Gear Placement on Lead
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- Опубліковано 25 бер 2020
- Gear Placement on Lead
rockclimb.video
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About this video:
Gear Placement in Trad Climbing:
- Sometimes the 1st piece needs to be multi-directional
- Place lots of gear at the start of the climb
- Place gear from a good stance whenever possible
- Keep the rope outside your legs whenever possible
- Decide how far to place the gear relative to your tie-in point (the higher above the tie-in point, the more rope you pull out and the further down you'll fall before the rope catches you)
- When to place more gear depends:
- Distance from ground, ledges, etc.
- Cruxes
- Extend the gear to prevent:
- The rope from running over the rock
- A bend in the rope
- The piece from walking
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Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum information in a concise way that is easy to understand and assimilate. For that reason most chapters are built on the knowledge acquired in previous ones (e.g., Rope Basics → Top-Roping → Lead Climbing → Sport Climbing → Trad. Climbing).
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Rock climbing is fun but there is an element of risk. In some situations if you are not careful, the chances of serious injury or death are very real. A safety oriented mindset is essential.
The right attitude includes not thinking that just by watching videos and reading articles you will become a safe and experienced climber. Experience comes with practice. Practice means making occasional mistakes and learning from them.
We believe qualified in-person training should be the main way of learning and progressing in rock climbing. A good mentor, guide or teacher will make learning as safe as it can be, by assessing your level and every situation.
Our videos are meant to inform and entertain. Although our videos can be very helpful, they are not meant to replace in-person teaching by a qualified professional, nor they are meant to replace reading and understanding the instructions and manuals of rock climbing equipment-which we strongly advise you to do. (Manufacturers recommendations occasionally change, and it is a good idea to stay updated by visiting their websites.)
Have fun and be safe out there! - Спорт
I've got to say this is a really clear and excellent instructional video for trad climbing. Well done and thanks for taking the time to share your experience.
Thanks!
One of the best gear placement videos I've seen. I really like how you explain the thinking on each gear placement!
The first 4 minutes is probably the most concise instruction I've ever seen. Great stuff!
Thank you!
thanks for explaining why a nut as the first placement is bad in some cases. I had a friend tell me that but I never asked why and now I know :)
Glad it was helpful! It’s the goal of these videos!
Love how you make it look so easy. Just crushing that pitch and calmly instructing definitively and without any extra fluff.
I love the longer and "uncut" videos. Can you do more longer videos like this, show a lot of different placement scenarios? :D This channel will explode!
Thanks! More videos coming, some longer and some with "uncut" style when it fits the topic. There will be some specific videos on how to place trad gear.
@@videoracles agree on the fantastic video, disagree on the uncut style, I really liked the editing style here which is sharp and concise.
Excellent video - basically a masterclass but on rock inside of in a classroom. Your videos and teaching are great! Climbing and teaching at the same time 👍 👍
Your videos are the best instruction on trad that I have seen on youtube, and I've seen a lot! I like switching the video perspective from first to third person, and you go over thoroughly the decisions and circumstances a lead climber faces. 10/10, please keep up the great content. I wouldn't mind contributing a little to your channel too, if you have a page like that (JB Mountain skills have people buy him coffee). Fantastic job, thanks!
Thanks for your comment, appreciated! More to come!
Best, clearest explanation of trad climbing I've ever seen.
An actually good trad climbing video on youtube. Thank you. Liked and subscribed.
Thank you!
Might be the best trad videos out there..
This video is fantastic. People often focus on how to place gear, but that is only a small portion of trad climbing. The execution and rational of where to place gear on lead is something that is often underappreciated. A great placement won't help if your still going to deck or hit a ledge.
What’s so good about this video, is that we get a real time perspective on someone explaining their rationale and reason for why they’re doing it, as they’re doing it . Super useful
Great video. The rationale for each placement (vs just the placement itself) is a really good teaching tool.
Thank you!
For me it was very impressive to watch somebody, who is climbing and placing his gear so brilliant and cool. Respect !!!
Thanks for sharing this video
I watch tons of videos of people placing gear as they climb. This is the first video I've seen that actually explains the how's and why's. Thanks for a very informative video.
Probably some of the best instructional videos! Great editing for showing different scenarios. Would love to see longer routes with more options for gear placements!
Great stuff, thanks for the calm explanation. I'm from the Netherlands, and if I go outdoorclimbing is almost always in the Ardennes (Belgium). There's little to no trad (which I know of), most of the sportroutes are well bolted. Sometimes we practice gear placement on a bolted route, but it'll never be the same I guess. We're planning to go tradclimbing in Scotland later this year, so I'll check more of your vids. Thanks again
Amazing. It's a shame the best people like you are the least inclined to make the obnoxious clickbait-y content. So many hyped videos that I've wasted my time on when there's content like this hiding in the shadows. Liked and subbed because your videos should be getting loads more exposure!
Thank you! We do our best to make the concepts and techniques easy to understand and remember. Thanks for the sub and like!
Nicely explained and the gear placements were well visible. 5/5, thanks!
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
Beautifully illustrated. Thanks for this!
Been bouldering for a year with my close homie, just got top rope certified at my gym and I cannot wait to start climbing outdoors 🔥
one of the best. simple and direct
Fantastic - you impart a lot of good info, cleary and efficiently. Thank you!
One of the best explanations of the considerations of trad climbing. Thank you!
cheers for this really well made and very much appreciated - happy climbing
Best video Ive seen to demonstrate the intro to trad. Very detailed and calm! Made me want to go out and get after it. Thanks!
Great video and I love your pace, thanks
I gotta say this was a great, instructional video
glad i just discovered this channel, great info for trad beginners thanks
Great video. You are an excellent teacher.
Thank you! Excellent video!
Fantastic video. So much to be learned by watching you coach us through this single climb.
Thank you. 2024 and still a very useful video for learning trad. Kudos!
Great video. I'm envious of you being able to get the right piece first time every placement!
This is a great video! You are a gifted teacher, as well! Thanks!
By far the best how to trad climb video I've seen.
One of the very best trad tactics videos I’ve seen… more please!
very clear and very useful ! thank you!
This guy is the best, so easy to listen to.
Brilliant! I'm trying to get into trad climbing, and it was so helpful to get your thought process.
Great video. Nicely explained.
The is one of the best tutorial I have watched, money shot right there
Your climbing skills are overlooked 🙌 thanks for a great video!
Very helpful video, thank you!
Lovely video! I’m new to outdoor sport climbing and plan to start very carefully tinkering mock trad lead later and getting some instruction - you made that all look easy!
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing!
Many thanks, this has been tremendously insightful :))))
really well done. thx for this!
Excellent teacher.. Excellent vids.. Thank you..
You are welcome!
Damn your videos are well made and thought. So much experienced quality information. Good job to you guys!
Thank you!
I really enjoyed this video, been watching a bunch of climbing how-to vids in my free time recently to brush up on rope/climbing skills for the upcoming season and this is one of the best so far. Hits a lot of important points. Well done 👍
Thanks!
Thank you! 💪
great video, thanks!
Hand jamming in Joshua tree with no gloves or tape. You know this man knows what he’s doing. Haha
Apart from great instruction; this route looks cool!
This video is great 👍
well filmed and with good sound! good job!
Thanks!
Excellent video! 10:27 be aware of bending carabiners over a rock edge, you can realistically break carabiners in half from lead fall forces if they are levered like that.
Thank you! Below is Roddy's answer, and here is a videos about Extending Gear: ua-cam.com/video/PhheWAqVHtc/v-deo.html
Yes! I don’t think it’s a concern in this particular scenario… but a good thing to keep in mind! Watch out for scenarios with a pronounced edge, where the carabiner is being levered sharply, as when you break a stick over your knee. In this case the direction of pull would be mostly tangential to a rounded slab, rather than perpendicular to an edge. On a related note, I have seen a rope cut all the way through the sheath in a fall onto a cam where no sling or draw was used for extension, and the rope was pinched by the carabiner against the edge of the crack… yikes! Be careful out there!
@@videoracles Thanks for the response, you're right it is more of a smooth slab.
Yikes that's scary! Crack climbing does introduce a lot more weird carabiner loading situations in a fall, good to be hyper vigilant of where the hardware and rope lie.
This guy is fucking climbing and teaching like it’s nothing. Absolute veteran
Great video!!!
Thank you!
This looks like Touch and Go. That's a fun one
great videos !
super good enough
Thx for showing this! :)
You're welcome!
From Australia...well done. And no rap soundtrack...thank goodness. I will subscribe.
Thank you!
Touch and Go! Was just there a couple weeks ago. Toughest Josh 5.9 I've done, particularly the start. You just glided right up - nice climbing! Amazing tips! I'll try to remember them on my first lead there next week. Any suggestions other than Sail Away or Double Cross? Awesome video!
Thank you! There are so many great routes in Joshua Tree! If you haven't already, you could get "Joshua Tree Rock Climbs" by Robert Miramontes. You can also get it on the rakkup app.
great video, when im lead climbing you would think im scaling the north face with as much gear as i place, but for me its peace of mind lol
Nice video
You made that look easy
Amazing how you can look at a crack and know what size placement it is, not make errors, and place it in 1 second. Goals. Although I'm sure youre familiar with the route and that helps.
Hi Madhav, thanks for the comment. Here is Roddy's reply:
Yes, learning to see the placements is one of the most important parts of becoming an efficient trad leader! But I do still make errors sometimes :)
nice climbing commentary!
Thanks!
Haha so, I just went to Joshua Tree and climbed this route, expecting it to be a breeze because of this video and how casual it looked… spoiler it wasn’t easy. To be fair it was super cold and windy and I could barely feel my hands by the top. Either way, nice work making this look so casual, also this channel is by far the best instructional trad and other training videos out there. Really appreciated from someone who can’t afford a guide!
Which climb is this?
@@GregSidberry Touch & Go in Joshua Tree - 5.9
Great video! What route is this?
That JTree granite will eat up your skin too. Made it look easy.
Awesome video! But it's more fun to analyze and criticize. I would've flipped the 'biner on the #3 so its gate wasn't facing the edge of the offset.
Personally, I'm happy to gambit the slightly shorter fall that a piece placed above my head provides, and nearly always opt to place chest height, when I can. The rope gets in the way of both hands and feet (instead of just feet). Plus it's easier to inspect and place a good piece in front. When placing in front, I can just place, clip, inspect and be done with it. When placing above, I'm always kind of tempted to double-check if there isn't something I didn't see from below that makes my placement not as good as I expected. The overall flow of my kind suffers and feels less efficient.
LIke the comment about the 1st piece. I also place nuts sometimes early on, but seems some people see it as some sort of cardinal sin.
Wish I could get into Trad climbing. I’ve sport climbed outside frequently for years but I’m still to scared to try trad.
Such a good trad great placement video. Got my sub. What's the climb? Looks like j tree🤙
Thank you! It's Touch and Go in Joshua Tree.
@@videoracles sweet. Hoping to get there again this year.
It's such a beautiful place. Reach out to Roddy if you want a guide, he knows JT really well! climbwithroddy.com
@@videoracles thanks for the guide beta. This will be my 3rd visit and got it mapped out pretty well in my head and I have 3 guide books there. I'll keep him in mind if I do an organized trip there. J tree has been a contingency plan for my Red Rock Canyon LV trips. Last trip it rained a day in Vegas so we just drove to j tree to give the sandstone a chance to dry. J tree is magical. 🤙
As an average joe this looks like something i could do while having fun safely, at the same time enjoy the out door.
All these El capitan thingy are wayyyy too intense looking
Cool! Have fun and be safe!
Your videos are excellent! I wonder about saying On Belay at the start, since even if you are connected, you are not on Belay until you clip. Should it be On the rope or something?
Roddy's reply:
Hm yes I hear this a lot lately, I think it's something that has emerged from gym culture. The safety check and exchange of verbal cues-On belay, belay on, climbing, climb on-is a ritual that takes place before you begin the lead. It's true that prior to clipping the first piece, your belayer might not be able to catch you with the rope-but they have given you their word that they are ready and paying attention. So, you are on belay. In some situations they should be spotting you and/or helping keep the rope out from underfoot... or preventing the rope from snagging on stuff... even if you haven't clipped anything, your partner is 'on duty' in whatever way necessary, once you've exchanged those magic words.
Great video! What route is this in Joshua tree?
Thank you! It’s Touch and Go.
@@videoracles thank you for getting back to me.
Which route is this? Looks fun! Also do you do any Josh guiding?
It's Touch and Go. Yes, Roddy McCalley guides in Joshua Tree among other places. You can learn more about his guiding here: climbwithroddy.com
Finally got on it today. You made it seem easy hahaha. New project
weve all done it
Nice video but seems like a nut (or tricam) would have been bomber in that last flared horizontal break rather than another cam! But good to show the walking risk of cams
Roddy's reply:
Hi Robert,
Yep I bet you could place something else there! You nailed it though-I chose that cam placement to show how they can walk in a spot like that.
Best,
Roddy
4:13 is that a stuck cam in the right crack?
I was wondering how you keep the first piece from popin out.
why not use the carabiner that's on the cam for the sling compared to adding another biner to the same cam for protection?
From Roddy:
Mainly for ease of racking the sling on the leader's harness or gear sling. Also, it leaves the option of clipping short or extending the sling, depending on whether the priority is to reduce falling distance or to reduce rope drag. When cutting weight for alpine routes (on which you're often clipping long to reduce rope drag on wandering pitches anyway) I bring some of my slings with just one carabiner, to be carried over one shoulder and clipped to the cam with the racking carabiner. On that sort of trip I might bring six slings with two carabiners each, and six with just one.
Looks like Joshua Tree, what route is the name of that climb?
It’s Touch and Go in Joshua Tree.
9:41 would using a nut instead of a cam prevent the walking issue in that specific situation or would it have the same problem?
With that angle out right and then back to the crack, a nut could have similar issues. Probably not as severe as a cam's lobes being pushed back, but definitely still a possibility
Roddy's reply:
Hi Andrew,
A good nut that is set with a solid yank would probably stay in place. Especially if you use a sling so the rope isn't wiggling it much.
We wanted to demonstrate the potential for a cam to walk.
Best,
Roddy
Did the climber say "on belay" and while not being belayed since he was still on the ground and not yet clipped onto a draw?
Here are links with more information on this command:
ua-cam.com/video/gxfGI0AGEMA/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/pZoyqXTfWn0/v-deo.html
rockclimb.videoracles.com/articles/commands/
What route is this? Assuming somewhere in JT.
@5:46 I’d prefer to keep the rope between me and the wall for an even cleaner fall. In other words, on the other side of your legs.
This.
basic question...how do these nuts and cams? stick to the rock? why dont they come lose
Where is this climb and what’s it called?
What route are you on?
He does look like tom cruise though
:o)
This video is bomber
What route is this?
Alex Honnold: Nah I'm good
What route is this? Looks like joshua tree
It's Touch and Go in Joshua Tree.
@@videoracles thanks, great vid by the way. Any chance you can do a vid on some of the really run out sketchy climbs in joshua tree? Did a multi pitch called right on, first pitch had like 3 pieces of pro in a span of like 90 ft.