Unfortunately I didn't see that I had accidentally flipped tile #7 until I was editing the video. I guess that will be the handle side what it gets turned into a blade. 😉 Any questions about this pattern or about mosaics?
@Tyrell Knifeworks no questions on my end, but I do have a suggestion, and it's applicable to every damascus builet..if you have a surface grinder, you can surface the top and bottom, before cutting..it's saves a huge amount of time, and makes it easier to tile or restack your builet (you don't need to grind each side of a bunch of small, difficult to handle, tiles)
@@jamesafseth326 I answered a similar question on another comment. I find each piece cuts on a very slightly different angle on the bandsaw so if you grind each one separately you get a better fit. I've done it both ways and I find my way works better for me. It's not much different time-wise as those grind are really quick.
@@pr0faker this was 5 forging sessions of 1-2 hours plus cooling time between each. Then you have the grinding and prep work. It’s probably around 20 hours of labor to get what you see at the end. As for steel loss, you should count about 5-10% of each restack loss due to scale and cutoffs. The end billet is around 15-25% less steel than what you started with. This will vary depending on the pattern. Twist is much more lossy than other patterns because of the amount of grinding. Complex mosaics require a lot more restacks so you lose a lot from cutoffs. Make sense?
Very cool outcome. Simple but so nice looking. The distortion adds a lot of detail to the basket weave look. Without it that would not look half as good. SuppaDope!!
Simple, I guess in comparison to some other patterned steel processes, but clearly there's a lot of detail which must be attended to, and clearly you have to have a plan before you start out. Thanks for sharing!
There were a lot of general info on mosaics in this video that is applicable to all of them. This pattern is a pretty easy one to achieve once you get the basics of forge welding down. I think its a great first pattern to do when you start mosaics. (but you'll be diving right into explosion in Jan! 😉). Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the upload really interesting pattern. You explain things really well. I knew you should cut the last billet at an angle but did not know why until today, so thank you.
@@TyrellKnifeworks be a blacksmith is my dream of the young me, i made some knife in my garden when i was 20yo, even a very small damas knife (car shock absorber steel, file steel and concrete iron, that worked ^^) but the life is the life and now i have a common job, but i love watch talented blacksmith like you, you make the knife i dream to make. So, good work, continue to make beautiful knife, and make me dream.
The tip about rectangling the billet, before tiling, was an eye opener! I hadn't thought about that before.Thanks so much for the education, my brother!
This was really interesting to me because for the first time I learned what "normalizing" means - to let the composition become more uniform with respect to carbon, throughout the steel. I'm a geologist, and when I talk to my students about metamorphic rocks, I discuss the fact that at high temperatures, ions can migrate through solid rock. I guess the same thing is happening here. Maybe I'll have to assign this video to my students! And by the way, I love the basketweave pattern. Relatively simple to make, but breathtakingly beautiful.
I'm no metalurgist but the normalization process is really to dissolve all the carbides in the steel so that they can be used and reformed during the quenching process. The layman term would be to dissolve the carbon across the steel though. Dr. Larrin Thomas' book Knife Engineering is now the defacto standard reading for most knife makers and has all this info, but certainly feel free to use this video. 😜. You might find my video on Heat Treating (in my Beginner Series playlist) more informative on the subject (but not too sciency) as well. Thanks for watching, Greg!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for the explanations. So many forging videos just show the same thing over and over again, but you explain and teach. IMO that adds a lot of interest and value to your videos.
@@TyrellKnifeworks should be here end of the month, beginning of December. First project is doing a run San Mai billets, just to get a feel for the machine. First full blown project is a twenty piece set of knives for a client. Twist damascus over 416 stainless with a 1095 core, brass bolsters and desert Ironwood hilts.
Makes me glad I got the multiprocessor welder. Being capable of all 3 processes allows some specialization such as you demonstrated with surface welding or tacking pieces together without deep penetration. I love the pattern distortion on this. Aka organized chaos. Very appealing. 👍🤝
Outstanding as usual Denis! Thank you. BTW I think it was your #8 that got flipped since it was only the spot between 7 and 8 that duplicated the adjacent pattern. Not criticizing at all but it makes sense that the #8 looks the same upside down! I'm definitely going to try Mosaic soon -- working up the nerve to try it
No, watch the video in slow motion. You will see the weaves duplicated on both sides of 7. Plus “8” is an end piece, it looks different on the other side and couldn’t be flipped without noticing it. Thanks for watching.
Typically about 1-2 hours, then you need to let it cool so you can handle it, another 1-2 hours. Then cutting/grinding (another 1-2 hours). So in total this pattern is around 20 hours to make. Thanks for watching.
Is there any efficiency curve based on the size of the billet? E.g. Taking into account that a larger billet takes more gas to heat, but loses less to scale and saves time as there is more pattern steel at the end, is there a specific amount of steel that would minimize total costs?
I don't think so. Big billets take longer to heat up, hence more gas, so its a trade off. I usually just start with enough steel to have 25% more final billet than I need. Thanks for watching, Diego.
very cool...nice little "mosaic tuition video" Denis, its a really good pattern to use to see how to build up the layers and cubes ...fascinated to see what material you use for a handle and what pins too. Is it worth putting plain knife steel in for the handle to save on damascus or do most people want the damascus to carry through into the handle.
I always love and appreciate how you work us through what is happening through the process to get to the final result. Keep up the great work. You're my favorite knife maker channel
Don’t you think to add some metal sand at the end of the forging proccess to make a better connection of each piece of the steel? If you see what i mean.
Where did you get your rolling mill? Everything I can find when searching for them seems to be small ones more geared for jewelry. I see you using it in almost all your videos and it seems to be very useful for hitting a consistent thickness.
A guy in Oklahoma makes them, David Barfield. He doesn't do social media or email but if you want his number, send me an email. That rolling mill was $1800 plus shipping. Thanks for watching.
Wouldn’t flat grinding the sides of the final billet before tiling it safe a ton of time, rather than individually grinding each small tile on two sides?
@@TyrellKnifeworks What grit do you grind the touching sides to when you tile them together? Do you find that a course grit is better than a fine grits or vice versa?
11 місяців тому
Could I use stainless steel for the final forge weld cap for the bottom and top
I’m not quite sure what you mean. You want to layer this with stainless and use it as the core?
11 місяців тому
@TyrellKnifeworks after I cut the piece at a 45° angle and stack them flat so the pattern is facing up can I use stainless steel for top and bottom to forge weld them back together or should I use mild steel (sheet metal) to encase
Oh, I see what you mean. As long as you can weld them together fine with the stainless steel, that would work well.
10 місяців тому
Thanks and it worked just did not start with enough steel there is a lot of loss
10 місяців тому
I now have the basic idea and can go from there. Your videos are awesome have built the surface grinder attachment, knife sharpening jig, straighting jig, and tri axsis sanding jig they all work great 👍🏻
Nice job now i have to save my pennies to buy a press jest made my last payment on my brodbeck that means my hole shop is paid for press next thanks Dennis for the vids
Haha... yeah a bit longer in reality. It depends but usually about 1-2 hours, but then you're letting the billet cool so you can cut/grind/handle it and that takes a few hours. You can get two forging sessions in a day, 3 is you're lucky and/or it's a long day. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks it's never been done before as far as I know. I'm thinking more like those illusions that seem to move as you shake the picture if that makes sense
It really depends on the particular pattern. Some are more lossy than others. This one is pretty good though. Twist is a pretty bad one because you end up grinding a lot off the billet. If using a press, I account for about 5-10% loss due to scale, 5-10% from end cuts. Gauging a 15-25% loss in most of these patterns is a good guess. Thanks for watching, Hubert.
Just out of curiosity, let's say hypothetically, you don't have a welder. How would you go about forge welding the tiles together? Or is that something you wouldn't even attempt?
I personally wouldn’t recommend it. You can pickup a welder for under $200, there’s no point screwing around with hose clamps or wire. Welding is one of the skills every Bladesmith should learn early. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us and I hope that when I get my press fully built that I am able to make these patterns and make them look almost as good as the ones that you make
The rolling mill is made in Oklahoma. The guy doesn’t do email or social media but if you email me I can give you his number. Tyrellknifeworks @ gmail. Thx.
You need to distort it before you time is so it’s about a 3:2 ratio. Then when you slice it on an angle it will be back to square. The actual size doesn’t matter, just the proportions do. Thanks for watching.
Dennis, can you help me? I am wanting a billet forged to thickness. I do not have power equipment and this task would be difficult by hand. I am looking to trade for work performed. I have 1in square wrought iron for your time. The billet i am wanting is only a San mi with a wrought iron spine. Please help. Cheers, Martin
I am so in love with the snake in the sword pattern, and the wolfs tooth is another fascinating pattern. But yea i have sticks like 5ft long on the Wrought Iron anyway. I look forward to a conversation perhaps, Anyway Cheers and Blessings from me and Mine to you and yours. M
This is going to sound unrelated, but those patterns are one of the common patterns people see when they hallucinate on psychedelics. Repeating patterns and fractals. It's interesting that our brains can create patterns like that, and how those patterns can be found in nature, or through techniques like here. Especially considering that fractals can be created through graphs of mathematical equations, and that those fractals look the same as those the brain creates on psychedelics.
Wouldn't it have been better to surface grind 2 faces of the bar before you cut the tiles? That way you can hopefully save time and not deal with little pieces.
You can do it that way too. I've just noticed that you get slight variations in angles with the band saw cuts (at least with mine) that you fix by using the angle'd rest and grinding the edges. They always seem to fit better when I do each piece separately. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks good to know, sort of weird that happens. I was watching a video from some Russian guy who surface ground the two surfaces, but also the flats before forge welding. You may get a nicer pattern, but it's probably not worth it half the time anyways.
@@SiliconeSword Whatever works for each person. He might have a more accurate bandsaw that I do, mine's a cheap one but it gets the job done. If I wanted to tig the billet together I certainly would have surface ground the sides so I had clean steel. I just find its quicker overall to just mig it.
Twisting this would just produce sone weird twist, you’d lose the pattern completely. Twisting any pattern really just shows a twist only unless you just twist it a few times. Thanks for watching, Andrew.
can you make me some kitchen knife for my wife? i want to have kitchen knife with damascus patern,at least i can buy it with inexpensive price for it...
not gonna lie, a lot of the patterns on the more complicated Damascus is rather cluttered looking and never pops as much as the simpler stuff imo. I def can appreciate the skill in making them tho!
Unfortunately I didn't see that I had accidentally flipped tile #7 until I was editing the video. I guess that will be the handle side what it gets turned into a blade. 😉 Any questions about this pattern or about mosaics?
@Tyrell Knifeworks no questions on my end, but I do have a suggestion, and it's applicable to every damascus builet..if you have a surface grinder, you can surface the top and bottom, before cutting..it's saves a huge amount of time, and makes it easier to tile or restack your builet (you don't need to grind each side of a bunch of small, difficult to handle, tiles)
@@jamesafseth326 I answered a similar question on another comment. I find each piece cuts on a very slightly different angle on the bandsaw so if you grind each one separately you get a better fit. I've done it both ways and I find my way works better for me. It's not much different time-wise as those grind are really quick.
How long did it take in terms of time to get to a workable blank, also how much steel do you lose making something like this due to scale and forging?
@@pr0faker this was 5 forging sessions of 1-2 hours plus cooling time between each. Then you have the grinding and prep work. It’s probably around 20 hours of labor to get what you see at the end. As for steel loss, you should count about 5-10% of each restack loss due to scale and cutoffs. The end billet is around 15-25% less steel than what you started with. This will vary depending on the pattern. Twist is much more lossy than other patterns because of the amount of grinding. Complex mosaics require a lot more restacks so you lose a lot from cutoffs. Make sense?
@@TyrellKnifeworks yeah thanks gives a better understanding in the proces.
Hermoso patrón !
Saludis desde la Patagonia Argentina !!
¡Gracias por mirar, Omar!
Very cool outcome. Simple but so nice looking. The distortion adds a lot of detail to the basket weave look. Without it that would not look half as good. SuppaDope!!
Thanks for checking out this one. I like it a lot.
That is a really great looking pattern. It's not IF you screw up, it's how you recover that matters.
So true! It's all about problem solving. Thanks for watching.
Oh I love this mosaic, it looks like kind of optical illusion.
I’m pretty partial to it myself! 😜. Thanks for watching
I need to watch this one a couple times- alot of good info. Im happy you discussed distortion, you manage it well. Very nice work- thanks Denis.
I'm glad you got something out of this one. Thanks for watching, Lanny!
The pattern turned out great. I like that you show mistakes. l know that i learn far better from my mistakes than my failures.
Success
Yup, success is a terrible teacher. 😉. Thanks for watching.
Your Damascus crafting technique is amazing, I will learn a lot from you, thanks for sharing!
I’m glad you liked this one. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks Sure, hope you make more damascus tutorial videos
@@Arts-and-Crafts there are certainly at least 2-4 left in the series. 👍
That's a beautiful pattern!
Thanks for checking it out, Isaac!
gotta say, the way the flame swirl inside your forge is beautiful, thanks for another interesting Triple T video
Thanks for checking out this video. The forge build video is available as well if you want to check that out. Thanks for watching.
That pattern is amazing. Man you do amazing work
Thanks so much, Tony! I appreciate that.
This is a great series!
I'm glad it's entertaining and educational. Thanks for watching, Allen.
Very nice! I really enjoy your content, keep it up.
Thanks for taking a look!
Thanks!
Thank you!!!
Another great video Denis. Thanks you.
Thanks brother! I’m looking forward to yours next week!
Triple T baby!!!
Thanks for following along, Sean!
WOW, Magnificent Looking !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for following along, Jerry!
Simple, I guess in comparison to some other patterned steel processes, but clearly there's a lot of detail which must be attended to, and clearly you have to have a plan before you start out. Thanks for sharing!
There were a lot of general info on mosaics in this video that is applicable to all of them. This pattern is a pretty easy one to achieve once you get the basics of forge welding down. I think its a great first pattern to do when you start mosaics. (but you'll be diving right into explosion in Jan! 😉). Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the upload really interesting pattern. You explain things really well. I knew you should cut the last billet at an angle but did not know why until today, so thank you.
I'm happy there was some good info in this one. Thanks for taking a look.
Great looking pattern even with the oops! Another video filled with great information. Thanks again Dennis!
Thanks, this is a simple but pretty cool pattern I think.
never see these mosaic before. Excelent work. Looks amazing
Thanks for watching!
Extremely cool pattern Dennis. Love watching your videos
Thanks for following along, Scott!
your mozaic pattern is crazy !!!! you are so talented ! wooow !!!!
Thanks for checking it out, Al!
@@TyrellKnifeworks be a blacksmith is my dream of the young me, i made some knife in my garden when i was 20yo, even a very small damas knife (car shock absorber steel, file steel and concrete iron, that worked ^^) but the life is the life and now i have a common job, but i love watch talented blacksmith like you, you make the knife i dream to make. So, good work, continue to make beautiful knife, and make me dream.
The tip about rectangling the billet, before tiling, was an eye opener! I hadn't thought about that before.Thanks so much for the education, my brother!
Glad you learned something, thanks for watching, Bob!
great pattern
Thanks for watching!
Beautiful
Thanks for taking a look, Naeem!
Che serie spettacolare questa!si impara sempre qualcosa💪😁
Grazie per aver seguito!
This was really interesting to me because for the first time I learned what "normalizing" means - to let the composition become more uniform with respect to carbon, throughout the steel. I'm a geologist, and when I talk to my students about metamorphic rocks, I discuss the fact that at high temperatures, ions can migrate through solid rock. I guess the same thing is happening here. Maybe I'll have to assign this video to my students!
And by the way, I love the basketweave pattern. Relatively simple to make, but breathtakingly beautiful.
I'm no metalurgist but the normalization process is really to dissolve all the carbides in the steel so that they can be used and reformed during the quenching process. The layman term would be to dissolve the carbon across the steel though. Dr. Larrin Thomas' book Knife Engineering is now the defacto standard reading for most knife makers and has all this info, but certainly feel free to use this video. 😜. You might find my video on Heat Treating (in my Beginner Series playlist) more informative on the subject (but not too sciency) as well. Thanks for watching, Greg!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for the explanations. So many forging videos just show the same thing over and over again, but you explain and teach. IMO that adds a lot of interest and value to your videos.
Living this series Denis! Great brush up and some good insights in prep for when my press arrives!
When does the press show up? What’s the first thing you’re gonna make?
@@TyrellKnifeworks should be here end of the month, beginning of December. First project is doing a run San Mai billets, just to get a feel for the machine. First full blown project is a twenty piece set of knives for a client. Twist damascus over 416 stainless with a 1095 core, brass bolsters and desert Ironwood hilts.
@@bjornronaldson6017 sounds like a complicated project. Good luck!
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you! It should be fun.
That's a beautiful pattern!
Nice work😀😀
Svara
Thanks for checking it out!
very nice Buddy 👍🏼 from Germany
Thanks for checking it out, Phil!
Awesome video and great info!
Thanks for checking it out!
Very beautiful! One of my favorite designs so far :)
They’ll get progressively more complicated and impressive now I think. 😜. Thanks for watching.
Nicely done
Thanks for taking a look!
This forged steel candymaking is ridiculously cool.
Still some more cool patterns to come!
Makes me glad I got the multiprocessor welder. Being capable of all 3 processes allows some specialization such as you demonstrated with surface welding or tacking pieces together without deep penetration. I love the pattern distortion on this. Aka organized chaos. Very appealing. 👍🤝
It’s very convenient to have both mig and tig for sure. Thanks for watching, Mel.
Excelente máster saludos desde Argentina
¡Gracias por mirar, Roberto!
Thanks for the great video👍👍
Thanks for watching, Joe!
excellent instructions! thanks!
Thanks for watching, Ron!
Wow 👌 that's amazing how you did it 👏 nice job Tyrell
Thanks for checking it out, Guillermo!
Excellent.
Thanks for checking it out, Chris!
Excellent content. I have to try making some mosaic at some point.
I think this is a great starter mosaic that comes out looking pretty cool. Thanks for watching.
That's really cool.
Thanks for checking it out, Sam!
Would love a Tyrrell knife
Join my patreon, members get first crack at my builds. Thanks for watching.
Outstanding as usual Denis! Thank you. BTW I think it was your #8 that got flipped since it was only the spot between 7 and 8 that duplicated the adjacent pattern. Not criticizing at all but it makes sense that the #8 looks the same upside down! I'm definitely going to try Mosaic soon -- working up the nerve to try it
No, watch the video in slow motion. You will see the weaves duplicated on both sides of 7. Plus “8” is an end piece, it looks different on the other side and couldn’t be flipped without noticing it. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Ahh you're right!
You said it was about 4-5 forging sessions, but roughly how long was each forging sessions? This was beautiful! Thanks
Typically about 1-2 hours, then you need to let it cool so you can handle it, another 1-2 hours. Then cutting/grinding (another 1-2 hours). So in total this pattern is around 20 hours to make. Thanks for watching.
Is there any efficiency curve based on the size of the billet? E.g. Taking into account that a larger billet takes more gas to heat, but loses less to scale and saves time as there is more pattern steel at the end, is there a specific amount of steel that would minimize total costs?
I don't think so. Big billets take longer to heat up, hence more gas, so its a trade off. I usually just start with enough steel to have 25% more final billet than I need. Thanks for watching, Diego.
very cool...nice little "mosaic tuition video" Denis, its a really good pattern to use to see how to build up the layers and cubes ...fascinated to see what material you use for a handle and what pins too.
Is it worth putting plain knife steel in for the handle to save on damascus or do most people want the damascus to carry through into the handle.
I won’t be doing a knife with this one for a bit though. Too many projects on the go! 😜. Thanks for watching.
I always love and appreciate how you work us through what is happening through the process to get to the final result. Keep up the great work. You're my favorite knife maker channel
Thanks so much, Matthew! This has been a fun series.
really cool
Thanks for taking a look!
Would you try Forge welding with the rolling mill? I bet it's possible and I'd really like to see even in just a UA-cam short
Sure it’s possible. You’d need to make sure the welds are perpendicular and on the same plane as the rolling direction.
Thanks for watching, Patrick.
Don’t you think to add some metal sand at the end of the forging proccess to make a better connection of each piece of the steel? If you see what i mean.
There's no need for any of that. Once it's forge welded properly, it's one solid piece of steel. Thanks for watching.
wonderful
Thanks so much! I appreciate you checking it out
Where did you get your rolling mill? Everything I can find when searching for them seems to be small ones more geared for jewelry. I see you using it in almost all your videos and it seems to be very useful for hitting a consistent thickness.
A guy in Oklahoma makes them, David Barfield. He doesn't do social media or email but if you want his number, send me an email. That rolling mill was $1800 plus shipping. Thanks for watching.
IT'S THURSDAY!!!
Yup, all day! 😜. Thanks for watching, Cody!
Wouldn’t flat grinding the sides of the final billet before tiling it safe a ton of time, rather than individually grinding each small tile on two sides?
The issue is that the bandsaw doesn’t make perfect cuts and you’ll still need to grind the touching sides anyway. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks What grit do you grind the touching sides to when you tile them together? Do you find that a course grit is better than a fine grits or vice versa?
Could I use stainless steel for the final forge weld cap for the bottom and top
I’m not quite sure what you mean. You want to layer this with stainless and use it as the core?
@TyrellKnifeworks after I cut the piece at a 45° angle and stack them flat so the pattern is facing up can I use stainless steel for top and bottom to forge weld them back together or should I use mild steel (sheet metal) to encase
Oh, I see what you mean. As long as you can weld them together fine with the stainless steel, that would work well.
Thanks and it worked just did not start with enough steel there is a lot of loss
I now have the basic idea and can go from there. Your videos are awesome have built the surface grinder attachment, knife sharpening jig, straighting jig, and tri axsis sanding jig they all work great 👍🏻
Nice job now i have to save my pennies to buy a press jest made my last payment on my brodbeck that means my hole shop is paid for press next thanks Dennis for the vids
I’d strongly suggest building the press. I can help you.
@@TyrellKnifeworks that’s my plan I live in mass 29 today summer time a small shed and a press thanks barry
Triple T
Tini tini tini
Thanks for watching
Cantik sekali motif nya baja Damaskus yang master buat
Terima kasih banyak! Saya menghargai Anda menonton.
@@TyrellKnifeworks sama sama master
So about how long is a forging session? I think on UA-cam it's about 1 minute.
Haha... yeah a bit longer in reality. It depends but usually about 1-2 hours, but then you're letting the billet cool so you can cut/grind/handle it and that takes a few hours. You can get two forging sessions in a day, 3 is you're lucky and/or it's a long day. Thanks for watching.
It has that optical illusion of moving when you move the picture around. You should try an optical illusion Damascus blade
That would be interesting actually. One of those, its a rabbit or its a woman pictures.. 😜.
@@TyrellKnifeworks it's never been done before as far as I know. I'm thinking more like those illusions that seem to move as you shake the picture if that makes sense
@@SHIEET817 Yes, I know exactly what you mean. It's an interesting concept.
I wonder how much of the initial amount of steel is lost during the entire process of making a knife.
It really depends on the particular pattern. Some are more lossy than others. This one is pretty good though. Twist is a pretty bad one because you end up grinding a lot off the billet. If using a press, I account for about 5-10% loss due to scale, 5-10% from end cuts. Gauging a 15-25% loss in most of these patterns is a good guess. Thanks for watching, Hubert.
Just out of curiosity, let's say hypothetically, you don't have a welder. How would you go about forge welding the tiles together? Or is that something you wouldn't even attempt?
I personally wouldn’t recommend it. You can pickup a welder for under $200, there’s no point screwing around with hose clamps or wire. Welding is one of the skills every Bladesmith should learn early. Thanks for watching.
Muito bom!!
Obrigado por dar uma olhada!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us and I hope that when I get my press fully built that I am able to make these patterns and make them look almost as good as the ones that you make
Start with the basic patterns and work up to these mosaics. It's a journey, but a fun one! Thanks for watching, Riecke.
Where did you get your roller press
The rolling mill is made in Oklahoma. The guy doesn’t do email or social media but if you email me I can give you his number. Tyrellknifeworks @ gmail. Thx.
what are the dimensions before tileing?
You need to distort it before you time is so it’s about a 3:2 ratio. Then when you slice it on an angle it will be back to square. The actual size doesn’t matter, just the proportions do. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks man! Love the channel!!
Dennis, can you help me? I am wanting a billet forged to thickness. I do not have power equipment and this task would be difficult by hand. I am looking to trade for work performed. I have 1in square wrought iron for your time. The billet i am wanting is only a San mi with a wrought iron spine. Please help. Cheers, Martin
I don’t typically do this kind of thing unless it’s for a patron. Consider joining and I’ll think about it. Thanks for watching
I will see3 if it is something i can aquire . Thank you for the prompt reply. Cheers Martin
I am so in love with the snake in the sword pattern, and the wolfs tooth is another fascinating pattern. But yea i have sticks like 5ft long on the Wrought Iron anyway. I look forward to a conversation perhaps, Anyway Cheers and Blessings from me and Mine to you and yours. M
Can you try to make the Burmese dha from Southeast Asia but if possible using Damascus?pls. 🥺
Sorry, I don't really do replicas unless they are historic. Thanks for watching.
Oh ok
Can you try to do the Burmese dha a historical weapon of Southeast Asia
This is going to sound unrelated, but those patterns are one of the common patterns people see when they hallucinate on psychedelics. Repeating patterns and fractals. It's interesting that our brains can create patterns like that, and how those patterns can be found in nature, or through techniques like here.
Especially considering that fractals can be created through graphs of mathematical equations, and that those fractals look the same as those the brain creates on psychedelics.
Yes, fractals are very common in nature. Look at romanesco broccoli as a perfect example. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks they're SO cool! Beautiful pattern in the Damascus, btw!
Muito bom ! Obrigado.
Obrigado por dar uma olhada!
I checked the website and they have everything but hydraulic presses 😢
Yeah, they recently had to drop their supplier for hydraulic presses unfortunately. (I recorded that clip a while ago). Thanks for watching.
I’ve never seen that pattern before
Stay tuned, I’ll be turning this one into a takedown Bowie in the next build video. 👍. Thanks for watching.
Wouldn't it have been better to surface grind 2 faces of the bar before you cut the tiles? That way you can hopefully save time and not deal with little pieces.
You can do it that way too. I've just noticed that you get slight variations in angles with the band saw cuts (at least with mine) that you fix by using the angle'd rest and grinding the edges. They always seem to fit better when I do each piece separately. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks good to know, sort of weird that happens. I was watching a video from some Russian guy who surface ground the two surfaces, but also the flats before forge welding. You may get a nicer pattern, but it's probably not worth it half the time anyways.
@@SiliconeSword Whatever works for each person. He might have a more accurate bandsaw that I do, mine's a cheap one but it gets the job done. If I wanted to tig the billet together I certainly would have surface ground the sides so I had clean steel. I just find its quicker overall to just mig it.
how do you even flip the billet when the numbers are supposed to count lmao. didnt count?
Yeah I’m not sure how that happened. Somehow it did though. At least it’s on the end and that will be the tang/handle. Thanks for watching.
Man I wanna see this design twisted
Twisting this would just produce sone weird twist, you’d lose the pattern completely. Twisting any pattern really just shows a twist only unless you just twist it a few times. Thanks for watching, Andrew.
It looks like this is an easiest mosaic damascus.
Yes, this is probably the easiest mosaic to do. Thanks for watching.
👏👏👏👏🤜🤛
Thanks for watching!
👍👍😊🔥
Thanks for watching, Johnny!
can you make me some kitchen knife for my wife? i want to have kitchen knife with damascus patern,at least i can buy it with inexpensive price for it...
Sorry, I’m not taking custom orders. Thanks for watching
not gonna lie, a lot of the patterns on the more complicated Damascus is rather cluttered looking and never pops as much as the simpler stuff imo. I def can appreciate the skill in making them tho!
Well, sone of the more complex patterns can be incredible. Next week’s should not disappoint! 😉. Thanks for watching