Another tip is you don't even have to unbolt the exhaust at the headers, just unbolt the two bolts before the muffler and then put a 2x4 against the frame and cross brace and put some pressure on the exhaust pipe with a ratchet strap to pull it down about 1/2 an inch and you can squeeze out the pan.
On my 2001 Silverado 1500 I had to pry that clamp as far as I could towards the driver door to remove the pan. It was still tight, but the pan finally came out.
This was an amazing tip. I picked up some huge channel locks before I even started. Was able to use one hand to squeeze the bracket out of the way and the other hand to pull the pan down. 20 mins in and I had the pan on the ground. Thanks!
I just did my filter and gasket on a 2WD, I don't know if it's different, but I came in from the back side and used a prybar between the case and that bracket. Didn't put any pressure on the plastic piece at all. And 2WD have a shallow pan so you don't need to drop the exhaust.
thanks, the chanellock trick was very helpful! just a heads up, I managed to get the pan off by loosening the drivers side pipe to manifold bolts only and using a breaker bar wedged between the ground to pull down on the pipe crossover that runs under the pan while simultaneously pulling the shifter bracket away with the pliers
Great advice I’ve done this on 4 separate vehicles with 4l60e and each one that linkage bracket mounts differently and unfortunately that’s a huge deal
its two torx bolts that hold the mounting bracket for the shift cable on top of the pan, stick your head in there and unscrew one bolt completely and loosen the other one enough to move the bracket out. took me 2 mins
Yes, this is the correct way but only works if the bolt heads have not been stripped AND they're not seized in the threads. Space is very limited, especially with the front driveshaft on a 4x4. Hex head bolts would've been the better choice from factory and if I ever get my torx-head bolts out, that's what will replace them.
Just did a solenoid job Friday. I removed the bracket and dropped the exaughst. If they would run the bracket farther back and have the exaughst with a flat spot it would make the dropping of the pan easier.
YES FINALLY!!!! Man bro I’ve been at this for a minute now. I tried everything and couldn’t get the the stupid pan off. I did what you said and removed one of the torx bolts with ease!! Just my luck, the 2nd bolt was stripped. They must of stripped it when they installed the trans. I had to use some vise grips. It came off with a little muscle. Man bro I’m so happy you posted this comment, you saved me!!!Thank you so much.
Thank you so much did so many trans pans this worst ever thanks for help help more I lucent the transmission mount bolts jacked it up with a 2x4 . And the pair channel locks. . This was for 2009 Silverado. . people where taking exhaust down ect hell no .but thank you
worked for me, but I didn't have that bar to connect the clamp onto, so I had to get a big set of pliers and bend it by hand. Also the linkage stays about the same distance away from the transmission piece as before the modification, so if yours is like mine you won't mess up the shift linkage by bending that bracket. I'm not sure why GM didn't have this bracket extended out further and mirror the connection the lever has at the end of the linkage. That would have fixed the clearance problem when performing general maintenance. Why would they suggest removing the exhaust rather than designing it better? Nice solution though it will make it easier the next time I have to change this fluid at 200K miles. My bolts got stripped on the bracket so I couldn't' just remove it which is the other option.
Been debating on how to without as others say “bend” bracket? Saw this and just did it this same exact way - works perfectly!!! 110% !!!! 🎩 I tip my hat to you sir …. Have a merry Christmas 🎁
This is a great hack but you can remove the shift linkage first and then use the channel locks to squeeze towards the drive shaft to prevent any damage to the shift linkage. You can also use a c-clamp because the removal of the transmission fluid pan is easy with the channel locks but difficult if you're going it alone to try and hold the channel locks while putting the pan back. Really the best way is to just remove the two transmission mount bolts and jack up the transmission a couple of inches and the pan easily comes out without having to bend the shift linkage bracket. Here: ua-cam.com/video/gFtSdzOnR4I/v-deo.html
May there be a special place in hell where automotive designers spend eternity working on the crap they designed.
Another tip is you don't even have to unbolt the exhaust at the headers, just unbolt the two bolts before the muffler and then put a 2x4 against the frame and cross brace and put some pressure on the exhaust pipe with a ratchet strap to pull it down about 1/2 an inch and you can squeeze out the pan.
On my 2001 Silverado 1500 I had to pry that clamp as far as I could towards the driver door to remove the pan. It was still tight, but the pan finally came out.
Your trick is 100 percent useful. I put a C-clamp on and it allows you to remove and re-install.
Thank you!
I used a big c clamp but same cosept thanks for the video
Awesome tip Cameron! Just did it today and used a wire tie to hold the channel locks until I was done.
This was an amazing tip. I picked up some huge channel locks before I even started. Was able to use one hand to squeeze the bracket out of the way and the other hand to pull the pan down. 20 mins in and I had the pan on the ground. Thanks!
Thanks... My husband has been cussing out there all day. This helped!
So was I lol
Hahahaha I’m doing the same right right now 😆😁
I just did my filter and gasket on a 2WD, I don't know if it's different, but I came in from the back side and used a prybar between the case and that bracket. Didn't put any pressure on the plastic piece at all. And 2WD have a shallow pan so you don't need to drop the exhaust.
thanks, the chanellock trick was very helpful! just a heads up, I managed to get the pan off by loosening the drivers side pipe to manifold bolts only and using a breaker bar wedged between the ground to pull down on the pipe crossover that runs under the pan while simultaneously pulling the shifter bracket away with the pliers
Great advice I’ve done this on 4 separate vehicles with 4l60e and each one that linkage bracket mounts differently and unfortunately that’s a huge deal
Been trying to get my pan off of my 2002 and i am going to try it right now
im stuck and this video may do the trick tommorrow morning. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Ive been trying to get this pan off for a day now
I have a 2003 Chevrolet S10 four-wheel drive with the same transmission I had to move the crossmember back a half inch
its two torx bolts that hold the mounting bracket for the shift cable on top of the pan, stick your head in there and unscrew one bolt completely and loosen the other one enough to move the bracket out. took me 2 mins
What size bit for the bolts?
I did that before....I believe it was a T-40@@Desann963
Yes, this is the correct way but only works if the bolt heads have not been stripped AND they're not seized in the threads. Space is very limited, especially with the front driveshaft on a 4x4. Hex head bolts would've been the better choice from factory and if I ever get my torx-head bolts out, that's what will replace them.
Just did a solenoid job Friday. I removed the bracket and dropped the exaughst. If they would run the bracket farther back and have the exaughst with a flat spot it would make the dropping of the pan easier.
YES FINALLY!!!! Man bro I’ve been at this for a minute now. I tried everything and couldn’t get the the stupid pan off. I did what you said and removed one of the torx bolts with ease!! Just my luck, the 2nd bolt was stripped. They must of stripped it when they installed the trans. I had to use some vise grips. It came off with a little muscle. Man bro I’m so happy you posted this comment, you saved me!!!Thank you so much.
I have a 07 Silverado took all the bolts out and i am stuck on the trottle cablre bracket .thanks for the cheat!
Nice tip man, thanks for posting. Bout to tackle this job myself. What is the max width of the channel lock pliers you used in this vid?
Usually professionals don't just pray on thing I couldn't believe that's what they say to do but that how they do it
Thank you so much did so many trans pans this worst ever thanks for help help more I lucent the transmission mount bolts jacked it up with a 2x4 . And the pair channel locks. . This was for 2009 Silverado. . people where taking exhaust down ect hell no .but thank you
worked for me, but I didn't have that bar to connect the clamp onto, so I had to get a big set of pliers and bend it by hand. Also the linkage stays about the same distance away from the transmission piece as before the modification, so if yours is like mine you won't mess up the shift linkage by bending that bracket. I'm not sure why GM didn't have this bracket extended out further and mirror the connection the lever has at the end of the linkage. That would have fixed the clearance problem when performing general maintenance. Why would they suggest removing the exhaust rather than designing it better? Nice solution though it will make it easier the next time I have to change this fluid at 200K miles. My bolts got stripped on the bracket so I couldn't' just remove it which is the other option.
I having trouble with mine it's soo close but just won't make it u think I need to unbolt exhust was ting not to rusty bolts
should have left pan on then show and tell and turn camera side wards,need bigger picture
Did you ever change the 1-2 accumulator ? I’m planning to do the painless sonnax update for mine plus filter and new fluid
I bought a pinless sonnax. havent installed yet. You? any luck?
why not unbolt the bracket?
Because this was easier than unbolting the bracket as the clearance to take it off is crappy. And it said it could be done without taking it off.
Been debating on how to without as others say “bend” bracket? Saw this and just did it this same exact way - works perfectly!!! 110% !!!! 🎩 I tip my hat to you sir …. Have a merry Christmas 🎁
Fuckin genius!! Thank you for this vid bro!! 🤜🤛💪
Deep or shallow pan?
What year make and model is this ??
Not sure. they are about your common 12" long channel locks.
This is a great hack but you can remove the shift linkage first and then use the channel locks to squeeze towards the drive shaft to prevent any damage to the shift linkage. You can also use a c-clamp because the removal of the transmission fluid pan is easy with the channel locks but difficult if you're going it alone to try and hold the channel locks while putting the pan back.
Really the best way is to just remove the two transmission mount bolts and jack up the transmission a couple of inches and the pan easily comes out without having to bend the shift linkage bracket. Here: ua-cam.com/video/gFtSdzOnR4I/v-deo.html
Thank you
Lols…might try a c clamp instead next time!
Did this today and nothing interfered with the pan dropping on a tbss lol just have to move the pan around a little.
"rancho 4 inch lift on 35s" oh this doesnt pertain to my truck. next video.
Wrong I did it by removing the filter and the gasket un bolted mounts on t case that’s IT
That doesn't work. Ask how I know
Could have just removed the shifter cable and bracket completely.
What kind of interdimentional t40 torx bit setup did you use to remove the screws?
pretty sure you have to remove the bed to get to the torx screw that secures the bracket. no thanks.
Nothing special, it can be done.
@@walterdoss7950 It can be done without moving the bed . It's just a pain because of the tight squeeze.
Filming in portrait mode? SMDH
Wrong. All wrong. Everyone has their way, I get that, but here is a link to the video that helped me a lot. m.ua-cam.com/video/gFtSdzOnR4I/v-deo.html
Doesn't work.
Thanks for the channel lock idea , had my exhaust ( true duals cat delete , runs out of way of pan ……. ( in front ) down passenger side #99loudarado😂