Clough42, I would like to thank you for your efforts on the video you produced of the VFD installation on your lathe and the subsequent video of the drive RF noise mitigation methods you used, reference your videos from 4 years ago. I used the information from your drive RF noise mitigation method to great effect with an Automation Direct GS2 drive I installed on a bench top mill. This drive produced conducted as well as radiated RF noise into the AC and DC systems. This noise caused an IGgaying DRO to lose its position when the drive motor was running. I installed the same EMI filter on the drive input and ferrite toroid’s on the drive output to the motor as described in your noise reduction video. I have also installed a Teco 2 HP drive on a lathe project. Thank you for the detailed look into the drive manual. Very helpful.
You took the time needed to explain clearly how this setup works. Your camera shots show very clearly how you have wired up the VDF and Motor. A lot of time has been put into producing this excellent video. My thanks to you Sir!
Thank you very much for this superb video. The VFD in my Powermatic wood turning lathe died a few weeks ago and I was very apprehensive about replacing it. The replacement part from the manufacturer was $650. With your video, I bought the correct new VFD for $230 and successfully installed and programmed it myself.
I just saw this, 5 years after. I’ve replaced a number of motors with 3 phase inverter motors. After having used a number of different VFDs and motors, I’ve settled on these TECO/Westinghouse VFDs and their motors as well. I’ve found them to be easy to program, some are more confusing to those not experienced in this. The motors are made very well, and you know they work together. There are different types of VFD and different types of inverter motors. Make sure you get those designed to work together. Generally, an inverter motor is constant torque at and below the rated frequency, down to some specified frequency, and then constant power above that to the max frequency. So my 2 Hp motor, for example, is constant torque from 3 Hz to 60 Hz, and constant power from 60 Hz to 120 Hz. Be careful when setting adjustment compensation for constant torque. Don’t be tempted to go right to the highest level, which is usually +50%. Stay close to +20-30%. Your motor may overheat otherwise unless you have a high overload factor. At any rate, there’s a lot to this, many adjustments you don’t have to do. These VFDs have intimidating manuals for the uninitiated. I’m going now to the second video to see what he did. And, by the way, program the VFDs BEFORE attaching the motor, that’s a must. A beginners mistake.
Thanks James! My 602 is starting to make those clicky sounds in the motor and I've been wanting to go to variable speed anyhow. Appreciate the hard work you put into this and sharing it with everyone.
@@Clough42 Yeah I agree, great work, much like these machines need to be maintained properly so do we, otherwise we don't perform our best, both mentally and physically.
Thanks for your VFD videos. I purposely bought a Teco L510 because of your clear videos. I’m refurbishing an old Delta 3ph bandsaw and installing the VFD on the saw. The manual is tough to follow since this is my first time setting up a VFD. Your videos really helped. Thanks.
THE BEST EVER VIDEO I HAVE EVER WATCHED ANY WHERE........... I AM AN IDOT AND I CLEARLY UNDERSTOOD EVERY THING CLEARLY BRAVO SIR EXTREAMLY WELL DONE FAULTLESS PERFECT I CANT BELIVE I HAVE LEARNED SO MUCH I DIDNT KNOW ............ABOUT 3PH MOTORS AND VFD,S PROGRAMING AND WIRING
Great video thank you. never seen a label like that before. my connections as follows; 4-5-6-, 1-1-7, 2-2-8, 3-3-9. I wire in over 1000k motors in a year.
Well, I'm really late to the VFD on a G0602 party. But when I ran across James' videos, I knew I had to make the jump to a VFD. The way James breaks everything down is clear and concise. Excellent content James! I got everything ordered and made the conversion. It works perfectly as in the videos. My next step is the ELS conversion. I have most of the parts already, just waiting on the Texas Instrument developer board and the cogs from China. I can't wait to get rid of all those nasty gears. Well done James! Thanks for your excellent content! You earned a new subscriber!
@@The411 Actually, when I ordered mine. The company reached out to me to tell me that model was discontinued. The guy on the phone matched the specifications on RPM, size and base plate mount, etc. with the motor James listed in the conversion. It fit and worked just like it the videos. Just call the company you were ordering it from and ask them to match up the specs. I would tell you what my motor is, but I am out of town traveling until September. I will add this conversion is amazing if you have a G0602. It is pure joy to work with the lathe. Let me know if you need my motor number when I return home. Good luck!
@@SRED Thanks for the reply. Yes, my lathe is a G0602.I think I have info on a suitable motor a Marathon R313A it matches the specs very well. I was worried about a motor not being VFD capable, but apparently all motors in the last 10 yrs or so are all VFD capable, and the newer ones dont even mention it. Safe travels.
you are using a single phase to 3 phase vfd. when I watched some of your videos i had questions; I thought you were using a regular vfd but now makes sense .
Not only should proper shielded VFD motor cable be used but the shield should be properly grounded at both ends to form a closed loop essential for effective shielding for the magnetic interference from the motor current. Fully conductive EMC cable glands are purpose made in a range of sizes matched to the VFD cable and should be used to ground the shield to the motor terminal box. Plastic cable glands are unsuitable for shielded cable. Good quality VFDs have good solid cable clamping brackets for grounding the shield close to the VFD motor terminals.
Must is a strong word. It should be, but it would be hard to notice it at home. Noise becomes a problem when you have multiple drives running and your PLC's are trying to communicate.
Thanks for another great video- it looks like there are lots of people interested in VFDs for the home shop and I think you've made a terrific series covering the whole process. However regarding EMI- have you considered using a shielded cable? The motor line will act as a 16GHz antenna and is easily solved by using a shielded cable. There are plenty of 3 core + earth shielded cables and their matching shielded gland ends specifically made for VFD use which might work well for you. Keep up the great work!
The tradesmen that I worked with referred to what your calling a cable gland they called it a water dust proof strain relief I preferred to use the ones that are explosion proof any time needed even in my truck when I ran any wires through the firewall in my truck for a power inverter and the 110v and 12v to the back inside box and into the tool box where I had emergency lights and a cooler when needed .
They are called by a lot of different names, depending on the market. Automation Direct calls them Cable Glands. McMaster-Carr calls them Cord Grips. Lowe's calls them Cable Connector Conduit Fittings. Chinese import resellers usually use keyword soup, like Cord Grip Cable Glands for Electrical Box Waterproof Nylon Strain Relief.
@@Clough42 as a safety officer I brought it up that we had red seal journeyman electricians who did not know the terminologies for ele fittings because 100% of the training they had they never worked on a industrial site .it proved to be a problem we even he'd electrical engineers from China who was not recognized in Canada so some of them challenged the journeyman cert and some passed never once setting for on any job anywhere the oilsands capitalized on there knowledge.
Great video, I'm dealing with wiring mine up right now. Big issue I have is the wires coming from my 3 hp 3 phase motor are solid copper either 16 ga or 14 ga all the same color. It's a South Bend from 1960. Wire nuts keep coming loose when putting 12 ga stranded wire together with the solid, (2 solid & 1 stranded), I have considered soldering or maybe connectors but can't seem to find a large enough connectors to put all 3 together that will work on the terminals with the VFD. I guess it's what we all run into trying to modify our equipement. Thanks
I am mostly curious as to what improvement in the machine function can be realized by this fairly expensive upgrade. Grizzly says the machine has speeds from 150 to 2400 rpm. This seems to me a reasonable range for this type of lathe. What am I missing?
A VFD can run from low RPM to high with no gaps. The Grizzly without VFD has a belt you need to physically change pulleys, so you can only select 6 speeds. 150, 300, 560, 720, 1200 or 2400
On the VFD spec plate, I see that the AC Input is 19 Amps. Have you ever checked the actual VFD input current draw? Is the VFD on a separate circuit? Thanks.
Thank you for the good video. Please explain is the low voltage connection at time 16:16 in a delta or star configuration? It's confusing as I've never heard of a 9 lead motor before . New electrical student haha...
I think it's star-wired. Three of the coils are already connected in a star configuration inside the motor, and you either connect the other three coils in another star wired in parallel with the first (low voltage) or you attach them in series with the coils in the hard-wired star (high voltage).
My lathe and mill already have 220-3ph motors.So I can just add a VFD,and run them on 110-115?I had a rotary conv. at my other home,but didn't install it here yet,and looking forward to not having to if this works..
Thanks for going into so much detail on this whole process. I've just completed the same job on my G0602, using the referenced VFD and motor. Thanks to your efforts, it was an easy job. Did you ever try running the VFD auto tuning procedure?
I have a 110 v sanding floor machine that I wish to convert to run on both 1110 and 240 do you know where I could find instructions to do this, please?
Thanjj jy s for sharing. I am also learning more about VFD’s and electrical motors. I have a VFD on my lathe because I don’t have 3 phase power and the lathe has s 3 phase motor. Now, I am doing some research after the fact because I am building a machine for a client. I see that everyone now is using SHIELDED wire between the VFD and the motor as they say it can damage thd motor, the motor bearings… as well as the cable ( Ozone that eats PVC! ) What is your thoughts about this as I see you did not mention shielded wire in your setup…
James, Other than cost, any reason why you didn't with a 2hp VFD? In general, I have always over-spec'd things like this, but thought I would ask if there was any downside to using a higher HP rated VFD on a lower HP rated motor? Thanks in advance for any input John
The VFD would need to be configured to only output 1hp to the motor so there would be no real advantage. Plus a 2hp VFD wouldn't be available for a 110v input.
I'm going to do the same conversion as you. The motor you have linked to is no longer available. You mention the different RPM motors. What would be the downside to using the 3600 RPM?
Is the LEESON C80T17FZ54A (cat # 192241.00) going to work? The difference I see is it states on the plate it is a PMW but doesn’t say VFD. Also, under the cover it has 9 wires, but only 6 studs and no metal jumpers. Not sure if this is just the newer version of your motor. The specs plate is nearly identical otherwise... thanks man!
Hello, James You mentioned about Hi voltage and Lo voltage, does it mean that Hi voltage is for direct wiring with three phase electrical system if you have it in your building? Please answer. Thanks.
The direction, speed, and fan wiring are low voltage (10-12VDC). The mains input and motor wiring are high voltage AC. In this case, the contactor start and e-stop wiring are also high (mains) voltage.
AmericanOkie - I see that this post is old, but if it still matters, the answer to your question is “No”. The Hi and Lo voltage on the motor diagrams refers to the two
(Continuing)...working voltages the motor was designed to run on, either 230 or 480. They are both three phase. Both of those voltages are commonly available in industrial buildings with three phase supply. Some TECO VFD’s are available with 480 volt output, but the one in this video has only 230 volt output, and that’s why James changed from Hi (the 480 volt setting) to Lo (the 230 volt setting).
@@Clough42 thanks I was just figuring on going with 220v but I'll just go 110v and not have to worry about adding more outlets. Thank you for answering back! Greatly appreciated!
Hi James, What size is the cable gland you used for the motor and where did you get it? I'm assuming it's metric 16mm? I've been planning this upgrade for a while and already had the Leeson motor and Teco 510 VFD, but I did by the line filter, pots and Ferite rings through your affiliate links. My motor also had the 6 posts like another viewer mentioned. It was more of a PITA to wire than yours, but I think I've got it. Any info regarding the cable gland will be appreciated. Jody
If wiring the motor directly to a wall plugin, do I just leave the negative terminal empty and splice the 3 hot wires together? Thanks for the great video.
thanks for the vids . Does the groundwire for power cable in VFD shorts the ground for motor cables ?i have this VFD named invt from gooddrive company , it does not have a grounded terminal for power cable but it has a terminal for motor cable. shall i just connect to that terminal. appreciate any help .
At 22:28, talking about the 4.3A max out corresponding to 19A at 100V in...does that imply that the VFD efficiency in that case would be about (3^.5)*4.3A*240V/(19A*100V) = 1787W/1900W = ~94%? just dividing power out (using square root of three and assuming a power factor of 1, based on sciencing.com/how-6521700-calculate-3-phase-power.html) by power in.
I just have the specifications in the manual to go by, and I don't think they specify efficiency numbers or explain how anything is calculated. The motor power rating table in the manual says the input is "1ph 100-120V +10%-15% 50/60Hz". I don't know if they're figuring 100V - 15% as the worst case. If they are, the efficiency would be higher than what you're calculating, but I don't know.
nice job. I suspect that you will wish you did something a bit bigger. I've done a few and found that 2 hp is a lot nicer. Able to run at a much lower speed without stalling out. 3 phase IS better at low speeds but when you have reduced the speed using the VFD by say 4 times, then the relevant hp would be about 1/4 hp. Ok, but not great. If you cut that in half again, 1/8 hp is not enough, at least for me
Fantastic videos. Very Informative. Now that you have had that set up are you still happy with it? I have the same lathe and Co sidering the same upgrade.
Hello, Can you kindly guide me that from any VFD which has output of 3-Phase 220V, can we handle speed control of 30V 6KW 3-Phase AC Motor with full torque?
Hi James, Any chance you could give the dimensions of that motor, (diameter and length), I have A HF 8 x 20 and I’d like see if it would fit onto my lath? Thanks
As mentioned, it's a D80 frame motor. There's a drawing from Leeson here: www.electricmotorwholesale.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.download&fileId=276008
I watch a lot of your videos, you do a great job explaining how, why... But, you really need a better crimper!!!! Second, any of the SO, SJ, SJO cords should be fine, you did not list what gauge you are running on 3 phase, I assume, 14-16 since it rated at >4amp. great job!
This is not necessary. A common mode choke will block the common mode energy that can capacitively couple to the rising assembly and flow through the bearings.
@@Clough42 I must admit I didn't saw the whole video, just hear the squeaking sound and you said it was not the main spindle, so my conclusion was the motor bearings. You are right the common mode choke will help, due to smoothing the sine wave. Even though the magnetic field lines in an AC motor, which has to produce its own magnetic field based on a chopped squarewave approx to sinusoidal wave give induction currents in the bearings. Maybe the size of AC motor you have the effect is not significant but you will see the problem on large AC motors driven by VFD.
There are links in the description to the parts I used, though I don't know where you're located. I'm sure there are other motors that would work. I would think that any 1Hp (.75Kw) 1800RPM D80 motor rated for inverter duty would work. And there are lots of VFDs on the market that could be used. I chose the L510 VFD primarily because it is readily available where I live and has an excellent manual written in my native language.
Unfortunately, I don't have a VFD that supports a braking resistor. I think the Teco-Westinghouse VFDs only support braking resistors for the 460V models.
I'm now watching this video after I purchased my 3 phase 1.5kw 2 pole motor @2800rpm for my grizzly style lathe. I feel as though i did a big yikes! I'm gonna have to make it work. 😟
Yeah. It's working now and the video will be up soon. It turns out that the default settings in the VFD did not match the defaults shown in the manual. Either the manual is wrong or someone else had their hands on this VFD before me. Maybe it was a return. I don't know, but it's working great now.
Clough42,
I would like to thank you for your efforts on the video you produced of the VFD installation on your lathe and the subsequent video of the drive RF noise mitigation methods you used, reference your videos from 4 years ago.
I used the information from your drive RF noise mitigation method to great effect with an Automation Direct GS2 drive I installed on a bench top mill. This drive produced conducted as well as radiated RF noise into the AC and DC systems. This noise caused an IGgaying DRO to lose its position when the drive motor was running. I installed the same EMI filter on the drive input and ferrite toroid’s on the drive output to the motor as described in your noise reduction video.
I have also installed a Teco 2 HP drive on a lathe project. Thank you for the detailed look into the drive manual. Very helpful.
You took the time needed to explain clearly how this setup works. Your camera shots show very clearly how you have wired up the VDF and Motor. A lot of time has been put into producing this excellent video. My thanks to you Sir!
Great info, straight to the point, clear and consised, and no unnecessary tangent stories. Video is 10/10. Got yourself a new subscriber.
Thank you very much for this superb video. The VFD in my Powermatic wood turning lathe died a few weeks ago and I was very apprehensive about replacing it. The replacement part from the manufacturer was $650. With your video, I bought the correct new VFD for $230 and successfully installed and programmed it myself.
An exemplary work in how to produce a video and how to clearly and unequivocally deliver technical information into understandable terms. Thank you!!
I just saw this, 5 years after. I’ve replaced a number of motors with 3 phase inverter motors. After having used a number of different VFDs and motors, I’ve settled on these TECO/Westinghouse VFDs and their motors as well. I’ve found them to be easy to program, some are more confusing to those not experienced in this. The motors are made very well, and you know they work together.
There are different types of VFD and different types of inverter motors. Make sure you get those designed to work together. Generally, an inverter motor is constant torque at and below the rated frequency, down to some specified frequency, and then constant power above that to the max frequency. So my 2 Hp motor, for example, is constant torque from 3 Hz to 60 Hz, and constant power from 60 Hz to 120 Hz. Be careful when setting adjustment compensation for constant torque. Don’t be tempted to go right to the highest level, which is usually +50%. Stay close to +20-30%. Your motor may overheat otherwise unless you have a high overload factor.
At any rate, there’s a lot to this, many adjustments you don’t have to do. These VFDs have intimidating manuals for the uninitiated. I’m going now to the second video to see what he did. And, by the way, program the VFDs BEFORE attaching the motor, that’s a must. A beginners mistake.
As others have said, very professionally done, well explained, and top notch camera work. 10/10!
Thanks James! My 602 is starting to make those clicky sounds in the motor and I've been wanting to go to variable speed anyhow. Appreciate the hard work you put into this and sharing it with everyone.
Glad to help
As an electrical engineer, I loved every second of this. UL listed! Surprise, surprise.
Hey James just want to say I've watched this video every time I've needed to wire a vfd and its the best one on the internet.
wow you look so much healthier in your newer videos, amazing work!
Thanks! I feel a lot better, too.
@@Clough42 Yeah I agree, great work, much like these machines need to be maintained properly so do we, otherwise we don't perform our best, both mentally and physically.
WOW...so logically articulated step by step...one of the most educational technical videos I have viewed! Learned a lot and THANKS.
Thanks for your VFD videos. I purposely bought a Teco L510 because of your clear videos. I’m refurbishing an old Delta 3ph bandsaw and installing the VFD on the saw. The manual is tough to follow since this is my first time setting up a VFD. Your videos really helped. Thanks.
THE BEST EVER VIDEO I HAVE EVER WATCHED ANY WHERE........... I AM AN IDOT AND I CLEARLY UNDERSTOOD EVERY THING CLEARLY BRAVO SIR EXTREAMLY WELL DONE FAULTLESS PERFECT I CANT BELIVE I HAVE LEARNED SO MUCH I DIDNT KNOW ............ABOUT 3PH MOTORS AND VFD,S PROGRAMING AND WIRING
This is exactly the video I was looking for. Simple enough for a novice, but detailed enough to be educational. You've earned yourself a subscriber.
Great video thank you. never seen a label like that before. my connections as follows; 4-5-6-, 1-1-7, 2-2-8, 3-3-9. I wire in over 1000k motors in a year.
Well, I'm really late to the VFD on a G0602 party. But when I ran across James' videos, I knew I had to make the jump to a VFD. The way James breaks everything down is clear and concise. Excellent content James! I got everything ordered and made the conversion. It works perfectly as in the videos. My next step is the ELS conversion. I have most of the parts already, just waiting on the Texas Instrument developer board and the cogs from China. I can't wait to get rid of all those nasty gears. Well done James! Thanks for your excellent content! You earned a new subscriber!
4:02
“These motors come in a couple of different (flavors) “ 🎉
Not as late as me :) I'm having trouble locating this motor now. It's discontinued and so is the replacement. Any Ideas on another replacement?
@@The411 what motor ? Just look up on Google and try to find a motto with similar numbers volts and hp and rpm
@@The411 Actually, when I ordered mine. The company reached out to me to tell me that model was discontinued. The guy on the phone matched the specifications on RPM, size and base plate mount, etc. with the motor James listed in the conversion. It fit and worked just like it the videos. Just call the company you were ordering it from and ask them to match up the specs.
I would tell you what my motor is, but I am out of town traveling until September.
I will add this conversion is amazing if you have a G0602. It is pure joy to work with the lathe.
Let me know if you need my motor number when I return home.
Good luck!
@@SRED Thanks for the reply. Yes, my lathe is a G0602.I think I have info on a suitable motor a Marathon R313A it matches the specs very well. I was worried about a motor not being VFD capable, but apparently all motors in the last 10 yrs or so are all VFD capable, and the newer ones dont even mention it. Safe travels.
you are using a single phase to 3 phase vfd.
when I watched some of your videos i had questions; I thought you were using a regular vfd but now makes sense .
thank you soo much for taking the time to make this video and explaining everything so well
Great VFD set up video. Nice job!
A very clear and imitable project. Thank you so much for sharing this.
When using a VFD the cable for the motor must be sheild and connected to the frame or ground in the VFD to prevent EMC noise.
Not only should proper shielded VFD motor cable be used but the shield should be properly grounded at both ends to form a closed loop essential for effective shielding for the magnetic interference from the motor current. Fully conductive EMC cable glands are purpose made in a range of sizes matched to the VFD cable and should be used to ground the shield to the motor terminal box. Plastic cable glands are unsuitable for shielded cable. Good quality VFDs have good solid cable clamping brackets for grounding the shield close to the VFD motor terminals.
Must is a strong word. It should be, but it would be hard to notice it at home. Noise becomes a problem when you have multiple drives running and your PLC's are trying to communicate.
@@keithfisk5641 i was looking for this, thank you
Thanks for another great video- it looks like there are lots of people interested in VFDs for the home shop and I think you've made a terrific series covering the whole process.
However regarding EMI- have you considered using a shielded cable? The motor line will act as a 16GHz antenna and is easily solved by using a shielded cable. There are plenty of 3 core + earth shielded cables and their matching shielded gland ends specifically made for VFD use which might work well for you.
Keep up the great work!
Well done! Excellent setup for the shoot and the explanations and instructions were clear.
excellent video , I'm now a fan of the channel!
The tradesmen that I worked with referred to what your calling a cable gland they called it a water dust proof strain relief I preferred to use the ones that are explosion proof any time needed even in my truck when I ran any wires through the firewall in my truck for a power inverter and the 110v and 12v to the back inside box and into the tool box where I had emergency lights and a cooler when needed .
They are called by a lot of different names, depending on the market. Automation Direct calls them Cable Glands. McMaster-Carr calls them Cord Grips. Lowe's calls them Cable Connector Conduit Fittings. Chinese import resellers usually use keyword soup, like Cord Grip Cable Glands for Electrical Box Waterproof Nylon Strain Relief.
@@Clough42 as a safety officer I brought it up that we had red seal journeyman electricians who did not know the terminologies for ele fittings because 100% of the training they had they never worked on a industrial site .it proved to be a problem we even he'd electrical engineers from China who was not recognized in Canada so some of them challenged the journeyman cert and some passed never once setting for on any job anywhere the oilsands capitalized on there knowledge.
You is a pretty smart fellow, pleasure to watch you work 😄
Thank you very very much guy!! Você é o cara!!!!! Felicitações do Rio de Janeiro!
Such a helpful video series. Thanks heaps for posting.
OMG I cant believe how much weight you've lost!! This must be the first old vid I've seen!
Yeah, it's been a journey for sure!
@@Clough42 Well done!
Hello,
What factors did you use to choose the Teco L510 over the E510? Costs are very close and the E510 is advertised as controlling lathes.
VT in motor speed stands for variable torque. The torque will change when you change the speed of the motor.
Very good and nice video. However, for the cable selection from VFD to motor, don't you think the cable should be the shielded or screen type?
Great video, I'm dealing with wiring mine up right now. Big issue I have is the wires coming from my 3 hp 3 phase motor are solid copper either 16 ga or 14 ga all the same color. It's a South Bend from 1960. Wire nuts keep coming loose when putting 12 ga stranded wire together with the solid, (2 solid & 1 stranded), I have considered soldering or maybe connectors but can't seem to find a large enough connectors to put all 3 together that will work on the terminals with the VFD. I guess it's what we all run into trying to modify our equipement. Thanks
Fantastic detail and explanations!
I am mostly curious as to what improvement in the machine function can be realized by this fairly expensive upgrade. Grizzly says the machine has speeds from 150 to 2400 rpm. This seems to me a reasonable range for this type of lathe. What am I missing?
A VFD can run from low RPM to high with no gaps. The Grizzly without VFD has a belt you need to physically change pulleys, so you can only select 6 speeds. 150, 300, 560, 720, 1200 or 2400
Awesome video! this helped me wire up an Arboga 3 phase drill to a VFD
Great video ! Really simply explains it.
Very informative, but how would you go about with a variable speed on a variable size pulley system leave
Which connection is mentioned as 'low voltage' connection, Is it star or delta ?
Hi James
I am just curious if you have any regret going with the 1HP motor or do you wish you went with more horsepower ?
Do you have any alternative motor choices ? I’m having a hard time finding this motor.
HELP!!! After the installation does it matter where the belt placement is placed thanks.
Nice explaine sir I am interesting used vfd invertors off you have provide me? Thank you
Amazing video
if i get a 110v input vfd does my 3 phase motor need to be 110 or does the vfd convert it to 110
On the VFD spec plate, I see that the AC Input is 19 Amps. Have you ever checked the actual VFD input current draw? Is the VFD on a separate circuit? Thanks.
Can the material of the shorting bar be stainless steel metal or must it be a of specific type of metal?
so is low voltage...... 456 tied together 1-7 then 2-8 then 3-9 and they are L1 L2 L3 ?
Thank you for the good video. Please explain is the low voltage connection at time 16:16 in a delta or star configuration? It's confusing as I've never heard of a 9 lead motor before . New electrical student haha...
I think it's star-wired. Three of the coils are already connected in a star configuration inside the motor, and you either connect the other three coils in another star wired in parallel with the first (low voltage) or you attach them in series with the coils in the hard-wired star (high voltage).
My lathe and mill already have 220-3ph motors.So I can just add a VFD,and run them on 110-115?I had a rotary conv. at my other home,but didn't install it here yet,and looking forward to not having to if this works..
Thanks for going into so much detail on this whole process. I've just completed the same job on my G0602, using the referenced VFD and motor. Thanks to your efforts, it was an easy job. Did you ever try running the VFD auto tuning procedure?
Just wondering why you didn't go with 120 volt fans? i.e. I see Hammond actually has fan kits for it's enclosures...
I shoot video in my shop, so I'm trying to use the quietest fans I can get.
I have a 110 v sanding floor machine that I wish to convert to run on both 1110 and 240 do you know where I could find instructions to do this, please?
Thanjj jy s for sharing. I am also learning more about VFD’s and electrical motors.
I have a VFD on my lathe because I don’t have 3 phase power and the lathe has s 3 phase motor. Now, I am doing some research after the fact because I am building a machine for a client. I see that everyone now is using SHIELDED wire between the VFD and the motor as they say it can damage thd motor, the motor bearings… as well as the cable ( Ozone that eats PVC! )
What is your thoughts about this as I see you did not mention shielded wire in your setup…
I have a enco 13x40 3phaae lathe can I hook the lathe main input wires straight to the vfd to run the machine
Great video!
James,
Other than cost, any reason why you didn't with a 2hp VFD? In general, I have always over-spec'd things like this, but thought I would ask if there was any downside to using a higher HP rated VFD on a lower HP rated motor? Thanks in advance for any input
John
The VFD would need to be configured to only output 1hp to the motor so there would be no real advantage. Plus a 2hp VFD wouldn't be available for a 110v input.
Is the motor in Delta?
I'm going to do the same conversion as you. The motor you have linked to is no longer available. You mention the different RPM motors. What would be the downside to using the 3600 RPM?
Is the LEESON C80T17FZ54A (cat # 192241.00) going to work? The difference I see is it states on the plate it is a PMW but doesn’t say VFD. Also, under the cover it has 9 wires, but only 6 studs and no metal jumpers. Not sure if this is just the newer version of your motor. The specs plate is nearly identical otherwise... thanks man!
Does anyone know the reason why they sell most of the electric stuff without a cable? Anyway we must to buy it.
Hello, James
You mentioned about Hi voltage and Lo voltage, does it mean that Hi voltage is for direct wiring with three phase electrical system if you have it in your building? Please answer. Thanks.
The direction, speed, and fan wiring are low voltage (10-12VDC). The mains input and motor wiring are high voltage AC. In this case, the contactor start and e-stop wiring are also high (mains) voltage.
AmericanOkie - I see that this post is old, but if it still matters, the answer to your question is “No”. The Hi and Lo voltage on the motor diagrams refers to the two
(Continuing)...working voltages the motor was designed to run on, either 230 or 480. They are both three phase. Both of those voltages are commonly available in industrial buildings with three phase supply. Some TECO VFD’s are available with 480 volt output, but the one in this video has only 230 volt output, and that’s why James changed from Hi (the 480 volt setting) to Lo (the 230 volt setting).
Is there any particular reason you decided to go with 110v input instead of 220v? Is there more power to be had at 220v than using 110v? Thank you
110v is sufficient for a 1HP motor. I have 220 in the shop as well, but 110 was more convenient
@@Clough42 thanks I was just figuring on going with 220v but I'll just go 110v and not have to worry about adding more outlets. Thank you for answering back! Greatly appreciated!
Hi James,
What size is the cable gland you used for the motor and where did you get it? I'm assuming it's metric 16mm? I've been planning this upgrade for a while and already had the Leeson motor and Teco 510 VFD, but I did by the line filter, pots and Ferite rings through your affiliate links. My motor also had the 6 posts like another viewer mentioned. It was more of a PITA to wire than yours, but I think I've got it.
Any info regarding the cable gland will be appreciated.
Jody
If wiring the motor directly to a wall plugin, do I just leave the negative terminal empty and splice the 3 hot wires together? Thanks for the great video.
Very informative. Thanks!
thanks for the vids . Does the groundwire for power cable in VFD shorts the ground for motor cables ?i have this VFD named invt from gooddrive company , it does not have a grounded terminal for power cable but it has a terminal for motor cable. shall i just connect to that terminal. appreciate any help .
At 22:28, talking about the 4.3A max out corresponding to 19A at 100V in...does that imply that the VFD efficiency in that case would be about (3^.5)*4.3A*240V/(19A*100V) = 1787W/1900W = ~94%? just dividing power out (using square root of three and assuming a power factor of 1, based on sciencing.com/how-6521700-calculate-3-phase-power.html) by power in.
I just have the specifications in the manual to go by, and I don't think they specify efficiency numbers or explain how anything is calculated. The motor power rating table in the manual says the input is "1ph 100-120V +10%-15% 50/60Hz". I don't know if they're figuring 100V - 15% as the worst case. If they are, the efficiency would be higher than what you're calculating, but I don't know.
nice job. I suspect that you will wish you did something a bit bigger. I've done a few and found that 2 hp is a lot nicer. Able to run at a much lower speed without stalling out. 3 phase IS better at low speeds but when you have reduced the speed using the VFD by say 4 times, then the relevant hp would be about 1/4 hp. Ok, but not great. If you cut that in half again, 1/8 hp is not enough, at least for me
Fantastic videos. Very Informative. Now that you have had that set up are you still happy with it? I have the same lathe and Co sidering the same upgrade.
For sure. I don't know how I would function without a VFD on the lathe.
Hello,
Can you kindly guide me that from any VFD which has output of 3-Phase 220V, can we handle speed control of 30V 6KW 3-Phase AC Motor with full torque?
great video where were you going to find the shorting bars for the motor
I didn't think I had enough, but it turned out there were extras stacked on top of each other in the factory configuration.
it is possible to run single phase motor using micromaster 420??
I have a 3 phase 12 lead motor, any ideas on how to wire it to a vfd converter
Awesome video thank you
When testing the wires. It looks like you used 110 outlet to bench test. I thought I needed 220 to setup, but rather use 110.
Awesome, thanks
I don’t own a lathe but Soon I will. My question is, if the motor is rated for 230/460 volts. How’s it working with 110 volts?
The VFD takes 115VAC as input, steps that up to a high DC voltage internally, and uses it to produce 230VAC 3-phase output to drive the motor.
THIS IS GOLD!!!!
Hi James,
Any chance you could give the dimensions of that motor, (diameter and length), I have A HF 8 x 20 and I’d like see if it would fit onto my lath?
Thanks
Brian A google a d80 frame. That will tell you what you need
As mentioned, it's a D80 frame motor. There's a drawing from Leeson here: www.electricmotorwholesale.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.download&fileId=276008
I watch a lot of your videos, you do a great job explaining how, why... But, you really need a better crimper!!!! Second, any of the SO, SJ, SJO cords should be fine, you did not list what gauge you are running on 3 phase, I assume, 14-16 since it rated at >4amp. great job!
nice explanation sir..thanks
Hi what is the shaft motor diameter?
Tank you
Very nice
Remenber when use a VFD to drive a motor then select a motor with ceramic bearings otherwise your bearings will be harmed by eddy current.
This is not necessary. A common mode choke will block the common mode energy that can capacitively couple to the rising assembly and flow through the bearings.
@@Clough42 I must admit I didn't saw the whole video, just hear the squeaking sound and you said it was not the main spindle, so my conclusion was the motor bearings. You are right the common mode choke will help, due to smoothing the sine wave. Even though the magnetic field lines in an AC motor, which has to produce its own magnetic field based on a chopped squarewave approx to sinusoidal wave give induction currents in the bearings. Maybe the size of AC motor you have the effect is not significant but you will see the problem on large AC motors driven by VFD.
I tried to find exactly the same engine and VFD, however, I did not find. Is the motor more powerful and the other VFD can be similarly configured?
There are links in the description to the parts I used, though I don't know where you're located. I'm sure there are other motors that would work. I would think that any 1Hp (.75Kw) 1800RPM D80 motor rated for inverter duty would work. And there are lots of VFDs on the market that could be used. I chose the L510 VFD primarily because it is readily available where I live and has an excellent manual written in my native language.
great vid! I will be using it as a reference...thanks!
You're welcome. I'm glad you found it useful.
Is there a way to display RPM instead of HZ. If so how is done.
Thank you
VT stands for Variable Torque
Good Video keep it coming
Thanks!
How did you fix this vfd, mine does the same thing out of the box?
Yeah, I got it sorted out. Take a look at part 2: ua-cam.com/video/RQKPtf7stiw/v-deo.html
What was the size of your cable gland on the motor box
Those are 6-12mm glands. These are the ones I used: amzn.to/2MbfcYP
Sir pl make a video on DBR ( DC Breaking Resistor) how set parameters in vfd
Unfortunately, I don't have a VFD that supports a braking resistor. I think the Teco-Westinghouse VFDs only support braking resistors for the 460V models.
I thought VFDs need doubletwist shielded cable for power connection
I have a LEESON 6 post D80 motor how would wire it ?
Without seeing the motor, that's hard to say. Does it have a wiring diagram under the cover? Can you contact the seller for more information?
revisiting this video..have a vfd on the way...who the hell is the guy in this video :). nice work sir.
Yeah...I look a little different now.
I'm now watching this video after I purchased my 3 phase 1.5kw 2 pole motor @2800rpm for my grizzly style lathe. I feel as though i did a big yikes!
I'm gonna have to make it work.
😟
I had the same problem you have to configure the VFD to get it to work
Yeah. It's working now and the video will be up soon. It turns out that the default settings in the VFD did not match the defaults shown in the manual. Either the manual is wrong or someone else had their hands on this VFD before me. Maybe it was a return. I don't know, but it's working great now.