1969 Charger 500 Front Suspension Installed - Back on Wheels!
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Nick's Garage Gear Shop
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Nick has only had the Charger 500 back in his shop for a little while now, but he isn't wasting any time getting the restoration moving forward. This week, he wants to get the car back on four wheels. Let's watch!
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Good morning Nick, The 500 on all 4 wheels again, I can't wait.
Things are really starting to take shape. Thanks for joining us again, sir.
good morning eugene it's been cold 🥶 hear in Ontario-24 yesterday morning today-9 and loads of snow could I send some your way 😀😄😁👍🇨🇦
@@danohstoolbox who that really sucks.. it was 70 something here in TX.. I know Eugene is jonesing REAL bad to cruise.. looks great, Eugene
@@danohstoolbox Good morning, danoh, I appreciate the offer of some snow and cold but y'all can keep it in Ontario, lol.
@@danohstoolbox I already had offered to send him one Canadian Snowman that he would have to assemble himself.
Eugene is so lucky he has the right people restoring his beauty !
Eugene, when I was stationed at George AFB California I bought a 1972 Mr. Norm’s Dodge Demon GSS from an airman on base. I grew up drag racing Mopars with my father. Fond memories. Enjoy your Charger!
One thing to remember with many cars is that suspension bolts needs to be tightened at curb weight (wheels on ground and weight of car on the suspension) to prevent the bushings from being wound up and damaged.
The exception is the torsion bars which are torqued with the weight off the suspension.
Looks impeccable, Robert is a good partner to help out.He's quiet and knows his stuff.
I have to suspend my disbelief that a car can be so beautiful in yellow! Great job Nick, George did a great job on the video
Thanks! 👍 Wait until we get this color out in the sun!
Yellow is mellow😉
@@NicksGarage I bet you that thing will look stellar in the sun
One of the biggest draw backs to these old drim brake Chryslers is like my friends '69 Roadrunner, even with new hydraulics and all new parts the
brakes would overheat and fade out at anything over about 55-60mph and the pedal got hard as a rock. We thought something was wrong so we rebuilt the entire system including a new proportioning valve, but they faded at speed no matter what with the old taxi cab brakes. we were told by local brake shops the only fix was to change the system over to the factory disc setup. 70% of the braking is done at speed and they are known to fade on many designs. Nick was smart to change out his Challengers front brakes for the disc setup, huge improvement.
Have two full size cars. One with drums, other discs. Both work well. Drums were used in racing. If your not racing it’s not a problem. Eugene lives in Texas. Flat. Just has to be aware if he drives to Colorado.
I’m pushing close to 500 hp in my 67 Camaro rs,still have drums,like you said,unless you’re racing it’s no problem.
You need some badass racing shoes and they work much better, There are places online to order from
@@jpeknowbody3649 The brake shoes, are from Porterfield Brakes, and they are a racing RD-4 compound on both the front and rear. I never had any braking issues in the past, and I don't anticipate any issues with these new modern compound brake shoes.
@@eugenecastles7475 yep, mine work amazing.I'll have did up some receipts and see where I got mine for my 1966 stang
Me, retired in Thailand watching a guy in Montreal fix the car of a guy from Texas...........what a world we live in....
Is that cool or what.
Your the first person I've ever seen install a cotter pin correctly everyone on TV and videos bend both sides and that makes a weaker pin. Thanks for your great work.
The only thing making it a weaker pin is cutting one side off. One pin should be bent over the top, the other bent down the side of the nut. Cutting one side off leaves you with only 1 left.
Hey Nick, magnificent obsession, I am 77 and I have never seen such meticulous attention to detail. You have my humble admiration and I am rapidly becoming a fan of early MOPAR muscle.
I still have the Mopar upper ball-joint socket that I purchased way back in the early 70s. I look at it every so often and enjoy the memories of working on my 68 Roadrunner and my brother’s 69 Roadrunner. Both vehicles are long gone now, but the great memories are so vivid it seems like yesterday.
I'm so ready to see that 500 in the sunshine Nick.
The spring on the drum is there to stop the drum from resonating and making noise, not for cooling.
It does both. It does help cool and help eliminate resonant noise. Any additional surface area on the drum, such as the spring, adds to radiational cooling. It's like adding additional fins to a radiator core to deflect more heat. Same thermodynamic principle.
Bill, did engineers put on spring for noise or heat?
That's what I always thought, too. Dampening the ringing also helped prevent cracking over time. Using it as a heat sink is very interesting, though. When I rebuilt the front end on my old Galaxie years ago, I got lucky when I got my reman front drums from the local parts house, they were 11" Chrysler drums with the pentastar logo and the spring. No squeal!
@@dukeallen432 . Good question. Need to call my contact in Detroit for the answer. Retired Chrysler Engineer.
Wow. Drum brakes. Stopping is optional. Nick, your going to have to install an automatic trunk opener, so that Eugene will be able to eject an anchor from trunk. . .
Not true
Just a great video on front end rebuilding Nick does such a great job on not only showing how everything goes together but how it all works. Right down to the fact that the large spring on the drum acts as a heat sink. Thank you Nick for teaching me something I didn't know before.
The cooling effect would be negligible. It's there for noise reduction, same as when refacing brakes.
@@jjmac3561 . Good to know. Thank you for the info on the spring.
Isn’t the final tightening of the nuts meant to be when the car is on the ground, so you don’t twist on the bushes?
Yep.
Hi Nick! I have to say that I don't like yellow, but this masterpiece somehow totally pulls it off. WOW what a beauty!!
Good morning Nick and crew from mid Tn. I remember laying on my back in the garage installing the front end on my 69 Charger. Watching y'all brings back some good memories, thank you.
Thanks for sharing
I remember decades ago in our stubborn youth we had to change those upper ball joints but the guy who owned the car would not buy the special socket - so believe it or not wrong as it undoubtedly was we used a very large pipe wrench to unscrew those upper ball joints and re-install them. We were told it could not be done any way except for with the special socket - but we got it done and got the new ball joints screwed all the way back in tight, though they were sporting a few tooth marks from the massive pipe wrench we used. He drove that car for years and never had any problems with it, but it was NOT the right way to do it, us stubborn teenagers did it anyway-lol.
Thanks for sharing memories of the good ol' days.
Fantastic . Personally i don`t torque the pivot nut until the car sits on the ground adjusted to rideheight , otherwise the rubber in the bushing gets twisted.
It`s such a beautiful car , don`t know if I`d dare drive it in the street , one wold have to of course , but anyway .
Some of the best content on UA-cam. Can’t wait for the next installment on this dream build.
As we all watch this, maybe we should stop and think of all the car engineers who have help make all cars and trucks a miracle really. Think of all the engineering that had to go in the front suspension of this car. Parts had to be designed and built, proper tools to work on it, tools that have to be manufactured, and schools for car mechanics. Be it this car or any car, the amount of work and skill required to make cars is fantastic. Thank goodness for all the highly intelligent engineers and mechanics over the last hundred or so years that provided for us the good life we have today. I mean we just merely turn a key and drive to a local McDonalds. We take so much for granted, so it never hurts for us to expand our minds just a little, from time to time. At any rate, like everyone else, I love to see when this car is completed. Nick, thanks for showing.
I can`t wait til Friday night to see this car on all fours away from the lift!!
Great to see it on the ground and 4 wheels Nick. 👍
Sure is!
Nick really is the DODGE Farther his Kowalski and this are amazing rebuilds
Thanks for that.
Great job Nick! moving right along with it.
No time to waste!
Nick's Garage relieving Monday tension Today Nick and Robert are building Eugenes front suspension and waow to remember where everything goes you need some memory retention Drum brakes on the front because keeping it original is Eugenes intention With modern uprated shoes The stopping distance shouldn't give him the blues Nick's Garage is fast off the blocks later on they'll be installing the torsion bar and the shocks This Charger 500 truly rocks and there'll be no rattles or knocks All torqued down to factory spec Nick's Garage demands respect because done properly this is what you can get I used to watch the Dukes of Hazzard Chargers they killed plenty which is very annoying for me now because I have Charger envy That Coca Cola bottle shape is always gonna look great make no mistake!
Thank you Roberto, you have an amazing way with words, and I always look forward to your magical Rhymes. All the best to you and your family.
@@eugenecastles7475 Blessings to you and your family too Writing a rhyme in exchange for watching quality content is the least I can do I shout it from every roof top At Nick's Garage the fun don't stop!
That is one car getting more beautiful each day Mr Nick
Once again as always a beautiful job, nothing like seeing fully restored and new parts going on a fully restored classsic. Well done Nick and crew.
What joy to work on such a beautiful clean vehicle. Looking great,well done everyone
Nick, you need to explain to the "youngins" why the long shoe goes to the rear on drums. Looking good Eugene! Great job all around.
That rear stripe shot at the opening of this video is gorgeous. Looks perfect. Again, kudos to Eugene for his commitment to restore this historical car. Have a great week everyone.
Oh yea, it was Don!
Yes. Black and yellow are a great combo. 500 script nice as well.
@@dukeallen432 👍 Oh yea!
I love the old Mopar suspension, they really handle so well if they have good alignment. I've rebuilt mine 3 times in 1 million and 30,0,0,0 k's of hard driving. Biggest problem in Australia is the wheel alignment clowns just want your money and have no idea what theyre doing. Beautiful work you guys did. Will last forever.
Another awesome video from Nicks garage! Zero drama…. Nice camera work George as usual! Gene it’s edging closer and closer to it being done and ready for your to get back behind the wheel.
Hi Tim, hope everything is good in BC. The build is really getting exciting now that 500 is getting closer to the finish line. I'm looking forward to getting behind the wheel, and going for a nice cruise.
I received a package from you ,Tim , today. Will open on next mail time. Thank you.
A foot of fresh snow,and Nicks Garage,thanks for the video,it’s a great excuse to stay inside and not have to shovel.
Knowledge, experience, the right tools, parts and the Will to apply all this on a customer's vehicle as if it was their own....Rare! What a pleasure!
Hmmmmm, read some of the comments here regarding tightening the suspension bolts... They are right.
So nice seeing the car come back together with all cleaned up and/or new parts. It's looking great! Love some of the heavier rockin' guitar background music George.
Eugene is a very lucky man. Love that 500.
Nick is such a patient man and selects good people to work WITH him, and we can all see the results of a fine-tuned man at work with plenty of years' experience... How bout a nice PLUG for the person or persons providing the great music that keeps you watching the boys work, GOOD stuff...
Awesome build gentlemen, 100 point car for sure. By the way, George plays great bumper music...+
I know this is a OEM restoration, but if it's going to be driven, the owner should have had the lower control arm stiffening plates welded into the lower control arms. It really does make a difference.
Morning all. Two feet of snow here in Southern Ont. Perfect day for another fantastic show. Thanks guys.
Another very interesting episode of Nick's Garage and Congratulations to Eugene on his "new" Charger 500!
whats real special that this video will always be here for reference on a spectacular build restoration
Mr Rogers move over! Mr. Mopar is in!!!! Awesome stuff Nick and George great camera production work!!! Such a pleasure to view and learn!!!!/Thank you!!
Looking great! Did I miss you reinstalling the rt header? Please show us the final torsion bar adjustment when you get to that step.
Didnt see u put the foam gasket between the spindle and the backing plate.
Wish I had them. There were some cars I removed the front spindles and there was no foam gaskets.
Tons of work, tons of research, tons of pressure. Congrats Nick's garage it's coming along!
Nick I laugh that you describe the breakdown of the suspension because as a 65 year old Greek myself I tore down and replaced so much of that in the shops,I have to give you credit trying to educate the rack and pinion generation on how we Baby Boomers worked on and drove those gems,68 nova,69, nova,65 ford galaxy,71 plymouth duster,The list goes on I worked wrecking yard for a time,These things flowed through my fingers like water,Ah for the old days. Beautiful vehicle,And you are the master of ceremonies as it should be.
Nothing like the old days. Old school indeed.
Tanks use torsion bars, Volkswagens used to use torsion tubes, so a lot of different types of vehicles have used the venerable torsion bar and to great effect also. I prefer the torsion bar system myself.
I like the oversized oil pan. I always changed the stock 4 quart pan on my 440s to the 6 quart stock hemi pan.
Beautiful car, and when I watch Nick work on these legendary classics, I see me in so many ways, if only I still owned my shop. I've still got the love for them I had 40-years ago...but it's funny, when I was 16, I wanted 'speed', 'power'...and I remember even 'cutting' belts off, to get the maximum possible power out of those engines...now, in my old age, I'd go out of my way to find 'factory A/C bodies' to restore...because, well, rolling the windows down just isn't enough A/C anymore...
It’s soooo nice to work on a car that’s as clean as new- only had the opportunity once- so far
Thank you Nick for finishing another charger. This car is a beautiful car thank you for all your hard work this beast will be enjoyed forever!!!!!!😀🇺🇲🤩😍🥰🙃
I love watching the basics go back together. Interesting that the owner wanted to keep the drum brakes. I also go against the trend and use drum brakes on my boat trailer. I learned a few tricks to keep them from seizing up in salt water. Here in salt water unless you buy the most expensive stainless brake rotors the discs don't last either. I use zinc plated drums and galvanized backing plates, and figured out a way to make the wheel cylinders more water resistant.
With the ones on the Charger, lubing the threads on the self adjuster helps, because after time and moisture in the air even they sometimes freeze up and won't self adjust. I recall having this happen with our disc front/drum rear cars back in the 70s and 80s, often you'd have to adjust it manually to get it right.
Good morning Nick and crew from snowy central Pennsylvania. Just picked up my 2022 Ram Rebel Hemi ! I think I'm going to go out and play in the snow today! Bill from Linglestown Pennsylvania.
Enjoy it, Bill! Congratulations.
The engine has been modified to go a lot faster but the brakes are stock not safe not a good idea!
There is nothing wrong with drum brakes, especially the 11 inch police brakes. The 500 has racing compound RD-4 brake shoes front and rear.
That car is so incredible , thanks to Eugene for bringing it to Nicks Garage and thanks to Nick and his team for rebuilding this awesome machine.!
Man she’s really coming together now!
can't wait to see the back wheels building up torque in slow motion just as they start to smoke the opening bars of drivers seat from sniff and the tears playing in the background
that would be a great video 👍🇨🇦
Right on.. wish we could use real copyright music in all the videos.
@@NicksGarage ya it is a shame you can't
Yes Robert you are absolutely correct about heat on drums. After a couple of hard pulls you had to stop and let the drums cool down! Nick you have done a great video again! Thank you
I love it, love it! Good job to all and keep it up!
Meticulous work area, prep and installation. Cannot believe how clean that car is. Good job.
A tip on the steering and alignment, if you will, and don't already know. That gearbox should have been adjusted on the bench with an over-center torque increase. This causes a bit of binding to the sector shaft as it goes over center: This is a good thing.
Now when the alignment is satisfactory (there should be a specification for less caster on the left, which would make it pull slightly to the left on a flat road) finishing off with toe, you should make your tie rod sleeve clamps all point down before you lock them down: Then test drive.
The object now is to get the cars steering wheel to be just about 1/2 degree to the right when going straight ahead so that when the car is on a straightaway on the flat interstate, the gearbox is bumping up against that little bit of binding that was dialed into the gearbox with that over-center torque increase.
The specification for less caster on the left is to compensate for crowned roads, and when the gearbox is correctly adjusted as I showed, that little bit won't cause the car to pull to the left on a flat road, *_as long as the steering wheel is properly adjusted._* This is where aligning the tie rod sleeve clamps come in handy. As long as the four clamps are all aligned together, you can fine tune the position of your steering wheel by simply turning them both the same amount in the same direction and not change the toe-in. *No need to put it back on the alignment rack!*
One last thing about those sleeve clamps. On some cars the wind going under the car can hit the clamps and cause them to whistle. This can happen no matter what direction they are in so when you make your test drive pay attention and listen for that whistle. If it doesn't and you don't have to adjust the tie-rods, you're good to go. If you have to adjust them, listen for the whistle after you do and act accordingly.
BTW, still beating myself up about the "missing part on the Hemi", the choke heater tube from the exhaust manifold to the carb. I should have gotten that one.
I remember renting 1977 Dodge Polara Station Wagon for a vacation trip to Florida from Ottawa, ON. (95% Interstate)There was just a bit of play in the front end, but there was pull to either side. So the car was continually “hunting”. . . and required constant attention to keep it pointed in the right direction. Perhaps (it just occurred to me now) I should have adjusted the front tire pressures so that it might have had a slight preference for one side or the other.
@@dewiz9596 loose front spindle bearings caused that “hunting” you describe on my old police special.
@@dewiz9596 As a one-time front end specialist, that sounds a lot like an improper front end alignment to me. Too often alignment techs would ignore that "less on the left" specification when the real problem was in the gearbox, which was worn and had no "bind" in the center and was "soft" or loose altogether. They couldn't get it to not pull to the left on a flat road so they just set caster to even on both sides, which would give you exactly what you're describing: an alignment that required constant attention on the interstate where the road is flat. "Hunting" was the common customer complaint for that condition, and as I said, the cause for it was the gearbox, NOT the alignment. In that case the less caster on the left spec would have gotten rid of that hunting, but it would drift to the left if you let go of the steering wheel.
Thankfully, the rack-and-pinion did away with all of that. You can set a tiny bit less on the left (.2 to .3 less) and it won't "pull" on the freeway (it will drift left if you let go of the steering wheel) or you can set caster even and it won't "hunt".
Changer 500 is a unique beast slowly being unleashed. Great episode Nick. Keep more episodes coming on Eugenes Charger.😃👍❤️
You should not loosen the castle nut to line up with the hole once the torque value is reach. Continue to advance the nut to the next castle nut slot to line up with the hole even if the torque limit is reached intially.
That is correct, thank you.
I know in 1969 you could get front disc brakes my friend has a 1969 Charger R/T and his has factory front disc brakes.
When you are running drums, you have to brake with your head as much as you do with your foot.
Nick's right, Porsche 911 models used torsion bars until the late 80s. Then came the 964 model with coil springs.
Missed watching you earlier this morning Nick, but there's no better way than to watch you and Robert working on Eugene's '69 Dodge Charger 500 and explaining what you two are doing each and every step on a cold Monday evening!
Falling in love with color.
Very cool! Glad to see this coming together. Eugene Castles is well-pleased so far.
I recall my 1st car, a '69 Dodge Charger R/T w/track pack suspension, Dana 60 rear end, hemi 4-speed and 440 engine, had power steering but also came with manual 11" drum brakes. That car was good for one panic stop from warp speed, and throw an anchor out after that.
Thank you for great video content!
Eugene you must be feeling real happy about now as the 500 comes together given both Robert & Nick are doing a top job putting things together thus explaining as they go which will help with there restoration. George you filming once again is top notch. Stay safe & well all.
Hey Blinkie, I'm very happy the way the 500 is coming along. Nick and Robert nailed the front suspension, and George has some amazing skills behind the camera. I really enjoyed this video.
I'm so glad cause I want that 500 given how well it's coming along Eugene but I can only dream cause it's yours unless one comes my way. Take care bro and hey cant wait until it's finished either.
Dr. Nick, felt like I was back in shop class, thanks for the explanation of all the front end parts, where they go, and what they do, great video work George, cheers.
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching, Eric.
Some international pickups used a torsion bar on the upper control arm when they used AMC engines
It was good to see that Nick is done fighting with headers, at least on the charger 500. I hope? 😉
Nick - when you torque down a bolt at 23:03 - you should ALWAYS pull the wrench TOWARDS YOU instead of pushing it away from you - that way if it SLIPS you will not going "flying" into the ether unknown OUT OF CONTROL - all that can happen if you PULL it towards you is that you pull the wrench inward towards your body UNDER CONTROL - saves hand knuckles and body flesh being bruised and bloodied !
Great video Nick and Krew . It is really good seeing 👀 " The Yellow Time Machine " come to life . Should be sitting on all rubber now. Just a beautiful survivor from days long ago ...Can't wait till she's move on her own power ...
good morning nick and team grandson asked were the springs go so i explained how it works i guess a modern car would have strut instead great show have a great week
Good morning guys! Grandson is asking smart questions. Well done. Thanks for watching together.
Good morning Nick and Crew, wow what a difference so far. Been watching since that car arrived at Nicks Garage.
I always learn a lot watching your videos. Thank you I find it interesting and appreciate it.
Actually, the 3 differences between the disc and drum brakes are as follows: 1)drum brakes are lighter, 2)drum brakes are heat sensitive compared to disc brakes, and 3) drum brakes do not tolerate water at all. Drum brakes can work as well as any disc brake otherwise unless it is antilock which is very difficult to do on drum brakes. I always wanted to have disc brakes on my '68 Fury 3 as it could easily overdrive the front brakes otherwise because of heat. I took the roll bar off the front as it actually handled better without it. This was also mentioned in an article about the '68 Fury in a magazine article. The only car I had that handled better by taking a handling aid off LOL Same article also mentioned that the disc brake option was available and should be taken for the Fury.
And of course, the video camera work and graphics makes your show interesting too!
Nick .... I've encountered a 3 point "Castle Nut" on only the Steering Components from the Drag Link to the Tie Rod Ends (circa 1970-73)
I love the small details you do to make the Charger correct, and safe. I’ve rarely seen people install a cotter pin correctly as you showed. Bending both ends of the pin will weaken the cotter pin more then correctly cutting one end off. It’s gonna be an amazing car when fully assembled.
Good Afternoon Nick and everyone else watching the best automotive show around. Nick we are so enjoying watching the assembly of this awesome Charger. Please let there be another restoration after this one. Regards and best wishes from South Africa.
the thought that Chrysler raced those cars on super speedways on that suspension at over 150mph is mind boggling..tho at the time that was very much state of the art in suspension technology..i wonder what Richard Pettys shop did to make their cars run so fast and stable at high speeds....I wasnt a fan of the yellow, but now its kind of grown on me..Eugene has a very rare car indeed..
I just wanted to change a few ball joints but with this great tutorial, I'm finally going to redo the whole front suspension!
The correct way to do it.
Looks like an automotive operating room: a certain flow and precision and mature competencies on display!
Happy New year Nick. My girlfriend, Ashly and I have enjoyed watching the 500 go together, she thinks its a beautiful car, as do I. Cheers from Calgary.
Nick, the spring around the drum has nothing to do with cooling it. It's there to keep the drum from oscillating and giving a squealing sound from the brakes.
Yes, I was going to talk about the spring around the drum too! It’s also to help prevent vibration during braking.
EDIT: Loved the video Nick! Keep up the great work! Wish I was the guy there helping you. MOPAR OR NO CAR!
That small hole on the fender for the badge needs its badge 🙂
Soon it will be there.
I learned why this car didn't have coil over suspension with the explanation about how the torsion bar works. Thanks for the educational video!
Awesome job, Nick! Love to see you all reinstalling back the car step by step in a very professional en high quality manner...Kind regards again from Belgium.
Nick the Charger 500 has become my favourite very cool
Perfect day to be snowed in!! ❄️😁
Stay warm, Zach.
Bon Matin/Good Morning, I am late. Nice little lesson on how to do the front end.
Toronto is so snowed in right now it is funny, half the people here still believe in "all season" tires.
Nick you’re a wealth knowledge I’ve been working on Mopar’s my entire adult life and at 45 years old I still learn something new every time I watch one of your videos.
good mechanic & a teacher.thanks for teaching.
Great explanation on the front end assembly! One thing I noticed was the right front brake line being so close to the header! On the GTX & Roadrunners, the brake line that runs behind the engine and goes to the right front wheel stays away from that area and exits the engine compartment right through the masticated rubber shield for adjusting the rear alignment cam. Changing that line probably wouldn't be correct but it would keep the header heat away from the fluid. Thanks again for a great video!
There you go…there you have it! Great video!