Volvo V70 D5 Injector Replacement / Faulty Diesel Injector Diagnose and Repair
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- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
- Symptoms of and how to replace a faulty diesel injector. Volvo V70 163 model but same for D5 and many other models of diesel Volvo.
Same or similar process for many common rail diesel engine cars
Volvo V70/S40/S50/V50/V40/S60/S80/S90 etc D2/D3/D4/D5/Tdi etc
The best headlight removal system by far is on those Volvos.
After any sort of injector issues , either petrol or diesel I always insist on doing an oil change ,, many modern cars can spin bearings with even a hint of oil dilution ...
It is good innit, I show it in this video.
This cars got/had a few issues recently. We’ve got the shitter running ok now and will be getting a good oil flush soon hopefully
This is the headlight removal you was talking about 🤣 ua-cam.com/video/C_3mN15gh6s/v-deo.html
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos as per previous , if ts had dilution it wont need a flush lol
once an injectors leaking at one end , odds on its not right at the other ,,, bit like a dodgy curry , both ends at once , ,,, no extra flushing required .
yep the hand grenade system ,,, pull the pin and hope for the result you wish for.
Many thanks for your video. I started to get fuel pressure regulator faults about a year ago. Twice after an hard acceleration on a. Motorway the engine cut off. I tried to change the regulator and sensor, filters. Nothing helped. I checked the Injectors and one is leaking badly. I'm planning to change it soon. Your video filled me with hope again.
Thanks
The injector leaking back can definitely cause your issue so I’d definitely agree that changing it should sort the problem. As long as it isn’t seized in, then it’s a nice easy job.
I've just replaced injector no 1 as it was badly leaking. On the scanner its dose was about 5.4 here other 4 are very close to 0 (- 0.01 to 0.05)
Ive installed and coded a brand new (not rebuild) bosh injector. It is a massive improvement! It has a dose of 0.03 so very similar to other onea in my engine. Engine starts a lot softer and faster than before. Many thanks for the video. It helped in my issue as I was blaming the rail.
Just happened to my d5 v70 I was thinking my fuel pump had gone but am hoping it’s just a injector now, I put my foot down for a split second and engine service system required came up then next couple mile later car lost power and shut off and wouldn’t turn back on but will crank over
@@M1.942 stop safely on the hard shoulder. Take the fob out of the slot and put it back on. It will start then.
After that tour automatic gearbox will need some time to start to wark. Mine locked on the first gear for about a minute. I have noticed that you need to rev the engine to the rpm's when it lost power. After that it will start shifting.
Good lick with your issue
@@M1.942 have you tried a bit of brake cleaner to see if that gets it started? I’d advise doing a leak off test to see if any injectors are leaking back excessively
As ever your automotive knowledge ans experiance knows no bounds sir 🎩👍
It’s all smoke and mirrors. Really I know fuck all useful.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos i was just biggin you up bruvva to all those new subscribers.........🤣🤣
@@bettyourcampervan does he have any subscribers that he doesn't know personally?
@@sally6457 🤣🤣
YES!!! pmsl new sub from me... great straight talking shit.. love it.
Thanks mate 🤣
YES!
YES
No coding? Boooohhhhh. On the other hand, redeemed by the EPIC foot tap... YES!!
Sorry about that. The foot tap is probably the only good thing in most of my videos tbh 😂
The ecu will figure it out after a few miles and adjust the fuel trim to compensate.
Hi, I noticed, you did not prime the fuel lines but the motor started right away anyway. Mine doesn't start anymore, after replacing the valve cover gasket. By the way, great explained video. Even about, how the injector claps go back on the injector.
Hi mate. These are commonrail so as long as there’s no major issues it should self prime. Not all commonrail systems do but most do as long as they have a lift pump. I’m pretty sure these ones are in the tank.
Also, thanks mate
Thank you! Mine is a common rail injector but I don't know what that mean.
@@BlueSky-bx5tf I mean the system should be self priming. The reason I changed this injector was because it was throwing the fuel back to the tank from the leak off too fast for the hp pump to keep up on cranking, so it wouldn’t build pressure enough to reach the threshold to open on the injectors and run. It would fire up if you gave it a sniff of easy start though. Could be worth a go in your case to get it going but be sparing with it
I was thinking too, to pray in some starter fluid. Where would I have to spray it in, in the air cleaner box? After I replaced the valve cover gasket, the motor doesn't start anymore.
@@BlueSky-bx5tf yea in the air filter box should be fine. Only a little squirt as if there’s no fuel at the pump and it runs too long it will kill the pump. You could try cracking an injector to see if fuel is there first. Where I spray the turbo cleaner in this video could be better built at filter box be fine
ua-cam.com/video/fR7OXJRCumM/v-deo.htmlsi=XjYu6IELcK3ettYt
Another way to get the injector out would be to crank the engine over and starting it with nothing holding it in. However, I wouldn't advise doing this because, while it was indeed a successful method of getting the injector out of the head, it also removed it out of the engine bay and traveled at least 20 foot up in the air because it was eventually found on the roof of a building. Yes.
Removes the injector out of the head, and installs it into the forehead.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Your reply has me cracking up 🤣 Into the forehead🤣🤣
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos might knock a bit of sense into you? 🤔
stayed for the coding, cried
Sorry, I’ll try to do better in future 😞
Any plans to show the coding?
Ab Werk wird jeder Injektor trocken eingesetzt, nahezu jeder Mechaniker hatte in seinem Leben mindestens einen absolut festsitzenden Injektor, aber nur jeder zweite fettet die Teile vor der Montage mit Antiseize ein. Muss ich das verstehen?
@@p.s.7396 Um ehrlich zu sein, ist das meiste, was festklebt, auf Kohlenstoffablagerungen zurückzuführen, aber in manchen Fällen sollte Anti-Siebe helfen
Klar, weiß ich. Ich sag es mal anders. Die Injektoren sind herstellerseitig nicht beschichtet, meist kommt nur eine chemische Oxidationsschicht zum Einsatz, deswegen rosten die Teile auch dermaßen. Durch den Rost wird die Oberfläche rauer, was Injektoren erst recht festbacken lässt wenn erneute Verteerung entsteht. Fettet ihr sie vor dem Wiedereinbau nicht ein, dann bekommt ihr sie beim nächten mal erst recht nicht mehr raus. Also penibel säubern, eine möglichst glatte Oberfläche schaffen und so viel Fett auftragen wie der Spalt zwischen Schacht und Injektor maximal zulässt.
Wer sein Auto liebt, der baut die Teile pauschal alle 100.000 km aus, denn dann gibt es im Falle des Falles kaum Ärger mit defekten Dichtungen und bombenfest sitzenden Teilen, bei denen der Injektor demoliert oder im worst case der Zylinderkopf geschrottet wird. Gibt es oft, das ist kein Spaß, weil sündhaft teuer.
Hi, it's possible to remove only intake manifold (uper part) instead all rocker cover in case clean it from oil and carbon deposit ?
It’s all one piece if I remember right. The inlet manifold is part of the rocker cover
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos thx
Is coding essential if replacing for a second hand/reconditioned one?
Nah. You should really do it as it’s a calibration code, but these will usually sort themselves out without it. The one in the vid still hasn’t been coded in yet I don’t think 😂
"Low coolant" hope its not the head😑😑😑
Fuck it, not my car 🤷♀️
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos 😂😂😂👍
Leaking???😲
Leek’n!?
Are you an American pretending to be British?
Something like that 🤔