the one question I have is once the thick diagonal pattern is formed, how do you cut it in 4's to form the first rhombus with the thick line?? i can see two pieces getting it but not all 4
@@MasaruNatsu Once you have the pattern on the bottom left of the thumbnail, you cut that bar into 4. Then rotate each piece by 90 degrees each time and you should get the pattern to the right of it.
Question about layer count and raindrop pattern Damascus. I was thinking about your comment and how raindrop wasn’t your favorite. I realized I love raindrop but only in a lower layer count, high counts just look gray to me. Which lends the question- have you ever studied what layer counts look “best” with which pattern?
@@ericniefert3499 I think you’re in the minority on low layer raindrop. I think it looks better in higher layer counts or it’s just a few rings. Twist can look really good in low layer. So can mosaics when it’s combined with other patterns.
@@TyrellKnifeworks maybe I AM in the minority on that one or perhaps just got lucky and got a cool pattern on mine. (Kind of a newbee and just learning) I think mine was 51 layers and it was on a filet knife which got worked real thin. Thank you for taking the time to reply
This is by far the absolute best forging / knife making channel on UA-cam. It is virtually impossible to find such an amount of high quality educational material anywhere else. Cheers!
I've always heard those who can do and those who can't teach but not in your case you do great work and your teaching is in-depth and easy to understand! Thanks!
I'm so happy to hear its useful and interesting! Thanks for following along! The patterns will start to get increasingly more complex as well. Plus some cool new techniques you'll see soon.
I'm happy it's helpful! Thanks for following along. They patterns will start to get increasingly more complex so its good to understand the basics first. 👍🏻
Hey Brother, I could watch videos like this one, all day long! Super educational! Especially for guys like me that are just getting started in Bladesmithing! Thank you so much for the 'SHOUT-OUT', as well! I totally didn't expect it! You rock, Denis! 💯😎👍🏻🔨🔥🗡️
Nice video and instructional. That chunk of brass is perfect for staging photos! I think I would be taking sips of the maple syrup in the shop throughout the day.
Fantastic! One thing I've always struggled with is visualizing the pattern formations. Would love to see more of these types of videos for other patterns!
Clear and cogent! Obviously one must learn a new way of thinking to keep the orientations correct, and clearly I need to do more thinking! Some of the more exotic patterns are the product of planning that I'm not capable of. Yet.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I swear you added more information to this video since I saw it last! Or maybe I'm finally learning. You taught me more in your shop than I realized at the time.
saving this video for future reference. i know i will be watching it often until i master the "crushed w's" technique. On my 12 ton table top press i think it will be a challenge but I cant wait to try it anyways!
If I remember correctly, there was a guy named Devin Thomas that was in an article in Blade (?) magazine way back in the 70s-80s. One of the first selling patterned steel billets that I ever heard of. Anyway, it showed the press dies he made for his ladder pattern. There were commercial dowels laid in parallel milled slots in the plate. Dowels were probably 1/4 diameter spaced about 1/2 or less apart. The mating plate was the same but offset by the size of the dowel so they would mesh if you understand what I'm saying. It seems like that would just end up with parallel lines and perhaps they had alternating tilts of the dowels. He was obviously then surface grinding them flat to the bottom of the pressed indentions.
Yes, that is a very common method of doing ladder pattern. It gives you a very predictable pattern each time and how production companies do it. You do grind off more steel though. Thanks for watching.
I cant wait to get some handle materials to you. I have a friend that gave me 2 very large chunks of box elder burl I am going to stabilize and color a bit. Once I get enough money saved up for the Cactus Juice that is lol. The burl are aprox 24in x 24in x 8in thick and He has a ton more just wasting away in the sun lol. Amazing video as always sir!
@@TyrellKnifeworks true that I kind of like some of the inconsistencies. One thing I did want to note though is that if you do like a multiple feather style rather than using a round distortion, you could get a ladder pattern without removing much material other than surface refinement. It would take an upset Forge weld though
@@blaneyblades4810 yeah, it wouldn’t really look like a ladder but it would probably be pretty cool. That’s a tough forge weld though. Maybe worth trying at sone point. I’ll certainly be covering feather soon!
Yes it can be sometimes. Usually you can tell the orientation because you can see the layers when it’s hot. It’s a different story when we get to canister Damascus though!
I have a viewer question but it's about grinders -- I have a 4" x 36" grinder. Can I get away with that for now, as I'm just getting started? or do I really need a 2x42 or 2x48?
I started with a 4x36 and the issue is that with a wide platen like it's very hard to do any kind of inside curve. Plus they tend to be very underpowered and are easy to bog down AND on the flip side, they go full speed all the time with no variable speed option. Is it better than a 2x48, no. Can you get by with it, yes. My advice would be to skip the 2x48 altogether and save up for a 2x72. If price is a factor, the Revolution grinder kit from housemade.us is only ~$775 plus you need a motor an vfd, so for around $1k you get an industrial grinder that will outlive you. Thanks for watching.
I kinda want him to make a video forging a katana again with a different color red-white maybe or other it kinda interest me how he makes it and how proper methods he using to forge a Damascus blades
No, its super tedious! 😉. They are done with Gimp (open source PhotoShop) and done manually. So yes, they are tedious but I think they are critical for folks to understand the patterns. Particularly as we get into the more complex patterns.
When you mean mineral bath, are you talking about the mineral oil? Or perhaps about the coffee etch? The mineral oil is just used to seal it and keep it from rusting.
@@TyrellKnifeworks the copper Damascus katana video from a while back, you made the sword black by dipping it in a mineral solution, was there any downsides to that?
@@digital6278 For the blade, that was first ferric chloride acid to etch the blade and then hot coffee to make it black. The mineral oil is just something you put on at the end. The fittings were done in a hot salt chemical treatment. Perhaps that's what you're referring to. No downsides, it just take some practice and of course you must get the special chemicals and setup. It can be dangerous as well, so you need to follow the instructions.
That copper would look cool as a handle. Might have to form it a bit What would happen if you took a ladder pattern and twisted it? Or took twist pattern and then did a ladder on top?
The copper would be a bit heavy for a handle though. It would have to be a big chopper or something like that. If you twisted a ladder, it gets really muddied. Unless it was a really mild twist, it starts to combine the layers so much that you don't see the ladder.
@@ronsimpson143 Sure, that might look nice. It would also be cool to do a hybrid scale where the front is copper and then pour colored resin on the back half. That would be cool.
If depends on what you refer to as "wavy" damascus. If you just mean layers that move up and down but there isn't any "ladder" rings, then those are just formed by pressing into the billet at intervals and reflattening it. It's really just a form of random pattern. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I saw this one vid were a guy forged the billet into a " wave " then ground it down and vice versa. He didn't really go to much detail in it
@@williammorrin7933 I see the video and what you mean. That's done by rotating the billet 90 degrees so the layers are facing up. Then he's putting in those distortions on the edges and forging it back flat. This is a technique I'll cover when we get to feather because I'll be doing the "wavy" feather pattern. Stay tuned! Personally I think the basic wavy layers isn't that interesting, but that's just me. Thanks for watching, William.
my son which is 23 has always wanted a katana aka japanese sword like what a ninja would have what would you charge me to make me one for a surprise for his birthday
Man what a great way to show this. I’ve been trying to wrap my brain around these patterns as a non knife maker 😂 BTW I’m sliding in your Instagram dms in a bit. 👍🏼
Do you have any questions about pattern development and anything I discussed in this episode?
the one question I have is once the thick diagonal pattern is formed, how do you cut it in 4's to form the first rhombus with the thick line?? i can see two pieces getting it but not all 4
@@MasaruNatsu Once you have the pattern on the bottom left of the thumbnail, you cut that bar into 4. Then rotate each piece by 90 degrees each time and you should get the pattern to the right of it.
Question about layer count and raindrop pattern Damascus. I was thinking about your comment and how raindrop wasn’t your favorite. I realized I love raindrop but only in a lower layer count, high counts just look gray to me. Which lends the question- have you ever studied what layer counts look “best” with which pattern?
@@ericniefert3499 I think you’re in the minority on low layer raindrop. I think it looks better in higher layer counts or it’s just a few rings. Twist can look really good in low layer. So can mosaics when it’s combined with other patterns.
@@TyrellKnifeworks maybe I AM in the minority on that one or perhaps just got lucky and got a cool pattern on mine. (Kind of a newbee and just learning) I think mine was 51 layers and it was on a filet knife which got worked real thin. Thank you for taking the time to reply
This is by far the absolute best forging / knife making channel on UA-cam.
It is virtually impossible to find such an amount of high quality educational material anywhere else. Cheers!
Thanks so much, Danilo! I really appreciate that! ❤️
Thank you now I finally understand C's and W's
That’s great, now we’ll get into more complicated patterns soon. 👍
I've always heard those who can do and those who can't teach but not in your case you do great work and your teaching is in-depth and easy to understand! Thanks!
Thanks so much! I’m happy the lessons make sense. 😉. Thanks for watching
Nice explanation. Appreciated the visual aids.
I'm a visual learner myself, I think most people are. I'm glad it's helpful. Thanks for watching, Darrin!
I'm loving this series Denis! keep up the awesome videos, we appreciate them so much! You have a great knack for explaining, and teaching. Thank you!
I'm so happy to hear its useful and interesting! Thanks for following along! The patterns will start to get increasingly more complex as well. Plus some cool new techniques you'll see soon.
Always enjoy watching your work. Glad you give great explanations. Thanks for sharing.
I'm happy it's helpful! Thanks for following along. They patterns will start to get increasingly more complex so its good to understand the basics first. 👍🏻
Awesome presentation Denis 🙏
Thanks for watching, Matt!
Denis- youre a great maker and teacher- I usually have trouble focusing but you explained everything very well and I understand much better.
I'm glad the info is helpful, Lanny! Thanks for following the channel! ❤️
Hey Brother, I could watch videos like this one, all day long! Super educational! Especially for guys like me that are just getting started in Bladesmithing! Thank you so much for the 'SHOUT-OUT', as well! I totally didn't expect it! You rock, Denis! 💯😎👍🏻🔨🔥🗡️
Thanks for always watching and following the channel, Bob!
It is interesting to see the development of the pattern. Thanks
Thanks for watching, Stephen!
Excellent explanation!! Thank you !
Thanks for watching, Mike!
great explanation and as always, I love your visual teaching sessions.
Thanks for following along, Brigham!
Great explanation -- best one I have seen yet. Keep up the great work and sharing your knowledge. Learning a LOT!
I'm glad it's helping you, Eric! Thanks for watching
Thank you! Super nice explanation!
I'm glad it made sense, Gerald! Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Definitely! Your illustrations really help to understand what is going on in a piece of black crusty iron. 😀
Lots of great info broken down very well! Thanks again Dennis!
I'm glad it was helpful, Stephen! Thanks for watching.
super cool i was wondering some of that info, thank you
I'm glad it was helpful!
denis i learned alot from this video thank you so much for doing this series is gonna help me alot down the road Mark 😀👍
Thanhs for following the series, Mark! We are just starting to scratch the surface. Lots to come!
Nice video and instructional. That chunk of brass is perfect for staging photos! I think I would be taking sips of the maple syrup in the shop throughout the day.
Ha, a caffeine AND a sugar rush. I’d be going a mile a minute in the shop. 🤣.
Fantastic! One thing I've always struggled with is visualizing the pattern formations. Would love to see more of these types of videos for other patterns!
There certainly will be more, particularly as we get to the more complex patterns. Thanks for watching, Edward.
清晰完整的讲解！真棒！Clear and complete explanation! that 's great!
Thanks for watching!
Obrigado Tyrell assisto todos os seu vídeos,aqui do Brasil.Muito Obrigado pelos ensinamentos.
Obrigado por acompanhar!
Clear and cogent! Obviously one must learn a new way of thinking to keep the orientations correct, and clearly I need to do more thinking! Some of the more exotic patterns are the product of planning that I'm not capable of. Yet.
Keep watching, you will learn all you need to know! 👍🏻
@@TyrellKnifeworks I swear you added more information to this video since I saw it last! Or maybe I'm finally learning. You taught me more in your shop than I realized at the time.
@@brysonalden5414 once you start to understand the principles, more if it makes sense i think.
saving this video for future reference. i know i will be watching it often until i master the "crushed w's" technique. On my 12 ton table top press i think it will be a challenge but I cant wait to try it anyways!
We’ll be covering tips and how-it’s on crushed-W’s in future episodes when we start to forge those. 👍
If I remember correctly, there was a guy named Devin Thomas that was in an article in Blade (?) magazine way back in the 70s-80s. One of the first selling patterned steel billets that I ever heard of. Anyway, it showed the press dies he made for his ladder pattern. There were commercial dowels laid in parallel milled slots in the plate. Dowels were probably 1/4 diameter spaced about 1/2 or less apart. The mating plate was the same but offset by the size of the dowel so they would mesh if you understand what I'm saying. It seems like that would just end up with parallel lines and perhaps they had alternating tilts of the dowels. He was obviously then surface grinding them flat to the bottom of the pressed indentions.
Yes, that is a very common method of doing ladder pattern. It gives you a very predictable pattern each time and how production companies do it. You do grind off more steel though. Thanks for watching.
Very useful knowledge, thank you very much!
Thanks for following along!
I cant wait to get some handle materials to you. I have a friend that gave me 2 very large chunks of box elder burl I am going to stabilize and color a bit. Once I get enough money saved up for the Cactus Juice that is lol. The burl are aprox 24in x 24in x 8in thick and He has a ton more just wasting away in the sun lol. Amazing video as always sir!
Wow, that’s a lot of burl! Box Elder is beautiful too. Thanks for watching this episode!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for making it :)
Wow, wouldn't it be nice if our patterns turned out that symmetrical every time!? Got to love CAD
Ha, yeah no kidding. If I could just draw them each time and POOF, there they are. Though that would take the fun out of it. 😜
@@TyrellKnifeworks true that I kind of like some of the inconsistencies. One thing I did want to note though is that if you do like a multiple feather style rather than using a round distortion, you could get a ladder pattern without removing much material other than surface refinement. It would take an upset Forge weld though
@@blaneyblades4810 yeah, it wouldn’t really look like a ladder but it would probably be pretty cool. That’s a tough forge weld though. Maybe worth trying at sone point. I’ll certainly be covering feather soon!
@@TyrellKnifeworks do you remember the dagger that I brought to your Bay Area meet and great? That's what that pattern was. Although I did Mosaic it
@@TyrellKnifeworks I think I might try that for a ladder type pattern.
*Congratulations* On 200K Subscription, Tyrell 👍😄
Thank you!
J adore votre travail.
La forge du petit canard
Merci! J'apprécie que vous jetiez un coup d'œil.
Very cool-must be hard to keep track os the orientation during restacking/tiling.
Yes it can be sometimes. Usually you can tell the orientation because you can see the layers when it’s hot. It’s a different story when we get to canister Damascus though!
Good work..👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice explanation
Thanks for watching, Barry!
Hi I really enjoy your videos thank you for taking the time to post. What software did you use to produce the damascus layer images?
This was just fine using photoshop. Thanks for following the series!
I working on my crushed W’s and if I only want to do a blade with crushed w’s , at what point do forge the billet flat?
When you restack your C’s, then get your W’s and draw it out and flatten into a billet. Thanks for watching.
I have a viewer question but it's about grinders -- I have a 4" x 36" grinder. Can I get away with that for now, as I'm just getting started? or do I really need a 2x42 or 2x48?
I started with a 4x36 and the issue is that with a wide platen like it's very hard to do any kind of inside curve. Plus they tend to be very underpowered and are easy to bog down AND on the flip side, they go full speed all the time with no variable speed option. Is it better than a 2x48, no. Can you get by with it, yes. My advice would be to skip the 2x48 altogether and save up for a 2x72. If price is a factor, the Revolution grinder kit from housemade.us is only ~$775 plus you need a motor an vfd, so for around $1k you get an industrial grinder that will outlive you. Thanks for watching.
I kinda want him to make a video forging a katana again with a different color red-white maybe or other it kinda interest me how he makes it and how proper methods he using to forge a Damascus blades
Sorry, no katanas for a while. I’ll be doing a Viking spear soon though. Thanks for watching
How do you make those paper drawings on the computer? That either seems super tedious, or like a special program
No, its super tedious! 😉. They are done with Gimp (open source PhotoShop) and done manually. So yes, they are tedious but I think they are critical for folks to understand the patterns. Particularly as we get into the more complex patterns.
When you made that beautiful katana, I was wondering, you used a mineral bath coating, is there an benefit/downside to that?
When you mean mineral bath, are you talking about the mineral oil? Or perhaps about the coffee etch? The mineral oil is just used to seal it and keep it from rusting.
@@TyrellKnifeworks the copper Damascus katana video from a while back, you made the sword black by dipping it in a mineral solution, was there any downsides to that?
@@digital6278 For the blade, that was first ferric chloride acid to etch the blade and then hot coffee to make it black. The mineral oil is just something you put on at the end. The fittings were done in a hot salt chemical treatment. Perhaps that's what you're referring to. No downsides, it just take some practice and of course you must get the special chemicals and setup. It can be dangerous as well, so you need to follow the instructions.
That copper would look cool as a handle. Might have to form it a bit
What would happen if you took a ladder pattern and twisted it? Or took twist pattern and then did a ladder on top?
The copper would be a bit heavy for a handle though. It would have to be a big chopper or something like that. If you twisted a ladder, it gets really muddied. Unless it was a really mild twist, it starts to combine the layers so much that you don't see the ladder.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks for replying. On the copper, I was thinking a veneer over wood or as an accent piece.
@@ronsimpson143 Sure, that might look nice. It would also be cool to do a hybrid scale where the front is copper and then pour colored resin on the back half. That would be cool.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Especially if you could get some of the verdigris involved with the design.
can you tell me if there is a program for drawings?
None that I know of. I do these an open source version of Photoshop and its quite manual. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thanks for the answer. I would love to watch your tutorial video.
wonder if you can experiment with patterns by using candy making to test.
Yeah that might work well. Some people use clay or playdoh to create their patterns too. Thanks for watching
Could you go over wavy damascus?
If depends on what you refer to as "wavy" damascus. If you just mean layers that move up and down but there isn't any "ladder" rings, then those are just formed by pressing into the billet at intervals and reflattening it. It's really just a form of random pattern. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I saw this one vid were a guy forged the billet into a " wave " then ground it down and vice versa. He didn't really go to much detail in it
@@TyrellKnifeworks Kenton Adams did the vid on 5 different damascus patterns.
@@williammorrin7933 I see the video and what you mean. That's done by rotating the billet 90 degrees so the layers are facing up. Then he's putting in those distortions on the edges and forging it back flat. This is a technique I'll cover when we get to feather because I'll be doing the "wavy" feather pattern. Stay tuned! Personally I think the basic wavy layers isn't that interesting, but that's just me. Thanks for watching, William.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Ok sounds good. Your vids are good.
my son which is 23 has always wanted a katana aka japanese sword like what a ninja would have what would you charge me to make me one for a surprise for his birthday
Sorry, Chuck, I don’t do custom orders. I just sell what I make for the channel.
@@TyrellKnifeworks alright could you make him a knife like the one you made using the copper core that is a beautiful knife
@@chuckkeeler1112 no, sorry, no custom orders.
🦍
Dang i need 200 plus layers!?!?!?!
For the basic patterns except twist, it’s much better to have 150+ layers. Thanks for watching.
It had 69 likes and I liked it. I'm sorry.
Haha... well let's go for 6969 likes. 😉.
Where you a teacher in a previous life?
Never part of my professional career, but I'm a PADI scuba diving instructor, so I've "taught" in other way before. Thanks for watching, Carl!
0:06 voice crack 😅
haha, it happens. I try to catch it in editing but not this time. 🤣. Thanks for watching.
Man what a great way to show this. I’ve been trying to wrap my brain around these patterns as a non knife maker 😂 BTW I’m sliding in your Instagram dms in a bit. 👍🏼
Thanks for following along! I’m glad this is helpful. 👍