Propagate fig trees with refrigerated dormant cuttings, using coco coir. This method produces strong roots and healthy plants and has a high percentage of success. If you like my work, LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, SHARE the Video and leave a COMMENT, to help me make more Check the channel for more videos on rooting, grafting and pruning of fruit trees.
I grow pomegranates here in SW Okla, and have tried both a simple glass of water to rooting in Coco Coir, both methods work! Still there will be a small percentage of failures with both. Your are the high priest of youtube in my opinion! Thanks for making videos! Now, if I could just improve my grafting skills!
I am living in India. Here the weather is very hot in summer - it goes up to 44°with extreme dry condition. Hence, like to know can this method be used for any other cuttings of trees. Appreciate your reply and also many more videos.
Here is an easier way. The established tree growing in the ground. I bend over a number of branches so they are touching the soil, place a shovel of soils on it. Place a brick on each to keep it in place. Next year I cut it from the mother plant and dig up the big root ball.
Hi, George. Layering and Air Layering are very good ways of propagating our trees and I have several videos covering this last method. A video on layering on the ground, as you suggest, is also in the pipeline - I have several branches already buried and will try to document the process. One of the old videos even mentions layering briefly, check min. 8.16 of this video - ua-cam.com/video/1OvVjHC2JV0/v-deo.html . However, this is a good option if we own the tree or its near by. Its just not possible to do when we buy cuttings from other sources or receive them from friends😊. Rooting is the only option in this case. Thanks for the comment and the tip.
@@nroytv And coco coir is an incomplete growing medium that can kill plants with nitrogen toxicity if processed incorrectly. Just because a method isn't ideal for your specific situation doesn't make it less valuable or easy for everyone else, Einstein... Some people, smh
That's such a neat method! I've always rooted fig cuttings in water & it works pretty well but the transplantation shock when I pot them up regularly kills a good third. (Doesn't matter for these bc I'm just propagating our one variety of fig in case of harsh winter frosts taking out the motherplants or to give them to friends but your method looks even more hands-off and more successful so I'll try that next winter, thank you!)
You're quite right. The main problem with pre-rooting (independently of the rooting medium) is the transplant shock that kills many of the cuttings. This method removes much of that problem, as it allows for a more developed plant that transplants very well to the potting medium.
Great videos thank you! I get pretty good success with this technique. The bigger problem is that a few weeks to a few months after potting up in 1 gallon pots, many stall and die. I do not think I am overwatering. It is almost always fungus gnat larvae. How to solve this issue?
thank you for your videos and I subscribed too (I've been watching them repeatedly)... I've tried several ways of rooting fig cuttings and they all fail, but finally I followed your method: cococoir and parafilm wax. My question is.. can you give fertilizer to the rooted cuttings with small leaves developing? at what strength would you recommend? I'm growing them indoors since our weather is getting cold now. Thank you!
Sorry for the late reply, Jennifer. Yes, you can give liquid fertilizer (very diluted - at least half the normal concentration) to growing cuttings with leaves, when you water them. Good luck with your cuttings.
I didn't warp up fig cuttings before propagation. Right after a couple of days of being cut off from the tree, my fig cuttings often grew new leaves, and those leaves soon rotted away as they grew more roots. I didn't put them in the refrigerator.
Brilliant as usual can you suggest some good books on propagation which you might have. Also what's your opinion on applying epsomsalts & water to newly transplanted plants to minimize transplant shock.
@7:05 when you talk about applying a gel based product and allowing it to dry a bit before placing into the medium, does that go for aloe vera gel as well? thank you for your time
Hi Thank you very much for all videos tip knowledge and importantly the time and effort you put in. Very much grateful! If I might ask (I am assuming you're based in Spain) from where do you procure your Parafilm and the rooting powder/gel, I've just moved to France from the UK and just can't seem to find either! Thank you once again!
Is it possible to root a cutting from a white oak tree? I have tried two times and it hasn't rooted. I took 6 inch long young growth segment, made a fresh cut on the bottom again, put rooting powder on the cut side, put into starter mix soil.. and nothing. This tree is over 300 years old and I want a clone of it instead of from acorn
I just find your channel and want to ask if you have done a video about grafting mulberry tree's? we have some and we found it very difficult to graft.
When you shave the stem cuttings do you lightly shave them or do you shave them down to the cambium layer (white layer)? Also I've noticed you just shave off some of the layer not completely around the circumference of the stem can you explain why thanks. I really thank you for explaining why it's better to root cuttings horizontally as opposed to vertically no one has ever been able to explain this to me before.
Hi. I only shave lightly. Usually, until I see green or the beginning of the white layer. I don't want to remove the cambium layer were the undifferentiated cells are. Just expose them, at the sides of the node. That's also the reason why I don't scrape all around. I don't want to remove meristematic cells that tend to concentrate in the node areas. As I have said in the video, rooting horizontally is preferable as it exposes a large area, with several nodes, to the same level of humidity, so less problems with bottom rot (very common when rooting vertically, as the bottom of the cutting is exposed, inevitably, to a higher level of humidity, while the upper part, near the top soil, is much drier). In the traditional method of rooting fig trees, a branch of about 1 meter was cut and buried in a shallow trench, almost horizontally, leaving only the tip above the ground. Before covering it with dirt, the branch was damaged in several places. The injuries promote the development of callus and the roots will grow from the nodes and from the damaged areas.
@@JSacadura wow your knowledge is incredible. You should write a book or produce a CD documenting all this knowledge on plants propagation techniques plant nutrition & their care.
Cant find a video (of yours) on fertilizing your orchards. But i notice you use a centralized irrigation system. I have a very similar albeit smaller orchard with a irrigation system. The though of pulling back all the mulch and using pellet fertilizers is too much. So i'd like to dissolve the pellets and run the liquid through my irrigation lines. 1) have you ever done this? Any pro/cons you can offer. 2) how did you figure out watering ratio and fertilizer to water ratios?
Occasionally, I fertilize with the irrigation system (fertigation). Its an effective way of adding a supplemental dosage of fertilizer that might be needed in some years. There are specific water-soluble products manufactured to be dissolved easily in the irrigation water (I wouldn't recommend trying to dissolve other types of fertilizers). Usual dosage, according to type of crop, is specified in the packages. I have a container (1000 liters) with a bypass connected to the irrigation system and an additional pump, that I use when I want to fertigate. Beware that the irrigation system will have to produce the same debit throughout all the irrigation points or the fertilizer will be unequally distributed.
For rooting, cocopeat for sure. I find it much easier to control the right humidity level. For air layering, you can also use cocopeat or a good potting mix (I usually prefer the potting mix as it doesn't dry out as much and, so, you can leave the container closed, during the whole air layering process).
Hi ! I think I missed the part where you mention the depth of the cutting placed in the coco coir.. was it around 2 nodes? Btw do you prefer grafting or rooting? I find it hard to root panache tiger fig ...
What do you use as a good well drain medium. I use a peat base compost with small gravel mixed In it . My big problem is cutting in my airing cupboard Round about 70deg . Making small leaves and then failing also when potting Up and failing .
Pre-rooting cuttings has always a few problems when potting up. The local brands of potting mixes that I use over here are not available internationally. Try to use a good quality light potting medium that doesn't absorb too much water. And try to maintain a good level of humidity by lightly spraying the cutting and the young leaves frequently, after potting up. That usually helps in the transition.
Hello I have several fruits but when they sprout leaves they are very beautiful the leaf-cutting ants take all their leaves what I can do to scare them away and they don't eat all the leaves. Thanks!!!
Beautifully explained, shall have to try. However, what is the rooting medium being used unable to understand. Shall appreciate if you could spell it out. Another thing, is it necessary to Wrap the cutting with parafilm, if the same is not available, can we go ahead without the same? Will we get the same result? Thanks for the video & expecting more from your end which will create interest.
To be able to understand my videos better, you might want to turn subtitles ON (I provide English subtitles for every video). The rooting medium is coco fiber. Wrapping in parafilm helps to preserve cutting moisture, but you can do this rooting method without it. Just be sure to maintain a good level of humidity and don't let the cutting dry out. I have used the same method with other cuttings from different types of trees and it works ( but some take much longer to root). An example - How to root plants of Lemon Verbena from cuttings - ua-cam.com/video/Y1EInIVVZdA/v-deo.html
What other fruit/ornamental trees have you had success with in this method? im not supper keen on figs, curious how i can employ this method at my place.
I have used the same method with other cuttings from different types of trees and it works. Beware that most cuttings take much longer to root than figs and some are much more delicate and finicky regarding rooting conditions like temperature and humidity. An example - How to root plants of Lemon Verbena from cuttings - ua-cam.com/video/Y1EInIVVZdA/v-deo.html
Dear sir like your video , one ask question olive tree which plant are we can use grafting / I mind difference plant / i mind same family/ i mind same family another plant please tell me sir give me your kindly please
Hi, you root fig cuttings at the beginning of april outside or inside your house window? What is the minimum night temperature for rooting? Can i use also fresh cuttings from my fig tree in april not stored ones in fridge? Do you store fig cuttings taken in october/november for later use in march and if yes how? Watering the rooting medium can lead to root and funghi, i had luck with lemon, fig, pomegranate. For some reason with Persimmon not, they need more time to root i guess, and i gave them too much water... Back to fig fruits: Why are my figs Della Signora variety dry inside? I am sure it is self ferile. They get sun, water, feriliser high in nitrogen, maybe high nitro is not okay rather high phosphoruous or potassium fertiliser is better? Do you know lila/viola portugese or Della Signora as its other name? This variety starts to make small fruits not yet visible right now, and my zone 7/b is cold till middle october, so it wont get ripe. This Della Signora variety can be a late ripening variety? Can be a 30-40days difference between early or late ripening varieties? The seller said this della signora variety makes fruits late may early june and ripens early like end of summer and september in my country. I start to water this fig della signora end of march,early april, in my zone 7/b and i see fruits earlier than leaves on it in april. According to the calendar almost 2 months before it is scheduled to make fruits. I think this early and cold innmy climate for the figs april and may to ripen, this is why they fell off dry in june. I think with early watering i bring the plant early in vegetation, and try to make fruits, but the spring is cold, this is why they are dry inside in june. The plant starts to make new fruits end of june, and this is too late to ripen the fruits till october. If i do not water maybe just from may perhaps it will not produce fruit just in end of may, and it can ripe in the warm summer weather till september? Others say not enough water, not enough sun, too much nitrogen, cold or too warm weather are also reasons for dry figs? In my case it gets sun my summer is warm, i fertilise it so can it be that early watering from march can be a reason for dry figs, cause the plant want to make fruits too early in the cold weather, and due to this fact it makes the second crop too late at beginning of august and in my zone the fall is cold too to rioen the figs? I mean cold spring and cold autumn. Should i try to get only one good crop not with dried figs fruits coming in may, ripening in august depending on variety? My Dalmatie fig makes the same thing with my early watering,but its second crop usually ripens end of august and september. Thanks for reading and answering, i like your videos, also on grafting
Whow! That's a lot of questions. Let me see if I have time to reply quickly to a couple of them... In April you can root outside, in a shaded location. Even if the temperature drops a bit at night it will only delay rooting (with constant temperature the rooting will be faster). Fresh cuttings that are starting to lignify (turn brown) will work for rooting but you will have to give ideal rooting conditions during the whole process. Check this video to see how I select and store cuttings for several months in the fridge - ua-cam.com/video/7ToL5QHIDq4/v-deo.html From your description, it seems you might have have a late fig variety that is trying to produce a few breba figs. In many varieties, that are supposed to produce only one late crop, they try to produce these early figs and they always drop off, completely dry, every year. Its more common in late varieties (that ripen in September or later). In some colder areas these varieties will be mostly unproductive, no matter what you do.
You can check Ross Raddi's videos or blog post about growing figs inground in colder climates, cutting them back to 6-12 inches every year and overwintering them in a small, long greenhouse for every row. In the description of his videos you will find a link to his spreadsheet on Google docs in which you should be able to find out wether that particular variety is early or not. 'De la signora' is also described on Moserrat Pons' website.
@@geriannroth449 I have to keep those bits of text for a longer period (4 secs isn't enough) to allow viewers the time to notice them. Thanks for the feedback.
Heavy as in dense something like coco coir or peat moss would be ideal light and fluffy. You want a lot of small air pockets in the mix ideally the mix should be 25% air by volume, and you want some moisture but not a ton, oxygen to a degree can kill a lot of bacteria obviously not all of it but bacteria really thrives in low oxygen anaerobic zones. You can easily squeeze out extra water from coco coir or peat moss without compacting them. Something like soil/dirt/compost isn't good, though you could get away with a fine bark mix as it doesn't hold much water.
Hi Bert. Im in the eastern side of the UK and for my particular local it's usually Feb/March. Basically towards the end of the dormant period just before spring. The theory is that this is when the sap is starting to rise in the tree so is ready to shoot vigorous growth.
Whatever works its fine. Everyone has to tweak the different methods to make them work. The important thing is that we are able to propagate those precious and rare varieties.
Propagate fig trees with refrigerated dormant cuttings, using coco coir. This method produces strong roots and healthy plants and has a high percentage of success.
If you like my work, LIKE, SUBSCRIBE, SHARE the Video and leave a COMMENT, to help me make more
Check the channel for more videos on rooting, grafting and pruning of fruit trees.
I use the water method, find easy straightforward and foolproof with high success rate!
Can I employ this method for rooting apple 🍎 cuttings?
@@user-rr9gh5ko1c Is there a video for that?
I grow pomegranates here in SW Okla, and have tried both a simple glass of water to rooting in Coco Coir, both methods work! Still there will be a small percentage of failures with both. Your are the high priest of youtube in my opinion! Thanks for making videos! Now, if I could just improve my grafting skills!
This channel is pure gold
Of all the fig cutting videos I've watched, this one is the most well prepared, succint and comprehensive. Thank you.
I am living in India. Here the weather is very hot in summer - it goes up to 44°with extreme dry condition. Hence, like to know can this method be used for any other cuttings of trees. Appreciate your reply and also many more videos.
I’ve been enjoying your videos for the past few years. They are always informative and a pleasure to watch. Thank you very very much😄
Glad you like them! Thanks for the comment and the support.
Sir, i which grafting technique will give best result for durian v graft or z graft?
Here is an easier way. The established tree growing in the ground. I bend over a number of branches so they are touching the soil, place a shovel of soils on it. Place a brick on each to keep it in place. Next year I cut it from the mother plant and dig up the big root ball.
Hi, George. Layering and Air Layering are very good ways of propagating our trees and I have several videos covering this last method. A video on layering on the ground, as you suggest, is also in the pipeline - I have several branches already buried and will try to document the process. One of the old videos even mentions layering briefly, check min. 8.16 of this video - ua-cam.com/video/1OvVjHC2JV0/v-deo.html . However, this is a good option if we own the tree or its near by. Its just not possible to do when we buy cuttings from other sources or receive them from friends😊. Rooting is the only option in this case. Thanks for the comment and the tip.
Assuming you start with a tree and not a cutting
Bending won't work when you don't have a branch close to the ground. And even if you do, there's only gonna be a handful, not hundreds, Einstein!
@@nroytv And coco coir is an incomplete growing medium that can kill plants with nitrogen toxicity if processed incorrectly. Just because a method isn't ideal for your specific situation doesn't make it less valuable or easy for everyone else, Einstein... Some people, smh
Many thanks. Plant propagation is such a fulfilling activity , without equal .
You're quite right. Its always nice when we can propagate new plants from just a few cuttings. Thanks for the comment and the support.
Makes me happy to see the plants.
Love your information! You explain the process very well.
Wow! Very thoughtful. Thanks for sharing!
That's such a neat method! I've always rooted fig cuttings in water & it works pretty well but the transplantation shock when I pot them up regularly kills a good third. (Doesn't matter for these bc I'm just propagating our one variety of fig in case of harsh winter frosts taking out the motherplants or to give them to friends but your method looks even more hands-off and more successful so I'll try that next winter, thank you!)
You're quite right. The main problem with pre-rooting (independently of the rooting medium) is the transplant shock that kills many of the cuttings. This method removes much of that problem, as it allows for a more developed plant that transplants very well to the potting medium.
@@JSacadura Sir, i which grafting technique will give best result for durian v graft or z graft?
Love your videos… Very informative!
Merci pour vos partage. Cela me fait beaucoup progresser...
Tried the techniques I have learned from you. We are currently propagating our different varieties of figs here. Still learning though...
I'm glad the videos are being useful. Keep trying and refining the method until it works for you.
Thanks ❤absolutely fantastic job 👍🌹🌹🌹👏
Merci.
Root cutting fig white Coco coir,
Terbaik Sir Jsacadura 🙂👍🏻🌱
Thank's very much. 👍
Great explanation, thans ❤
Always excellent and nice to watch... Thanks alot
Glad you enjoyed it!. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks for this
This is very useful
Thank You!
Great videos thank you! I get pretty good success with this technique. The bigger problem is that a few weeks to a few months after potting up in 1 gallon pots, many stall and die. I do not think I am overwatering. It is almost always fungus gnat larvae. How to solve this issue?
Thank you!
I like you work good job
Great , to the point , short videos. Love it. What would you do with cuttings that got roots in October and it’s getting cold outside?
thank you for your videos and I subscribed too (I've been watching them repeatedly)... I've tried several ways of rooting fig cuttings and they all fail, but finally I followed your method: cococoir and parafilm wax. My question is.. can you give fertilizer to the rooted cuttings with small leaves developing? at what strength would you recommend? I'm growing them indoors since our weather is getting cold now. Thank you!
Sorry for the late reply, Jennifer. Yes, you can give liquid fertilizer (very diluted - at least half the normal concentration) to growing cuttings with leaves, when you water them. Good luck with your cuttings.
Thank you so much
Nice sharing
Thanks for the yet another gr8 informative video...
Bonjour et bravo pour votre travail 👍👍👍👍
Merci beaucoup pour le commentaire et pour les encouragements.
Obrigado por compartilhar tanto conhecimento o senhor é muito Nobre 👍
Thanks Maestro!
Thank you for sharing your videos 😊
GOOD JOB
Beautiful.
Thank you! Cheers!
Hola¡ Podrías indicar donde adquirir las cajas de plástico transparentes? Saludos y gracias por tu video
👍
🙏🙏🙏 ..
Java Island 🇮🇩
Great video! What fertilizer I should use for young plants in coco coir?
Hi.. I found panache fig is really hard to propagated via cutting and really don't like transplant. Any tips ??
If you own the plant try an airlayer (or ask the owner to do it for you). Its usually foolproof.
I didn't warp up fig cuttings before propagation. Right after a couple of days of being cut off from the tree, my fig cuttings often grew new leaves, and those leaves soon rotted away as they grew more roots.
I didn't put them in the refrigerator.
Merci pour votre travail extraordinaire. Vous méritez tous nos encouragements.
Merci beaucoup pour votre aimable commentaire.
I simply put ficus cuttings in a glass of water and plant them in soil when they root sufficiently.
If it works for you, that's perfectly fine. Not all fig varieties respond so well to rooting in water, though.
@@JSacadura Yes, you are right I am sure.
@Blueskies Not mine.
I really enjoyed the video.
Thank you, for taking the time.
So the buds will come through the parafilm?
Can we also harvest more fruits and roses like this, brother👍👍🌹🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳
Ele foi que plantou aquelas mudas👏👏👏
What kind of potting mix do you use
Brilliant as usual can you suggest some good books on propagation which you might have. Also what's your opinion on applying epsomsalts & water to newly transplanted plants to minimize transplant shock.
Thanks sir
I saw shootings was growing through the tape you used. What type of tape were you using? Thank you so much
Bom Díja,
What are your tips for rooting apricot cuttings? Did you ever try? Thaaaanks
Not really. Apricots don't grow well in my area on their own roots. That's why they are usually grafted on suitable rootstocks.
👍👍
@7:05 when you talk about applying a gel based product and allowing it to dry a bit before placing into the medium, does that go for aloe vera gel as well? thank you for your time
Beautiful 💖
Nice
Very good tips 👌💚
Good
Hello sir Good knowledgeable work....10Q
So nice of you! Cheers.
Are there holes in such boxes where u stored your cuttings for drainage??
Excellent Video. Thanks for that. Do you clean the cuttings (with any fungicide) before covering with parafilm?
I usually don't and rarely have problems with fungus growth. But there is no harm in doing it, to be on the safe side.
@@JSacadura Thank you!
Great video! And what about a black mulberry rooting? Don't you have any tips for us please?
Wish I could grow figs in my area
Great information.
What do you call those pots?
Coco brick expanded in my 5 gal bucket and busted through the sides.
Hi
Thank you very much for all videos tip knowledge and importantly the time and effort you put in. Very much grateful!
If I might ask (I am assuming you're based in Spain) from where do you procure your Parafilm and the rooting powder/gel, I've just moved to France from the UK and just can't seem to find either!
Thank you once again!
I'm based in Portugal. I buy my Parafilm in US Amazon. Lately, its very difficult to find in Europe.
@@JSacadura: Thank you very much for the prompt reply!
Is it the same for rooting powder/gel ?
It was but, recently, they restarted selling it in Europe in several countries.
@@JSacadura: Once again! Thank you very much
whats the best quick draining soil for up potting ? sand and soil ?
You can use a mix of sand and soil to improve draining.
Can this method work for curry leaf plant? Thanks 🙏
What about rooting apples or pear cuttings? Same method or technique as for fig cuttings ? Many thanks
Is it possible to root a cutting from a white oak tree? I have tried two times and it hasn't rooted. I took 6 inch long young growth segment, made a fresh cut on the bottom again, put rooting powder on the cut side, put into starter mix soil.. and nothing. This tree is over 300 years old and I want a clone of it instead of from acorn
I just find your channel and want to ask if you have done a video about grafting mulberry tree's? we have some and we found it very difficult to graft.
Great Video. Do you sell all of those trees that root and if so, where?
When you shave the stem cuttings do you lightly shave them or do you shave them down to the cambium layer (white layer)? Also I've noticed you just shave off some of the layer not completely around the circumference of the stem can you explain why thanks. I really thank you for explaining why it's better to root cuttings horizontally as opposed to vertically no one has ever been able to explain this to me before.
Hi. I only shave lightly. Usually, until I see green or the beginning of the white layer. I don't want to remove the cambium layer were the undifferentiated cells are. Just expose them, at the sides of the node. That's also the reason why I don't scrape all around. I don't want to remove meristematic cells that tend to concentrate in the node areas.
As I have said in the video, rooting horizontally is preferable as it exposes a large area, with several nodes, to the same level of humidity, so less problems with bottom rot (very common when rooting vertically, as the bottom of the cutting is exposed, inevitably, to a higher level of humidity, while the upper part, near the top soil, is much drier). In the traditional method of rooting fig trees, a branch of about 1 meter was cut and buried in a shallow trench, almost horizontally, leaving only the tip above the ground. Before covering it with dirt, the branch was damaged in several places. The injuries promote the development of callus and the roots will grow from the nodes and from the damaged areas.
@@JSacadura wow your knowledge is incredible. You should write a book or produce a CD documenting all this knowledge on plants propagation techniques plant nutrition & their care.
Cant find a video (of yours) on fertilizing your orchards. But i notice you use a centralized irrigation system. I have a very similar albeit smaller orchard with a irrigation system. The though of pulling back all the mulch and using pellet fertilizers is too much. So i'd like to dissolve the pellets and run the liquid through my irrigation lines. 1) have you ever done this? Any pro/cons you can offer. 2) how did you figure out watering ratio and fertilizer to water ratios?
Occasionally, I fertilize with the irrigation system (fertigation). Its an effective way of adding a supplemental dosage of fertilizer that might be needed in some years. There are specific water-soluble products manufactured to be dissolved easily in the irrigation water (I wouldn't recommend trying to dissolve other types of fertilizers). Usual dosage, according to type of crop, is specified in the packages. I have a container (1000 liters) with a bypass connected to the irrigation system and an additional pump, that I use when I want to fertigate. Beware that the irrigation system will have to produce the same debit throughout all the irrigation points or the fertilizer will be unequally distributed.
Tell me please which good the moisture level
When did you cut the cuttings and when did you put them into the box? What age of the cuttings you prefer?
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️👍
Great vid which do you prefer as a propagating media cocopeat or peat moss or sand?. Also which media do you prefer for airlayering?
For rooting, cocopeat for sure. I find it much easier to control the right humidity level. For air layering, you can also use cocopeat or a good potting mix (I usually prefer the potting mix as it doesn't dry out as much and, so, you can leave the container closed, during the whole air layering process).
@@JSacadura thank you for your response I really appreciate your vids & the explanations & instructions therein.
Hi ! I think I missed the part where you mention the depth of the cutting placed in the coco coir.. was it around 2 nodes? Btw do you prefer grafting or rooting? I find it hard to root panache tiger fig ...
What do you use as a good well drain medium.
I use a peat base compost with small gravel mixed
In it . My big problem is cutting in my airing cupboard
Round about 70deg .
Making small leaves and then failing also when potting
Up and failing .
Pre-rooting cuttings has always a few problems when potting up. The local brands of potting mixes that I use over here are not available internationally. Try to use a good quality light potting medium that doesn't absorb too much water. And try to maintain a good level of humidity by lightly spraying the cutting and the young leaves frequently, after potting up. That usually helps in the transition.
does it work on any kind of fruit tree?
Hello I have several fruits but when they sprout leaves they are very beautiful the leaf-cutting ants take all their leaves what I can do to scare them away and they don't eat all the leaves. Thanks!!!
Beautifully explained, shall have to try. However, what is the rooting medium being used unable to understand. Shall appreciate if you could spell it out. Another thing, is it necessary to Wrap the cutting with parafilm, if the same is not available, can we go ahead without the same? Will we get the same result?
Thanks for the video & expecting more from your end which will create interest.
with parafilm, can it be done without the same?
Can this method be used for any other cutting of trees?
To be able to understand my videos better, you might want to turn subtitles ON (I provide English subtitles for every video).
The rooting medium is coco fiber.
Wrapping in parafilm helps to preserve cutting moisture, but you can do this rooting method without it. Just be sure to maintain a good level of humidity and don't let the cutting dry out.
I have used the same method with other cuttings from different types of trees and it works ( but some take much longer to root). An example - How to root plants of Lemon Verbena from cuttings - ua-cam.com/video/Y1EInIVVZdA/v-deo.html
What other fruit/ornamental trees have you had success with in this method? im not supper keen on figs, curious how i can employ this method at my place.
I have used the same method with other cuttings from different types of trees and it works. Beware that most cuttings take much longer to root than figs and some are much more delicate and finicky regarding rooting conditions like temperature and humidity. An example - How to root plants of Lemon Verbena from cuttings - ua-cam.com/video/Y1EInIVVZdA/v-deo.html
Hi. Great video and sharing. May I know what is the measurement size of the shoe boxes that you used ?
About 25cmx50cmx15cm.
Dear sir like your video , one ask question olive tree which plant are we can use grafting / I mind difference plant / i mind same family/ i mind same family another plant please tell me sir give me your kindly please
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whew is it possible to buy such boxes?
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How to make rooting harmom ?
Hi, you root fig cuttings at the beginning of april outside or inside your house window?
What is the minimum night temperature for rooting?
Can i use also fresh cuttings from my fig tree in april not stored ones in fridge?
Do you store fig cuttings taken in october/november for later use in march and if yes how?
Watering the rooting medium can lead to root and funghi, i had luck with lemon, fig, pomegranate. For some reason with Persimmon not, they need more time to root i guess, and i gave them too much water...
Back to fig fruits:
Why are my figs Della Signora variety dry inside?
I am sure it is self ferile. They get sun, water, feriliser high in nitrogen, maybe high nitro is not okay rather high phosphoruous or potassium fertiliser is better?
Do you know lila/viola portugese or Della Signora as its other name?
This variety starts to make small fruits not yet visible right now, and my zone 7/b is cold till middle october, so it wont get ripe.
This Della Signora variety can be a late ripening variety?
Can be a 30-40days difference between early or late ripening varieties?
The seller said this della signora variety makes fruits late may early june and ripens early like end of summer and september in my country.
I start to water this fig della signora end of march,early april, in my zone 7/b and i see fruits earlier than leaves on it in april.
According to the calendar almost 2 months before it is scheduled to make fruits. I think this early and cold innmy climate for the figs april and may to ripen, this is why they fell off dry in june. I think with early watering i bring the plant early in vegetation, and try to make fruits, but the spring is cold, this is why they are dry inside in june. The plant starts to make new fruits end of june, and this is too late to ripen the fruits till october.
If i do not water maybe just from may perhaps it will not produce fruit just in end of may, and it can ripe in the warm summer weather till september?
Others say not enough water, not enough sun, too much nitrogen, cold or too warm weather are also reasons for dry figs?
In my case it gets sun my summer is warm, i fertilise it so can it be that early watering from march can be a reason for dry figs, cause the plant want to make fruits too early in the cold weather, and due to this fact it makes the second crop too late at beginning of august and in my zone the fall is cold too to rioen the figs? I mean cold spring and cold autumn. Should i try to get only one good crop not with dried figs fruits coming in may, ripening in august depending on variety?
My Dalmatie fig makes the same thing with my early watering,but its second crop usually ripens end of august and september.
Thanks for reading and answering, i like your videos, also on grafting
Whow! That's a lot of questions.
Let me see if I have time to reply quickly to a couple of them...
In April you can root outside, in a shaded location.
Even if the temperature drops a bit at night it will only delay rooting (with constant temperature the rooting will be faster).
Fresh cuttings that are starting to lignify (turn brown) will work for rooting but you will have to give ideal rooting conditions during the whole process.
Check this video to see how I select and store cuttings for several months in the fridge - ua-cam.com/video/7ToL5QHIDq4/v-deo.html
From your description, it seems you might have have a late fig variety that is trying to produce a few breba figs. In many varieties, that are supposed to produce only one late crop, they try to produce these early figs and they always drop off, completely dry, every year. Its more common in late varieties (that ripen in September or later). In some colder areas these varieties will be mostly unproductive, no matter what you do.
You can check Ross Raddi's videos or blog post about growing figs inground in colder climates, cutting them back to 6-12 inches every year and overwintering them in a small, long greenhouse for every row. In the description of his videos you will find a link to his spreadsheet on Google docs in which you should be able to find out wether that particular variety is early or not. 'De la signora' is also described on Moserrat Pons' website.
Emmanuel Imbert
Ok i will check it thanks a lot.
Ok so approximately how long did you leave the cuttings in the coir for the extended period before potting out in their individual pots?
Its mentioned in the video (the text in the upper left corner) for each situation. Min. 9.35 - 11-12 weeks of root development before potting up.
@@JSacadura ok thanks i was concentrating more on your actions in the video so i didnt see the text in the corner
@@geriannroth449 I have to keep those bits of text for a longer period (4 secs isn't enough) to allow viewers the time to notice them. Thanks for the feedback.
@@JSacadura np your videos are extremely good diction explanation methodology you really share your wealth of knowledge from the heart
You say avoid a heavy potting medium - I don't know what a heavy potting medium is. Can you recommend a potting medium?
Heavy as in dense something like coco coir or peat moss would be ideal light and fluffy. You want a lot of small air pockets in the mix ideally the mix should be 25% air by volume, and you want some moisture but not a ton, oxygen to a degree can kill a lot of bacteria obviously not all of it but bacteria really thrives in low oxygen anaerobic zones.
You can easily squeeze out extra water from coco coir or peat moss without compacting them. Something like soil/dirt/compost isn't good, though you could get away with a fine bark mix as it doesn't hold much water.
Hi. I live in Vancouver area, BC Canada. When is the best month to start this process? Is this done inside the house or garage? Not out in the cold?
Hi Bert. Im in the eastern side of the UK and for my particular local it's usually Feb/March. Basically towards the end of the dormant period just before spring. The theory is that this is when the sap is starting to rise in the tree so is ready to shoot vigorous growth.
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What is your climate zone? Have you had success with brown turkey variety?
cool........its not the way i do it though.
Whatever works its fine. Everyone has to tweak the different methods to make them work. The important thing is that we are able to propagate those precious and rare varieties.
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