We specialize in Nissan and Infinity high performance automatics, valve bodies, torque converters and other heavy duty transmission components! Find Us: www.importperformancetrans.com/ 973.406.7000 Instagram - @IPTperformancetransmission Facebook - Import Performance Transmissions
Do you have any videos doing the 4eat out of an h6 outback it has the filter lines that lead to the trans filter instead of direct spin on thanks and great videos!!!!!
Hi, I've been working on a 2005 Outback I picked up relatively cheap but have done a lot of work to. The head gaskets were out of it and now that I have that fixed (as well as cv axles, wheel bearings, struts, sway bar links, ball joints, etc) it appears the front pinion carrier bearings are bad,, noisy and causing vibration. Can I fix this in the car? I've been trying to find a video on it but haven't had any luck so far.
Your awsome watched all your subaru video's and im gonna give it a shot. My issue is im looking at atsg for a book but im seeing 88-98 then jumps to 04-up and i have a 02. Any imput on witch Manuel to pick up?
Do you know what would cause the stator to gouge the bushing like that? I have a 04 fxt with a failed front diff (broken teeth) and cant find a replacement trans so was going to buy 38100ab420 (ring and pinion gear) but dont want it to fail again because of something i didnt look at close enough.
I exploded the front diff on my '04 FXT by doing boost brake launches. It cracked the bellhousing all the way around it, to the point I was able to remove the transmission without removing a single bellhousing bolt! I think the front diff was already on its way out though as it was already making noise before that. Any idea how much power a healthy '04 Forester XT 4EAT can handle if you don't do dumb stuff like boost brake launches? Im hoping for around 350whp in the near future, _maybe_ 400whp...
@@iptperformancetrans OK thanks. Is that 325 wheel or crank hp? Is it worth getting a higher stall converter at that power level, or will that just exacerbate the problem of breaking an unmodified 4EAT?
UPDATE - No more torque binding on my fozzie after another drain and fill on diff and trans fluids, also got a new set of tires and a perfect alignment. Can't say what exactly fixed the issue but maybe this can help someone else out there who is also dealing with mild torque binding. Do you know if having a little vibration when turning very tight at slow speeds on cement is more or less "normal" for the 4EAT in Subarus? I've had a hell of a time trying to figure out if it should be serviced for that issue or not. Subaru techs have said it's normal, lots of people online say not to worry about, others say get it looked at, some people say just replace the clutch packs, solenoid or valve body. But not really any clear answers from anyone, even techs and mechanics haha I assume part of that is also based on severity of the vibration/jumping in those certain cornering conditions and if it's accompanied by other symptoms. My forester has a little vibration when doing very sharp tight cornering at very slow speeds on pavement/asphalt/cement. All fluids are at correct levels and fresh and no signs of any metal debris so far. I'd love to know your opinion on this or if there are other symptoms I should look out for if something was on its way to a failure or more serious issue. I don't have any local transmission experts in the area I live and most techs/mechanics just say "oh don't turn full lock at low speeds on dry pavement" or something along those lines lol Sure, maybe it isn't anything serious (yet) but I still have a nagging curiosity of this issue my car has and whether or not it should be serviced and what it should be serviced for if anything. Thank you in advance if you happen to read this :) Great video as always dude!
i had some vibration at slower speeds like you described only when turning tight corners. Make sure the gear oil in your differentials(Someone said it was torque bind not sure if that is what it is called) have been serviced that fixed mine up but there are many other things that can cause that.
@@b469b Yeah it's torque binding happening in mine I'm pretty sure. We're your dif oils and trans fluids low? Or just old when you had the issue? In mine the gear oil in both differentials looks great and at the proper levels, transmission fluid is good as well, however I'll be getting all of the fluids drained and filled again soon and I'll update the post if that solves or helps anything. But I really wonder if it will need further more in depth servicing or not, so far nobody in my area has a clue what to suggest besides "it's normal", "don't turn at full lock" or "live with it" but no clear answers from anyone even after inspections lmao but the nagging feeling is "well something is clearly not feeling 100% in the vehicle because I've been in these same vehicles without torque binding"
@@gchabot1345 For me it fixed the problem with just the fluid changes(Diffs and trans). lucas fluid is compatible with the transmission(4eat) just as dextron 3 can technically be used instead of the subaru hp red fluid it says so in the manual(I still use oem). If it gets real bad or too expensive i would give that a shot. I might also recommend drop pan and replace the filter and put the old fluid back in but replace 1 qt with lucas.
I already had this problem in a Subaru that I bought a while ago that had been sitting for a long time, it always did this exactly as you said, I used an additive and after a trip with the additive it worked well in the gearbox, the problem never appeared again. Lubegard red 60902
I have an 04 Forester 2.5X with 194k miles on it and a (I believe) 4eat tz1a2. Each solenoid is bolted in individually instead of a bracket. It clunks from 1 to 2, revs really high between 2 and 3, then 3 to 4 is fine. There was some flaky bits in the oil pan but no big chunks. I replaced the oil about 8k ago and this started a couple 100 miles ago. It still had the pink silicone on the pan. I’m replacing solenoids and filter. I’m thinking about dropping the valve body and cleaning it but don’t know if that’s worth it. Should I be concerned about the health of the trans or not?
I’d be concerned ‘Cleaning’ a valve body isn’t a legitimate repair- if it need to ‘be cleaned’, what do you think is making it ‘dirty’? The answer is that if you have to clean a valve body, the transmission is failing and generating debris.
@@iptperformancetrans How soon can I expect it to blow up? And can I put the 4eat with the solenoids that are held in with the one bracket or do I have to get the exact same one?
We specialize in Nissan and Infinity high performance automatics, valve bodies, torque converters and other heavy duty transmission components!
Find Us:
www.importperformancetrans.com/
973.406.7000
Instagram - @IPTperformancetransmission
Facebook - Import Performance Transmissions
Great video, a friend just told about your company, can't wait to send in my transmission to get upgrade.
Do you have any videos doing the 4eat out of an h6 outback it has the filter lines that lead to the trans filter instead of direct spin on thanks and great videos!!!!!
@@CircleCityExplorer What year is it?
Most 02-04 h6 subarus have them need to do one with the vdc planetary on the end
@@iptperformancetrans2001 Outback ll bean h6 4eat
@@SarpyTurt Don’t know that exists but it’s relatively self explanatory
Hi, I've been working on a 2005 Outback I picked up relatively cheap but have done a lot of work to. The head gaskets were out of it and now that I have that fixed (as well as cv axles, wheel bearings, struts, sway bar links, ball joints, etc) it appears the front pinion carrier bearings are bad,, noisy and causing vibration. Can I fix this in the car? I've been trying to find a video on it but haven't had any luck so far.
@@24revealer It can’t be fixed in the car but there is a Subaru differential video coming very soon please subscribe and stay tuned.
@@iptperformancetrans Great!
Great, can you make it on VTD Phase2 Version1?
Possibly, next time I’m working on one.
@@iptperformancetrans Thank you.
Your awsome watched all your subaru video's and im gonna give it a shot. My issue is im looking at atsg for a book but im seeing 88-98 then jumps to 04-up and i have a 02. Any imput on witch Manuel to pick up?
@@Kyle-hz9kf Get the later manual but your valve body may not be illustrated in there
Do you know what would cause the stator to gouge the bushing like that? I have a 04 fxt with a failed front diff (broken teeth) and cant find a replacement trans so was going to buy 38100ab420 (ring and pinion gear) but dont want it to fail again because of something i didnt look at close enough.
Do you handle Mercedes 722.9 repairs and rebuilds? I'm nearby in nnj let me know if we can colab on a video.
@@CL500MBZ Sure
Contact me (our info is in the description and 1st pinned comment)
I exploded the front diff on my '04 FXT by doing boost brake launches. It cracked the bellhousing all the way around it, to the point I was able to remove the transmission without removing a single bellhousing bolt! I think the front diff was already on its way out though as it was already making noise before that. Any idea how much power a healthy '04 Forester XT 4EAT can handle if you don't do dumb stuff like boost brake launches? Im hoping for around 350whp in the near future, _maybe_ 400whp...
@@bluegizmo1983 They typically won’t handle much over 325 hp without being upgraded
@@iptperformancetrans OK thanks. Is that 325 wheel or crank hp? Is it worth getting a higher stall converter at that power level, or will that just exacerbate the problem of breaking an unmodified 4EAT?
UPDATE - No more torque binding on my fozzie after another drain and fill on diff and trans fluids, also got a new set of tires and a perfect alignment. Can't say what exactly fixed the issue but maybe this can help someone else out there who is also dealing with mild torque binding.
Do you know if having a little vibration when turning very tight at slow speeds on cement is more or less "normal" for the 4EAT in Subarus? I've had a hell of a time trying to figure out if it should be serviced for that issue or not. Subaru techs have said it's normal, lots of people online say not to worry about, others say get it looked at, some people say just replace the clutch packs, solenoid or valve body. But not really any clear answers from anyone, even techs and mechanics haha
I assume part of that is also based on severity of the vibration/jumping in those certain cornering conditions and if it's accompanied by other symptoms.
My forester has a little vibration when doing very sharp tight cornering at very slow speeds on pavement/asphalt/cement. All fluids are at correct levels and fresh and no signs of any metal debris so far.
I'd love to know your opinion on this or if there are other symptoms I should look out for if something was on its way to a failure or more serious issue. I don't have any local transmission experts in the area I live and most techs/mechanics just say "oh don't turn full lock at low speeds on dry pavement" or something along those lines lol
Sure, maybe it isn't anything serious (yet) but I still have a nagging curiosity of this issue my car has and whether or not it should be serviced and what it should be serviced for if anything.
Thank you in advance if you happen to read this :) Great video as always dude!
i had some vibration at slower speeds like you described only when turning tight corners. Make sure the gear oil in your differentials(Someone said it was torque bind not sure if that is what it is called) have been serviced that fixed mine up but there are many other things that can cause that.
@@b469b Yeah it's torque binding happening in mine I'm pretty sure. We're your dif oils and trans fluids low? Or just old when you had the issue?
In mine the gear oil in both differentials looks great and at the proper levels, transmission fluid is good as well, however I'll be getting all of the fluids drained and filled again soon and I'll update the post if that solves or helps anything.
But I really wonder if it will need further more in depth servicing or not, so far nobody in my area has a clue what to suggest besides "it's normal", "don't turn at full lock" or "live with it" but no clear answers from anyone even after inspections lmao but the nagging feeling is "well something is clearly not feeling 100% in the vehicle because I've been in these same vehicles without torque binding"
@@gchabot1345 For me it fixed the problem with just the fluid changes(Diffs and trans). lucas fluid is compatible with the transmission(4eat) just as dextron 3 can technically be used instead of the subaru hp red fluid it says so in the manual(I still use oem). If it gets real bad or too expensive i would give that a shot. I might also recommend drop pan and replace the filter and put the old fluid back in but replace 1 qt with lucas.
@@b469b Good information, thank you! I'll see how fluid and filter changes affect the torque binding.
I already had this problem in a Subaru that I bought a while ago that had been sitting for a long time, it always did this exactly as you said, I used an additive and after a trip with the additive it worked well in the gearbox, the problem never appeared again.
Lubegard red 60902
I have an 04 Forester 2.5X with 194k miles on it and a (I believe) 4eat tz1a2. Each solenoid is bolted in individually instead of a bracket. It clunks from 1 to 2, revs really high between 2 and 3, then 3 to 4 is fine. There was some flaky bits in the oil pan but no big chunks. I replaced the oil about 8k ago and this started a couple 100 miles ago. It still had the pink silicone on the pan. I’m replacing solenoids and filter. I’m thinking about dropping the valve body and cleaning it but don’t know if that’s worth it. Should I be concerned about the health of the trans or not?
I’d be concerned
‘Cleaning’ a valve body isn’t a legitimate repair- if it need to ‘be cleaned’, what do you think is making it ‘dirty’?
The answer is that if you have to clean a valve body, the transmission is failing and generating debris.
@@iptperformancetrans How soon can I expect it to blow up? And can I put the 4eat with the solenoids that are held in with the one bracket or do I have to get the exact same one?
@@joshclasing6287 1) No idea, I’m a transmission guy, not a clairvoyant
As far as swapping transmissions- exact tag # for exact tag # only
"A steaming pile" lol