Great video on the replacement... Just an FYI, you have to register the new battery. I installed a new battery about a year and a half ago without registering it. About a month ago while driving the instrument cluster lit up like a Christmas tree and the car stalled on the road. I had the car towed to BMW and shortly after I was presented with a $2300 bill. Long story short, I needed a new alternator and battery. I told bmw that the battery was 1.5 years old and I had a 4 yr warranty...how could this happen? Since I never registered the new battery when I changed it myself....apparently the car thinks that the battery is old and therefore the alternator overcharges it. For not registering the new battery I ruined the alternator as well as killed the battery. On a positive note...BMW charges $150 to register the new battery and fortunately there are a handful of very capable scanners for $120 out there that register your battery as well as diagnose any issues that might arise. It's a well worth investment in my opinion.
Thank you for posting this video. Of note, I also had to replace the 5 AMP Fuse for the OBC (On Board Computer), because it was blown as a result of the new battery installation. When I started up the car, the new battery worked great, but I had no instrumentation and my windshield wipers came on, and I could not get them to stop. A new 5 AMP fuse in in the 134 slot and everything was like brand new.
Just recently replaced the battery on my 2013 BMW X5 after 8 and a half years of driving it since new. This tutorial is almost perfect. I wish it stated the correct size of battery. I bought not an original BMW battery but a battery from a nearby vendor. The vendor's website cited a particular model that fits my vehicle. Come to find out, there are other two sizes of the same brand that supposedly fits. I bought the size H8 instead of the correct H9 designation. Had to make a second trip to swap batteries. Otherwise, video was so helpful, I was so happy I watched it and did the replacement myself.
Spot on. Thanks so much. I was certain my battery was weak. Took it into the shop for front end work (arm and a leg$$$), and said please check the battery. They come back and say it's fine. Now my non-comfort fob won't work. They say, oh that's the battery light for the fob. I was like- well it worked when I brought it in here. So I order a new battery and soldering gun to solder the new battery - $35 total. Then drove for two hours....notta! Looked up another video with a similar issue and their battery was dropping below 12amp. So they replaced the battery and it worked. AND right in the "info" it stated, "BATTERY NOT FREAKING CHARGING"...well, not exact words :) Went down and got a battery that weighed 9000 lbs and put it in. Now when I drive for a bit, I know my fob battery will charge. People providing service in the 21st Century make pissy excuses like "covid" to not provide excellence in service. From mechanics, grocery store, utility services, insurance, GOVT... you name it.
Thanks for the walkthrough. I havent swapped the battery in my X5, so thats how I found this video. But to the point about programming; yes you do need to program it. The charging system in modern BMW's is pretty complex. You have to program the car to let it know how many amps the battery is. If you swap for an identical amperage battery, dont need to program it, but you still have to register it. Basically you have to let the car know the battery is new, so it knows how to charge and monitor it. Programming and registering are different processes. Since you changed out the BMW battery for a Duralast, you probably need to do both. From what I've read, if you dont do this, you can really screw up your electrical system.
They just make it so complicated for normal people that won't know about that right. Thanks for the advise, do I need a special tool to register the battery.
This was a great video! My car this past week had been acting weird and not wanting to start right away. I suspected my battery was dying and this video saved us a heftier bill. Me and my husband were able to follow this video step by step and now my X5 starts and runs great!
Great video. I believe the warning light showed was caused be steering angle sensor. When you turned the steering wheel to the left and later to the right this calibrated the sensor and disarmed the warning light. I don't think it was due to how long or far you had driven. Believe that you can do in driveway before you test drive to eliminate the alarm? Also, noticed that your clock was not set following battery replacement...in some cases not setting date and time can result with other modules becoming annoyed - best to reset date/time after battery replacement. This has been my experience rather than from a manual but I have been able to repeat so I hope this is helpful?
Thank you for the tutorial, I have purchased the scan tool just to be safe. I had heard about registering new batteries but was not sure about it until now.
Great video, thanks for sharing. I bought My X5 6 months ago, with about 96k miles on it. Plan on keeping until it dies. Will definitely need this sometime in the future. Side note: I use those metal grabbing trays for my loose bolts & screws, prevents losing them
Thank you for the video, it is well explained and easy to follow the directions. After replacing my battery, I have got the same error message from the Traction Control function, which like in your case, went away after driving about 100 yards. Although it is a small glitch, it gives a Transfer Case error code CF80 "Signal from Engine Management: set point-torque request", which is in influent because it can be cleared with a decent OBD scanner and it will not come back. It just happens because the battery is disconnected, but if the user is not aware of it, he may get spooked sometime later not knowing what caused it and thinking of a Transfer Case issue. Also it is better to do the "battery registration" as per directions from BMW. If you do not do it it will likely do not damage the battery, but the alternator will overcharge it. The Intelligent Battery Sensor, not knowing is a new battery, it will keep charging at the same rate it did with the old one. Which leads to overworking the alternator and using more gas. I checked my gas mileage before and after changing the battery and there has been a 2 mpg improvement in highway driving. Also with the new battery, the Battery Sensor asks to charge it at an average lower voltage than the old battery, therefore less work for the alternator and less gas usage. Cheers. Here is how it works in conjunctions with breaking and coasting: ua-cam.com/video/wF8CkwYxt_Y/v-deo.html
Video was helpful. After battery change out, the warning message about battery discharge disappeared after idling for 10 minutes, droved couple of meters in my driveway, while the 4WD stabilization error disappeared after wheeling all the way to the left then to the centre, then wheel all the way to the right and to the centre again. The X5 year 2013 x35i I have I noticed has the 15.5 inches approximate battery length, which is an H9 (not H8 as most battery sellers recommendation). The AGM battery in my car is 105Ah with 950 CCA with BMW sticker (original), I replaced it with 95R/H9 AGM Motomaster from Can Tire with exact battery ratings, with exact dimensions, I noticed construction looks very similar, except the stickers are different. There are 2 holes at the sides, one I connected to the vent tube at the side (near the positive post) and the second hole I assume its also a vent opening. I took out the white plug on the bmw battery and plug the second hole at the negative terminal side of the battery, its not easy to remove the second bmw battery plastic vent plug, i sort of cut the end piece but it serves the plugging purpose.
THAT was absolutely perfect! Even the faults at the end and they disappeared as explained. They only thing that stumped me was when you said +ve to the drivers side... I’m in the UK! ...... it took me a min! 😂 👍
Very helpful video, so thank you for posting! Made the job super easy. (Aside from trying to get the hold down on the side back on... that was a tad big challenging. Much appreciated.
Great video and thanks for sharing. I have a 2013 X6M and my BMW service advisor told me that the dealer can only change the battery due to some reprogramming is required. I hope he’s incorrect.
Benjie Hojilla, yes it's needs to be reprogramming after the change, because the computer have to know that changed battery is new and it's necessary to be charge less than the old one
If you installed the exact same type battery no coding is necessary and even if you didn’t in most cases it won’t make one bit of difference but there is that off chance that it will... what I’m saying is if you can get it coded do so but if you can’t don’t let that stop you , you won’t harm anything, just get some coding later if needed.
I just purchased X5 and it’s an 07 and you probably no I’m already that these BMWs can be a real pain in the ass I love the way drives in the handles but your video helped tremendously and I’m still in the stage of phone do you know if it’s a dead battery or I can just re-charge the original my neighbor told me the alarm was going off like all day the day before all right instead of let me know when I got home that evening so now I find it the battery is dead but thanks again I do appreciate the video And will continue to check on others that may help
Did you have to re-code the ECU after installing the new battery to inform it of the new battery (e.g. if the battery has a different Cold Cranking Amp)? I believe the car needs to be able to recharge the battery efficiently and so it needs these values coded to the ECU.
Carl Owens no recoding needed. Watch the end of the video. It shows the common warning lights after installing a new battery on these cars. The lights will go away after driving less than a mile down the road.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Not needed up front, but for mpg efficiency, bmw disconnects the alternator to avoid excessive charging, so it has to know how old the battery is, otherwise it's gonna keep the alternator running and that will reduce the battery's life as well. That's why bmw batteries will last you for over a decade!
@@VictorEstrada "disconnects the alternator"? What does that mean? The alternator is electronically disconnected when a new battery is installed without ECU codes?
With ignition on turn steering max to left and right the lights goes off; not necessary to drive . Agency mechanics said , they check the software using a diagnostic software and ensure that everything works well.
for the DSC reset....just start the car, turn the wheel fully left, then back to center, then fully to the right, and back to center....the light will then go out....
I had this same warning come up after we replaced the battery. I drove my car around the block once turned off my car and then turned it back on and it didn't show that warning anymore.
Someone once told me to remove the negative (black) side of the battery first. If you touch black to ground no problem. That way if when you take off the red side and accidentally touch the chassis, you wont arc it.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Just a tip dude, you are free to take them off however you want too, but just stating a simple tip that may prevent an accident.
How has this battery held up on your car? My brother advises me over using the Walmart brand 1 that I looked up and seems to be pretty solid. I mean there is only maybe 2 battery manufactures left now. So I havent got the Walmart 1 for this reason might have to go with the costco "interstate " brand. Any advice it's only about a 10 buck difference, and I have heard reprogramming is recommended
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair ok should there be any concerns of the battery dying out if I'm just parked listening to music every so often, with the car off ?
Rich Mejia Most newer cars have power delay relays or times relays. So they would shit themselves off after a set time. However I cannot tell you that constantly doing that won’t hurt the battery over time because it will. I would just let the car run while listening if you could.
Al B If you are noticing oil buildup around the rubber connector for the turbo charge pipes, this seems to happen on all n54 engines. Unfortunately all cars have PCV systems in place that redirects oil vapors into the intake systems. This oil vapor then gets spread around everywhere and that’s how you get oil in places where it doesn’t seem likely to have oil. You can run a catch can to help alleviate this problem.
I have a E70 and I've heard a million times that this is a DEALER ONLY operation because the car needs to be "coded"? Otherwise it won't accept the battery?
AngelGoneWild _ what a Dumbass and uneducated statement... plenty of well over 300k German cars of all types out there and they will blow your petty 4-runner out of the water.
Thanks for the video! My 2008 BMW X5 currently won’t start and not sure why. Thought it may be the battery - was only getting 11.8v with my multimeter but it should still try to crank with a low battery or produce an error code I would think? I disconnected the ibs sensor as that apparently causes this type of problem but didn’t change anything. Any ideas?
Yes, all lights come on. The strange thing is when I push the start button and take my foot off the brake, I get a warning exclamation notification that the ignition is on. I can’t move the shifter out of park with foot on the brake - thought I may be able to move into N.
axesomebody honestly there isn’t an easy way to test the starter without removing it from the car to have it tested. Short of doing that you can locate the starter and pull off the the starter solenoid signal wire (normally a single wire going into the starter solenoid) While someone attempts to start the car use a multimeter to see if you’re getting 12v (battery voltage) at that wire. If you do get power there, there is a high possibility that the starter is bad. If you don’t get battery voltage at that wire then there could be many other issues with the starting system.
You don’t need to loosen the two 13 mm pos nuts, the outside vent isn’t a drain hole it is a vent to vent gas out of the vehicle to keep toxic gas out of the vehicle
I had the same 4x4 message pop up on the message board and the BMW tech advised me to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then all the way to the right while the engine is running and the car is in park...the 4×4 and DSC lights went away immediately.
I read somewhere that it’s possible to connect a second temporary battery before disconnecting the one your replacing so that there is no loss of power to the system. Apparently this keeps the system live during the change over thus not requiring resets etc . Any thoughts out there.
Absolutely. It is very helpful if you are having something like a CTEK CS ONE gizmo to act as your secondary power supply unit. After the new battery installation, everything will remain as before the battery disconnection. Chances are very high that some modules will get bricked such as the CAS or FRM module as they always need constant power supply even when the engine is off and the key fob is out, that is why they are called parasitic battery drainer. Without another power supply support, you will be changing the battery with high risk of frying up something in the system, some modules or the other. I learned the hard way. And you definitely need re-coding and registration if the new battery capacity is different from the old one, as in the crank ampere and the Ah rate of the new one. It is very easy to do if you have bimmercode and bimmerlink OBD system. BMW X5 are cool to drive but complex. Well, so is any BMW vehicle but they are quite getting simpler day by day with many newly developed gizmo to assist and avoid getting one's wallet drained dry by the dealers. 😀 Regards.
once u disconnect the negative cable from the battery the only thing will happen is discharging the capacitors int the individual boards circuit should your ratchet touch a ground
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I think he was talking about BMW make in particular without coding included. Im curious myself did it last longer than two years?
Absolutely. I just mentioned that earlier. CTEK CS ONE is made for such extra power supply support to avoid the system getting power starved briefly during the replacement. Many garage owners never know that and will adopt the method. A Chinese friend revealed that fact to me.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair That's how I opened the drivers door.. but no such key hole for the trunk :( This is a 2008 X5 I believe.. from what I'm reading it may be possible to open it from the inside.
ElectricLuvz Most of these cars if you squat down and look up where you stick your hand in to release the trunk there is a keyhole hiding up there. Just have a look right near where you stick your hand in to release the trunk.
I did this and once everything was put back together, my passenger airbag light and 4x4 light came on. After driving a while they won’t turn off. Do I need to take it to BMW to have them reset it or is there something else I could do?
Tristan Macke Did you watch the very end of the video? I went on a drive right after getting everything back together and had the same lights. They went away within 1 min of driving.
Tristan Macke turn the wheel lock to lock and it will go away. The car needs to relearn where the wheels are. Will happen every time you disconnect the battery.
I was told by the dealership that my 2009 X5 30i has to be reprogrammed after replacement or the sensor will not read the battery as new and will drain it. True or false? Also, can I reprogram it myself? I was told that it has to be registered with BMW.
Not reprogram but re-code and register into the system. Gone were the days when owning an automobile was very simple and easy to handle. Now the complexity is mind blowing. 😃
Hallo can you help me out. My bmw died during winter time, I tried jumping it tru the back trunk where the battery is at, and it did start 1 time, then I tried jumping it again and the lights in the front started going crazy like flickering on and off , do you know what could have happen, and now the key its stuck in ignition, It's a e70 2007 x5. I will appreciate it. 🙏, that's my baby feels like I killed it and I'm so worried about it.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair no cross and didn't touch the body at all. I just left the battery charging with a jumper when I went back tried to start it and rhe lights in dash and center console started acting funny like flickering. And now not getting no power, my passenger side door is locked can't open it from the inside I'm able to open the driver side from the outside with the key but I can't get to the passenger side fuses because the door won't open from the inside, could it be a fuse blown, I took out the battery yesterday from the truck and charged it by itself and still nothing, no lights come on there is no juice, I'm gonna try taking the battery to auto zone to check if it's the battery not getting no juice at all.
@@luisgraciliano you very well could have blown the main battery fuse. Check the fuse box under hood for a large fuse 100amp or 80amp. Something along those lines to see if it blew.
Hey I’m getting check engine light on my E70 that says low power input to the engine and battery sign is coming so will this sign go away after replacing battery and would I need to get computer restarted or will this malfunction go away on its own. Yeah I know its a noob question but I just got a 2011 X5 so just trying to get some info from someone who knows. Thanks
Great video on the replacement...
Just an FYI, you have to register the new battery. I installed a new battery about a year and a half ago without registering it. About a month ago while driving the instrument cluster lit up like a Christmas tree and the car stalled on the road. I had the car towed to BMW and shortly after I was presented with a $2300 bill. Long story short, I needed a new alternator and battery. I told bmw that the battery was 1.5 years old and I had a 4 yr warranty...how could this happen? Since I never registered the new battery when I changed it myself....apparently the car thinks that the battery is old and therefore the alternator overcharges it. For not registering the new battery I ruined the alternator as well as killed the battery.
On a positive note...BMW charges $150 to register the new battery and fortunately there are a handful of very capable scanners for $120 out there that register your battery as well as diagnose any issues that might arise. It's a well worth investment in my opinion.
Why did my wife get this pain in the ass car? Omg! Everything needs programming and registration 🤦♂️
Thank you for posting this video. Of note, I also had to replace the 5 AMP Fuse for the OBC (On Board Computer), because it was blown as a result of the new battery installation. When I started up the car, the new battery worked great, but I had no instrumentation and my windshield wipers came on, and I could not get them to stop. A new 5 AMP fuse in in the 134 slot and everything was like brand new.
Just recently replaced the battery on my 2013 BMW X5 after 8 and a half years of driving it since new. This tutorial is almost perfect. I wish it stated the correct size of battery. I bought not an original BMW battery but a battery from a nearby vendor. The vendor's website cited a particular model that fits my vehicle. Come to find out, there are other two sizes of the same brand that supposedly fits. I bought the size H8 instead of the correct H9 designation. Had to make a second trip to swap batteries. Otherwise, video was so helpful, I was so happy I watched it and did the replacement myself.
Did you have to reset anything?
@@gmcoy213 You have to register the battery.
Spot on. Thanks so much. I was certain my battery was weak. Took it into the shop for front end work (arm and a leg$$$), and said please check the battery. They come back and say it's fine. Now my non-comfort fob won't work. They say, oh that's the battery light for the fob. I was like- well it worked when I brought it in here. So I order a new battery and soldering gun to solder the new battery - $35 total. Then drove for two hours....notta! Looked up another video with a similar issue and their battery was dropping below 12amp. So they replaced the battery and it worked. AND right in the "info" it stated, "BATTERY NOT FREAKING CHARGING"...well, not exact words :) Went down and got a battery that weighed 9000 lbs and put it in. Now when I drive for a bit, I know my fob battery will charge. People providing service in the 21st Century make pissy excuses like "covid" to not provide excellence in service. From mechanics, grocery store, utility services, insurance, GOVT... you name it.
Thanks for the walkthrough. I havent swapped the battery in my X5, so thats how I found this video. But to the point about programming; yes you do need to program it. The charging system in modern BMW's is pretty complex. You have to program the car to let it know how many amps the battery is. If you swap for an identical amperage battery, dont need to program it, but you still have to register it. Basically you have to let the car know the battery is new, so it knows how to charge and monitor it. Programming and registering are different processes. Since you changed out the BMW battery for a Duralast, you probably need to do both. From what I've read, if you dont do this, you can really screw up your electrical system.
They just make it so complicated for normal people that won't know about that right. Thanks for the advise, do I need a special tool to register the battery.
@@luisgraciliano Ista
Great video. My husband and I (mostly my husband) followed the video and were able to change our battery easily. Thank you!
This was a great video! My car this past week had been acting weird and not wanting to start right away. I suspected my battery was dying and this video saved us a heftier bill. Me and my husband were able to follow this video step by step and now my X5 starts and runs great!
Replaced the battery on my 2013 X5 today, and this video was / is a top notch tutorial! Thank you!
Bruce Snow no problem!
Did you have any issue because the programming?
@@enriqueymartha0408 … no issues!
@@brucesnow3506 thanks for replying!
Just to verify you went without any kind of programming right?
Great video. I believe the warning light showed was caused be steering angle sensor. When you turned the steering wheel to the left and later to the right this calibrated the sensor and disarmed the warning light. I don't think it was due to how long or far you had driven. Believe that you can do in driveway before you test drive to eliminate the alarm? Also, noticed that your clock was not set following battery replacement...in some cases not setting date and time can result with other modules becoming annoyed - best to reset date/time after battery replacement. This has been my experience rather than from a manual but I have been able to repeat so I hope this is helpful?
My son and I followed it step for step, great info, and everything worked out perfectly.
Good video. You did fabulous explanation. I’m in your corner. I’ve done this job on an 3series with no issues. No registration etc.
So the 3 series you did and this X5 are the same?
grate ,clear and simple explanation, thanks for adding the reset method , nobody give this important hint,
thanks again, Tomek
Thank you for the tutorial, I have purchased the scan tool just to be safe. I had heard about registering new batteries but was not sure about it until now.
What scan tool?
Great video, thanks for sharing. I bought My X5 6 months ago, with about 96k miles on it. Plan on keeping until it dies. Will definitely need this sometime in the future. Side note: I use those metal grabbing trays for my loose bolts & screws, prevents losing them
Thank you for the video, it is well explained and easy to follow the directions. After replacing my battery, I have got the same error message from the Traction Control function, which like in your case, went away after driving about 100 yards.
Although it is a small glitch, it gives a Transfer Case error code CF80 "Signal from Engine Management: set point-torque request", which is in influent because it can be cleared with a decent OBD scanner and it will not come back. It just happens because the battery is disconnected, but if the user is not aware of it, he may get spooked sometime later not knowing what caused it and thinking of a Transfer Case issue.
Also it is better to do the "battery registration" as per directions from BMW. If you do not do it it will likely do not damage the battery, but the alternator will overcharge it. The Intelligent Battery Sensor, not knowing is a new battery, it will keep charging at the same rate it did with the old one. Which leads to overworking the alternator and using more gas.
I checked my gas mileage before and after changing the battery and there has been a 2 mpg improvement in highway driving.
Also with the new battery, the Battery Sensor asks to charge it at an average lower voltage than the old battery, therefore less work for the alternator and less gas usage. Cheers.
Here is how it works in conjunctions with breaking and coasting:
ua-cam.com/video/wF8CkwYxt_Y/v-deo.html
Video was helpful. After battery change out, the warning message about battery discharge disappeared after idling for 10 minutes, droved couple of meters in my driveway, while the 4WD stabilization error disappeared after wheeling all the way to the left then to the centre, then wheel all the way to the right and to the centre again. The X5 year 2013 x35i I have I noticed has the 15.5 inches approximate battery length, which is an H9 (not H8 as most battery sellers recommendation). The AGM battery in my car is 105Ah with 950 CCA with BMW sticker (original), I replaced it with 95R/H9 AGM Motomaster from Can Tire with exact battery ratings, with exact dimensions, I noticed construction looks very similar, except the stickers are different. There are 2 holes at the sides, one I connected to the vent tube at the side (near the positive post) and the second hole I assume its also a vent opening. I took out the white plug on the bmw battery and plug the second hole at the negative terminal side of the battery, its not easy to remove the second bmw battery plastic vent plug, i sort of cut the end piece but it serves the plugging purpose.
THAT was absolutely perfect! Even the faults at the end and they disappeared as explained.
They only thing that stumped me was when you said +ve to the drivers side... I’m in the UK! ...... it took me a min! 😂
👍
Cheers!
Great video! Really help me out replacing my old battery in my e70!
Very helpful video, so thank you for posting! Made the job super easy. (Aside from trying to get the hold down on the side back on... that was a tad big challenging. Much appreciated.
Hi
Just I question
Did you have any issue with the programming or registering the battery?
Great video and thanks for sharing. I have a 2013 X6M and my BMW service advisor told me that the dealer can only change the battery due to some reprogramming is required. I hope he’s incorrect.
Benjie Hojilla, yes it's needs to be reprogramming after the change, because the computer have to know that changed battery is new and it's necessary to be charge less than the old one
If you installed the exact same type battery no coding is necessary and even if you didn’t in most cases it won’t make one bit of difference but there is that off chance that it will... what I’m saying is if you can get it coded do so but if you can’t don’t let that stop you , you won’t harm anything, just get some coding later if needed.
@@robhughes8516 can battery minder be used like other cars to retain radio memory for BMW
@@robhughes8516 A new battery must be registered in the car. Or else.. bad news down the road.
Right what I was looking for.... thank you so much...
I was worry about 4x4
I just purchased X5 and it’s an 07 and you probably no I’m already that these BMWs can be a real pain in the ass I love the way drives in the handles but your video helped tremendously and I’m still in the stage of phone do you know if it’s a dead battery or I can just re-charge the original my neighbor told me the alarm was going off like all day the day before all right instead of let me know when I got home that evening so now I find it the battery is dead but thanks again I do appreciate the video And will continue to check on others that may help
Just replaced my car battery thanks to you, I’m 16 btw thanks.
💪🏾
Went to dealership yesterday. They said 475$.Will buy battery and hope this tutorial helps.
Did you have to re-code the ECU after installing the new battery to inform it of the new battery (e.g. if the battery has a different Cold Cranking Amp)? I believe the car needs to be able to recharge the battery efficiently and so it needs these values coded to the ECU.
Carl Owens no recoding needed. Watch the end of the video. It shows the common warning lights after installing a new battery on these cars. The lights will go away after driving less than a mile down the road.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Recoding is needed!
Battery management has an charge algorithm based on the age and charging state of the battery!
Also, get a Carly for BMW. It has a new battery installation / coding procedure in it.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Not needed up front, but for mpg efficiency, bmw disconnects the alternator to avoid excessive charging, so it has to know how old the battery is, otherwise it's gonna keep the alternator running and that will reduce the battery's life as well. That's why bmw batteries will last you for over a decade!
@@VictorEstrada "disconnects the alternator"? What does that mean? The alternator is electronically disconnected when a new battery is installed without ECU codes?
Si dejas sin corriente total , no te da fallo en el cuadro ? una vez puesta la nueva batería !! un saludo
Fantastic, easy to follow and understand .. thank you very much... fitted a battery trickle charger to battery terminals . works perfect ..
Thank you for uploading this. Very helpful, saved me a lot of time and money
thanks so much for posting. even told me what sockets sizes were needed. very helpful
With ignition on turn steering max to left and right the lights goes off; not necessary to drive
. Agency mechanics said , they check the software using a diagnostic software and ensure that everything works well.
Unreal video mate, just saved me an hr or two of R&D👍👍
Cheers
I heard you have to re-program the battery using the obd scanner tool after installing a new battery?
You must register the new battery when replacing it. Also program if the new battery has a different capacity.
for the DSC reset....just start the car, turn the wheel fully left, then back to center, then fully to the right, and back to center....the light will then go out....
Thanks for that video, now just verified that I had a bad battery. I’m wondering why I’m getting that stabilization messages and the 4x4 lights 👍🏼
We had the same issue! Once we replaced the battery all the warnings went away, hope its an easy fix for you all too!
Glad it helped
I had this same warning come up after we replaced the battery. I drove my car around the block once turned off my car and then turned it back on and it didn't show that warning anymore.
Someone once told me to remove the negative (black) side of the battery first. If you touch black to ground no problem. That way if when you take off the red side and accidentally touch the chassis, you wont arc it.
1975lap take them off however you want. It doesn’t matter really.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Just a tip dude, you are free to take them off however you want too, but just stating a simple tip that may prevent an accident.
Correct. Remove black first then the circuit is open and will not short if you touch red to chassis.
Well done Bro, thanks from Philly
Thanks man!! You saved me 200 bucks!
Dennis Ngai Of course! Glad you were able to save some money! Take yourself out for a treat!
Hi
Why are you replacing the platinum Duralast? Is it not a good fit for e70?how long did it last you?
3 years and counting.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair okay.
I will buy one tomorrow
Yes you do have to register the battery because of the IBS system. If not you will run into voltage trouble.
Thank you! Came here to find if there’s a need to code the new battery in and the video didn’t seem to mention this!
@@ItsAlive111 No coding, but register.
@@mcplutthow do you register it?
@@ByronBewley With a diagnostic scanner.
Do you need to do the battery adaptation? I know other BMW vehicles do. Thanks
I didnt
Thanks for this detailed video, it helps a lot.
Thanks for the video. Just did my 2011 diesel. 👍
Did you have to re-program using obd tool after installing the new battery?
@@joinsouthwest I did not.
How has this battery held up on your car? My brother advises me over using the Walmart brand 1 that I looked up and seems to be pretty solid. I mean there is only maybe 2 battery manufactures left now. So I havent got the Walmart 1 for this reason might have to go with the costco "interstate " brand. Any advice it's only about a 10 buck difference, and I have heard reprogramming is recommended
Rich Mejia works well
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair ok should there be any concerns of the battery dying out if I'm just parked listening to music every so often, with the car off ?
Rich Mejia Most newer cars have power delay relays or times relays. So they would shit themselves off after a set time. However I cannot tell you that constantly doing that won’t hurt the battery over time because it will. I would just let the car run while listening if you could.
Great video! Thanks. Can you do a video on how to replace turbos on an x5 as well? My 2012 x5 35d seem to be leaking some oil at 220 000 km.
Al B If you are noticing oil buildup around the rubber connector for the turbo charge pipes, this seems to happen on all n54 engines. Unfortunately all cars have PCV systems in place that redirects oil vapors into the intake systems. This oil vapor then gets spread around everywhere and that’s how you get oil in places where it doesn’t seem likely to have oil. You can run a catch can to help alleviate this problem.
Thank you so much, fantastic. God bless you.
I have a E70 and I've heard a million times that this is a DEALER ONLY operation because the car needs to be "coded"? Otherwise it won't accept the battery?
A cheap scanner will do it.
Thx Much!! This was what I was looking for and straight to the point!!
Thank you very much for this video! It definitely came in handy
Well done man, that is why you pay for quality, if it was a Toyota you would recondition the engine with this amount of time lol
Mark German cars suck bro. This car won’t last 300k miles like my 4Runner could
Well said
AngelGoneWild _ what a Dumbass and uneducated statement... plenty of well over 300k German cars of all types out there and they will blow your petty 4-runner out of the water.
Thanks for thorough explanation 10/10
Hi Helping Hand. Nice video! Can you do a video on how to change front differential oil on a 2013 BMW X5 xDrive35i? Thank you.
thanks a whole lot - huge help about the warning lights - steering it left and right works
if you can recode by using ista to reset battery when changing it will help to let alternator know how to charge your new battery.
Didn’t miss a beat- well done
Thanks for the video! My 2008 BMW X5 currently won’t start and not sure why. Thought it may be the battery - was only getting 11.8v with my multimeter but it should still try to crank with a low battery or produce an error code I would think? I disconnected the ibs sensor as that apparently causes this type of problem but didn’t change anything. Any ideas?
axesomebody all lights come up on the dash correct?
Yes, all lights come on. The strange thing is when I push the start button and take my foot off the brake, I get a warning exclamation notification that the ignition is on. I can’t move the shifter out of park with foot on the brake - thought I may be able to move into N.
axesomebody doesn’t crank at all correct? You might have a bad starter.
Helping Hand Auto Repair any idea of best way to determine if that’s the problem? Would there be any error codes? Would it go all of a sudden?
axesomebody honestly there isn’t an easy way to test the starter without removing it from the car to have it tested. Short of doing that you can locate the starter and pull off the the starter solenoid signal wire (normally a single wire going into the starter solenoid)
While someone attempts to start the car use a multimeter to see if you’re getting 12v (battery voltage) at that wire. If you do get power there, there is a high possibility that the starter is bad. If you don’t get battery voltage at that wire then there could be many other issues with the starting system.
You don’t need to loosen the two 13 mm pos nuts, the outside vent isn’t a drain hole it is a vent to vent gas out of the vehicle to keep toxic gas out of the vehicle
Very Helpful Video. Thanks
Thanks....you are the man...
Good to help another
Great video. Very well done.
Brilliant tutorial. Thank you 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I had the same 4x4 message pop up on the message board and the BMW tech advised me to turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and then all the way to the right while the engine is running and the car is in park...the 4×4 and DSC lights went away immediately.
I read somewhere that it’s possible to connect a second temporary battery before disconnecting the one your replacing so that there is no loss of power to the system. Apparently this keeps the system live during the change over thus not requiring resets etc . Any thoughts out there.
Anthony hughes This is possible. I did not do this. I never have done it.
I thought about this idea when the auto part store couldnt replace the battery. Any comments?
Absolutely. It is very helpful if you are having something like a CTEK CS ONE gizmo to act as your secondary power supply unit. After the new battery installation, everything will remain as before the battery disconnection. Chances are very high that some modules will get bricked such as the CAS or FRM module as they always need constant power supply even when the engine is off and the key fob is out, that is why they are called parasitic battery drainer. Without another power supply support, you will be changing the battery with high risk of frying up something in the system, some modules or the other.
I learned the hard way. And you definitely need re-coding and registration if the new battery capacity is different from the old one, as in the crank ampere and the Ah rate of the new one. It is very easy to do if you have bimmercode and bimmerlink OBD system. BMW X5 are cool to drive but complex. Well, so is any BMW vehicle but they are quite getting simpler day by day with many newly developed gizmo to assist and avoid getting one's wallet drained dry by the dealers. 😀
Regards.
Thank you! Really good video.
Why are you replacing the Duralast Platinum?
This is a customer’s car. It was dead, so they asked me to replace it.
once u disconnect the negative cable from the battery the only thing will happen is discharging the capacitors int the individual boards circuit should your ratchet touch a ground
Can you tell us if you’ve had any issues after installing this battery over a year ago now?
joerail99 This is a customer’s car. I have installed over 40 of these batteries with no ill effects after a few years.
Helping Hand Auto Repair I changed the battery on my wife car after watching this- worked well, no issues. I saved 275 dollars
joerail99 nice! Your pockets thank you.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair I think he was talking about BMW make in particular without coding included. Im curious myself did it last longer than two years?
Yes
Awesome job
Thanks for the visit
You could easily avoid all these errors popping up by hooking up a battery charger to the + / - in the engine bay.
milosheff been over this in the video AND the comments.
BS
Absolutely. I just mentioned that earlier. CTEK CS ONE is made for such extra power supply support to avoid the system getting power starved briefly during the replacement. Many garage owners never know that and will adopt the method. A Chinese friend revealed that fact to me.
Any one know what the black and yellow cables going to the positiver terminal are for? When i purfhased my 07 e70 it wasnt plugged in.
Verry intelligent, thanks
Bloody hell! Helping a mate with his flat X5 battery. So much for being simple! Bloody Germans!
Great video, but there was still an ! on the dash after the traction control went away. What was the ! indication at the end of the video?
B Moore This car has a blown out front left headlight bulb. Not sure if that was the reason for the exclamation point.
Did you have to reprogram the battery?
Just registration and re-coding.
thanks, can I ask where is the spare tire for BMW x5, 2008? I did not find it.
It is located right in front of the battery shown in this video. It will be inside the car and not under it.
Many BMW's like mine don't come with a spare tire because these cars are equipped with run flat tires.
@@dahelmer Yes, indeed. They are.
Everyone des this the hard way. Not much slack in the cables so you should slide the battery in from the right side under the negative cables.
Thanks a lot. This really helped.
Great, helpful
The tube is a vent for gasses from the battery. Its not a "drain".😀
Well, there went all my hard work.
Just kidding.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair 🤣 all good brother! Thanks for sharing! Your video helped me, so thanks!
Thank you very much! Very helpful!
Do you know if after replacement there any resets or other stuff to do? On 2016 X3...
Nope.
You need to register the new battery.
Cool.. but any idea what the options are if your battery is totally dead and you can't open the trunk?
ElectricLuvz Yes, use the metal key located inside your key fob.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair That's how I opened the drivers door.. but no such key hole for the trunk :( This is a 2008 X5 I believe.. from what I'm reading it may be possible to open it from the inside.
ElectricLuvz Most of these cars if you squat down and look up where you stick your hand in to release the trunk there is a keyhole hiding up there. Just have a look right near where you stick your hand in to release the trunk.
I did this and once everything was put back together, my passenger airbag light and 4x4 light came on. After driving a while they won’t turn off. Do I need to take it to BMW to have them reset it or is there something else I could do?
Tristan Macke Did you watch the very end of the video? I went on a drive right after getting everything back together and had the same lights. They went away within 1 min of driving.
Tristan Macke turn the wheel lock to lock and it will go away. The car needs to relearn where the wheels are. Will happen every time you disconnect the battery.
Thank you! Saved me $$$
Thank You for the info. I did it.
What kind of battery is it? Where to buy?
You can get an AGM battery at any parts store, Costco, Walmart probably.
Thank you 😊
I was told by the dealership that my 2009 X5 30i has to be reprogrammed after replacement or the sensor will not read the battery as new and will drain it. True or false? Also, can I reprogram it myself? I was told that it has to be registered with BMW.
Hey, how did you make out?
Not reprogram but re-code and register into the system. Gone were the days when owning an automobile was very simple and easy to handle. Now the complexity is mind blowing. 😃
Hi ,Do you know what model number of battery of 2012 BMW X5 xdrive 35 i ? Do you think Costco is good place to buy? Thanks Peter
Yes Costco is fine.
Do you have a spare tire
Great video
My touchscreen won't boot up what do I need to replace
Thanks a lot
Wow 🤩 good job thanks !!😊
Thanks
Paldies par informaciju
Hallo can you help me out. My bmw died during winter time, I tried jumping it tru the back trunk where the battery is at, and it did start 1 time, then I tried jumping it again and the lights in the front started going crazy like flickering on and off , do you know what could have happen, and now the key its stuck in ignition, It's a e70 2007 x5. I will appreciate it. 🙏, that's my baby feels like I killed it and I'm so worried about it.
Did you cross up the terminals? Did they positive cable touch the body of the car? Were there sparks involved?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair no cross and didn't touch the body at all. I just left the battery charging with a jumper when I went back tried to start it and rhe lights in dash and center console started acting funny like flickering. And now not getting no power, my passenger side door is locked can't open it from the inside I'm able to open the driver side from the outside with the key but I can't get to the passenger side fuses because the door won't open from the inside, could it be a fuse blown, I took out the battery yesterday from the truck and charged it by itself and still nothing, no lights come on there is no juice, I'm gonna try taking the battery to auto zone to check if it's the battery not getting no juice at all.
@@luisgraciliano you very well could have blown the main battery fuse. Check the fuse box under hood for a large fuse 100amp or 80amp. Something along those lines to see if it blew.
Thanks
Hey I’m getting check engine light on my E70 that says low power input to the engine and battery sign is coming so will this sign go away after replacing battery and would I need to get computer restarted or will this malfunction go away on its own. Yeah I know its a noob question but I just got a 2011 X5 so just trying to get some info from someone who knows. Thanks
Low power mode? Or reduced power? If so it is probably something else engine related.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair hey yeah it was reduced power and turns out my vacuum lines were out so had them replaced and now fine, thank you though