This is the most clean and best video I have seen on a 6.7 Cummins engine. Well spoken and explained, super clear shots, and thorough. I only wish you had a plethora of other more informational information videos on engine, exhaust, transmission, etc. Excellent video through. Thank you.
Thank You! I have a 2015 2500 and will be seriously considering doing this preventative upgrade myself. I should have gone to Diesel mechanic school instead of Cosmetology, lmao
If I could make a suggestion, increase the length of the fuel rail standoffs by 0.050" and put counter bore holes on the cover where they belong at 0.050" deep. That would keep them in place while your fuel rail is installed.
Been there, done that with my '17. Don't be fooled for one moment. Those back injector lines are an absolute bitch to get to. A shit ton of work. And ya wanna know the truth? Removing the grid and installing a GDP intake yielded me no noticeable improvements. Yeah, it's cleaner and looks cool, but that's about it. But hey, don't take my word for it. LOL. Anyway, great video. Thanks!
You should see an increase in throttle response and MPG's by .5-1 as well as a drop in EGT's by 50-100F - even better results when combined with an intake manifold. Scroll down and check out reviews here to 'hear' it for yourself - www.pusherintakes.com/Pusher-Heater-Grid-Delete-Cummins-p/pdc0718hgd.htm
Is there anything you specifically need to do after putting the fuel rail and lines back? Do you need to crank the truck for a bit until the fuel rails fill, anything to try and prevent air in the lines, etc.?
It doesn’t lol. If you need a heater still, I think the banks setup includes it, but it’s basically the same setup as a later model 7.3 powerstroke intake heater. I’ve seen the ones from banks and they look exactly like the one I took off my buddy’s 7.3 to install a boost gauge in it’s place. The one that looks like a little coil. You can probably go get one at an autozone or something and drill and tap your intake to install it, might need to do some wiring changes to make it work too.
If I order this and install will I get CELS’s? I hear some people have trouble with those. They have to disconnect the wire coming off the grid to the battery and solenoid. Need info as I need to delete my grid heater asap
Here’s a tip, turn key on straight to the start position immediately and it won’t set the code. Although I don’t recommend removing the heater to begin with.
@@871jamie what about adding a BD-Power X-Flow Air Intake Heater Kit For 2007.5-2018 Ram 2500/3500 6.7L Cummins to the air horn? Or two should it be a lot less restricting?
I see the comment about turning the key on straight to the start position which does work but trucks like mine that have remote start will through a code and shut the truck down when the temp is below 45...how can this be remedied?
I disconnected the grid heater power wire from the relay just below the right/passenger side battery. I get in and crank it up and haven't had a code. On the few days of cold I do get, I just plug in.
I have a 2015 6.7 Cummins. Why would you want to pull the grid heater? What does that do for the truck? Don’t you want that during your cold weather ops?
Find your answer yet? Grid heater can ark when not grounded properly and drops a bolt into the intake so your engine chomps it. It also uses alot of amperage to run it. But yes a grid heater is a really good thing in the cold. I know some guys just run a air dog with fuel heater and it's a better combo then an intake heater. Plus air flow is greatly increased with the delete that's the main reason
I've read that the Cummins motor in light pickups is the only application that uses a grid heater. Heavy equipment does not. FYI, I've started my truck with the block heater plugged in at -10 degrees. Yeah, it hated life for about a minute or two. Lots of smoke. But it cleaned up and ran perfectly when given a few minutes.
Do you need any kinda of pipe dope or anything on the bolts holding the grid heater plate down to seal them? Are those bolt holes in the block all the way through?
I am a believer in your products and will buy a setup soon. I was wondering between the 3.5 and the 3" intake for 99 ram cummins. Removed muffler and silencer ring, 75 injectors and fass lift pump. About to do cold air and one day buy the bd super bee turbo. I'm thinking the 3.5" would be bad for my setup because I wouldn't be pushing enough power. Is this correct or is bigger better?
Hey Robert - bigger is generally better. In your case especially - the 2nd gen Ram trucks OEM intercooler is already setup with 3.5" inlet/outlet so you can take full advantage of the 3.5" charge plumbing. Also if you're considering a charger upgrade and your factory unit is in good shape I would highly recommend considering our Low Mount Compound System which utilizes the factory charger. It's great for your fuel economy and if you tow at all it'll make a big difference. No single charger can touch the performance gains that two chargers working together can offer. Please let us know if you have any other questions - either here, via email (orders@pusherintakes.com) or call us at 772.589.8385. Thanks!
Looking for some insight I want to keep a grid heater I live in the north could I weld a bung on the intake horn and run a universal grid heater and ditch the stock one ?
We offer the manifold with a removable heater coil - just a little behind in launching it publicly. You can give us a call to order today. 772-212-9290
18 ft/lb on the torque - but you'll want to pay attention to how tight they are when you take them off and try and replicate that. It's very difficult to get a torque wrench to the majority of the lines.
I am deleting the grid heater on my 6.7 Cummins and I have a dual horn intake just like what is installed on this truck. I must have an intake heater where I live. I have a BD Diesel intake heater, which is just a factory Duramax intake heater. Anybody know where to install the heater since there are two intake horns and only one heater? I was thinking about installing it before the horn splits, but that is awful far from the engine.
I disconnected the grid heater power wire from the relay just below the right/ passenger side battery. No light, I just crank it up instead of waiting. On the few cold days that do hit my area I just plug it up.
Homer Garcia on my 2010 you just turn the ignition on, let the fuel pump work, turn ignition off, then repeat that 3 or 4 times then crank it up. While u have the ignition on, look for leaks, also when the engines comes on.
I cracked open the fuel line going to fuel injector tube on cylinder 1 and 3 had someone turn the truck over till fuel came out then reconnected and started after the 2nd crank. I didn’t crank it more than 15 seconds during this process I don’t know if that matters but it’s just what I’ve always done.
Hi Emil, yes, this is best for warm climate customers. However, we offer our intake manifold for the 6.7L Cummins with removable Heater Coils to replace the heater grid functionality, so you can get the airflow gains from the plate but retain the heater functionality during the cold months. If that's something you're interested in just give us a call! 772.212.9290
I was going to ask about the different bolt lengths required with your piece, until I saw the "stand-offs" being added for the fuel rail. It would be nice if they came attached to the plate, and I'd be tempted to get them to stay in place with a little JB Weld prior to assembly. Looks great, I may be in line to put this setup on a work truck.
The stand-offs are separate to keep the cost lower; to have them machined to the plate would greatly drive up the length of time it would take to machine the product (and therefore would drive the cost up significantly as well). That being said we wouldn't choose cost saving routes like that if they were problematic. We've never had an issue with them being separate during install, nor have we afterward for product durability. It'll be an awesome setup for your work truck. 👍
Your idea to use a dab of JB Weld or any superglue product is a good one. Also, a dab on the bottom side to hold the gasket in place is an old mechanic's trick. (instead of placing the gasket on the block and letting it slide around)
For a key start truck, just start prior to the 'wait to start' light to go out. For push to start / remote start trucks, this code would need to be programmed out.
You can expect a 50-100 degree F drop in EGTs and about a .25-.5 mpg increase in fuel economy. You'll also see a significant gain in throttle response and faster turbo spool. All happy things. 😎 We're in Vero Beach, Florida.
We generally remove it from the loom entirely. However, if the customer thinks they might reinstall the heater grid at some point we just remove it from the power solenoid (but this is generally only on the 5.9L trucks).
Same truck, as mentioned at the end we paired this install with several more upgrades which weren't featured in the video. Our full Mega Intake System + our High Mount Compound Turbo System. Effectively left the shop feeling like an all new truck 😎
They do need to be tight - torque specs are the 22 ft-lb at the feed tube and 27 ft-lb at the rail. Give that a try; if you're still having issues give us a call after at 772.589.8385.
This is a great video. I really enjoyed watching it although I’d most likely hire it done. I believe in using well trained professionals who have had years of experience. Keep up the good work.
@@Hazie345 Good deal - For anyone else wondering, the CEL will only turn on if your ECM commands the heater circuit to activate (due to low ambient temp), but then doesn't see the voltage drop that the heater would normally cause when activated. In warm climates or warmer months, the CEL will not come on. If you have custom tuning, that feature can be turned off so it's never an issue.
This is an off-road use product; you'll need to read your warranty manual for exact clarification but in most cases, off-road race components are not covered under the vehicle warranty.
Start at cylinder 1, work your way back to cylinder 6, just un-bolting as you go. Reverse on the way back. These video guides are just supplemental to our full written instructions. Thanks!
This product can be installed without tuning. Although if it's cold enough and your ECM commands the heater grid power circuit and doesn't see a voltage drop from that circuit it will throw a "soft" CEL. That CEL will go way after a few key cycles.
@@pusherintakes Yea, I'm in Michigan. the work truck stays inside overnight almost always, but on trips it stays out overnight. Getting a code for a high read on the heater now, something is up.
@@125AXer If you're getting a code for high voltage that usually means the heater is not actually turning on (pulling current and reducing voltage in that circuit). Also we've heard from a few northern Canadian customers who've had the heater bolt back out and fall into the plenum. I'd check into that as well.
@@125AXer If you're getting a code for high voltage that usually means the heater is not actually turning on (pulling current and reducing voltage in that circuit). Also we've heard from a few northern Canadian customers who've had the heater bolt back out and fall into the plenum. I'd check into that as well.
@@pusherintakes First time I got to the shop, I got a footstool and climbed up to perform the "jiggle test" on the connector bolt to the intake heater. Tight, no play at all. A local shop which my boss likes to use has recommended replacing the intake/heater unit to solve the problem, but I am not convinced that will take care of it, or that it is the best solution.
Unfortunately that video isn't in the works yet, but its on the (very long!) list to get done. In the meantime if you'd like to see instructions for the install, email us at orders@pusherintakes.com and we'll send you a PDF copy.
Cummins put that heater there for a reason. Cummins does not have glow plugs it uses the heater grid to start the truck. Last winter in Texas my truck would not have started in the extremely low temps we had without it!
I’ll give everyone this advice, if you are going to do any deletes or mods, keep all the parts of you think you’ll ever trade the truck. Otherwise you’ll lose thousands on the trade in. I don’t keep mine long enough to worry about mods usually.
Being I have a background in the auto industry….. if you’re going to modify your truck at all, keep the parts so you can put them back on if you ever decide to trade the vehicle. Otherwise you’ll lose thousands in trade in value. I usually don’t keep a vehicle long enough to justify the cost of mods so for the most part I leave them stock. Except for sports cars and motorcycles. J/s
Do you have a Cab and Chassis truck? They're different than the "normal" 2500/3500 trucks. You can give us a call for faster tech support - 772.212.9290
No, because the chassis cab MAP sensor is located on the heater grid itself. To get around that you could buy one of our manifolds for your chassis cab model and relocate that sensor onto it, and then you'd be free to run the heater grid delete. If you want to talk details about how that'd work, give us a ring at 772.589.8385 (or we are happy to reply here)
Probably the best how to video I've ever seen good job guys
This is the most clean and best video I have seen on a 6.7 Cummins engine. Well spoken and explained, super clear shots, and thorough. I only wish you had a plethora of other more informational information videos on engine, exhaust, transmission, etc. Excellent video through. Thank you.
Thank You! I have a 2015 2500 and will be seriously considering doing this preventative upgrade myself. I should have gone to Diesel mechanic school instead of Cosmetology, lmao
Thank you so much for this video, very informative. you have no idea how helpful this video has been
That's an awesome product no more restricted airflow
If I could make a suggestion, increase the length of the fuel rail standoffs by 0.050" and put counter bore holes on the cover where they belong at 0.050" deep. That would keep them in place while your fuel rail is installed.
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls God Bless Y'alls 🙌 ❤ 🙏
This looks like a great kid to prevent engine damage, but how does your kit prevent codes from the heater grid not coming on?
You just can't let the wait to start light to go off. There is nothing to warm up, just put key in and crank it.
Been there, done that with my '17. Don't be fooled for one moment. Those back injector lines are an absolute bitch to get to. A shit ton of work. And ya wanna know the truth? Removing the grid and installing a GDP intake yielded me no noticeable improvements. Yeah, it's cleaner and looks cool, but that's about it. But hey, don't take my word for it. LOL. Anyway, great video. Thanks!
Very nice video and product.
What should a customer expect as far as actual performance and mileage increase?
You should see an increase in throttle response and MPG's by .5-1 as well as a drop in EGT's by 50-100F - even better results when combined with an intake manifold. Scroll down and check out reviews here to 'hear' it for yourself - www.pusherintakes.com/Pusher-Heater-Grid-Delete-Cummins-p/pdc0718hgd.htm
You will feel no difference at all. But try it for yourself and see if I'm wrong.
Is there anything you specifically need to do after putting the fuel rail and lines back? Do you need to crank the truck for a bit until the fuel rails fill, anything to try and prevent air in the lines, etc.?
How does this compete with the monster ram from banks?
It definitely doesn't. No way these guys have enough research and experience to beat Gale Banks
Hype. You will see no noticeable difference except your wallet will be substantially lighter. I'll give Banks credit, he's a heluva salesman.
Great video!
Thank you
Can you delete the solenoid for this aswell cause I know those things can cause a fire?
Indeed you can. No change to my tunes.
Fantastic video! Thx! 👍
Will a check engine light pop up because of the delete?
You forgot to mention the heater nut how it falls off on the factory grid design.
I hope ram gets sued
I noticed you guys deleted the crankcase filter as well any error codes for doing the delete????
So what replaces the cold start heat grid component ? If you delete the heat grid, how does the cold start system work ?
It doesn’t lol. If you need a heater still, I think the banks setup includes it, but it’s basically the same setup as a later model 7.3 powerstroke intake heater. I’ve seen the ones from banks and they look exactly like the one I took off my buddy’s 7.3 to install a boost gauge in it’s place. The one that looks like a little coil. You can probably go get one at an autozone or something and drill and tap your intake to install it, might need to do some wiring changes to make it work too.
If I order this and install will I get CELS’s? I hear some people have trouble with those. They have to disconnect the wire coming off the grid to the battery and solenoid. Need info as I need to delete my grid heater asap
Do you have to delete anything else for this mod? I want to do this on a bone stock truck
Wish you guys hAd a exhaust manifold 2 piece for a 17, id get it to match all my other pusher parts
What do u do about the grid heater relay and the code that it throws?
Here’s a tip, turn key on straight to the start position immediately and it won’t set the code. Although I don’t recommend removing the heater to begin with.
@@871jamie what about adding a BD-Power X-Flow Air Intake Heater Kit For 2007.5-2018 Ram 2500/3500 6.7L Cummins to the air horn? Or two should it be a lot less restricting?
@@robbennett7593 honestly I’m not sure.
I see the comment about turning the key on straight to the start position which does work but trucks like mine that have remote start will through a code and shut the truck down when the temp is below 45...how can this be remedied?
I disconnected the grid heater power wire from the relay just below the right/passenger side battery. I get in and crank it up and haven't had a code. On the few days of cold I do get, I just plug in.
Do you get any error codes doing the delete??
I have a 2015 6.7 Cummins. Why would you want to pull the grid heater? What does that do for the truck? Don’t you want that during your cold weather ops?
Find your answer yet? Grid heater can ark when not grounded properly and drops a bolt into the intake so your engine chomps it. It also uses alot of amperage to run it. But yes a grid heater is a really good thing in the cold. I know some guys just run a air dog with fuel heater and it's a better combo then an intake heater. Plus air flow is greatly increased with the delete that's the main reason
@@danthisguy8541 as
I've read that the Cummins motor in light pickups is the only application that uses a grid heater. Heavy equipment does not. FYI, I've started my truck with the block heater plugged in at -10 degrees. Yeah, it hated life for about a minute or two. Lots of smoke. But it cleaned up and ran perfectly when given a few minutes.
Do you need any kinda of pipe dope or anything on the bolts holding the grid heater plate down to seal them? Are those bolt holes in the block all the way through?
Pipe Dope 😂😂😂. You a oil field guy?
I have spent some time in the oilfields yes.. But thread sealant just doesn't have the same ring to it does it. Lol
if you delete the heater grid, will the check engine come on?
I am a believer in your products and will buy a setup soon. I was wondering between the 3.5 and the 3" intake for 99 ram cummins. Removed muffler and silencer ring, 75 injectors and fass lift pump. About to do cold air and one day buy the bd super bee turbo. I'm thinking the 3.5" would be bad for my setup because I wouldn't be pushing enough power. Is this correct or is bigger better?
Hey Robert - bigger is generally better. In your case especially - the 2nd gen Ram trucks OEM intercooler is already setup with 3.5" inlet/outlet so you can take full advantage of the 3.5" charge plumbing. Also if you're considering a charger upgrade and your factory unit is in good shape I would highly recommend considering our Low Mount Compound System which utilizes the factory charger. It's great for your fuel economy and if you tow at all it'll make a big difference. No single charger can touch the performance gains that two chargers working together can offer. Please let us know if you have any other questions - either here, via email (orders@pusherintakes.com) or call us at 772.589.8385. Thanks!
Looking for some insight I want to keep a grid heater I live in the north could I weld a bung on the intake horn and run a universal grid heater and ditch the stock one ?
We offer the manifold with a removable heater coil - just a little behind in launching it publicly. You can give us a call to order today. 772-212-9290
No torque specs or what you used to torque the injector lines back down?
18 ft/lb on the torque - but you'll want to pay attention to how tight they are when you take them off and try and replicate that. It's very difficult to get a torque wrench to the majority of the lines.
do I get the kit with the egr if my truck is deleted?
Is there enough room to put studs in three or four of the holes to keep the gasket from moving around? Just curious.
Yes, check out 8:44 - you'll be able to put a few in and it'll secure the gasket.
Hold up… Mine didn’t have those fuel rail standoffs when I took it off
Will this create a trouble code?
If the temperature is low enough to command the heater grid, yes, it will, unless tuned otherwise.
10 below, no trouble codes for me. No change in tunes. Just be sure to plug your block heater in. LOL.
Will this work on a deleted 2021 6.7
I am deleting the grid heater on my 6.7 Cummins and I have a dual horn intake just like what is installed on this truck. I must have an intake heater where I live. I have a BD Diesel intake heater, which is just a factory Duramax intake heater. Anybody know where to install the heater since there are two intake horns and only one heater? I was thinking about installing it before the horn splits, but that is awful far from the engine.
How do you get the codes from coming up for the check engine light
I disconnected the grid heater power wire from the relay just below the right/ passenger side battery. No light, I just crank it up instead of waiting. On the few cold days that do hit my area I just plug it up.
How would this delet affect me in ks Winters?
Will a mini maxx tuner keep this from throwing a code to keep light off?
Most likely, you may have to custom tune the light off with your Mini Maxx
so how do you start it on cold mornings
the grid heater just melted off and destroyed my engine and ram won't warranty it under power train since it was electrical
does this require a tuner or a delete in the tuner
no
How do you prime the fuel back? Just turning the key to the on position in like 10 second intervals?
Homer Garcia on my 2010 you just turn the ignition on, let the fuel pump work, turn ignition off, then repeat that 3 or 4 times then crank it up. While u have the ignition on, look for leaks, also when the engines comes on.
I cracked open the fuel line going to fuel injector tube on cylinder 1 and 3 had someone turn the truck over till fuel came out then reconnected and started after the 2nd crank. I didn’t crank it more than 15 seconds during this process I don’t know if that matters but it’s just what I’ve always done.
Do you release the pressure on the injectors ? Or you dont ? If you do how ? Thanks
There is no pressure in the system when the engine is turned off, so no action item there 😎
Doesn’t that make the diesel harder to start especially in Canada
Hi Emil, yes, this is best for warm climate customers. However, we offer our intake manifold for the 6.7L Cummins with removable Heater Coils to replace the heater grid functionality, so you can get the airflow gains from the plate but retain the heater functionality during the cold months. If that's something you're interested in just give us a call! 772.212.9290
I was going to ask about the different bolt lengths required with your piece, until I saw the "stand-offs" being added for the fuel rail. It would be nice if they came attached to the plate, and I'd be tempted to get them to stay in place with a little JB Weld prior to assembly. Looks great, I may be in line to put this setup on a work truck.
The stand-offs are separate to keep the cost lower; to have them machined to the plate would greatly drive up the length of time it would take to machine the product (and therefore would drive the cost up significantly as well). That being said we wouldn't choose cost saving routes like that if they were problematic. We've never had an issue with them being separate during install, nor have we afterward for product durability. It'll be an awesome setup for your work truck. 👍
Your idea to use a dab of JB Weld or any superglue product is a good one.
Also, a dab on the bottom side to hold the gasket in place is an old mechanic's trick.
(instead of placing the gasket on the block and letting it slide around)
Finally, people who sale something and show you in detail how to put it on!
good thx but how to get rid of dtc code? Battary sensor will ask for 200 amp anyways during the cold start/.....
For a key start truck, just start prior to the 'wait to start' light to go out. For push to start / remote start trucks, this code would need to be programmed out.
Does it throw a cel when the ecm doesn’t sense the heater in cold weather
Yes, if you have no form of heater the ECM will turn on your CEL until it's warm enough outside to not need the heater.
Does it increase fuel mileage. Where are you located.
You can expect a 50-100 degree F drop in EGTs and about a .25-.5 mpg increase in fuel economy. You'll also see a significant gain in throttle response and faster turbo spool. All happy things. 😎 We're in Vero Beach, Florida.
What lift is that
what should I do with the wire that goes to the heater grid it self ??
We generally remove it from the loom entirely. However, if the customer thinks they might reinstall the heater grid at some point we just remove it from the power solenoid (but this is generally only on the 5.9L trucks).
@@pusherintakes thanks again for ur help
You should do a video on the wire removal as well.
I just think is a different engine at the end of the video 😂 but great information
Same truck, as mentioned at the end we paired this install with several more upgrades which weren't featured in the video. Our full Mega Intake System + our High Mount Compound Turbo System. Effectively left the shop feeling like an all new truck 😎
Did this and I am having hell getting the fuel lines to not leak, do i just need to keep loosening and tightening till it seats correctly?
They do need to be tight - torque specs are the 22 ft-lb at the feed tube and 27 ft-lb at the rail. Give that a try; if you're still having issues give us a call after at 772.589.8385.
Does it throw a code in the winter when it doesn't sense resistance from the grid
Mine caused a code to come up for heater grid. How do I cheat the computer to thinking its still there?
Should have said the torque specs in the video
Do y’all have one for a 2021
What are the torque specs for the plate bolts
18 ft-lb
As a man from the upper Midwest. wtf? Lol. Didn't know this was actually a thing
is there a reason you left the foam out?
Because it's an absolute bitch to reinstall.
Is there any mpg improvement ?
Negative ghost rider.
About how long did this take to install?
About 2-4 hours, depending on your experience level.
@@pusherintakes awesome thanks
Hi, is this grid heater set up the same on a 2019 6.7 HO?
This is a great video. I really enjoyed watching it although I’d most likely hire it done. I believe in using well trained professionals who have had years of experience. Keep up the good work.
What size socket is the air intake sensor?
1"
do you guys offer this setup for the 5th gen?
Yes, check it out here: pusherintakes.com/pusher-heater-grid-replacement-for-2007-5-2022-dodge-cummins-2500-3500/
Did the check engine light come on after that delete?
Never Mind I just read the specks on your page 👍🏼
@@Hazie345 Good deal - For anyone else wondering, the CEL will only turn on if your ECM commands the heater circuit to activate (due to low ambient temp), but then doesn't see the voltage drop that the heater would normally cause when activated. In warm climates or warmer months, the CEL will not come on. If you have custom tuning, that feature can be turned off so it's never an issue.
Pusher Intakes thank you
does this mod void the oem warranty?
This is an off-road use product; you'll need to read your warranty manual for exact clarification but in most cases, off-road race components are not covered under the vehicle warranty.
You did not show how to take off rear lines or RAIL
Start at cylinder 1, work your way back to cylinder 6, just un-bolting as you go. Reverse on the way back. These video guides are just supplemental to our full written instructions. Thanks!
Do you have to install a tune for this or it would work for oem truck?
This product can be installed without tuning. Although if it's cold enough and your ECM commands the heater grid power circuit and doesn't see a voltage drop from that circuit it will throw a "soft" CEL. That CEL will go way after a few key cycles.
@@pusherintakes Yea, I'm in Michigan. the work truck stays inside overnight almost always, but on trips it stays out overnight. Getting a code for a high read on the heater now, something is up.
@@125AXer If you're getting a code for high voltage that usually means the heater is not actually turning on (pulling current and reducing voltage in that circuit). Also we've heard from a few northern Canadian customers who've had the heater bolt back out and fall into the plenum. I'd check into that as well.
@@125AXer If you're getting a code for high voltage that usually means the heater is not actually turning on (pulling current and reducing voltage in that circuit). Also we've heard from a few northern Canadian customers who've had the heater bolt back out and fall into the plenum. I'd check into that as well.
@@pusherintakes First time I got to the shop, I got a footstool and climbed up to perform the "jiggle test" on the connector bolt to the intake heater. Tight, no play at all. A local shop which my boss likes to use has recommended replacing the intake/heater unit to solve the problem, but I am not convinced that will take care of it, or that it is the best solution.
I want to see a install of 1998.5-2002 3.5” mega intake system with the Cross-Air system
Unfortunately that video isn't in the works yet, but its on the (very long!) list to get done. In the meantime if you'd like to see instructions for the install, email us at orders@pusherintakes.com and we'll send you a PDF copy.
I will email you for the instructions.
Thank you.
How do you change the crank case filter on a2016 ram
😂😂😂
Cummins put that heater there for a reason. Cummins does not have glow plugs it uses the heater grid to start the truck. Last winter in Texas my truck would not have started in the extremely low temps we had without it!
Money starts every time I live in Ohio ,colder than you
Not sure it is that necessary, my 2011 3500 heater grid is no longer wired and started just fine during the ice storm in TX.
@@matone184 we had sub zero temps during the time I was refuting to.
@@jshlds46 mine didn’t want to start during the ice storm. It took it a while. J/s
I’ll give everyone this advice, if you are going to do any deletes or mods, keep all the parts of you think you’ll ever trade the truck. Otherwise you’ll lose thousands on the trade in. I don’t keep mine long enough to worry about mods usually.
Dang y’all did a lot more than a grid heater delete lol 2nd gen turbo swap and ccv breather
Being I have a background in the auto industry….. if you’re going to modify your truck at all, keep the parts so you can put them back on if you ever decide to trade the vehicle. Otherwise you’ll lose thousands in trade in value. I usually don’t keep a vehicle long enough to justify the cost of mods so for the most part I leave them stock. Except for sports cars and motorcycles. J/s
Air intake temperature sensor is not like that on my truck.. it's off to the side do ypu have a adapter
Do you have a Cab and Chassis truck? They're different than the "normal" 2500/3500 trucks. You can give us a call for faster tech support - 772.212.9290
I had that bolt come off went into #6 cylinder took out the piston and the cylinder bad design from dodge its happening on alot of trucks sucks
That's the worst
This is useless until you come up with a plan for the grid heater circuit. Uhhhh yah its gonna set a CEL. Unless you live in Florida
Do you see that this truck was deleted? Yeah, it won’t throw a check engine light in their case
wish they didn’t skip any and recorded all the way through
This truck looks like a 2013... Y-hose is a clue
Remove the whole fuel rail and injector lines… thanks but no thanks.
Does this fit the chassis cab models?
No, because the chassis cab MAP sensor is located on the heater grid itself. To get around that you could buy one of our manifolds for your chassis cab model and relocate that sensor onto it, and then you'd be free to run the heater grid delete. If you want to talk details about how that'd work, give us a ring at 772.589.8385 (or we are happy to reply here)