as a tool and die maker / machinist, with zero climbing experience or aspirations I still like seeing the stuff every group of people like and how to think about my design work. i am very gear-centric on most of my hobbies and pay a ton of attention to everything i buy, i really enjoy watching others do the same, nowhere better to see it than climbing where you are staking your life on it.
I bought First•Gen Friends in 1982 ...... Ray Jardine’s Dream has developed exponentially over the years. Arguably the second most important improvement in Modern Climbing Equipment; sticky rubber being the most important advent
It's a Link Cam made by Omega Pacific. Unfortunately the Spokane, WA based company closed its door this year. (rockandice.com/climbing-news/omega-pacific-maker-of-the-link-cam-closing-up-shop/)
Thanks for explaining how double-axle cams can walk in a way that single axles don't. However, I think single-axles might walk more with lateral movement than double axle. Also, I like to clean my cams with isopropyl (avoiding any fabric), and lube then with white lightning, which is another wax-based lube. And how could you not mention super cams? 😉
Thanks for your comment! Here is an answer from Roddy (who is not in this videos, but featured in most of the Rock Climb videos): Hm, could be true! Would be fun to do some side-by-side studies of this. My not-very-scientific observation has been that the double-axle cams walk more in either scenario, but I think the shape of the crack, and the amount of surface area contact between lobes and rock, may make just as much difference as cam design. More rigorous experimentation is needed! I clean my cams as the manufacturers recommend, usually just with warm water and a stiff brush (toothbrush works), and a tiny bit of mild soap (such as Dawn) if needed. After the cams dry, I use Metolius Cam Lube, but I’ve also used regular bike chain lube (Tri-flow) and it worked fine. As for Metolius Super Cams, they are great but we worked with what they carry at our excellent local gear shop, and they sold the last of their Super Cams a couple of years ago… seems like most folks nowadays are rocking BD, Totems, Wild Country and Alien cams, in that order… but I learned to climb on TCUs and am still very fond of the Metolius brand! Made in the USA… non-anodized aluminum, better for the environment… small company, nice people!
I used WD-40 before I boiled and it was effective and didn't leave lubricant residue. I don't think there's any such thing as a lubricant that repels dirt I'm sorry. Either that or motolius oil was not that.
as a tool and die maker / machinist, with zero climbing experience or aspirations I still like seeing the stuff every group of people like and how to think about my design work.
i am very gear-centric on most of my hobbies and pay a ton of attention to everything i buy, i really enjoy watching others do the same, nowhere better to see it than climbing where you are staking your life on it.
I bought First•Gen Friends in 1982 ...... Ray Jardine’s Dream has developed exponentially over the years. Arguably the second most important improvement in Modern Climbing Equipment; sticky rubber being the most important advent
this series of videos in astonishing. How come I didn't see it before.
Thanks!
Very informative video. Good job!
Whats that 3 in 1 cam called
It's a Link Cam made by Omega Pacific. Unfortunately the Spokane, WA based company closed its door this year. (rockandice.com/climbing-news/omega-pacific-maker-of-the-link-cam-closing-up-shop/)
Please don't buy these cams if you value your life. There have been lots of serious injuries tied to these.
Thanks for explaining how double-axle cams can walk in a way that single axles don't. However, I think single-axles might walk more with lateral movement than double axle. Also, I like to clean my cams with isopropyl (avoiding any fabric), and lube then with white lightning, which is another wax-based lube. And how could you not mention super cams? 😉
Thanks for your comment! Here is an answer from Roddy (who is not in this videos, but featured in most of the Rock Climb videos):
Hm, could be true! Would be fun to do some side-by-side studies of this. My not-very-scientific observation has been that the double-axle cams walk more in either scenario, but I think the shape of the crack, and the amount of surface area contact between lobes and rock, may make just as much difference as cam design. More rigorous experimentation is needed! I clean my cams as the manufacturers recommend, usually just with warm water and a stiff brush (toothbrush works), and a tiny bit of mild soap (such as Dawn) if needed. After the cams dry, I use Metolius Cam Lube, but I’ve also used regular bike chain lube (Tri-flow) and it worked fine. As for Metolius Super Cams, they are great but we worked with what they carry at our excellent local gear shop, and they sold the last of their Super Cams a couple of years ago… seems like most folks nowadays are rocking BD, Totems, Wild Country and Alien cams, in that order… but I learned to climb on TCUs and am still very fond of the Metolius brand! Made in the USA… non-anodized aluminum, better for the environment… small company, nice people!
@@videoracles thanks for taking the time to reply. I'm really enjoying the channel!
I used WD-40 before I boiled and it was effective and didn't leave lubricant residue. I don't think there's any such thing as a lubricant that repels dirt I'm sorry. Either that or motolius oil was not that.
Downside! Downside! Downside!!!!!