If you are using my method of rooting fig cuttings in coco coir and you are having trouble adapting your small plants in the Potting-Up phase, this variant will produce stronger, more robust, roots and plants and it will increase your success rate. If you liked the video, or have any questions about the rooting method, leave a comment and I will try to answer as many as I can. Table of contents: 00:00 - Intro 1. Preparing the cuttings - 2:32 2. Cuttings Evolution with Open Boxes - 4:03 3. Potting-Up Phase - 5:08 4. Maintaining cuttings in coco coir for longer periods - 7:13 Links to more videos on some of the rooting techniques I also use Rooting Fig Cuttings | WHICH of these 4 Rooting Methods is the BEST? - ua-cam.com/video/XZS3JYWvVz4/v-deo.html Rooting Fig Cuttings in Coco Coir | A foolproof rooting method - ua-cam.com/video/cwPvmG9sK_Y/v-deo.html Rooting Fig Cuttings using the “Traditional Method” - ua-cam.com/video/4mMiro_Ik58/v-deo.html **************************************************************** Share the video - ua-cam.com/video/cz6r2AbloPY/v-deo.html **************************************************************** Subscribe to the channel and see more great videos: ua-cam.com/users/JSacadura ****************************************************************
Great video, i think it would be useful to not remove choco in the transplant but maintain the same medium just around the roots (chococoir) to avoid the shock of transplant and then put compost etc to fill the pot.
It has been 3 weeks since this video and I tried this method out, I have a 100% strike rate, extensively visible roots on all cuttings seen through the side of the tote/container. I have a dozen cuttings prepared as suggested in the video in pure coconut coir in a clear plastic container on top of a propagation heat mat which i lightly mist as needed. Will be many more weeks before I transplant them. in only 3 weeks! Thanks for sharing such valuable advise, great videos.
Una gran labor de investigación y divulgación. ¿A partir de cuanto tiempo y cada cuánto es necesario abrir la caja? Recientemente me han salido hongos con una humedad muy leve en la fibra de coco. Gracias!
Lo ideal es abrir la caja con alguna frecuencia (se puede abrir incluso una vez al día, por algunos minutos) para evitar concentración de humedad en demasía sobre el coco y el desarrollo de hongos. Pero, si no se abre por una semana y surgen hongos, el parafilm va a evitar que damnifiquen los esquejes.
I finally had my first fresh fig off the Black Mission tree I got 2 years ago. It was TASTY!!! You told me when I first got my fig tree that it wouldn't be the last one I was going to have and you were right!! I am going to get some other varieties, probably a viola de bordeaux and everyone talks about Black Madeira I'm sure I can make room for 2 more container figs on my porch! Best wishes for your health and safety to you and yours, have a great harvest.
Fantastic video again! This season I potted up 18 cuttings and 17 were successful. I used a large aquarium as an incubator/greenhouse, to try and keep the temp at a consistent 23-24 degrees. It was a great experiment and I had pretty good results for my 2nd attempt at rooting cuttings... I have gone from 2 fig varieties to 8 this year 😁 I hope I can travel back to Portugal next year so I can bring back some cuttings from my grandfather's properties, so I ca try those here in Canada as well. Once again, great video!!! Keep it up!!!
I have used this method with great success 1) Must wrap cuttings with Parafilm 2) Temp should be 72- 78 degrees 3) use good sterile potting media ( coco choir ) 4) water sparingly, less is usually better. Thank you Mr. Sacadura ! ! ! !
@@JSacadura I´ve basicly done everything you did in your video. Only difference is I did not use any parafilm. How much would you think that might change the result?
I used your method and it worked beautifully 💚 I videoed the process and once edited I will credit back to you. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! I have at least 25 new fig trees😂
I wonder if one of the advantages is that the extra weeks in coir allows for the cal at the cut to complete sealing, as a result you can then water fully after repoting without bacteria invading from there and killing the cutting. Thanks again for the very informative video :-)
This is good information. I might try rooting some stems over the coming winter. I have not had much success rooting very many plants except a hibiscus flowering shrub.
May I ask you a question Mr. Sacadura? Suppose you have only one precious fig cutting that you don't want to lose at any cost. What you would you suggest me about how to proceed in terms of increase the probability of success? Thank you. Nick from Greece.
Very good content, I just planted some cuttings in the fig-pop method, this is my first attempt at hardwood propagation. Virtually everything that you did, I did, my main source of information up to this date was the Korean Gardener on UA-cam, a big thanks to the experts for showing us newbies a place to start.
JSacadura, Have you ever tried layering in the coming .media itself? You could attempt to place your coco or peat near the entry point where you initially insert the cutting and your potting mix at the other end. Let the cutting grow into the potting mix. Basically, its what you ha e done when you uproot the cutting, but start out that way instead.
just watched you video now you have done very well with rooting your cuttings it must be spring or summer where you are ? keep up the great work very impressed 👍😊🇦🇺 Adam.D
Be sure to provide a diluted fertilizer in some of your waterings, Vivienne, and let the cuttings grow a few more weeks. You will find out that the resulting new plants are much more resistant to the potting medium and much more tolerant to those new conditions.
@@JSacadura Actually, I made this comment on the video you made about the apple tree that broke at the graft. I don't know why it showed up here. I am interested to see how all the trees you saved have done over the last year.
All the three trees are featured on this video - ua-cam.com/video/w_XIMngTpLQ/v-deo.html , showing the evolution in September of 2020. I will try to include all the trees in a future video to show what's changed.
if you ever want to try your hand at growing a different kind of crop, hit me up and I'll send you the seeds I produce this year :) I've been growing for 3 years now and this year I'll finally be crossing my best and healthiest plants. I know it's got to be legal in Portugal, you guys have been on top of things for awhile now...
Thank you! Love your videos. I have had great success with rooting and I have allready transplanted my cuttings to a small pots. They seem to feel themselves pretty good, growing beautiful leaves. Do you have recommendations how to keep them over winter (I`m in zone 6b) ? Thanks again ! 👍👍👍😊
Sir your videos are very useful and inspire to new guardnears Sir i have big problem with my mango tree please understand my problem sir My problem is i have 3 to 4 years old 8ft tall mango tree in 15×12 pots but its roots comes outside of the pot roots into my ground floor after then i think my pot is not enough to my tree then i shifted to big blue drum after 2weaks my tree good and also flowering i am very happy but after 16days my tree flowering and leaves are drying 😭 atleast one leave not live there is no leaves , after then i think check out overall my tree i found my roots are effected by roots rot 50 %roots are damaged 😔 Sir after then i deside save my tree life i washed with running preasure water and cut off damaged roots and then i replanted with new soil but still no new leaves are nudes are formed my tree i checked my stem layer it was little good top and bottom side good My tree drying top side to down side sir please help me sir my tree little branches are drying 😭 please me any suggestions Please don't forget my request sir please....
Excelente vídeo! Acha que funcionaria em pimentos picantes? Tenho visto quem clone apenas em água mas não tem sido eficaz para mim nem simplesmente espetando na terra. Muito obrigado!
Como siempre, impresionante. Solo como aclaración: las cajas no tienen drenaje, ¿verdad? Gracias por el esfuerzo en la traducción, es muy valioso para todos. Gracias.
Thanks for another great video. I wonder since you keep the lid closed at the beginning and then mist after removing the lid, is the parafilm really necessary?
Realize this is an old question but answering this for others who may be interested. He uses parafilm to prevent dehydration. Unless you have super low humidity I don't think it's necessary. On the flip side if you have super high humidity and no air flow then you have an environment conducive to mold and fungus growth which parafilm can help prevent.
Hi. I love your videos. Thank you. What was the air temperature when you ran these trials? I want to try 10-11 weeks like you but it is cold in my basement and will use bottom heat and a controller. I want to use a similar temperature as your video. Thank you!
Sorry for the late reply. I usually start my cuttings inside a greenhouse and try to maintain them at 20º C (68ºF) (at least). Its best to use bottom heat and keep them around 25ºC (77ºF). Beware that with higher tempeartures mold is most likely to develop. So, the use of Parafilm to protect the cuttings is important. If its not used, keep the moisture levels controlled, aerate the boxes once a day and remove any mold as soon as it appears.
im curious of when is the best time to start cuttings. I want to start some over the fall/ winter but I do not know if the ambient air temp here in my apartment will be sufficient enough to allow root emergence during the said fall and winter. I live in an area with a shorter growing season so I am hoping if I start some in the early-mid fall, that by the time spring gets here, I will have already well established small tree saplings that I could up-pot or direct plant.
Gnats don't adapt very well to pure coco coir. They cause much more problems in the soil (when up-potting). And you can control them using several techniques (sticky paper, diatomaceous earth on top of the pot, avoiding contaminated compost or sterilizing soil mixes, etc..
I am impressed with the results you are achieving with your method for rooting cutting, thus, I am following your method. This is my first attempt at rooting cuttings, I am 4 weeks along and I have some questions. I am indoors with no direct sunlight, when should one apply grow lights and start fertilizing. I am seeing some root growth and top growth from bud swell to 8 inches. I'm concerned top growth may become too leggy searching for light. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Calvin
Hi. After 3-4 weeks you should provide light and you can start spraying (do not overwater) with a a very diluted fertilizer. Good luck with your cuttings.
Thank you for such great videos. I am attempting to use this method. I had to remove bottom heat because it was getting too hot. In one video you showed how to add water at the bottom of shoe box. I am still confused at what point should I do this, should I wait until the coco coir changes colors or when it seems a little dry. Thank you for your time Richard
Where do you get your sturdy square tree pots. Also, just potted 9 cuttings that rooted beautifully using the coco coir after just 3 weeks. Have about 25 cutting just lying on moist sand for over a month. Is it possible to transition these to the coco coir method. Thanks in advance.
Search for "Tall Tree Pots" or "Deepot Tree Pots" and a few vendors will appear. Regarding the cuttings - it's not a good idea to change medium mid rooting unless they have no roots.
Once you place the developed and rooted cutting in separate pots what type of soil you find best suited and what type of fertilizer you like to use? ...thank you
Thank you so much for this great video. I live un Dominican Republic and I have not been able to find Parafilm anywhere. What should I use since I can not find the Parafilm?
Parafilm is not absolutely necessary when rooting cuttings. You can achieve the same results by maintaining a humid atmosphere when rooting, like a mini-greenhouse, to avoid dehydration of the upper part of the cutting (that's the main goal of the parafilm). Parafilm also prevents fungus development on the cuttings. Even if the fungus starts to develop on the box, it can't pass the tape and reach the cutting. Without parafilm, its important to open the rooting box more frequently (for instance, once a day for a few minutes) to avoid fungus development.
Thanks for another great video JSacadura! I have a couple of questions if you please: 1) Have you ever tried starting the cuttings in the same mix that you use later for potting up? If that were used the roots would have less trouble transitioning at potting up, true? Is there a reason you prefer the pure coir? 2) Does the horizontal cutting position work better than vertical?
You can do it indoors in the winter with dormant cuttings. Just be sure to apply bottom heat when rooting. You can also do it in the spring with stored dormant cuttings. And it even works with fresh cuttings, so you can pretty much do it in any time of year (but late winter and early spring are best).
Then I would have to get rid of all of them. Mosaic Virus is prevalent in practically all fig plants in a given region. Usually, its only plants that are debilitated, for some reason, that show symptoms, like cuttings that you have just rooted. Its a bit like the herpes virus in humans. As they grow, most plants outgrow the virus and get healthier and healthier, and can even show no signs of ever having the virus after a couple of years. It happened to several of the varieties I have. When I received the cuttings and rooted them, they were badly affected. Now, they are healthy plants, growing and producing well and not a single leaf has signs of the virus. The problem can be harder to solve in slow growing varieties. A Black Madeira strain that is circulating among collectors is usually stunned by the virus and grows even slower than usual. After finding a healthier strain I discarded the other one, but just because its the same fig variety.
Hi, I am currently in Portugal (Algarve) on vacation. I was looking forward to some fresh breba figs but unfortunately I can't find any. Has the breba season already passed?
In Algarve, most likely. The season starts quite early over there (zone 10). In the North of Portugal (zone 9), where the conditions are colder, you probably would still find brebas (called "Figos Lampos" in our country).
@@JSacadura Thank you! From when until when does the season for Brebas roughly last in the Algarve? In Lisbon I couldn't find any Brebas anymore either.
Hola de Argentina Señor : Veo que ha hecho algunos cambios con el enraizamiento de sus esquejes, y le esta dando resultados mas positivos : Los que hacemos bonsai plantamos los esquejes inclinados para que el viento no los mueva, pero en su caso yo lo vi como no necesario ya que Ud. los planta bajo una tapa, por lo tanto el viento no influye, la hormona que usa es en este momento es la mejor del mercado (una pena que no llegue a mi pais).Otro dato para tener en cuenta cuando pase a los esquejes a sus macetas le aconsejo con todo respeto que se consiga el producto INICIUM , pruebelo si puede en algunas plantas testigo y luego me comenta los resultados.Un gran saludo y buenas noches. Jorge.--
Hola, Jorge. Plantar esquejes inclinados no tiene nada que ver con el viento, es así que se plantaban tradicionalmente los esquejes. Con estos métodos más modernos, me permite colocar más esquejes en un espacio menor, y mantener un nivel de humedad más uniforme en toda la zona que está a desarrollar raíces. Gracias por las sugestiones, y por el comentario. Un saludo.
Se as plantas crescerem bem nas suas próprias raízes não é necessário enxertar. Se for necessário um porta-enxerto resistente, devido a solos inadequados ou doenças persistentes na área, em vez da alporquia, recorre-se ao enxerto.
Muito obrigado pela partilha. Adoro os seus vídeos, tenho aprendido muito e já comecei a experimentar algumas técnicas. É difícil, muito embora você faça parecer tão fácil devido a experiência que tem. Bem haja!
If it stops raining I will (its on my to do list - pruning of plums and peaches). But the weather is so humid that my trees might develop problems if pruned. Just have to wait a bit more for drier weather.
Hi. I was planning on doing that, but this pandemic has affected my available time for producing videos and, since the year is very atypical and most crops are much earlier than usual, and I also have several that were damaged from bad weather, and a few other situations, I will probably skip harvesting videos this year.
Does this method work well for green summer cuttings as well? Have you found a good method for rooting green, partially or completely unlignified cuttings during the summer?
Green cuttings are a bit more delicate and you have to control the humidity levels a bit better but they will also root. the problem might be to adapt the plants to the pots with the hot weather of the summer. That's will its better to root in late winter/early spring.
There are lots of advantages in rooting with an inert medium. The main ones are less problems with fungus and other diseases and a better control of the humidity (which is key to the rooting process). Rooting directly in the potting mix has a less percentage of success.
do you wash your coco coir? i saw in another youtube video, the host washed the coco peat with water several times, to remove any .tannic acid, is this necessary? thank you
It really depends on the coco coir brand you are using. I found out that, with most good brands, that's not necessary. But, if you have any doubts, be sure to rinse it a couple of times, as some cheap coco coir brands may even have salt, that will kill all your cuttings.
None, if possible, during the first couple of weeks. Then, I allow indirect light and increase the exposure, when leaves start to grow. Ideally we don't want leaves to develop before the roots do.
Coco coir has a tendency to absorb too much water. You can control the amount of water in the coco coir easily when rooting, but its much more difficult to do it when the plant is potted. The young roots can rot if a large ball of coco coir is allowed into the pot, even with normal watering.
These plants have more resistant roots, so they can go straight to potting soil and there is no transplant shock. That's the main point for using this method.
I'm like to use Clonex. Its quite effective and being a gel adheres well to the cuttings. But most cuttings will also root without the hormone. They just take more time.
JSacadura se fizer a estaquia de uma figueira que pretendo e necessária a enxertia? ou tenho obrigatoriamente de fazer a estaquia de um porta enxerto e só depois a enxertia? Cumprimentos
Não, Tiago. Nos casos em que as árvores de fruto crescem bem nas suas próprias raízes, como a figueira, não há necessidade de enxertia. Mesmo assim, pode praticar-se para beneficiar do sistema radicular de uma árvore já instalada, por exemplo.
Thank you, I had good success rooting fig cuttings with your original method (didn't have wax paper, substituted for brushing on molten beeswax ). I have not been successful rooting níspero tree, any hints?
@@TheRainHarvester I waited until the wax was just got enough to be liquid and brushed it on fast. Out of 4 cuttings that rooted, one survived potting and is going strong
Why not start them in the tall black pots with 3" of space at the top. Wrap pots in food wrap. Then, in 8 weeks pull them out, add 3" of earthy soil at the bottom and put them back into the tall black pot. The idea is to avoid the tangling/damaging of roots when separating them.
I have tried that but the results are not as good. You can't check for root growth, controlling moisture is more difficult and most of the times the cuttings might rot and you loose them, and can't do anything about it. At least for me, rooting in inert mediums, like coco coir, is safer (less problems with other harmful organisms), and easier to control moisture level (one of the key elements in rooting success). By leaving the plants a bit more time in the coco coir, the roots are stronger and resist potting up to other mediums much better.
Sorry. i don't sell fruit trees. That fig variety are available in northern stores (like viveiros castromil, for instance). Try contacting them (check the website) and see if they ship internationally.
Most likely. A few years ago, most fig enthusiasts used peat moss to root and most still do. I just prefer coco coir as I find it easy to control moisture with this rooting medium.
@@JSacadura I'm close to the three weeks mark. I'm rooting inside my house. some leading started in a couple of cuttings. Yours are outside and seem to be in indirect sun. I can keep mine under light inside. What temperature do you have ( day/night) and what light source?
If you are using my method of rooting fig cuttings in coco coir and you are having trouble adapting your small plants in the Potting-Up phase, this variant will produce stronger, more robust, roots and plants and it will increase your success rate.
If you liked the video, or have any questions about the rooting method, leave a comment and I will try to answer as many as I can.
Table of contents:
00:00 - Intro
1. Preparing the cuttings - 2:32
2. Cuttings Evolution with Open Boxes - 4:03
3. Potting-Up Phase - 5:08
4. Maintaining cuttings in coco coir for longer periods - 7:13
Links to more videos on some of the rooting techniques I also use
Rooting Fig Cuttings | WHICH of these 4 Rooting Methods is the BEST? - ua-cam.com/video/XZS3JYWvVz4/v-deo.html
Rooting Fig Cuttings in Coco Coir | A foolproof rooting method - ua-cam.com/video/cwPvmG9sK_Y/v-deo.html
Rooting Fig Cuttings using the “Traditional Method” - ua-cam.com/video/4mMiro_Ik58/v-deo.html
****************************************************************
Share the video - ua-cam.com/video/cz6r2AbloPY/v-deo.html
****************************************************************
Subscribe to the channel and see more great videos:
ua-cam.com/users/JSacadura
****************************************************************
you're on your way to 100K! Best tutorial grow channel I've run across.
Fantastic! Thank you for this great information
Great video, i think it would be useful to not remove choco in the transplant but maintain the same medium just around the roots (chococoir) to avoid the shock of transplant and then put compost etc to fill the pot.
It has been 3 weeks since this video and I tried this method out, I have a 100% strike rate, extensively visible roots on all cuttings seen through the side of the tote/container. I have a dozen cuttings prepared as suggested in the video in pure coconut coir in a clear plastic container on top of a propagation heat mat which i lightly mist as needed. Will be many more weeks before I transplant them.
in only 3 weeks! Thanks for sharing such valuable advise, great videos.
Rosso Carriola Do you have to wash coconut coir or use it staright away as it is?
Use it as it is.
Una gran labor de investigación y divulgación. ¿A partir de cuanto tiempo y cada cuánto es necesario abrir la caja? Recientemente me han salido hongos con una humedad muy leve en la fibra de coco. Gracias!
Lo ideal es abrir la caja con alguna frecuencia (se puede abrir incluso una vez al día, por algunos minutos) para evitar concentración de humedad en demasía sobre el coco y el desarrollo de hongos. Pero, si no se abre por una semana y surgen hongos, el parafilm va a evitar que damnifiquen los esquejes.
@@JSacadura ¡Muchas gracias por su respuesta!
I finally had my first fresh fig off the Black Mission tree I got 2 years ago. It was TASTY!!! You told me when I first got my fig tree that it wouldn't be the last one I was going to have and you were right!! I am going to get some other varieties, probably a viola de bordeaux and everyone talks about Black Madeira I'm sure I can make room for 2 more container figs on my porch! Best wishes for your health and safety to you and yours, have a great harvest.
I LOVE your channel!! You are the expert! Thank you so much for sharing your expertise!
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video again!
This season I potted up 18 cuttings and 17 were successful. I used a large aquarium as an incubator/greenhouse, to try and keep the temp at a consistent 23-24 degrees.
It was a great experiment and I had pretty good results for my 2nd attempt at rooting cuttings... I have gone from 2 fig varieties to 8 this year 😁
I hope I can travel back to Portugal next year so I can bring back some cuttings from my grandfather's properties, so I ca try those here in Canada as well.
Once again, great video!!!
Keep it up!!!
That's excellent, Jason. Your collection will grow in no time. Beware that collecting fig varieties its quite addictive.😁
I have used this method with great success 1) Must wrap cuttings with Parafilm 2) Temp should be 72- 78 degrees
3) use good sterile potting media ( coco choir ) 4) water sparingly, less is usually better. Thank you Mr. Sacadura ! ! ! !
You're welcome! Good luck with your plants.
@@JSacadura I´ve basicly done everything you did in your video. Only difference is I did not use any parafilm. How much would you think that might change the result?
You are so thorough thank you!!!
I used your method and it worked beautifully 💚 I videoed the process and once edited I will credit back to you. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! I have at least 25 new fig trees😂
very well prepared instructional and scientific videos!!! thank you
You are welcome! Thanks for the comment and support.
Such love and care shown
Thank you very much for the upload !!!
You are so kind! Thanks for the comment.
Great video. I tried your previous method and will tweak it a little like you did
Thank you Sir: you are the Michelangelo of fig rooting and grafting.
I love the style of your videos and they are very informative and interesting. Thanks. Subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Have you tried starting fig treee cuttings in rainwater and indirect sunlight? I’ve had pretty good results with this method.
I wonder if one of the advantages is that the extra weeks in coir allows for the cal at the cut to complete sealing, as a result you can then water fully after repoting without bacteria invading from there and killing the cutting. Thanks again for the very informative video :-)
JSacadura this is a well appreciated modification to rooting figs and I plan to use your revised method in the spring. Thank you.
This is good information. I might try rooting some stems over the coming winter. I have not had much success rooting very many plants except a hibiscus flowering shrub.
Sounds great! Good luck.
May I ask you a question Mr. Sacadura? Suppose you have only one precious fig cutting that you don't want to lose at any cost. What you would you suggest me about how to proceed in terms of increase the probability of success? Thank you. Nick from Greece.
Thank you for the details sir. Really appreciate your info
Very good content, I just planted some cuttings in the fig-pop method, this is my first attempt at hardwood propagation. Virtually everything that you did, I did, my main source of information up to this date was the Korean Gardener on UA-cam, a big thanks to the experts for showing us newbies a place to start.
JSacadura,
Have you ever tried layering in the coming .media itself? You could attempt to place your coco or peat near the entry point where you initially insert the cutting and your potting mix at the other end. Let the cutting grow into the potting mix. Basically, its what you ha e done when you uproot the cutting, but start out that way instead.
just watched you video now you have done very well with rooting your cuttings it must be spring or summer where you are ? keep up the great work very impressed 👍😊🇦🇺 Adam.D
Really cool way to root cuttings!
Thank you, so true, too early transition to soil media killed lots of my cuttings. I will try this method.
Be sure to provide a diluted fertilizer in some of your waterings, Vivienne, and let the cuttings grow a few more weeks. You will find out that the resulting new plants are much more resistant to the potting medium and much more tolerant to those new conditions.
Thank you, JSacadura san.
Would you please update the three trees in this video? Thanks, great video!
Do you mean the trees at the end of the video? I will try to include them in a future video.
@@JSacadura Actually, I made this comment on the video you made about the apple tree that broke at the graft. I don't know why it showed up here. I am interested to see how all the trees you saved have done over the last year.
All the three trees are featured on this video - ua-cam.com/video/w_XIMngTpLQ/v-deo.html , showing the evolution in September of 2020. I will try to include all the trees in a future video to show what's changed.
@@JSacadura many thanks, just watched that one. Looking forward to updates.
Greatly appreciate your videos
Glad you like them! Thanks for the comment.
I wonder if this is suitable for apples, plums & apricots? How much and how often did you liquid fertilize?
Thanks
Thank you so much for sharing!!! 😁 thus is very helpful!
Thank you for sharing with us.
if you ever want to try your hand at growing a different kind of crop, hit me up and I'll send you the seeds I produce this year :) I've been growing for 3 years now and this year I'll finally be crossing my best and healthiest plants. I know it's got to be legal in Portugal, you guys have been on top of things for awhile now...
Hello what media did you use to pot up from coco? Universal potting soil? Thanks
Thank you! Love your videos. I have had great success with rooting and I have allready transplanted my cuttings to a small pots. They seem to feel themselves pretty good, growing beautiful leaves. Do you have recommendations how to keep them over winter (I`m in zone 6b) ? Thanks again ! 👍👍👍😊
Sir your videos are very useful and inspire to new guardnears
Sir i have big problem with my mango tree please understand my problem sir
My problem is i have 3 to 4 years old 8ft tall mango tree in 15×12 pots but its roots comes outside of the pot roots into my ground floor after then i think my pot is not enough to my tree then i shifted to big blue drum after 2weaks my tree good and also flowering i am very happy but after 16days my tree flowering and leaves are drying 😭 atleast one leave not live there is no leaves , after then i think check out overall my tree i found my roots are effected by roots rot 50 %roots are damaged 😔
Sir after then i deside save my tree life i washed with running preasure water and cut off damaged roots and then i replanted with new soil but still no new leaves are nudes are formed my tree i checked my stem layer it was little good top and bottom side good
My tree drying top side to down side sir please help me sir my tree little branches are drying 😭 please me any suggestions
Please don't forget my request sir please....
Excelente vídeo! Acha que funcionaria em pimentos picantes? Tenho visto quem clone apenas em água mas não tem sido eficaz para mim nem simplesmente espetando na terra. Muito obrigado!
Como siempre, impresionante. Solo como aclaración: las cajas no tienen drenaje, ¿verdad? Gracias por el esfuerzo en la traducción, es muy valioso para todos. Gracias.
Lo siento por la respuesta tardía. No es necesario proporcionar drenaje en las cajas. Pero hay que utilizar un medio de enraizamiento apenas húmedo.
Thanks for another great video. I wonder since you keep the lid closed at the beginning and then mist after removing the lid, is the parafilm really necessary?
Realize this is an old question but answering this for others who may be interested. He uses parafilm to prevent dehydration. Unless you have super low humidity I don't think it's necessary. On the flip side if you have super high humidity and no air flow then you have an environment conducive to mold and fungus growth which parafilm can help prevent.
Hi. I love your videos. Thank you. What was the air temperature when you ran these trials? I want to try 10-11 weeks like you but it is cold in my basement and will use bottom heat and a controller. I want to use a similar temperature as your video. Thank you!
Sorry for the late reply. I usually start my cuttings inside a greenhouse and try to maintain them at 20º C (68ºF) (at least). Its best to use bottom heat and keep them around 25ºC (77ºF). Beware that with higher tempeartures mold is most likely to develop. So, the use of Parafilm to protect the cuttings is important. If its not used, keep the moisture levels controlled, aerate the boxes once a day and remove any mold as soon as it appears.
im curious of when is the best time to start cuttings. I want to start some over the fall/ winter but I do not know if the ambient air temp here in my apartment will be sufficient enough to allow root emergence during the said fall and winter. I live in an area with a shorter growing season so I am hoping if I start some in the early-mid fall, that by the time spring gets here, I will have already well established small tree saplings that I could up-pot or direct plant.
70°F is what I read. How did your rooting go?
Great video, will do exactly your way. I’m wondering, how do you combat gnats in the soil as they are always my problem. Thanks.
Gnats don't adapt very well to pure coco coir. They cause much more problems in the soil (when up-potting). And you can control them using several techniques (sticky paper, diatomaceous earth on top of the pot, avoiding contaminated compost or sterilizing soil mixes, etc..
Water using Gnatrol pesticide mixed into water. It is a natural organic method of killing fungus gnats
Thanks!
I am impressed with the results you are achieving with your method for rooting cutting, thus, I am following your method. This is my first attempt at rooting cuttings, I am 4 weeks along and I have some questions. I am indoors with no direct sunlight, when should one apply grow lights and start fertilizing. I am seeing some root growth and top growth from bud swell to 8 inches. I'm concerned top growth may become too leggy searching for light. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Calvin
Hi. After 3-4 weeks you should provide light and you can start spraying (do not overwater) with a a very diluted fertilizer. Good luck with your cuttings.
Thank you
Very Helpful as I am searching for the magic formula for cutting propagation - would you ever apply perlite to your root mix? or do your potting mix?
what kind of potting soil that we should use to transition from coco coir?
Thank you for such great videos. I am attempting to use this method. I had to remove bottom heat because it was getting too hot. In one video you showed how to add water at the bottom of shoe box. I am still confused at what point should I do this, should I wait until the coco coir changes colors or when it seems a little dry. Thank you for your time Richard
Nice
Another great tutorial! Thank you for the great info. I have a question... From where you buy your fig cuttings?
This may be to late to answer, but I use Figbid in the US
great Video. thanks for sharing
Where do you get your sturdy square tree pots. Also, just potted 9 cuttings that rooted beautifully using the coco coir after just 3 weeks. Have about 25 cutting just lying on moist sand for over a month. Is it possible to transition these to the coco coir method. Thanks in advance.
Search for "Tall Tree Pots" or "Deepot Tree Pots" and a few vendors will appear. Regarding the cuttings - it's not a good idea to change medium mid rooting unless they have no roots.
Thank you very much for the upload and sare your technic.
Thank you for explanation.
thanks
Another great turorial, gracias!!
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Excellent information!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment.
Olá jsacadura belíssimo o seu trabalho queria saber se você tem experiência em cultivo de videira
Verry good cutings
Enjoy your videos,thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Do you use bottom heat at any point during this process?
Super
Once you place the developed and rooted cutting in separate pots what type of soil you find best suited and what type of fertilizer you like to use? ...thank you
I like this idea , I’m going to try it 👍🏻🇺🇸
Have fun! Thanks for the comment.
Do you think adding in alfalfa pellets will lead to faster development and growth
Great video sir. Very very happy.👏👏👏
Hi, Pranav. I am glad you liked it. Thanks for the comment.
I noticed that is not a heat mat, what's the temperature in the room?
What temperature and did they need light?
Muito bom
Do you recommend a specific blend of soil for potting up???
Thank you so much for this great video.
I live un Dominican Republic and I have not been able to find Parafilm anywhere. What should I use since I can not find the Parafilm?
Parafilm is not absolutely necessary when rooting cuttings. You can achieve the same results by maintaining a humid atmosphere when rooting, like a mini-greenhouse, to avoid dehydration of the upper part of the cutting (that's the main goal of the parafilm). Parafilm also prevents fungus development on the cuttings. Even if the fungus starts to develop on the box, it can't pass the tape and reach the cutting. Without parafilm, its important to open the rooting box more frequently (for instance, once a day for a few minutes) to avoid fungus development.
@@JSacadura thank you very much for the advice!
I truely appreciate it!
Thanks for another great video JSacadura! I have a couple of questions if you please:
1) Have you ever tried starting the cuttings in the same mix that you use later for potting up? If that were used the roots would have less trouble transitioning at potting up, true? Is there a reason you prefer the pure coir?
2) Does the horizontal cutting position work better than vertical?
Hi would like to know do you do this in Spring and Summer ore any time of the year. Fig trees are dormant in winter
You can do it indoors in the winter with dormant cuttings. Just be sure to apply bottom heat when rooting. You can also do it in the spring with stored dormant cuttings. And it even works with fresh cuttings, so you can pretty much do it in any time of year (but late winter and early spring are best).
Very nice
Ola tudo bem? Gostava de te comprar umas variedades de figueira. Eu tenho neste momento 22 qualidades diferentes.
When is the time to take a cutting from a tree? What temperature do you hold them for rooting? Thank You!
The best time is winter. When the trees are dormant. I prefer to maintain my cuttings at 24-26ºCentigrade (75-78ºF)when rooting.
Some plants have a virus infection, Fig mosaic emaravirus (FMV), you have to get rid of them.
Then I would have to get rid of all of them. Mosaic Virus is prevalent in practically all fig plants in a given region. Usually, its only plants that are debilitated, for some reason, that show symptoms, like cuttings that you have just rooted. Its a bit like the herpes virus in humans. As they grow, most plants outgrow the virus and get healthier and healthier, and can even show no signs of ever having the virus after a couple of years. It happened to several of the varieties I have. When I received the cuttings and rooted them, they were badly affected. Now, they are healthy plants, growing and producing well and not a single leaf has signs of the virus. The problem can be harder to solve in slow growing varieties. A Black Madeira strain that is circulating among collectors is usually stunned by the virus and grows even slower than usual. After finding a healthier strain I discarded the other one, but just because its the same fig variety.
Hi,
I am currently in Portugal (Algarve) on vacation. I was looking forward to some fresh breba figs but unfortunately I can't find any. Has the breba season already passed?
In Algarve, most likely. The season starts quite early over there (zone 10). In the North of Portugal (zone 9), where the conditions are colder, you probably would still find brebas (called "Figos Lampos" in our country).
@@JSacadura Thank you! From when until when does the season for Brebas roughly last in the Algarve?
In Lisbon I couldn't find any Brebas anymore either.
Usually May and June. In the north of the country it may go until mid July for some varieties.
Have you try propagate with water?
Hola de Argentina Señor : Veo que ha hecho algunos cambios con el enraizamiento de sus esquejes, y le esta dando resultados mas positivos : Los que hacemos bonsai plantamos los esquejes inclinados para que el viento no los mueva, pero en su caso yo lo vi como no necesario ya que Ud. los planta bajo una tapa, por lo tanto el viento no influye, la hormona que usa es en este momento es la mejor del mercado (una pena que no llegue a mi pais).Otro dato para tener en cuenta cuando pase a los esquejes a sus macetas le aconsejo con todo respeto que se consiga el producto INICIUM , pruebelo si puede en algunas plantas testigo y luego me comenta los resultados.Un gran saludo y buenas noches. Jorge.--
Hola, Jorge. Plantar esquejes inclinados no tiene nada que ver con el viento, es así que se plantaban tradicionalmente los esquejes. Con estos métodos más modernos, me permite colocar más esquejes en un espacio menor, y mantener un nivel de humedad más uniforme en toda la zona que está a desarrollar raíces. Gracias por las sugestiones, y por el comentario. Un saludo.
Propagação por alporquia necessita de ser enxertada?
Se as plantas crescerem bem nas suas próprias raízes não é necessário enxertar. Se for necessário um porta-enxerto resistente, devido a solos inadequados ou doenças persistentes na área, em vez da alporquia, recorre-se ao enxerto.
Muito obrigado pela partilha. Adoro os seus vídeos, tenho aprendido muito e já comecei a experimentar algumas técnicas. É difícil, muito embora você faça parecer tão fácil devido a experiência que tem.
Bem haja!
Can I use some of the coco coir to the potting mix
Can you make a video of pruning a plum? I love your channel
If it stops raining I will (its on my to do list - pruning of plums and peaches). But the weather is so humid that my trees might develop problems if pruned. Just have to wait a bit more for drier weather.
@@JSacadura thank you
obrigado meu amigo
De nada. Obrigado pelo comentário.
Will you show some videos of fruit harvests this autumn?
Hi. I was planning on doing that, but this pandemic has affected my available time for producing videos and, since the year is very atypical and most crops are much earlier than usual, and I also have several that were damaged from bad weather, and a few other situations, I will probably skip harvesting videos this year.
@@JSacadura That's a shame but thank you anyway, you have the best educational videos on apple trees on youtube, please keep it up!
Does this method work well for green summer cuttings as well? Have you found a good method for rooting green, partially or completely unlignified cuttings during the summer?
Green cuttings are a bit more delicate and you have to control the humidity levels a bit better but they will also root. the problem might be to adapt the plants to the pots with the hot weather of the summer. That's will its better to root in late winter/early spring.
So why not use the potting mix from the beginning? Will they not develop roots?
There are lots of advantages in rooting with an inert medium. The main ones are less problems with fungus and other diseases and a better control of the humidity (which is key to the rooting process). Rooting directly in the potting mix has a less percentage of success.
do you wash your coco coir? i saw in another youtube video, the host washed the coco peat with water several times, to remove any .tannic acid, is this necessary? thank you
It really depends on the coco coir brand you are using. I found out that, with most good brands, that's not necessary. But, if you have any doubts, be sure to rinse it a couple of times, as some cheap coco coir brands may even have salt, that will kill all your cuttings.
What kind of light exposure do you give the cuttings?
None, if possible, during the first couple of weeks. Then, I allow indirect light and increase the exposure, when leaves start to grow. Ideally we don't want leaves to develop before the roots do.
Why don’t you leave so coco choir on the roots so the transition is slower?
Coco coir has a tendency to absorb too much water. You can control the amount of water in the coco coir easily when rooting, but its much more difficult to do it when the plant is potted. The young roots can rot if a large ball of coco coir is allowed into the pot, even with normal watering.
when you up pot with this method can you use a potting soil or do you use the method you use in earlier method with coco coir ?
These plants have more resistant roots, so they can go straight to potting soil and there is no transplant shock. That's the main point for using this method.
what kind of rooting hormone are you using here? I have root tone and it's not doing a very good job for me. Nevermind, I figured it out - Clonex!
I'm like to use Clonex. Its quite effective and being a gel adheres well to the cuttings. But most cuttings will also root without the hormone. They just take more time.
JSacadura se fizer a estaquia de uma figueira que pretendo e necessária a enxertia? ou tenho obrigatoriamente de fazer a estaquia de um porta enxerto e só depois a enxertia? Cumprimentos
Não, Tiago. Nos casos em que as árvores de fruto crescem bem nas suas próprias raízes, como a figueira, não há necessidade de enxertia. Mesmo assim, pode praticar-se para beneficiar do sistema radicular de uma árvore já instalada, por exemplo.
How about the plastic?
tHNAK gINIUS!!!
Thank you, I had good success rooting fig cuttings with your original method (didn't have wax paper, substituted for brushing on molten beeswax ). I have not been successful rooting níspero tree, any hints?
Great! I'm surprised the hot wax doesn't hurt the plant. I wonder if saran/food wrap works.
@@TheRainHarvester I waited until the wax was just got enough to be liquid and brushed it on fast. Out of 4 cuttings that rooted, one survived potting and is going strong
@@YAhoraTu I wonder if dipping them in paint, or white pva glue would work?
Have you used Spaghumoss w peat?
It also works, but I find coco coir easy to work with.
👍🙏
Why not start them in the tall black pots with 3" of space at the top. Wrap pots in food wrap. Then, in 8 weeks pull them out, add 3" of earthy soil at the bottom and put them back into the tall black pot.
The idea is to avoid the tangling/damaging of roots when separating them.
I have tried that but the results are not as good. You can't check for root growth, controlling moisture is more difficult and most of the times the cuttings might rot and you loose them, and can't do anything about it. At least for me, rooting in inert mediums, like coco coir, is safer (less problems with other harmful organisms), and easier to control moisture level (one of the key elements in rooting success). By leaving the plants a bit more time in the coco coir, the roots are stronger and resist potting up to other mediums much better.
Hi I like to know were can I find cuttings off pingo de mel fig or small tree pot shipping to London uk
Sorry. i don't sell fruit trees. That fig variety are available in northern stores (like viveiros castromil, for instance). Try contacting them (check the website) and see if they ship internationally.
Do you think that peat moss will work the same way?
Most likely. A few years ago, most fig enthusiasts used peat moss to root and most still do. I just prefer coco coir as I find it easy to control moisture with this rooting medium.
@@JSacadura I'll try your way with coco coir this year. I'll also use a heating pad so it would be in the 70 s.
Good luck with your rooting.
@@JSacadura Thank you. Keep posting videos. They are a great resource
@@JSacadura I'm close to the three weeks mark. I'm rooting inside my house. some leading started in a couple of cuttings. Yours are outside and seem to be in indirect sun. I can keep mine under light inside. What temperature do you have ( day/night) and what light source?
Please make more videos on growing tomatoes 🍅🍅🍅🍅
I was planning on a couple more, but the first one had such a low interest from viewers, that they were placed further down on my list.
@@JSacadura make 2-3 and You'll see how meny are!
😁