Very cool. I have a recurve I may hunt with later in the season. It pulls 44 pounds at 29" and my arrows I have set up for it are just under 500 grains. Shots would be 20 yards and in. First I'll have my compound out to get meat in the freezer, though.
Spot/stalk with a “ stick bow” is the epitome of bow hunting. Very few things more rewarding than killing a deer this way. Or taking a cruising coyote that had no idea you were there. Thick brush after a rain or early while the grass is soft because of the night dew gives one a really good advantage. If possible, put the sun on your back if the wind is right. Even without a shot or a kill this is one of the best ways to learn REAL BOW HUNTING! Good video again.
I can't wait to see what you and Sam both get this year. I really like the videos where you both scout in together and you show us how you decide where you're gonna setup and why you chose that spot. Since I don't target any "specific" deer, I'd have to say I've learned more from your videos about finding/setting up on deer in general than anywhere else.
Nice. Really thinking of switching to this style of bow from my pure trad bow. The ability to interchange limbs with my Olympic setup alone makes sense.
Do ever plan on doing some spot and stalk hunting for whitetails like Jared Shaffer and Zach Ferenbaugh do. To me that's next level hunting. My second question is how many years does it to get at spot and stalk hunting for whitetails with a bow?
Maybe. Most of the habitat that supports that style of hunting is further west. I definitely wouldn't pass up on the opportunity if one came up, but it's pretty rare where I'm usually hunting. I really love the scouting and ambush aspect. But mule deer would be something I'd love to try spot and stalking for sure some day. It is really impressive what those guys are able to do.
This is a clear, thorough explanation of your setup and WHY you chose the components you did. Thank you. One question: You put a short front stabilizer on this bow, but how does that fit (if at all) into your conclusions about stabilizers for compounds in the excellent video you did on that subject? For example, target archers who shoot Olympic-style ILF recurves certainly use back stabilizers to great effect (which matches your own results with compounds). Did you try or consider one for your own hunting recurve? Best, Chris.
That amount of front weight allows the bow to balance neutrally at the shot. Without it, this bow tips back at the shot. So in order to gain benefit from rear weight, I'd need to add much more leverage off of the front end. Certainly long front and rear rods like they have for olympic recurve is going to be the most stable, but it also adds more to a hunting rig style that prioritizes minimalism. The way I have it set up is sort of a middle ground that's most similar to competitive barebow class. Easy to carry around in the woods but still somewhat heavy and stable when compared to wood bows.
Hi Garrett, I'm a longtime sub, a little off topic, replacement traction belts for the Lone Wolf Alpha & climbing stands aren't available anywhere, I was hoping there's an industrial belt somewhere that fits, or, if some company will manufacture them again. Sorry, I don't expect you to know, just taking a chance you may know something, since you're in touch with the hunting industry & know your stuff.
So I know you can definitely buy traction belts from industrial suppliers like McMaster Carr or similar that specify dimensions on the belt. What I'm not as familiar with is the design of their original belts and any reinforcements to know if they're 1:1 or not
Ive got a set of long gobis on a 19" satori with a springy rest. I shoot the heck out of it, way better than wood bows ive used in the past. Day Six 350s with 250 up front and they are super fast for 48# pound limbs
It's fairly easy if you have a process in place. I found trying to go back and forth between compound and instinctive traditional is tough, but following a repeatable shot process like NTS or similar where you can draw to load, lock in your alignment (like hitting draw stops) then mentally switch to aiming and expanding through the release is very similar to compound.
Ah yes. A fellow stringwalker bowhunter. We also shoot the same GPP at 11.7 I always get weird looks at the range by hooking the string almost 2" below the arrow. I also chose a brighter coloured serving material to mark my fixed crawl which makes it easier to see in low light. A fixed crawl was a gamechanger for me. Higher anchors just weren't comfortable at all but low anchors that were comfortable made gap shooting impossible.
Sorry perhaps a very dumb question, but are you using plastic veins or are they feathers and just oddly shaped? I was always taught that recurve bows should be shooting feathers only, but clearly your arrow flight seems lazer beam straight. Is it due to the use of rest that allows you to do so? Thanks in advance for info!
I am shooting an elevated rest which helps. With a good tune, the back end of the arrow flexes out away from the rest and doesn't really make contact with the rest wire or the shelf. Now, the vanes I'm using are very thin, called Trad Vanes from AAE. They are designed to have a ton of flex and be a little more forgiving, even shooting directly off of a shelf.
@@DIYSportsman Thank you so much for the reply! So, in your opinion, if I do not use a rest and shoot of a hair shelf, should I use feathers? If I have a rest but should feathers, is that a detriment? And finally, would using a compound "twin pronged" rest be an ok idea on a recurve (basically the kinds of rests that do not totally enclose the arrow, like a whisker biscuit rest)? Presently I a bow set w wire rest and with hair shelf and I should feathers of both. Thanks again!
@hexadecimal delirium You can use feathers with anything. Their only downsides are that they don't perform well when soaking wet and aren't as durable. When hunting they can make noise brushing against things too. But they are the most forgiving if there is any contact. In target archery many shooters might choose big feathers for indoor shooting and small vanes for outdoor shooting, and they are almost always using an elevated rest and plunger. For hunting, if you were going to try vanes with the hair rest, I'd try the trad vanes and compare against feathers. The vanes will be a little quieter, more durable, and better in rain. But the feathers will likely be easier to shoot well right off the bat, and you can adjust their length or height to get something that performs best overall for steering broadheads and not fishtailing too bad in crosswinds.
@hexadecimal delirium For drop away rests, there are actually recurve specific drop aways like the Zniper or Free flyte. They have some followers in target archery but can be more finicky to set up. I probably wouldn't use one for hunting. One thing to remember with finger release is that your arrow is flexing significantly side to side, which could cause issues with compound style rests.
@@DIYSportsman I guess the rest i was thinking of called "spot hogg infinity?" or its much MUCH cheaper clones on amazon. They look like a fork that is spring loaded that allows the arrow to push on it. But there is no "release" like drop away rest. it is all self contained. Either way, definitely thank you for all the info! I'll keep the vein suggestion in mind. I actually have some uncut bloodsport arrows i bought to de-vein, cut and turn into hunting arrows (because they fit the spine and price i was looking for), but maybe I'll keep few veins on and experiment! Thanks again man!
Nice. I picked up a wf19 at the beginning of this season and shoot the heck out of it, likely because of the mass. I always just buy the cheap tradtech limbs and they’re great, always straight. I love the ilf stuff but I do find myself missing just a one piece fiberglass longbow (which I have multiple that I love). You start looking at all the things on an ilf and I always think to myself “man that’s a lot of stuff that can come loose”. What nock point did you end up at with your fixed crawl?
How did you get the mini max to work with trad vanes? I tried with 3” trad vanes On Black Eagle Carnivores, the rear 3/4”would not adhere. My cousin had similar problems with 5mm Easton arrows and his mini max jig. He ended up buying a Bitzenburger to get his working
Actually now that you mention it there were a number of vanes where I had to manually stick the rear 1/2" or on after removal from the jig. Maybe lining that portion of the jig with foil would help. After doing a bunch of broadhead shooting I'm testing out moving to 4x 3" feathers at 5/8" tall just for the extra forgiveness of a bad release.
Yea they both have the heavy mass at the limb pocket design. I believe I read that the backwoods has more deflex than the wf-19 but don't quote me on that.
I already committed to filling my in state tag with a single string bow so I'm going to stick to that but will still use my compound for my out of state hunts. I don't have enough confidence with traditional to take it on a four day hunt or pull off the small handful of opportunities a year on older deer I've been following.
I got my first custom hybrid boy this year. It shoots 10x better than all of my other recurves. It's beautiful. The guy that makes it knows what he's doing....oh and....it only cost $600. If your interested hit me up. I can give you his contact info.
Thanks for the run down. I had not thought about a wrist sling for my Satori. Hope all is well for you and Sam. Definitely miss seeing yall hunt. Have a good season!
Awesome setup! Glad you have confidence in it. My 1 piece hybrid longbow last season was extremely accurate but the noise I had from it had very negative effects on deer on the shot. But I was hunting pressured deer. Gl this season.
I also shoot left handed. After a 25 year hiatus, I'm going to get back into archery. I've have a lot of work to do to get my muscle tone, and muscle memory back. I'm looking forward to it.
Awesome video… have you killed a deer yet with a trad bow? I know I seen you shoot at a doe in an old video and I was bummed after that that you picked the compound back up. I thought you had given up on the trad hunting
Just the one. I hunted with it a little more but couldn't quite get past the lack of confidence that I'd make a perfect shot every time, like where my confidence is at with compound. I would occasionally take practice shots on a hunt that felt good but would miss by say 8 or 9 inches and I didn't know why. And we don't get a ton of tags so I found myself torn between wanting to shoot any deer with traditional vs going after an older deer with compound. So I knew that when I picked it back up again, I'd do it only after I rebuilt my shot, had a strong mental game and forgiving setup, and would pre-decide which hunts and tags I'd use it for versus which ones I'd use the compound.
Would your buddy let you add some of that Velcro tape to the limbs where the string slaps them? That made my recurve significantly quieter. A little goo gone would get rid of glue residue
Maybe. There's a paint job on it too. I have read on Uuhka's site that they don't recommend adding anything to the limbs directly, but not sure of the reasoning. I will say the catwhiskers on the string did make a huge difference on the reaidual string twang.
@@DIYSportsman I gotcha. Another idea is to wrap the bow string with yarn where it makes contact with your bow. I did that along with the Velcro and it's almost silent lol. Might've made it a tiny bit slower, but well worth it imo
@@OrionARS The guy who lent me the limbs also mentioned that he'd added thin rubber pads to the limb pockets to make the connection system more like a DAS and saw benefits from it as well
@@DIYSportsman nice, I waxed my limb pockets with string wax, along with the threads of the limb bolts. It definitely helps I just have a cheap samick sage recurve, but it gets the job done lol
![HOYT SATORI ILF RECURVE HUNTING BOW- [First Impressions]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7HshUTHxou0/mqdefault.jpg)
Very cool. I have a recurve I may hunt with later in the season. It pulls 44 pounds at 29" and my arrows I have set up for it are just under 500 grains. Shots would be 20 yards and in. First I'll have my compound out to get meat in the freezer, though.
Spot/stalk with a “ stick bow” is the epitome of bow hunting. Very few things more rewarding than killing a deer this way. Or taking a cruising coyote that had no idea you were there. Thick brush after a rain or early while the grass is soft because of the night dew gives one a really good advantage. If possible, put the sun on your back if the wind is right. Even without a shot or a kill this is one of the best ways to learn REAL BOW HUNTING! Good video again.
I can't wait to see what you and Sam both get this year. I really like the videos where you both scout in together and you show us how you decide where you're gonna setup and why you chose that spot. Since I don't target any "specific" deer, I'd have to say I've learned more from your videos about finding/setting up on deer in general than anywhere else.
Nice. Really thinking of switching to this style of bow from my pure trad bow. The ability to interchange limbs with my Olympic setup alone makes sense.
Thank you for the thoughtful content. It is remarkable how much there is to shooting traditional gear, especially the ILF rigs. Good luck this fall.
Good to see your use of decent back tension and shoulder alignment in your release.
Do ever plan on doing some spot and stalk hunting for whitetails like Jared Shaffer and Zach Ferenbaugh do. To me that's next level hunting. My second question is how many years does it to get at spot and stalk hunting for whitetails with a bow?
Maybe. Most of the habitat that supports that style of hunting is further west. I definitely wouldn't pass up on the opportunity if one came up, but it's pretty rare where I'm usually hunting. I really love the scouting and ambush aspect. But mule deer would be something I'd love to try spot and stalking for sure some day. It is really impressive what those guys are able to do.
I would love to see some more videos like this.
Some real good solid information on your set up that others might be able to use. Haven't shot ILF yet, but that's my next venture. ScottinPa.
Enjoyed the walkthrough, looking forward to more like this, and your take on hunting with a stick bow.
This is a clear, thorough explanation of your setup and WHY you chose the components you did. Thank you.
One question: You put a short front stabilizer on this bow, but how does that fit (if at all) into your conclusions about stabilizers for compounds in the excellent video you did on that subject? For example, target archers who shoot Olympic-style ILF recurves certainly use back stabilizers to great effect (which matches your own results with compounds). Did you try or consider one for your own hunting recurve? Best, Chris.
That amount of front weight allows the bow to balance neutrally at the shot. Without it, this bow tips back at the shot. So in order to gain benefit from rear weight, I'd need to add much more leverage off of the front end. Certainly long front and rear rods like they have for olympic recurve is going to be the most stable, but it also adds more to a hunting rig style that prioritizes minimalism. The way I have it set up is sort of a middle ground that's most similar to competitive barebow class. Easy to carry around in the woods but still somewhat heavy and stable when compared to wood bows.
Looks awesome! Looking forward to some footage this year!
Hi Garrett, I'm a longtime sub, a little off topic, replacement traction belts for the Lone Wolf Alpha & climbing stands aren't available anywhere, I was hoping there's an industrial belt somewhere that fits, or, if some company will manufacture them again. Sorry, I don't expect you to know, just taking a chance you may know something, since you're in touch with the hunting industry & know your stuff.
So I know you can definitely buy traction belts from industrial suppliers like McMaster Carr or similar that specify dimensions on the belt. What I'm not as familiar with is the design of their original belts and any reinforcements to know if they're 1:1 or not
Ive got a set of long gobis on a 19" satori with a springy rest. I shoot the heck out of it, way better than wood bows ive used in the past. Day Six 350s with 250 up front and they are super fast for 48# pound limbs
That sounds like a solid setup
How difficult is it to go back and forth between compound and trade? I guess a lot of fundamentals are the same.
It's fairly easy if you have a process in place. I found trying to go back and forth between compound and instinctive traditional is tough, but following a repeatable shot process like NTS or similar where you can draw to load, lock in your alignment (like hitting draw stops) then mentally switch to aiming and expanding through the release is very similar to compound.
Ah yes. A fellow stringwalker bowhunter. We also shoot the same GPP at 11.7
I always get weird looks at the range by hooking the string almost 2" below the arrow. I also chose a brighter coloured serving material to mark my fixed crawl which makes it easier to see in low light.
A fixed crawl was a gamechanger for me. Higher anchors just weren't comfortable at all but low anchors that were comfortable made gap shooting impossible.
Sorry perhaps a very dumb question, but are you using plastic veins or are they feathers and just oddly shaped?
I was always taught that recurve bows should be shooting feathers only, but clearly your arrow flight seems lazer beam straight. Is it due to the use of rest that allows you to do so?
Thanks in advance for info!
I am shooting an elevated rest which helps. With a good tune, the back end of the arrow flexes out away from the rest and doesn't really make contact with the rest wire or the shelf. Now, the vanes I'm using are very thin, called Trad Vanes from AAE. They are designed to have a ton of flex and be a little more forgiving, even shooting directly off of a shelf.
@@DIYSportsman Thank you so much for the reply! So, in your opinion, if I do not use a rest and shoot of a hair shelf, should I use feathers? If I have a rest but should feathers, is that a detriment? And finally, would using a compound "twin pronged" rest be an ok idea on a recurve (basically the kinds of rests that do not totally enclose the arrow, like a whisker biscuit rest)? Presently I a bow set w wire rest and with hair shelf and I should feathers of both.
Thanks again!
@hexadecimal delirium You can use feathers with anything. Their only downsides are that they don't perform well when soaking wet and aren't as durable. When hunting they can make noise brushing against things too. But they are the most forgiving if there is any contact. In target archery many shooters might choose big feathers for indoor shooting and small vanes for outdoor shooting, and they are almost always using an elevated rest and plunger. For hunting, if you were going to try vanes with the hair rest, I'd try the trad vanes and compare against feathers. The vanes will be a little quieter, more durable, and better in rain. But the feathers will likely be easier to shoot well right off the bat, and you can adjust their length or height to get something that performs best overall for steering broadheads and not fishtailing too bad in crosswinds.
@hexadecimal delirium For drop away rests, there are actually recurve specific drop aways like the Zniper or Free flyte. They have some followers in target archery but can be more finicky to set up. I probably wouldn't use one for hunting. One thing to remember with finger release is that your arrow is flexing significantly side to side, which could cause issues with compound style rests.
@@DIYSportsman I guess the rest i was thinking of called "spot hogg infinity?" or its much MUCH cheaper clones on amazon. They look like a fork that is spring loaded that allows the arrow to push on it. But there is no "release" like drop away rest. it is all self contained.
Either way, definitely thank you for all the info! I'll keep the vein suggestion in mind. I actually have some uncut bloodsport arrows i bought to de-vein, cut and turn into hunting arrows (because they fit the spine and price i was looking for), but maybe I'll keep few veins on and experiment! Thanks again man!
Are you mostly hunt northern mn, love bowhunting 341
A little of everything. Mostly central because it's close to home, but I've hunted a fair bit past Duluth and and in the SE, especially for turkeys.
Nice. I picked up a wf19 at the beginning of this season and shoot the heck out of it, likely because of the mass. I always just buy the cheap tradtech limbs and they’re great, always straight. I love the ilf stuff but I do find myself missing just a one piece fiberglass longbow (which I have multiple that I love). You start looking at all the things on an ilf and I always think to myself “man that’s a lot of stuff that can come loose”.
What nock point did you end up at with your fixed crawl?
The bottom of my top nock set is right at 9/16"
@@DIYSportsman I’ll have to try a bit of negative tiller. I never can get a good bareshaft with a fixed crawl
How did you get the mini max to work with trad vanes? I tried with 3” trad vanes On Black Eagle Carnivores, the rear 3/4”would not adhere. My cousin had similar problems with 5mm Easton arrows and his mini max jig. He ended up buying a Bitzenburger to get his working
Actually now that you mention it there were a number of vanes where I had to manually stick the rear 1/2" or on after removal from the jig. Maybe lining that portion of the jig with foil would help. After doing a bunch of broadhead shooting I'm testing out moving to 4x 3" feathers at 5/8" tall just for the extra forgiveness of a bad release.
good luck this season Garrett, hope you kill a big 'un with that trad bow
Thanks Dave!
Good job
Looks a lot like a WF riser.
Yea they both have the heavy mass at the limb pocket design. I believe I read that the backwoods has more deflex than the wf-19 but don't quote me on that.
Garrett....YOU KNOW you are not going to hunt with this...so why post this? LOL
I already committed to filling my in state tag with a single string bow so I'm going to stick to that but will still use my compound for my out of state hunts. I don't have enough confidence with traditional to take it on a four day hunt or pull off the small handful of opportunities a year on older deer I've been following.
nice, best of luck out there. 5 days out for bear and 20 for deer over here, cant wait
NOtHING more rewarding than traditional! Need muffs( beaver fur)bow is too plastic sounding. I want a home carved stick bow out of you next season.
Awesome setup and a very informative video! Good luck with your next hunting 🦌🏹
I remember you kid. Haven't seen you in a video in awhile
I got my first custom hybrid boy this year. It shoots 10x better than all of my other recurves. It's beautiful. The guy that makes it knows what he's doing....oh and....it only cost $600. If your interested hit me up. I can give you his contact info.
Thanks for the run down. I had not thought about a wrist sling for my Satori. Hope all is well for you and Sam. Definitely miss seeing yall hunt. Have a good season!
Are you in Mn
Great video. Seems to be the only one of its kind for modern barebow hunting setups. Thank you
If you cant the bow a little you might haver better vision of the target.
I've noticed that to especially be the case on shorter bows with small sight window cutouts 👍
How did you install your cat whiskers?
I opened up the string and slid some cat whiskers in between the strands. Then I restrung the bow and locked them in place with serving material
Good luck 👍
Awesome setup! Glad you have confidence in it. My 1 piece hybrid longbow last season was extremely accurate but the noise I had from it had very negative effects on deer on the shot. But I was hunting pressured deer. Gl this season.
I also shoot left handed. After a 25 year hiatus, I'm going to get back into archery. I've have a lot of work to do to get my muscle tone, and muscle memory back. I'm looking forward to it.
Nice looking arrow. They look like darts when you're shooting.
Awesome video… have you killed a deer yet with a trad bow? I know I seen you shoot at a doe in an old video and I was bummed after that that you picked the compound back up. I thought you had given up on the trad hunting
Just the one. I hunted with it a little more but couldn't quite get past the lack of confidence that I'd make a perfect shot every time, like where my confidence is at with compound. I would occasionally take practice shots on a hunt that felt good but would miss by say 8 or 9 inches and I didn't know why. And we don't get a ton of tags so I found myself torn between wanting to shoot any deer with traditional vs going after an older deer with compound. So I knew that when I picked it back up again, I'd do it only after I rebuilt my shot, had a strong mental game and forgiving setup, and would pre-decide which hunts and tags I'd use it for versus which ones I'd use the compound.
That’s awesome I hope you smoke a giant!
Would your buddy let you add some of that Velcro tape to the limbs where the string slaps them? That made my recurve significantly quieter. A little goo gone would get rid of glue residue
Maybe. There's a paint job on it too. I have read on Uuhka's site that they don't recommend adding anything to the limbs directly, but not sure of the reasoning. I will say the catwhiskers on the string did make a huge difference on the reaidual string twang.
@@DIYSportsman I gotcha. Another idea is to wrap the bow string with yarn where it makes contact with your bow. I did that along with the Velcro and it's almost silent lol. Might've made it a tiny bit slower, but well worth it imo
@@OrionARS The guy who lent me the limbs also mentioned that he'd added thin rubber pads to the limb pockets to make the connection system more like a DAS and saw benefits from it as well
@@DIYSportsman nice, I waxed my limb pockets with string wax, along with the threads of the limb bolts. It definitely helps
I just have a cheap samick sage recurve, but it gets the job done lol