Best videos on the new zn8 chassis, picked mine up in November of last year and I've been religiously watching your videos. So much knowledge to be shared. Planning on going to my first skid pad event in the next few weeks and maybe buttonwillow after to take use of the free hpde event.
@@phelpsgarage4202 I'm thinking either some hawk pads or maybe stoptechs. As for tires some cheap 205's that'll hopefully last a few events for the skid pad, and for buttonwillow some michelin ps4s.
Thanks for the vid! I just ordered the baffle for mine. I feel good doing the job myself, I've got about 14k miles, haven't dropped the pan yet so I bet it'll really be stuck on there. I'll be sure to say hi if you are going to be at Sebring in June. (It'll be my first event).
Thanks for making and posting this video. I saw the forum post by Killer B Motorsports about their prototype pick up tube filter and thought about reaching out to them for beta testing. I have the Tomei baffle plate as well and now know that it won’t work. I haven’t tracked my GR86 yet but hope to this year or next season, depending on when I can get a dedicated set of wheels and tires.
@@phelpsgarage4202 Nice! I have some drifting friends who usually go every year. I may go this year. I’ve never been to Hyperfest before and am just getting myself back into motorsports. It’s been a long time and the last car that I had done any motorsports with was a 2005 WRX STi back in 2012, doing some autocross events here and there. I didn’t know much back then about car set ups and just ran with what I had as a daily set up. It was fun but I didn’t go deep into trying to remedy the understeering issue or get sticky tires. Maybe I’ll run how my car is now to see what the limits are during an instructed HPDE. Would You say that Continental Extreme Contact DWS-06 be a sufficient tire for an HPDE event? I currently have Hawk HPS pads on the front with 2006-07 WRX calipers, plus SS brake lines. I’m going to replace the rear calipers with WRX calipers soon, along with probably the same line of pads. I’m just doing modifications little by little as I can.
@@doubletapva9316 I would say it’s a good spot for learning. I don’t recommend getting the fastest tires until you’ve learned the limits of let’s say a 300 TW tire. Sticky tires are fast but don’t help you learn as much and they seem to hide the flaws in track driving. The fastest way around any track is always driving the fastest line at the limit. I’m not really good at it 😂. I’m running the DTC30 and HP+ in the rear and it’s a okay setup. I’m testing the CSG C21/C11 next.
do you have a follow up on the K-Bee Catch Can/AOS system? Is it difficult to get to the petcock drain valves? And lastly, what does the fluid that is captured look like?
The rear catch can had a couple drops of oil. The front catch can was bone dry. It’s not difficult to drain. You just have to be careful not to break the can trying to remove it off of the motor due to it being 3-D printed.
Glad you have very minimal RTV in your oil pickup. Did your GR86 come from a more recent batch? UA-camr CM Autohaus discovered less than usual RTV from a MY23’ GR86 built in October 2022. His suspension is they might finally be making changes.
This was the second time I pulled the pan. The first time there was more in it than this round. I have under 5,000 miles on the car, but mainly track miles.
I'm running a 370Z and did all those the same steps to prevent losing oil pressure on track. Oil temps read 285 coming out after the oil cooler (I run a Setrab series 1 72 row and -10 lines) when I'm getting after it for a few laps, so I run up to a 50wt (OEM 30wt). Also bypassed my TB coolant loop lol. These new cars definitely rip out there!
@@phelpsgarage4202 I got faster at the same time, so it’s a bit of a challenge to discern which was the major factor. I was around 2:30-2:32 on 30wt. Moving to 40 and 50, I dropped into the 2:27’s. Standard lapping I’m redlining 7500 (250-260 oil temps). Hero laps, I’m pushing 8K and that’s where I can’t keep the oil temps down. I imagine the difference in oil weight is similar to a standard vs 2 piece rotor. Two piece heats up fast and cools fast. Standard has more material and that fluctuation is less, but once it’s hot, it takes a bit longer to cool back down. For me, I’m looking for the right viscosity for the temps I’m seeing and need to find a way to reduce pressure on the back side of the heat exchangers. Forgot to mention, Sebring my home track to for time references lol
Oh, I’m certain you’ll get there. Maybe with a more aggressive brake package? Not sure if you’re oem or aftermarket. My goal is 2:25, but I have oem aero and I’m on mostly oem Nismo suspension. I just got FUCA’s so I can add some desperately needed camber. I run the same Bridgestones as well. Super fast tire, but I cry when I see how bad they wear lol.
Testing showed that the killer B baffle didn’t ameliorate the piling issues in R hand turns and through elevation changes. You have any data that disputes that?
You would be correct on the killer bee stuff. I know that the Tomei plate helps but nothing I know of solves the problem. There’s more testing being done
@@phelpsgarage4202 I’m wondering if Toyo or Subaru are going to fix this on the manufacturing side, but I can’t imagine anything short of a dry sump system totally taking care of it. They should have just gone with a Toyota engine from the start.
@@phelpsgarage4202 I would love to see that 3 cyl turbo in this chassis. Man, that would be awesome. My worry is that they may switch to the IS chassis for the next gen, which seems iffy.
for the 2 o rings that go in the oil pan, do they go above or below the baffle? i see where they lead to on the block, but having the o rings under the baffle seems to defeat the purpose of them, and putting them above the pan doesn’t seem like it fits right.
Thanking about it now I believe I went under the baffle plate. So it’s between the pan and the baffle plate not between the baffle plate and the engine block.
@@alimbmedia99 now you got me thinking… maybe it did go on the block? I can’t quite remember but I believe I did what I felt or fit better I’m not sure. Hopefully I’m not confusing you. 🫠
@@phelpsgarage4202 HA well it’s back in the car now, so we’ll see. looking at the video, i think see the gasket under the baffle in your video, so i should be goid
Re. Catch Can/s: Why would you connect returns to the intake? You are using car just for racing; so, don't have the returns (catch cans) Simply collect the oil in a plastic bottle (there is plenty of space around the engine) That's what we have done in European racing non-turbo cars.
I would rather keep it under a vacuum to help pull some of that crank case pressure out. Even though under wide open throttle, it’s not pulling much. It’s still easier to run it that way. And then soon the car is going to be turbo charged.
Best videos on the new zn8 chassis, picked mine up in November of last year and I've been religiously watching your videos. So much knowledge to be shared. Planning on going to my first skid pad event in the next few weeks and maybe buttonwillow after to take use of the free hpde event.
Thank you for the kind words!! What tires and brake pads are you using for the skid pad/track event?
@@phelpsgarage4202 I'm thinking either some hawk pads or maybe stoptechs. As for tires some cheap 205's that'll hopefully last a few events for the skid pad, and for buttonwillow some michelin ps4s.
Thanks for the vid! I just ordered the baffle for mine. I feel good doing the job myself, I've got about 14k miles, haven't dropped the pan yet so I bet it'll really be stuck on there. I'll be sure to say hi if you are going to be at Sebring in June. (It'll be my first event).
Good luck!! Reach out to me on IG at Phelps Garage when your going to Sebring.
Thanks for making and posting this video. I saw the forum post by Killer B Motorsports about their prototype pick up tube filter and thought about reaching out to them for beta testing. I have the Tomei baffle plate as well and now know that it won’t work. I haven’t tracked my GR86 yet but hope to this year or next season, depending on when I can get a dedicated set of wheels and tires.
Glad it helped someone! Where would you be tracking if you did?
@@phelpsgarage4202 Since I’m located in Virginia, it would probably be VIR in VA or Summit Point in West Virginia.
@@doubletapva9316 I’m going to VIR for hyperfest
@@phelpsgarage4202 Nice! I have some drifting friends who usually go every year. I may go this year. I’ve never been to Hyperfest before and am just getting myself back into motorsports. It’s been a long time and the last car that I had done any motorsports with was a 2005 WRX STi back in 2012, doing some autocross events here and there. I didn’t know much back then about car set ups and just ran with what I had as a daily set up. It was fun but I didn’t go deep into trying to remedy the understeering issue or get sticky tires.
Maybe I’ll run how my car is now to see what the limits are during an instructed HPDE. Would You say that Continental Extreme Contact DWS-06 be a sufficient tire for an HPDE event? I currently have Hawk HPS pads on the front with 2006-07 WRX calipers, plus SS brake lines. I’m going to replace the rear calipers with WRX calipers soon, along with probably the same line of pads. I’m just doing modifications little by little as I can.
@@doubletapva9316 I would say it’s a good spot for learning. I don’t recommend getting the fastest tires until you’ve learned the limits of let’s say a 300 TW tire. Sticky tires are fast but don’t help you learn as much and they seem to hide the flaws in track driving. The fastest way around any track is always driving the fastest line at the limit. I’m not really good at it 😂. I’m running the DTC30 and HP+ in the rear and it’s a okay setup. I’m testing the CSG C21/C11 next.
do you have a follow up on the K-Bee Catch Can/AOS system? Is it difficult to get to the petcock drain valves? And lastly, what does the fluid that is captured look like?
The rear catch can had a couple drops of oil. The front catch can was bone dry. It’s not difficult to drain. You just have to be careful not to break the can trying to remove it off of the motor due to it being 3-D printed.
Glad you have very minimal RTV in your oil pickup. Did your GR86 come from a more recent batch? UA-camr CM Autohaus discovered less than usual RTV from a MY23’ GR86 built in October 2022. His suspension is they might finally be making changes.
This was the second time I pulled the pan. The first time there was more in it than this round. I have under 5,000 miles on the car, but mainly track miles.
Do you think using a putty knife would be easier to drop the oil pan?
Could be. The first time was a pain but the second time was super easy.
I'm a huge fan of Amsoil. I daily with 0w-40 signature in my 14' monogram fr-s.
I just made the switch to 0w-40
I'm running a 370Z and did all those the same steps to prevent losing oil pressure on track. Oil temps read 285 coming out after the oil cooler (I run a Setrab series 1 72 row and -10 lines) when I'm getting after it for a few laps, so I run up to a 50wt (OEM 30wt). Also bypassed my TB coolant loop lol. These new cars definitely rip out there!
Did you notice if your oil temps were higher with the thicker weight oil?
@@phelpsgarage4202 I got faster at the same time, so it’s a bit of a challenge to discern which was the major factor. I was around 2:30-2:32 on 30wt. Moving to 40 and 50, I dropped into the 2:27’s. Standard lapping I’m redlining 7500 (250-260 oil temps). Hero laps, I’m pushing 8K and that’s where I can’t keep the oil temps down.
I imagine the difference in oil weight is similar to a standard vs 2 piece rotor. Two piece heats up fast and cools fast. Standard has more material and that fluctuation is less, but once it’s hot, it takes a bit longer to cool back down. For me, I’m looking for the right viscosity for the temps I’m seeing and need to find a way to reduce pressure on the back side of the heat exchangers.
Forgot to mention, Sebring my home track to for time references lol
@@ssfirehawk02 my goal is to hit sub 2:30 at Sebring.. I’m at 2:32.xx
Oh, I’m certain you’ll get there. Maybe with a more aggressive brake package? Not sure if you’re oem or aftermarket.
My goal is 2:25, but I have oem aero and I’m on mostly oem Nismo suspension. I just got FUCA’s so I can add some desperately needed camber. I run the same Bridgestones as well. Super fast tire, but I cry when I see how bad they wear lol.
@@ssfirehawk02 splitter is next and I think I got it! I love the RE71RS
Testing showed that the killer B baffle didn’t ameliorate the piling issues in R hand turns and through elevation changes. You have any data that disputes that?
You would be correct on the killer bee stuff. I know that the Tomei plate helps but nothing I know of solves the problem. There’s more testing being done
@@phelpsgarage4202 I’m wondering if Toyo or Subaru are going to fix this on the manufacturing side, but I can’t imagine anything short of a dry sump system totally taking care of it. They should have just gone with a Toyota engine from the start.
@@backroadblast6603 i hear that Toyota is moving to the 3 cylinder turbo next time around.. I believe a good pan/ baffle plate would fix the issue.
@@phelpsgarage4202 I would love to see that 3 cyl turbo in this chassis. Man, that would be awesome. My worry is that they may switch to the IS chassis for the next gen, which seems iffy.
How have the oil pressures been since?
It has help a bunch but the issue still remains.
Pushing the clutch and gas at the same time to allow cycling, is that factory??
Yep!
@@phelpsgarage4202 THE WHOLE TIME! Was it in the manual? lol
@@autosenses2960 😂 I don’t know 🤷🏻♂️
Why didn't they just choose a oil pan gasket ?
I’m not sure, but it would make life easier
for the 2 o rings that go in the oil pan, do they go above or below the baffle? i see where they lead to on the block, but having the o rings under the baffle seems to defeat the purpose of them, and putting them above the pan doesn’t seem like it fits right.
Thanking about it now I believe I went under the baffle plate. So it’s between the pan and the baffle plate not between the baffle plate and the engine block.
thanks so much for a quick reply! installed the baffle now 🫡
@@alimbmedia99 now you got me thinking… maybe it did go on the block? I can’t quite remember but I believe I did what I felt or fit better I’m not sure. Hopefully I’m not confusing you. 🫠
@@phelpsgarage4202 HA well it’s back in the car now, so we’ll see. looking at the video, i think see the gasket under the baffle in your video, so i should be goid
@@alimbmedia99 😂 did you see a bunch of RTV in the pickup?
How much faster does it feel with headers and e85 tune?
Hard to say but, it feels better and smoother. I’m going back to retune it soon. It feels like 25ish whp so not a big rush.
Re. Catch Can/s: Why would you connect returns to the intake? You are using car just for racing; so, don't have the returns (catch cans) Simply collect the oil in a plastic bottle (there is plenty of space around the engine) That's what we have done in European racing non-turbo cars.
I would rather keep it under a vacuum to help pull some of that crank case pressure out. Even though under wide open throttle, it’s not pulling much. It’s still easier to run it that way. And then soon the car is going to be turbo charged.
how you jack your car that high?😳
I use a 2x6 piece of wood to help 😂
@@phelpsgarage4202 That's how it is.🤣
So, getting on and off the highway will ruin my car. Nice.
Just over fill with 5w-30 at least it for now
I think you need to rebuild your engine and put a actual gasket and not rtv holy shit man
Lol that’s how they do it. I don’t think they have gaskets