Thanks so much for the video. It is clear and well explained. I bought the same suite before I even watched your video. Some great advice! Thank you Moussa!👍
Love your work, mate! Good to see how to install the S trap system. I have couple questions regarding of removing the existing system, mine is also the S trap, and how can you tell if it is cemented or they are always? I can see my bowel hAs four screws on the bottom and white silicon seal on the edge
Thank you! First of all, if you see silicone, then there is a high chance that it will not be cemented down. If you use a utility knife and cut the silicone, which should release the bowl! But if you can visually see screws then undo them first! I would be very surprised if someone cement, screwed and siliconed a toilet bowl down! Please let me know how you go!
Very well explained. I've recently replaced my cistern with the Uniset II, can you confirm if this flush system only works when you hold down the button until you let go?
@@quantumhomeimprovements Thanks for the quick response, for me both seems to require holding down, hmm! I wonder if something is wrong with my flush then.
The half flush will need to be held down for a second or so but yes, if you continue holding it down, the cistern will empty, which you won't need when flushing urine down. But if a second is not sufficient enough then you may need to check with the manufacturer. I hope this helps, Moussa
Hi.... great video. I'm wondering if you can tell me why my older coroma flush buttons have to be held down to continue flushing. If I let go the flush stops. Thanks
Thank you! It also happens even with newer toilets I have noticed. However, depending on the brand & type of cistern you have, it could be adjusted, but you will need to look it up. It's usually due to the seal not opening fully to allow the water to escape easily! Sometimes, it can be a very easy adjustment.
Im about to install a new toilet in my overhauled bathroom. On the Carona box ,it still says install with cement under the toilet . Surety without this cement the toilet base will lack strength? I can't see silicon being a long term answer.
Hey Noel, it will also say to place screws through the floor into your waterproofing! This is a big mistake as far as the waterproofing professionals are concerned! Cement base toilets Do Not hold the bowl, any pressure will break the bond and will losen the toilet! Do what ever you feel is right for you but I do not know any plumbers who will use Cement these days! I personally have used a high quality Silicone to fix the toilets for 20 years now and not one has lost its strength. However, you need to know how to apply Silicone and neutral curing is highly recommended. P.S. I have both a waterproofing technicians licence and a bathroom kitchen & laundry renovation licence! Plus Carpentary. Look up Moussa Seecy in the Fairtrading website to see my history.
No, I have a waterproofing technicians licence, and I do not like to damage waterproofed wet areas. Silicone is all I used, which has been common practice for plumbers now for many years. I will be making a video sometime next year explaining this in much more detail. Cheers
Hi I'm looking for the part where u drill the holes into the tiles and screw the toilet into the tiles but I can't find thst bit on Ur video. I noticed mine didn't come with the screws for this bit. Is that normal? Also, when I do a full flush, the cistine only half empties. Is it supposed to do that? Thank you so much in advance for any help
I mean where u screw the toilet into the tiles in the floor. And again, I didn't see in the box thst it came with these screw and I'm wondering if this is normal
You are welcome & yes, the manufacturers usually suggest to screw the toilet down. However, I my life time I have never seen this practiced! I the old days people would only cement the bowl down. But now I only see people using silicone to hold the toilet down! I personally don't like drilling through the floor tiles because I am a waterproof technician and don't like to compromise on the integrity of the membrane! In regards to the level of water, it should flush all the way down. Could I ask if you installed the same toilet?
👍 I am just double checking with Xiaoming if the toilet cistern empties completely after we place the plastic reducer! However, he is visiting his sick mother overseas at the moment, but I will confirm it hopefully soon!
Good question, Daniel! The pan collar needs to be low to the ground for the toilet to sit over it correctly. The main reason we changed it was due to it being so far off centre. So I changed the pan collar to an offset collar to try and get it closer to the middle of the room as possible as I showed on the video. However, generally speaking, you will not need to change it again. But if you do need to replace it then you can get a good idea from what I showed on video, hopefully!
Caroma Toilets are like Nokia of the Toilet world. We had one and is still ticking at our old farmhouse. The house is 105 years old and the toilet is around 70 years old. The house is good old Australian Oregan timber and local hardwood as post for the house.
Shouldn't you screw the pan to the floor and not rely only on just the silicon joint? That's what I'm reading in the Caroma instructions for the Wall Faced toilet that I am installing. Thanks for the video. Its quite good otherwise.
Hey Fsharp, you are welcome. Just confirming that I have a Carpenters, Renovator & water proofing licence and have installed a lot of toilets over the years in my bathroom renovations business. I have to say, without any reservations, that would never, ever drill a hole in the floor even though the manufacturer recommended it. And I have known many plumbers over the years, relatives & good friends and they would do the same as me. There are reasons why the manufacturer has suggested this and I would differentiately challenge then is its tge only method that they recommend. Place silicone at the base of the pan has become the industry standard and I truly believe it's a far better technique than drilling through potential water proofing membrane! I hope my reply sheds more light onto the subject!
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the pan won't move at all with a high quality silicone and if you need to remove the toilet at a later date for maintenance, it's easy to cut the silicone using a Stanley knife and then re-silicone the pan back after you finish it.
Hey Daiel, good observation! During the editing of this video, I found the full sequence was too long, but in reality, I did place silicone as far back around the bowl as far as I could. If you can draw the screen bigger, you might be able to see it as I finished off the other side! However, with these more basic bowls, it's hard to get right around the very back in a confined space, but you try your best! Cheers
I wasn't happy hey! I should have put something behind the toilet before kicking! 😆 🤣 😂 However, I did fix it back up off camera for Xiaoming! Thanks for the message! I appreciate it
@@quantumhomeimprovements 😀I did the same thing and then read the cardboard box, but suspect on the rare off chance that the straps break they can say we told you so!
Big help had to replace my 31 year old dunny. Got the Australian made Raymor Essential all vitrious China. $237 from Tradelink not Chinese junk Bunnings.
Good stuff Moussa. Another well explained video. Thanks for taking the time out to produce this content which will help others with the same issue.
Thanks Joe, we started late and had a couple of slight issues but we enjoyed changing the toilet which turned out well.
What a thorough and well explained video! Thank you!
Thank you for your feedback! It's always appreciated!
Perfect timing for me again Moussa. I have been planning to replace my old toilet for some time your detailed explanation will be a great help
Great to hear, Garry, let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks so much for the video. It is clear and well explained. I bought the same suite before I even watched your video. Some great advice! Thank you Moussa!👍
Great, thanks for the feedback, James.
Great job! This flushing system seems like a great improvement 👏
The Caroma Uni set 2 is great value considering the level of quality in the unit!
What a brilliant video! you just orgot to mention the inlet adjustment.
Thank you! I am Intending in making more toilet installation videos in the future and will make sure to explain how to do it. Cheers
Splendid job🎉 Thank you Moussa😊
You are very welcome Xiaoming! Sorry about the wall!!!
No worries at all😊
Love your work, mate! Good to see how to install the S trap system. I have couple questions regarding of removing the existing system, mine is also the S trap, and how can you tell if it is cemented or they are always? I can see my bowel hAs four screws on the bottom and white silicon seal on the edge
Thank you!
First of all, if you see silicone, then there is a high chance that it will not be cemented down. If you use a utility knife and cut the silicone, which should release the bowl! But if you can visually see screws then undo them first!
I would be very surprised if someone cement, screwed and siliconed a toilet bowl down!
Please let me know how you go!
Wow, you explained it so well. Thank you mate!
Thanks Ossie! Cheers
Wow, I’m looking forward to replacing mine.
I like your videos very detailed explanation
Good timing! I appreciate your feed Jerry. It's great to have you on board.
great tutorial ,, looking for a s trap toilet but is farther from the wall, think is old victorian , with a ring on the waste
Thanks Gessto! Depending on where you are but there are specially shops that sell older style toilet, but gee they can be pricey! Cheers
Nice job done!
I missed this message, which is not unusual for me! Thank you for your feedback!
Very well explained. I've recently replaced my cistern with the Uniset II, can you confirm if this flush system only works when you hold down the button until you let go?
I found the half flush is a quick push down, but the full flush needed to be held down, as you said!
@@quantumhomeimprovements Thanks for the quick response, for me both seems to require holding down, hmm! I wonder if something is wrong with my flush then.
The half flush will need to be held down for a second or so but yes, if you continue holding it down, the cistern will empty, which you won't need when flushing urine down. But if a second is not sufficient enough then you may need to check with the manufacturer.
I hope this helps, Moussa
Hi.... great video. I'm wondering if you can tell me why my older coroma flush buttons have to be held down to continue flushing. If I let go the flush stops.
Thanks
Thank you!
It also happens even with newer toilets I have noticed. However, depending on the brand & type of cistern you have, it could be adjusted, but you will need to look it up. It's usually due to the seal not opening fully to allow the water to escape easily! Sometimes, it can be a very easy adjustment.
Great video, very helpfull
Thank you for your feedback. Cheers
Porcelain or plastic cistern? The cistern plastic in video looks a bit cheap?
Hi Terriallen, my apologies, I misted your message somehow. Yes, it was plastic.
Im about to install a new toilet in my overhauled bathroom.
On the Carona box ,it still says install with cement under the toilet .
Surety without this cement the toilet base will lack strength?
I can't see silicon being a long term answer.
Hey Noel, it will also say to place screws through the floor into your waterproofing! This is a big mistake as far as the waterproofing professionals are concerned! Cement base toilets Do Not hold the bowl, any pressure will break the bond and will losen the toilet! Do what ever you feel is right for you but I do not know any plumbers who will use Cement these days! I personally have used a high quality Silicone to fix the toilets for 20 years now and not one has lost its strength. However, you need to know how to apply Silicone and neutral curing is highly recommended.
P.S. I have both a waterproofing technicians licence and a bathroom kitchen & laundry renovation licence! Plus Carpentary. Look up Moussa Seecy in the Fairtrading website to see my history.
Did you screw down the toilet to the floor or just silicon?
No, I have a waterproofing technicians licence, and I do not like to damage waterproofed wet areas. Silicone is all I used, which has been common practice for plumbers now for many years. I will be making a video sometime next year explaining this in much more detail. Cheers
Hi I'm looking for the part where u drill the holes into the tiles and screw the toilet into the tiles but I can't find thst bit on Ur video. I noticed mine didn't come with the screws for this bit. Is that normal? Also, when I do a full flush, the cistine only half empties. Is it supposed to do that? Thank you so much in advance for any help
I mean where u screw the toilet into the tiles in the floor. And again, I didn't see in the box thst it came with these screw and I'm wondering if this is normal
You are welcome & yes, the manufacturers usually suggest to screw the toilet down. However, I my life time I have never seen this practiced! I the old days people would only cement the bowl down. But now I only see people using silicone to hold the toilet down! I personally don't like drilling through the floor tiles because I am a waterproof technician and don't like to compromise on the integrity of the membrane!
In regards to the level of water, it should flush all the way down. Could I ask if you installed the same toilet?
@quantumhomeimprovements thank you so much for Ur reply. Yes it's the uniset 2 s trap I bought from bunnings
👍 I am just double checking with Xiaoming if the toilet cistern empties completely after we place the plastic reducer! However, he is visiting his sick mother overseas at the moment, but I will confirm it hopefully soon!
Sorry for the delay, but Xiaoming confirmed as I thought that a full flush should empty the cistern!
With the drain pipe cut down flush to the floor, what will you do next time you want to change the adapter?
Good question, Daniel! The pan collar needs to be low to the ground for the toilet to sit over it correctly. The main reason we changed it was due to it being so far off centre. So I changed the pan collar to an offset collar to try and get it closer to the middle of the room as possible as I showed on the video. However, generally speaking, you will not need to change it again. But if you do need to replace it then you can get a good idea from what I showed on video, hopefully!
Caroma Toilets are like Nokia of the Toilet world. We had one and is still ticking at our old farmhouse. The house is 105 years old and the toilet is around 70 years old. The house is good old Australian Oregan timber and local hardwood as post for the house.
An oldie but a goldie!
@@quantumhomeimprovements Yes indeed!
Shouldn't you screw the pan to the floor and not rely only on just the silicon joint? That's what I'm reading in the Caroma instructions for the Wall Faced toilet that I am installing. Thanks for the video. Its quite good otherwise.
Hey Fsharp, you are welcome.
Just confirming that I have a Carpenters, Renovator & water proofing licence and have installed a lot of toilets over the years in my bathroom renovations business. I have to say, without any reservations, that would never, ever drill a hole in the floor even though the manufacturer recommended it. And I have known many plumbers over the years, relatives & good friends and they would do the same as me.
There are reasons why the manufacturer has suggested this and I would differentiately challenge then is its tge only method that they recommend.
Place silicone at the base of the pan has become the industry standard and I truly believe it's a far better technique than drilling through potential water proofing membrane!
I hope my reply sheds more light onto the subject!
Thanks for that info. It does make sense.@@quantumhomeimprovements
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the pan won't move at all with a high quality silicone and if you need to remove the toilet at a later date for maintenance, it's easy to cut the silicone using a Stanley knife and then re-silicone the pan back after you finish it.
I notice you didn't silicone around the whole bowl. Can you comment on this? I assume so you know when to replace the seal.
Hey Daiel, good observation!
During the editing of this video, I found the full sequence was too long, but in reality, I did place silicone as far back around the bowl as far as I could. If you can draw the screen bigger, you might be able to see it as I finished off the other side! However, with these more basic bowls, it's hard to get right around the very back in a confined space, but you try your best! Cheers
Hahahaha, cracked up when you kicked the toilet and dented the wall, mate. 😂 Otherwise, great work!
I wasn't happy hey! I should have put something behind the toilet before kicking! 😆 🤣 😂
However, I did fix it back up off camera for Xiaoming!
Thanks for the message! I appreciate it
A couple of months ago I replaced my toilet with the exact same suite
How did you go with it?
@@quantumhomeimprovements really well
There is a note on the box of the toilet
Do not lift up product using strap. What if it said
Do not use lifts if there is a fire
😆 🤣 😂
@@quantumhomeimprovements 😀I did the same thing and then read the cardboard box, but suspect on the rare off chance that the straps break they can say we told you so!
@@jamesmcfarlane7146 😆 🤣 😂
15:29 bang
14:43
When I install toilets I always like to remove stickers
😆 🤣 😂 me too! I left it for Xiaoming to take off to make him feel useful! 💪
@anthony-1357 😆 🤣 😂 that is funny!
Big help had to replace my 31 year old dunny. Got the Australian made Raymor Essential all vitrious China. $237 from Tradelink not Chinese junk Bunnings.
Thanks Jess, I will have a look at Tradelink. That is a good price for a reliable toilet!
Moussa if you can kick like that while your injured than you should have been a soccer player, good job on the toilet hope it wasn’t to shitty.