i do strongly agree with you on this one. Im still in this never ending testing phase of my small candle business journey.So half of my time is spent on ( if not testing and waiting for my candles to cure ) watching tutorials, reading forums, gathering all the stuff I need here and there..and I kid you not when I probably stumble 3 or 5 different informations from different candle maker all over the web. ONe of that which is , to triple wick a 3" diameter container i guess for instant compete meltpool gratification. and im here sitting, ..hello, safety anyone?? I would say, your videos is probably the only one that SCIENTIFICALLY EXPLAINS all the aspect of candle making. Thank you so much for helping out begginers like me.
@@andreahaug2368funny you switch to soap because I’m a soap maker now looking to dive into candles. Going from soap to candles has me feeling like I’m back at square one all over again. Soap is very enjoyable tho, good luck if you do dive into soap making.
Best advice I've heard yet, far too many UA-cam videos advocating a full melt pool on the first burn. This is not a safe candle. You would not be able to touch the jar/vessel by the time it burns down past the halfway point and run the risk of your jar/vessel cracking, shattering or exploding. By far this Chanel has the best advice on candle making and safety standards (which are not preached about enough) keep educating us all 👍 lovin' it 🥰
A lot of the the candle companies say that too and I’m now just learning that that isn’t the most important thing. In my experience a lot of what I’ve tested doesn’t get a full melt pull when I first burn them but after the second or third time it does. And those burn clean. No mushrooming or too much soot and the jars aren’t super hot. Lots of misleading info out there but at least we have people out there to learn from. I’ve been getting so discouraged over the stupid melt pool not happening within 2 hours but I feel better now. Lol.
The challenge is that a lot of customers expect a full melt pool on the first burn. I also prefer the slow burn and achieving a full melt pool toward the end of the burn. I thought i was alone on this lol hello friend 👋🏾🤣
For testing, I have 4 candles that I start with. First candle is 1/4 of the way full, 1/2 way full, 3/4 and full. This way I can see how my candle burns at each of the stages and this way. Of my ones that are burning to hot or not hot enough. I have time to change out the wicks if need be. Food for thought but I have only been doing this for about a year so not a professional at this by any means.
Thank you for this! I have been trying to wick a certain vessel for 3 months and every time it gets down further in the jar it is super hot, the flame is out of control, and there is soot! I just had someone tell me what you just said 2 days ago. So I am testing a different wick that is leaving some tunneling for now. And I will wait until it does a complete burn to see if it cleans the walls at the bottom! This is soooo great! Thank you for sharing!
I'm so glad I found this channel! I'm a beginner in this business and also have a UA-cam channel (My Candle Romance) and your videos are really helpful to everyone who wants to begin making candles. Thanks
Thank you, I really needed this advice. I was hoping the first burn would achieve full melt pool at at the 3 hour (3" diameter) mark it was just shy of the sides fully melting, almost had a marshmallow/iceberg sort of look around the edge of the tin. I will definitely do a full top to bottom test now.
Thank you for this invaluable advice. I agree with leaving a wax margin early on, as this melts down , usually, towards the end. It's good to hear a professional validating this. Thanks. From Ireland.
I was burn testing my three candles a few days ago for burn time when I noticed the melt pools. The candles all have an eco 16 wick and the fragrance oils were Velvet Vanilla, Almond Macaron, and Redwoods and Moss. The Almond Macaron and Redwoods and Moss candles each had a full melt pool half an inch deep but the Velvet Vanilla had a full melt pool an inch deep.
Dear Kevin, here's the problem i have with my customers: they won't burn their candles for more than an hour, the candle card says to but they don't. most times people are in a hurry and they will light it for 40 mins or an hour, maybe an hour and a half and so they don't reach a full melt pool so if i as a candle maker reach my melt pool after about two hours but my clients burn for 45 mins to an hour or a little over an hour (let's say), then tunneling will inevitable happen which is why i wicked up however for a 4h test burn that burned too hot. so how does one settle this? THANK YOU!
You can test as your average customer. First, educate your customers. Have a video explaining how your candles burn and what they can expect. When you test, if you know that they're going to burn for an hour, then do your testing in hour increments. Sure it's tedious but you'll have a realistic picture of how it will perform for your average customer. So for me, I do the 4hour burn each time to select which wick works for me (I'm not a fan of wickless testing). Once I have the wick I like, I make 2 candles with that wick and then try different scenarios: burn for 14 hours straight (in case someone falls asleep) and in short bursts. Then you know what you can expect. I've found that some of my candles tunnel but they catch up perfectly fine once they reach the midway point in the container. Hope this helps!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany thanks you are doing really a good job; I’m from Argentina and I’m in the candle making business, but I only do refills wich technically is challenging, you can’t test as you would do with regular products and vessels do change a lot. Also we have much more limited options regarding wicks so I’m always trying to know more, learn more etc. So I find your channel really informative. Keep working with this great videos!
Thank you so very much for your video. It is so informative and educational. I’m having issues lately unlike before for some reason. Currently testing new 10 new fragrances using 8% FO in Kerasy 4130 wax. Using 77mm diameter jar with HTP 126 wicks. These wicks I’ve been using for a long time in my collection. These new candles now leave lot of wax on one side of the jar and the other side is totally clean, no wax. What could be the cause for this? I’d appreciate any advice on this issue. Thank you.😁🙏
I am sooo glad I found your channel. Thank you so much, oh I found you through Memory Box Candle. I will be taking your little course next weekend when I am off of work. See my son and I want to start a business, we have done 2 starter kits. We just put an order through Esty for supplies, oh my this is sooo much fun. Thanks when you do your test runs, do you use the same size vessel which you plan on selling in your business? Thanks
This is interesting.. would you be able to show us some examples of what’s ideal and what’s not. I notice that when I use htp 73 on my 9 oz straight sided jar I notice I never get a full melt pool. But I get an excellent hot throw, good flame size, my jars never get over heated, no sooting. I still haven’t melted through the full jar. But if it does clean up the jar by the end your saying it’s a good one?
The first and most important thing about candle success is SAFETY. What you describe about your HTP 73 sounds safe. And the fact that you're cleaning up all the wax on the way indicates you have a winner. Keep going to the bottom/end of the candle to see if you're still maintaining a reasonable temperature control, but otherwise YES - that is a good candle.
It's been a while I've been making candles and testing them. I realized that they reach a full meltpool in 3 hours (I've seen candles that reach a full meltpool in 1 hour) regardless, the jar gets really hot when the candle is near the end. I can't risk getting a bigger wick because the jar would be too hot, but I cand go down wick size because the won't be a full meltpool. I don't know what to do really :(
The ultimate judge of your candle is the safety test, not the melt pool. As long as your candle is safe, and performs the way you want, the melt pool really doesn't matter (though it tends to behave pretty good when you're winning in both of those categories).
Hi , what are the standards for reaching a full melt pool for double wicking compared to a single wick? I have single wicking down, but now I’m testing double wicks and it reached a full melt pool the first burn by 1 hour for a 3 inch diameter jar. I know two wicks burn faster than one and I want to double wick but just want to make sure it’s not burning too fast. Thanks.
Wow this is so helpful... I always thought that if it doesn’t have a full melt pool then it’s the wrong size. But watching this makes so much more sense. My other wicks would be in such a big melt pool after like 2 1/2 hours. Way too hot! Thank you for this information. I’ll definitely stop worrying about my new wicks not touching the sides completely and focus on it being safe. Do you have a specific fragrance oil percentage that you like?
Any chance you could do a video on vessels that are exactly the same diameter but are different materials!? I'm new to candle making and I'm actually a bit surprised to not see a lot of discussion about this. I have a vessel that is thick walled ceramic and a tin that is another option. They hold same amount of wax and inner diameter are exactly the same... However the ceramic vessel leaves a ring around the edges for first few 4 hr. burns, and then "catches up" and the tin ones reach a full melt pool in like 2 hours with the same exact wick! I'm really curious why it's not standard knowledge almost to "wick down" for aluminum containers
So informative! I always learn so much from your videos! Question for you- should I still expect my melt pool to burn 1 inch every hour when I’m testing halfway down the jar? I have heard that at the halfway point, the time to reach a full melt pool should be cut in half, since the candle is burning hotter than at the top, but I don’t want to follow the wrong advice. Really appreciate your guidance 🙏🏼
I struggle with melt pools/ wicks so much. I spend so much time to test my tin plate 8 oz jars. It seemed like the best results i had with double ECO 0.75 until i saw many of my candles at my friends homes ended up with tunelling 😁. Although many people said me that candle is very good and burn all the way down. You can test your candle 4 hours every burn and repeat until its down but the problem is the people probably wont do it. I want to create a candle which is safe and will burn all the way down no matter how you burn it, is it even possible ?
Hi Kevin, I'm having trouble with one of my fragrances. Its top notes are being burned off. Should I reduce the percentage of fragrance oil or wick down? The problem is, this wick already barely reaches the edges of the glass (leaves 1mm around the sides) with that % of oil. Thanks in advance!
Ahhh no, I'm not! However, wick selection typically revolves around two things: wax type and diameter. Then it's just a matter of testing it to see if it works.
What about a double wicked candle? I’m using a 3.375 inch diameter jar with two cd4 wicks. No soot, no smoking, but it reaches a full melt pool in an hour. But the jar doesn’t get too hot at all. Feels similar to a coffee cup.
Do you think it's a good idea to add " Our candles are designed to reach full melt pool by the second or third burn" to listing descriptions? It's annoying that customers expect a full melt pool by first burn even though this usually means it's an over wicked candle.
I’m having some issues hoping for help. I use cd wicks. I am more than half way down. I have a tool to perfectly center my wicks but they bend. My candles have amazing hot throw but even at the bottom of my candle the side of the wick that the bend faces away from it doesn’t reach a full melt pool but the side the wick leans towards gets too hot. I don’t know how to fix this issue. I measured the temp at 179 degrees. Also I am struggling with where I should be measuring my temp. I always measure the rim at the top of the candle jar. The sides don’t really over 145 the top is where the heat it on my jars
Hi, Steven - I use an infrared thermometer to measure the sides of my container. Highly highly highly recommend. What can the container take? Generally speaking, we don't want the container sides to exceed about 140°-150°F (per ASTM 2417), but the container can probably take a much higher thermal load than that. Problem is, we just don't want to make candles that behave that way for a variety of reasons. Just talk to Kohls about their recall this year lol.
Do you just shine the IR thermometer at the outside of the glass? I’ve been trying this (clear glass) but the temps seem to vary wildly and some read lower than others, while they feel hotter to touch :(
Problem is, designer candles like diptique are designed to reach a full melt pool on the first burn. So customers use this as a standard. Customers find it satisfying when a candle has a 'pretty' burn rather than a messy one with a slight wall and reaching a full melt pool at the end of the burn.
If "choking" means that it's self extinguishing I'd assume they are too small of a size. For instance, if you're using 3 ECO 2 wicks, you'd want to try with 3 ECO 4 wicks and test. Heavily recommend you replace the wicks in the candle so you don't have to wait or re-pour!
In the industry standard test for container candles, you burn it 4 hours at a time. Check it once per hour, and record the flame height at least once every 4 hours. There's other stuff too, but that's the heart of it, yeah!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany Btw, I have one doubt. Could you help me? I make candles in little crystal containers (45x45 mm) and I use tealight wicks cause this is the littlest ones I can find. The surface is melted within half an hour, with a melt pool of 5mm. I think I shouldn't sell this kind of candles because I dont think people like to light them for only half and hour o 1 hour. Besides, the glass reaches a high temperature within that little time. Don't know what to do...
My opinion - let your customers be the ones that tell you no. I'd try to sell them and let the market tell you it's not a good idea. If you never try, you'll never know! Tealight-sized candles have a market too, I think you'd be surprised.
@@ArmatageCandleCompany Good morning (or night), Kevin! Thank u so much! As always, you are a great help. I think you're right. I hadn't seen it that way, letting the costumer to try the product. I must to go on and see what happen. Thank u again and have a great day!
Make the kit and see how it goes! I wouldn't stress too much about the first few, just get a few rounds of candle making under your belt to see how you like it!
Ok.. Burn time is important.. But I'm a freak i guess.. I want to make a 14 wick candle in either a large stock pot or crock to achieve a off the top equivalent to 5000 btu going by roughly 352btu that a individual flame makes.. How large can i go and what would be the best wick arrangement? If its 7.. I'll make 2
![6 Mistakes Candle Makers Should Avoid & How To Fix Them [Updated]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/-qEby8J59DA/mqdefault.jpg)
i do strongly agree with you on this one. Im still in this never ending testing phase of my small candle business journey.So half of my time is spent on ( if not testing and waiting for my candles to cure ) watching tutorials, reading forums, gathering all the stuff I need here and there..and I kid you not when I probably stumble 3 or 5 different informations from different candle maker all over the web. ONe of that which is , to triple wick a 3" diameter container i guess for instant compete meltpool gratification. and im here sitting, ..hello, safety anyone??
I would say, your videos is probably the only one that SCIENTIFICALLY EXPLAINS all the aspect of candle making. Thank you so much for helping out begginers like me.
You're certainly welcome! There's a lot of data out there for sure. Glad you enjoyed this!
I agree wholeheartedly with you on this good luck
This is me aswell. It seems never ending. Some days I just want to switch to soap 😂
@@andreahaug2368funny you switch to soap because I’m a soap maker now looking to dive into candles. Going from soap to candles has me feeling like I’m back at square one all over again. Soap is very enjoyable tho, good luck if you do dive into soap making.
Best advice I've heard yet, far too many UA-cam videos advocating a full melt pool on the first burn. This is not a safe candle. You would not be able to touch the jar/vessel by the time it burns down past the halfway point and run the risk of your jar/vessel cracking, shattering or exploding. By far this Chanel has the best advice on candle making and safety standards (which are not preached about enough) keep educating us all 👍 lovin' it 🥰
A lot of the the candle companies say that too and I’m now just learning that that isn’t the most important thing. In my experience a lot of what I’ve tested doesn’t get a full melt pull when I first burn them but after the second or third time it does. And those burn clean. No mushrooming or too much soot and the jars aren’t super hot. Lots of misleading info out there but at least we have people out there to learn from. I’ve been getting so discouraged over the stupid melt pool not happening within 2 hours but I feel better now. Lol.
The challenge is that a lot of customers expect a full melt pool on the first burn. I also prefer the slow burn and achieving a full melt pool toward the end of the burn. I thought i was alone on this lol hello friend 👋🏾🤣
That's something I really needed to hear. I need more patience. lol
For testing, I have 4 candles that I start with. First candle is 1/4 of the way full, 1/2 way full, 3/4 and full. This way I can see how my candle burns at each of the stages and this way. Of my ones that are burning to hot or not hot enough. I have time to change out the wicks if need be. Food for thought but I have only been doing this for about a year so not a professional at this by any means.
Thank you for this! I have been trying to wick a certain vessel for 3 months and every time it gets down further in the jar it is super hot, the flame is out of control, and there is soot! I just had someone tell me what you just said 2 days ago. So I am testing a different wick that is leaving some tunneling for now. And I will wait until it does a complete burn to see if it cleans the walls at the bottom! This is soooo great! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for this great video! Your videos are the only ones that actually explain how to create a safe candle
I'm so glad you found it useful - thanks for tuning in!
I'm so glad I found this channel! I'm a beginner in this business and also have a UA-cam channel (My Candle Romance) and your videos are really helpful to everyone who wants to begin making candles. Thanks
Thank you so much! I love watching your channel too - you have an awesome personality and a great take on things!
i watch your videos! I love your personality! thank you to you both
@@arandomsincerity3057 Thank you so much!
Thank you, I really needed this advice. I was hoping the first burn would achieve full melt pool at at the 3 hour (3" diameter) mark it was just shy of the sides fully melting, almost had a marshmallow/iceberg sort of look around the edge of the tin. I will definitely do a full top to bottom test now.
Thank you for this invaluable advice. I agree with leaving a wax margin early on, as this melts down , usually, towards the end. It's good to hear a professional validating this. Thanks. From Ireland.
I was burn testing my three candles a few days ago for burn time when I noticed the melt pools. The candles all have an eco 16 wick and the fragrance oils were Velvet Vanilla, Almond Macaron, and Redwoods and Moss. The Almond Macaron and Redwoods and Moss candles each had a full melt pool half an inch deep but the Velvet Vanilla had a full melt pool an inch deep.
Thanks to you, i have learnt so much things in candle making, while making my own candle.😊👍
My pleasure 😊
Dear Kevin, here's the problem i have with my customers: they won't burn their candles for more than an hour, the candle card says to but they don't. most times people are in a hurry and they will light it for 40 mins or an hour, maybe an hour and a half and so they don't reach a full melt pool so if i as a candle maker reach my melt pool after about two hours but my clients burn for 45 mins to an hour or a little over an hour (let's say), then tunneling will inevitable happen which is why i wicked up however for a 4h test burn that burned too hot. so how does one settle this? THANK YOU!
This is a great one. Hope he answer soon
You can test as your average customer. First, educate your customers. Have a video explaining how your candles burn and what they can expect. When you test, if you know that they're going to burn for an hour, then do your testing in hour increments. Sure it's tedious but you'll have a realistic picture of how it will perform for your average customer. So for me, I do the 4hour burn each time to select which wick works for me (I'm not a fan of wickless testing). Once I have the wick I like, I make 2 candles with that wick and then try different scenarios: burn for 14 hours straight (in case someone falls asleep) and in short bursts. Then you know what you can expect. I've found that some of my candles tunnel but they catch up perfectly fine once they reach the midway point in the container. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the helpful information! Today is the first time your videos have appeared in my algorithm.
This was really helpful. Especially going from hobby to selling. Thanks.
So glad you found it useful.
Such great info!! This makes so much sense! Thank you!
I always find your videos SO informative. THANK YOU. What you said, is exactly what I needed to know right now! Appreciate it :)
I'm so glad I've found your channel!
You deserve much more followers!
Ah thanks!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany thanks you are doing really a good job; I’m from Argentina and I’m in the candle making business, but I only do refills wich technically is challenging, you can’t test as you would do with regular products and vessels do change a lot. Also we have much more limited options regarding wicks so I’m always trying to know more, learn more etc. So I find your channel really informative. Keep working with this great videos!
Sounds like a big challenge! I believe in you. Keep up the great work.
I'm so happy I've found you before I start on my business, I'm learning so much ❤️
what should a melt pool look like for pillar candles?
Thank you so very much for your video. It is so informative and educational. I’m having issues lately unlike before for some reason. Currently testing new 10 new fragrances using 8% FO in Kerasy 4130 wax. Using 77mm diameter jar with HTP 126 wicks. These wicks I’ve been using for a long time in my collection. These new candles now leave lot of wax on one side of the jar and the other side is totally clean, no wax. What could be the cause for this? I’d appreciate any advice on this issue. Thank you.😁🙏
I am sooo glad I found your channel. Thank you so much, oh I found you through Memory Box Candle. I will be taking your little course next weekend when I am off of work. See my son and I want to start a business, we have done 2 starter kits. We just put an order through Esty for supplies, oh my this is sooo much fun. Thanks when you do your test runs, do you use the same size vessel which you plan on selling in your business? Thanks
I'm so happy! That's the best news all week.
As always, great advice, Kevin! Two thumbs up!!! Totally agree.
This is interesting.. would you be able to show us some examples of what’s ideal and what’s not. I notice that when I use htp 73 on my 9 oz straight sided jar I notice I never get a full melt pool. But I get an excellent hot throw, good flame size, my jars never get over heated, no sooting. I still haven’t melted through the full jar. But if it does clean up the jar by the end your saying it’s a good one?
The first and most important thing about candle success is SAFETY. What you describe about your HTP 73 sounds safe. And the fact that you're cleaning up all the wax on the way indicates you have a winner. Keep going to the bottom/end of the candle to see if you're still maintaining a reasonable temperature control, but otherwise YES - that is a good candle.
Very knowledgeable advice. Thank you for your videos! I’ve watched 4 of your videos so far and they have been so helpful.
Always great advice, and it’s free!!
It's been a while I've been making candles and testing them. I realized that they reach a full meltpool in 3 hours (I've seen candles that reach a full meltpool in 1 hour) regardless, the jar gets really hot when the candle is near the end. I can't risk getting a bigger wick because the jar would be too hot, but I cand go down wick size because the won't be a full meltpool. I don't know what to do really :(
The ultimate judge of your candle is the safety test, not the melt pool. As long as your candle is safe, and performs the way you want, the melt pool really doesn't matter (though it tends to behave pretty good when you're winning in both of those categories).
@@ArmatageCandleCompany thanks!❤️
Love your videos. Very good information!!
Hi , what are the standards for reaching a full melt pool for double wicking compared to a single wick?
I have single wicking down, but now I’m testing double wicks and it reached a full melt pool the first burn by 1 hour for a 3 inch diameter jar. I know two wicks burn faster than one and I want to double wick but just want to make sure it’s not burning too fast. Thanks.
The standards are the same no matter the number of wicks. Safety is safety. There are not any allowances for multiple wicks. If that is your question.
Wow this is so helpful... I always thought that if it doesn’t have a full melt pool then it’s the wrong size. But watching this makes so much more sense.
My other wicks would be in such a big melt pool after like 2 1/2 hours. Way too hot!
Thank you for this information. I’ll definitely stop worrying about my new wicks not touching the sides completely and focus on it being safe.
Do you have a specific fragrance oil percentage that you like?
Awesome! Glad it made sense. I typically start with 7% or 8% in most designs if I have nothing else to go off of. Enjoy!
Any chance you could do a video on vessels that are exactly the same diameter but are different materials!? I'm new to candle making and I'm actually a bit surprised to not see a lot of discussion about this. I have a vessel that is thick walled ceramic and a tin that is another option. They hold same amount of wax and inner diameter are exactly the same... However the ceramic vessel leaves a ring around the edges for first few 4 hr. burns, and then "catches up" and the tin ones reach a full melt pool in like 2 hours with the same exact wick!
I'm really curious why it's not standard knowledge almost to "wick down" for aluminum containers
This was so so helpful thank you!
So informative! I always learn so much from your videos! Question for you- should I still expect my melt pool to burn 1 inch every hour when I’m testing halfway down the jar? I have heard that at the halfway point, the time to reach a full melt pool should be cut in half, since the candle is burning hotter than at the top, but I don’t want to follow the wrong advice. Really appreciate your guidance 🙏🏼
I’m starting at the halfway point to , did you figure anything out?
I'm new to correctly burning candles...very helpful!
I'm so glad it helps! Share the word if you're in any groups! I believe strongly that we need our community to focus on safety.
I struggle with melt pools/ wicks so much. I spend so much time to test my tin plate 8 oz jars. It seemed like the best results i had with double ECO 0.75 until i saw many of my candles at my friends homes ended up with tunelling 😁. Although many people said me that candle is very good and burn all the way down. You can test your candle 4 hours every burn and repeat until its down but the problem is the people probably wont do it. I want to create a candle which is safe and will burn all the way down no matter how you burn it, is it even possible ?
Thanks.
This makes so much sense 😊.
Hi Kevin, I'm having trouble with one of my fragrances. Its top notes are being burned off. Should I reduce the percentage of fragrance oil or wick down? The problem is, this wick already barely reaches the edges of the glass (leaves 1mm around the sides) with that % of oil. Thanks in advance!
I'd for sure start with wicking down. That 1mm ledge might just take care of itself in later burns :)
é simples, é preciso um pavio mais grosso
I loved your video! Are you familiar with the square and the status jar from the dollar tree. If so what wick do you recommend for them?
Ahhh no, I'm not! However, wick selection typically revolves around two things: wax type and diameter. Then it's just a matter of testing it to see if it works.
Such a fantastic video.
Glad you enjoyed it
What about a double wicked candle? I’m using a 3.375 inch diameter jar with two cd4 wicks. No soot, no smoking, but it reaches a full melt pool in an hour. But the jar doesn’t get too hot at all. Feels similar to a coffee cup.
Do you think it's a good idea to add " Our candles are designed to reach full melt pool by the second or third burn" to listing descriptions? It's annoying that customers expect a full melt pool by first burn even though this usually means it's an over wicked candle.
Great advice!!!!!!!! So helpful!
I’m having some issues hoping for help. I use cd wicks. I am more than half way down. I have a tool to perfectly center my wicks but they bend. My candles have amazing hot throw but even at the bottom of my candle the side of the wick that the bend faces away from it doesn’t reach a full melt pool but the side the wick leans towards gets too hot. I don’t know how to fix this issue. I measured the temp at 179 degrees. Also I am struggling with where I should be measuring my temp. I always measure the rim at the top of the candle jar. The sides don’t really over 145 the top is where the heat it on my jars
Uhm ... i need Help! Do i need any additives to prevent frosting in my soy/ coconut blend?
Where and how would I check the container temp, how do I find out what the container can take and what it should be ?
Hi, Steven - I use an infrared thermometer to measure the sides of my container. Highly highly highly recommend. What can the container take? Generally speaking, we don't want the container sides to exceed about 140°-150°F (per ASTM 2417), but the container can probably take a much higher thermal load than that. Problem is, we just don't want to make candles that behave that way for a variety of reasons. Just talk to Kohls about their recall this year lol.
Do you just shine the IR thermometer at the outside of the glass? I’ve been trying this (clear glass) but the temps seem to vary wildly and some read lower than others, while they feel hotter to touch :(
There is so much conflicting info out there.. but this makes sense. Thanks.
I'm glad! 👍
I wanted to know why my fire is going dem in the candle?
Problem is, designer candles like diptique are designed to reach a full melt pool on the first burn. So customers use this as a standard. Customers find it satisfying when a candle has a 'pretty' burn rather than a messy one with a slight wall and reaching a full melt pool at the end of the burn.
Hey bro! I have a question. I test soy wax with 3 wicks. Wicks choking itself and I don't think they are too short. What can I do for this problem?
If "choking" means that it's self extinguishing I'd assume they are too small of a size. For instance, if you're using 3 ECO 2 wicks, you'd want to try with 3 ECO 4 wicks and test. Heavily recommend you replace the wicks in the candle so you don't have to wait or re-pour!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany thanks a lot! I thought maybe thinner wicks could be more esthetic. Now I felt that I made body shaming to wicks
Is it normal for melt pool time to decrease down the vessel/jar?
So when I light my candle, let it burn 4 hours straight while I attend to it
In the industry standard test for container candles, you burn it 4 hours at a time. Check it once per hour, and record the flame height at least once every 4 hours. There's other stuff too, but that's the heart of it, yeah!
I've learned new things, thank u so much :)
It's my pleasure!
@@ArmatageCandleCompany Btw, I have one doubt. Could you help me? I make candles in little crystal containers (45x45 mm) and I use tealight wicks cause this is the littlest ones I can find. The surface is melted within half an hour, with a melt pool of 5mm. I think I shouldn't sell this kind of candles because I dont think people like to light them for only half and hour o 1 hour. Besides, the glass reaches a high temperature within that little time. Don't know what to do...
My opinion - let your customers be the ones that tell you no. I'd try to sell them and let the market tell you it's not a good idea. If you never try, you'll never know! Tealight-sized candles have a market too, I think you'd be surprised.
@@ArmatageCandleCompany Good morning (or night), Kevin! Thank u so much! As always, you are a great help. I think you're right. I hadn't seen it that way, letting the costumer to try the product. I must to go on and see what happen. Thank u again and have a great day!
The dontcha know made me giggle.
Subscribed☝️
List? I don’t see a list
Hi I'm making candles scared that I don't know where to start got soy wax I started kit
Make the kit and see how it goes! I wouldn't stress too much about the first few, just get a few rounds of candle making under your belt to see how you like it!
Ok.. Burn time is important.. But I'm a freak i guess.. I want to make a 14 wick candle in either a large stock pot or crock to achieve a off the top equivalent to 5000 btu going by roughly 352btu that a individual flame makes.. How large can i go and what would be the best wick arrangement? If its 7.. I'll make 2
I'm just going to watch from afar on this one lol
@@ArmatageCandleCompany ok....😞...lol
Awesome video. So many disinformation out there causing safety issues!
Thanks! I couldn't agree more!
No talk much how show video wicks melt fell down issue
I’m not sure what you’re saying