2006 Chrysler T&C w/ 174k miles. The work these guys did eleven years ago for us shadetree mechanics remains a big help for me today (Nov 2024) as I prepare to change out the water pump on this vehicle. Noticed the loss of fluid in the coolant reservoir during my last periodic engine fluid check. Drove the vehicle up on ramps and took a look underneath and quickly found the tell-tale drip off the bottom of the water pump pulley. Also noted significant rust and corrosion on the metal coolant inlet tube to the water pump as routed to the bottom of the water pump housing from the lower radiator hose. Possible cause is a slow, sustained water pump coolant leak and/or O-ring seal failure at the water pump inlet tube where it mates to the water pump. It's hard to tell before disassembly. Given the greater more recent loss of of coolant, the leak has certainly got worse, so away we go for parts. Since I need to drain the coolant anyway, I'll not only get a new MOPAR or GATES water pump, but also get a new serpentine belt, thermostat and hoses. I'll also look into a new idler pulley and tensioner. I'm also going to see if I can replace that lower metal coolant line. Looks easy to do, so am hoping that part is available w/ new O-ring seal. Replacement of the O-ring seal by itself might be sufficient if the metal tube proves hard to get. Also, a new radiator cap to replace the 18 year old original one is cheap insurance. Lastly, a special THANK-YOU for showing us the "how to" and also mentioning the special RTV water pump gasket sealant to enhance the water pump seal.
I just did mine today. It is a reaaaalllllyyy tight fit to remove and replace the water pump. And believe me i spent a good 20 minutes wiggling and rotating the water pump to get it out damaging the fins while i removed it. For installing the new one, and to avoid damage to the new pump, I just took my dremel and shaved off 1/4" of the chassis. It made things sooo much easier. Also before you put everything back together, please don't forget to turn the car on and check to make sure you don't have any leaks. Last thing you want to do is put everything back together only to find out that its leaking and you have to remove everything again.
Great video. Helped a lot. Liked the tools need part. My water pump luckily fell out as j was twisting to remove. I thought it was going to be very difficult to install the new one. You have to watch the impeller's position as you install. If you do it will simply slide in. No engine lowering needed.
Ours wouldn't just fall out and I know some people have mentioned having to lower the engine. Some of the differences may have to do with different engine configurations. Glad yours came out easy. -Greg
I had the Same Problem with Removing the Water pump not enough room, I used a crow bar on side of the engine block then lifted the crow bar with a jack...worked perfectly gave me the Good enough amount of room to pull out and install the pump..
I replace my water pump yesterday. Thank you for the Video. I can see why some people had to take some extream measures to either remove or replace the pump. I was lucky and the pump came out fairly quickly. I deduced that if it came out I could get it back in. It will go back in with little to no force. You just have to find the perfect comination of twists, turns and angle. This took me some time, (atleast 45 min) but it is possable.
Excellent instructional video. You guys are pros! The trick about listening the drive pulley to assist in getting the water pump of and on, the handling of the serpentine belt ... all good tips and the video too!
We were able to remove it by applying a small amount of pressure to remove it. If you do this make sure you don't apply any pressure to the shaft. The engine mounts are what hold the engine in place. You could probably remove one and raise or drop the engine as necessary to remove the water pump. This wasn't necessary in our case.
Seems like everyone is having trouble removing it once all the bolts are out. I had trouble for a couple mins. Then realized you just sandwhich the pulley and water pump together as much as you can. Like let the pulley slide through the pulley mounting bracket that spins and push it against the water pump. Wiggles out in seconds with no pry bars or extra work. I didn’t lower the engine or do anything. Just gotta be patient and wiggle it around just right while holding the pulley and water pump together to keep it as thin as possible
Great video, I to had to lower the engine as well get the pump in (It came out on pieces). I didn't have access to a serpentine adjustment tool however, a pipe wrench worked just as good.
All went well until trying to get water pump out of the impeller housing. (3.8 eng.) there is just not enough room/ clearance between the frame rail and the water pump to remove the pump. Simple solution is to support the engine via the oil pan with a suitable jack and block of wood. then remove the 3 engine support bolts on the left side of the engine . then lower the engine approx. 1 inch . This provided the necessary clearance to remove and to install the water pump. One of the water pump bolts is very difficult to get to . it is important to use the 1/4 " drive ratchet and 10 mm shallow socket. this makes all the difference to access this bolt ... Thanks for the video gentleman !
other videos were telling me to drop the engine 1-2'' to get to the back bolts on the water pump. this made i look alot easier for a do it yourself er thanks for the good content :)
I replaced mine with the car on the ground, just turn the wheel hard to the right, remove the covers, pulley bolts, belt, pump bolts, and wiggle it out of there. Take some time but it works without lowering the engine took me about 2 hours at best.
I just did this job and for me it was impossible to get the pump back in without lowering the engine about 3/4 inch. I supported the engine with a floor jack with a 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan (to prevent damage to the pan). Then, after removing the air intake hose and loosening the three front engine mount bolts, the front of engine moved down enough where the pump was easily inserted. To drain the fluid, I used a big plastic storage bin and pulled the lower hose.
don't u love how they make it look so easy this was hell the pulley was jam the only way your get this pulley off is to shife the motor over, no so simple
One thing to add. This MY2006 uses G05/HOAT coolant (yellow), be warned if you MIX coolant it will gel and clog everything and you will be doing this again. Just replaced all the cooling components on step sons T&C as he inadvertently added OAT with HOAT already in the system and in about a month overheating and everything clogged. To use the 'old' style green coolant you will need to drain/flush all the factory style coolant out, been there done that $$$.
We didn't but if your vehicle isn't cooling right then you might try that. We just filled it up with a 50/50 blend and after running it for a few minutes added more if it was needed.
@5:11 "You have to move the pulley around some to get the water pump out slide it out of place" Yea right! Funny how you skipped the hours of you moving it around! 😒. Had to lower the engine like everyone else
Not hours and we were able to get it out. We don't play games because we want to help. That being said most people have had to lower the engine. It may depend on engine size. I believe the one we worked on was a 3.3. -Greg
UP DATE....What I did was let the engine down at the top motor mount....The Pump fell out, lots easier to clean the surface, and to re- install....Bam.............
I've loosened the 3 pully bolts removed the 5, 10mm bolts from the pump. But I'm having a heck of a time trying to remove the pump/pully ... any suggestions? It' seems like there's not enough clearance from the frame.
Bobby Paragon We had just enough room where we could get it out. If it just needs a little bit of force you might be able to apply a little pressure to get it out. Another option might be to lower the motor. -Greg
Greg Cook Greg ... I lowered the motor as you suggested and it worked perfectly! I also put the vehicle up on ramps, to give me more room, standard jack with an 8" by 8" block worked fine for lowering the motor. The video helped a lot! A class act, had all the tools lined up as suggested.
Great video with step by step instructions BUT i had to lower engine to get the pump out of its place, there wasn't enough space between pulley/pump & body to get it out other than that everything worked out fine. Thanks
+Oleg pokotilov Thanks for the feedback.. Ours was a very tight fit. I wish we would of dropped our enigne a little because I think that would of helped more people. Thanks Greg
Oleg Pokotilov Yeah, there was just no wiggle room. We broke the plastic blades on the inside of the pump getting it out. My brother just yanked on it with a crowbar. We didn't need the old one. :) I saw how in the video the guys had to push a little to get it in. Also, the pulley had to be out of the way. I rotated and fiddled and jiggled, then eventually decided to just give a little shove. I was worried about breaking the blades on the new water pump. It popped in, and no damage to the water pump. Tight squeeze. Same problem with the frame being in the way. Only by about 1/2 inch. I am not a mechanic, but lowering an engine to make room? Genius! Again, thanks for the video. Like I said, I am not a mechanic, (I'm a chef) but now I have an '06 Chrysler water pump under my belt!
Sounds scary. Glad it worked for you but I can't recommend using the jack to lift the crow bar against the engine block.. Sounds like several things could of gone wrong. Maybe not but I am having a hard time picturing it in my head. Again I am glad you got it fixed..
A pipe wrench? What did you fasten it to? It's always best to use a tool designed for the job but in a pinch you have to use what you have to use. Glad it all worked out for you.. Greg
I can't seem to get my water pump OUT of the hole. It's like it's too large to fit in the space. Is there a way to pry it somehow? Some posts say to release the engine mounts but I'm not sure where that is.
I have two boats break off in mine today the top and the bottom I'm working on the last one but I'm afraid it's going to break what can I do to get the other ones out that broke
I would recommend looking up a few videos on removing broken bolts. You will probably have to drill and tap them out. I would also soak what you can in a penetrating oil. - Greg
Yep, that's what I had to do - I dropped the engine and put the floor jack underneath it with a 2x4 as recommended in a dodge forum. I jacked up the floor jack until it was on the oil pan and then took out the engine mounts. I had my buddy SLOWLY drop the jack while I was wiggling it out. Now I need to remove the power steering pump - ugh.
I am not sure if it would be exactly the same or not. My guess is they would be very similar with hopefully a little more room with the 3.3 version. It was really tight getting the water pump in and out with the 3.8. Please let us know how it goes. -Greg
I believe the neck required a small amount of force to get it out. If you have to apply quite a bit stop and rethink what your doing. You can also lower the engine if needed. Thanks Greg
@@GregorysGarage Lets try this again, WHY? I worked under the hoods of cars for 40 years and never disconnected the battery unless I was working on the electrical system and no always then. Retired master ASE tech....
beware !! this is not a so simple job, the pulley will not come off unless you remove motor mounts and shift the motor over to pull off the pulley good luck!! 2006 town country base model.
I think if you going to make a video like this its probably best to put the engine type, configuration, and displacement in the title as well as the audio description... Not sure about the Town and Country but many vehicles come with different engine options so just naming the model of car seems to be a poor way to name your video's.
rainmechanic You're exactly right. From what I know the Town and Country had two engine options for that year. The video should still be helpful but I agree there are differences though. Thanks Greg
Greg Cook Oh its definitely helpful and well demonstrated visually... I just think your descriptions should be more specific because of the engine option variables..
2006 Chrysler T&C w/ 174k miles. The work these guys did eleven years ago for us shadetree mechanics remains a big help for me today (Nov 2024) as I prepare to change out the water pump on this vehicle. Noticed the loss of fluid in the coolant reservoir during my last periodic engine fluid check. Drove the vehicle up on ramps and took a look underneath and quickly found the tell-tale drip off the bottom of the water pump pulley. Also noted significant rust and corrosion on the metal coolant inlet tube to the water pump as routed to the bottom of the water pump housing from the lower radiator hose. Possible cause is a slow, sustained water pump coolant leak and/or O-ring seal failure at the water pump inlet tube where it mates to the water pump. It's hard to tell before disassembly. Given the greater more recent loss of of coolant, the leak has certainly got worse, so away we go for parts. Since I need to drain the coolant anyway, I'll not only get a new MOPAR or GATES water pump, but also get a new serpentine belt, thermostat and hoses. I'll also look into a new idler pulley and tensioner. I'm also going to see if I can replace that lower metal coolant line. Looks easy to do, so am hoping that part is available w/ new O-ring seal. Replacement of the O-ring seal by itself might be sufficient if the metal tube proves hard to get. Also, a new radiator cap to replace the 18 year old original one is cheap insurance. Lastly, a special THANK-YOU for showing us the "how to" and also mentioning the special RTV water pump gasket sealant to enhance the water pump seal.
I am glad we could help. -Greg
Thanks guys ! Needed even today 11 years later.. A very well done Video !!!!!
I just did mine today. It is a reaaaalllllyyy tight fit to remove and replace the water pump. And believe me i spent a good 20 minutes wiggling and rotating the water pump to get it out damaging the fins while i removed it. For installing the new one, and to avoid damage to the new pump, I just took my dremel and shaved off 1/4" of the chassis. It made things sooo much easier. Also before you put everything back together, please don't forget to turn the car on and check to make sure you don't have any leaks. Last thing you want to do is put everything back together only to find out that its leaking and you have to remove everything again.
Thank you for the tips.. I am sure they will help others who watch this video.
Greg
Seven years later, thank you for this!
Great video. Helped a lot. Liked the tools need part. My water pump luckily fell out as j was twisting to remove. I thought it was going to be very difficult to install the new one. You have to watch the impeller's position as you install. If you do it will simply slide in. No engine lowering needed.
Ours wouldn't just fall out and I know some people have mentioned having to lower the engine. Some of the differences may have to do with different engine configurations. Glad yours came out easy. -Greg
I had the Same Problem with Removing the Water pump not enough room, I used a crow bar on side of the engine block then lifted the crow bar with a jack...worked perfectly gave me the Good enough amount of room to pull out and install the pump..
I replace my water pump yesterday. Thank you for the Video. I can see why some people had to take some extream measures to either remove or replace the pump. I was lucky and the pump came out fairly quickly. I deduced that if it came out I could get it back in. It will go back in with little to no force. You just have to find the perfect comination of twists, turns and angle. This took me some time, (atleast 45 min) but it is possable.
You're welcome and thanks for the comment.
Greg
Mystic Savant wiggled and jiggled and fiddled and then pushed. yeah, about forty-five minutes of that...
What was the year of your car and was it the 3.3 or 3.8L?
How can I get the water pump ?
Thank you for. Sharing this. With me. It's. A. Great. Help to me😅 have a blessed day
Thank you that was so good. I was concerned about changing it out now I know I can do it.
A good 10mm racket wrench helps with the back bolt …
Thanks for the advice - Greg
Thank you
Thank you and respect for sharing this. God bless people who help others. You save me lots of time SIR. RESPECT!
Glad we could help. -Greg
Excellent instructional video. You guys are pros! The trick about listening the drive pulley to assist in getting the water pump of and on, the handling of the serpentine belt ... all good tips and the video too!
Bob Parazin Thank you... -Greg
We were able to remove it by applying a small amount of pressure to remove it. If you do this make sure you don't apply any pressure to the shaft. The engine mounts are what hold the engine in place. You could probably remove one and raise or drop the engine as necessary to remove the water pump. This wasn't necessary in our case.
Seems like everyone is having trouble removing it once all the bolts are out. I had trouble for a couple mins. Then realized you just sandwhich the pulley and water pump together as much as you can. Like let the pulley slide through the pulley mounting bracket that spins and push it against the water pump. Wiggles out in seconds with no pry bars or extra work. I didn’t lower the engine or do anything. Just gotta be patient and wiggle it around just right while holding the pulley and water pump together to keep it as thin as possible
Thanks for the video, mine isn't weeping but making a low growling noise, hope I don't run into clearance issues
Great video, I to had to lower the engine as well get the pump in (It came out on pieces). I didn't have access to a serpentine adjustment tool however, a pipe wrench worked just as good.
All went well until trying to get water pump out of the impeller housing. (3.8 eng.) there is just not enough room/ clearance between the frame rail and the water pump to remove the pump. Simple solution is to support the engine via the oil pan with a suitable jack and block of wood. then remove the 3 engine support bolts on the left side of the engine . then lower the engine approx. 1 inch . This provided the necessary clearance to remove and to install the water pump. One of the water pump bolts is very difficult to get to . it is important to use the 1/4 " drive ratchet and 10 mm shallow socket. this makes all the difference to access this bolt ... Thanks for the video gentleman !
Thank you for your suggestions. I would be very careful when supporting the engine by the oil pan.
-Greg
other videos were telling me to drop the engine 1-2'' to get to the back bolts on the water pump. this made i look alot easier for a do it yourself er thanks for the good content :)
I have heard others having to drop the motor but this is how we were able to do it ourselves..
-Greg
😂😂😂 You Skipped the Struggle getting the pump back in and lined up!
I replaced mine with the car on the ground, just turn the wheel hard to the right, remove the covers, pulley bolts, belt, pump bolts, and wiggle it out of there. Take some time but it works without lowering the engine took me about 2 hours at best.
what car did you have because i can't get the dam pulley off my 2006 town country
@@stupidvids777 Grand Caravan you remove the bolts then remove as pictured with little rotation
I just did this job and for me it was impossible to get the pump back in without lowering the engine about 3/4 inch. I supported the engine with a floor jack with a 2x4 between the jack and the oil pan (to prevent damage to the pan). Then, after removing the air intake hose and loosening the three front engine mount bolts, the front of engine moved down enough where the pump was easily inserted. To drain the fluid, I used a big plastic storage bin and pulled the lower hose.
Thanks for the comments. Hopefully this will help someone else. BTW what size engine does yours have?
-Greg
Greg Cook Mine is a 3.3 Litre
Gary V I'm thinking about to do the same to take it out and leave it in that position on put it back because I really can't get it out
don't u love how they make it look so easy this was hell the pulley was jam the only way your get this pulley off is to shife the motor over, no so simple
Excelente trabajo
One thing to add. This MY2006 uses G05/HOAT coolant (yellow), be warned if you MIX coolant it will gel and clog everything and you will be doing this again. Just replaced all the cooling components on step sons T&C as he inadvertently added OAT with HOAT already in the system and in about a month overheating and everything clogged. To use the 'old' style green coolant you will need to drain/flush all the factory style coolant out, been there done that $$$.
Thank you for your comment - Greg
We didn't but if your vehicle isn't cooling right then you might try that. We just filled it up with a 50/50 blend and after running it for a few minutes added more if it was needed.
Thank you for the advice. Good luck with the power steering pump.
@5:11 "You have to move the pulley around some to get the water pump out slide it out of place" Yea right! Funny how you skipped the hours of you moving it around! 😒. Had to lower the engine like everyone else
Not hours and we were able to get it out. We don't play games because we want to help. That being said most people have had to lower the engine. It may depend on engine size. I believe the one we worked on was a 3.3. -Greg
it would be nice if the video was honest about this nightmare job but no they like to make it sound like a 5 min fix suree
UP DATE....What I did was let the engine down at the top motor mount....The Pump fell out, lots easier to clean the surface, and to re- install....Bam.............
Thank you for getting us know your trick. -Greg
Just did mine removed front bolt on support lifted with bottle jack finally came out
Great video
I've loosened the 3 pully bolts removed the 5, 10mm bolts from the pump. But I'm having a heck of a time trying to remove the pump/pully ... any suggestions? It' seems like there's not enough clearance from the frame.
Bobby Paragon We had just enough room where we could get it out. If it just needs a little bit of force you might be able to apply a little pressure to get it out. Another option might be to lower the motor. -Greg
Greg Cook Greg ... I lowered the motor as you suggested and it worked perfectly! I also put the vehicle up on ramps, to give me more room, standard jack with an 8" by 8" block worked fine for lowering the motor. The video helped a lot! A class act, had all the tools lined up as suggested.
Bobby Paragon Awesome.. Glad we could help. -Greg
Great video with step by step instructions BUT i had to lower engine to get the pump out of its place, there wasn't enough space between pulley/pump & body to get it out other than that everything worked out fine. Thanks
+Oleg pokotilov Thanks for the feedback.. Ours was a very tight fit. I wish we would of dropped our enigne a little because I think that would of helped more people. Thanks Greg
Thank you for the video and help. Just used this tonight.
Oleg Pokotilov Yeah, there was just no wiggle room. We broke the plastic blades on the inside of the pump getting it out. My brother just yanked on it with a crowbar. We didn't need the old one. :) I saw how in the video the guys had to push a little to get it in. Also, the pulley had to be out of the way. I rotated and fiddled and jiggled, then eventually decided to just give a little shove. I was worried about breaking the blades on the new water pump. It popped in, and no damage to the water pump. Tight squeeze. Same problem with the frame being in the way. Only by about 1/2 inch. I am not a mechanic, but lowering an engine to make room? Genius! Again, thanks for the video. Like I said, I am not a mechanic, (I'm a chef) but now I have an '06 Chrysler water pump under my belt!
Also, it looked like the blades on theirs were metal?
Sounds scary. Glad it worked for you but I can't recommend using the jack to lift the crow bar against the engine block.. Sounds like several things could of gone wrong. Maybe not but I am having a hard time picturing it in my head. Again I am glad you got it fixed..
A pipe wrench? What did you fasten it to? It's always best to use a tool designed for the job but in a pinch you have to use what you have to use. Glad it all worked out for you..
Greg
Some time You can use pry bar between frame and engine to give you enough room to remove pully separately
I can't seem to get my water pump OUT of the hole. It's like it's too large to fit in the space. Is there a way to pry it somehow? Some posts say to release the engine mounts but I'm not sure where that is.
Thanks for the video. Do you have to bleed any air out of the cooling system after this job?
I have two boats break off in mine today the top and the bottom I'm working on the last one but I'm afraid it's going to break what can I do to get the other ones out that broke
I would recommend looking up a few videos on removing broken bolts. You will probably have to drill and tap them out. I would also soak what you can in a penetrating oil. - Greg
Yep, that's what I had to do - I dropped the engine and put the floor jack underneath it with a 2x4 as recommended in a dodge forum. I jacked up the floor jack until it was on the oil pan and then took out the engine mounts. I had my buddy SLOWLY drop the jack while I was wiggling it out.
Now I need to remove the power steering pump - ugh.
Is this engine the 3.3 or 3.8 liter, or is the replacement of the water pump the same on both engines?
I am not sure if it would be exactly the same or not. My guess is they would be very similar with hopefully a little more room with the 3.3 version. It was really tight getting the water pump in and out with the 3.8. Please let us know how it goes.
-Greg
Greg Cook Job went exactly how video showed it. Thanks for posting.
You say you had to apply a small amount of pressure to remove it.
Do you remember where or how?
I believe the neck required a small amount of force to get it out. If you have to apply quite a bit stop and rethink what your doing. You can also lower the engine if needed.
Thanks
Greg
Como puedo en contrar el sensor de tenperatura de una ben toncontri 2005
Why disconnect the battery?
It's a good idea to disconnect the battery when working under the hood of a car. -Greg
@@GregorysGarage Lets try this again, WHY? I worked under the hoods of cars for 40 years and never disconnected the battery unless I was working on the electrical system and no always then. Retired master ASE tech....
I think you can see how to make it on Avasva . This is just an advice ;)
someone had the wrong antifreeze in there to begin with, its bast to use a HOAT antifreeze which is red in color
beware !! this is not a so simple job, the pulley will not come off unless you remove motor mounts and shift the motor over to pull off the pulley good luck!!
2006 town country base model.
21 ft lbs!!!!!!!!!!!! OMG NOT EVEN CLOSE!!! try 9 on the high side... unless you enjoy stripped threads and broken bolts!! RUN! from advice like this
I think if you going to make a video like this its probably best to put the engine type, configuration, and displacement in the title as well as the audio description... Not sure about the Town and Country but many vehicles come with different engine options so just naming the model of car seems to be a poor way to name your video's.
rainmechanic You're exactly right. From what I know the Town and Country had two engine options for that year. The video should still be helpful but I agree there are differences though.
Thanks
Greg
Greg Cook Oh its definitely helpful and well demonstrated visually... I just think your descriptions should be more specific because of the engine option variables..