I can't imagine that's code compliant, but then again, I'm not a plumber. Intuitively, I would have used low-strength epoxy, or silicone rubber from a caulking gun, rather than molten lead!
Nice job!! I haven't poured a lead joint since the late 80's. When I run into this situation in old buildings, I use the "plastic" lead and being I don't have any lead working tools, different size screwdrivers do a good job at packing the oakum into the joint....LOL But if I can, I would cut out he H&S fitting and adapt to PVC with a NO-Hub band like you did with the PVC. Again, very nice work. One suggestion from an old plumber.....KNEE PADS! Trust me, they are worth their weight in gold!
That was my job starting out in the plumbing business in 1974 I drove the okam and heated the lead in a pot breathing it the whole time. I’m still plumbing at 66 and still love it
66 is young don’t chew your words man, so many people from your era are dead from construction ie, plumbing, painting and general contracting.. breathing in contaminants and dust over the years. Most don’t get to 75. Be thankful and always wear the proper mask
I started my own business in 1973 which is 50 years ago. I still do some plumbing each week. I still go to work to help with my body and mind… Being over 70 the body and mind slows down pretty fast…
My father’s uncles were plumbers after returning from WW I. We had a box of tools in the basement that I never knew what were used for. Now I know they were for packing oakum, lead ingots, etc. Thanks for an informative video and an insight to family history. Only comment - first….I’d have put on gloves. 👍👍
I've used Fernco hub adapters in the past (rubber donut) to connect the PVC pipe to the cast iron hub. I didn't think that you could pour hot lead around PVC, PVC gets soft and rubbery with a lot of heat. One of the plumbers that I used to work with in the past, used epoxy putty (Oatey sticks) to secure the PVC pipe to the cast iron hub.
That is my biggest gripe with those boots. They are a royal pain to get on and seated! Especially because not all cast iron was made to exact dimensions. I am still on the hunt for a fool proof method of getting them set relatively quick and easy.
Having done plumbing for nearly 50 yrs in the uk. Also doing cast iron drainage within tbat time. We use what is called "yarn" to caulk the joint 1st like you used oakem! Then the lead is poured into the joint. Once the lead is in you then caulk that down into the joint , what that does is expand the lead into the groove in the cast iron socket, which also tightens the pipe, in this case plastic into the socket. You would normally "set" the lead by using a metal chisel where the lead meets the plastic. But seeing as your joint is plastic you can't do that ! 🙈 The plastic pipe being really smooth the oakem/ yarn doesn't really have anything to grip to so to speak . As if it was a piece of cast iron in place per sè it would be different. By caulking the lead down it expands not only in the groove but in the joint itself, making for a better tighter joint. In the uk when we caulked joints before they're leaded they had to withhold an air test & I was taught that if the joint was yarned properly you didn't really need the lead. That was a mark of a good plumber. Once the joints qas finish3d we'd paint bitomastic paint around the joint to stop the socket edges going rusty & also to make it look nicer. Back in the late 80's we did a construction job where we were using suspended lead caulkedb12" cast iron pipe & joints . They would take 2 huge ladles of lead per joint. As your soil pipes are mostly 3" to the toilets due to the use of syphonic pans where the contents are sucked out you can use smaller discharge pipework. In the uk its standard 110mm or 4 " Alot of younger plumbers have no idea how to caulk a joint in thr uk all they want to do is rop it out & use a flexy consatina joint made of plastic. Nothing as thick or as heavy duty as your pipe & fittings. Mostly ABS or uPVC . We did have alot of asbestos soil pipes installed in the 50 & 60's as it was a cheaper commodity back then. Now as we know it's a huge health issue when removing or repairing pipework.
@GodwinAndSons thanks for making this video. Discovering how interesting the trades are at 62 yrs old I missed out on a lot of trade secrets. Thanks to UA-cam, I can now makeup for lost time.
Seem very personable so, I will not critize ya. I am the last Generation in my family of plumbers starting with my Great Grandad and am 67 this year. Copper tyed into cast iron was and isnt unusal. In fact, my mother learned from Great Grandad too cut sheet lead, roll it into pipe's and hot lead the seams before cast iron bell and spigot pipe was heard of. Called; "wiping lead". When I cut my teeth in plumbing, early 1970's, we were pouring lead &okam joints and caulking irons, "inside &outside iron's" we used too pack the lead ring after it cooled, water tight. We did horizontal with a pouring rope made of asbestos and a clamp in the ditch. Had lead pot's, burners a laddle and lead ingots. In the late 70's this was gradually replaced with neopren "Ty-seal gaskets and snake snot grease and a lead mallet made on location too set and knock those joints into the bell past the neopren inner seal. Then Ridgid came out with the chain puller rig, heavy and cumbersom too pull the pipe into the bell past the inner second seal of the gasket, you had two seals. The in the early 80's just before " Plastics" abs, pvc, there was thee no hub cast iron bands. History of plumbing goes way back before roman times and thee aquq ducts. Copper, lead,, orange burg, clay tile, cast iron, duck tile,, worked with those and,,,, now ya got junk plastic's that look like a landscaper with garden hose installed the system. Me,,, I think the trades have lost the most important ingredient, "PRIDE IN THERE CRAFT" over production.
We did plumbing work before the day of plastic pipe. All drain pipe was cast iron. We heated our lead in a melting pot. One great lessons I learned quick was to not stand close to the lead if a spring shower pops up.
Still code in Chicago area. They sell a pvc soil pipe adapter specifically for this use. It’s at depot and Menards 2” and 4” Also we still have to pack the lead like you did oakum after it’s poured and cooled a bit.
Dude you saved my weekend I had a similar problem the guy at home store looked at me like I was from another planet when I was explaining my situation , it was an old pipe I know and obviously he never had come across this type of fitting so thank you sir for posting this great video 👍
I read that maximum temp for pvc is 140 Fahrenheit. I also read that melting point for led is 640 farenheight. California plumber here who only cuts out cast iron and has never poured a lead and oakum joint
Would you believe me if I told you that that job really was done incorrectly! I’m a master plumber for 34+ years and he definitely did it the wrong way!
I know there is an Oaken impregnated with some kind of cement. You just add water and you push in the crevice around the PVC/ABS pipe. I prefer to use a Fernco Donut Adaptor.
Great job, this video brings back so many memories. In the past I always used a ground down tire iron. I was too cheap to buy the proper tool since I did so few oakum jobs. I used to use a propane take mounted kettle for lead melting but that was a pain.
Strange they didn't use a Manoff fitting in the Cast Iron hub. They do make a manoff adapter for PVC pipe. They take the heat better from the hot lead. I remember in class for license they taught us that for every inch of cast Iron you use a pound of lead. 3 inch cast iron hub requires 3 pounds of lead. Nice job
Very good point! Unfortunately it was well last closing time at the supply houses and this repair had to be done. I had not rubber bushing or manoffs, so this was the next best thing to do.
I took the state plumbing test for Illinois! Lead had to be 1" thick in depth regardless of the soil pipes diameter. "Happy plumbing" P.s. In my area (if being inspected) we have to use a soil adpt in the cast iron hub and then a no hub adapter on pvc side with HD 4 bolt no hub band. Ridiculous for such a small repair.
@@richardcooper6560 is that what they call a strong back coupling (4 bolts) That sounds like what we would call a strong back ... Flex connector with a metal shield and 4 hose clamps around it?
I’m a retired Aussie plumber and watched your video with interest. Okam, we know it as Hemp here in Australia. Anyway I was surprised to see you using molten lead to seal the joint between PVC and Cast Iron. Personally I would have used a two part cast iron epoxy jointing compound. It dries as hard as rock, is water tight and will even cure under water. Messy to mix unless you keep your hands wet or it sticks like s..t to blanket 😂 Also there is no heat or naked flame required which makes the process a lot safer. Keep up the good work and videos 👍
Being a plumber for 40 years thats quit the the job. I’m sure it will work fine :-). Very timely 😮. I’m glad someone was willing to pay you a plumbers wage to do this video. Very nice 👍.
Great video, I replace the same thing and used a wire wheel on a high speed grinder to clean the inside of the cast and came out super clean. Ran the pipe down into the angle of the cast which made a tight fit and filled the gap with GE Silicon Caulking.....Zero leaks...
Thank you for sharing this, I really am clear on these types of joints now. I am not a licensed plumber but have made many repairs. Lately as of yesterday, I removed Oakham and lead but could not remove center cleanout hub. I was afraid to hammer too hard and break bell. Any suggestions? I just went with a fernco connection instead.
I didn't know you could pour lead around PVC like that. I thought it would burn right through it. When I did this once I used lead wool, which I packed around and tamped with the iron you use to push the oakum in. The other time I used this epoxy like material. It came in a caulking gun and I remember is was specifically for this.
Not a plumber but watched because I’m getting ready to do the same thing. This is the first time seeing oakum, pvc and lead being used. Some suggest cast iron should have been used instead. Others I’ve watched used the pvc/fernco combination but mention they can be a pain at times. In this video I like that the oakum was packed but makes me wonder why manufactures haven’t come up with large rubber O rings that could be slipped on the pvc first and tapped down in the joint between each layer of oakum. Combination of old and new.
I still have a set of the inner and outer caulking irons that are used after the lead is poured. I thought that the joint wasn't done until the lead was tamped with these tools. If you examine old poured joints you'll notice the strike marks in the lead against the hub and the pipe the tools leave.
You are absolutely correct. I did pack the lead and if you look close between the end and the pour you’ll notice the packing marks. I forgot to add that in the video.
I've never seen this kind of joint done before. They are all over my house, so it's great to see what would have to happen if I had a failure. Thanks, and well done!
I find the repair crazy. The way to connect the pvc to the bell of the cast iron is a JIFFY gasket. The way you made the connection is what we call a jack leg plumber.
I’m not a plumber, but in 1974 I had to make a similar joint except not vertically but horizontally. I replaced a 40’ 1 1/2” galvanized pipe to a cast iron hub with a 2” abs pipe. I don’t remember using oakum,but I used a compound out of a can that was like cement mortar, it leaked a little and I dripped 5 minute clear epoxy from the12 o’clock position and it sealed itself. After about 3 months it was clogged, I cleaned it with a garden hose and noticed the pitch was wrong. I repitched the pipe tying it down every 2 ‘ and it worked for the next 15 years till I sold the home. PS: I was kind of surprised that you were using lead and the rubber connector in this video, hasn’t the industry come up with anything new for this type of joint? I only use Fernco connectors on sump pump lines or vents.
They do make a rubber bushing for the hub connection, but this job was after hours and I was unable to get that bushing so the old fashioned way was the next best option. The 4-band clamp I used in my opinion is in no way related to a fernco coupling. It does use rubber to seal, but the support comes from the stainless steel jacket around it rather than the thickness of the rubber itself. It also has 4 clamps instead of two. When tightened down it creates a rock solid connection that no amount of hot water will warp. This style connector is what the industry uses to connect No-Hub Cast Iron. They can also be referred to as 4-Band No-Hub couplings or Husky Clamps. They also make them as 2-Band No-Hub Clamps. They make great repair couplings and provide ample flexibility for both installation and future service.
The two other extra tools you had was for packing the lead. One was a inside tool that would fit next to the pipe and the outside tool fit next to the collar of the fitting. You would tighten the lead all around the pipe and collar of the fitting. In some cases the lead would pack deeper than anticipated and you would need to pour extra lead.
@@GodwinAndSonsfor the past 50 plus years I’ve always had 2 inch 3 inch. Cast iron in my work van. With a bag of oakum all my irons to do a job correctly. I’ve tried putting plastic in place of cast. I just don’t feel it seats as well as cast iron.
I've got a 75-year-old building with cast iron plumbing I've replaced much of it with ABS and it works great but I avoid at all costs in a crawl space harming the the lead joints. I've watched others use a rubber gasket that goes into the hub and the PVC just pushes into it and I'm sure it works fine and that's what I would do it takes 1 minute. If I had to do a joint as you were doing it I would put some Oakhum at the bottom and then load it with silicone which would definitely seal it off for a very long time. I suppose you're pouring of the lead against a PVC was successful due to the cast iron sucking the heat out of the lead before it melted through the PVC. It's interesting but I would be concerned that the excess of heat may have deteriorated the PVC to some extent or maybe even burned it. It would be interesting to see a section of that joint to see what happened to the PVC pipe.
Speaking from experience the rubber bushings they make take far longer than 1 minute to install, especially because not all cast iron is the same dimensions. As far as the PVC is concerned it does get a surface burn, but it doesn’t effect the overall integrity. I will do a future video showing the profile of the joint.
The char would be my concern. I’d have to think under pressure (with a clogged pipe) the char would allow water through. I’m just not sure you could do a 10’ head test
@@GodwinAndSons 1 minute to install after 15 minutes or more of cleanup. From watching others do The lead joints they pound the lead after it's poured to expand it and I guess that is to compress it into all the little spots it didn't flow into. If I had to do a lead joint to a PVC or ABS pipe I would use the gasket and clean and dry the cast iron and glue the gasket in if it was necessary using silicone. One product I used that was surprisingly good was Henry's clear roof sealant. I used it to seal around flashing and it worked great but I also used it for other things and it is amazingly sticky. Thanks again for replying you have a great channel and I give all videos a like and I know the comments also help you. You deserve to get more coverage. Etc.
In general I don't criticize other plumbers. And I don't really have a critic here but a suggestion. I've never poured hot lead in my 24 years of plumbing. I have, however, repaired a cast iron joint that was leaking. After getting the hub cleaned out my journeyman showed me how to pack the oakum in properly. Then instead of hot lead we used lead wool and packed it around solidly. I'm not saying this was the correct way to do it, but it's how we did it and it seemed to work. And the pipe was very solid in that hub. So maybe throw some lead wool in with your oakum and try it...but wear gloves!
In Illinois we have to use caulk adapters to go in the ci hub. I've poured a few hundred lead joints to pvc. I always use a piece of paper to test the heat of the lead, to make sure I don't melt the pvc, I've seen guys melt big bubble looking things inside the pvc.
I'm a homeowner, didn't know you could lead PVC into a hub. I found they have a putty for a hub joints, but it looked like a joke to me. So I stuck with what I know, which is car repair. I used automotive urethane - windshield glue - with oakum packed in first. Urethane is very resilient, tough, and waterproof, but it keeps a little flex. At the time, I didn't know oakum did the bulk of the sealing, so I cleaned the inside of the hubs to bare metal for a perfect bond. It's been 10 years, the joints haven't leaked or come loose, even the horizontal ones are fine. I'll probably try a lead joint next time.
Amazing that people still are using lead and oakum in this day and age. I don't even have the tools to do it and only ever did it once in school like 12 years ago. Never even came on a job where I thought I'd need to use lead and oakum. Old ways die hard I suppose. Typically I'd use a donut compression gasket for this. Hammer it in the hub, shove the PVC in, job done. We've got all this great technology that makes the job easier than the old days, why not use it?
Depending on the hub size i like install a 1/2 of a coupling or heat a pc of scrap n sleeve the outside of pipe on vertical pours for pc of mind when tapping lead. Or lead wool for hoz joint.
Outstanding! Well done! I never thought you could caulk PVC with lead. I have one question. Do you go back after the joint cool an use a caulking chisel to compress and expand the lead in the joint ?
Very cool to see this done. I do have a question though- would there ever be an application where you’d have to pour the lead on a horizontal joint and not a vertical one? How would that work? Thanks!
I did in classroom almost 40yrs ago u use whats called a running rope that u wrap around horizontal joints to keep lead in until it hardens enough then remove we had a blast furnace right in the classroom to melt it it was disbanded following year due to not enough ventillation deemed a health hazard
@@leslupton7299 wow that’s cool, yeah definitely understand it being a health hazard but still… that’s a skill that’s not really well known anymore. Very cool! Thanks for the info :)
Just curious. My grandpa was a olde school Steamfitter Plumber and when he did anything with lead he wore a canister mask to prevent breathing fumes. Also dont they make a rubber o' ring that can slip between the rim and pvc ? I made a tool to pack the packing ...Looks like cylinder hones but welded on vise grips. Then you place around the pipe and tap top edges and all the packing goes down at once...Why couldn't you use a pvc coupling instead of rubber band? All in all a nice neat job ..i have old cast clean out fitting in the wall going through the wall to septic... Everything above is copper...House built in 67'
A mask is probably smart if you deal with it every day. They do make a rubber bushing, but this was well after supply houses closed so I couldn’t get one and the job needed to be done. The 4 band no hub clamps I use are arguably better than a coupling because they provide much more flexibility, not only during installation, but also for future servicing. With the stainless steel collar, once tightened, they are rock solid.
Looks good except for the last step of packing the lead with those tamps you have. Back in the day we could tell which plumber tamped the lead by the pattern they left.
Nice video. Clean and tight work though I am a bit skeptical about the PVC CI joint since it was not caulked. Have you used PVC repair slip couplers instead of ferncos for pvc to pvc joints?
The oakum is the caulk in this style joint. The lead is the retainer. I am not sure about slip couplings for a PVC application. The 4-band no hub clamp I used is my go-to as it provides ample flexibility during installations and future repairs. Once tightened they are rock solid. Solid rubber couplers like the one I took off are garbage.
Please enlighten me as an apprentice, how did the hot lead not melt through the PVC? I see that it worked but how does that not melt through the plastic and make the PVC weak?
Non plumber here.... my main is cast iron. My kitchen sink is pvc and the plumber that did it screwed a 1&1/2 pvc adapter into the cast iron. If there’s no sleeve or rubber/silicone thing does that mean I have a future failure? What should be used to connect a 1&1/2 pvc to 6in sewer main?
It's cool to see the old way to do it, but with modern advancements a rubber donut is the way to go. No debate either, faster, much easier, and will last.
I’ll debate😂 I would have used a rubber bushing, but this was after hours and they were unattainable. However, while they may last, I do not think they are easier to install and are at best equal in time if not longer. They are truly a royal pain to install and I pound them as much as the oakum
i wonder if they still make plastic caulking farrows fittings? I gave op pouring lead joints to avoid lead poisoning from lead fumes and dust. would grind out the remains of that debris in the 4" hub, and use no caulk donut.
you think this is better than the frenco boot? The rubber ring that sits inside the cast iron hub, then you insert the pipe into the rubber set in the hub.
It depends from what perspective you approach better. For ease of installation, the style in the video is way better. For an instant seal, the boot is better no doubt. I will say that if it was during regular hours and I could get the rubber bushing I would have used that.
The PVC simply receives a surface burn and softens slightly while the solid lead remains warm. The lead is not molten long enough to melt through the PVC. It also does not have enough head pressure to cause deformation while the plastic is warm and soft. It's similar to the way in which someone can wave their hand over a flame and not get burned. To prevent deformation inside the pipe the joint must cool. Once cool you can then pack the lead.
on the contrary I had this done at my father-in-law's house 6 feet of the cast-iron pipe was rotted out on the seam of the pipe from 40 years of the girls washing their hair upstairs and it settled in the pipe in the basement so I paid a guy $800 and he did that same exact job. I thought it was the washing machine leaking but when I moved it away and took the wall down I could see the main pipe from the upstairs had rotted through in the basement
I’ve seen that happen. For cast iron it’s common that the bottom or seam fails. Compared with copper though cast iron is much more robust. In certain applications, especially where sound management is concerned, cast iron is still preferred over plastic DWV piping
@@GodwinAndSons like the PVC it does fine, I just finished it and it worked as good as the PVC. Just make sure you wait a few minutes before caulking the joint.
Couldn’t you have used a strong silicone type of sealant instead for creating a seal? Heating led and using it on pipes is hazardous and contaminates water. Is there other alternatives?
Puzzled why clamp the two plastic pipes together, when gluing with a sleeve with the inner stop filed out would have been cheaper and easier? Last job we did like this we cut off the bells on the cast and because the OD of the plastic is the same as cast, we used the rubber and clamp to joint the plastic to the cast pipe going into the wall, with new plastic cleanout. Still good after 30 years.
The time it takes to file out the inner stop far outweighs the cost of the 4 band clamp. Plus the joint would look terrible as you have glue in areas that it wouldn't need to be. Add the marking and speed to ensure the alignment was good and it isn't worth it. Serviceability in the future is eliminated too. I would also not risk breaking that Cast Iron as I could quickly back myself into a mess. The way I did it allows for a completed repair, but also the ability for that cast iron to be replaced in the future without having to cut anything. Just loosen the clamp and swap it out.
Most of the time you're better off getting rid of all the cast iron as far back as you can. In this situation, the labor and time would be prohibitive in going further, through the wall. Soldering pvc isn't my first choice but it is probably the best compromise in this situation. Thank Gawd that no one is installing cast iron in new homes. This primitive technology will one day be gone. Plastic is so much better. Stays smoother inside and is less prone to leakage. I removed a abs drain line that had been in service for 20 years. Looking down the inside it was completely smooth and shiny. Makes clogged drains unlikely. By the way, I have seen cast iron completely rusted through especially in horozontal runs.
The septic will be replaced in the not to distant future so that last bit of cast iron will be done away with. I wouldn’t say cast iron is no longer being installed. It’s still used in commercial applications and also where sound is a concern.
What's the name of the rubber connector? I have a similar problem, and I did try to search for this type of connector, but I couldn't find any. The cast iron pipes in my house are all split open on the top side. They do hold up, but it's not gonna last long. The problem is that the pipe for the septic tank is on a basement ladder that is half exposed, and the other half around 1m underground and it's a hell of a job to replace... For the moment, I've put a smaller pipe inside the iron one because I had to replace around 1m that totally collapsed. It works, but that's not the way to go. The plan is to remove all the iron ones, and expose some of the underground pipe and connect the new plastic one with this type of connector.
Amazing job!
I never would’ve thought of pouring lead on to PVC.
But then again I’m not a plumber!
Schedule 40 or thicker PVC should take the abuse.
@@HealthSuperchargerI never knew this
I can't imagine that's code compliant, but then again, I'm not a plumber. Intuitively, I would have used low-strength epoxy, or silicone rubber from a caulking gun, rather than molten lead!
@@HealthSupercharger I'm surprised they don't use it for HVAC ducts. Seems like it would be more airtight, durable, and easier to work with than tin.
Nice job!!
I haven't poured a lead joint since the late 80's. When I run into this situation in old buildings, I use the "plastic" lead and being I don't have any lead working tools, different size screwdrivers do a good job at packing the oakum into the joint....LOL
But if I can, I would cut out he H&S fitting and adapt to PVC with a NO-Hub band like you did with the PVC.
Again, very nice work.
One suggestion from an old plumber.....KNEE PADS! Trust me, they are worth their weight in gold!
That was my job starting out in the plumbing business in 1974 I drove the okam and heated the lead in a pot breathing it the whole time. I’m still plumbing at 66 and still love it
66 is young don’t chew your words man, so many people from your era are dead from construction ie, plumbing, painting and general contracting.. breathing in contaminants and dust over the years. Most don’t get to 75. Be thankful and always wear the proper mask
A must to work with gloves need to work with a runner need to tap the lead after pouring
I did the same thing in 1973.
I take it a day at a time work spend time with my family and go to church and get recharged
I started my own business in 1973 which is 50 years ago.
I still do some plumbing each week. I still go to work to help with my body and mind…
Being over 70 the body and mind slows down pretty fast…
My father’s uncles were plumbers after returning from WW I. We had a box of tools in the basement that I never knew what were used for. Now I know they were for packing oakum, lead ingots, etc. Thanks for an informative video and an insight to family history.
Only comment - first….I’d have put on gloves. 👍👍
I've used Fernco hub adapters in the past (rubber donut) to connect the PVC pipe to the cast iron hub. I didn't think that you could pour hot lead around PVC, PVC gets soft and rubbery with a lot of heat. One of the plumbers that I used to work with in the past, used epoxy putty (Oatey sticks) to secure the PVC pipe to the cast iron hub.
I thought u needed a man-off
the frenco boot i used on my abando rehab worked well at connecting to the existing cast iron.
they are a freaking quest to get on though. I needed to use two gasket removing tools to slip it over the pipe even with some grease.
@@CornThaddieusThy3rd I use some silicone grease, it helps a lot.
That is my biggest gripe with those boots. They are a royal pain to get on and seated! Especially because not all cast iron was made to exact dimensions. I am still on the hunt for a fool proof method of getting them set relatively quick and easy.
Very impressive, I doubt it if a single plumber in SoCal has lead and oakum in their service truck or van in 2024.
I’m a plumber on SoCal and I can assure you nobody has any of this
@@toptiermango2122 Exactly the only one someone would save a cast iron hub is stick a donut in it and run ABS or PVC.
Having done plumbing for nearly 50 yrs in the uk. Also doing cast iron drainage within tbat time. We use what is called "yarn" to caulk the joint 1st like you used oakem!
Then the lead is poured into the joint. Once the lead is in you then caulk that down into the joint , what that does is expand the lead into the groove in the cast iron socket, which also tightens the pipe, in this case plastic into the socket. You would normally "set" the lead by using a metal chisel where the lead meets the plastic. But seeing as your joint is plastic you can't do that ! 🙈
The plastic pipe being really smooth the oakem/ yarn doesn't really have anything to grip to so to speak . As if it was a piece of cast iron in place per sè it would be different. By caulking the lead down it expands not only in the groove but in the joint itself, making for a better tighter joint.
In the uk when we caulked joints before they're leaded they had to withhold an air test & I was taught that if the joint was yarned properly you didn't really need the lead. That was a mark of a good plumber. Once the joints qas finish3d we'd paint bitomastic paint around the joint to stop the socket edges going rusty & also to make it look nicer.
Back in the late 80's we did a construction job where we were using suspended lead caulkedb12" cast iron pipe & joints . They would take 2 huge ladles of lead per joint.
As your soil pipes are mostly 3" to the toilets due to the use of syphonic pans where the contents are sucked out you can use smaller discharge pipework. In the uk its standard 110mm or 4 "
Alot of younger plumbers have no idea how to caulk a joint in thr uk all they want to do is rop it out & use a flexy consatina joint made of plastic. Nothing as thick or as heavy duty as your pipe & fittings. Mostly ABS or uPVC . We did have alot of asbestos soil pipes installed in the 50 & 60's as it was a cheaper commodity back then. Now as we know it's a huge health issue when removing or repairing pipework.
Great comment! I enjoyed it, thanks for taking the time to post it!
@GodwinAndSons thanks for making this video. Discovering how interesting the trades are at 62 yrs old I missed out on a lot of trade secrets. Thanks to UA-cam, I can now makeup for lost time.
Seem very personable so, I will not critize ya. I am the last Generation in my family of plumbers starting with my Great Grandad and am 67 this year. Copper tyed into cast iron was and isnt unusal. In fact, my mother learned from Great Grandad too cut sheet lead, roll it into pipe's and hot lead the seams before cast iron bell and spigot pipe was heard of. Called; "wiping lead". When I cut my teeth in plumbing, early 1970's, we were pouring lead &okam joints and caulking irons, "inside &outside iron's" we used too pack the lead ring after it cooled, water tight. We did horizontal with a pouring rope made of asbestos and a clamp in the ditch. Had lead pot's, burners a laddle and lead ingots. In the late 70's this was gradually replaced with neopren "Ty-seal gaskets and snake snot grease and a lead mallet made on location too set and knock those joints into the bell past the neopren inner seal. Then Ridgid came out with the chain puller rig, heavy and cumbersom too pull the pipe into the bell past the inner second seal of the gasket, you had two seals. The in the early 80's just before " Plastics" abs, pvc, there was thee no hub cast iron bands. History of plumbing goes way back before roman times and thee aquq ducts. Copper, lead,, orange burg, clay tile, cast iron, duck tile,, worked with those and,,,, now ya got junk plastic's that look like a landscaper with garden hose installed the system. Me,,, I think the trades have lost the most important ingredient, "PRIDE IN THERE CRAFT" over production.
Much enjoyed the comment! Pride in the craft as you say is a big thing and too many just slap things together without much of a thought.
We did plumbing work before the day of plastic pipe. All drain pipe was cast iron. We heated our lead in a melting pot. One great lessons I learned quick was to not stand close to the lead if a spring shower pops up.
Reminds me of my apprenticeship days. I sure did learn alot doing cast iron work. Appreciate your detail to getting the job done right.
Appreciate you taking the time to create the video
Some of the best content is when video show how to connect dissimilar materials.
Good craftsmanship from the younger plumbing generation . Keep up the good work !
Still code in Chicago area. They sell a pvc soil pipe adapter specifically for this use. It’s at depot and Menards 2” and 4”
Also we still have to pack the lead like you did oakum after it’s poured and cooled a bit.
old school, in the 80's. that's when I learned plumbing 👉😎👍. good job
Dude you saved my weekend I had a similar problem the guy at home store looked at me like I was from another planet when I was explaining my situation , it was an old pipe I know and obviously he never had come across this type of fitting so thank you sir for posting this great video 👍
I read that maximum temp for pvc is 140 Fahrenheit. I also read that melting point for led is 640 farenheight. California plumber here who only cuts out cast iron and has never poured a lead and oakum joint
Prolonged exposure to 140 + will deteriorate the pvc, but such a short time with the cast sucking the heat away leads to deminimous damage
Interesting to hear
Not a plumber but I've hit PVC electrical conduit with a non temp controlled heat gun to bend it and that's allowed I imagine this is the same.
Very interesting, first time I've seen this done from start to finish. You explained it well. Nice job !!!!! Thank you. 😃👍
Would you believe me if I told you that that job really was done incorrectly! I’m a master plumber for 34+ years and he definitely did it the wrong way!
I know there is an Oaken impregnated with some kind of cement. You just add water and you push in the crevice around the PVC/ABS pipe. I prefer to use a Fernco Donut Adaptor.
Great job, this video brings back so many memories. In the past I always used a ground down tire iron. I was too cheap to buy the proper tool since I did so few oakum jobs. I used to use a propane take mounted kettle for lead melting but that was a pain.
Strange they didn't use a Manoff fitting in the Cast Iron hub. They do make a manoff adapter for PVC pipe. They take the heat better from the hot lead. I remember in class for license they taught us that for every inch of cast Iron you use a pound of lead. 3 inch cast iron hub requires 3 pounds of lead. Nice job
Very good point! Unfortunately it was well last closing time at the supply houses and this repair had to be done. I had not rubber bushing or manoffs, so this was the next best thing to do.
I took the state plumbing test for Illinois! Lead had to be 1" thick in depth regardless of the soil pipes diameter. "Happy plumbing"
P.s. In my area (if being inspected) we have to use a soil adpt in the cast iron hub and then a no hub adapter on pvc side with HD 4 bolt no hub band. Ridiculous for such a small repair.
@@richardcooper6560 is that what they call a strong back coupling (4 bolts) That sounds like what we would call a strong back ... Flex connector with a metal shield and 4 hose clamps around it?
I’m a retired Aussie plumber and watched your video with interest.
Okam, we know it as Hemp here in Australia. Anyway I was surprised to see you using molten lead to seal the joint between PVC and Cast Iron.
Personally I would have used a two part cast iron epoxy jointing compound.
It dries as hard as rock, is water tight and will even cure under water.
Messy to mix unless you keep your hands wet or it sticks like s..t to blanket 😂
Also there is no heat or naked flame required which makes the process a lot safer.
Keep up the good work and videos 👍
Feraphry
Yes that’s the stuff, it’s been around forever 👍
No hub adapter job is wrong would never pass code
Being a plumber for 40 years thats quit the the job. I’m sure it will work fine :-). Very timely 😮. I’m glad someone was willing to pay you a plumbers wage to do this video. Very nice 👍.
Great video, I replace the same thing and used a wire wheel on a high speed grinder to clean the inside of the cast and came out super clean. Ran the pipe down into the angle of the cast which made a tight fit and filled the gap with GE Silicon Caulking.....Zero leaks...
Thank you for sharing this, I really am clear on these types of joints now. I am not a licensed plumber but have made many repairs. Lately as of yesterday, I removed Oakham and lead but could not remove center cleanout hub. I was afraid to hammer too hard and break bell. Any suggestions? I just went with a fernco connection instead.
Trolls suck! I’m no plumber. That joint is looking good. Nice job and well thought out.
I didn't know you could pour lead around PVC like that. I thought it would burn right through it. When I did this once I used lead wool, which I packed around and tamped with the iron you use to push the oakum in. The other time I used this epoxy like material. It came in a caulking gun and I remember is was specifically for this.
Hey I had someone steal my packing tools which an old timer plumber gave to me years back. He was expert Plumber and taught me plenty.
Love the Daddy Longlegs on the wall.A plumber works with nature😂
Not a plumber but watched because I’m getting ready to do the same thing. This is the first time seeing oakum, pvc and lead being used. Some suggest cast iron should have been used instead. Others I’ve watched used the pvc/fernco combination but mention they can be a pain at times.
In this video I like that the oakum was packed but makes me wonder why manufactures haven’t come up with large rubber O rings that could be slipped on the pvc first and tapped down in the joint between each layer of oakum. Combination of old and new.
4 inch furnco compression coupling look it up. never seen that way done looked good ty for taking time to expand our perspectives on plumbing
I use the compression gaskets. Also called doughnut gaskets, multi tight, ez tight, whatever you were taught.
I do too, but the supply houses were all closed and I didn’t have any. Job needed to be done, so this was the solution.
We call em Ty seals down here in Texas
I still have a set of the inner and outer caulking irons that are used after the lead is poured. I thought that the joint wasn't done until the lead was tamped with these tools. If you examine old poured joints you'll notice the strike marks in the lead against the hub and the pipe the tools leave.
You are absolutely correct. I did pack the lead and if you look close between the end and the pour you’ll notice the packing marks. I forgot to add that in the video.
I've never seen this kind of joint done before. They are all over my house, so it's great to see what would have to happen if I had a failure. Thanks, and well done!
Can this type of joint be done on horizontal installations? Seems to me I’ve got a pipe or two under my house connected this way.
You can do this horizontally you just need a rope to hold the lead in as you poor look it up on UA-cam to get a better idea
I find the repair crazy. The way to connect the pvc to the bell of the cast iron is a JIFFY gasket. The way you made the connection is what we call a jack leg plumber.
You don’t know what the fuck you’re talking about.
looks good to me, but I usually pack around the lead once it's cooled at least thats the way I was taught.
I’m not a plumber, but in 1974 I had to make a similar joint except not vertically but horizontally. I replaced a 40’ 1 1/2” galvanized pipe to a cast iron hub with a 2” abs pipe. I don’t remember using oakum,but I used a compound out of a can that was like cement mortar, it leaked a little and I dripped 5 minute clear epoxy from the12 o’clock position and it sealed itself. After about 3 months it was clogged, I cleaned it with a garden hose and noticed the pitch was wrong. I repitched the pipe tying it down every 2 ‘ and it worked for the next 15 years till I sold the home.
PS: I was kind of surprised that you were using lead and the rubber connector in this video, hasn’t the industry come up with anything new for this type of joint? I only use Fernco connectors on sump pump lines or vents.
They do make a rubber bushing for the hub connection, but this job was after hours and I was unable to get that bushing so the old fashioned way was the next best option. The 4-band clamp I used in my opinion is in no way related to a fernco coupling. It does use rubber to seal, but the support comes from the stainless steel jacket around it rather than the thickness of the rubber itself. It also has 4 clamps instead of two. When tightened down it creates a rock solid connection that no amount of hot water will warp. This style connector is what the industry uses to connect No-Hub Cast Iron. They can also be referred to as 4-Band No-Hub couplings or Husky Clamps. They also make them as 2-Band No-Hub Clamps. They make great repair couplings and provide ample flexibility for both installation and future service.
@@GodwinAndSons Thank-you for your detailed answer…..
Is there a mechanical connection you can use like he put on the top side of the PVC and use it over the hub of the cast iron to connect the PVC?
The two other extra tools you had was for packing the lead. One was a inside tool that would fit next to the pipe and the outside tool fit next to the collar of the fitting. You would tighten the lead all around the pipe and collar of the fitting. In some cases the lead would pack deeper than anticipated and you would need to pour extra lead.
RE:kennypowell77. Thank you. I had it in the back of my head that you are suppose to tamp the lead down, but I wasn't sure.
Interesting repair. Looks like it should last a long time. Could you also take a piece of hub less cast iron and do the same thing?
I don’t see why not, but to carry that around for the very few times this circumstance arises is not cost effective.
@@GodwinAndSonsfor the past 50 plus years I’ve always had 2 inch 3 inch. Cast iron in my work van. With a bag of oakum all my irons to do a job correctly. I’ve tried putting plastic in place of cast. I just don’t feel it seats as well as cast iron.
I've got a 75-year-old building with cast iron plumbing I've replaced much of it with ABS and it works great but I avoid at all costs in a crawl space harming the the lead joints. I've watched others use a rubber gasket that goes into the hub and the PVC just pushes into it and I'm sure it works fine and that's what I would do it takes 1 minute. If I had to do a joint as you were doing it I would put some Oakhum at the bottom and then load it with silicone which would definitely seal it off for a very long time. I suppose you're pouring of the lead against a PVC was successful due to the cast iron sucking the heat out of the lead before it melted through the PVC. It's interesting but I would be concerned that the excess of heat may have deteriorated the PVC to some extent or maybe even burned it. It would be interesting to see a section of that joint to see what happened to the PVC pipe.
Speaking from experience the rubber bushings they make take far longer than 1 minute to install, especially because not all cast iron is the same dimensions.
As far as the PVC is concerned it does get a surface burn, but it doesn’t effect the overall integrity. I will do a future video showing the profile of the joint.
The char would be my concern. I’d have to think under pressure (with a clogged pipe) the char would allow water through. I’m just not sure you could do a 10’ head test
@@GodwinAndSons thanks for your reply and giving me the benefit of your experience.
@@GodwinAndSons 1 minute to install after 15 minutes or more of cleanup. From watching others do The lead joints they pound the lead after it's poured to expand it and I guess that is to compress it into all the little spots it didn't flow into. If I had to do a lead joint to a PVC or ABS pipe I would use the gasket and clean and dry the cast iron and glue the gasket in if it was necessary using silicone. One product I used that was surprisingly good was Henry's clear roof sealant. I used it to seal around flashing and it worked great but I also used it for other things and it is amazingly sticky. Thanks again for replying you have a great channel and I give all videos a like and I know the comments also help you. You deserve to get more coverage. Etc.
In general I don't criticize other plumbers. And I don't really have a critic here but a suggestion. I've never poured hot lead in my 24 years of plumbing. I have, however, repaired a cast iron joint that was leaking. After getting the hub cleaned out my journeyman showed me how to pack the oakum in properly. Then instead of hot lead we used lead wool and packed it around solidly. I'm not saying this was the correct way to do it, but it's how we did it and it seemed to work. And the pipe was very solid in that hub. So maybe throw some lead wool in with your oakum and try it...but wear gloves!
In Illinois we have to use caulk adapters to go in the ci hub. I've poured a few hundred lead joints to pvc. I always use a piece of paper to test the heat of the lead, to make sure I don't melt the pvc, I've seen guys melt big bubble looking things inside the pvc.
I'm a homeowner, didn't know you could lead PVC into a hub. I found they have a putty for a hub joints, but it looked like a joke to me. So I stuck with what I know, which is car repair. I used automotive urethane - windshield glue - with oakum packed in first. Urethane is very resilient, tough, and waterproof, but it keeps a little flex. At the time, I didn't know oakum did the bulk of the sealing, so I cleaned the inside of the hubs to bare metal for a perfect bond. It's been 10 years, the joints haven't leaked or come loose, even the horizontal ones are fine. I'll probably try a lead joint next time.
I use Tyseals. That way, it looks like more fun. Looks good to me. Nice job.
Amazing that people still are using lead and oakum in this day and age. I don't even have the tools to do it and only ever did it once in school like 12 years ago. Never even came on a job where I thought I'd need to use lead and oakum. Old ways die hard I suppose.
Typically I'd use a donut compression gasket for this. Hammer it in the hub, shove the PVC in, job done. We've got all this great technology that makes the job easier than the old days, why not use it?
The donuts are good and I would have used it if I could have got one. I don’t know that I would say they are easier though!
So it did the same job last week I used to that up Manheim in no room up in the ceiling a quarter joint so I use it inside Franco for my 4 by 3
There are hub adapters for this purposes, used with no hub fitting you could use a slip coupling up top and been done in half hour.
@Dicofole It's Called Lead Wool!!!!
Depending on the hub size i like install a 1/2 of a coupling or heat a pc of scrap n sleeve the outside of pipe on vertical pours for pc of mind when tapping lead. Or lead wool for hoz joint.
For the horizontal joints I use a joint runner rope and then pour the lead into that.
Greetings from 🇩🇿 Algiers,
Good job,keep it up.
Outstanding! Well done! I never thought you could caulk PVC with lead. I have one question. Do you go back after the joint cool an use a caulking chisel to compress and expand the lead in the joint ?
Yes, you should go back and pack the lead. I did just that only forgot to hit record!🙈
Very interesting and I learned a lot from this video thanks for this
Very cool to see this done. I do have a question though- would there ever be an application where you’d have to pour the lead on a horizontal joint and not a vertical one? How would that work? Thanks!
F
I did in classroom almost 40yrs ago u use whats called a running rope that u wrap around horizontal joints to keep lead in until it hardens enough then remove we had a blast furnace right in the classroom to melt it it was disbanded following year due to not enough ventillation deemed a health hazard
@@leslupton7299 wow that’s cool, yeah definitely understand it being a health hazard but still… that’s a skill that’s not really well known anymore. Very cool! Thanks for the info :)
Yes indeed! I plan to make a video showing the process for pouring horizontal joints soon!
Cool video, didn’t know you can do a lead and oakum joint with PVC.
Have you tried using "Service Weight Cast Iron Hub to PVC compression coupling"?
I always wondered how it was done.thanks for the info
Just curious. My grandpa was a olde school Steamfitter Plumber and when he did anything with lead he wore a canister mask to prevent breathing fumes. Also dont they make a rubber o' ring that can slip between the rim and pvc ? I made a tool to pack the packing ...Looks like cylinder hones but welded on vise grips. Then you place around the pipe and tap top edges and all the packing goes down at once...Why couldn't you use a pvc coupling instead of rubber band? All in all a nice neat job ..i have old cast clean out fitting in the wall going through the wall to septic... Everything above is copper...House built in 67'
A mask is probably smart if you deal with it every day. They do make a rubber bushing, but this was well after supply houses closed so I couldn’t get one and the job needed to be done. The 4 band no hub clamps I use are arguably better than a coupling because they provide much more flexibility, not only during installation, but also for future servicing. With the stainless steel collar, once tightened, they are rock solid.
Looks good except for the last step of packing the lead with those tamps you have. Back in the day we could tell which plumber tamped the lead by the pattern they left.
Nice video. Clean and tight work though I am a bit skeptical about the PVC CI joint since it was not caulked. Have you used PVC repair slip couplers instead of ferncos for pvc to pvc joints?
The oakum is the caulk in this style joint. The lead is the retainer. I am not sure about slip couplings for a PVC application. The 4-band no hub clamp I used is my go-to as it provides ample flexibility during installations and future repairs. Once tightened they are rock solid. Solid rubber couplers like the one I took off are garbage.
Cool man and nice and clean work!!
Pack the lead- they have inside/outside irons for that
Awesome video! I'm a diy and my only question whats the cloth being packed around the pvc called? Thanks in advance
Freakin awesome!!!!!! Me not knowing too much about the trade, I probably would have used a fernco donut.
You did a magnificent job
Is that entire thing the HUB ? Or is there another name for that hunk of cast iron which has 2 HUBS on it that I can see.
I have never seen this process being done.
I have always wondered how these oakum and lead hubs were done.
How do you do a horizontal hub?!
That was a clean job ! Exelent
Can plumbers putty be used instead of lead? Also how does the molten lead not burn thru the PVC pipe?
This was required at the plumbing school back in early 2010. Never used oakum out in the field tho.
PVC with melted lead ? I never saw that before. Will not PVC melt with that temperature?
Please enlighten me as an apprentice, how did the hot lead not melt through the PVC?
I see that it worked but how does that not melt through the plastic and make the PVC weak?
is the HUB the entire cast iron part that is visible, or are there separate 'HUBS' visible in this video, (at 15:53 for example) ?
Hey just subscribed
Looking forward to your adventures.
Non plumber here.... my main is cast iron. My kitchen sink is pvc and the plumber that did it screwed a 1&1/2 pvc adapter into the cast iron. If there’s no sleeve or rubber/silicone thing does that mean I have a future failure?
What should be used to connect a 1&1/2 pvc to 6in sewer main?
You didn't pack the lead. You're supposed to pack it down with a lead packing iron. It will tighten the lead up in the cast iron hub.
Looks great. 👍🏽. Maybe PlasticSeal for PVC on Cast
It's cool to see the old way to do it, but with modern advancements a rubber donut is the way to go. No debate either, faster, much easier, and will last.
I’ll debate😂 I would have used a rubber bushing, but this was after hours and they were unattainable. However, while they may last, I do not think they are easier to install and are at best equal in time if not longer. They are truly a royal pain to install and I pound them as much as the oakum
Why the banded coupler and not a slip coupling?
get a hole saw but that’s bigger then the pipe going in and it drills out the oakum perfectly
i wonder if they still make plastic caulking farrows fittings? I gave op pouring lead joints to avoid lead poisoning from lead fumes and dust. would grind out the remains of that debris in the 4" hub, and use no caulk donut.
Can you use epoxy instead of lead?
you think this is better than the frenco boot? The rubber ring that sits inside the cast iron hub, then you insert the pipe into the rubber set in the hub.
It depends from what perspective you approach better. For ease of installation, the style in the video is way better. For an instant seal, the boot is better no doubt. I will say that if it was during regular hours and I could get the rubber bushing I would have used that.
I've done that , but I used pc4 after the okem .
or put a piece of cast iron pipe in that spot ? good job anyway. i didnt know pvc could handel that type of heat.
Nice job, buddy.I wish you live in new jersey to saint county area
Very interesting. I did not know PVC could be leaded. I thought it would melt.
Always good to see old craftsmanship put to work.
The PVC simply receives a surface burn and softens slightly while the solid lead remains warm. The lead is not molten long enough to melt through the PVC. It also does not have enough head pressure to cause deformation while the plastic is warm and soft. It's similar to the way in which someone can wave their hand over a flame and not get burned. To prevent deformation inside the pipe the joint must cool. Once cool you can then pack the lead.
@@GodwinAndSons well that answered my question also.👍
They make rubber gaskets and you can install a man off or you could have even just used Cast iron pipe ive never seen lead poured on pvc
on the contrary I had this done at my father-in-law's house 6 feet of the cast-iron pipe was rotted out on the seam of the pipe from 40 years of the girls washing their hair upstairs and it settled in the pipe in the basement so I paid a guy $800 and he did that same exact job. I thought it was the washing machine leaking but when I moved it away and took the wall down I could see the main pipe from the upstairs had rotted through in the basement
I’ve seen that happen. For cast iron it’s common that the bottom or seam fails. Compared with copper though cast iron is much more robust. In certain applications, especially where sound management is concerned, cast iron is still preferred over plastic DWV piping
I am going to use an ABS manoff sleeve in a cast iron hub with lead and oakum, way stronger than lead alternatives.
Now ABS I am skeptical of.. that is very soft plastic and easy to catch fire. I’ve seen it belly just from hot water out of a dishwasher.
@@GodwinAndSons like the PVC it does fine, I just finished it and it worked as good as the PVC. Just make sure you wait a few minutes before caulking the joint.
@@jacksplumbingvideos7147 Did you make a video of it?
@@briancrandall1601 no, I finished it and painted it and I am now installing a vinyl floor around it.
I would like to see the pvc pipe after the pour. The end down in the cast iron. That would be interesting. How did you know you could do this???
It has been done for years sir
I will make a video showcasing this in the future!
PVC has a much higher melting point than lead.
This is why it can be done, and why it complies with plumbing code.
Do you have a inside and outside calking irons ?
What kind of lipage was that black rubber piece ?
Nice work
Couldn’t you have used a strong silicone type of sealant instead for creating a seal? Heating led and using it on pipes is hazardous and contaminates water. Is there other alternatives?
Great video. Is there a reason why some kind of caulk couldn't be used in place of the hot lead? Does it have to do with longevity?
How do these joints get done on horizontal connections?
Puzzled why clamp the two plastic pipes together, when gluing with a sleeve with the inner stop filed out would have been cheaper and easier? Last job we did like this we cut off the bells on the cast and because the OD of the plastic is the same as cast, we used the rubber and clamp to joint the plastic to the cast pipe going into the wall, with new plastic cleanout. Still good after 30 years.
The time it takes to file out the inner stop far outweighs the cost of the 4 band clamp. Plus the joint would look terrible as you have glue in areas that it wouldn't need to be. Add the marking and speed to ensure the alignment was good and it isn't worth it. Serviceability in the future is eliminated too. I would also not risk breaking that Cast Iron as I could quickly back myself into a mess. The way I did it allows for a completed repair, but also the ability for that cast iron to be replaced in the future without having to cut anything. Just loosen the clamp and swap it out.
Hi there, I have done this many times. But I noticed you didn't pack the lead.
Good catch! Unfortunately I did that step off camera and it didn't make it in.
Most of the time you're better off getting rid of all the cast iron as far back as you can. In this situation, the labor and time would be prohibitive in going further, through the wall. Soldering pvc isn't my first choice but it is probably the best compromise in this situation. Thank Gawd that no one is installing cast iron in new homes. This primitive technology will one day be gone. Plastic is so much better. Stays smoother inside and is less prone to leakage. I removed a abs drain line that had been in service for 20 years. Looking down the inside it was completely smooth and shiny. Makes clogged drains unlikely. By the way, I have seen cast iron completely rusted through especially in horozontal runs.
The septic will be replaced in the not to distant future so that last bit of cast iron will be done away with. I wouldn’t say cast iron is no longer being installed. It’s still used in commercial applications and also where sound is a concern.
What's the name of the rubber connector? I have a similar problem, and I did try to search for this type of connector, but I couldn't find any. The cast iron pipes in my house are all split open on the top side. They do hold up, but it's not gonna last long. The problem is that the pipe for the septic tank is on a basement ladder that is half exposed, and the other half around 1m underground and it's a hell of a job to replace... For the moment, I've put a smaller pipe inside the iron one because I had to replace around 1m that totally collapsed. It works, but that's not the way to go. The plan is to remove all the iron ones, and expose some of the underground pipe and connect the new plastic one with this type of connector.