Most common Y Block top end oiling problem back in the day was due to running non detergent motor oil and not changing it enough. That lead to sludge build up and blocking the oil passage.
Engines still lose oil to this day to the top end with detergent motor oil if the proper prep from this video is not followed. Sludge forms in passages that were the flow is very low or not flowing at all, an after the fact problem not the cause.
I agree completely. Thousands of Y block engines performed flawless for well over 100,000 miles because of oil changes and no short time use. The fixes showed here are the right things to do and if were part of Fords manufacturing and assembly would have definitely been better for the average city driver back when they were new and probably prolonged there life for many more years.
Sludge was a huge problem back in the day. I remember seeing it under the valve covers and in the oil pan. Hard sludge, soft sludge, sometimes like someone put a tube of grease in there and hardened it up a bit. Even in engines that were maintained. We didn't overthink it back then. Cleaned it up and put it back together. These days, we know better. It isn't just "Supposed" to be that way, hard thick gooey sludge everywhere.
Thank you Mr Mummert for this video! I wish that I could like it more than once but you know!😁 I have seen a lot of things people have tried over the years all the way from the outside tubing to polishing passages and drill the cam bearings out. One guy I seen tapped the hole in the head and put a zerk in the hole and used a grease gun to push out any obstructions. Really it make sense to use a harder bearing and deepen the groove in the cam. And yes the limiting the amount of oil from the tubes at the end.
Whether you machine a groove in the cam or block behind the bearing it’s a sure way of providing more oil to the rocker arms. Fords designers probably did not anticipate how easy short use and non detergent oil was going to be a major problem but I’m sure by 1956 it was realized and may even had found what now is done for a remedy. I can see them now trying to add a step in the block machining or the cam and Ford bean counters say the extra time and $.05 would not be tolerated.
Refreshing a 4.0 OHV and the new cam bearings had a groove on the OD of the two mid bearings as the stock ones had none. As the block already had the groove and the new bearings provided more oil to travel up and to the heads.
If you change your oil regularly you won't have a oiling problem on a Y block. I had a family member who bought a 1956 Ford, new and drove it until he took of the road in 1972, one of his friends bought the motor in 73 and placed it in a 56T-bird, the motor was a 292 Y-block never rebuild just serviced regularly.
Love your channel,I'm getting ready to tear down a 239 y block just pulled out of my 54 customline have never done it before,it was running when pulled but the oil pressure light comes on after driving it for awhile, so I might be asking for some help, keep up the amazing video
and, of course, there's always a bit more to the story.....my Dad was a good mechanic, and worked on a LOT of Ford Y-blocks, and he said one of the main tricks was to "Stake" the center cam bearing into the Hole across from the drilled holes in the Block ......some of the old ford books talked about this and it was considered to be Mandatory to keep the center cam bearing from turning in the block, thereby blocking the oil flow to the rockers...the way I understood it was you took a hardened steel rod, with a rounded polished tip, and dropped it thru the hole in the block, after the cam bearings was installed, and Whacked it a good lick with your favorite pursuader...From each side....love the old iron..I had a 56 Ford Ranch Wagon 2 door, with a 312 four bbl, and auto ran like a scalded dog.....OnWard.......
Y Blocks dont have cam bearing spinning issues that we've ever seen. I here people say it, we just haven't seen it. We have always followed the procedures in this video and had no issues. Just installed hi quality cam bearings the normal way and made sure the groove in the cam was deep enough. Always Always pressurize the rockerarms.
I was about 4 years old or so when I watched my dad install one of those aftermarket oiling kits on my moms 56 Victoria 4 door hardtop, about 1964 or so. Sadly that car later totalled in an accident by an inattentive driver.
Too bad. 54 - 56 Fords were beautiful cars. I loved them even as a kid, and thought 55 Chevys were nothing special. Of course nowadays, anything that is "Traditionally American" look gorgeous now.
I thought part if the reason for the ’overflow tubes’ was to direct some oil to the timing chain. I like the design of the Y-block oiling system and think that if you keep good, clean oil in the engine it will run fine with the stock oiling arrangement. Dirty oil is the root cause of the failures.
Main Y Block top end oiling problem was due to running non detergent motor oil and not changing it enough. That lead to sludge build up and blocking the oil passage.
Very minor detail on a first generation design that was easily and quickly solved by Ford. Can't say the same for GMs cheap wobbly rocker studs. Yblocks include FE and MEL so your claim is not correct. The real judgement is very few collector chevs have original generation engines, near all Fords do.@@spaceghost8995
Good vid. I actually just groove the outside of the bearing, .090" wide x .015" deep and leave the cam alone. You can also have a billet cam made with no groove this way.
Last month, I posted the fix for Y block rocker oiling problems, (pretty much what you say), and some fool went crazy on me, just because I said that the 54 and 55 cams didn't have a groove in the center journal. He insisted that many did, but the ones I had seen did not. I stated that you should machine a groove in it.
The cross drill was very early on, it is good and bad, it doesn't wear cam bearings as bad, but it has diminishing oil flow as the rpm goes up. It may have returned at the very end in the last few years in trucks. Its okay for low rpm engines but it not the magic answer. Center grooved cams .030" deep with hardened center cam bearings it what works!
Buick did the same stupid thing on the big blocks. I don't know if they make special bearings for the y block but on the Buick and cleveland I think they groove the back of the bearing.
Bearing material needs to be soft because the cam is hard. This is an industry standard. Since the 'Y' is Ford's first attempt at an overhead valve engine, there were mistakes in engine design and manufacture. Instead of revising the 'Y' Ford quickly produced the FE which, by definition, IS a 'deep skirt Y-block' but totally redesigned. How did Ford improve the rockers' oiling problem? Instead of using one cam bearing to oil both heads, FE's use #2 and #4 cam bearings for oiling the left and right heads. Under each cam bearing, they milled a trench so oil can travel UNDER both cam bearings to their rocker's oiling port. Then, Ford eliminated all 'overflow tubes and pressurized the rocker shafts. They also 'slotted' the holes under every rocker arm on the bottom of the rocker shafts. No more oil starved rockers. In short, Ford spent no more money on the 'Y' but instead they constantly improved the FE because they could, all the way up to 429. For my 292, I used an angle grinder to deepen the center cam slot. This doesn't widen the groove but it allows more oil flow to each head even if the soft center bearing wears. I also eliminated the overflow tubes and pressurized the rocker shafts (like Ford did on FE's). This move increases the whole engine's oil system pressure as it ensures more lubrication to each rocker arm. Another advantage is that oil pressure flushes out the small rocker arm holes instead of allowing sediment to plug those holes (a common culprit in old Y-block rockers that don't show any oil flow). Slotting a groove under the cam bearing, in the block, ensures oil flow in case you 'spin the bearing' which covers the holes. Oil continues to flow from the crank, around the cam bearing, to each head. Here's an example: www.squarebirds.org/simplyconnected/390Build/OilMods/DSCN7448.jpg - Dave
WOW Really, There is no REASON to deepen it. My 312 in my 56 Is 100% Original and Runs like a “SWISS WATCH”. As the old saying goes “Don’t Fix it if nots broke”. The factory Cam does a Great job. I have rebuilt a “FEW” FE engines in my Day & Not Once did I ever had a “Top end issue’s” after the Build.
@@jaspert.thudbuckle2845 No kidding on the “Y” block genius, 1958 &’after are FE, I was making a statement on anything past 58. My 56 Tbird 312 is NOT a FE engine. Stop SPLITTING hairs.
@@mummertsspecialvinterests2721 Again Good Video, my apologies if I came across wrong. I did like & Suscribe. You know us old ppl are set in our ways lol.
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Most common Y Block top end oiling problem back in the day was due to running non detergent motor oil and not changing it enough. That lead to sludge build up and blocking the oil passage.
Engines still lose oil to this day to the top end with detergent motor oil if the proper prep from this video is not followed. Sludge forms in passages that were the flow is very low or not flowing at all, an after the fact problem not the cause.
I agree completely. Thousands of Y block engines performed flawless for well over 100,000 miles because of oil changes and no short time use. The fixes showed here are the right things to do and if were part of Fords manufacturing and assembly would have definitely been better for the average city driver back when they were new and probably prolonged there life for many more years.
Sludge was a huge problem back in the day. I remember seeing it under the valve covers and in the oil pan. Hard sludge, soft sludge, sometimes like someone put a tube of grease in there and hardened it up a bit. Even in engines that were maintained. We didn't overthink it back then. Cleaned it up and put it back together. These days, we know better. It isn't just "Supposed" to be that way, hard thick gooey sludge everywhere.
Don't have a y block, but thanks for the video. You guys are recognized as experts. Well done.
Great education! Keep it up guys. I didn't realize there was a different center bearing available.
Thank you Mr Mummert for this video! I wish that I could like it more than once but you know!😁
I have seen a lot of things people have tried over the years all the way from the outside tubing to polishing passages and drill the cam bearings out. One guy I seen tapped the hole in the head and put a zerk in the hole and used a grease gun to push out any obstructions. Really it make sense to use a harder bearing and deepen the groove in the cam. And yes the limiting the amount of oil from the tubes at the end.
Glad to see more Y Block videos.
My dad had to install a top-oiler to our 1956 Ford wagon.
Whether you machine a groove in the cam or block behind the bearing it’s a sure way of providing more oil to the rocker arms. Fords designers probably did not anticipate how easy short use and non detergent oil was going to be a major problem but I’m sure by 1956 it was realized and may even had found what now is done for a remedy. I can see them now trying to add a step in the block machining or the cam and Ford bean counters say the extra time and $.05 would not be tolerated.
Thanks John and team. Looking forward to seeing more of your videos!
thanks john!
a true lesson about y
Great Video! The more knowledge the better. Thanks Guys
Refreshing a 4.0 OHV and the new cam bearings had a groove on the OD of the two mid bearings as the stock ones had none. As the block already had the groove and the new bearings provided more oil to travel up and to the heads.
If you change your oil regularly you won't have a oiling problem on a Y block. I had a family member who bought a 1956 Ford, new and drove it until he took of the road in 1972, one of his friends bought the motor in 73 and placed it in a 56T-bird, the motor was a 292 Y-block never rebuild just serviced regularly.
New cam bearings are not ad hard as older ones, new engine builds will lose oil to the top in less than a 3000 miles if proper mods are not performed.
Wow , Thanks .... I'll keep watching for more about my 312 Y-BLOCK
Bring the videos on! Thanks.
Love your channel,I'm getting ready to tear down a 239 y block just pulled out of my 54 customline have never done it before,it was running when pulled but the oil pressure light comes on after driving it for awhile, so I might be asking for some help, keep up the amazing video
and, of course, there's always a bit more to the story.....my Dad was a good mechanic, and worked on a LOT of Ford Y-blocks, and he said one of the main tricks was to "Stake" the center cam bearing into the Hole across from the drilled holes in the Block ......some of the old ford books talked about this and it was considered to be Mandatory to keep the center cam bearing from turning in the block, thereby blocking the oil flow to the rockers...the way I understood it was you took a hardened steel rod, with a rounded polished tip, and dropped it thru the hole in the block, after the cam bearings was installed, and Whacked it a good lick with your favorite pursuader...From each side....love the old iron..I had a 56 Ford Ranch Wagon 2 door, with a 312 four bbl, and auto ran like a scalded dog.....OnWard.......
Y Blocks dont have cam bearing spinning issues that we've ever seen. I here people say it, we just haven't seen it.
We have always followed the procedures in this video and had no issues. Just installed hi quality cam bearings the normal way and made sure the groove in the cam was deep enough. Always Always pressurize the rockerarms.
I was about 4 years old or so when I watched my dad install one of those aftermarket oiling kits on my moms 56 Victoria 4 door hardtop, about 1964 or so. Sadly that car later totalled in an accident by an inattentive driver.
Too bad. 54 - 56 Fords were beautiful cars. I loved them even as a kid, and thought 55 Chevys were nothing special. Of course nowadays, anything that is "Traditionally American" look gorgeous now.
Nice thanks
I thought part if the reason for the ’overflow tubes’ was to direct some oil to the timing chain. I like the design of the Y-block oiling system and think that if you keep good, clean oil in the engine it will run fine with the stock oiling arrangement. Dirty oil is the root cause of the failures.
I wish it was that simple, unfortunately there is more to it than that.
Main Y Block top end oiling problem was due to running non detergent motor oil and not changing it enough. That lead to sludge build up and blocking the oil passage.
@@captjim007Dude that does NOT explain why every other brand was not plagued by bad oiling. The Y block oiling system was a poor design.
Very minor detail on a first generation design that was easily and quickly solved by Ford. Can't say the same for GMs cheap wobbly rocker studs. Yblocks include FE and MEL so your claim is not correct. The real judgement is very few collector chevs have original generation engines, near all Fords do.@@spaceghost8995
Good vid. I actually just groove the outside of the bearing, .090" wide x .015" deep and leave the cam alone. You can also have a billet cam made with no groove this way.
Most times they oile heavy one side you can attach. the rockers drains together w tubing the kit on the sender w cause r bearing failures
Part# on bearings??
Last month, I posted the fix for Y block rocker oiling problems, (pretty much what you say), and some fool went crazy on me, just because I said that the 54 and 55 cams didn't have a groove in the center journal. He insisted that many did, but the ones I had seen did not. I stated that you should machine a groove in it.
The cross drill was very early on, it is good and bad, it doesn't wear cam bearings as bad, but it has diminishing oil flow as the rpm goes up. It may have returned at the very end in the last few years in trucks. Its okay for low rpm engines but it
not the magic answer.
Center grooved cams .030" deep with hardened center cam bearings it what works!
Buick did the same stupid thing on the big blocks. I don't know if they make special bearings for the y block but on the Buick and cleveland I think they groove the back of the bearing.
Bearing material needs to be soft because the cam is hard. This is an industry standard. Since the 'Y' is Ford's first attempt at an overhead valve engine, there were mistakes in engine design and manufacture. Instead of revising the 'Y' Ford quickly produced the FE which, by definition, IS a 'deep skirt Y-block' but totally redesigned. How did Ford improve the rockers' oiling problem? Instead of using one cam bearing to oil both heads, FE's use #2 and #4 cam bearings for oiling the left and right heads. Under each cam bearing, they milled a trench so oil can travel UNDER both cam bearings to their rocker's oiling port. Then, Ford eliminated all 'overflow tubes and pressurized the rocker shafts. They also 'slotted' the holes under every rocker arm on the bottom of the rocker shafts. No more oil starved rockers. In short, Ford spent no more money on the 'Y' but instead they constantly improved the FE because they could, all the way up to 429.
For my 292, I used an angle grinder to deepen the center cam slot. This doesn't widen the groove but it allows more oil flow to each head even if the soft center bearing wears. I also eliminated the overflow tubes and pressurized the rocker shafts (like Ford did on FE's). This move increases the whole engine's oil system pressure as it ensures more lubrication to each rocker arm. Another advantage is that oil pressure flushes out the small rocker arm holes instead of allowing sediment to plug those holes (a common culprit in old Y-block rockers that don't show any oil flow). Slotting a groove under the cam bearing, in the block, ensures oil flow in case you 'spin the bearing' which covers the holes. Oil continues to flow from the crank, around the cam bearing, to each head. Here's an example: www.squarebirds.org/simplyconnected/390Build/OilMods/DSCN7448.jpg - Dave
Sludge.
WOW Really, There is no REASON to deepen it. My 312 in my 56 Is 100% Original and Runs like a “SWISS WATCH”. As the old saying goes “Don’t Fix it if nots broke”. The factory Cam does a Great job. I have rebuilt a “FEW” FE engines in my Day & Not Once did I ever had a “Top end issue’s” after the Build.
These are not FE engines.
Remember that cam cores from the 50's had slightly deeper grooves in them than the new replacements you get today, and the bearings were a bit harder.
@@jaspert.thudbuckle2845 No kidding on the “Y” block genius, 1958 &’after are FE, I was making a statement on anything past 58. My 56 Tbird 312 is NOT a FE engine. Stop
SPLITTING hairs.
@@mummertsspecialvinterests2721 Again Good Video, my apologies if I came across wrong. I did like & Suscribe. You know us old ppl are set in our ways lol.
@@jamesford3648 The FE's '58 and later were optional engines. 292's were used through 1962 in cars and '64 in pickups.