my Grandfather flew in Italy in the war. I asked Eduard if they could include a Spitfire that he flew in one of their upcoming releases, and they happily agreed. You have really done the kit justice. I am sure that my grandfather would have been proud! Thank you so much!
Wow what a interesting thing this is. I am very happy that you like the model.
Super job and a great joy to watch your work......all aspects from the build, painting, weathering and commentary all come together to ensure that we, the viewers, have well spent the 27:32 minutes in awe of your fine details. Congrats for a beautifully completed model.
Thanks Robert, I am very happy to know that you find the video enjoying to watch!
Your a GENIUS model builder, I am starting again 2nd time around, first time 15, second time 51 years old. Just doing some research, if can be half as good as you i will be happy.
Thanks mate 🍻. Will be happy to help in your endeavour :)
Splendid job and attention to detail. Thank you.
Thanks 👍
Great build. You have great control over the airbrush and paintwork.
Thanks mate 👍
Amazing build , and in bloody 1/72 nd , WOW ! Hope you and your family are well ! Cheers, Tony
Thanks mate 👍, stay safe.
Wonderful looking Spitfire man! The chipping was quite impressive, I'll have to try that technique sometime. Great work!
Metodi, thank you for this video. It was a great help (watched several times like a good student). I just finished my Mk. IXc. Guessing you must be Bulgarian this malečki palečki will just say blagodarja.
Thanks mate, happy to help. Yes I am Bulgarian :)
I liked having the full build in one video. You can still release a more in-depth build series (of each stage) but I really enjoyed this. Great work!
Thanks mate. Yes its better for watching this way but for a simple kit I left out of the video so much stuff...anyways one or two series per year is my plan for now :)
Uma bela obra de arte! Obrigado por compartilhar conosco!
Momentan baue ich gerade ebenfalls die Spitfire Mk VIII. Ein wirklich toller Bausatz, passgenau und mit superfeinen Details. Auch die exakten Gravuren sind gut gelungen, wohl die beste Spit in 1/72. Mein erster aber ganz sicher nicht mein letzter Kit von Eduard.
Yes their kits are really good and also rather well priced, at least here in EU 😃
@@MMScaleModels Agree. Eduard is imho the best plastic model manufacturer of them all, better than Tamigawa or Hasemiya! :-)
@@Juno58I agree as well, although Tamiya's engineering is on another level and sometimes the lack of detail in their kits represent how Japanese perceive sacle modeling in general.
Thanks for sharing! I've built a handful of models and picked up the Eduard spitfire, hopefully it doesn't prove to be too much of a challenge - it definitely has a lot more detail than the kits I've done!
Its a nice little kit but there are a lot of small parts with the PE set. I definitely can recommend dry fit tests so you can be sure what goes where and how exactly it happens :)
Superb!!!!! You make it look easy which we all know that replicating this Spitfire certainly is a challenge.
Bravo!!!!👍
Agreed......the 1/48 is fiddly, and this looks exactly the same, just a lot smaller!
Great video as always. The quality of your videos are top notch already but take your time, don't get a burn-out. Looking forward to watching your videos monthly.
Thanks mate! Its more a family and work driven decision but burn-out is also a factor. Hope that UA-cam won't penalise😃 the channel
Wow that’s just great, this one probably the best so far, you do a great job in 1/72 I think you should do more in that scale :)
Thanks Alex, I like to build in all scales, other ways its quite monotonous :)
That's long and controversial topic, I personally prefer kits that are "perfect" and allow me to concentrate on things different than filing seams etc.
Thanks mate 👍
I learn a lot of your video's. Thank you. Your a master.
Thanks Han, very inspiring for me :)
Wow, the best 72' i've ever seen. little shame that is not WX D (division 302) but it is just a detail, in general the build is perfect! Thanks for sharing.
sorry, my bad. division 302 does not flying that model (mark VIII).
I am not that knowledgeable so i just put the decals that the kit has.
The Spitfire looks great, thanks for sharing with us!...Bill
Thanks for stopping by Bill 👍🍻
Awesome ¡¡ greetings from Chile ¡¡ 🇨🇱🇨🇱
Thanks mate, greetings from Bulgaria 🇧🇬
Lovely job.......you're a real artist! Love to see you do a black base tutorial sometime.
Thanks a bunch Paul! Yes that's a good Idea :)
Fantastic video!!!! please allow me a question , if you seal the results of the weathering pencil with a coat of matt or satin varnish would this erase them ?
Thanks, in my experience the varnish needs to be waterbased acrylic and then applied very carefully.
Excelente build and vídeo as usual!!
Thanks Alex 🍻
This guy could be a brain surgeon based on how well he applied them stickers.
Thanks mate 👍🍻
Your builds are amazing! Would love to see you try a SWEET 1/144 Hurricane... have you tried their kits before?
Thanks mate 👍! I haven't build 1/144 apart from airliners. I may give it a try with some visual aid 😁
@@MMScaleModels Yeah they're very well moulded. You can also get detailing kits for them which are almost microscopic 😂
A pleasure to watch you work metodi...great video..
Thanks Barrie 🍻
Hello! I like your build! I have question about color of wheel bays. Shouldn't they be painted in the interior green color?
I have followed the instructions, but such things vary from plane to plane... you know different makes, factories etc.
@@MMScaleModels You are right :)
It's really vague! Apparently the usual was the underside colour but there were also grey/green ones and aluminium silver ones. Seems to be one of those questions without a clear answer!
Excellent as usual
Thanks Bruno 🍻
why do you make black smoke on the red parts on the wings. are there the holes for the mashin guns?
Exactly, there are guns on the leading edges.
@@MMScaleModels and the long peaks on the front of the wings, are there Machine guns as well?
Muy buen modelo felicidades!!!
Thanks Pako 🍻
Cool enough! Thks!
Thanks mate 👍
Great work my friend.Look forward to the next one 🍻👍
Thanks mate, the next one will be a something never seen on this channel 😉🥃
First of all super well done for this build and your building skills are excellent.
Is it possible to tell me how you set the air compressor pressure to do those fine thin lines and what airbrush needle you used to do them?
Thanks Patrick, I use 0.2mm airbrush for the fine details. The pressure is very dependent on what paints you are using and Hou much you thin them. I usually start with 1 bar and then do adjustments until I find the sweet spot. Have in mind that depending on the size of your pressurised air vessel you will have a pressure drop when you push the trigger.
A super work...as usual! I wonder how man psi you use when you paint only 5 mm from the surface. Thanks for inspiration !
Thanks, about 1 bar with 0.2mm nozzle.
Hi Metodi, I love your marvelous work. I saw you cemented the canopy to the fuselage using Mr Cement S, didn't it cause fogging to the clear part of the canopy? Because some modellers suggest me not to use similar product such as Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Thank you.
Thanks mate, if you are careful with the amount of glue you will have no problems. PVA glue also works well, just takes more time to dry but it is harmless.
@@MMScaleModels Aaaaa I see. I'll take the PVA glue instead, as you said, it's harmless. Thank you for your answer, Metodi. I really appreciate it.
Inspired and very impressive work!!
It appears to me that you applied the thin black wing walkway stripes over the roundels. It should be the other way round.
Thats possible, i am not aware of the sequence.
Amazing job!, your channel is a source of inspiration, thanks for sharing. Just wondering how do you do the white filter, what is the ratio you use? is it the same for highlights and chipping?
Thanks Jose, its about 5-10% paint to 90-95% paint. Some experimentation is needed cause not all paints and thinners are equal.
Good work. Thank you
Thank you too!
Magnificent job, this is very inspired!
Thanks mate 👍
Gracias por los subtitulados
Welcome 👍🍻
Im verry confused to what type of protection i need for my paintjob, i use AK and MIG ENAMEL washes and tamiya panel liner, what product can i use to protect it?
Love your vids!
Thanks, I personally use GX112 from Gunze. Its lacquer based and is quite tough.
@@MMScaleModels i found a bottle of alclad 2 aqua gloss clear Will that work?
@@OrgrimmarOfficalVD I have never worked with this clear coat and I am not familiar with its properties. What I can suggest is to spray it paint a scrap piece of plastic as you did with your model and spray the clear coat over it. Leave it to dry for 24h and then abuse it with all the products and solvents you intend to use. This way you will figure out what it can handle and what it cannot. Hope that helps.
what was the blues music and who was the artist?
Awesome and beautiful work. Two questions. What thinner do you use for the Mr Hobby Aqueous paints? And
what do you use to clean your airbrush after spraying Mr Surfacer?
Thanks Sebastian. The H series can be thinned with their dedicated thinner (Hobby color thinner), mr.leveling thinner (MLT), isopropyl alcohol and even water. I use all except water. For finer detail I use MLT and for broader surface coverage i use HCT or IPA. MLT works great for cleaning the airbrush from mr. surfacer. Hope that helps :)
@@MMScaleModelsThanks for the super prompt reply!!! I love your technique.
You are welcome 🍻
NICE JOB DADDY'O 👍👍👍WITH REGARDS FAE SCOTLAND, GORAIDH MAC A CHRUITEIR
Thanks mate 👍🍻
regarding the 2 piece cowling in plastic, this may be why: Spitfire Mk. VIII top cowl 1/72
Cat.No.: 672155 which is, as you've guessed, a brassin addon eduard's selling...
That's a cheap move if really that was the intension.
Same as 1/48..........but at least that's a bit bigger to sand!
That's what I was wandering, how much different the 1/48th scale kit is? And how much more details it has?
@@MMScaleModels Mine is in storage, but looking at your build, the 1/72 seems to be almost identical. I do remember the exhaust pieces are multi part....another Eduard hint to get the Brassin!
Maybe look on Eduard site at the 1/48 instructions....
Respect from Belarus!!!
Thanks mate 👍
Can i thin the mr color varnishes with x20a?
I have never used that thinner. I think it's for acrylics only.
It's...amazing...
Thanks mate 🍻👍
Than do you dilute this glossy varnish?
Yes, 1 part varnish - 2 parts MLT
@@MMScaleModels Can I have an article or photo?
What do you mean, you want to see the mixing process?
@@MMScaleModels not. need a solvent number from the manufacturer. To understand what you diluted. I am not familiar with this varnish and wanted to understand how to dilute it for an airbrush.
Aha, the thinner is Mr. Leveling Thinner
Nice job.
Try to keep the black streaks behind the machine gun openings light and subdued. The explosives used in this type of ammo had a very high yield and produced very very little residue. Hence, it took a very long time for the ammo to produce black streaks. At the end of the build you painted over the red patches....... Wrong. Those red patches are strips of red linen tape, placed over the holes to protect the guns.
High up in the air it is very cold and condensation could turn into ice, jamming the gun. To prevent water vapour from entering the wing, a thick, strong red tape was placed over each hole.
If a gun jammed, the maintenance crew could immediately see which one jammed. After servicing, all of the old tapes were removed and new ones were put back on.
Therefor, the red tape ALWAYS looked clean, like new, because it was. So...apply these red decals LAST. AFTER painting the dark streaks. The red linen goes OVER the dark streaks, they were never covered in residue !
On your next model, when you paint the streaks, only paint about 20% of what you did on this model and you'll be fine ! ;-)
Here are two great pages you must see (and translate, it's in Dutch) :
tiethoff.nl/Pagina%2008%20bewapening/bewapening.html
tiethoff.nl/Pagina%2016%20cockpit1/cockpit1.html
(BTW... one more tip : I use Revell 310 Lufthansa yellow for the leading edge and propellor tips, the same color as the yellow ring of the roundels on the side)
That's interesting info! Thanks
Is airbrushing matt over metals ok?
That depends on the finish you are after. For this application it is perfectly fine.
@@MMScaleModels i have a 1/32 P-51 with partly bare metal finish, so would i just mask of the metallic paints, so that i can apply the matte coat over my normal paints?
@@konradalexander7561 I would do the opposite, painting the non metallic finish and then masking for the NMF. I personally avoid masking over NMF as much as possible.
@@MMScaleModels so if i wanted to do weathering with oils i need to do it beforhand?
Well if you want to weather the NMF you should clear coat it ... If you haven't watched it yet, I have a tutorial on Painting NMF, there you can see my approach.
nice jobs !!
Thanks Ludovic 🍻
Awesome modelling skills 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
What thinning ratio for mr surfacer?
Thank you
Shayne
Thanks Shayne, I use 1:1 ratio but that will depend on your nozzle and other things.
Thank you Metodi,
You are the man 👊👊👊👊
Welcome
Great skills but for me the weathering is a bit over the top. I love the way you did the undersides but the chipping and thick black streaks from the guns spoil it a bit.
Thanks mate, I guess that weathering is individual thing.
very good! but I found it overdone a lot in weathering. but I know it's a matter of taste. I'd rather do it moderately.
Thanks Remo. Yes it is a matter of personal approach but also very subtle weathering often cannot be captured properly on camera so I have to take this into account.
Браво! Страхотен модел. Всичко хубаво но имам само един единствен въпрос.
Как се справи с процепа на картечниците и тази "бабунка" под крилото, като слагаше декала? мен ми се взе акъла докато го направя и то трябваше да отрежа част от декала и после просто да го боядисам там където е нямало. Използвам Марк сетър и софтър нео. Не знам, кое не правя както трябва но, като го сложих отгоре дори не искаше да залепне от долната страна откъм това пъпче, стоеше във въздуха, колко ли не го мазах. Би ли дал съвет, че ме чака втори Мк8 и това много ме плаши!? :D
Мерси, супер лесно е с декалите, първо Марк сетер, слагаш декала, цял както си е, след това слагаш агама хиперсол върху декала. Изчакваш я да си свърши работата и със скалпела изрязваш дупката 😁👍
@@MMScaleModels Благодаря! Май ще си взема хиперсол! 😁😁
Откъде си си взел хиперсол? Навремето го имаше в Нирахоби, но моят отдавна го свърших и там не зареждат Агама повече.
От JadarHobby си го поръчвах, но гледам, че сега няма. Можеш да ги питаш дали ще имат за в бъдеще.
🙋👏👍👌!!!....
👍
Please forgive my stupidity but I'm new to this I'm currently doing a very old Airfix Supermarine Spitfire model in 1/72 looking at your video your model you're doing is a lot bigger than mine am I missing something but I'm all scales meant to be the same
Couple of things here, first not all spitfires (or other aircraft) are the same. They are different MKs so they can vary on length, wingspan etc. However those are small differences. Kits also are not always dimensionaly accurate. Sometimes older kits are 1/87 instead of 1/72 which makes much bigger difference.
Chuck Norris can pack and leave!
😄
Nice modelling. Weathering a tad overdone (in my opinion).
Afrika
Acceptable but noticeable flaws and mistakes.
It has some flaws indeed.