Not really sure what happened to me today. I clicked on a video of you sharpening knives and only when it was over did I realize it was a 45 minute video, lol. Now here it is 3 hours later and I'm subscribed and binge watching. I love knives, own a ton of them (some actually very nice) so I'm off to Amazon to order some sharpening stones!
@@davidduffy9806 sorry for the zombie lol. A cheap amazon stone is fine for getting into it. Dont think you need a $100 stone. Those 400/1000 grit slurry stones rebranded everywhere are fair quality for the price ($10-15~) and a good enough range of grit to do what most beginners need/want from a single cheap stone. Starting off with an expensive stone is like buying a $50 paintbrush when your peak is stick figures.
In my experience and opinion, the most accurate and revealing way to find out how quickly your stone has gone out of flat is to, after sharpening, make crosshatch pencil marks across the complete surface of the stone and then use your flattening plate and see exactly where the wear pattern is. I have done this with sharpening my woodworking tools for years, and it provides the best feedback on stone wear without any guesswork.
@Nunya Business -- That's just as well because -- perhaps it's just clickbait, but the title is just wrong. If your stone is dished, it definitely needs flattening. Like Geoff, I do the crosshatch and flatten with a diamond stone.
In my experience, a lot depends on which knife you're sharpening, for what. Doing heavier work on low grits saves a LOT of stone. If you know you damaged your edge, do not be afraid to "ruin the polish" by going to a 140. Take 20 strokes on low grit as opposed to 300 on a 1k. And don't damage your knives!
If it's a really nice knife and you don't want to damage the finish on a lower grit stone (in case you slip or something, it happens) you can always put some painter's tape or scotch tape around the rest of the knife.
@@TheLargeHardonCollider ---- Scotch tape may leave chemical traces that tarnish some metals. Same for masking tape. However, 3M makes a purplish easy-to-remove 2" wide tape that won't change the metal. There may be other tapes, too. So, yeah, if you have a "damascus pattern" knife, or a high polish stainless, use that low-glue tape. I was referring to the polish on the bevel itself, that a lower grit stone will haze. The big "scratcher" of blades is a little plastic angle thingy. Very useful for checking your angle, but any stray slurry will get on it, then when you lay the knife flat on it, any motion will leave scratches.
@@davesmith5656 Yeah I will clean off the entire blade with alcohol if I do that to remove any residue immediately after. The purple tape is essentially the same as the blue painter's tape I was talking about, but I see what you're saying that it has even milder adhesive. Great advice on the little plastic angle guides! I never thought about that, ty.
@@TheLargeHardonCollider --- Yes, sorry I missed that you said "painter's tape". I (erroneously) mind-jumped to masking tape. I stained a blade with plan Scotch tape, and nothing I've tried so far has removed the darkened areas (acetone, WD 40, soap - no big deal, it's sharp). Magic "Invisible" Scotch tape is great for paper and all, but not for knives, lol.
Thank you for doing this video, it's revealing. I'm new to stones, at least I haven't used them in years. I was using a Tormek in the past, and lost it, and I've decided to switch to stones because I've switched to Japanese knives and steel, and need more control. I can't comment from experience, but flattening importance would seem to me to depend on how you sharpen. I watched a tutorial with Dave( I think that's his name) from knife merchant, and he uses a style where he holds the knife parallel to the length of the stones, and I'm going to give that way a try first, after I get my Japanese water stones. I would have to guess this will only work on flattened stones. With the style your using, I can't see any benefit to constantly flattening the stones, and it seems like it would at least slightly, reduce the lifespan of the stone, if you're constantly flattening them. The main thing for me, is not to get get stuck in my ways, and to always be learning, and finding ways to get better at sharpening.
Something else worth considering - I don't know if you have covered this Ryky, I might have missed it - but the odds are that our new sharpening stones are not perfectly flat coming from the manufacturer. I just checked my new Chosera 1000, that I used once, with the pencil crosshatch flattening technique I mentioned below. Using my DMT Dia-Flat Plate on the Chosera, I found it had a dramatic and pronounced high-centered hump running the length of the stone, which I now know is why I got a less than perfect sharpening experience the first time I used it. For me this feedback is invaluable because once the stone is truly flat, I can then completely concentrate on my sharpening technique and eliminate another variable in getting a perfect edge. I am not a master knife maker like Murray Carter, who actually *can* get a great perfect edge from his irregular stones (he - CarterCutlery - has a video on UA-cam about this that is a good watch - it might be over there on the right). He has spent years and years perfecting his muscle memory and kinesthetic skills to feel his knife edges and get those results. I want fast, predictable and satisfying results so I can fully enjoy the knives I have invested in as amazing tools, and get back to making the food I love with semi-mad knife skills. :) And, I need my sharpening stones dead flat because I use them for my knives as well as my plane blades and chisels.
This is why when I first got into sharpening, I went straight to a guided angle system. They allow even an amateur to achieve a fantastic razor's edge in no time. Even tho I've also moved on to larger un-guided DMT diamond stones that I use "freehand", I still normally use angle wedge accessories with them to ensure I'm getting an extremely consistent & accurate angle. I've finally gotten practiced enough I can start to "feel" what angle I'm at with accuracy. And my old roommate left me some of his actually-wet whetstones, and now I finally want to try them. Very interesting techniques OP here shows, I did some of them before but he's shown many me new ones. I especially like how he "strops" on the same stone, or a brick covered with newspaper! (But to anybody else, you don't have to be afraid of spending years to learn proper knife sharpening! Make it easy on yourself, get a guided-angle system to start with. If you like it you'll eventually end up with all sorts of sharpening stones & tools anyway.)
I think Ryky mentioned that new stones may come with some kind of a "surface finish". I broke down and bought an expensive high grit stone, and have found that even with using a nagura, it is changing after six or seven light uses, behaving better, with better feel.
Spyderco stones, the actual lap or bench stones, are infamous for this. I've never seen a Spyderco stone that was flat on both edges... Most aren't even flat on either. It's saying something when you can put a stone down on float glass and push each corner (on both sides) and the stone lifts/rocks around. And, of course, if you go on the Spyderco forums it's like walking into a Flat Earth Conference and announcing to the crowd that the Earth is a globe. They'll hear none of it... despite clear evidence from tons of people, not just me, showing that... yeah, Spyderco can't flatten their bench stones worth a hoot.
The flattening or cleaning the stone depends on the stone itself. I was using my old King 1000 (not Deluxe version) for sharpening all my knifes every two months and I never cleaned up the stone with Nagura or so. The stone had a pretty nice "bath" shape which was pretty impossible to sharpen on, I decided to flatten the stone with chinese whetstone grit probably 200 and it took about 20mins to completely flatten my King. This is of course the worst case scenario but it would be impossible to flatten with Nagura, therefore a flattening stone is good for the extreme. Now I have replaced the King by the recommended Cerax 1010 and it's a completely different stone which I'm always cleaning up with a Nagura stone :) Lesson learned.
Technically you could've still sharpened on that. All you need is 1 flat spot in the stones to sharpen on. If you had a bathtub effect then the walls around would be high and flat. You can use then to make contact with any part of the knife you choose. What your sharpening could come into play as well
You are right but I didn't have exactly a bathtub shape, it was more like a U shape with the flat spot less than 1cm long (by the longest whetstone side). It was sharpening still very nice but it wasn't so comfortable and it was much harder to keep the proper angle.
@@sonecborec ---- I'm about three years into knife sharpening (my hobby) and I'm finding all kinds of "subtle differences", everywhere, in knives and stones and in strops. My latest is about varying pressures used for different steels. I'm guessing that pro chefs who need "very sharp" for smooth sushi slices have developed such discrimination that they have ONE knife, and maybe two stones.
I had to flatten a stone of mine I lent to someone to re-hone a flat surface and somehow it ended up getting used as a beater stone. Still an expensive stone and I am in the process of hand scraping and stoning my bedways on my lathe. If you are sharpening a knife I'd plane it once it's uncomfortable or you cannot stand looking at the bow anymore. Wood chisels whenever you sharpen your chisel and it still will not make clean crisp cuts. If you are using it for precision work you are inspecting on a surface plate with a surface gauge flatten it everytime before and after. Its only my opinion and you can do what you want but I think those are reasonable guidelines.
So I’m with you, I rarely flatten stones maybe once or twice in their entire lives outside of single bevel knives. The only exception for me, oddly, is my Shapton Pro 120. I use it as a correcting stone for chips, tips, horrible previous sharpening attempts, etc. I’ve found that when used in that regard, it develops odd tracks in the surface that do impact results and make for an annoying task. I still only flatten it 1/10 or so uses but for me that’s a lot. I actually have an old Naniwa Economical stone that is severely dished like 5mm low at the bottom and I can still get a clean edge using it.
Can I ask, do ceramic and glass stones ever need flattening, the ones in question are the Shapton range? It's a subject I've never really been able to find out. Love the channel and best wishes from here in the UK.
I just recently got a King kw65 stone (1000/6000, a smaller version of KDS I think, BTW I mostly chose it thanks to you positive reviews :D ), this is my first water stone and I'm kind of lost on how to maintain it properly. Should I use a plate or dressing stone? Does dressing stone grit matter? Do I buy whatever cheap crap or should I choose carefully? Ryky, you said in some of your videos that you avoid soaking KDS 6000 side or it doesn't cut. Do you just splash it or soak lightly? I kind of feel it doesn't cut much too, but then I'm new to this and don't even have much success forming a burr on 1000 (maybe because the knives haven't been "shaped" on a stone before). If you have any wisdom to share on using a King KDS, you're welcome. Also, what's your opinion on using honing rods to maintain knives? I noticed you do have them.
I know its been 3 years but I figured I would reply anyways. You aren't supposed to soak the 6000 grit side on the King KW65 or the KDS. You use the 6000 grit side like a splash and go stone. You only need to soak the 1000 grit side. King has posted these instructions online if you want to look. They say that soaking any of their finishing stones above 3000 grit may result in cracking or breaking.
IDK the conclusion of this experiment yet. Keeping the stone flat is paramount for straight razors. Straight razor honing is a little easier than knife sharpening and honing, as you don't need to develop a "feel" for the edge being on the stone. The spine and edge of a razor are both on the stone at all times. I'm kind of anxious to see the outcome here😂
It looked to me that the non-flattened stone blade was ever so slightly sharper. And this would make sense since you are flattening a curved edge on a (slightly) dished stone. A curved edge on a perfectly flat stone will have one tiny point of contact. But a curved edge on a worn dished stone will have a larger area of contact to greater effect - and BTW there also looked to be more metal removed. In any case if you were sharpening a perfectly straight edge (eg. a straight razor or straight edged knife) you would need a perfectly flat stone - especially if you plan to use more than one stone in the process.
I've never deburred before - wasn't even aware it was a thing. I thought that's what stropping on a compound strop was supposed to do. Is there a noticeable difference? I may have to start keeping champagne corks for use after sharpening.
@@applepiesapricots3109 --- Very definitely more than one way to skin a cat, and many cats to skin. Knives vary, and steels vary, angles vary, and different knives seem to react differently to different stones and strops.
Cool, I'm ok with flattening if I can use the house's concrete wall or garden stones laying around or roof ceramics and brick laying around coz' good sharpening whetstones are expensive X-D. God bless.
yup. you can. i've shown a few times you can flatten on flat sidewalk. you can do the same. just use another stone to lap to remove left over rough areas
They're your stones Ryky...do to them whatever works best for you...what works for one person may not work for the next...On the rare occasion I use my softer wet stones, I put them on a flat surface, and if I can slide a business card under it without catching...they get flattened.
Can you do (or do you already have) a short video on you basic sharpening equipment, like the sink bridge and stone holder? Or, just a short reply? Thank you.
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS MAN! I work in a kitchen and i recently started getting into knife sharpening. I sharpen all our knives at work and my boss is thinking of dropping our usually knife sharpener and might just pay me instead. Question: Do you have experience with using your skill to make money? Like your own type of side business for some extra cash?
that's awesome Kenn, i hope you can do it and earn some money while you are at it. regarding your question, i don't have the time to sharpen other people's knives, so, no.
Whats the benefit of not flattening more often? For me when i dont do it for a while, i have to spend a lot more time flattening. Because you are going to have to flatten it sooner or later. And for most you end up with a dished out middle. And it takes forever to bring the ends and sides down when not done regularly. And i agree that you need a flat stone to easier maintain a consistent angle while sharpening. Especially for a beginner. I dont think not flattening prolongs the life of the stone. And to flatten you are going to be spending as much time doing it. A lot of quick touch ups if done every time or every other time. Or a long boring tiring flattening session if it is not done after many sharpenings. Of course, to each his own...but for me...wash and dry your knife after each use and maintain your edge and stones regularly. Touching up a knife only takes a few minutes and very minimal dishing will occur. in that case you can go longer without flattening. i can get my edge hair popping sharp with just a few passes on the 800 then the 5k then the strop. Usually i just strop on the 5k a few times then on the leather. I never have to spend more than a few minutes. After penciling the stone and flattening it so many times, i know about how long to flatten without the use of a pencil. It really is a very quick easy process when you learn how to do it.
chuckyz2 not trying to create an argument but it appears Murray Carter doesn't flatten his. I could be wrong and tried to find the video he made but couldn't
there is NOTHING wrong with flattening your stone once in a while, or after every sharpening. the point i am making, is that you don't need a "flat" stone to get a knife sharp. but for plane tools and wood working tools, and sushi knives, that is a different story. i was talking about "normal" chef knives.
There really is no benefit to flattening. I think there are very very very few people who use a sharpening stone would ever think about flattening their stones. It's just no need for free handing sharpening.
@@BennyCFD I guess you are not into toilet paper slicing edges. And that's fine. I usw mine for chisels, plane blades, knives, kitchen and camping. I couldn't work with a concaved stone. For so many reasons. But none of them would matter to you so I'll leave it at that.
Well I dont have flat stones. As Ryky I go all over the stone to keep it as flat as possible. I tried to flatten my stone once, and I ended up wasting a lot of material, and I couldn’t see any improvement
Hey burrfection, I have a question, I’m thinking about buying the atoma for flattening my stones, what happened when it loses it cutting on the atoma, where can I buy replacement plates at? Affordable is a must. Thank you.
I know this is an old video, but I watched this street food chef lady that had a stand open for like 40 years. She had a gigantic whetstone and sharpened her knives every morning. The stone looked like a mini Grand Canyon. She never once flattened that thing and got her knives screaming sharp every morning. It's really just abrasion. If you have the movement down for the curves in the stone it doesn't matter.
Thanks. I suspect that pros who need "sharp" have experimented around the block a few times to end up with one knife and maybe two stones - and they know how.
I thought this was going to be using a stone for maybe 100 times before flattening. It also depends how you sharpen. My father used to sharpen a knife point first along the length of the stone and after years of using the same stones there would be a groove worn on the stone about half way through it while around this groove some places looked almost untouched.
I know the real answer to this issue. There was an old man where I lived who went door to door sharpening for people. He would sharpen knifes with two edges on stones that were in my eyes worn beyond any flat shape. Hand him a tool like a chisel a plane iron pair of scissors and out comes the flat stones he obviously kept pretty flat. There really is no reason to have a stone be very flat for knifes with a curved blade and two edges besides technique.
Burrfection thank you for your reply!! I am a sushi Chef, and I am curious about the victorinox forscher 14 inches blade cimetar, I use to only use japanese knives, but I've notice at all processing Tuna factories they use those cimetar knives and seem to work pretty well if possible could you do a video of that knife..... thanks!!
For sharpening stones i like Naniwa’s dressing stone the best burrfectionstore.com/products/naniwa-dressing-stone-600 It cleans well and does not wear down too fast
If you flatten before or after every use, if you sharpen professionally or on a very regular basis, won't your stones run out much much faster? I basically never flatten unless i'm doing chisel edges or flats. Does anybody know the actual rate of degradation from flattening every day? How much faster will the stone wear down compared to no flattening.
I made myself a vanadis 10 pouder steel knive (around 64 HRC) and it ate my 6000 polishing stone like nothing. I felt like the knive is just cutting out the stone without getting sharp. I can really hear the stone getting carved out by the knife.
Try a different stone. You have to match stones to knives, to some extent, steel are different, and stones are made of different materials and treated differently in the making. If your 6k is like my 6k, it's a softer stone. You could try a New Chosera 5k (hard) or a Suehiro 8k (hard) or any other hard stone - I think ceramic is what you want, but I'm not sure at all.
@@davesmith5656 Chosera and Suehiro can't cut vanadis 10 because it contains too much vananium carbides. There are some materials that can cut vanadium carbide, but aluminum oxide or silicon carbide that consist Chosera are not. You should use diamonds stones or CBN stones.
@@rumjungdokja ---- Corundum (aluminum oxide) has a 9.0 hardness on the Mohs scale, while Vanadiumn has a 7.5 and chromium has 8.5 hardness on the same scale. I have no problem sharpening HRC 66 steel on any of the whetstones I have. Some stones are "softer", which means that the particles break free from the binder more easily.
@@davesmith5656 Vanadium is 7.5 but vanadium carbide is different material. most of vanadium in blade is vanadium carbide which hardness is 9.5, and vanadis10 have about 10 percent of vanadium carbide.
Hi I watch you vedio & i have a question , can i flaten all kind of wetstone by sandpaper . I have the king kds 1000/6000 and both sides have unflat surfes, can i also flat ceramic stones with sand paper Thank you
would it not matter what type of steel is being sharpened? Harder more expensive steel more strokes to achieve sharpness versus softer steel less strokes?
Softer steel may even require more time because as softer steel will give and bend, instead of flaking off the cutting edge. Historically, i have always had a tough time sharpening cheaper soft knives
Are you sharpening scandi vex grinds or straight razors. I’d not then yea I don’t level either. When I sharpen my straight razor and bushcraft knife I level.
The knife sharpened with non flattened stone is clearly sharpener than the other (you can notice it by the fact that he had way more difficult starting cutting the paper with the "flattened" knife). So don't flat your stones.
Burrfection My theory about a possible explanation is that the stone is simply assuming the shape of the knife, which is not flat, but curved, since you don't sharpen it with 0 degree angle, so the non flattened stone is probably doing a better job at keeping contact with the shape of the blade than the flattened.
Well dayum there went an unnecessary $80 yesterday for ordering a A-120 Extra Large Naniwa Flattening Stone. But isn't the little brown nagura stone you use every time also a flatening stone? They're called finishing stones but aren't they the same thing? Thanks Ryky.
hahah. GOOD CHOICE! if you are OK with the base, i would go with the current Chosera 3000 amzn.to/2iHA2Uw, as opposed to the "professional" it's the same stone, but thinner, and without a base, and costs MORE!
You're simply creating more work for future you by putting off flattening your stones until you can see a concave formation. Take your flattening stone and just run it once or twice after you've finished doing a knife... Takes literally 5-10 seconds and saves you minutes or hours of work later. I honestly have no idea how the hell you're getting a consistent angle if you don't flatten your stones until it looks like someone has scooped out part of the stone... *_because you actually have._*
You know it really doesn't matter if you flatten or not. There are people all over the world, and your fathers and grand fathers who never flatten their stones who sharpen their knives to a very sharp edge. I think this whole flattening thing is nothing more than a UA-cam phenomenon that people like to talk about. Great if you do and great if you don't.
I am wondering what anime is on your shelf in the background. I am a huge anime lover and always looking for new anime. I have watched a ton of your videos. I love them all. You are very informative about how to and when to do things. You give details and that's always something so many other people leave out.your doing a great job and thank you. Keep the great videos up and as always can't wait for the next one. 😁 have a great day.
here are my top picks look at the chosera 800, 3000, for non-soaking for soaking, the cerax 1000 and rika 5000 all 4 stones can handle knives over 62 HRC Top Soaking Whetstone #320 goo.gl/AGa9km #1000 amzn.to/2cwLxWB #1000 goo.gl/wZ94xk #1000 amzn.to/2d0Th9x #5000 goo.gl/LJfGHv #5000 amzn.to/2i7wJFk #1000/6000 amzn.to/2dmxDMZ Top Splash-n-go Whetstones #120 amzn.to/2gAEZIN #320 amzn.to/2gABXEA #800 amzn.to/2d4esno #3000 amzn.to/2dmCity #6000 amzn.to/2hPGsk0 #8000 amzn.to/2vUMB4C #16,000 amzn.to/2lA9bHu #30,000 amzn.to/2lA0FIi
Burrfection look at popular buchcraft knives. Morakniv is a great start with the scandi grind. Most hunting and Bushcraft knives go hand in hand, so you can cover both sides. Cold steel Master Hunter is a great knife as well. Skinning knives are different due to the belly shape. The Boker Rhino has the belly I am talking about.
theres a video on YT where they show the stones of an old katana polishing master. his stones are all polygonal...many sharpeningfacets on it, not just two like on our stones.
You should do more research before making a silly comment. By not flattening your stones, you will produce a convex edge on the blade. Katanas are sharpened with a convex edge. That's why they do not flatten their stones. If you want a flat ground V edge, it's not crucial to keep the stones perfectly flat, but if you very heavily dish your stone out, you will sacrifice a degree of sharpness. Like Ryky says in the video, the only time you really need a perfectly flat stone, is with a single bevel Japanese knife.
a perfectly flat stone is only needed for razors, sushiknifes and carpentertools. the give of your hand creates a more konvex edge than a not perfectly flattened stone....do some maths on it. If you are not able to create a perfect kitchenknife edge on a unflattened whetstone, you should maybe get some practice first.
Ryky is 100% unless you're doing single edge knives or plane tools, you do not need to keep stones flat. Period. Unless it develops uneven surfaces. Dishing isn't even an issue for double edge
45 minutes for a stone sharpening video? The Japanese say to flatten your stones, so I"m sticking with that but I don't do it every single time I sharpen.
Why not show us the stone flattening on a mirror with abrasives instead? Nobody is going to buy a large diamond flattening plate for 250USD when their stone cost 80USD. If you are then you crazy, get the diamond forget the stone altogether.
Dude you talk about all other things except what you need to flatten the stone . I think you need to cut the unnecessary talk , don’t. Get caught talking or repeating. Words frases or sentences , I like the show !
@@Burrfection Hi Ryky, women are funny creatures regarding wedding rings, my father lost his ring and my mother always gave him hard time, when I got married and not wanting to repeat the same story I kept my ring in a jewellery box and my wife (now ex-wife) gave me hard time because she thought I was pretending to be single. What is the your Missus opinion on scratching the ring? Keeping the wife happy is important. Take care. Good videos BTW.
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45-minute video and when it comes down to the cutting test you don't have fresh paper ready to go to test. WTF??
Not really sure what happened to me today. I clicked on a video of you sharpening knives and only when it was over did I realize it was a 45 minute video, lol. Now here it is 3 hours later and I'm subscribed and binge watching. I love knives, own a ton of them (some actually very nice) so I'm off to Amazon to order some sharpening stones!
welcome, Lee..... hope you stay in touch
Icabod337 It maybe too late, don't order off Amazon, find a specialist suppler with which you can forge a relationship
@@davidduffy9806 send me some uzbekistan turkey stones to sharpen with. i expect them to be affordable and quality
Same here, a couple weeks ago😂
@@davidduffy9806 sorry for the zombie lol. A cheap amazon stone is fine for getting into it. Dont think you need a $100 stone. Those 400/1000 grit slurry stones rebranded everywhere are fair quality for the price ($10-15~) and a good enough range of grit to do what most beginners need/want from a single cheap stone. Starting off with an expensive stone is like buying a $50 paintbrush when your peak is stick figures.
In my experience and opinion, the most accurate and revealing way to find out how quickly your stone has gone out of flat is to, after sharpening, make crosshatch pencil marks across the complete surface of the stone and then use your flattening plate and see exactly where the wear pattern is. I have done this with sharpening my woodworking tools for years, and it provides the best feedback on stone wear without any guesswork.
right on. thanks for the input
yes!
@Nunya Business -- That's just as well because -- perhaps it's just clickbait, but the title is just wrong. If your stone is dished, it definitely needs flattening. Like Geoff, I do the crosshatch and flatten with a diamond stone.
and it will show you the tiniest of deviations. Which in fact is not ultra useful since those ultra tiny deviations don't actually matter much.
In my experience, a lot depends on which knife you're sharpening, for what. Doing heavier work on low grits saves a LOT of stone. If you know you damaged your edge, do not be afraid to "ruin the polish" by going to a 140. Take 20 strokes on low grit as opposed to 300 on a 1k. And don't damage your knives!
If it's a really nice knife and you don't want to damage the finish on a lower grit stone (in case you slip or something, it happens) you can always put some painter's tape or scotch tape around the rest of the knife.
@@TheLargeHardonCollider ---- Scotch tape may leave chemical traces that tarnish some metals. Same for masking tape. However, 3M makes a purplish easy-to-remove 2" wide tape that won't change the metal. There may be other tapes, too. So, yeah, if you have a "damascus pattern" knife, or a high polish stainless, use that low-glue tape.
I was referring to the polish on the bevel itself, that a lower grit stone will haze. The big "scratcher" of blades is a little plastic angle thingy. Very useful for checking your angle, but any stray slurry will get on it, then when you lay the knife flat on it, any motion will leave scratches.
@@davesmith5656 Yeah I will clean off the entire blade with alcohol if I do that to remove any residue immediately after. The purple tape is essentially the same as the blue painter's tape I was talking about, but I see what you're saying that it has even milder adhesive.
Great advice on the little plastic angle guides! I never thought about that, ty.
@@TheLargeHardonCollider --- Yes, sorry I missed that you said "painter's tape". I (erroneously) mind-jumped to masking tape. I stained a blade with plan Scotch tape, and nothing I've tried so far has removed the darkened areas (acetone, WD 40, soap - no big deal, it's sharp). Magic "Invisible" Scotch tape is great for paper and all, but not for knives, lol.
@@TheLargeHardonCollider If you slip you'll ruin the finish on a higher grit stone, too.
Thank you for doing this video, it's revealing. I'm new to stones, at least I haven't used them in years. I was using a Tormek in the past, and lost it, and I've decided to switch to stones because I've switched to Japanese knives and steel, and need more control. I can't comment from experience, but flattening importance would seem to me to depend on how you sharpen. I watched a tutorial with Dave( I think that's his name) from knife merchant, and he uses a style where he holds the knife parallel to the length of the stones, and I'm going to give that way a try first, after I get my Japanese water stones. I would have to guess this will only work on flattened stones. With the style your using, I can't see any benefit to constantly flattening the stones, and it seems like it would at least slightly, reduce the lifespan of the stone, if you're constantly flattening them. The main thing for me, is not to get get stuck in my ways, and to always be learning, and finding ways to get better at sharpening.
I just use a small rectangular smooth rock I found on a riverside trail, to make sharpening smoother on my whetstones
I'm adding this to my ASMR list. Interesting, informative, and very chillaxing!
Something else worth considering - I don't know if you have covered this Ryky, I might have missed it - but the odds are that our new sharpening stones are not perfectly flat coming from the manufacturer. I just checked my new Chosera 1000, that I used once, with the pencil crosshatch flattening technique I mentioned below. Using my DMT Dia-Flat Plate on the Chosera, I found it had a dramatic and pronounced high-centered hump running the length of the stone, which I now know is why I got a less than perfect sharpening experience the first time I used it. For me this feedback is invaluable because once the stone is truly flat, I can then completely concentrate on my sharpening technique and eliminate another variable in getting a perfect edge.
I am not a master knife maker like Murray Carter, who actually *can* get a great perfect edge from his irregular stones (he - CarterCutlery - has a video on UA-cam about this that is a good watch - it might be over there on the right). He has spent years and years perfecting his muscle memory and kinesthetic skills to feel his knife edges and get those results. I want fast, predictable and satisfying results so I can fully enjoy the knives I have invested in as amazing tools, and get back to making the food I love with semi-mad knife skills. :) And, I need my sharpening stones dead flat because I use them for my knives as well as my plane blades and chisels.
great point Geoff. i'm testing a few new stones and will cover that
This is why when I first got into sharpening, I went straight to a guided angle system. They allow even an amateur to achieve a fantastic razor's edge in no time. Even tho I've also moved on to larger un-guided DMT diamond stones that I use "freehand", I still normally use angle wedge accessories with them to ensure I'm getting an extremely consistent & accurate angle.
I've finally gotten practiced enough I can start to "feel" what angle I'm at with accuracy. And my old roommate left me some of his actually-wet whetstones, and now I finally want to try them. Very interesting techniques OP here shows, I did some of them before but he's shown many me new ones. I especially like how he "strops" on the same stone, or a brick covered with newspaper!
(But to anybody else, you don't have to be afraid of spending years to learn proper knife sharpening! Make it easy on yourself, get a guided-angle system to start with. If you like it you'll eventually end up with all sorts of sharpening stones & tools anyway.)
I think Ryky mentioned that new stones may come with some kind of a "surface finish". I broke down and bought an expensive high grit stone, and have found that even with using a nagura, it is changing after six or seven light uses, behaving better, with better feel.
Spyderco stones, the actual lap or bench stones, are infamous for this. I've never seen a Spyderco stone that was flat on both edges... Most aren't even flat on either. It's saying something when you can put a stone down on float glass and push each corner (on both sides) and the stone lifts/rocks around. And, of course, if you go on the Spyderco forums it's like walking into a Flat Earth Conference and announcing to the crowd that the Earth is a globe. They'll hear none of it... despite clear evidence from tons of people, not just me, showing that... yeah, Spyderco can't flatten their bench stones worth a hoot.
Depends on what you are sharpening a knife it dosent really matter if a tool blade like a plane or jointer blades you should fasten be for every time
The flattening or cleaning the stone depends on the stone itself. I was using my old King 1000 (not Deluxe version) for sharpening all my knifes every two months and I never cleaned up the stone with Nagura or so. The stone had a pretty nice "bath" shape which was pretty impossible to sharpen on, I decided to flatten the stone with chinese whetstone grit probably 200 and it took about 20mins to completely flatten my King. This is of course the worst case scenario but it would be impossible to flatten with Nagura, therefore a flattening stone is good for the extreme. Now I have replaced the King by the recommended Cerax 1010 and it's a completely different stone which I'm always cleaning up with a Nagura stone :) Lesson learned.
Technically you could've still sharpened on that. All you need is 1 flat spot in the stones to sharpen on. If you had a bathtub effect then the walls around would be high and flat. You can use then to make contact with any part of the knife you choose. What your sharpening could come into play as well
You are right but I didn't have exactly a bathtub shape, it was more like a U shape with the flat spot less than 1cm long (by the longest whetstone side). It was sharpening still very nice but it wasn't so comfortable and it was much harder to keep the proper angle.
@@sonecborec ---- I'm about three years into knife sharpening (my hobby) and I'm finding all kinds of "subtle differences", everywhere, in knives and stones and in strops. My latest is about varying pressures used for different steels. I'm guessing that pro chefs who need "very sharp" for smooth sushi slices have developed such discrimination that they have ONE knife, and maybe two stones.
I had to flatten a stone of mine I lent to someone to re-hone a flat surface and somehow it ended up getting used as a beater stone. Still an expensive stone and I am in the process of hand scraping and stoning my bedways on my lathe. If you are sharpening a knife I'd plane it once it's uncomfortable or you cannot stand looking at the bow anymore. Wood chisels whenever you sharpen your chisel and it still will not make clean crisp cuts. If you are using it for precision work you are inspecting on a surface plate with a surface gauge flatten it everytime before and after. Its only my opinion and you can do what you want but I think those are reasonable guidelines.
So I’m with you, I rarely flatten stones maybe once or twice in their entire lives outside of single bevel knives. The only exception for me, oddly, is my Shapton Pro 120. I use it as a correcting stone for chips, tips, horrible previous sharpening attempts, etc. I’ve found that when used in that regard, it develops odd tracks in the surface that do impact results and make for an annoying task. I still only flatten it 1/10 or so uses but for me that’s a lot. I actually have an old Naniwa Economical stone that is severely dished like 5mm low at the bottom and I can still get a clean edge using it.
Great videos as always. I've learned a lot from you and I just wanted to give my thanks.
good to hear from you Justin
I never have to flatten my stones because I use high quality diamond stones. Regular whetstones are a thing of the past for meat least
Can I ask, do ceramic and glass stones ever need flattening, the ones in question are the Shapton range? It's a subject I've never really been able to find out. Love the channel and best wishes from here in the UK.
I just recently got a King kw65 stone (1000/6000, a smaller version of KDS I think, BTW I mostly chose it thanks to you positive reviews :D ), this is my first water stone and I'm kind of lost on how to maintain it properly. Should I use a plate or dressing stone? Does dressing stone grit matter? Do I buy whatever cheap crap or should I choose carefully?
Ryky, you said in some of your videos that you avoid soaking KDS 6000 side or it doesn't cut. Do you just splash it or soak lightly? I kind of feel it doesn't cut much too, but then I'm new to this and don't even have much success forming a burr on 1000 (maybe because the knives haven't been "shaped" on a stone before). If you have any wisdom to share on using a King KDS, you're welcome.
Also, what's your opinion on using honing rods to maintain knives? I noticed you do have them.
I know its been 3 years but I figured I would reply anyways. You aren't supposed to soak the 6000 grit side on the King KW65 or the KDS. You use the 6000 grit side like a splash and go stone. You only need to soak the 1000 grit side. King has posted these instructions online if you want to look. They say that soaking any of their finishing stones above 3000 grit may result in cracking or breaking.
@@sakataslays oh! thank you so much. I overlooked this and was wodereing why the 6000 side was suffering that much
IDK the conclusion of this experiment yet. Keeping the stone flat is paramount for straight razors. Straight razor honing is a little easier than knife sharpening and honing, as you don't need to develop a "feel" for the edge being on the stone. The spine and edge of a razor are both on the stone at all times. I'm kind of anxious to see the outcome here😂
It looked to me that the non-flattened stone blade was ever so slightly sharper. And this would make sense since you are flattening a curved edge on a (slightly) dished stone. A curved edge on a perfectly flat stone will have one tiny point of contact. But a curved edge on a worn dished stone will have a larger area of contact to greater effect - and BTW there also looked to be more metal removed. In any case if you were sharpening a perfectly straight edge (eg. a straight razor or straight edged knife) you would need a perfectly flat stone - especially if you plan to use more than one stone in the process.
It is possible that hills on the unflattened stone have produced a more acute angle on the edge
I've never deburred before - wasn't even aware it was a thing. I thought that's what stropping on a compound strop was supposed to do. Is there a noticeable difference? I may have to start keeping champagne corks for use after sharpening.
Nah, it's fine to not do it if you strop with compound a lot. Different ways to skin a cat and all that.
if you are having success with what you are doing, don't worry about it. this is for people who don't care to strop on leather yet.
@@applepiesapricots3109 --- Very definitely more than one way to skin a cat, and many cats to skin. Knives vary, and steels vary, angles vary, and different knives seem to react differently to different stones and strops.
I never did anyway :) but thank you for validating my lazyness
Cool, I'm ok with flattening if I can use the house's concrete wall or garden stones laying around or roof ceramics and brick laying around coz' good sharpening whetstones are expensive X-D.
God bless.
yup. you can. i've shown a few times you can flatten on flat sidewalk. you can do the same. just use another stone to lap to remove left over rough areas
They're your stones Ryky...do to them whatever works best for you...what works for one person may not work for the next...On the rare occasion I use my softer wet stones, I put them on a flat surface, and if I can slide a business card under it without catching...they get flattened.
Can you do (or do you already have) a short video on you basic sharpening equipment, like the sink bridge and stone holder? Or, just a short reply?
Thank you.
ua-cam.com/video/_-qZ_3QE3Y0/v-deo.html
Thank you.
LOVE YOUR VIDEOS MAN! I work in a kitchen and i recently started getting into knife sharpening. I sharpen all our knives at work and my boss is thinking of dropping our usually knife sharpener and might just pay me instead.
Question: Do you have experience with using your skill to make money? Like your own type of side business for some extra cash?
that's awesome Kenn, i hope you can do it and earn some money while you are at it. regarding your question, i don't have the time to sharpen other people's knives, so, no.
Whats the benefit of not flattening more often? For me when i dont do it for a while, i have to spend a lot more time flattening. Because you are going to have to flatten it sooner or later. And for most you end up with a dished out middle. And it takes forever to bring the ends and sides down when not done regularly. And i agree that you need a flat stone to easier maintain a consistent angle while sharpening. Especially for a beginner. I dont think not flattening prolongs the life of the stone. And to flatten you are going to be spending as much time doing it. A lot of quick touch ups if done every time or every other time. Or a long boring tiring flattening session if it is not done after many sharpenings. Of course, to each his own...but for me...wash and dry your knife after each use and maintain your edge and stones regularly. Touching up a knife only takes a few minutes and very minimal dishing will occur. in that case you can go longer without flattening. i can get my edge hair popping sharp with just a few passes on the 800 then the 5k then the strop. Usually i just strop on the 5k a few times then on the leather. I never have to spend more than a few minutes. After penciling the stone and flattening it so many times, i know about how long to flatten without the use of a pencil. It really is a very quick easy process when you learn how to do it.
chuckyz2 not trying to create an argument but it appears Murray Carter doesn't flatten his. I could be wrong and tried to find the video he made but couldn't
there is NOTHING wrong with flattening your stone once in a while, or after every sharpening. the point i am making, is that you don't need a "flat" stone to get a knife sharp. but for plane tools and wood working tools, and sushi knives, that is a different story. i was talking about "normal" chef knives.
There really is no benefit to flattening. I think there are very very very few people who use a sharpening stone would ever think about flattening their stones. It's just no need for free handing sharpening.
@@BennyCFD I guess you are not into toilet paper slicing edges. And that's fine. I usw mine for chisels, plane blades, knives, kitchen and camping. I couldn't work with a concaved stone. For so many reasons. But none of them would matter to you so I'll leave it at that.
Well I dont have flat stones. As Ryky I go all over the stone to keep it as flat as possible. I tried to flatten my stone once, and I ended up wasting a lot of material, and I couldn’t see any improvement
Wow... only 45mins to sharpen a blade. That was fast. ;))
Where did you get the stone holders they look really handy
store.burrfection.com/collections/accessories
Nice video! When you are stropping with the newspaper, are you laying the knife flat or are you holding the same angle as sharpening?
either will work. make sure the stone is dry.
The hardest part for me is keeping track of even strokes on both sides 💀 glad to see even pros can deal with it too lmao
Hi,what was the brown stone you use before sharpening and why did you use it?
I have to flatten mine because I sharpen a scandi grind
Hey burrfection, I have a question, I’m thinking about buying the atoma for flattening my stones, what happened when it loses it cutting on the atoma, where can I buy replacement plates at?
Affordable is a must.
Thank you.
If you really want to spend little, just get some ceramic tile and rub your sharpening stones on the back of it. It should be pretty flat.
I know this is an old video, but I watched this street food chef lady that had a stand open for like 40 years. She had a gigantic whetstone and sharpened her knives every morning. The stone looked like a mini Grand Canyon. She never once flattened that thing and got her knives screaming sharp every morning. It's really just abrasion. If you have the movement down for the curves in the stone it doesn't matter.
Thanks. I suspect that pros who need "sharp" have experimented around the block a few times to end up with one knife and maybe two stones - and they know how.
I thought this was going to be using a stone for maybe 100 times before flattening. It also depends how you sharpen. My father used to sharpen a knife point first along the length of the stone and after years of using the same stones there would be a groove worn on the stone about half way through it while around this groove some places looked almost untouched.
I know the real answer to this issue. There was an old man where I lived who went door to door sharpening for people. He would sharpen knifes with two edges on stones that were in my eyes worn beyond any flat shape. Hand him a tool like a chisel a plane iron pair of scissors and out comes the flat stones he obviously kept pretty flat.
There really is no reason to have a stone be very flat for knifes with a curved blade and two edges besides technique.
Good video, good info, what's the stone you used for flattening? 400 grid what brand?
atoma amzn.to/2CWompO
Burrfection thank you for your reply!! I am a sushi Chef, and I am curious about the victorinox forscher 14 inches blade cimetar, I use to only use japanese knives, but I've notice at all processing Tuna factories they use those cimetar knives and seem to work pretty well if possible could you do a video of that knife..... thanks!!
@Burrfection What grit Nagura stone do you recommend. I just got my first Japanese knife and plan on buying a Cerax 1k.
For sharpening stones i like Naniwa’s dressing stone the best burrfectionstore.com/products/naniwa-dressing-stone-600
It cleans well and does not wear down too fast
If you flatten before or after every use, if you sharpen professionally or on a very regular basis, won't your stones run out much much faster? I basically never flatten unless i'm doing chisel edges or flats. Does anybody know the actual rate of degradation from flattening every day? How much faster will the stone wear down compared to no flattening.
He addresses it in another video that it's not necessary to use the flattening stone that often
@@Artix902 Oh okay, I sharpen professionally and have never used a flattening stone.
thank you teacher 🙏🏼
How do you keep the knife at the correct angle while sharpening
I made myself a vanadis 10 pouder steel knive (around 64 HRC) and it ate my 6000 polishing stone like nothing. I felt like the knive is just cutting out the stone without getting sharp. I can really hear the stone getting carved out by the knife.
you've got better ears than i do
Try a different stone. You have to match stones to knives, to some extent, steel are different, and stones are made of different materials and treated differently in the making. If your 6k is like my 6k, it's a softer stone. You could try a New Chosera 5k (hard) or a Suehiro 8k (hard) or any other hard stone - I think ceramic is what you want, but I'm not sure at all.
@@davesmith5656 Chosera and Suehiro can't cut vanadis 10 because it contains too much vananium carbides. There are some materials that can cut vanadium carbide, but aluminum oxide or silicon carbide that consist Chosera are not. You should use diamonds stones or CBN stones.
@@rumjungdokja ---- Corundum (aluminum oxide) has a 9.0 hardness on the Mohs scale, while Vanadiumn has a 7.5 and chromium has 8.5 hardness on the same scale. I have no problem sharpening HRC 66 steel on any of the whetstones I have. Some stones are "softer", which means that the particles break free from the binder more easily.
@@davesmith5656 Vanadium is 7.5 but vanadium carbide is different material. most of vanadium in blade is vanadium carbide which hardness is 9.5, and vanadis10 have about 10 percent of vanadium carbide.
Hi
I watch you vedio & i have a question , can i flaten all kind of wetstone by sandpaper . I have the king kds 1000/6000 and both sides have unflat surfes, can i also flat ceramic stones with sand paper
Thank you
would it not matter what type of steel is being sharpened? Harder more expensive steel more strokes to achieve sharpness versus softer steel less strokes?
Softer steel may even require more time because as softer steel will give and bend, instead of flaking off the cutting edge. Historically, i have always had a tough time sharpening cheaper soft knives
Are you sharpening scandi vex grinds or straight razors. I’d not then yea I don’t level either. When I sharpen my straight razor and bushcraft knife I level.
What is the name of the stand you are using over the water container? I believe it's some form of a sink bridge.
so true
The knife sharpened with non flattened stone is clearly sharpener than the other (you can notice it by the fact that he had way more difficult starting cutting the paper with the "flattened" knife). So don't flat your stones.
hahah.... love it!
Burrfection My theory about a possible explanation is that the stone is simply assuming the shape of the knife, which is not flat, but curved, since you don't sharpen it with 0 degree angle, so the non flattened stone is probably doing a better job at keeping contact with the shape of the blade than the flattened.
Well dayum there went an unnecessary $80 yesterday for ordering a A-120 Extra Large Naniwa Flattening Stone.
But isn't the little brown nagura stone you use every time also a flatening stone? They're called finishing stones but aren't they the same thing? Thanks Ryky.
I see Botosai the man slayer behind you ;)
Very cool!
It was obvious that there’s a big difference in the sharpness.
If I had to get only 2 plates do you think an atoma 1200 grit diamond plate and a chosera 3000 would be the way to go?
hahah. GOOD CHOICE! if you are OK with the base, i would go with the current Chosera 3000 amzn.to/2iHA2Uw, as opposed to the "professional" it's the same stone, but thinner, and without a base, and costs MORE!
Bro, please correct the link in the description for "Favorite Lapping Plates". You've missed "h" in http for #2
What bridge and base are you using on this video?
How do you spell nagra stone
You're simply creating more work for future you by putting off flattening your stones until you can see a concave formation. Take your flattening stone and just run it once or twice after you've finished doing a knife... Takes literally 5-10 seconds and saves you minutes or hours of work later. I honestly have no idea how the hell you're getting a consistent angle if you don't flatten your stones until it looks like someone has scooped out part of the stone... *_because you actually have._*
You know it really doesn't matter if you flatten or not. There are people all over the world, and your fathers and grand fathers who never flatten their stones who sharpen their knives to a very sharp edge. I think this whole flattening thing is nothing more than a UA-cam phenomenon that people like to talk about. Great if you do and great if you don't.
I am wondering what anime is on your shelf in the background. I am a huge anime lover and always looking for new anime. I have watched a ton of your videos. I love them all. You are very informative about how to and when to do things. You give details and that's always something so many other people leave out.your doing a great job and thank you. Keep the great videos up and as always can't wait for the next one. 😁 have a great day.
So...
Can I just use sandpaper (wet and dry)?
Yes
Show your favorites knives 🙏
coming soon
What stones you recommend me to use for a dalstrong shogun chef knife? Thanks, love your videos bro!!
here are my top picks
look at the chosera 800, 3000, for non-soaking
for soaking, the cerax 1000 and rika 5000
all 4 stones can handle knives over 62 HRC
Top Soaking Whetstone
#320 goo.gl/AGa9km
#1000 amzn.to/2cwLxWB
#1000 goo.gl/wZ94xk
#1000 amzn.to/2d0Th9x
#5000 goo.gl/LJfGHv
#5000 amzn.to/2i7wJFk
#1000/6000 amzn.to/2dmxDMZ
Top Splash-n-go Whetstones
#120 amzn.to/2gAEZIN
#320 amzn.to/2gABXEA
#800 amzn.to/2d4esno
#3000 amzn.to/2dmCity
#6000 amzn.to/2hPGsk0
#8000 amzn.to/2vUMB4C
#16,000 amzn.to/2lA9bHu
#30,000 amzn.to/2lA0FIi
Burrfection thanks bro blessings!!!
What bridge are you using?
vizigr0u I wanted to ask the same because it looks different than the one in the description.
that was a Suehiro bridge, which no one in the US carries anymore. I now use the naniwa amzn.to/2gqBjic, on sale for $99, usually $160-$270
Burrfection thank you
Do u like survival knives or only kitchen knives ( I think that I commented this awhile I go I don't remember if I did sorry)
i'm going to do a series on survival knives at some point. have any recommendations?
Burrfection, morakniv
I can send you mine, but I messed up the scandi grind. I would like it back, but don't care what shape it's in, unless it's destroyed... Lol
Burrfection look at popular buchcraft knives. Morakniv is a great start with the scandi grind. Most hunting and Bushcraft knives go hand in hand, so you can cover both sides.
Cold steel Master Hunter is a great knife as well. Skinning knives are different due to the belly shape. The Boker Rhino has the belly I am talking about.
How long does a stone last?
hahah. 10 years or more
Until you drop it :)
My housemate stole my whetstone 😵👎
the japanese sharpening masters dont flatten their stones. their stones are everything else but flat^^
nice video
really? never knew that!
i also wondered about it. But
theres a video on YT where they show the stones of an old katana polishing master.
his stones are all polygonal...many sharpeningfacets on it, not just two like on our stones.
You should do more research before making a silly comment. By not flattening your stones, you will produce a convex edge on the blade. Katanas are sharpened with a convex edge. That's why they do not flatten their stones. If you want a flat ground V edge, it's not crucial to keep the stones perfectly flat, but if you very heavily dish your stone out, you will sacrifice a degree of sharpness. Like Ryky says in the video, the only time you really need a perfectly flat stone, is with a single bevel Japanese knife.
a perfectly flat stone is only needed for razors, sushiknifes and carpentertools. the give of your hand creates a more konvex edge than a not perfectly flattened stone....do some maths on it.
If you are not able to create a perfect kitchenknife edge on a unflattened whetstone, you should maybe get some practice first.
Aren’t you meant to flatten your whetstones ? To get consistent results
Do I see Vagabond manga! Nice
1 degree = .0174 per inch
Ryky is 100%
unless you're doing single edge knives or plane tools, you do not need to keep stones flat. Period. Unless it develops uneven surfaces. Dishing isn't even an issue for double edge
45 minutes for a stone sharpening video? The Japanese say to flatten your stones, so I"m sticking with that but I don't do it every single time I sharpen.
But why did you proceed to flatten the unflattened side of the stone...
Or does the nagura stone not flatten the stone?
Why not show us the stone flattening on a mirror with abrasives instead? Nobody is going to buy a large diamond flattening plate for 250USD when their stone cost 80USD. If you are then you crazy, get the diamond forget the stone altogether.
Dude you talk about all other things except what you need to flatten the stone . I think you need to cut the unnecessary talk , don’t. Get caught talking or repeating. Words frases or sentences , I like the show !
will do better
@@Burrfection Thank you for taking the time to make the awesome videos .
whats the manga collection behind you? :)
kenshin and..... something else... oh Bleach
Murray Carter's take on this:
ua-cam.com/video/_InT88SR19w/v-deo.htmlm10s
finally! someone agrees with me!!!
"stop flattening your whetstone" ??
I don't think you want to rub your wedding band on the stone >_> Thought I'm sure it has happened numerous times already.
i don't mind at all. leaves character on the ring
@@Burrfection Hi Ryky, women are funny creatures regarding wedding rings, my father lost his ring and my mother always gave him hard time, when I got married and not wanting to repeat the same story I kept my ring in a jewellery box and my wife (now ex-wife) gave me hard time because she thought I was pretending to be single.
What is the your Missus opinion on scratching the ring? Keeping the wife happy is important. Take care. Good videos BTW.
@@redangrybird7564 just dont care and be a man
T
Alternative title: How to ruin your credibility with just one clickbait title.
somebody mad
@Burrfection No. Just not watching your BS.
a flat stone is only important if your cutting edge has to be exactly straight.