My dad bought one of those Norton stones the year I was born in 79 . It was the stone I learned how to sharpen a knife on . He passed away in 07 and I got it . I've been using it for 16 years now and it still looks almost new . I plan on passing it down to my son when I pass away . The way it has held up I have no doubt it will be in the family for many many years to come.
At last after watching dozens of sharpening vids, with wetstone snobs paying hundreds of dollars here we have a common sense guy doing a great job with little outlay and a minimum of fuss, I have 3 old oilstones of my dads and I too can get a razor edge on my knives good job mate
The thing is you and the "whetstone snops are trying to achieve two different things. Good luck cutting a high speed tool steel or CPM steel on an old stone
@@aaron6841 Ive sharpened linoleum knives and knives made of files with these, as well as a machette made from a power hacksaw blade(hss), and metal shear knives. Your point is valid and accurate, im just saying that an india stone can get those jobs done.
I’m as susceptible to marketing messages as anyone so I’ve bought more than my fair share of gadgets gizmos and must-haves over the years but I eventually learned when I started to think back to how the craftsmen of 100 or 200 years ago worked. They had simple and mostly hand-me-down tools and very basic workshops and yet they managed to produce furniture structures and artefacts that lasted generations and which we still admire today. No laser levelling, no micron measuring, nothing that would measure 1000ths of an inch or millimetres and of course not a power tool in sight so I absolutely applaud anyone who is advocating using simple stuff and cutting through the nonsense. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I was a stone collector, and have over 40 stones (some are duplicated), and I have to agree with you. If I could only have one stone, this would be it. Your fine side sounds a lot rougher than mine, although it could just be the microphone making it sound that way. The rough side is not real good though, in my opinion, but I think if you bought some rough Silicom Carbide powder and sprinkled on it, it would work a lot better. If Norton would put a fine, or rough Silicom Carbide (SC) on one side, and the fine Aluminium Oxide (AO) on the other, they would have a real winner, although the (AO) side probably wouldn't even be dished that much by the time the other side was worn out. I worked as a slaughterman for 33 years. We used Norton's Fine (SC) or their Combo stone if the Fine wasn't available, although a friend and I bought the Combo (AO) a couple of years after I first started there. I worked there for 33 years, and in that time we went through probably a hundred or more of the Silicon Carbide stones (20 people using them), although with no bench, we had to hang on to the stone in one hand, and sharpen with the other, so a lot got dropped. When I left, I took one of the stones we bought all those years ago, home with me, the other got dropped somewhere along the line. The stone I bought home had a deep dish in it that took ages to flatten. Admittedly, not many people used the Aluminium Oxide stones, because they were slower to reset the bevel, but they were great for putting a finer edge on your knife and when we did cattle, that was the stone to use. With the Silicon Carbide, it would often take 5 minutes of skinning before you wore down the serrations from the (SC) stones, but were the only way to go if you had sheep with lots of dried mud or heaps of burs and grass seeds in them. On a few occasions we tried super fine stones to finish the edge, but your knife usually died before the end of the run, and you didn't have enough time to resharpen it on the stone during the run. I have a couple of AO stones that, I think were made by PIKE (but could be wrong) that are a lot finer than the one on this video, they were only a single grit stone. You can finish a razor quite easy with this stone as it is very close to a black or translucent Arkansas. I get rid of all the oil out of these stones and use some diluted dish-washing liquid for lubricant. This comes from the abattoirs as well, if you had a bit of fat on your knife the liquid would soon disperse it, but if there was oil, even a small amount of fat would soon load it up. When I first started there, they use to have a concoction of diesel and other things in a bottle, but that was before greed killed that. The boss was perpetually wanting more and more work done. When I first started there, the tally was 66 sheep a day per man, or 11 cattle, by the time I left it was 110 sheep or 18 cattle. After I left 8 years ago, the boss conned them into agreeing to working an 8 hour day, and getting rid of tally's. They make less money now than when I left, and through "modernization" only get to do a couple of cuts. The goal is to get robotics to take over, so no one will have a job, no job is safe. Sorry for the rant. Thanks.
That "winner" stone you want is the IC-6 or IC-11 -- medium Crystolon (SiC) + fine India (AlOx) For some unknown reason Norton doesn't make it in the 8" size.
@@rockets4kids I didn't know they made that stone, probably because I only look at the 8" stones. I knew they made a India and Arkansas stone combination. It's a shame they dont make the ones you are talking about in 8", that would be a killer stone. Thanks.
@@cluntbeastwood9794 Thanks. I totally agree with your comment. It is unbelievable the amount of greedy people that there are now. You would think the amount of money some make, would be enough, but greed has no boundaries.
I love a simple coarse grit stone... But the problem you had with slow cutting wasn't because of water... It is because you should condition it from time to time, Joe Calton has a great video on it... The abrasive starts to wear, so you need to remove the top layer from time to time, rough things up
the Razor edge two stone kit with knife guide always worked fine for me and gave whisker cutting edge.Norton sharpening was always my favorite but medium and coarse will go fast but fine lasts forever;I recommend the 8-10 inch multi stone holder.
Sometimes people get caught up with having to buy with their feelings nothing but the best and spending hundreds of dollars. You have to go back and look at what The Butchers and Barbers used to use decades ago before all this new high fangled fancy expensive stuff came out thank you for this video
230 stone,400 stone,1000 stone,4000 stone then 8000 grit green compound on felt,red compound dust on felt then finally 50 strop on bare leather.if you just need a touchup after 8000 grit then strop
Thank you. Saved me a couple of 100 pounds as I have been following and getting confused watching all these different videos. Would love to see a video of you sharpening your hand plane iron and chisels.
They sure don't make things like they used to. They make them better. :) The problem you mentioned at 3:30 is the CORE problem with India stones. They invariable load up and stop working. Sure they don't dish, but they also don't cut once they are glazed over. Indias are great in expert hands, but a good Japanese stone is less messy and more beginner and user friendly. If you only had enough money for one stone, it should be Shapton Kuromaku 320 . Nortons have been disappearing where I live, when you find them, they are very expensive. Like $45 CAD for a 8 inch stone. For $25 more, you can get the stone I mentioned. Splash and go, not soak, no mess. Long lasting. Fast cutting. No loading issues.
Watched this John Moore video about the Norton India Oilstone several times. Very impressive and even though I live in Canada I found in U.S. and ordered and received today. So will try and see how it works.
THANK YOU. I've only ever heard of whetstones where you submerge in water. I just heard about oil stones. And every video detailing oil stones never mention what oil they use. To be honest I was a bit worried if people use a bit more harsher oils. And baby oil makes sense.
Hello John, I have watched this video about 10 times. I always come back here if I catch myself of thinking that I need a 5000 grid stone. Your video always gets me back to the ground. Always a pleasure to see you sharpening. It seems to me that you use relatively high pressure on the strop. I have the Norton stone, but struggle a bit with stropping to razor sharp. Is the pressure you use on the strop the same as on the stones? Best Regards Matthias
My kind of guy ... cleaning his pocket knife off with a wire brush!! After looking, reading and learning a bunch more about sharpening the last 5 years I don't EVER remember my Grandfathers, Uncles or my Dad complaining about flattening one of their oil stones - especially the manmade ones! Some dished or got worn out but they found or bought another, makes me wonder if they even thought about wear or resurfacing their stones ever? Thanks for posting this video.
If I had to guess, most of the old timers probably never even even knew that stone flattening was a thing. It's easy to forget that before the mid 90's, the internet wasn't commonplace and you either learned these things by trade, word of mouth, magazines, or a library.
@@JohnMooreVlogs Some of the harder oilstones never needed to be flattened. The way a hard and fine stone cuts, a rounded or a convexed surface is actually ideal. It cuts more efficiently, leaves a smaller bur, and it doesn't slow down or need resurfacing. And the blade doesn't push the oil layer off the stone, creating a mess. Some stones are made somewhat rounded to begin with, sometimes called scythestones, but in fact they are used to sharpen all kinds of tools including knives and straight blades. I find it is very trivial to sharpen a knife on a rounded stone. It's just somewhat of a cross between a ceramic rod and a flat stone. You just work the area over the corners and edges of the stone when you're doing something dumb, like sharpening drill bits or awls or the point of a knife. Any rough work like this, you want to keep away from the center, to prevent dishing. Occasional reshaping might be helpful, but it is much less work and material removal compared to flattening a dished out stone. Flattening stones is very much a good thing with softer, muddy stones. They don't work when convexed. The slurry gets pushed away from the area of contact, and the stone wastes away relatively quickly until the stone conforms to the shape of the blade... which usually means it gets fairly flat to somewhat dished before it starts working "correctly." Hard wearing stones are a different animal. The Norton India is somewhat of a tweener. It is a hard stone, IMO, but it is bordering on soft. There's no wrong way to use a Norton India. It works great, no matter how you use it.
Well done, simple goes to show you don't need much to get the job done, no fancy igimaichu gungadinga stone from a remote Island off from mainland Japan no sir.... Greetings from Maine !
iI've been watching a few prior to finally finding yours. Great info John. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. My knife is quite sharp now as it should be, being a brand new "butter knife" until now!
I like the idea of relying more on technique, because fancy stones won't save you if your technique isn't there. I was working on a secondhand butcher knife with this stone and put a really nice toothy edge on it, so I said good enough. But other folks have made the point about harder steels, and if you want to refine and polish that edge this stone is more like a good start. Tell you what's a similar option, though-those cheap Arkansas stones from Smith's that you get at the hardware store on a gray plastic base. Most people call it a medium and if you're just doing soft-steel pocket knives it might be all you'll need.
Norton Combination to establish a bevel and a Crock sticks turn block to finish is my favorite 1-2 punch for most my knives. Course DMT bench stone + crock sticks on Newer steels.
Im one of those people with hundreds of dollars in whetstones. Ive got DMT plates, Spyderco ceramics arkansas stones and a number of waterstones as well. I dont need all of them and I dont use them all that much as part of a different hobby either. I just enjoy putting a razor sharp edge on a knife and trying out different brands and types of stones.
It's a lot of fun to see how sharp you can get an edge. A good stone is a dream to work with. What's just as important as the grit is the "feel" of the stone. A good stone gives you feedback. I have a couple Arkansas stones, but they don't get a lot of use because I get a serviceable edge off of my India stone for my EDC knife and bench planes. However if I'm doing something like planing knotty or curly wood, I'll sharpen up to about 2000 on an Arkansas stone then finish on the strop to get a super smooth finish on the wood. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
I used one of those stones for years, it will sharpen knives just fine. Any sharpening stone will sharpen knives. These days I have all sorts of stones, which one I use depends on what I am sharpening. If you want to clean your oil stones, soak them in kerosene for a few days.
Solid point. Same of Arkansas stone. Comes down to honing ones skills. Money considered India stone is solid. Another consider would be King stone. Relatively cheap also just higher polish nothing crazy though
I agree with the opinion that this is a great stone! Especially if you're the type of person that uses their knife so much that they only have time to maintain a basic edge. As far as the last stone you'll ever need... only if you don't really care to have an exceptionally fine edge. This stone will get your edge to a respectable basic "toothy" edge. If you need to repair a damaged edge or just put a decent "factory" style edge on a blade then this will be great. I started out with this stone. The Mexican-made one. I still use it to this day! If you just want a sharp-enough working edge; use this stone. If you want a mirror-polished edge that feels deathly sharp and impresses your friends.. you'll need to move up to a finer grit.
It’s a great stone to get basic sharp toothy edge like you said. Depending on what I’m sharpening I like to go to 600. 800/1000 and sometime highly polished on Arkansas, coticles or JNats. They work fast too :)
Hello John I really enjoy your video to the point all I want to do is sharpen my own knife it just happens I own a Norton not knowing what I had my mother gave it to me she has work slaughter houses for over 20+ years after video I went to my garage and pulled my stone out love it but I got a real quick question for you what kind of leather is you strop?
Got a Lasky system and I replaced a stone much as yours and don't believe you can keep a blade in better shape your freehand system as I improved my bevels and next plan to better the Lasky with a homemade system I've started working on.
2 stones is not to much to ask. Use the same oil. A soft Arkansaw is 100% American and is a good follow up stone. (finer grit) and will coast about the same as your norton. You would also be shocked at what a little green chrome oxide compound will do for that strop. So for a one time, lifetime lasting $25-30 dollars and 5 extra minutes you could have a knife 10 times as sharp. If you want it scary sharp, which you have made clear you don’t want or need, you have to spend some money.
I collect high end Japanese knives and yes have hundreds worth of stones BUT there is a reason! The India stone will work perfectly on less hard steels but when the HRC gets near and into the 60’s it kinda loses its ability. A 64-66 HRC knife like a HAP40 or a hard blue super the abrasives in India stones just won’t cut. For your everyday knife though I try to tell people you don’t need a 5 stone progression to get a sharp knife and the India stone and strop combo proves it!
Sir no offense but if you're going to give advice on the art of knife sharpening perhaps you yourself should learn about sharpening knives instead of demonstrating on a stone which is sliding around on a piece of newspaper all while using one hand
Man I laugh at some of these people on UA-cam talking about all these different grit stones you need to sharpen a knife, 1000 whetstone and a strop will put a razor edge on a blade ever time, plain and simple unless it’s wrecked, then start with about a 250-300 , been doing it for years on my pocket knife and kitchen knifes, I like your video, it’s just common sense
I agree, going through every progression of stone you have, and going to stupid levels (5k+) is just pointless. For any usable work knife, you only need 1k max, I usually do 220-400 grit, strop with black compound, then with green compound, a couple times each, and it puts all the edge I need on the knife. Strop more when it dulls a bit, if need be, I hone on the stone. Rarely need to do any work beyond that. Now, I will go to 6k (my highest grit) when I am sharpening for the first time, or just feel like it for aesthetic reasons, but I've only done that 2 times in the past year. And, you also have, with softer steels (420HC, 440, AUS-8, and 8Cr13Mov) you can't hold an edge past 5k either. The steel is just so soft, the edge will begin to roll, or just not hold and dull instantly after your first few cuts. A lower grit sharpening is stronger, especially for soft steel. Only time I see higher grits (6-10k) being useful is if you're using Sushi Knifes, or other knives meant for delicate cuts.
I’m a gardener in my own yard n love it but headgear shears n bypass everything needs sharpened! I don’t know how. I’ve been wanting lots of videos to find out what best. I’m not handy with tools at all. I’ve had them sharpened for me before but they didn’t do a good job at all. So I buy new tools. I’ve got so many. The electric tool sharpener I think might work better for me. But not sure 🤔 can u recommend one for a lady? Thank you 😊
I really like your philosophy and dont meet many like you. Ive been favoring a stropped mediumish edge these days. I just got this stone today and dont really like how hard it is, i might be more of a water stone guy. But i love my strops.
It'll wear slightly faster, and you won't move metal out of the way, so it will clog slightly faster. Not to much of an issue, nothing that can't be fixed. Water does work on these stones, like a lot of other oil stones, but I would make sure before I apply water to any stone (either lack of cutting ability, or worst case, damage.) I highly recommend getting a strop, makes shit razor sharp with minimal effort.
I just want to know how to sharpen a planer blade. Period. The guy at Lowe's said all I needed was the wet stone---the only brand they had--and water. My son used the pamphlet and followed directions. Worse than before he started! Isn't there any way to sharpen Grandpa's planer so it does a passable job, with a wet stone from Lowe's? I think that he has given up; but I will keep at it. Thanks!
Unfortunately, that either takes a chisel/plane sharpening jig (to hold it at the proper angle while stroking), or without the jig, it takes practice...Alot of practice. Like, probably hundreds of hours of trial and error starting from fresh, to learn to sharpen different types of blades properly. I know it has taken me a long time to be able to sharpen different blade profiles...And each blade has a kind of learning curve. Try searching Chisel sharpening Jig or Planer etc, and you'll see that a simple sharpening jig can be made in less than an hour, and, that can help circumvent the learning curve.
It's not that hard to get an edge sharp enough to work with. Watch this video, ua-cam.com/video/U5Z5g-cyTVM/v-deo.html. Also check out Paul Sellers videos. I wouldn't advise a sharpening jig. I had no experience sharpening and by following Paul Sellers advice I was able to get a chisel and plane blade sharp enough to produce thin shavings. And the more I do it the better I will get. I'm not skilled by any means. Ignore all the noise about scary sharp and hair shavings. Just start with the goal of producing an edge good enough to work with. It will fall into place.
You are wrong about that burr that moves from one side to the other. If you sharpen a blade properly. That burr will always show up. You have to strop the blade to remove the burr.
Herb Ray... I run a very small sharpening business I have various tools for diferent purposes Yeah I have a Norton but it is NOT my favorite. Razor Edge has 2 stones a course and a very fine Yup thats why they call it Razor Edge. I also have and use waterstones , Diamond plates, a KME, a 1by 30, And an Edge Pro Professional.that I love for polishing and repeatability. Oh yes can't forget the Tormec T7. Each of these has a use aaa purpose and tradeoff's. Crap knives (the steel can flake off before your done) and tip repairs get the 1 X30 it's quick and easy. not too many people request waterstones to be used it's labor intensive and costs more . a carpenter has more than one hammer, a mechanic has many wrenches, this isn't a ONE TOOL world . there is a phrase : the proper tool for the proper job...
This could be only stone you ever need, as long as you don't use any modern "supersteels" , even as common as S30V. The aluminum oxide/silicon carbide in the India stones will kind of get a steel like that sharp, but they are not hard enough to cut the Vanadium carbides in modern steels at all, so you are not being efficient with either money or steel choice. Even cheap Harbor Freight diamond plates will sharpen almost anything, and last a long time if you know what you are doing. India's do put a fine edge on high carbon steel though, and if that is all you have, they work good for that at least.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Aluminum oxide knoop hardness- 2100. Silicon Carbide knoop hardness 2480. Vanadium Carbide knoop hardness 2600. While you got the knife sharp, you weren't sharpening any of the vanadium carbides (that make the steel a supersteel) . This is why it is inefficient to use anything less than diamonds (7000 knoop) on steels like these. Wasting time and not sharpening the elements of steel that make them supersteels.
Try going backwards, staying on one until a burr develops. Blade @ 45° perpendicular to the stone, work edge with fingers, split the blade length in parts and just go slowly and razor focus on keeping the blade still and keeping your arm,wrist,and hand rigid like wood. Do this 'just' until a burr develops, on the section worked on, move on full blade lengh. Now flip and repeat. Sand down the burr by doing the exact same thing...but super light, until the slightest touch reveals no burr, and now finer sanding, lighter touch, removing the high ridges of the surface. Watch a Murray Carter video.
Hahahaha...you can get rubber shelving material from the Dollar store for grip. Easy to size and super cheap!! Your stropping block needs a handle,you'll never go back.
About 3/4 pounds, less as go in higher grit. kitchen knives around 18/20dps outdoor or hunting knives around 20/25dps. Use a sharpie marker and put marks on the edge so you know when you are to steep or shallow 👌🏽 Also deburr with wood in between stropping.
It will become hard and grimy with aging, just like if you left some in an open jar. Don't do it to your stone. Lansky sell honing oil, it's dirt cheap, but it ain't dirt ;)
Just go buy a bottle of mineral oil laxative it’s less than two dollars for a large sized bottle. And it’s cheaper than buying regular mineral oil yet it’s the exact same thing.
@@richterknives He said he uses it for work stuff (cutting random shit), so I doubt it would give it any more scratches than it already has -- Work knives don't need to look pretty, and if you actually use your knive, and not put it in a safe, you won't care what it looks like, rather how well it cuts. Knife steel is harder than the steel in wire brushes, so it won't do that much damage.
My dad bought one of those Norton stones the year I was born in 79 . It was the stone I learned how to sharpen a knife on . He passed away in 07 and I got it . I've been using it for 16 years now and it still looks almost new . I plan on passing it down to my son when I pass away . The way it has held up I have no doubt it will be in the family for many many years to come.
If it ever dishes or glazes over they can be flattened and refreshed using loose silicon carbide powder, so it will last nearly forever
At last after watching dozens of sharpening vids, with wetstone snobs paying hundreds of dollars here we have a common sense guy doing a great job with little outlay and a minimum of fuss, I have 3 old oilstones of my dads and I too can get a razor edge on my knives good job mate
You've clearly not seen Murray Carter whet a knife on a cinder block then.
The thing is you and the "whetstone snops are trying to achieve two different things. Good luck cutting a high speed tool steel or CPM steel on an old stone
High speed steel is this s5 ,L6
@@aaron6841
Ive sharpened linoleum knives and knives made of files with these, as well as a machette made from a power hacksaw blade(hss), and metal shear knives.
Your point is valid and accurate, im just saying that an india stone can get those jobs done.
I’m as susceptible to marketing messages as anyone so I’ve bought more than my fair share of gadgets gizmos and must-haves over the years but I eventually learned when I started to think back to how the craftsmen of 100 or 200 years ago worked. They had simple and mostly hand-me-down tools and very basic workshops and yet they managed to produce furniture structures and artefacts that lasted generations and which we still admire today. No laser levelling, no micron measuring, nothing that would measure 1000ths of an inch or millimetres and of course not a power tool in sight so I absolutely applaud anyone who is advocating using simple stuff and cutting through the nonsense. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I was a stone collector, and have over 40 stones (some are duplicated), and I have to agree with you. If I could only have one stone, this would be it.
Your fine side sounds a lot rougher than mine, although it could just be the microphone making it sound that way.
The rough side is not real good though, in my opinion, but I think if you bought some rough Silicom Carbide powder and sprinkled on it, it would work a lot better.
If Norton would put a fine, or rough Silicom Carbide (SC) on one side, and the fine Aluminium Oxide (AO) on the other, they would have a real winner, although the (AO) side probably wouldn't even be dished that much by the time the other side was worn out.
I worked as a slaughterman for 33 years.
We used Norton's Fine (SC) or their Combo stone if the Fine wasn't available, although a friend and I bought the Combo (AO) a couple of years after I first started there.
I worked there for 33 years, and in that time we went through probably a hundred or more of the Silicon Carbide stones (20 people using them), although with no bench, we had to hang on to the stone in one hand, and sharpen with the other, so a lot got dropped.
When I left, I took one of the stones we bought all those years ago, home with me, the other got dropped somewhere along the line. The stone I bought home had a deep dish in it that took ages to flatten.
Admittedly, not many people used the Aluminium Oxide stones, because they were slower to reset the bevel, but they were great for putting a finer edge on your knife and when we did cattle, that was the stone to use.
With the Silicon Carbide, it would often take 5 minutes of skinning before you wore down the serrations from the (SC) stones, but were the only way to go if you had sheep with lots of dried mud or heaps of burs and grass seeds in them.
On a few occasions we tried super fine stones to finish the edge, but your knife usually died before the end of the run, and you didn't have enough time to resharpen it on the stone during the run.
I have a couple of AO stones that, I think were made by PIKE (but could be wrong) that are a lot finer than the one on this video, they were only a single grit stone. You can finish a razor quite easy with this stone as it is very close to a black or translucent Arkansas.
I get rid of all the oil out of these stones and use some diluted dish-washing liquid for lubricant. This comes from the abattoirs as well, if you had a bit of fat on your knife the liquid would soon disperse it, but if there was oil, even a small amount of fat would soon load it up.
When I first started there, they use to have a concoction of diesel and other things in a bottle, but that was before greed killed that. The boss was perpetually wanting more and more work done.
When I first started there, the tally was 66 sheep a day per man, or 11 cattle, by the time I left it was 110 sheep or 18 cattle.
After I left 8 years ago, the boss conned them into agreeing to working an 8 hour day, and getting rid of tally's. They make less money now than when I left, and through "modernization" only get to do a couple of cuts.
The goal is to get robotics to take over, so no one will have a job, no job is safe.
Sorry for the rant.
Thanks.
That "winner" stone you want is the IC-6 or IC-11 -- medium Crystolon (SiC) + fine India (AlOx) For some unknown reason Norton doesn't make it in the 8" size.
@@rockets4kids I didn't know they made that stone, probably because I only look at the 8" stones. I knew they made a India and Arkansas stone combination. It's a shame they dont make the ones you are talking about in 8", that would be a killer stone.
Thanks.
They do make such a stone. www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Crystolon-India-Combination-Stone-P701C25.aspx
Don't appologize, I quite enjoyed the rant. Greed will be the death of man. Thanks for your insights.
@@cluntbeastwood9794 Thanks. I totally agree with your comment.
It is unbelievable the amount of greedy people that there are now.
You would think the amount of money some make, would be enough, but greed has no boundaries.
I love a simple coarse grit stone... But the problem you had with slow cutting wasn't because of water... It is because you should condition it from time to time, Joe Calton has a great video on it... The abrasive starts to wear, so you need to remove the top layer from time to time, rough things up
Correct
the Razor edge two stone kit with knife guide always worked fine for me and gave whisker cutting edge.Norton sharpening was always my favorite but medium and coarse will go fast but fine lasts forever;I recommend the 8-10 inch multi stone holder.
That link took me to Norton life lock and not Norton stones!
Sometimes people get caught up with having to buy with their feelings nothing but the best and spending hundreds of dollars. You have to go back and look at what The Butchers and Barbers used to use decades ago before all this new high fangled fancy expensive stuff came out thank you for this video
230 stone,400 stone,1000 stone,4000 stone then 8000 grit green compound on felt,red compound dust on felt then finally 50 strop on bare leather.if you just need a touchup after 8000 grit then strop
@@wross5961 i just use my norton india combination stone I strop it a few times and my knife can shave
Yeah but now we have much harder steels.
@@gmuk101 yeah exactly no more plain old cast iron
Thanks John. Great video. I love when these type of videos come out to demo that you don't need lots of expensive equipment to get a sharp edge.
Thank you. Saved me a couple of 100 pounds as I have been following and getting confused watching all these different videos.
Would love to see a video of you sharpening your hand plane iron and chisels.
They sure don't make things like they used to. They make them better.
:)
The problem you mentioned at 3:30 is the CORE problem with India stones. They invariable load up and stop working. Sure they don't dish, but they also don't cut once they are glazed over.
Indias are great in expert hands, but a good Japanese stone is less messy and more beginner and user friendly.
If you only had enough money for one stone, it should be Shapton Kuromaku 320 . Nortons have been disappearing where I live, when you find them, they are very expensive. Like $45 CAD for a 8 inch stone. For $25 more, you can get the stone I mentioned. Splash and go, not soak, no mess. Long lasting. Fast cutting. No loading issues.
Watched this John Moore video about the Norton India Oilstone several times. Very impressive and even though I live in Canada I found in U.S. and ordered and received today. So will try and see how it works.
In my country, I can only afford a Chinese 400/1000 aluminum oxide stone. It still works.
THANK YOU. I've only ever heard of whetstones where you submerge in water. I just heard about oil stones. And every video detailing oil stones never mention what oil they use. To be honest I was a bit worried if people use a bit more harsher oils. And baby oil makes sense.
comedyspy20 how many babies do you need to make baby oil?
Ha ha
@@rhome4206 LOL ... first press baby oil is the good stuff
Norton makes great products...
Do you have a direct link? When i look on amazon i dont see your version and have heard theres plenty fajes from china. Plz and thanks
Hello John, I have watched this video about 10 times. I always come back here if I catch myself
of thinking that I need a 5000 grid stone. Your video always gets me back to the ground. Always a pleasure to see you sharpening. It seems to me that you use relatively high pressure on the strop. I have the Norton stone, but struggle a bit with stropping to razor sharp. Is the pressure you use on the strop the same as on the stones? Best Regards Matthias
My kind of guy ... cleaning his pocket knife off with a wire brush!! After looking, reading and learning a bunch more about sharpening the last 5 years I don't EVER remember my Grandfathers, Uncles or my Dad complaining about flattening one of their oil stones - especially the manmade ones! Some dished or got worn out but they found or bought another, makes me wonder if they even thought about wear or resurfacing their stones ever? Thanks for posting this video.
If I had to guess, most of the old timers probably never even even knew that stone flattening was a thing. It's easy to forget that before the mid 90's, the internet wasn't commonplace and you either learned these things by trade, word of mouth, magazines, or a library.
@@JohnMooreVlogs Some of the harder oilstones never needed to be flattened. The way a hard and fine stone cuts, a rounded or a convexed surface is actually ideal. It cuts more efficiently, leaves a smaller bur, and it doesn't slow down or need resurfacing. And the blade doesn't push the oil layer off the stone, creating a mess. Some stones are made somewhat rounded to begin with, sometimes called scythestones, but in fact they are used to sharpen all kinds of tools including knives and straight blades. I find it is very trivial to sharpen a knife on a rounded stone. It's just somewhat of a cross between a ceramic rod and a flat stone. You just work the area over the corners and edges of the stone when you're doing something dumb, like sharpening drill bits or awls or the point of a knife. Any rough work like this, you want to keep away from the center, to prevent dishing. Occasional reshaping might be helpful, but it is much less work and material removal compared to flattening a dished out stone.
Flattening stones is very much a good thing with softer, muddy stones. They don't work when convexed. The slurry gets pushed away from the area of contact, and the stone wastes away relatively quickly until the stone conforms to the shape of the blade... which usually means it gets fairly flat to somewhat dished before it starts working "correctly." Hard wearing stones are a different animal.
The Norton India is somewhat of a tweener. It is a hard stone, IMO, but it is bordering on soft. There's no wrong way to use a Norton India. It works great, no matter how you use it.
Do you necessarily need to condition it before you start using or is it ready to use straight out of the box? Thanks in advance, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing. Just found it on Amazon. 😁👍
Well done, simple goes to show you don't need much to get the job done, no fancy igimaichu gungadinga stone from a remote Island off from mainland Japan no sir.... Greetings from Maine !
Just start use this stone this year. It a good stone. Buy from amazom. From malaysia
iI've been watching a few prior to finally finding yours. Great info John. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
My knife is quite sharp now as it should be, being a brand new "butter knife" until now!
I like the idea of relying more on technique, because fancy stones won't save you if your technique isn't there. I was working on a secondhand butcher knife with this stone and put a really nice toothy edge on it, so I said good enough. But other folks have made the point about harder steels, and if you want to refine and polish that edge this stone is more like a good start. Tell you what's a similar option, though-those cheap Arkansas stones from Smith's that you get at the hardware store on a gray plastic base. Most people call it a medium and if you're just doing soft-steel pocket knives it might be all you'll need.
I have that stone from smith's. It's amazing for 25 bucks. It's all one ever needs
Norton Combination to establish a bevel and a Crock sticks turn block to finish is my favorite 1-2 punch for most my knives. Course DMT bench stone + crock sticks on Newer steels.
May you add a link to wear you got this sharpening stone at?
John …is there an Amazon link as I see many different products when I search India stone . Please advice.
Im one of those people with hundreds of dollars in whetstones. Ive got DMT plates, Spyderco ceramics arkansas stones and a number of waterstones as well. I dont need all of them and I dont use them all that much as part of a different hobby either. I just enjoy putting a razor sharp edge on a knife and trying out different brands and types of stones.
It's a lot of fun to see how sharp you can get an edge. A good stone is a dream to work with. What's just as important as the grit is the "feel" of the stone. A good stone gives you feedback. I have a couple Arkansas stones, but they don't get a lot of use because I get a serviceable edge off of my India stone for my EDC knife and bench planes. However if I'm doing something like planing knotty or curly wood, I'll sharpen up to about 2000 on an Arkansas stone then finish on the strop to get a super smooth finish on the wood. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
West Coast Warriors Archive if you decide to sell some stones hit me up.
I used one of those stones for years, it will sharpen knives just fine. Any sharpening stone will sharpen knives.
These days I have all sorts of stones, which one I use depends on what I am sharpening.
If you want to clean your oil stones, soak them in kerosene for a few days.
Wow I have that exact stone in my kitchen, haven't even used it yet.
Now that I know more I might get to using it.
I made up my mind. I'm buying this stone and a quality strop.
That bottle cap was a beast! Lol! Great video and information. Thanks!
The Bob Ross of knife sharpening...
You are rolling the edge with the way you sweep up at the end of your stropping stroke.
Solid point. Same of Arkansas stone.
Comes down to honing ones skills.
Money considered India stone is solid. Another consider would be King stone. Relatively cheap also just higher polish nothing crazy though
I agree with the opinion that this is a great stone! Especially if you're the type of person that uses their knife so much that they only have time to maintain a basic edge.
As far as the last stone you'll ever need... only if you don't really care to have an exceptionally fine edge. This stone will get your edge to a respectable basic "toothy" edge. If you need to repair a damaged edge or just put a decent "factory" style edge on a blade then this will be great.
I started out with this stone. The Mexican-made one. I still use it to this day! If you just want a sharp-enough working edge; use this stone. If you want a mirror-polished edge that feels deathly sharp and impresses your friends.. you'll need to move up to a finer grit.
It’s a great stone to get basic sharp toothy edge like you said.
Depending on what I’m sharpening I like to go to 600. 800/1000 and sometime highly polished on Arkansas, coticles or JNats. They work fast too :)
Why would I try to impress anybody? I need a working edge knive, not a polished, shiny edge to impress people. 😂😂
I use baby oil too. But I have to tell you that it is a light mineral oil with perfume added. I have excellent results using it.
Awesome!
I just bought a silicone mat off of Amazon, for just this purpose. Less than $10, works great. So you aren't chasing your stone all over your table.
Hello John I really enjoy your video to the point all I want to do is sharpen my own knife it just happens I own a Norton not knowing what I had my mother gave it to me she has work slaughter houses for over 20+ years after video I went to my garage and pulled my stone out love it but I got a real quick question for you what kind of leather is you strop?
Got a Lasky system and I replaced a stone much as yours and don't believe you can keep a blade in better shape your freehand system as I improved my bevels and next plan to better the Lasky with a homemade system I've started working on.
Can baby oil be used for kitchen knives? Great video
What alarms me is this spray foam and bodywork description!
2 stones is not to much to ask. Use the same oil. A soft Arkansaw is 100% American and is a good follow up stone. (finer grit) and will coast about the same as your norton. You would also be shocked at what a little green chrome oxide compound will do for that strop. So for a one time, lifetime lasting $25-30 dollars and 5 extra minutes you could have a knife 10 times as sharp. If you want it scary sharp, which you have made clear you don’t want or need, you have to spend some money.
I collect high end Japanese knives and yes have hundreds worth of stones BUT there is a reason! The India stone will work perfectly on less hard steels but when the HRC gets near and into the 60’s it kinda loses its ability. A 64-66 HRC knife like a HAP40 or a hard blue super the abrasives in India stones just won’t cut. For your everyday knife though I try to tell people you don’t need a 5 stone progression to get a sharp knife and the India stone and strop combo proves it!
The abrasive in India stone is aluminum oxide. And it's fairly coarse. This should be pretty good for abrasion resistant steels. What you use?
Not what I’d use for setting a bevel on a straight razor- too coarse, but for knives, I’d imagine the finest India stone would do the trick nicely.
probably why hes not sharpening a razor hahaha :)
Sir no offense but if you're going to give advice on the art of knife sharpening perhaps you yourself should learn about sharpening knives instead of demonstrating on a stone which is sliding around on a piece of newspaper all while using one hand
Definitely a convex edge.
Would this be good for d2?
Look me in the eyes john.
Ah but add a 3rd stone like a True Hard Arkansas Stone from Dan's. You go from factory sharp to surgical sharp.
You have link where i can bye one, and what is the grit for the obe you gave?
Very impressive !
you said in the description that the edge feels like 600 grit right? i thought of getting the spyderco but im considering getting this instead
Not trying to diss your method and all, but when you get to supersteels that are made today, you'll probably have to try different stones
Well he just needs a simple knife and sharpener combo to get the job done. Such "Keep it simple, stupid" demos always get me back to the ground :D
Robert Batey
Yes,, they can only grind these "super steels" with aluminum oxide in an industrial setting. It doesn't work at home.
Hi can you use the Norton stone yo sharpen woodworking chisels and plane iron
So that metal is soft. How long does it take to sharpen a hard steel knife?
People : Okay I’ll buy that, “too”
Man I laugh at some of these people on UA-cam talking about all these different grit stones you need to sharpen a knife, 1000 whetstone and a strop will put a razor edge on a blade ever time, plain and simple unless it’s wrecked, then start with about a 250-300 , been doing it for years on my pocket knife and kitchen knifes, I like your video, it’s just common sense
I agree, going through every progression of stone you have, and going to stupid levels (5k+) is just pointless.
For any usable work knife, you only need 1k max, I usually do 220-400 grit, strop with black compound, then with green compound, a couple times each, and it puts all the edge I need on the knife. Strop more when it dulls a bit, if need be, I hone on the stone. Rarely need to do any work beyond that.
Now, I will go to 6k (my highest grit) when I am sharpening for the first time, or just feel like it for aesthetic reasons, but I've only done that 2 times in the past year.
And, you also have, with softer steels (420HC, 440, AUS-8, and 8Cr13Mov) you can't hold an edge past 5k either. The steel is just so soft, the edge will begin to roll, or just not hold and dull instantly after your first few cuts. A lower grit sharpening is stronger, especially for soft steel.
Only time I see higher grits (6-10k) being useful is if you're using Sushi Knifes, or other knives meant for delicate cuts.
I’m a gardener in my own yard n love it but headgear shears n bypass everything needs sharpened! I don’t know how. I’ve been wanting lots of videos to find out what best. I’m not handy with tools at all. I’ve had them sharpened for me before but they didn’t do a good job at all. So I buy new tools. I’ve got so many. The electric tool sharpener I think might work better for me. But not sure 🤔 can u recommend one for a lady? Thank you 😊
Hi Donna. Ure right, u should buy an electric sharper. Get a strap as well fore the last touch and u be fine.
ua-cam.com/video/KBINMUdlJ14/v-deo.html
I really like your philosophy and dont meet many like you. Ive been favoring a stropped mediumish edge these days. I just got this stone today and dont really like how hard it is, i might be more of a water stone guy. But i love my strops.
Can you please provide the link to where I can purchase this from?
India Combination Stone by Norton
what happen if you don't apply mineral oil on the stone? will water suffice? i just sharpen it on dry surface and don't even use leather strop.
It'll wear slightly faster, and you won't move metal out of the way, so it will clog slightly faster. Not to much of an issue, nothing that can't be fixed.
Water does work on these stones, like a lot of other oil stones, but I would make sure before I apply water to any stone (either lack of cutting ability, or worst case, damage.)
I highly recommend getting a strop, makes shit razor sharp with minimal effort.
great video
I use a dollar store sharper and it works
I just want to know how to sharpen a planer blade. Period. The guy at Lowe's said all I needed was the wet stone---the only brand they had--and water. My son used the pamphlet and followed directions. Worse than before he started! Isn't there any way to sharpen Grandpa's planer so it does a passable job, with a wet stone from Lowe's? I think that he has given up; but I will keep at it. Thanks!
Unfortunately, that either takes a chisel/plane sharpening jig (to hold it at the proper angle while stroking), or without the jig, it takes practice...Alot of practice. Like, probably hundreds of hours of trial and error starting from fresh, to learn to sharpen different types of blades properly. I know it has taken me a long time to be able to sharpen different blade profiles...And each blade has a kind of learning curve. Try searching Chisel sharpening Jig or Planer etc, and you'll see that a simple sharpening jig can be made in less than an hour, and, that can help circumvent the learning curve.
It's not that hard to get an edge sharp enough to work with. Watch this video, ua-cam.com/video/U5Z5g-cyTVM/v-deo.html. Also check out Paul Sellers videos. I wouldn't advise a sharpening jig. I had no experience sharpening and by following Paul Sellers advice I was able to get a chisel and plane blade sharp enough to produce thin shavings. And the more I do it the better I will get. I'm not skilled by any means. Ignore all the noise about scary sharp and hair shavings. Just start with the goal of producing an edge good enough to work with. It will fall into place.
I used water is that stil ok?
Perfectly fine on aluninium oxide stones, like this one.
Can you use soapy water instead of oil
You have the coolest name.
Norton stone on Harbor freight ad.
you only sharpen your plane irons to 320?
Doesn't need that much sharpening.
My most recent sharpening, I sharpened to 220 grit, then stropped on black, then green compound.
Great video.
Love your “naavz” :)
Hello neighbor irl
Your 4.34k subscribers are obviously only lined up anticipating that you will lose a finger one day.................
What kind of stone?🤗
India sharpening stone.
You are wrong about that burr that moves from one side to the other. If you sharpen a blade properly. That burr will always show up. You have to strop the blade to remove the burr.
Herb Ray... I run a very small sharpening business I have various tools for diferent purposes Yeah I have a Norton but it is NOT my favorite. Razor Edge has 2 stones a course and a very fine Yup thats why they call it Razor Edge. I also have and use waterstones , Diamond plates, a KME, a 1by 30, And an Edge Pro Professional.that I love for polishing and repeatability. Oh yes can't forget the Tormec T7. Each of these has a use aaa purpose and tradeoff's. Crap knives (the steel can flake off before your done) and tip repairs get the 1 X30 it's quick and easy. not too many people request waterstones to be used it's labor intensive and costs more . a carpenter has more than one hammer, a mechanic has many wrenches, this isn't a ONE TOOL world . there is a phrase : the proper tool for the proper job...
This could be only stone you ever need, as long as you don't use any modern "supersteels" , even as common as S30V. The aluminum oxide/silicon carbide in the India stones will kind of get a steel like that sharp, but they are not hard enough to cut the Vanadium carbides in modern steels at all, so you are not being efficient with either money or steel choice. Even cheap Harbor Freight diamond plates will sharpen almost anything, and last a long time if you know what you are doing. India's do put a fine edge on high carbon steel though, and if that is all you have, they work good for that at least.
yeh I've been using mine since 1985 but had to upgrade to diamond when I got a Buck with S30V
mwms71 I’ve reprofiled s90v on aluminum oxide. They do work. What do you think water stones are?
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Aluminum oxide knoop hardness- 2100. Silicon Carbide knoop hardness 2480. Vanadium Carbide knoop hardness 2600. While you got the knife sharp, you weren't sharpening any of the vanadium carbides (that make the steel a supersteel) . This is why it is inefficient to use anything less than diamonds (7000 knoop) on steels like these. Wasting time and not sharpening the elements of steel that make them supersteels.
I cringe every time he hits the coil on that stone
Ugghhhhh... not on the harbor freight coupons.... come on!!!
It’s 35 bucks on Amazon 7/27/23
I use Kerosene on my stone.
Nice where can I get one?
Amazon is where I got mine. I got the 8-inch version.
8 min in and still no sharpening
Try going backwards, staying on one until a burr develops. Blade @ 45° perpendicular to the stone, work edge with fingers, split the blade length in parts and just go slowly and razor focus on keeping the blade still and keeping your arm,wrist,and hand rigid like wood. Do this 'just' until a burr develops, on the section worked on, move on full blade lengh. Now flip and repeat. Sand down the burr by doing the exact same thing...but super light, until the slightest touch reveals no burr, and now finer sanding, lighter touch, removing the high ridges of the surface. Watch a Murray Carter video.
@@dammitman1664 I think he was saying that 8 minutes into the video, there's still no sharpening going on 🤣
We 40 is the best oil to use on an oil stone
Evaporates, stinks, flamable, and isn't all that great, water does better, in my experience.
That said, I haven't SOAKED a stone in WD-40.
They presoak in Vaseline petroleum jelly you are correct.
Super Mario. 😁
Hahahaha...you can get rubber shelving material from the Dollar store for grip. Easy to size and super cheap!!
Your stropping block needs a handle,you'll never go back.
Lmao I used a wet stone and put mink oil on it worked out nice
Yeah, really fast. Pfffft. You should make a video of paint drying or grass growing
Can you sharpen swords with the stone too ?
You can...but it would take a really long time!..
Do you think this would be OK to use to sharpen a axe 🪓
Thanks for teaching me. Gonna buy that stone ans leather strop
How much force to use? What angel to use? My stone is kicking my arse! Lol
About 3/4 pounds, less as go in higher grit. kitchen knives around 18/20dps outdoor or hunting knives around 20/25dps. Use a sharpie marker and put marks on the edge so you know when you are to steep or shallow 👌🏽 Also deburr with wood in between stropping.
Is it not jung Albert Einstein's moustache?
Why not use water.
My one was my grandpa’s. it was dated for 1993 yes it is the USA made one. But safe to say it lasts.
Have the same stone but in 400/1000 like it....
Can you use olive oil?
It will become hard and grimy with aging, just like if you left some in an open jar. Don't do it to your stone. Lansky sell honing oil, it's dirt cheap, but it ain't dirt ;)
Just go buy a bottle of mineral oil laxative it’s less than two dollars for a large sized bottle. And it’s cheaper than buying regular mineral oil yet it’s the exact same thing.
When you brought that file out, you lost me. I cringed a little.
What file?
@@autumn5592 wire brush. Not file. My bad. Looks like it would scratch the heck outta that thing
@@richterknives He said he uses it for work stuff (cutting random shit), so I doubt it would give it any more scratches than it already has -- Work knives don't need to look pretty, and if you actually use your knive, and not put it in a safe, you won't care what it looks like, rather how well it cuts.
Knife steel is harder than the steel in wire brushes, so it won't do that much damage.