Sorry everyone, I misspoke on the metric reamer pre-drill size. No need to keep commenting about it. You should always look up things like that anyway and not trust random UA-camrs.
Quinn ( no# 1 You Tube Machinist ) , little tip for you. If you pre heat the parts with a map gas torch it drives the moisture and oil off the part and gives you better penetration with fewer tacks . to take them apart put the stack in your bench vice . and just give it a shot with your custom made hammer.. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos...
Every time you say "Only with consent" I am not sure whether to laugh or cry. I love your sense of humor. I have learned a heck of a lot from your mistakes, and have gotten brave enough to make some of my own.
Finally! Someone in the UA-cam hobby machine sphere touches on % of snazification levels of effort. An important metric indeed! As the saying goes... Chrome doesn't get you home, but is does sell motorcycles. Cheers from huge fan in Alabama.
Re:stubby reamers, I have realrstate problems too. I found that the shanks were soft enough that my bandsaw could cut them without issue, similar to drill bits. Only the flute end is hard
It does look like a really good kit. Do you ever make changes to kits off the back of videos like this? For example, Quinn's decision to reference off a hole rather than the end of the part seems like a smart idea, is this the kind of thing that might make it into your drawings?
A trick I learned when separating tack welded parts after grinding and the penetration got a little deep, put one in the vice flush with the top of the vice jaws, then either use a hammer and punch or a wrench to twist the other part free of the mate.
Yay! New vid from my favourite Random UA-camr. Twenty minutes of chillin' with a mug of Damn Fine Coffee instead of doing household chores and finishing the video I'm supposed to be editing. Now it's time to take the Chihuahuas for a walk. Procrastination 'R' Us.
I love Saturdays. What a delightful partial build. I can't wait to see it done, especially as I happen to love knurls myself and want a knurler in my future shop. I'm getting closer :)
"Hatespiration?" I LIKE IT! ! ! ! And a key factor in some of my own tool making projects ! On holding the tackwelded stack of arms.... I heard the CRACK and listed to your explanation about the laser cut edges. It occurred to me that perhaps this would have been a good time to use strap clamps to vertically clamp the stack down to the table. And to provide clearance for through drilling and reaming to either lift the stack up a little with a piece of sacrificial aluminum or perhaps some square stock spacers?. As a side benefit it would have also given you some extra height for the other drilling and reaming operations. Your thoughts? Already looking forward to Part 2....
I really like the ease of how you do your vids . Im a very beginner in machining and just have a lathe at this time I have been looking at milling machines though so hopefully I will find something in my budget.Great content .
Great choice of a project. Thanks for an interesting video. I like to knurl things and so made a couple of knurlers but on the last one I put the arms on the wrong side while I was talking to the camera. I will put them right some day but it still knurls.
Nice job 👍👍👍👍 for tack welded parts I save old razor blades you can lightly tap them in to separate them just enough for a thin screwdriver when doing this though 1 you don't have to whale on it and two you have to accurately come down on the back of the blade if not you will shatter it the blades are strong in line but weak side loaded
I just received my order of some kits from Doug including the Machinist Clamps and Indexing Plates which you showed in earlier videos. The box was packed very well. The materials look good and as you said, the drawings are excellent. I am looking forward to making the kits. I did think about the knurling kit but decided not today. Dave.
Hi Quinn 😊 , nice job so far, it's going to be alot better looking knurler that's for sure, I look forward to seeing it finished, and doing its job, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Something I've never been able to get an answer on is if the circumference of a knurling wheel is not specifically sized to be a multiple or divisor of the circumference of the part being knurled, why does it not overlap and just chew up the surface?
They totally can chew up surfaces. But the knurling wheels are not powered or restrained, so if they get the chance to fall into their previous cut, then they will. It is even possible to get a coarse knurl to go twice around the part before lining up on itself.
@@criggie OK, now that makes sense to me, thank you. So, if someone says they don't like how it turned out and they turn down the part a little, they are just trying to help it track a little better?
Deep holes like Rifle Barrels. At CIL in Longbranch, Ontario the Barrels were drilled. The Europeans tend to use a mandrel and conform the barrel around the mandrel.
At 11.20 your mention how you were doing lots wrong when drilling. I am a Metalwork Woodwork Electronics teacher here in Sydney Australia. Getting students to build a stationary steam engine needed a boiler that has stainless steel firebox. Each stainless steel piece needed 4×10 mm diameter holes. I eventually concluded one needs to predrill a smaller hole, ensure twist drill is absolutely sharp, correct cutting speed and lard as lubricant. Otherwise stainless steel is extremely difficult to drill.
Another great installment of your work & wit. (You have consent). But on another topic, couldn’t find a reference in the playlist where you got that ScotchBrite disc from, I need one. Keep cranking out whatever content you can, have enjoyed the varied topics a lot.
I got a knurling tool kit recently, only it was marketed as a complete tool with “Made in China” stamped on it. Someday I’ll learn not to be cheap and/or lazy. Should have bought that kit from D Gray…
Cool little project. I was planning on doin this one myself, but your level of precision never ceases to amase me. I think I would have just drilled on the X'es. 😅
I've never had the tooling Quinn has (finally starting to get set up) but I've always used similar techniques for parts that need to be matched. If you don't and get it wrong you then have to redo and that is a waste of time and materials
A nice build so far. Might need to add one of these to my tool stock. Why not reference the gauge pin on the end of the vice jaws for the set screw hole?
I'm a sysadmin, but that involves enough software development nowadays that I also am a fussy lazy bum. What you're doing here and with the floatlock vice is what I'd like to call "Frustration Driven Development"
I have a nice knurling tool (even though it was made for a much bigger tool holder, a friend milled that stem to fit my little Myford). However I like using both straight cut and diagonal cut knurling for different applications and materials. where and how do you use knurling in your projects?
A bit hard to explain but if you replace the top rear pivot bolt with an eccentric arrangement with a suitable sized handle so that you can really apply pressure to the knurls. I saw this sometime ago in Model Engineer magazine. (or it's I'll)
This tool looks like it might be a lot more useful than the p.o.s that I got from Amazon. I just might order this kit. I’m still working on the Kant Twist kit that I ordered.🎃
For eventual finishing, not sure what youre going for, but if oxide black is your flavor of choice, then citric acid solution does a surprisingly good job at blackening steel. Cheap, can get amazon to ship you a 5lb bag of it. A bath of hot water and a large portion of citric acid will blacken steel. I did a pair of scissors that had exposed steel on the ground mating surfaces, and chrome on the rest. It has held up very well on the faces that rub each other, but not sure how that compares to shop duty.
Well, you can also go for something "stronger". You need sodium hydroxide and potassium nitrate solution in water (600g/200g/1l) and boil that. Sodium hydroxide will take care of degreasing and will provide proper pH for nitrate to oxidize steel
@@PaulSteMarie that is true. However, hot citric acid is not that much better. Safety glasses, safety gloves, work outside, get a temperature controlled heater. You can also try fume process, but I do prefer caustic salts over fuming acids. I've beed using much more toxic chemicals in my life, it is just matter of good precautions
I worried when I did not see you applying a lubricant. But then I could see the oily material. I hope later you say what you are using as a lubricant when milling steel. I am thinking of buying the kit and following the video as I do the build.
ok i have been watching your channel for ages now, when you on the mill and you edge finding, how does the mill know when to stop? and can that spinning thing at the end fall off?
We laser cut everything where I work. The unspoken rule is "if it needs machining in any way on a laser cut edge, make it from a stock material not from sheet (plate)." With that said, how 'hard' do you think the laser cut puts on the edge? In my old job we plasma cut everything and I know that can get hard depending on the thickness. I've got no experience w/ laser though. Thanks, love the channel. It's my relax on Saturday w/ a beer go to. Keep it up!
Laser jet Versus Water Jet? Little discussion please? (Water jet shouldn't affect hardness etc....? Expense, setup, accuracy, cost of operation, reliability, thickness drawbacks/comparison, variety of materials for cutting, accessibility...And what do cats think of them?)
I watched this whole video, and got a lot out of it! But I have a question - what about straight (non-diagonal or cross-hatched) knurls)? I'm hoping to replicate a missing part from my Rivett model "1R" watchmaker's lathe, and it involves a little disc-shaped knob to lock / unlock the tailstock, and there is a straight knurl around the circumference of the knob. I have NEVER done a knurling operation of any kind before, so I don't have any knurling tools except for the correct knurling wheel for the job. I've read that straight knurls can only be done on parts where the circumference is an even multiple of the distance between the points on the knurling wheel. That's because when the knurling wheel comes around full-circle, it might not line up with itself. Is there a way to knurl with only one knurling wheel? Instead of two wheels, like the scissors tool in your video's beginning sequence.
Ignore what you have read. Turn the part to the diameter you want, then try knurling it. It will almost certainly turn out OK, but if not, just skim a bit off the diameter and try again. The knurling wheel digs into the metal and deforms it, so working out the theoretical diameter is probably irrelevant.
"Reamers are like software engineers..." Hey! I feel personally attacked by that one! :P It's all good. Love the video and enjoy relaxing my lazy bum watching people with skill make stuff.
I do a LOT of knurling. Absolute hate scissor knurl tools. I'm going to build a tool that presses on both sides of the material at the sametime. The main problem with the scissor knurl is that they are subject to bend if you are trying to do a single pass knurl in harder materials such as quality barbells. Much Respect David Dennis Leitchfield Kentucky
Sorry everyone, I misspoke on the metric reamer pre-drill size. No need to keep commenting about it. You should always look up things like that anyway and not trust random UA-camrs.
People always love to jump on any slip up 😒
I have personally found your content fantastic, cheers from Australia 🍻
@@seanb250 100% agreed on both statements, and also greetings from Australia. 😀
Yes they do hello there from England 🏴
It happens. Please put the correction here, so we don’t have to go through searching for snarky comments 😂
Good morning Quinn and sprocket. Hope you are having a good day
"Easy peasy, lemon squeezey, but only with consent." I love it . I will be using it (but only with consent of course).
Yay new Blondihacks! Always love this day of the week.
This is me every week.
Quinn ( no# 1 You Tube Machinist ) , little tip for you. If you pre heat the parts with a map gas torch it drives the moisture and oil off the part and gives you better penetration with fewer tacks . to take them apart put the stack in your bench vice . and just give it a shot with your custom made hammer.. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos...
Cool project, Quinn. I'll be eager to see the next steps.
Every time you say "Only with consent" I am not sure whether to laugh or cry.
I love your sense of humor. I have learned a heck of a lot from your mistakes, and have gotten brave enough to make some of my own.
Finally! Someone in the UA-cam hobby machine sphere touches on % of snazification levels of effort. An important metric indeed! As the saying goes... Chrome doesn't get you home, but is does sell motorcycles. Cheers from huge fan in Alabama.
D. Gray Drafting and Design has indeed nice tool building kits and the plans are very clear.
Re:stubby reamers, I have realrstate problems too. I found that the shanks were soft enough that my bandsaw could cut them without issue, similar to drill bits. Only the flute end is hard
One of the best descriptions of a Software Engineer I've heard in a long time!
How opportune. I was just using my cheap Chinese scissor knurler this afternoon and cursing it. I ordered the kit.
Very cool. I put this in my cart last night, and then slept on it. And now this!! Thank you.
Another great video Quinn. And great job on the kit. Looking forward to next week.
I just started this same tool!
So far liking the kit, well done
It does look like a really good kit. Do you ever make changes to kits off the back of videos like this? For example, Quinn's decision to reference off a hole rather than the end of the part seems like a smart idea, is this the kind of thing that might make it into your drawings?
@@cooperised All customer/end-user feedback is certainly taken into consideration.
A trick I learned when separating tack welded parts after grinding and the penetration got a little deep, put one in the vice flush with the top of the vice jaws, then either use a hammer and punch or a wrench to twist the other part free of the mate.
Yay! New vid from my favourite Random UA-camr. Twenty minutes of chillin' with a mug of Damn Fine Coffee instead of doing household chores and finishing the video I'm supposed to be editing. Now it's time to take the Chihuahuas for a walk. Procrastination 'R' Us.
I feel like an animal; I need some chamfers!
Loved this and eagerly awaiting the next episode!
I love Saturdays. What a delightful partial build. I can't wait to see it done, especially as I happen to love knurls myself and want a knurler in my future shop.
I'm getting closer :)
"Hatespiration?" I LIKE IT! ! ! ! And a key factor in some of my own tool making projects !
On holding the tackwelded stack of arms.... I heard the CRACK and listed to your explanation about the laser cut edges. It occurred to me that perhaps this would have been a good time to use strap clamps to vertically clamp the stack down to the table. And to provide clearance for through drilling and reaming to either lift the stack up a little with a piece of sacrificial aluminum or perhaps some square stock spacers?. As a side benefit it would have also given you some extra height for the other drilling and reaming operations. Your thoughts?
Already looking forward to Part 2....
I really like the ease of how you do your vids . Im a very beginner in machining and just have a lathe at this time I have been looking at milling machines though so hopefully I will find something in my budget.Great content .
Just got my new mini mill and lathe. Love your videos. You’re an ace.
Last week's upload really wasn't my thing, but this week, back to the good stuff! I really love your channel.
Great choice of a project. Thanks for an interesting video. I like to knurl things and so made a couple of knurlers but on the last one I put the arms on the wrong side while I was talking to the camera. I will put them right some day but it still knurls.
Nice job 👍👍👍👍 for tack welded parts I save old razor blades you can lightly tap them in to separate them just enough for a thin screwdriver when doing this though 1 you don't have to whale on it and two you have to accurately come down on the back of the blade if not you will shatter it the blades are strong in line but weak side loaded
That should be a huge improvement on the "far east" version. By coincidence, I just made a start on the Hemmingway version.
Regards, Preso
I just received my order of some kits from Doug including the Machinist Clamps and Indexing Plates which you showed in earlier videos. The box was packed very well. The materials look good and as you said, the drawings are excellent. I am looking forward to making the kits.
I did think about the knurling kit but decided not today.
Dave.
Thanks for the exposition Quinn, helps a lot!
That looks like a fantastic kit. Great job looks awesome Quinn thanks for sharing.
Stubby reamers are extremely easy to find if you have a die grinder and a cut-off wheel :D
@@vaderdudenator1 Hard to remove from tailstock.
I get so stoked when I see a new post from you! great work as always
Hi Quinn 😊 , nice job so far, it's going to be alot better looking knurler that's for sure, I look forward to seeing it finished, and doing its job, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
Something I've never been able to get an answer on is if the circumference of a knurling wheel is not specifically sized to be a multiple or divisor of the circumference of the part being knurled, why does it not overlap and just chew up the surface?
It does.
They totally can chew up surfaces. But the knurling wheels are not powered or restrained, so if they get the chance to fall into their previous cut, then they will. It is even possible to get a coarse knurl to go twice around the part before lining up on itself.
@@criggie OK, now that makes sense to me, thank you. So, if someone says they don't like how it turned out and they turn down the part a little, they are just trying to help it track a little better?
The diameter of the workpiece should be turned down so that the circumference is a multiple of the distance between 2 teeth.
Another valuable and interesting video, thanks Quinn. It’s always a pleasure to watch your videos.
Literally what I've been doing this week - a Hemingway Basic Knurling kit
How do you find the Hemingway kit? How does it compare to this one? I'm in the UK so Hemingway is an easier source than D. Gray for me.
always great insight on how to reference features! fun project, very jealous
Deep holes like Rifle Barrels. At CIL in Longbranch, Ontario the Barrels were drilled. The Europeans tend to use a mandrel and conform the barrel around the mandrel.
thx quinn, got my one from paulimot, works fine, but love to see you, doing it step by step...
Spite is such a good creative motivator.
Yay!! it's Blondihacks time!!
At 11.20 your mention how you were doing lots wrong when drilling. I am a Metalwork Woodwork Electronics teacher here in Sydney Australia. Getting students to build a stationary steam engine needed a boiler that has stainless steel firebox. Each stainless steel piece needed 4×10 mm diameter holes. I eventually concluded one needs to predrill a smaller hole, ensure twist drill is absolutely sharp, correct cutting speed and lard as lubricant. Otherwise stainless steel is extremely difficult to drill.
I gotta get one of those deburring tools. Looking forward to seeing the rest of this series.👍
Thanks for the figures, both in imperial and metric!
I just love your content Quinn. That is all.
Thanks very much for sharing your experience ! Greetings from Belgium.
Hi Quinn.
Could you have used Loctite to hold the parts together?
Great
Quinn,
Could you have used the gauge pin against the vice jaws or would that have been too tight to get the pin back out of the hole for the drilling?
Another great installment of your work & wit. (You have consent). But on another topic, couldn’t find a reference in the playlist where you got that ScotchBrite disc from, I need one. Keep cranking out whatever content you can, have enjoyed the varied topics a lot.
Hatespiration, the newest addition to my lexicon. 😀
"Reamers are like software engineers..."
HEY! I resemble that remark!
I got a knurling tool kit recently, only it was marketed as a complete tool with “Made in China” stamped on it.
Someday I’ll learn not to be cheap and/or lazy. Should have bought that kit from D Gray…
Ooh...shiny!
Neat kit.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Cool little project. I was planning on doin this one myself, but your level of precision never ceases to amase me. I think I would have just drilled on the X'es. 😅
I've never had the tooling Quinn has (finally starting to get set up) but I've always used similar techniques for parts that need to be matched. If you don't and get it wrong you then have to redo and that is a waste of time and materials
Fun stuff Quinn, but teh intarwebs demands moar Sprocket!
Humor meter was pegged at 11 for this “exhibition“!
Love it! :-)
I rebuilt by my cheap scissor knurling tool by machining the touching faces and making a new pivot. That took the slop out of it and now it's decent.
LOL! "Reamers are like software engineers, very very fussy but ultimately lazy bums." Not heard that analogy before but can totally relate. 😆
A nice build so far. Might need to add one of these to my tool stock. Why not reference the gauge pin on the end of the vice jaws for the set screw hole?
Exposition vs X Position at 3:10, 💯 💯 Exactly my kind of humor.
I'm a sysadmin, but that involves enough software development nowadays that I also am a fussy lazy bum.
What you're doing here and with the floatlock vice is what I'd like to call "Frustration Driven Development"
I like this camera angle much better for presentations, I think you are finding it 👏
Thankyou 👍
Accu-track has a catalog that is full of great information on knurling.
Yaaay, tool build is always exciting and easy to follow along at home. Thanks.
I have a nice knurling tool (even though it was made for a much bigger tool holder, a friend milled that stem to fit my little Myford). However I like using both straight cut and diagonal cut knurling for different applications and materials. where and how do you use knurling in your projects?
Nice work; we like your tool building projects. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Narly knockout knurling news!
Love it.
Hey! I resemble that remark about Software Engineers! Lol
A bit hard to explain but if you replace the top rear pivot bolt with an eccentric arrangement with a suitable sized handle so that you can really apply pressure to the knurls. I saw this sometime ago in Model Engineer magazine. (or it's I'll)
This tool looks like it might be a lot more useful than the p.o.s that I got from Amazon. I just might order this kit. I’m still working on the Kant Twist kit that I ordered.🎃
Coming along nicely Quinn.👍👍
Great job so far Quinn, I do love your channel thank you.
@05:09, do you mean 0.5mm below the reamer or 0.05mm below? Cause 1/64" is far larger than 0.05mm
Great gauge pin trick, thanks for sharing.
Great build guide and thank you for the videos!
Thanks Quinn
Looks beautful! Would be possible to extend the arms further and put the adjustment screw at the end to have more lever advantage?
Quinn,
If you had a Bridgeport mill would you use it or do you think it would change the channel too much?
Mike
For eventual finishing, not sure what youre going for, but if oxide black is your flavor of choice, then citric acid solution does a surprisingly good job at blackening steel. Cheap, can get amazon to ship you a 5lb bag of it. A bath of hot water and a large portion of citric acid will blacken steel. I did a pair of scissors that had exposed steel on the ground mating surfaces, and chrome on the rest. It has held up very well on the faces that rub each other, but not sure how that compares to shop duty.
Well, you can also go for something "stronger". You need sodium hydroxide and potassium nitrate solution in water (600g/200g/1l) and boil that. Sodium hydroxide will take care of degreasing and will provide proper pH for nitrate to oxidize steel
@@PaulSteMarie that is true. However, hot citric acid is not that much better. Safety glasses, safety gloves, work outside, get a temperature controlled heater. You can also try fume process, but I do prefer caustic salts over fuming acids.
I've beed using much more toxic chemicals in my life, it is just matter of good precautions
Quinn. Would superglue instead of welding be a option to hold the pieces together?
I worried when I did not see you applying a lubricant. But then I could see the oily material. I hope later you say what you are using as a lubricant when milling steel. I am thinking of buying the kit and following the video as I do the build.
ok i have been watching your channel for ages now, when you on the mill and you edge finding, how does the mill know when to stop? and can that spinning thing at the end fall off?
We laser cut everything where I work. The unspoken rule is "if it needs machining in any way on a laser cut edge, make it from a stock material not from sheet (plate)."
With that said, how 'hard' do you think the laser cut puts on the edge? In my old job we plasma cut everything and I know that can get hard depending on the thickness. I've got no experience w/ laser though.
Thanks, love the channel. It's my relax on Saturday w/ a beer go to. Keep it up!
The technical name for the process at 9:35 and others is dialing it in with your "eyecrometer"
i ran a huge High Definition plasma table it would make parts that look like that too, the cuts where Clean
Excellent video.
5:35 hobbyist sized holes? oh my ...
Laser jet Versus Water Jet? Little discussion please? (Water jet shouldn't affect hardness etc....? Expense, setup, accuracy, cost of operation, reliability, thickness drawbacks/comparison, variety of materials for cutting, accessibility...And what do cats think of them?)
I wish I had known about this before I bought my Eagle Rock! Much rather build something than buy something.
I think you meant 0.5 mm, not .05 mm (=.002"), for the metric undersize prior to reaming?
I watched this whole video, and got a lot out of it! But I have a question - what about straight (non-diagonal or cross-hatched) knurls)? I'm hoping to replicate a missing part from my Rivett model "1R" watchmaker's lathe, and it involves a little disc-shaped knob to lock / unlock the tailstock, and there is a straight knurl around the circumference of the knob. I have NEVER done a knurling operation of any kind before, so I don't have any knurling tools except for the correct knurling wheel for the job. I've read that straight knurls can only be done on parts where the circumference is an even multiple of the distance between the points on the knurling wheel. That's because when the knurling wheel comes around full-circle, it might not line up with itself. Is there a way to knurl with only one knurling wheel? Instead of two wheels, like the scissors tool in your video's beginning sequence.
Ignore what you have read. Turn the part to the diameter you want, then try knurling it. It will almost certainly turn out OK, but if not, just skim a bit off the diameter and try again. The knurling wheel digs into the metal and deforms it, so working out the theoretical diameter is probably irrelevant.
You have a link to a OMEX NEW LATHE KNURLING TOOL HOLDER but I can’t find anything telling you how it is held for use?
You are correct: it’s the zed axis and not the zee axis.
Zed's dead, Baby, Zed's dead.
As normal a delightful and educational presentation.
Question, what are you using for after machined process to prevent flash rust?
Happy Halloween
"Reamers are like software engineers..." Hey! I feel personally attacked by that one! :P
It's all good. Love the video and enjoy relaxing my lazy bum watching people with skill make stuff.
I haave been wondering about the cheap knurling tools. Is the knurl okay and don't look good or are they just junk ?
As a software engineer, I resemble your remark!
Me too
@@richardgardiner242 And me.
Thanks - ++me;
@@ABaumstumpf - what a fantastic surname you have!
Thanks for sharing! Great video, very informative.
Which mini lathe are you using?
I do a LOT of knurling. Absolute hate scissor knurl tools. I'm going to build a tool that presses on both sides of the material at the sametime. The main problem with the scissor knurl is that they are subject to bend if you are trying to do a single pass knurl in harder materials such as quality barbells.
Much Respect
David Dennis
Leitchfield Kentucky
Great video , thanks for posting .
TOOL TIME!! Awesome! And yes, I am that old.