Yeah you’re right we don’t use salt on the roads in Northwest Oregon. I live in Oregon also, I live in Albany Oregon, and I decided to take the time and spray a little epoxy primer on the outside of my Tail light housings and I resealed them again real good I wanted to make sure I didn’t have to go in and rebuild my lights again. Also, I purchased brand new pigtail wiring from Pelican parts to make sure my lights works good. Hope to see you around sometime, cruising the back roads of Oregon in your Targa. I have a salmon metallic 1974, 911.
Again, should have done that. I just rebuilt another set for my coupe and they were in much better shape, almost like they had been rebuilt before. My coupe is also a 74. Those were great first years for the g-body. Thanks for watching and commenting something very useful.
Hey, you had a great video. the idea about putting the solder on the side of the metal part of the bulb housing so it stays in better ground. I’m really surprised when you had the light housing halves taken apart you didn’t use a wire brush and clean off the outside metal and then spray it with protective paint to keep the light housing protected on the outside. I sprayed mine down with epoxy primer and then I added extra. Catalyzed clear coat For extra protection.
I live in northwest Oregon and we don't use any salt on the roads. Corrosion isn't much of an issue. Probably should have done something with the exterior of the housings, I was trying to get this together quickly. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Only missing part: re-installing the tail light housings! The captive nuts are (reportedly) a huge pain, especially because the originals are subject to all the same corrosive forces (aka: the rear wheels kicking up water/grime/debris). Did you have any issues re-installing them? How did you get the captive nuts to hold without going in from underneath?
I had to purchase new 'speed nuts' for that and used the original bolts. I had the bumper off and lower quarters off when I put these back in as I was pulling the engine for a reseal. I have taken them out since (oil tank leak) and didn't have any problem locating the threads. Thanks for watching!
At about the 8:00 mark… Does the outside part of the bulb housing (that you added solder to) complete the electrical circuit? I thought it was just the pins. Reason I’m asking is I have wobbly bulbs that flicker as well… my idea was to add a little electrical tape the same way you added solder to try to do the same fix…
The round metal part of the bulb is the ground. This is what typically loses conductivity. If you have connection issues with the + leads, you can bend those upward to make good contact. The round metal part of the bulb must have a good ground. That bulb grease works well for keeping corrosion at bay. Thanks for watching.
@@afternoongarage thanks! Ya I found out about the ground through further research (can I tell you I’m a greenhorn any other way)… I took some high grit sand paper to my bulb housing to clean it up as it seamed like it was corrosion… and so far it turns out that that worked!!! That particular tail light hasn’t had the best seal as there was dirt in the housing after removing the lens… I cleaned it all up and put it back together, over the winter I’ll try new foam gaskets like you did to make it seal better long term.
I’m completely knew to this stuff and inherited a 1977 911 S 3-4 years ago from my dad, it had been sitting in a barn or garage for at least 20 years… in the last year I’ve got it running and just basic stuff to bring it back to life. Just today I discovered that I literally have no bushings left at all in my shift linkage lol. One thing at a time is what I keep telling myself lol.
I have a large bin of various weatherstrip that I use to build my replica cars. The rubber I used here was, "Rubber Edge Trim, 1/16" U Channel Edge Trim" and can be found on Amazon.
That stuff is great. I use it wherever I have an unfinished cut metal edge. I have a Delorean and it is full of sharp stainless 'knives' on the body panels. I use contact adhesive and took care of a lot of sharp unfinished edges on this car with that trim. Good luck and thanks for watching!
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Thank you from Los Angeles
Yeah you’re right we don’t use salt on the roads in Northwest Oregon. I live in Oregon also, I live in Albany Oregon, and I decided to take the time and spray a little epoxy primer on the outside of my Tail light housings and I resealed them again real good I wanted to make sure I didn’t have to go in and rebuild my lights again. Also, I purchased brand new pigtail wiring from Pelican parts to make sure my lights works good. Hope to see you around sometime, cruising the back roads of Oregon in your Targa. I have a salmon metallic 1974, 911.
Again, should have done that. I just rebuilt another set for my coupe and they were in much better shape, almost like they had been rebuilt before. My coupe is also a 74. Those were great first years for the g-body. Thanks for watching and commenting something very useful.
Hey, you had a great video. the idea about putting the solder on the side of the metal part of the bulb housing so it stays in better ground.
I’m really surprised when you had the light housing halves taken apart you didn’t use a wire brush and clean off the outside metal and then spray it with protective paint to keep the light housing protected on the outside. I sprayed mine down with epoxy primer and then I added extra. Catalyzed clear coat For extra protection.
I live in northwest Oregon and we don't use any salt on the roads. Corrosion isn't much of an issue. Probably should have done something with the exterior of the housings, I was trying to get this together quickly. Thanks for watching.
This guy really knows his stuff ! ! ! How did he get all this great knowledge? Great content. Good instructional information THE BEST ! !
You are a silly person, Katie. In looking at your channel, looks like YOU have some real talent with your buttons! Thank you for watching!
Great video! Only missing part: re-installing the tail light housings! The captive nuts are (reportedly) a huge pain, especially because the originals are subject to all the same corrosive forces (aka: the rear wheels kicking up water/grime/debris).
Did you have any issues re-installing them? How did you get the captive nuts to hold without going in from underneath?
I had to purchase new 'speed nuts' for that and used the original bolts. I had the bumper off and lower quarters off when I put these back in as I was pulling the engine for a reseal. I have taken them out since (oil tank leak) and didn't have any problem locating the threads. Thanks for watching!
At about the 8:00 mark…
Does the outside part of the bulb housing (that you added solder to) complete the electrical circuit? I thought it was just the pins. Reason I’m asking is I have wobbly bulbs that flicker as well… my idea was to add a little electrical tape the same way you added solder to try to do the same fix…
The round metal part of the bulb is the ground. This is what typically loses conductivity. If you have connection issues with the + leads, you can bend those upward to make good contact. The round metal part of the bulb must have a good ground. That bulb grease works well for keeping corrosion at bay. Thanks for watching.
@@afternoongarage thanks! Ya I found out about the ground through further research (can I tell you I’m a greenhorn any other way)… I took some high grit sand paper to my bulb housing to clean it up as it seamed like it was corrosion… and so far it turns out that that worked!!! That particular tail light hasn’t had the best seal as there was dirt in the housing after removing the lens… I cleaned it all up and put it back together, over the winter I’ll try new foam gaskets like you did to make it seal better long term.
I’m completely knew to this stuff and inherited a 1977 911 S 3-4 years ago from my dad, it had been sitting in a barn or garage for at least 20 years… in the last year I’ve got it running and just basic stuff to bring it back to life. Just today I discovered that I literally have no bushings left at all in my shift linkage lol. One thing at a time is what I keep telling myself lol.
what seal or weather strip are you using to replace the divider gaskets? at 9:18?
I have a large bin of various weatherstrip that I use to build my replica cars. The rubber I used here was, "Rubber Edge Trim, 1/16" U Channel Edge Trim" and can be found on Amazon.
@@afternoongarage thank you! I appreciate the help on that!
That stuff is great. I use it wherever I have an unfinished cut metal edge. I have a Delorean and it is full of sharp stainless 'knives' on the body panels. I use contact adhesive and took care of a lot of sharp unfinished edges on this car with that trim. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@afternoongarage Thank you again! Didn't even think about it - was getting so much tunnel vision on finding the oem stuff that was originally thereI