I really had no idea how to get my accessories wired up until this video! Much obliged sir, you have helped me figure out what countless other videos couldn’t!
wow - simple but sooooo helpful. All my accessories were going on the POS terminal and I almost could no longer tighten the terminal. Appreciate this video soo much !!!
Your install has a high risk of fire. Your add-on fuse panel is rated for 100 Amps, which your total value of all fuses in the panel must add up to be less than. Your wire from the positive battery terminal to the panel and the ground wire from the panel to the negative battery terminal, or ground, needs to be sized for 100 Amps, which would be a minimum of 4 gauge wire. That power wire, from the battery to the fuse panel, must also be fused with a fuse rated between 90 to 100 Amps and placed as close to the battery as possible. The comments love your install, but your teaching unsafe practices.
Well I sure learnt a hell of a lot from you, this video, here in ye olde England, many thanks to all the guys like you who can be arsed, Bravo dude. Subscribed.
I wouldn’t run positive wires through the firewall, it’s best to run ground wires so nothing can short. You also need to run a circuit breaker to protect your vehicle from a short and you need relays. Halfway there but nice job thus far.
wow that was great explanation i have couple of questions 1) in that small fuse box. do you have the one wire from battery to that terminal and feeds all switches with fuses or you need a new wire from battery with fuse for every accessory light you want to add? 2) when you said wire goes to switch then comes back and go to light, are both red positive wires ? so you have 2 red wires on off and on position on toggle switch ? thanks
You should be fine. If you are running them when your engine is off you would want to calculate how many hours you can run it for. The equation is: (watt-hours of your batter)/(LED watts). You will get the amount of hours you could run the battery until it is 100% dead. I would take your # of hours and cut it in half to have voltage to start your truck.
Very helpful, thank you. I just installed an turbo fan inside of my naturally aspirated engine intake but was wondering about the wiring. Thanks again 😅👍
I’m interested in doing something similar to this but I’m worried about having hot wire is constantly running to the switches will that not draw too much power and eventually make your battery die? I sleep in my Tacoma and I’m trying to make a hard-core rig.
Use a relay and connect load side pre-fuse panel with control coming from Key-On Ignition. Fuse Panel will only be active while key is on if load is run through positive lead from battery to fuse panel. I would also place an in-line fuse between battery and relay and upsize to at least 10 gage. Fuse and wire gage should be sized by calculating total load.
I bought a nilight harness for some bed lights and I’ve got my ass kicked trying to get things to work. Think I’m gonna just rip the premade harness out and run black and red primaries and buy a fuse block
I bought the - “Bay Marine Supply 187 Series Circuit Breaker - 30A Panel Mount 48V DC Max - Ignition Protected Single Pole Thermal MRCB Marine Rated Weatherproof Manual Reset with Switch Function” Trying to learn if Im gonna need individual relays for each accessory I wire to the new fuse box.
Circuit protection is based on most vulnerable device in circuit. So conductors, termination points and fuse should be rated based on calculated load. Placing an oversized circuit protection device (Fuse or circuit breaker) in a circuit puts the conductors, switches, panels, loads at risk since it won't do its job before something potentially fries... Same reason we NEVER replace a known blown fuse with one that is larger or greater. Relays are arbitrary dependent on function. Relays are used to have smaller current control larger load. Circuit needs to be calculated to determine component and conductor sizing. This will also determine if relay(s) should be used. The other option is to ground side switch instead of running power to them.
@@92813justin This is a great example of "just because you *can* doesn't mean you *should*". Also, you should be much more concerned with the ability of your chinesium switches to carry current, not voltage. Do you even believe chinesium engineering specifications for garbage you buy on ebay? Thankfully you fused your circuit. At least that way, you probably won't burn down your truck when your switch overheats and fails. Seriously, dude. I'm not trying to be a dick; I'm trying to be helpful here and provide a bit of guidance. Use a relay next time, please.
Wouldn’t it be smarter to put all the switches on the negative side so you don’t have to run any hot inside your car, under your dashboard, wrapped around everything else etc. aren’t best practices to put the switch on the negative/ground period
@@RONIN1111 a circuit breaker only helps against an excess draw in current. But with something like auxiliary lights, they might run on 5 or 10A and that's normal for them, but very dangerous for you. A circuit breaker would only kick in if the current was to rise above, say, the 15A fuse you put in. But that is far higher than a safe level. You get what i mean? Basically relays are necessary, as necessary as fusef circuits, and should be used together in high current applications with user operated switches.
Appreciate the response. I’m working on a 2nd fuse box with a 100 amp circuit breaker. Just learning about how to safely wire power to it. Do I need relays vs not needing relays. Appreciate you again
@@RONIN1111 Relays are generally the correct approach, so the default answer is "yes, use them". However they are definitely not absolutely necessary in all cases. If the switch is truly rated/capable of dealing with the voltage and current you'll be running thru them, then eliminating the relay might be ok. But using a relay will usually allow shorter high current wiring from power supply to the auxiliary device. In application like this, that would prevent the high current wiring from passing thru the firewall and being inside the cabin. Also greatly reduces the load you put on the switches, making them smaller, lighter and less expensive.
Definitely DO NOT run power > fuse > switch > load! It should AT LEAST be power > fuse (as close to power source as possible/reasonable) > switch > relay > load /// power > fuse > relay (with switch on negative) > load. Doing it the way in this video, could possibly, end with u saying "well look at that! We have light! Red and yellow light... Waving... Wow, that light just turned into a REALLY LOUD BALL OF LIGHT!" Title of the video should be "Not the best way to wire ANYTHING in a vehicle"
Also, do ur math and run the correct gauge wire, with suitable heat rated sheathing when it's in an engine bay. My minimum is cross-linked polyethylene XLPE and my hands down is Tefzel ETFE (there are more unreasonably better wire types, than that, and I recommend those, if u plan on reusing em after u blow up ur car from using this guy's method of wiring). Yes, wiring pos to load to neg will work... How long really is the issue
I really had no idea how to get my accessories wired up until this video! Much obliged sir, you have helped me figure out what countless other videos couldn’t!
Thank you sir
wow - simple but sooooo helpful. All my accessories were going on the POS terminal and I almost could no longer tighten the terminal. Appreciate this video soo much !!!
I did this for my truck, absolutely worth it. Not gonna have a bunch of inline fuses and it completely separates my accessories from my trucks wiring
Your install has a high risk of fire. Your add-on fuse panel is rated for 100 Amps, which your total value of all fuses in the panel must add up to be less than. Your wire from the positive battery terminal to the panel and the ground wire from the panel to the negative battery terminal, or ground, needs to be sized for 100 Amps, which would be a minimum of 4 gauge wire. That power wire, from the battery to the fuse panel, must also be fused with a fuse rated between 90 to 100 Amps and placed as close to the battery as possible. The comments love your install, but your teaching unsafe practices.
Great video... how do you know the correct amperage for your fuses/switches and the correct wire gauge?
This is what I’ve needed to see! Thank you for the video!
You are welcome
This video is great. Thank you for keeping it easy for beginners. Much appreciated!
These are great simple tips I appreciate you man thanks
Happy to help!
This was an excellent video well put together thank you so much for sharing your info
Thank you sir. I hope you flew that amazing tomcat!!!
How has it held up?I’m installing grill lights and a siren today.
Still works like it is brand new. Even the lights have not yellowed or anything
Excellent video, man! Great explanations!
Roberto Cuestas thank you
Best install video I’ve seen for these lights !
Thank you. Enjoy
Simply brilliant, you have earned my subscription 👍👍👍
Well I sure learnt a hell of a lot from you, this video, here in ye olde England, many thanks to all the guys like you who can be arsed, Bravo dude. Subscribed.
Excellent video. I would love updated links because it shows that some of them no longer work!
I wouldn’t run positive wires through the firewall, it’s best to run ground wires so nothing can short. You also need to run a circuit breaker to protect your vehicle from a short and you need relays. Halfway there but nice job thus far.
👌🏽👌🏽
Whst circuit breaker do you recommend?
@@jasonrosas1295 Bussman
So basically your saying make relay panel?
I’d probably use relays as well
Nice custom fit switch panel. I’d like to have something to fit a custom place for my Silverado.
There might be something online?
CluEngineer there are. They just don’t mount in a location that I like
What AWG wire you use to connect battery with fude box?
You think this would this prevent the battery from draining from the auxiliary lights?
So this fuse box will uphold it won't melt?.
Would you still install this the same a couple of years later?
@@JasonCuriRockstar if you have the money I would get the garmin system so you don’t have to bring wires through the firewall
wow that was great explanation
i have couple of questions
1) in that small fuse box. do you have the one wire from battery to that terminal and feeds all switches with fuses or you need a new wire from battery with fuse for every accessory light you want to add?
2) when you said wire goes to switch then comes back and go to light, are both red positive wires ? so you have 2 red wires on off and on position on toggle switch ?
thanks
1. yes
2. Hot red wire goes to switch, red wire leaves switch and goes t to LED. Ground LED anywhere on vehicle.
@@92813justin you are a life saver bro
Hey man where did you get that wiring kit? Or whatever it’s called
I got mine from Amazon
Any issues with accidental battery drain - even with switches turned off?
No, the battery is 4 years old now and never had a problem after the install
Grazie this video helped me but everything I need for my underglow kit
Perfect!
Hey do you need an ignition relay for this?
You don't need one. I have mine connected directly to the batter so I always have power
Cool stuff! Where/how did you acquire that plate to hold the on/off switches? 1:44
I made that on/off switch and you can find that information in the description
would they turn off if i turned the key off?
When you instal a fuse box you dont need a relay ?
Technically no, but if something were to short, the fuse would burn up before anything bad would happen.
Awesome video ! Do you think I need a second battery to run multiple light bars or the one battery would be able to handle the load ? Thanks !
You should be fine. If you are running them when your engine is off you would want to calculate how many hours you can run it for. The equation is: (watt-hours of your batter)/(LED watts). You will get the amount of hours you could run the battery until it is 100% dead. I would take your # of hours and cut it in half to have voltage to start your truck.
Very helpful, thank you. I just installed an turbo fan inside of my naturally aspirated engine intake but was wondering about the wiring. Thanks again 😅👍
Where you get those switch boxes
I’m interested in doing something similar to this but I’m worried about having hot wire is constantly running to the switches will that not draw too much power and eventually make your battery die? I sleep in my Tacoma and I’m trying to make a hard-core rig.
Use relays
Use a relay and connect load side pre-fuse panel with control coming from Key-On Ignition. Fuse Panel will only be active while key is on if load is run through positive lead from battery to fuse panel. I would also place an in-line fuse between battery and relay and upsize to at least 10 gage. Fuse and wire gage should be sized by calculating total load.
great vid
I bought a nilight harness for some bed lights and I’ve got my ass kicked trying to get things to work. Think I’m gonna just rip the premade harness out and run black and red primaries and buy a fuse block
I bought the - “Bay Marine Supply 187 Series Circuit Breaker - 30A Panel Mount 48V DC Max - Ignition Protected Single Pole Thermal MRCB Marine Rated Weatherproof Manual Reset with Switch Function”
Trying to learn if Im gonna need individual relays for each accessory I wire to the new fuse box.
Circuit protection is based on most vulnerable device in circuit. So conductors, termination points and fuse should be rated based on calculated load. Placing an oversized circuit protection device (Fuse or circuit breaker) in a circuit puts the conductors, switches, panels, loads at risk since it won't do its job before something potentially fries... Same reason we NEVER replace a known blown fuse with one that is larger or greater. Relays are arbitrary dependent on function. Relays are used to have smaller current control larger load. Circuit needs to be calculated to determine component and conductor sizing. This will also determine if relay(s) should be used. The other option is to ground side switch instead of running power to them.
been awhile still working same as in vid? ur wires going from battery to block still same? they look too small gauge ????
Was just thinking the same
Why do you have two red wires going to the switch?
I can’t find your switch panel.
I am currently sold out. I’ll be making more in about 2 weeks
Did I miss where you used relays?
I did not use any relays
@@92813justin So all the current being drawn by the accessories is running thru the switch? And you consider this the "best" way to wire accessories??
@@GroovesAndLands I am was below the voltage requirement for these switches.
@@92813justin This is a great example of "just because you *can* doesn't mean you *should*". Also, you should be much more concerned with the ability of your chinesium switches to carry current, not voltage. Do you even believe chinesium engineering specifications for garbage you buy on ebay?
Thankfully you fused your circuit. At least that way, you probably won't burn down your truck when your switch overheats and fails. Seriously, dude. I'm not trying to be a dick; I'm trying to be helpful here and provide a bit of guidance. Use a relay next time, please.
GroovesAndLands, which relay would you recommend? I’m looking for something that has 4 relays in one.
you should put a large fuse in line with the fusebox.
Great idea, I will do that next time
you should wire that into a 12v ignition source instead...
Thanks bro
You are welcome!
Great vid. Bro. !
Thank you
No relay huh?
👍👍
👌👌
Wouldn’t it be smarter to put all the switches on the negative side so you don’t have to run any hot inside your car, under your dashboard, wrapped around everything else etc. aren’t best practices to put the switch on the negative/ground period
Electrons are still flowing through the negative side just as much as the positive side. Great thinking!
Excellent✌️🇬🇧no Sh1t as the car makers do every annoyance connected to ignition
Um...no relays? Not very safe for high-draw accessories like auxiliary lights. Tut tut.
Shazzkid what if he uses a circuit breaker? Does that help or are the relays nessesary?
@@RONIN1111 a circuit breaker only helps against an excess draw in current. But with something like auxiliary lights, they might run on 5 or 10A and that's normal for them, but very dangerous for you.
A circuit breaker would only kick in if the current was to rise above, say, the 15A fuse you put in. But that is far higher than a safe level.
You get what i mean?
Basically relays are necessary, as necessary as fusef circuits, and should be used together in high current applications with user operated switches.
Appreciate the response. I’m working on a 2nd fuse box with a 100 amp circuit breaker. Just learning about how to safely wire power to it. Do I need relays vs not needing relays. Appreciate you again
@@RONIN1111 wait it has a 100A circuit breaker or just a fuse?
@@RONIN1111 Relays are generally the correct approach, so the default answer is "yes, use them". However they are definitely not absolutely necessary in all cases. If the switch is truly rated/capable of dealing with the voltage and current you'll be running thru them, then eliminating the relay might be ok. But using a relay will usually allow shorter high current wiring from power supply to the auxiliary device. In application like this, that would prevent the high current wiring from passing thru the firewall and being inside the cabin. Also greatly reduces the load you put on the switches, making them smaller, lighter and less expensive.
Definitely DO NOT run power > fuse > switch > load! It should AT LEAST be power > fuse (as close to power source as possible/reasonable) > switch > relay > load /// power > fuse > relay (with switch on negative) > load.
Doing it the way in this video, could possibly, end with u saying "well look at that! We have light! Red and yellow light... Waving... Wow, that light just turned into a REALLY LOUD BALL OF LIGHT!"
Title of the video should be "Not the best way to wire ANYTHING in a vehicle"
Also, do ur math and run the correct gauge wire, with suitable heat rated sheathing when it's in an engine bay. My minimum is cross-linked polyethylene XLPE and my hands down is Tefzel ETFE (there are more unreasonably better wire types, than that, and I recommend those, if u plan on reusing em after u blow up ur car from using this guy's method of wiring).
Yes, wiring pos to load to neg will work... How long really is the issue
u r cute dude !
No closeups no friggin good dude
Where’s a relay? No subscription! People that don’t do closeups are of no help thanks for nothing