Sorry everyone, I misspoke on the metric reamer pre-drill size. No need to keep commenting about it. You should always look up things like that anyway and not trust random UA-camrs.
Quinn ( no# 1 You Tube Machinist ) , little tip for you. If you pre heat the parts with a map gas torch it drives the moisture and oil off the part and gives you better penetration with fewer tacks . to take them apart put the stack in your bench vice . and just give it a shot with your custom made hammer.. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos...
Finally! Someone in the UA-cam hobby machine sphere touches on % of snazification levels of effort. An important metric indeed! As the saying goes... Chrome doesn't get you home, but is does sell motorcycles. Cheers from huge fan in Alabama.
Every time you say "Only with consent" I am not sure whether to laugh or cry. I love your sense of humor. I have learned a heck of a lot from your mistakes, and have gotten brave enough to make some of my own.
A trick I learned when separating tack welded parts after grinding and the penetration got a little deep, put one in the vice flush with the top of the vice jaws, then either use a hammer and punch or a wrench to twist the other part free of the mate.
Re:stubby reamers, I have realrstate problems too. I found that the shanks were soft enough that my bandsaw could cut them without issue, similar to drill bits. Only the flute end is hard
Deep holes like Rifle Barrels. At CIL in Longbranch, Ontario the Barrels were drilled. The Europeans tend to use a mandrel and conform the barrel around the mandrel.
Nice job 👍👍👍👍 for tack welded parts I save old razor blades you can lightly tap them in to separate them just enough for a thin screwdriver when doing this though 1 you don't have to whale on it and two you have to accurately come down on the back of the blade if not you will shatter it the blades are strong in line but weak side loaded
I love Saturdays. What a delightful partial build. I can't wait to see it done, especially as I happen to love knurls myself and want a knurler in my future shop. I'm getting closer :)
I think she’s addressed this before, chopping down the shank deletes the center drill on the end which is a problem for reasons that currently escape me.
I really like the ease of how you do your vids . Im a very beginner in machining and just have a lathe at this time I have been looking at milling machines though so hopefully I will find something in my budget.Great content .
Great choice of a project. Thanks for an interesting video. I like to knurl things and so made a couple of knurlers but on the last one I put the arms on the wrong side while I was talking to the camera. I will put them right some day but it still knurls.
I just received my order of some kits from Doug including the Machinist Clamps and Indexing Plates which you showed in earlier videos. The box was packed very well. The materials look good and as you said, the drawings are excellent. I am looking forward to making the kits. I did think about the knurling kit but decided not today. Dave.
"Hatespiration?" I LIKE IT! ! ! ! And a key factor in some of my own tool making projects ! On holding the tackwelded stack of arms.... I heard the CRACK and listed to your explanation about the laser cut edges. It occurred to me that perhaps this would have been a good time to use strap clamps to vertically clamp the stack down to the table. And to provide clearance for through drilling and reaming to either lift the stack up a little with a piece of sacrificial aluminum or perhaps some square stock spacers?. As a side benefit it would have also given you some extra height for the other drilling and reaming operations. Your thoughts? Already looking forward to Part 2....
It does look like a really good kit. Do you ever make changes to kits off the back of videos like this? For example, Quinn's decision to reference off a hole rather than the end of the part seems like a smart idea, is this the kind of thing that might make it into your drawings?
Yay! New vid from my favourite Random UA-camr. Twenty minutes of chillin' with a mug of Damn Fine Coffee instead of doing household chores and finishing the video I'm supposed to be editing. Now it's time to take the Chihuahuas for a walk. Procrastination 'R' Us.
Hi Quinn 😊 , nice job so far, it's going to be alot better looking knurler that's for sure, I look forward to seeing it finished, and doing its job, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
At 11.20 your mention how you were doing lots wrong when drilling. I am a Metalwork Woodwork Electronics teacher here in Sydney Australia. Getting students to build a stationary steam engine needed a boiler that has stainless steel firebox. Each stainless steel piece needed 4×10 mm diameter holes. I eventually concluded one needs to predrill a smaller hole, ensure twist drill is absolutely sharp, correct cutting speed and lard as lubricant. Otherwise stainless steel is extremely difficult to drill.
I got a knurling tool kit recently, only it was marketed as a complete tool with “Made in China” stamped on it. Someday I’ll learn not to be cheap and/or lazy. Should have bought that kit from D Gray…
I'm a sysadmin, but that involves enough software development nowadays that I also am a fussy lazy bum. What you're doing here and with the floatlock vice is what I'd like to call "Frustration Driven Development"
Cool little project. I was planning on doin this one myself, but your level of precision never ceases to amase me. I think I would have just drilled on the X'es. 😅
I've never had the tooling Quinn has (finally starting to get set up) but I've always used similar techniques for parts that need to be matched. If you don't and get it wrong you then have to redo and that is a waste of time and materials
A bit hard to explain but if you replace the top rear pivot bolt with an eccentric arrangement with a suitable sized handle so that you can really apply pressure to the knurls. I saw this sometime ago in Model Engineer magazine. (or it's I'll)
Another great installment of your work & wit. (You have consent). But on another topic, couldn’t find a reference in the playlist where you got that ScotchBrite disc from, I need one. Keep cranking out whatever content you can, have enjoyed the varied topics a lot.
For eventual finishing, not sure what youre going for, but if oxide black is your flavor of choice, then citric acid solution does a surprisingly good job at blackening steel. Cheap, can get amazon to ship you a 5lb bag of it. A bath of hot water and a large portion of citric acid will blacken steel. I did a pair of scissors that had exposed steel on the ground mating surfaces, and chrome on the rest. It has held up very well on the faces that rub each other, but not sure how that compares to shop duty.
Well, you can also go for something "stronger". You need sodium hydroxide and potassium nitrate solution in water (600g/200g/1l) and boil that. Sodium hydroxide will take care of degreasing and will provide proper pH for nitrate to oxidize steel
@@PaulSteMarie that is true. However, hot citric acid is not that much better. Safety glasses, safety gloves, work outside, get a temperature controlled heater. You can also try fume process, but I do prefer caustic salts over fuming acids. I've beed using much more toxic chemicals in my life, it is just matter of good precautions
A nice build so far. Might need to add one of these to my tool stock. Why not reference the gauge pin on the end of the vice jaws for the set screw hole?
Something I've never been able to get an answer on is if the circumference of a knurling wheel is not specifically sized to be a multiple or divisor of the circumference of the part being knurled, why does it not overlap and just chew up the surface?
They totally can chew up surfaces. But the knurling wheels are not powered or restrained, so if they get the chance to fall into their previous cut, then they will. It is even possible to get a coarse knurl to go twice around the part before lining up on itself.
@@criggie OK, now that makes sense to me, thank you. So, if someone says they don't like how it turned out and they turn down the part a little, they are just trying to help it track a little better?
This tool looks like it might be a lot more useful than the p.o.s that I got from Amazon. I just might order this kit. I’m still working on the Kant Twist kit that I ordered.🎃
I worried when I did not see you applying a lubricant. But then I could see the oily material. I hope later you say what you are using as a lubricant when milling steel. I am thinking of buying the kit and following the video as I do the build.
We laser cut everything where I work. The unspoken rule is "if it needs machining in any way on a laser cut edge, make it from a stock material not from sheet (plate)." With that said, how 'hard' do you think the laser cut puts on the edge? In my old job we plasma cut everything and I know that can get hard depending on the thickness. I've got no experience w/ laser though. Thanks, love the channel. It's my relax on Saturday w/ a beer go to. Keep it up!
I have a nice knurling tool (even though it was made for a much bigger tool holder, a friend milled that stem to fit my little Myford). However I like using both straight cut and diagonal cut knurling for different applications and materials. where and how do you use knurling in your projects?
Laser jet Versus Water Jet? Little discussion please? (Water jet shouldn't affect hardness etc....? Expense, setup, accuracy, cost of operation, reliability, thickness drawbacks/comparison, variety of materials for cutting, accessibility...And what do cats think of them?)
"Reamers are like software engineers..." Hey! I feel personally attacked by that one! :P It's all good. Love the video and enjoy relaxing my lazy bum watching people with skill make stuff.
ok i have been watching your channel for ages now, when you on the mill and you edge finding, how does the mill know when to stop? and can that spinning thing at the end fall off?
I do a LOT of knurling. Absolute hate scissor knurl tools. I'm going to build a tool that presses on both sides of the material at the sametime. The main problem with the scissor knurl is that they are subject to bend if you are trying to do a single pass knurl in harder materials such as quality barbells. Much Respect David Dennis Leitchfield Kentucky
Sorry everyone, I misspoke on the metric reamer pre-drill size. No need to keep commenting about it. You should always look up things like that anyway and not trust random UA-camrs.
People always love to jump on any slip up 😒
I have personally found your content fantastic, cheers from Australia 🍻
@@seanb250 100% agreed on both statements, and also greetings from Australia. 😀
Yes they do hello there from England 🏴
It happens. Please put the correction here, so we don’t have to go through searching for snarky comments 😂
Good morning Quinn and sprocket. Hope you are having a good day
I very much enjoyed the x-position exposition. Puns are an underrated beauty
Quinn ( no# 1 You Tube Machinist ) , little tip for you. If you pre heat the parts with a map gas torch it drives the moisture and oil off the part and gives you better penetration with fewer tacks . to take them apart put the stack in your bench vice . and just give it a shot with your custom made hammer.. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos...
How opportune. I was just using my cheap Chinese scissor knurler this afternoon and cursing it. I ordered the kit.
Yay new Blondihacks! Always love this day of the week.
This is me every week.
Finally! Someone in the UA-cam hobby machine sphere touches on % of snazification levels of effort. An important metric indeed! As the saying goes... Chrome doesn't get you home, but is does sell motorcycles. Cheers from huge fan in Alabama.
One of the best descriptions of a Software Engineer I've heard in a long time!
Very cool. I put this in my cart last night, and then slept on it. And now this!! Thank you.
Every time you say "Only with consent" I am not sure whether to laugh or cry.
I love your sense of humor. I have learned a heck of a lot from your mistakes, and have gotten brave enough to make some of my own.
Cool project, Quinn. I'll be eager to see the next steps.
A trick I learned when separating tack welded parts after grinding and the penetration got a little deep, put one in the vice flush with the top of the vice jaws, then either use a hammer and punch or a wrench to twist the other part free of the mate.
"Easy peasy, lemon squeezey, but only with consent." I love it . I will be using it (but only with consent of course).
D. Gray Drafting and Design has indeed nice tool building kits and the plans are very clear.
Re:stubby reamers, I have realrstate problems too. I found that the shanks were soft enough that my bandsaw could cut them without issue, similar to drill bits. Only the flute end is hard
Deep holes like Rifle Barrels. At CIL in Longbranch, Ontario the Barrels were drilled. The Europeans tend to use a mandrel and conform the barrel around the mandrel.
Thanks for the exposition Quinn, helps a lot!
Nice job 👍👍👍👍 for tack welded parts I save old razor blades you can lightly tap them in to separate them just enough for a thin screwdriver when doing this though 1 you don't have to whale on it and two you have to accurately come down on the back of the blade if not you will shatter it the blades are strong in line but weak side loaded
I love Saturdays. What a delightful partial build. I can't wait to see it done, especially as I happen to love knurls myself and want a knurler in my future shop.
I'm getting closer :)
Stubby reamers are extremely easy to find if you have a die grinder and a cut-off wheel :D
I think she’s addressed this before, chopping down the shank deletes the center drill on the end which is a problem for reasons that currently escape me.
@@vaderdudenator1 Hard to remove from tailstock.
I really like the ease of how you do your vids . Im a very beginner in machining and just have a lathe at this time I have been looking at milling machines though so hopefully I will find something in my budget.Great content .
Great choice of a project. Thanks for an interesting video. I like to knurl things and so made a couple of knurlers but on the last one I put the arms on the wrong side while I was talking to the camera. I will put them right some day but it still knurls.
Thanks for the figures, both in imperial and metric!
Literally what I've been doing this week - a Hemingway Basic Knurling kit
How do you find the Hemingway kit? How does it compare to this one? I'm in the UK so Hemingway is an easier source than D. Gray for me.
Thanks very much for sharing your experience ! Greetings from Belgium.
Just got my new mini mill and lathe. Love your videos. You’re an ace.
I just received my order of some kits from Doug including the Machinist Clamps and Indexing Plates which you showed in earlier videos. The box was packed very well. The materials look good and as you said, the drawings are excellent. I am looking forward to making the kits.
I did think about the knurling kit but decided not today.
Dave.
Last week's upload really wasn't my thing, but this week, back to the good stuff! I really love your channel.
"Hatespiration?" I LIKE IT! ! ! ! And a key factor in some of my own tool making projects !
On holding the tackwelded stack of arms.... I heard the CRACK and listed to your explanation about the laser cut edges. It occurred to me that perhaps this would have been a good time to use strap clamps to vertically clamp the stack down to the table. And to provide clearance for through drilling and reaming to either lift the stack up a little with a piece of sacrificial aluminum or perhaps some square stock spacers?. As a side benefit it would have also given you some extra height for the other drilling and reaming operations. Your thoughts?
Already looking forward to Part 2....
Another great video Quinn. And great job on the kit. Looking forward to next week.
I just started this same tool!
So far liking the kit, well done
It does look like a really good kit. Do you ever make changes to kits off the back of videos like this? For example, Quinn's decision to reference off a hole rather than the end of the part seems like a smart idea, is this the kind of thing that might make it into your drawings?
@@cooperised All customer/end-user feedback is certainly taken into consideration.
That should be a huge improvement on the "far east" version. By coincidence, I just made a start on the Hemmingway version.
Regards, Preso
I feel like an animal; I need some chamfers!
Loved this and eagerly awaiting the next episode!
thx quinn, got my one from paulimot, works fine, but love to see you, doing it step by step...
I rebuilt by my cheap scissor knurling tool by machining the touching faces and making a new pivot. That took the slop out of it and now it's decent.
Spite is such a good creative motivator.
That looks like a fantastic kit. Great job looks awesome Quinn thanks for sharing.
always great insight on how to reference features! fun project, very jealous
Accu-track has a catalog that is full of great information on knurling.
Yay! New vid from my favourite Random UA-camr. Twenty minutes of chillin' with a mug of Damn Fine Coffee instead of doing household chores and finishing the video I'm supposed to be editing. Now it's time to take the Chihuahuas for a walk. Procrastination 'R' Us.
Hi Quinn 😊 , nice job so far, it's going to be alot better looking knurler that's for sure, I look forward to seeing it finished, and doing its job, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart UK.
At 11.20 your mention how you were doing lots wrong when drilling. I am a Metalwork Woodwork Electronics teacher here in Sydney Australia. Getting students to build a stationary steam engine needed a boiler that has stainless steel firebox. Each stainless steel piece needed 4×10 mm diameter holes. I eventually concluded one needs to predrill a smaller hole, ensure twist drill is absolutely sharp, correct cutting speed and lard as lubricant. Otherwise stainless steel is extremely difficult to drill.
Fun stuff Quinn, but teh intarwebs demands moar Sprocket!
Ooh...shiny!
Neat kit.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
"Reamers are like software engineers..."
HEY! I resemble that remark!
I like this camera angle much better for presentations, I think you are finding it 👏
I get so stoked when I see a new post from you! great work as always
Yay!! it's Blondihacks time!!
I gotta get one of those deburring tools. Looking forward to seeing the rest of this series.👍
Another valuable and interesting video, thanks Quinn. It’s always a pleasure to watch your videos.
Exposition vs X Position at 3:10, 💯 💯 Exactly my kind of humor.
Narly knockout knurling news!
Love it.
Great gauge pin trick, thanks for sharing.
I got a knurling tool kit recently, only it was marketed as a complete tool with “Made in China” stamped on it.
Someday I’ll learn not to be cheap and/or lazy. Should have bought that kit from D Gray…
I just love your content Quinn. That is all.
Thanks Quinn
Hey! I resemble that remark about Software Engineers! Lol
I'm a sysadmin, but that involves enough software development nowadays that I also am a fussy lazy bum.
What you're doing here and with the floatlock vice is what I'd like to call "Frustration Driven Development"
Cool little project. I was planning on doin this one myself, but your level of precision never ceases to amase me. I think I would have just drilled on the X'es. 😅
I've never had the tooling Quinn has (finally starting to get set up) but I've always used similar techniques for parts that need to be matched. If you don't and get it wrong you then have to redo and that is a waste of time and materials
Hatespiration, the newest addition to my lexicon. 😀
Coming along nicely Quinn.👍👍
Humor meter was pegged at 11 for this “exhibition“!
Love it! :-)
LOL! "Reamers are like software engineers, very very fussy but ultimately lazy bums." Not heard that analogy before but can totally relate. 😆
A bit hard to explain but if you replace the top rear pivot bolt with an eccentric arrangement with a suitable sized handle so that you can really apply pressure to the knurls. I saw this sometime ago in Model Engineer magazine. (or it's I'll)
Great build guide and thank you for the videos!
i ran a huge High Definition plasma table it would make parts that look like that too, the cuts where Clean
Excellent video.
Another great installment of your work & wit. (You have consent). But on another topic, couldn’t find a reference in the playlist where you got that ScotchBrite disc from, I need one. Keep cranking out whatever content you can, have enjoyed the varied topics a lot.
Hi Quinn.
Could you have used Loctite to hold the parts together?
Great
Yaaay, tool build is always exciting and easy to follow along at home. Thanks.
For eventual finishing, not sure what youre going for, but if oxide black is your flavor of choice, then citric acid solution does a surprisingly good job at blackening steel. Cheap, can get amazon to ship you a 5lb bag of it. A bath of hot water and a large portion of citric acid will blacken steel. I did a pair of scissors that had exposed steel on the ground mating surfaces, and chrome on the rest. It has held up very well on the faces that rub each other, but not sure how that compares to shop duty.
Well, you can also go for something "stronger". You need sodium hydroxide and potassium nitrate solution in water (600g/200g/1l) and boil that. Sodium hydroxide will take care of degreasing and will provide proper pH for nitrate to oxidize steel
@@PaulSteMarie that is true. However, hot citric acid is not that much better. Safety glasses, safety gloves, work outside, get a temperature controlled heater. You can also try fume process, but I do prefer caustic salts over fuming acids.
I've beed using much more toxic chemicals in my life, it is just matter of good precautions
I wish I had known about this before I bought my Eagle Rock! Much rather build something than buy something.
A nice build so far. Might need to add one of these to my tool stock. Why not reference the gauge pin on the end of the vice jaws for the set screw hole?
Something I've never been able to get an answer on is if the circumference of a knurling wheel is not specifically sized to be a multiple or divisor of the circumference of the part being knurled, why does it not overlap and just chew up the surface?
It does.
They totally can chew up surfaces. But the knurling wheels are not powered or restrained, so if they get the chance to fall into their previous cut, then they will. It is even possible to get a coarse knurl to go twice around the part before lining up on itself.
@@criggie OK, now that makes sense to me, thank you. So, if someone says they don't like how it turned out and they turn down the part a little, they are just trying to help it track a little better?
The diameter of the workpiece should be turned down so that the circumference is a multiple of the distance between 2 teeth.
Thankyou 👍
Nice work; we like your tool building projects. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
This tool looks like it might be a lot more useful than the p.o.s that I got from Amazon. I just might order this kit. I’m still working on the Kant Twist kit that I ordered.🎃
Thanks for the zed.
Gauge pin through the hole 90⁰ to axis! 🤯
I worried when I did not see you applying a lubricant. But then I could see the oily material. I hope later you say what you are using as a lubricant when milling steel. I am thinking of buying the kit and following the video as I do the build.
Looks beautful! Would be possible to extend the arms further and put the adjustment screw at the end to have more lever advantage?
Quinn,
Could you have used the gauge pin against the vice jaws or would that have been too tight to get the pin back out of the hole for the drilling?
We laser cut everything where I work. The unspoken rule is "if it needs machining in any way on a laser cut edge, make it from a stock material not from sheet (plate)."
With that said, how 'hard' do you think the laser cut puts on the edge? In my old job we plasma cut everything and I know that can get hard depending on the thickness. I've got no experience w/ laser though.
Thanks, love the channel. It's my relax on Saturday w/ a beer go to. Keep it up!
I have a nice knurling tool (even though it was made for a much bigger tool holder, a friend milled that stem to fit my little Myford). However I like using both straight cut and diagonal cut knurling for different applications and materials. where and how do you use knurling in your projects?
I've got a cheap knurling tool. That thing has so much slop that the knurls look terrible. Thanks for this video.
Quinn,
If you had a Bridgeport mill would you use it or do you think it would change the channel too much?
Mike
Thanks for sharing! Great video, very informative.
You are correct: it’s the zed axis and not the zee axis.
Zed's dead, Baby, Zed's dead.
A lot of bird killing with very few stones. Very nice.
Laser jet Versus Water Jet? Little discussion please? (Water jet shouldn't affect hardness etc....? Expense, setup, accuracy, cost of operation, reliability, thickness drawbacks/comparison, variety of materials for cutting, accessibility...And what do cats think of them?)
Great video , thanks for posting .
Foil can protect 123 blocks from splatters. I don't want them even on scrappy ones.
Hey! As a software engineer, I resemble that remark!
TOOL TIME!! Awesome! And yes, I am that old.
"Reamers are like software engineers..." Hey! I feel personally attacked by that one! :P
It's all good. Love the video and enjoy relaxing my lazy bum watching people with skill make stuff.
ok i have been watching your channel for ages now, when you on the mill and you edge finding, how does the mill know when to stop? and can that spinning thing at the end fall off?
I do a LOT of knurling. Absolute hate scissor knurl tools. I'm going to build a tool that presses on both sides of the material at the sametime. The main problem with the scissor knurl is that they are subject to bend if you are trying to do a single pass knurl in harder materials such as quality barbells.
Much Respect
David Dennis
Leitchfield Kentucky
Nice work
Quinn. Would superglue instead of welding be a option to hold the pieces together?
So so cool 😊😊😊😊😊
I think you meant 0.5 mm, not .05 mm (=.002"), for the metric undersize prior to reaming?
Stuffy reamers are nearly non-existent because standard practice is to just chop them down to whatever length you need!