I did this rooting experiment with a first batch of cuttings (8 cuttings). The results shown from min. 7:00 are from that first batch after 48 days. I then decided to do a second batch of cuttings (6 cuttings) to show the procedure I used and even used the same box. That second batch with the 6 cuttings is the one shown in the first part of the video. Some users didn't notice I say (at min 7:00) the results are from the original batch and are puzzled as to why I start with 6 cuttings and end up with 8 cuttings. I apologize for the confusion but there are no tricks. Both batches used the same procedure and the results were similar between the two.
I grow them in water bottle. It produce lots of new leaf from the buds but no roots. But as I keep changing new water every week. roots begin to develope. No soil, no rooting hormone, no parafilm . grow indoor. I think probably work s on certain fruits cutting. Once it develop e lots of root, I transplant it into a good mix soil pot.
Great video, all information, no hype, much appreciated. I root maybe 40-50 fig cuttings every year, I just stick a bunch of them in a large pot and put it outdoors in February or so, using potting soil. About 80-90 percent root that way, no particular care except I do scrape the bottom couple of inches before potting. I'm lucky in that my temperatures run 3-8 degrees C that time of year with lots of rain, so they root slowly and no worries about drying out. Same thing with currants, goodseberries, grapes, kiwi, all sorts of plants.
I've tried rooting numerous plants with and without hormone... whereas I was able to root everything without using hormone, some plants such as Passion Fruit did not root while using the hormone so for me rooting hormone isn't necessary. Happy New Year JS!!! Hope your growing and harvest are even more bountiful this year!
Thanks. Happy New Year for you to. I'm hoping for a good harvest this year. Let's see if the weather helps. Regarding rooting hormones... Plant hormones are tricky to use as the same hormone, in different concentrations, can do different things for the same plant. In the right concentration some auxins can promote root grow, but if you use higher concentrations, the interactions with other growth factors and other hormones might cause problems regarding leaf growth, for instance. The concentration that is available in most available brands usually promotes root growth in most plants but seems to decrease that same root development in others. So, testing is necessary for each plant and, as you found out, in some cases its best not to use any hormone.
@@JSacadura and of course the extent of what I was rooting is limited, I'm sure I will encounter an instance when rooting hormone is preferable but so far I haven't run across an issue. It's much warmer this winter than last where we had actual frost days. I'm actually able to germinate and grow things that probably wouldn't have survived in the wet and cold of last winter. I only wish I tried to grow more things than I have now. Cheers.
fig cuttings aren't that much hard to grow root needless to use the hormone but I would like to see the same experiment with olive trees or some hard wood trees. however I really enjoyed the video thanks
I liked the experiment you did with the cuttings. I learned that you can get the same results with root growth without using the rooting hormone. This was a very helpful/ interesting video Thank you for sharing. Greedings from Phoenix Arizona USA.
Truelove that's fine in a consumistic point of view but some people like to do with less, some even find it a quality 😉 by the way there's no vitamin tablets that can give what proper grown fruit, vegetables, legumes, roots, seeds and nuts can.
I’m no pro by any means but from my experience, I’ve never used rooting hormones before and I have 14 very healthy cuttings with great roots on various fig varieties. Maybe I would have a bunch more if I did use it because I’ve had some that didn’t take but it seems it’s not necessary
In my experience (which is VERY limited) rooting hormone turns a 20% rooting chance into a 100% rooting chance. I tried for the first time to root cuttings last year and out of 4 cuttings 1 of them rooted. With the 3 that didn't root I cut off the rotten part, put on rooting hormone, and tried again, and amazingly they all were only not still alive after all that but all rooted! 2 of them are doing phenomenal outside and have already quadroupled in size, 2 were left inside to experiment with indoor growing, and one of those died due to a fungus gnat infestation.
Hi, Devin. Thanks for the comment. If your cuttings were rotting the humidity level was probably too high. I don't have any doubts that the hormone promotes more roots. I was just trying to demonstrate that they are not indispensable to the rooting process.
Olá, Jorge. Ainda não a consegui encontrar à venda em Portugal. A que uso, veio da Amazon. Mesmo com portes e direitos ainda sai mais barato do que as alternativas que se encontram por cá.
I had some of those type of videos scheduled. Unfortunately, the weather is not helping (lots of heavy rain) and the window for grafting grapes is closing up.
It seem the one without rooting hormones are doing better, have longer and more roots, am I wrong? Can I use two or three years old branch for rooting, or has to be only last year branch? Thank you for your video!
Muito obrigado pela mais um video :) These kind of comparisons are really nice! Once we have a nursery setup I´d like to experiment also with willow tea, honey and cinnamon. Those should also help rooting and protecting during rooting. thanks again!
Fig cuttings will make roots at each node which is submerged, in a suitable airy enough medium, so no substantial benefit for making the veneer-slices in the lower zone, nor wrapping the cutting with parafilm.
Thanks for the comment. We simply have different experiences hen rooting fig cuttings. "Fig cuttings will make roots at each node which is submerged". I have much more roots coming from the nodes near the scrapped areas, than from the other nodes (several articles point that wounding the tissues helps in root development - and my own experience confirms it). Wrapping the cutting in parafilm helps to maintain the moisture level inside the cutting and until the buds start to grow. The cuttings that don't have the parafilm have much more tendency to dehydrate and they also get fungus much more easily so, to me, although not essential, the use of Parafilm has advantages.
Hello, thank you very much for your very useful videos and all the experience you kindly share with us. I'd like to ask you where do you keep the fig cuttings once they've well rooted in Winter and potted them, I mean you keep them in a warm place with light or are they ready to be brought outside? I live in North of Italy and it's pretty cold here in Winter, let's say close to zero grade Celsius during night. Thanks again
In the winter, I root my figs indoors, in a greenhouse. They stay there until the spring. Then I bring them outside and repot them. If the growth is enough, I usually plant them in the soil before the winter (or in the following season).
You where not paying attention, Sarah. At min. 7 of the video, I clearly stated that I was showing the results of the "Original Batch" of cuttings (that had 8 cuttings in it). The process used was the same. I just filmed the second batch (the 6 cuttings that appear in the beginning of the video) to show what I had done.
I improvised a greenhouse from an old small barn (its the location where the video was filmed). The temperatures inside are enough to keep the plants alive and still growing during the winter. Before, i had to keep them inside and provide artificial light.
Can you do an experiment, or what is your opinion of Cinnamon? I know it has no rooting hormone, but it is anti-fungal and preventing rot is a significant component of rooting. And if you use something like cinnamon tea, would you submerge the whole cutting or only the part that makes contact with the growing medium?
I notice he isn't damaging the node, only the backside of the cutting. I cut and scratched tree cuttings and pushed them/cuttings/branches from trees into the ground outside in the very early spring. This was very soon after making the cutting. I didn't use rooting hormone or parafilm. I didn't water or feed. The soil type was loamy and drains well, in a mostly shady area. Some of the cuttings developed roots and have leaves growing 3 months later. It's been very humid this year. I think many plants will root, depending on the season, and environment. I will transplant those rooted cutting into a growing pot, and place them into my landscape next spring.
My Grandmother told me, how almost a century ago, they would split the bottom of a cutting, and insert a single grain of Wheat, to stimulate rooting. She said the growth chemical in the wheat seed was enough to encourage rooting. Perhaps the split bark worked as a scraping. After viewing this video, I am unsure if the seed, or the cut, or both encouraged rooting in her plants. Thank you for a very informative and pleasant video. PS Are you North or South of the Equator? Is November your Spring or your Autumn?
Thanks for your interesting comment, Tom. There are several factors that promote root growth from undifferentiated cells and damaging the tissues around those cells is definitively one of them. I am located in Portugal (Northern Hemisphere). The season here is Winter and November was Autumn.
I have always put them in bottles of water and change every day....when i see the roots nodules appearing....i put them straight in a pot......had plenty of success like that with figs.
Fig, roses, grape vine so easy to grow from cuttings but with rooting hormones it makes faster, also for other trees which is harder to roots you may need rooting hormones
Its a rooting hormone. Its main objective is helping in the development of roots in difficult to root varieties. Google translated - Det är ett rotande hormon. Dess huvudsakliga mål är att hjälpa till att utveckla rötter i svåra till rotvaror.
I haven’t seen any benefits to scraping at all. In fact on the cuttings I’ve successfully rooted, with no hormones, the roots don’t even come out of the scraped area so I stopped that step. Just my experience
@@justblast4111 - Within my limited experience. All I can say is that I don't have any conclusive result! Never used hormones. But they seem to succeed or fail at similar rate! Either with cutting or scrapping. Curiously never tried without one of those steps...
Para los rosales se puede utilizar el mismo proceso. Esta Primavera quiero a hacer un vídeo con rosales para mostrar los resultados con varias mezclas de enraizamiento.
How does this method of producing new trees compare with grafting onto root stock? I mean for apples in particular. Does grafting produce a tree with vigour controlled by the root stock and does grafting onto root stock decrease the time taken to produce a young tree ready to plant out.?
The rootstocks are used because they are more resistant to diseases and extreme soil conditions. You selected the rootstock according to the soil in your orchard. They are also selected according to productivity and size of the future tree (dwarfing rootstocks need much less space, as the resulting trees are much smaller and they can be very productive). They also may induce early production with some trees giving fruit in the second year, unlike seedling rootstock that may take 4-6 years to start producing. Most apple trees don't grow so well in their own roots, that's why the preferred method of propagation is grafting into selected rootstocks, not rooting.
Hola JSacadura. Sabes por casualidad si con esta técnica de enraizamiento, se puede enraizar el portainjerto Garnem GXN? Muchas gracias y enhorabuena por este magnifico canal. Saludos desde España
Hola, Sebastian Con algunos portainjertos es posible utilizar estacas semi-leñosas y enraizar sin muchos problemas (el enraizado puede prolongarse por muchos meses y puede ser necesario utilizar hormonas si es una especie que produce raíces con más dificultad). Pero, por lo que he leído (nunca lo he intentado) el Garnem el mucho más complicado y se está utilizando propagación in vitro, para propagar este híbrido.
Buenas tardes y felices fiestas, una pregunta esto lo hace en esta época en invierno, o en otra época, y con lo que las cubre es parafilm? Muchas gracias y aprendo mucho de sus vídeos un saludo desde Granada. España
Felices Fiestas, Ramon. Para mí, la mejor época para enraizar es por final de Enero/Febrero pero, se puede hacer en otras épocas manteniendo la temperatura por los 20-24ºC. El Parafilm no es indispensable ya que se puede improvisar un mini invernadero húmedo, pero facilita mucho ya que mantiene la humedad del esqueje sin necesidad de una atmósfera controlada. Un saludo.
I enjoy watching your well made videos and explanations. Are all rooting hormones the same? (indole butyric acid?) Have you any experience with Gibberellic acid (plant growth hormone?) Will roots also develop if you just soak them in water? Thank you
all your vids are great, especialy about figs. I am from Croatia and I have one small orchard in a part of Herzegovina. We have not so much diferent varietyes of figs, like you are, I have five of them. Unfortunatly offer of figs in my area is not so wile range. I am interested to you sent cuttigs for grating to people who are fig enthusiasts. I am asknig for next spring, Thanks.
Most fruit types will work. I don't root the ones you mention though, as they don't grow very well on their own roots. Most fruit types are grafted into selected and resistant root stocks.
Hi! I’m in New Jersey and i planted Japanese maple cutting yesterday and did they same steps as you did and I mixed some water and hormone and let the cutting sit there for 5 minutes and then straight with powder hormone and as dirt I used sphagnum peat moss mix with akadama and at the end I placed it on top of a humidity tray and covered it with a plastic bag!! Now do you think it will work ?
Hi. Beware of mold development if the plastic bag is closed. Also, Japanese maple cuttings should be left with a couple of top leaves for successful rooting and might prefer a good potting soil to root instead of peat moss. Let me now how it went.
Hello, greetings from Newberg Oregon. Excellent informative video. A question. Do you have experience using Willow water collected from Willow branches in a vase filled with water for propagation? Does using the Willow water improve rooting success because of the natural hormone secreted from the Willows? I have observed the natural treatment from Willow cuttings on Hibiscus plants I’m trying to root in a water vase. When I placed a Willow branch in the Hibiscus vase apparent bacteria in the vase appeared to have been killed off by the Willow hormones. Thank you for your comments.
My grandfather used willow water as a natural rooting treatment. Unfortunately, the willow we had near by was cut down, so I never had a chance of trying it for myself, so I can't speak on the eventual benefits first hand. If I have the chance I will try it and I will post about the results. Thanks for the comment.
You can stick a branch in your water or directly in the pot where you are rooting. It's well know method in scandinavia but is it better than rooting hormones i don't know
Update: Happy Saturday everyone. I’ve seen two distinctive changes in Cherry and Hibiscus cuttings I’ve placed in Willow water. First, the water I use is city tap water that has sat on the counter overnight to allow the chlorine to dissipate. For the Cherry and Hibiscus, each cutting moved to creating new leaf buds. Second: water was cloudy in both vases with only the cuttings. When the willow branch with initial root system and the willow water was added to both cuttings, the water cleared up! I’m no scientist, but I’m assuming the natural bactericide produced by the rooting Willow branch and related water eliminated the bacteria in the cuttings vase. Conclusion.... First: Willow water does appear to promote plant growth. Second: The addition of Willow water to the cuttings cleared up the water in the cuttings vases, me making the assumption the Willow water does indeed kill bacteria. MORE detailed information to come in the future. My plan is to use a scientific approach testing the effects of Willow water. Eventually I will expand my Willow process to include a Willow branch rooting tank so I can collect larger quantities of Willow water with rooting branches. Thanks
I usually open the lid a couple of times during the week, for a few minutes, so the humidity level is not too excessive inside. This also helps to prevent the development of fungus. If the weather is too hot, I might open it more frequently.
I don't think there was any hormone contamination of the other cuttings. The coco coir was only very slightly damp to start with, the hormone applied is a gel based product and it was left to dry completely before the cuttings were placed inside the box. Furthermore, watering was very light and from above (the hormone based cuttings were in the bottom). I could have used different boxes, but than we could speculate if the conditions were really identical in both boxes...
Outside - In late winter or early spring (in my zone 9a , around February/March). Inside - any month will do, as long as the temperature and humidity is controlled and you have dormant scions.
The upper buds can't be covered with electrical tape or they won't be able to grow. If you don't have parafilm its best to avoid covering the upper part of the scion with anything. Just make sure the moisture level is enough so they cutting doesn't dry out (which is the main reason to use parafilm, in the first place).
When potting-up i prefer a lighter potting soil that i mix myself from 2-3 different local brands and add a bit of compost. For rooting i use coco coir in most cases. This is a video i did last year about potting mixes - ua-cam.com/video/1mHusYY9iB0/v-deo.html
Noche Blanca that would have introduced the possibility of unexpected variables to the system, this way all cutting were under the same conditions, if you're thinking that the rooting hormone could have been shared, it was absorbed before any roots were formed.
@@buteos8632 I am pointing at the use of: 1) glass containers of the same size thoroughly cleaned 2) same amount of soil from the same batch of soil. 3) same exact size cuttings since the size of the cuttings influences formation of roots due to the 'balance of energy' of the plant Place containers in an area where they are exposed to the same amount of light and other environmental factors, of course, with the containers being sealed.
Thanks for the comment. Even with the rigorous setup you are mentioning, it would be very difficult to maintain the same amount of moisture in different containers (the level of evaporation could be different and that might influence the results, as you can't fully seal the containers or mold would develop, killing the cuttings). I preferred to maintain them in the same box for that reason, as humidity level is one of the major factors to successful rooting.
they actualy not need hormone cause, they were had it. the hormone will work at very very little of dose. dont spread your money, save it. they just need the fungicide at their bottom and top of cutting. this methode can app in all of ficus genus.
Rooting hormones can be useful in difficult to root species. Regarding the use of fungicide in fig cuttings i used to disinfect my cuttings, but now i don't and don't have fungus problems. I believe it's just a matter of better controlling the degree of humidity in the rooting mix. Sure, with higher temperatures, as you might have where you live, things can be different, so fungicide might help...
Some cuttings seem to do better with a mix of soil and sand, usually the evergreen types. So, no, i don't use coco coir for all plants, but most root well in that medium. I like it because controlling the moisture is easier, as it changes color when dry, and its inert, so pests and pathogens don't like it.
Hi, Josephine. I also hydrate my cuttings when they are stored for a bit more time than usual. That helps those semi dried out cuttings to root much better. Didn't felt the need yet to hydrate recent cut ones, though. Thanks for the tip, anyway.
It's called Parafilm Nursery Grafting Tape. Check the manufacturer website for more information - www.bemis.com/na/products/parafilm-floratape/parafilm-grafting
@@JSacadura I understand, I wish you success in this good deed. A few years, a very long wait. Maybe you can tell me a reliable source where i can buy, if it does not complicate you. I will be very grateful. Sorry for bad english. Thank you for the videos.
Sr. Joaquim, o senhor deveria ter plantado os galhos de figo sem hormônios em vasos separados. Em seu experimento, os galhos estavam todos juntos e o hormônio contaminou todos.
Obrigado pelo comentário. Não me parece que tenha existido qualquer contaminação. Na experiência original (de notar que o que se vê no início do vídeo, apenas pretende ilustrar o método utilizado) a hormona em gel foi aplicada nas estacas e deixada secar completamente, antes de as colocar na caixa. Por outro lado, as estacas com a hormona foram colocadas na fila inferior, numa caixa com fibra de coco previamente humedecida. As estacas apenas necessitaram de ser regadas uma única vez, passadas duas semanas, pelo que é muito improvável que alguma hormona tenha conseguido ascender para a fila superior onde estavam as estacas sem a hormona e, mesmo que isso possa ter acontecido, as quantidades seriam mínimas e praticamente sem efeito. Ao utilizar vasos separados existiria sempre a dúvida se as condições de enraizamento, durante tantas semanas, se tinham mantido idênticas durante toda a experiência.
I believe that most orchids can be propagated from cuttings. The same method i use in the video should work, but some plants don't like the coco coir very much, so other rooting mediums might be better. You just have to try it out, as i don't have experience with orchids.
Neither is necessary in most cases. But when you compare root development in untreated and unscrapped areas with hormone treated scraped areas (min. 10:50 of the video - ua-cam.com/video/H9xcnJU18Xk/v-deo.html) they are clearly different. That can be important in difficult to root species.
I was grafting in the winter to show that's its possible to graft in late fall, early winter, if you protect the graft well, they will start growing in the next spring. But beware that I have mild winters (only a few days below zero centigrade). It's always better to graft in the spring.
I did this rooting experiment with a first batch of cuttings (8 cuttings). The results shown from min. 7:00 are from that first batch after 48 days.
I then decided to do a second batch of cuttings (6 cuttings) to show the procedure I used and even used the same box. That second batch with the 6 cuttings is the one shown in the first part of the video. Some users didn't notice I say (at min 7:00) the results are from the original batch and are puzzled as to why I start with 6 cuttings and end up with 8 cuttings.
I apologize for the confusion but there are no tricks. Both batches used the same procedure and the results were similar between the two.
JSacadura, could I ask where you got that box from? I’d like to find a box like that. Thank you.
Did all 8 plants survive the up-potting? What if after some weeks there are leaves but no roots? Can the hormone be applied later?
I grow them in water bottle. It produce lots of new leaf from the buds but no roots. But as I keep changing new water every week. roots begin to develope. No soil, no rooting hormone, no parafilm . grow indoor. I think probably work s on certain fruits cutting. Once it develop e lots of root, I transplant it into a good mix soil pot.
@@davejoseph5615 good question, yes it works for me.
Jello Tavy,
Which time of the year you've done that?
... In or outdoors?
Is it possible to do the same during winter?
BTW, what temperature is needed?
Great video, all information, no hype, much appreciated. I root maybe 40-50 fig cuttings every year, I just stick a bunch of them in a large pot and put it outdoors in February or so, using potting soil. About 80-90 percent root that way, no particular care except I do scrape the bottom couple of inches before potting. I'm lucky in that my temperatures run 3-8 degrees C that time of year with lots of rain, so they root slowly and no worries about drying out. Same thing with currants, goodseberries, grapes, kiwi, all sorts of plants.
Do you use parafilm? And do you root around summer time?
TLDR; No significant difference between ones with hormone vs ones without in fig cuttings.
Great content thanks for sharing your experiment!! 🔥
wow root hormones are like snake oil
I've tried rooting numerous plants with and without hormone... whereas I was able to root everything without using hormone, some plants such as Passion Fruit did not root while using the hormone so for me rooting hormone isn't necessary. Happy New Year JS!!! Hope your growing and harvest are even more bountiful this year!
Thanks. Happy New Year for you to. I'm hoping for a good harvest this year. Let's see if the weather helps.
Regarding rooting hormones... Plant hormones are tricky to use as the same hormone, in different concentrations, can do different things for the same plant. In the right concentration some auxins can promote root grow, but if you use higher concentrations, the interactions with other growth factors and other hormones might cause problems regarding leaf growth, for instance. The concentration that is available in most available brands usually promotes root growth in most plants but seems to decrease that same root development in others. So, testing is necessary for each plant and, as you found out, in some cases its best not to use any hormone.
@@JSacadura and of course the extent of what I was rooting is limited, I'm sure I will encounter an instance when rooting hormone is preferable but so far I haven't run across an issue. It's much warmer this winter than last where we had actual frost days. I'm actually able to germinate and grow things that probably wouldn't have survived in the wet and cold of last winter. I only wish I tried to grow more things than I have now. Cheers.
fig cuttings aren't that much hard to grow root needless to use the hormone but I would like to see the same experiment with olive trees or some hard wood trees. however I really enjoyed the video thanks
I liked the experiment you did with the cuttings.
I learned that you can get the same results with root growth without using the rooting hormone.
This was a very helpful/ interesting video
Thank you for sharing.
Greedings from Phoenix Arizona USA.
You're welcome, Debra. Thanks for your comment.
@@JSacadura
😊💕
Come si in sto il kiwi
Only for figs
Truelove that's fine in a consumistic point of view but some people like to do with less, some even find it a quality 😉 by the way there's no vitamin tablets that can give what proper grown fruit, vegetables, legumes, roots, seeds and nuts can.
You really did a good job. I ordered the fig cuttings from the orchard yesterday. I will follow your directions to root my figs.
Thank you for this clear, logical and helpful video.
I’m no pro by any means but from my experience, I’ve never used rooting hormones before and I have 14 very healthy cuttings with great roots on various fig varieties. Maybe I would have a bunch more if I did use it because I’ve had some that didn’t take but it seems it’s not necessary
When I have very difficult to obtain cuttings I use it just to be on the safe side as it speeds up the process. Thanks for the comment.
Can I use sand? Or shredded juniper ash (cedar in central Texas) ?
Is paraffin tape needed? Or is there an alternative (like saran wrap)?
Thanx for sharing. I really like your calm voice and explaining.
Fora de série.
Um dos melhores e mais detalhados canais de agricultura aqui no UA-cam.
MUITO OBRIGADO!
Obrigado pelo apoio, Vitor. Cumprimentos.
In my experience (which is VERY limited) rooting hormone turns a 20% rooting chance into a 100% rooting chance. I tried for the first time to root cuttings last year and out of 4 cuttings 1 of them rooted. With the 3 that didn't root I cut off the rotten part, put on rooting hormone, and tried again, and amazingly they all were only not still alive after all that but all rooted! 2 of them are doing phenomenal outside and have already quadroupled in size, 2 were left inside to experiment with indoor growing, and one of those died due to a fungus gnat infestation.
Hi, Devin. Thanks for the comment. If your cuttings were rotting the humidity level was probably too high. I don't have any doubts that the hormone promotes more roots. I was just trying to demonstrate that they are not indispensable to the rooting process.
I love your videos keep making them ill wach all the time thank you 😊
Muito obrigado por este excelente vídeo! Onde posso encontrar essa fita de parafilme?
Olá, Jorge. Ainda não a consegui encontrar à venda em Portugal. A que uso, veio da Amazon. Mesmo com portes e direitos ainda sai mais barato do que as alternativas que se encontram por cá.
Muito obrigado!
Very nice guide lines. Please upload videos about grapes different budding and grafting techniques
I had some of those type of videos scheduled. Unfortunately, the weather is not helping (lots of heavy rain) and the window for grafting grapes is closing up.
It seem the one without rooting hormones are doing better, have longer and more roots, am I wrong? Can I use two or three years old branch for rooting, or has to be only last year branch? Thank you for your video!
You're right. One year branches will root better. 3 year and older may not root at all.
Muito obrigado pela mais um video :)
These kind of comparisons are really nice! Once we have a nursery setup I´d like to experiment also with willow tea, honey and cinnamon. Those should also help rooting and protecting during rooting.
thanks again!
For a bigger box, is there any difference putting the cutting horizontally vs vertically.
thank you, any reason why you lay them horizontal? will standing upright work?
Such a great video,so I can practice now to plant my fig tree..
Another magnificent video! 🏆🌳
What type of media plantation you use? Is that a mix media between soil and kompos only or any other media?
Fig cuttings will make roots at each node which is submerged, in a suitable airy enough medium, so no substantial benefit for making the veneer-slices in the lower zone, nor wrapping the cutting with parafilm.
Thanks for the comment. We simply have different experiences hen rooting fig cuttings. "Fig cuttings will make roots at each node which is submerged". I have much more roots coming from the nodes near the scrapped areas, than from the other nodes (several articles point that wounding the tissues helps in root development - and my own experience confirms it). Wrapping the cutting in parafilm helps to maintain the moisture level inside the cutting and until the buds start to grow. The cuttings that don't have the parafilm have much more tendency to dehydrate and they also get fungus much more easily so, to me, although not essential, the use of Parafilm has advantages.
What types of tape did you use to cover the branches please let me know
It's called Parafilm
Thank you for sharing your videos what kind of soil mix you used
Hello,
thank you very much for your very useful videos and all the experience you kindly share with us.
I'd like to ask you where do you keep the fig cuttings once they've well rooted in Winter and potted them, I mean you keep them in a warm place with light or are they ready to be brought outside? I live in North of Italy and it's pretty cold here in Winter, let's say close to zero grade Celsius during night.
Thanks again
In the winter, I root my figs indoors, in a greenhouse. They stay there until the spring. Then I bring them outside and repot them. If the growth is enough, I usually plant them in the soil before the winter (or in the following season).
Hello, wat plant a you rooting. Very interesting content.
I am rooting fig trees in this video. Thanks for the comment.
Hi do you have a link for Parafilm? What is the composition of your rooting medium .
Thank you!!!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!!
What types of soil did you use
Added 6 cuttings and retrieved 8 cuttings, its a miracle :)
You where not paying attention, Sarah. At min. 7 of the video, I clearly stated that I was showing the results of the "Original Batch" of cuttings (that had 8 cuttings in it). The process used was the same. I just filmed the second batch (the 6 cuttings that appear in the beginning of the video) to show what I had done.
I'd say this channel is a miracle 😉
hi, please tell me, what is the name of the purple solution?
Hola! Quería preguntarle si los esquejes de higuera una vez enraizados tienen que estar en interior o exterior con sombra. Gracias.
Hola, Paco. Yo los mantengo en exterior, con sombra, hasta que tengan resistencia suficiente para poder ir a pleno sol.
@@JSacadura muchas gracias por su respuesta
Obrigado por mais uma aula sensacional. 👏👏👏
Good results rooting experiment
Tanks JSacadura, this is particularly useful for all us. Where you're gonna put the new plant now in december, to orseve them?
I improvised a greenhouse from an old small barn (its the location where the video was filmed). The temperatures inside are enough to keep the plants alive and still growing during the winter. Before, i had to keep them inside and provide artificial light.
Excellent. Thank you. Enjoyed this video very much.
Just want to know about the white marker you use.
If somebody haven't hormones then what can he use for early rooting process?
Can you do an experiment, or what is your opinion of Cinnamon? I know it has no rooting hormone, but it is anti-fungal and preventing rot is a significant component of rooting. And if you use something like cinnamon tea, would you submerge the whole cutting or only the part that makes contact with the growing medium?
Thanks for shzring
I 'm learning a lot, it's very clear for me now.
I will try
The damaging cut near the first node to encouraging rooting and callusing , does that apply to most fruit tree cuttings?
I notice he isn't damaging the node, only the backside of the cutting. I cut and scratched tree cuttings and pushed them/cuttings/branches from trees into the ground outside in the very early spring. This was very soon after making the cutting. I didn't use rooting hormone or parafilm. I didn't water or feed. The soil type was loamy and drains well, in a mostly shady area. Some of the cuttings developed roots and have leaves growing 3 months later. It's been very humid this year. I think many plants will root, depending on the season, and environment. I will transplant those rooted cutting into a growing pot, and place them into my landscape next spring.
Have you tried with other plants, rooting
My Grandmother told me, how almost a century ago, they would split the bottom of a cutting, and insert a single grain of Wheat, to stimulate rooting. She said the growth chemical in the wheat seed was enough to encourage rooting. Perhaps the split bark worked as a scraping. After viewing this video, I am unsure if the seed, or the cut, or both encouraged rooting in her plants. Thank you for a very informative and pleasant video.
PS Are you North or South of the Equator? Is November your Spring or your Autumn?
Thanks for your interesting comment, Tom. There are several factors that promote root growth from undifferentiated cells and damaging the tissues around those cells is definitively one of them.
I am located in Portugal (Northern Hemisphere). The season here is Winter and November was Autumn.
so you suggest scraping on both sides of the cutting instead for better success is it?
I have always put them in bottles of water and change every day....when i see the roots nodules appearing....i put them straight in a pot......had plenty of success like that with figs.
Fig, roses, grape vine so easy to grow from cuttings but with rooting hormones it makes faster, also for other trees which is harder to roots you may need rooting hormones
Hi. You're right. With harder to root varieties, I would still use rooting hormone or the rooting might fail in some cases.
Hej ! Vad är det du doppar skottet i för vätska !
Its a rooting hormone. Its main objective is helping in the development of roots in difficult to root varieties.
Google translated - Det är ett rotande hormon. Dess huvudsakliga mål är att hjälpa till att utveckla rötter i svåra till rotvaror.
can I use grafting tape or budding tape instead of parafilm?
What did he put for hormone rooting🙂
une tres simple methode de boturage....excellent travail et un Grand merci
Scraping VS cutting the sides... Cutting is much faster but I'm getting more convinced that scraping is the way to go even without hormones?
I reached the same conclusion. Scrapping preserves more of the cambium tissues and many more roots will develop that way.
I haven’t seen any benefits to scraping at all. In fact on the cuttings I’ve successfully rooted, with no hormones, the roots don’t even come out of the scraped area so I stopped that step. Just my experience
@@justblast4111 - Within my limited experience. All I can say is that I don't have any conclusive result! Never used hormones. But they seem to succeed or fail at similar rate! Either with cutting or scrapping. Curiously never tried without one of those steps...
Awesome work, second song in your video was very uplifting.
Thank you. Had not heard of paradigm before; I will look for stand use for my rose cuttings
.. Exelente!
Gracias por la traducción,
aunque entiendo un poco,
Es mejor así.
Este proceso es igual para los rosales????
Para los rosales se puede utilizar el mismo proceso. Esta Primavera quiero a hacer un vídeo con rosales para mostrar los resultados con varias mezclas de enraizamiento.
Very good information।
Thank You।
How does this method of producing new trees compare with grafting onto root stock? I mean for apples in particular. Does grafting produce a tree with vigour controlled by the root stock and does grafting onto root stock decrease the time taken to produce a young tree ready to plant out.?
The rootstocks are used because they are more resistant to diseases and extreme soil conditions. You selected the rootstock according to the soil in your orchard. They are also selected according to productivity and size of the future tree (dwarfing rootstocks need much less space, as the resulting trees are much smaller and they can be very productive). They also may induce early production with some trees giving fruit in the second year, unlike seedling rootstock that may take 4-6 years to start producing. Most apple trees don't grow so well in their own roots, that's why the preferred method of propagation is grafting into selected rootstocks, not rooting.
Hola JSacadura. Sabes por casualidad si con esta técnica de enraizamiento, se puede enraizar el portainjerto Garnem GXN? Muchas gracias y enhorabuena por este magnifico canal. Saludos desde España
Hola, Sebastian Con algunos portainjertos es posible utilizar estacas semi-leñosas y enraizar sin muchos problemas (el enraizado puede prolongarse por muchos meses y puede ser necesario utilizar hormonas si es una especie que produce raíces con más dificultad). Pero, por lo que he leído (nunca lo he intentado) el Garnem el mucho más complicado y se está utilizando propagación in vitro, para propagar este híbrido.
@@JSacadura Muchas gracias maestro. Gracias por responder. Intentare propagarlos
Brother i humbly requested that to make a video about olive plant
Is it true that red onion can grow the roots?
Buenas tardes y felices fiestas, una pregunta esto lo hace en esta época en invierno, o en otra época, y con lo que las cubre es parafilm? Muchas gracias y aprendo mucho de sus vídeos un saludo desde Granada. España
Felices Fiestas, Ramon. Para mí, la mejor época para enraizar es por final de Enero/Febrero pero, se puede hacer en otras épocas manteniendo la temperatura por los 20-24ºC. El Parafilm no es indispensable ya que se puede improvisar un mini invernadero húmedo, pero facilita mucho ya que mantiene la humedad del esqueje sin necesidad de una atmósfera controlada. Un saludo.
@@JSacadura gracias por contestar, lo del parafilm es que lo quiero para hacer injertos también un saludo
I enjoy watching your well made videos and explanations. Are all rooting hormones the same? (indole butyric acid?) Have you any experience with Gibberellic acid (plant growth hormone?) Will roots also develop if you just soak them in water? Thank you
good video what soil are you useing to root and when is the time to do this
Hi, Peter. The best time in my zone (9a) is now, in early spring, using dormant cuttings freshly cut or that were stored in the fridge.
What stone u used there bro?
Nice class ,thank you teacher.
Just passing along some of my experience, Bret. I am also always learning. Thanks for the comment.
That’s a really nice setup!!!
all your vids are great, especialy about figs. I am from Croatia and I have one small orchard in a part of Herzegovina. We have not so much diferent varietyes of figs, like you are, I have five of them. Unfortunatly offer of figs in my area is not so wile range. I am interested to you sent cuttigs for grating to people who are fig enthusiasts. I am asknig for next spring, Thanks.
Sorry. For now I am unable to send cuttings abroad. Maybe in the future.
Does the method gives the same result also for other varieties of fruit trees ? Apple, pear, cherries, apricots etc ? Thank You !
Most fruit types will work. I don't root the ones you mention though, as they don't grow very well on their own roots. Most fruit types are grafted into selected and resistant root stocks.
Hi! I’m in New Jersey and i planted Japanese maple cutting yesterday and did they same steps as you did and I mixed some water and hormone and let the cutting sit there for 5 minutes and then straight with powder hormone and as dirt I used sphagnum peat moss mix with akadama and at the end I placed it on top of a humidity tray and covered it with a plastic bag!! Now do you think it will work ?
Hi. Beware of mold development if the plastic bag is closed. Also, Japanese maple cuttings should be left with a couple of top leaves for successful rooting and might prefer a good potting soil to root instead of peat moss. Let me now how it went.
JSacadura I will thank you!
Good stuff........interesting experiment.
Hello, greetings from Newberg Oregon.
Excellent informative video.
A question. Do you have experience using Willow water collected from Willow branches in a vase filled with water for propagation? Does using the Willow water improve rooting success because of the natural hormone secreted from the Willows?
I have observed the natural treatment from Willow cuttings on Hibiscus plants I’m trying to root in a water vase. When I placed a Willow branch in the Hibiscus vase apparent bacteria in the vase appeared to have been killed off by the Willow hormones.
Thank you for your comments.
My grandfather used willow water as a natural rooting treatment. Unfortunately, the willow we had near by was cut down, so I never had a chance of trying it for myself, so I can't speak on the eventual benefits first hand. If I have the chance I will try it and I will post about the results. Thanks for the comment.
You can stick a branch in your water or directly in the pot where you are rooting. It's well know method in scandinavia but is it better than rooting hormones i don't know
Update:
Happy Saturday everyone. I’ve seen two distinctive changes in Cherry and Hibiscus cuttings I’ve placed in Willow water. First, the water I use is city tap water that has sat on the counter overnight to allow the chlorine to dissipate. For the Cherry and Hibiscus, each cutting moved to creating new leaf buds.
Second: water was cloudy in both vases with only the cuttings. When the willow branch with initial root system and the willow water was added to both cuttings, the water cleared up! I’m no scientist, but I’m assuming the natural bactericide produced by the rooting Willow branch and related water eliminated the bacteria in the cuttings vase. Conclusion.... First: Willow water does appear to promote plant growth. Second: The addition of Willow water to the cuttings cleared up the water in the cuttings vases, me making the assumption the Willow water does indeed kill bacteria. MORE detailed information to come in the future. My plan is to use a scientific approach testing the effects of Willow water. Eventually I will expand my Willow process to include a Willow branch rooting tank so I can collect larger quantities of Willow water with rooting branches. Thanks
very very good job !!!!
Do you keep the humidity chamber closed all the time and do you get a lot of humidity (watery)
I usually open the lid a couple of times during the week, for a few minutes, so the humidity level is not too excessive inside. This also helps to prevent the development of fungus. If the weather is too hot, I might open it more frequently.
Thank you very much. This will help
where do you buy parafilm
Hi, Marcel. I can only find it online. Search for "Parafilm Nursery Grafting Tape"
Won't the rooting hormone spread through the soil and benefitting the un covered branches.
I don't think there was any hormone contamination of the other cuttings. The coco coir was only very slightly damp to start with, the hormone applied is a gel based product and it was left to dry completely before the cuttings were placed inside the box. Furthermore, watering was very light and from above (the hormone based cuttings were in the bottom). I could have used different boxes, but than we could speculate if the conditions were really identical in both boxes...
Wonder if anyone knows where to buy those larger containers(USA) that you put the rooted cuttings in?
You can find very similar ones if you search for "Treepots" or "Tree Seedling Trays" in Amazon - they are sold by Stuewe and Sons.
what's the right time or month to do fig cutting?
Outside - In late winter or early spring (in my zone 9a , around February/March). Inside - any month will do, as long as the temperature and humidity is controlled and you have dormant scions.
I thank you so much
So perfect work
Hi, what do you use as rooting media?
Coco coir is my favorite as its quite easy to maintain a good moisture level.
What are you using for rooting media for root development?
Usually I use coco coir. Some brands have a mix of coco coir and other rooting mediums (like peat moss and tree bark) and i'm testing those now.
Can I use black electrical tape instead of parafilm?
The upper buds can't be covered with electrical tape or they won't be able to grow. If you don't have parafilm its best to avoid covering the upper part of the scion with anything. Just make sure the moisture level is enough so they cutting doesn't dry out (which is the main reason to use parafilm, in the first place).
Hi!👋 Wow! 👏👏👏👍👍👍What kind of plant was rooted? Thanks!
These are fig trees. The same rooting technique will work with most plants, but they might take longer to root.
@@JSacadura Thank You! 👌👍
A y se me olvidaba donde compra el parafilm o lo que sea esto gracias
El Parafilm no está muy fácil de encontrar. Yo lo compro en Amazon (buscar por Parafilm Nursery Grafting Tape).
Dear
Tq so much,
What is that purple hormone call... Tq
The brand its Clonex from Growth Technology.
What is the strech like bant name ? I need this for tissue culture.
Its Parafilm (search the web for Parafilm Nursery Grafting Tape by Bemis).
@@JSacadura Thank you. I used it.
what is that soil media which u use to grow cutting?
When potting-up i prefer a lighter potting soil that i mix myself from 2-3 different local brands and add a bit of compost. For rooting i use coco coir in most cases. This is a video i did last year about potting mixes - ua-cam.com/video/1mHusYY9iB0/v-deo.html
Good stuff , however, You should have used separate containers with same soil medium and same conditions for more accurate results
Noche Blanca that would have introduced the possibility of unexpected variables to the system, this way all cutting were under the same conditions, if you're thinking that the rooting hormone could have been shared, it was absorbed before any roots were formed.
@@buteos8632 I am pointing at the use of:
1) glass containers of the same size thoroughly cleaned
2) same amount of soil from the same batch of soil.
3) same exact size cuttings since the size of the cuttings influences formation of roots due to the 'balance of energy' of the plant
Place containers in an area where they are exposed to the same amount of light and other environmental factors, of course, with the containers being sealed.
@@buteos8632 I know that, to this this properly, it would be much more tedious but the results would also be a lot more accurate
Thanks for the comment. Even with the rigorous setup you are mentioning, it would be very difficult to maintain the same amount of moisture in different containers (the level of evaporation could be different and that might influence the results, as you can't fully seal the containers or mold would develop, killing the cuttings). I preferred to maintain them in the same box for that reason, as humidity level is one of the major factors to successful rooting.
they actualy not need hormone cause, they were had it. the hormone will work at very very little of dose. dont spread your money, save it.
they just need the fungicide at their bottom and top of cutting. this methode can app in all of ficus genus.
Rooting hormones can be useful in difficult to root species. Regarding the use of fungicide in fig cuttings i used to disinfect my cuttings, but now i don't and don't have fungus problems. I believe it's just a matter of better controlling the degree of humidity in the rooting mix. Sure, with higher temperatures, as you might have where you live, things can be different, so fungicide might help...
Do u use coco coir to start root development on all varieties of cuttings?
Some cuttings seem to do better with a mix of soil and sand, usually the evergreen types. So, no, i don't use coco coir for all plants, but most root well in that medium. I like it because controlling the moisture is easier, as it changes color when dry, and its inert, so pests and pathogens don't like it.
JSacadura thank u! I’m building a food forest not a monoculture, so many different varieties. I’ll have to use many different techniques!
Muhteşem bilgiler için teşekkürler.
Bu iş için mevsim önemli mi?
Türkiye'den herkese selamlar
If you root indoors, maintaining a constant temperature, the time of the year is not so important. Outside, the Spring is the best season for rooting.
lately....i STAND all my cuttings , in water for a minimum of 8 hours or so, and stick them in the prepared soil, they root quickly , no problem.
Hi, Josephine. I also hydrate my cuttings when they are stored for a bit more time than usual. That helps those semi dried out cuttings to root much better. Didn't felt the need yet to hydrate recent cut ones, though. Thanks for the tip, anyway.
What is the name of the plastic wrap, again?
It's called Parafilm Nursery Grafting Tape. Check the manufacturer website for more information - www.bemis.com/na/products/parafilm-floratape/parafilm-grafting
Excellent video. Quite informative and well presented.
Hi, are you selling cuttings or seedlings Figo Preto?
Sorry. Not for know. I am using them all in a new fig orchard. Maybe in a couple of years.
@@JSacadura I understand, I wish you success in this good deed. A few years, a very long wait. Maybe you can tell me a reliable source where i can buy, if it does not complicate you. I will be very grateful. Sorry for bad english. Thank you for the videos.
Sr. Joaquim, o senhor deveria ter plantado os galhos de figo sem hormônios em vasos separados.
Em seu experimento, os galhos estavam todos juntos e o hormônio contaminou todos.
Obrigado pelo comentário. Não me parece que tenha existido qualquer contaminação. Na experiência original (de notar que o que se vê no início do vídeo, apenas pretende ilustrar o método utilizado) a hormona em gel foi aplicada nas estacas e deixada secar completamente, antes de as colocar na caixa. Por outro lado, as estacas com a hormona foram colocadas na fila inferior, numa caixa com fibra de coco previamente humedecida. As estacas apenas necessitaram de ser regadas uma única vez, passadas duas semanas, pelo que é muito improvável que alguma hormona tenha conseguido ascender para a fila superior onde estavam as estacas sem a hormona e, mesmo que isso possa ter acontecido, as quantidades seriam mínimas e praticamente sem efeito. Ao utilizar vasos separados existiria sempre a dúvida se as condições de enraizamento, durante tantas semanas, se tinham mantido idênticas durante toda a experiência.
JSacadura 😉
Hello.Thank you very much. I want advice how can I get roots of flnepossus orchid flower.
I believe that most orchids can be propagated from cuttings. The same method i use in the video should work, but some plants don't like the coco coir very much, so other rooting mediums might be better. You just have to try it out, as i don't have experience with orchids.
I never use rooting hormone or parafilm and always have good results. Also, I never scrape the bottom of the branch. It is not necessary.
Neither is necessary in most cases. But when you compare root development in untreated and unscrapped areas with hormone treated scraped areas (min. 10:50 of the video - ua-cam.com/video/H9xcnJU18Xk/v-deo.html) they are clearly different. That can be important in difficult to root species.
Cutting at an angle would give you more surface area for roots to start
You mention November in the video. In your country - is it winter or summer ?
I was grafting in the winter to show that's its possible to graft in late fall, early winter, if you protect the graft well, they will start growing in the next spring. But beware that I have mild winters (only a few days below zero centigrade). It's always better to graft in the spring.
Thank you
Well done have learn something new