I'm an advocate of Eternabond tape, but I do appreciate what you say about the difficulty of removing it. Kudos to a job well done...I'm certain many shops would never clean it up as well as you did here. Proper preparation is key to everything we do to achieve long lasting results.
Having done this same job on my Holiday Rambler, I admit it's messy, but I didn't think it was that difficult. I used a heat gun and a putty knife to scrape up the old tape and most of the adhesive in one pass. I made a second pass to scrape up more adhesive, but I did not try to remove all of it. I sprayed the remaining adhesive with EternaPrime, let it dry and applied the new tape. It's only been a couple of years, but it seems to be holding up. I did learn to avoid any of the Eternabond imitators.
I mean it's not difficult but it's not enjoyable either. Without the scissor lift it would have been difficult and dangerous on the full wall slide. Thanks!
I do enjoy your work being a semi retired guy who made/makes a living fixing things it is/was always enjoyable for folks to tell me how it should be repaired/installed. Those who can do and those who can't try to tell you how to do it right.
I would assume once you use eternabond, you would replace with eternabond, will be compatible with the gue that you can’t get removed, better chance of sealing
I totally understand working in roof in Arizona, did it in Spring three years ago and it was so hot ! I started about 6:00 am because it was 90 by 8:00! Great teaching about this tape cause I’m in Louisiana and it’s hot at 1:00 here and I got my knee all burnt but the roof I’m working on hasn’t ever had roof coating a 1985 Yellowstone with lots of leaks! Was doing spots but it rained yesterday real bad and I found part of the problem the ac the roof is warping and held water! So thank you! Good luck
What are your recommendations for prep steps? Do you think EternaClean and the brand conditioning treatments are necessary or just a good wash followed by mineral spirits before application?
Looking at this project you can readily see that the surface was not prepared properly before installing the Eternabond tape. It was very difficult for this guy to remove. Had it been applied properly moisture would not have gotten under the tape.
Just bought a monaco coach where someone decided to seal the entire bathroom skylight with eternabond all the way around, and finish it up with what I think is caulk. It was leaking a little bit. The repair was a mess. I removed all of it and resealed with dicor. Not leaking anymore. On my travel trailer I had a tree branch poke a small hole in my rubber roof. Used eternabond to repair it 8 years ago. Still holding strong, but it was a 4"x4" patch.
I still plan on applying EternaBond to all my seals. I don't believe EternaBond is suggesting you don't ever check your tape after applying it, but plenty of RVs have had success using it to stop the lap sealant from being a source of water intrusion. But using it to give you years between applications rather than months makes a lot of sense.
I've done several repairs the best thing I've used is the peel and stick black tar on one side and a thin piece of aluminum on the other side. I bought it at Lowe's in the insulation section it's similar to dynamat but it's a lot thinner and lighter. You need something on the top like aluminum so it doesn't break down and crack and come off. I usually clean the roof first with vinegar let it dry real good put the 587 Uncle Henry's white coat from Home Depot on it then put that peel and stick aluminum foil black tar tape on the other side stuck to the roof and then paint it again with the Uncle Henry's 587 roof coat. And if using the tape towards the front overlap it so the wind will not catch it in the front and lift it up. Any other kind of tape or sealants will break down crack and fall apart like what's on there. At Lowe's 6 inch x about a 30 foot roll is $18.00 I always like to do it once and do it right the first time.
Window flashing tape. I swear by it. It’s easy to remove with mineral spirits and seals better than eternabond. $13 a roll. I’ve used it for several years and live full time in an rv. Eternabond just isn’t sticky enough.
I just replaced the factory tape that came on my cargo trailer. It took a 3 pints of goof off to clean it back to bare metal. They had 2 inch tape and I went back with 4 inch tape. Hopefully it holds up longer than the 5 years I got out of the original before a small leak started.
I worked for a manufacturing company for 40 years, I will say this, "Most of the top brand products are just as good as another. It's the prep work that makes a difference."
I put the Eternabond tape on my roof a year ago on my rig and the grey butyl part turned to powder under the Arizona sun. I know my roof is shot and needs to be replaced, but I have been Band-Aiding it for the past four years.
Many thanks for the great tech tip, seen some videos of people using it on vents and such and i cringed thinking that’s not right. But as a nubie RVer I thought OK...May be. Now I know, reseal vent and use this in the right place for the right reason!
i used a heat gun on low to get a bunch of it off. i did a test section on high, not recommended! works great on the flat areas. reduched work by half, but curves kinda don't care/make it harder. so, mineral spirits and scraping a litrtle at a time on those spots. i spent 9 hrs today stripping some to relaminate the front drivers side
Aaannndd that’s why at my local RV dealer the labor rate is 120.00 an hour, my hats off to you , my hats off, thank you for the video, always very informative . Thank You.
Can you point me to a video of generally-accepted roof repair procedures? Was just gifted a camper to live in for a year or two, but has a puncture on the roof. It'll be in SW Texas desert, under an enclosure, but I still like to do things correctly. Thanks for your videos!
Finally a video about my problem, thanks for the video James. My issue is the factory used 1/4 inch hex drives to hold down the slideout trim. The seals ripped the tape on the screw heads, then it leaked. I put some aluminum backed roof tape over it and now its peeling off the TPO roof. I'm trying to finger out a forever fix. I'm thinking I'm going to have to clean it all off, pull off the trim, and reseal. Once I get it all back together, I'm wondering if I should go back with Eternaleak or coat it with Henry's silicone roof coating. Decisions, decisions...
I curse every factory that uses hex screws on exterior trim and attachments. I'd have a hard time recommending the roof coating but I understand your frustration.
Thanks for this information but I couldn't help but notice that after you said Eternabond shoudln't be used for that type of application but you put Eternabond back down. I do have a question. I was thinking of putting Eternabond on that outbound flashing lip on my slide to shore it up. Seems like Dicor or Silicon on where the flashing meets the roof material would be more apt to peel. What do you suggest to protect those joints on a slide where water entry is comon but often not discovered until too late?
It's been my experience that when I clean a surface with thinner, it leaves an oily residue which is not happy with a sticky tape. I will hit it with acetone for a final clean.
I have had great success using my battery powered (oscillating) multi tool with the straight blade in conjunction with gum-b-gone..very little clean up on all my resealing jobs 👍
What glue or adhesive would I use to glue down a two square foot piece of EPDM rubber roof to plywood (fiber board)? This would be part of an roof repair on my RV. I am going to cut a small square of the EPDM rubber roof and replace the plywood under it that is soft due to a leak. Then glue it or a new piece back down. After gluing down the piece of EPDM, I have bought 4 inch wide Eternabond tape to seal the cut I made. Also plan to use Dicor lap sealant at the edge of the tape. The leak was caused by gap in the lap sealant at the roof exhaust fan.
I love all the comments from couch experts here that know how to do every step of this so much better than James. Use a heat gun, use a multi tool, you didn't do it right the first time, you cleaned it wrong, you didn't clean it enough, you used the wrong cleaner, you put the tape on wrong, you should have done it this way, your not a real repair man, you don't know what your doing, etc, etc, etc. And then we get to the BIG one, Waaaaaa Don't disrespect Eternabond its the greatest invention in the history of mankind, how dare James say anything bad about our sacred cow. Almost all of the negative comments were obviously from people that didn't watch the video, didn't listen to anything James said in the video, can't comprehend what James said in the video, or are just plain too stupid to understand what James said. They saw the title, their eyes rolled back in their heads and they just started typing nasty shite about a topic they know nothing about. I have seen many comments in every video James has done that even mentions Eternabond about how he must be sponsored by some tape competitor because thats the only reason why he wouldn't like it, personally as consistent as the attacks are It seems like Eternabond is the one who is sponsoring trolls to attack anyone that dares say anything bad about the product. James has said MANY TIMES that the main reason he doesn't like it is because it is so often installed incorrectly, used in the wrong way, and used to hide glaring issues that should have been repaired before the tape was installed. I really fail to see why its so hard to comprehend that he doesn't like Eternabond because he sees it installed or used incorrectly all the time, then he has to fix the actual problem that wasn't fixed correctly originally. Tons of comments on every single video about an Eternabond failures about how it was installed wrong, bad prep, whatever, the commenters are actually making James point, its installed incorrectly ALL THE TIME. James is not hurting for work, there was a comment "what do you care its billable hours", people with integrity don't think that way, they want to get the job done correctly and move on to the next one, how many hours they can milk out of the job never occurs to them. I really don't get this quasi religion around Eternabond, its literally like a cult of some kind. I am going back and watching all of James old videos and its interesting that usually 99% of the comments are positive about what a great job he does until Eternabond is mentioned in the video, then BOOM 50% negative comments about what a hack James is. And most of the commenters clearly didn't watch or listen to the video, Pathetic.
I own a 2021 KZ sportsman, the rear and side roof gutter trims I assume have a butyl tape behind them and maybe a small bead of sealant at the roof membrane to top of trim joint with exposed trim screws the length of these pieces. I see this as a potential spot for water access. Is my concern valid and\or is there a solution to cover the screw heads or other solution to attempt to keep water out? Thanks and thanks for taking the time to post and make your videos, I've been watching many of them 🙏
Ok second question, i see a ton of rv videos of people putting eternabond over their sealant on their skylights and such and your saying don't do this ?
If you maintain the Eternabond tape with a little sealer on the joints , it will last a VERY long time. If you get some cuts just add more Eternatape. Also if to have to remove it - use a hair dryer on hot and seal on top with a rubberized sealer - no big deal. After 10 to 15 years the whole membrane will probably need replacing anyways.
Going by the images in the video, it looks like the initial prep work was severely lacking. Combine that with the Arizona sun, and I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did.
Thanks for the video... You do such great work... Highly competent... Thank you for sharing your experience... Our coach has lived most of it's 21 year life indoors or at least under a cover that protects it from the sun and weather... I'm just fascinated by your videos that illustrate what can happen to a lot of rigs that are continually exposed to the elements... Lots to learn!...
That tape looks like it is more difficult to work with than Eternabond. I like the floor roller for smoothing/pressurizing the adhesive. Well done James. Hardest working man in the RV business.
I have a 45' RV that the "entire roof" has been replaced with 4" strips of eternabond(knockoff). Ill add its been holding up quite nicely. I'd like you to replace it with genuine eternabond. James response @18:07 ! :0 :0 : (ya know Im kidding right?) Really though used properly? I think the stuff is great. but no matter the application dealing with the stuff sucks! thanks for the up!
Everything you mentioned is user error, not product error. I can't fathom why the owner of that coach thought putting eternabond over the top of an existing failure was going to solve the issue. Eternabond is only going to work as well as what it sticks to. I understand what you are staying though. Back in the day, we used to have customers bring us their non walkable aluminum roof with the the entire thing covered in roofing tar. Evidently, plasti-cote was too expensive. It was cheaper than the repair bill to fix what they botched. Lol
I feel your pain. It’s a great product, but absolutely a train wreck to remove. I work down the street, we met at the training session at Cardinal Stadium.
My opinion is not to have tape as the wiper seal drags across it.....but as the factory did it already, it would be difficult to get every little sticky bit out, so the new tape will cover the sticky parts that would have damaged the wiper/bulb seal.
Would love if you make a video on a temporary fix for a 3-in tear in the synthetic fabric on top of the main slide. We are primarily in very hot climates (FL, TX, AZ.) We got caught in a hail storm during winter travel and got damage in about three spots on top of the slide. This is a 2005 RV that we will be selling in about 6 months to buy another one. For that reason we are not wanting to replace the synthetic fabric or install toppers. We've spent over $10,000 in one year on repairs from the previous (not so honest) owners so at this point we're done. We agree that Eterna bond is a mess and have considered using awning tape on the slide fabric. Cannot find a video anywhere on UA-cam about this. ☹️
Really enjoy your videos. Have a QUESTION: 2020 Jayco Whitehawk 24 MBH. (29’ bunk house). One slide. Top corner driver side right at the slide edge that sucks up against the inside wall. Slide was off and created a small tear in some of that “gathered” or “folded” roof material. Used eternabond for emergency. Starting to fail. Is replacing roof material on slide the only good option?
Well i really dislike the tar adhesive of aluminum flashing and the metal edge can damage the rubber wiper seal, the aluminum does not form as well around many edges which can cause tearing of the tape which ruins the tape. No need for a heat gun in the Arizona sun.
@@AZExpertthen you’re not using the proper flashing tape. Window flashing tape is $13 a roll and lasts 10 years once you coat it, or longer. Comes off with mineral spirits.
hi you kept saying eternabond is just a band aid on roof leaks, you said fix it correctly. How do you fix roof leaks correctly without redoing the whole roof?
@@AZExpert OK thanks for responding. Can I or should I put Eternabond on my front seam that keeps leaking. I have a Class C bought almost new in 2008 , over my bunk leaks? Just a girl trying to fix my camper cant afford a new roof. Last year paid 1200.00 to seal up roof. I understood there was no guarantee. That seam leaked again anyway. And those little orange lights leaked too. Water is a blessing and a curse lol. There are so many videos with so much different advice. I have learned a lot from yours. I watch some over and over lol. Thanks for the great information! You clean like a king!!! I have always thought you should make sure its clean before you repair anything. Have a great day.
I’m shopping for my first RV. Are there any particular roof and wall materials and construction techniques that I should be looking for or avoiding with respect to longevity and ease of maintenance and repair?
In general, gel-coat fiberglass roofs are the best. EPDM is thicker than TPO membranes and PVC roofs seem to be better than both of those so far. Motorhomes do tend to have much different build qualities while most towables are made the same from the same components. My only suggestions is to rent first and the less automation the best.
It is a magical compound if you do it right. I've seen them last over 10 years. And it's not recommended on a slide or as the only thing on the roof, it's only supposed to go over current roof. Already you can see eternabond tape should not have been used here.
What do you think about the fabric backed stuff? I have a used class A that has a number of seals covered with the fabric stuff. It seems fine right now however, I dread that day that I have to clean those up and reseal. Hopping that the fabric backed tape could potentially be a long term solution so I do not have to mess with it in the near future.
John M.....I put that stuff on my Residential roof. My Roof is exposed to the sun All day, No shade from trees. Just Good ol' South Texas sun beating on it 15 hrs a day. We just had our coldest winter in decades and 2 yrs ago was one of the Wettest years ever. Well after 5 yrs that stuff is STILL going strong. If you Want it to last Much longer, clean it by giving it a nice Brushing with a soft bristle brush (like a shoe shine brush), and nice cleaning to the immediate area around it and "bordering" it. The tape I used is 4 inches wide, so what I'd do is get either the 8 inch wide Eterna bond or the Aluminum Peel n Seal tape, and center it on that Fabric backed taped (the length of the fabric tape you are trying to cover). Now listen carefully to the next step because it may not seem important but it is: Cover the EDGES of the Eterna bond or Aluminum Peel n Seal tape with an 1 inch overlap of Thin Aluminum tape or Silver Duct tape. God bless.
Was thinking about using the eternabond tape on my roof seams prior to rolling on a new roof just for extra seam protection. Would that be a good application or use of the tape?
This question is a little off topic (and I know it is not used for slide roofs), but what is your experience/opinion of Flex Armor. This is not the roll on roof coating, but a sprayed on polyurea that produces a seamless roof. Thanks and I enjoy your videos!
My opinion is that it is a good product and I'm surprised manufacturers are not using it..........however, my only real concerns are that all the vents,skylights and trims are under the rv armor. Vents, skylights, and solar panels break and in order to replace them and maintain the warranty the roof company has to do it. Also, RV are road vehicles and hit things or are hit so again I have concerns about repairs. Thanks!
Hello, I like your videos, just wish you were closer to Colorado. I've been researching about the wire carrying E chains that Forest River uses. All I find is lots of problems with them breaking. FR said they would send me a chain but I can't find any thing showing how to replace it. Do you have and videos showing how you do this? Thanks
EternaBond is a great product but definitely not for every application. The hot Arizona sun will soften the sealant. If it's on an application where it's subject to lateral tension or an application like this where a secondary seal may rub against it as that pop-out goes back in, it may start to peal loose. Does a great job of "sealing" but is not structural at all. In other words don't hang pictures with it in your house :)
James-what is the best solution for sealing that end cap, especially the corners at the ends of the slide? I have a Schwintek slide with an aluminum cap. It has what appears to be butyl tape under it and nothing else running the edge over the EPDM. It doesn’t appear they have enough screws along the length and I am gathering it flexes when pulled into to the seals. I have had a leak in one corner with the slide open and a leak with it closes coming through one of the lower Schwintek rails. Thoughts? The whole system seems like a poor design, but that’s just me.
Without knowing the slide manufacturer, I'd say it really is likely a poor design. The easiest solution if the water is following the track inside is to make sure the slide is slightly downhill. If that doesn't help you might have to add a sloping gutter with a stop. I'd suggest looking at other slideouts on the side to see what I mean. Thanks!
@@AZExpert James, thanks for the response! Its a Coachman Apex Nano hybrid camper. The end cap is an aluminum flange all the way around. Not sure if that answers the question?! :) As always, love watching your videos!
I didn’t see you cleaning the surface with acetone or alcohol before putting the tape down. Mineral spirits will leave a film that may impact adhesion.
Heat works very well to remove the liner. No need to remove the micro sealant if you're going to put new Eternabond tape over it since the old sealant will become one with the new sealant. Surface prep and application technique is very important.
@@AZExpert Have been binge watching your videos and saw where you had to do just that..lol I am a retired Boat Capt turned RV tech for the past 7 years.. I would love to buy your Beaver.. I am looking for something good.. but here in SE Ga.. not much..
Great Video again. Not sure if you have listed on any of your videos what cleaners you use on different materials of a RV. i.e. Rubber roofing, Side walls, etc. when your putting it back together before you apply any of the Dicor products what do you clean with (Mineral Spirts or? Or What not to ever use. Also how to tell what material the side wall or Front plastic might be, fiber glass or what? (specifically Thor Majestic) Thanks again for making these videos and sharing you knowledge .
I have roof inspection series that hopefully covers most of those questions. Overall though, I recommend soap and water to clean anything on the exterior.
@@AZExpert Thanks for the response. I notice you use Dicor none levelling in several location where the putty was used originally. I have the trim off from the front to side seal and would like to use the dicor none levelling under it instead of any putty. Your thoughts?
@@AZExpert interesting. Probably not an application I would have used it for. But I like it use as a sealant on the roof seams and damaged areas. Really appreciate you videos. Keep up the good work!!
Why don't you clean out all the rot and fungul infested wood before sealing it over? You will continue to have fungal infestation in the nearby good wood with mere condensation from the air after the area warms up during the day and later cools at night.
Dicor doesn’t last very long. RV repair centers recommend having it applied every 6 months. This is a big inconvenience and very costly. Insurance companies don’t cover leaking RV roofs. I denied a lot of RV roof leaks and people just had to throw their RV in the trash or pay over 10000 dollars to have a new roof put on out of their own pocket. This was the worst part of my job. A company called RV Armor will apply a material that will last over 10 years maybe more and they will guarantee it. The cost depends on your RV size but I believe they cost starts at about 3000.00. Do something because if you don’t your roof will eventually leak.
Okay, okay, I did the same repair on my much smaller (thank goodness) slide out. I really worked hard on finding the leak that showed up on the floor at the inside end of the slide. The sidewall was damaged so after moving the slide in and deconstructing the sidewall, drying it out and rebuilding it, I finished by adding eternabond to the trim attachments and their corresponding 90 degree corners leading into the sidewall of the trailer, top and bottom (in this instance) 4 corners and 4 sides. I was horrified after all that work (I thought it look like a work of art) it still leaked? Turns out that the water was getting in by running out to the face of the open slide, over my repair and through the seem in the 90 degree trim that the outward seal was attached to. Once it got to the face of the slide it just traveled within the mitre of the face trim beneath the seal and then into the sidewall. To fix it, I had to force non leveling dicor into the 90 degree joint of the trim. Crazy extra work but worth the effort. You can't stop water, you can only direct it. Thanks for the videos.
@@AZExpert I bought a new Forrest River Gray Wolf 28BH in 2008, pulled it only twice, for 600 miles on good roads, and it still came unglued structurally where the wall meets the roof... while it was parked in the shed.. TOTAL JUNKY POS 😎 LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE IS THESE DAYS.. WELCOME TO CHINA
You left the rag with mineral spirits sit on the roof membrane, not a good idea as you won’t see the damage but consider that your weakest spot now or the next.
Critical to your problem is the fact that eternabond does not stick to silicone. Before applying it, any trace of silicone would need to be removed. Clearly that was not done. Silicone is about the only thing it won't stick to. And the release tape you remove is siliconized for this reason.
you are correct that it won't stick to silicone, howver there was no silicone. The clear bead of sealant is proflex which is not silicone based at all. The problem is it gets hot in the sun and slide seals drag with pressure and begin to peel the tape off. Thanks!
I'm an advocate of Eternabond tape, but I do appreciate what you say about the difficulty of removing it. Kudos to a job well done...I'm certain many shops would never clean it up as well as you did here. Proper preparation is key to everything we do to achieve long lasting results.
Yeah it's a bugger to take off
Use a heat gun next time.
You make everything seem so easy but it really isn't- it is a testament to your experience, well done.
Thank you. It's mostly just a sticky mess so not a lot of fun.
Having done this same job on my Holiday Rambler, I admit it's messy, but I didn't think it was that difficult. I used a heat gun and a putty knife to scrape up the old tape and most of the adhesive in one pass. I made a second pass to scrape up more adhesive, but I did not try to remove all of it. I sprayed the remaining adhesive with EternaPrime, let it dry and applied the new tape. It's only been a couple of years, but it seems to be holding up. I did learn to avoid any of the Eternabond imitators.
I mean it's not difficult but it's not enjoyable either. Without the scissor lift it would have been difficult and dangerous on the full wall slide. Thanks!
Wow, a couple of yrs and still holding strong. Sounds like success to me.
Heat gun, great idea mate , thanks for the tip if me ever needs it eh ...
It’s fascinating watching you work. Your smile makes the whole scene brighten. 😀
thank you very much, that's nice to hear
I like how he does not take the easy route definitely puts time and effort into it
I do enjoy your work being a semi retired guy who made/makes a living fixing things it is/was always enjoyable for folks to tell me how it should be repaired/installed. Those who can do and those who can't try to tell you how to do it right.
Thank you!
“I don’t like eternabond.” Removes eternabond, replaces with eternabond. 🤔
It has its uses. Doesn't mean we have to be best friends.Thanks for watching! :)
Is this a shakedown so They will sponsor You to shut You up? Everyone I know swears by it.
“ Don’t like eternabond” but if I am not mistaken he put an inferior product? 😅
I would assume once you use eternabond, you would replace with eternabond, will be compatible with the gue that you can’t get removed, better chance of sealing
So how is it supposed to be done if not using eternabond?
I totally understand working in roof in Arizona, did it in Spring three years ago and it was so hot ! I started about 6:00 am because it was 90 by 8:00! Great teaching about this tape cause I’m in Louisiana and it’s hot at 1:00 here and I got my knee all burnt but the roof I’m working on hasn’t ever had roof coating a 1985 Yellowstone with lots of leaks! Was doing spots but it rained yesterday real bad and I found part of the problem the ac the roof is warping and held water! So thank you! Good luck
Prep is everything! If the surface has been prepared correctly, Eternabond will last a lot longer than the trailer.
I'm not sure Eternabond makes that claim with a 15 year warranty, but prep is important. Thanks!
What are your recommendations for prep steps? Do you think EternaClean and the brand conditioning treatments are necessary or just a good wash followed by mineral spirits before application?
@@AZExpert25 year
Looking at this project you can readily see that the surface was not prepared properly before installing the Eternabond tape. It was very difficult for this guy to remove. Had it been applied properly moisture would not have gotten under the tape.
yep
Man what a job, I would lose my mind, in that heat. I commend your perseverance.
It is not fun.
Just bought a monaco coach where someone decided to seal the entire bathroom skylight with eternabond all the way around, and finish it up with what I think is caulk. It was leaking a little bit. The repair was a mess. I removed all of it and resealed with dicor. Not leaking anymore. On my travel trailer I had a tree branch poke a small hole in my rubber roof. Used eternabond to repair it 8 years ago. Still holding strong, but it was a 4"x4" patch.
It has its uses for sure
I still plan on applying EternaBond to all my seals. I don't believe EternaBond is suggesting you don't ever check your tape after applying it, but plenty of RVs have had success using it to stop the lap sealant from being a source of water intrusion. But using it to give you years between applications rather than months makes a lot of sense.
I've done several repairs the best thing I've used is the peel and stick black tar on one side and a thin piece of aluminum on the other side. I bought it at Lowe's in the insulation section it's similar to dynamat but it's a lot thinner and lighter. You need something on the top like aluminum so it doesn't break down and crack and come off. I usually clean the roof first with vinegar let it dry real good put the 587 Uncle Henry's white coat from Home Depot on it then put that peel and stick aluminum foil black tar tape on the other side stuck to the roof and then paint it again with the Uncle Henry's 587 roof coat. And if using the tape towards the front overlap it so the wind will not catch it in the front and lift it up. Any other kind of tape or sealants will break down crack and fall apart like what's on there. At Lowe's 6 inch x about a 30 foot roll is $18.00 I always like to do it once and do it right the first time.
Thanks for the tip
@@AZExpert Your welcome
Window flashing tape. I swear by it. It’s easy to remove with mineral spirits and seals better than eternabond. $13 a roll. I’ve used it for several years and live full time in an rv. Eternabond just isn’t sticky enough.
'I gotta a roller'
Pulls out the roller that Odin uses when he can't find his big ol hammer :)
I heard Thor is a bigger fan
I just replaced the factory tape that came on my cargo trailer. It took a 3 pints of goof off to clean it back to bare metal. They had 2 inch tape and I went back with 4 inch tape. Hopefully it holds up longer than the 5 years I got out of the original before a small leak started.
I worked for a manufacturing company for 40 years, I will say this, "Most of the top brand products are just as good as another. It's the prep work that makes a difference."
Good video. Thank you James. Happy trails!
Thanks for watching!
You've done a great job James, thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching Ron!
I put the Eternabond tape on my roof a year ago on my rig and the grey butyl part turned to powder under the Arizona sun.
I know my roof is shot and needs to be replaced, but I have been Band-Aiding it for the past four years.
Was the preparation done correctly ? Was the original underlay solid ? 🤔
Many thanks for the great tech tip, seen some videos of people using it on vents and such and i cringed thinking that’s not right. But as a nubie RVer I thought OK...May be. Now I know, reseal vent and use this in the right place for the right reason!
Glad it was helpful!
i used a heat gun on low to get a bunch of it off. i did a test section on high, not recommended! works great on the flat areas. reduched work by half, but curves kinda don't care/make it harder. so, mineral spirits and scraping a litrtle at a time on those spots. i spent 9 hrs today stripping some to relaminate the front drivers side
That is a long day for sure
Aaannndd that’s why at my local RV dealer the labor rate is 120.00 an hour, my hats off to you , my hats off, thank you for the video, always very informative . Thank You.
Thanks 👍
I live between 2 RV repair shops. One charges $135 an hr and the other $150.
Rates are now 200 an hour
Can you point me to a video of generally-accepted roof repair procedures? Was just gifted a camper to live in for a year or two, but has a puncture on the roof. It'll be in SW Texas desert, under an enclosure, but I still like to do things correctly. Thanks for your videos!
Finally a video about my problem, thanks for the video James. My issue is the factory used 1/4 inch hex drives to hold down the slideout trim. The seals ripped the tape on the screw heads, then it leaked. I put some aluminum backed roof tape over it and now its peeling off the TPO roof. I'm trying to finger out a forever fix. I'm thinking I'm going to have to clean it all off, pull off the trim, and reseal. Once I get it all back together, I'm wondering if I should go back with Eternaleak or coat it with Henry's silicone roof coating. Decisions, decisions...
I curse every factory that uses hex screws on exterior trim and attachments. I'd have a hard time recommending the roof coating but I understand your frustration.
What about using eternabond on lap joints on a new roof to protect them from damage and wear. If not what’s the best way to protect a brand new roof?
Thanks for this information but I couldn't help but notice that after you said Eternabond shoudln't be used for that type of application but you put Eternabond back down. I do have a question. I was thinking of putting Eternabond on that outbound flashing lip on my slide to shore it up. Seems like Dicor or Silicon on where the flashing meets the roof material would be more apt to peel. What do you suggest to protect those joints on a slide where water entry is comon but often not discovered until too late?
It's been my experience that when I clean a surface with thinner, it leaves an oily residue which is not happy with a sticky tape. I will hit it with acetone for a final clean.
Awesome, Thanks for watching!! :)
I have had great success using my battery powered (oscillating) multi tool with the straight blade in conjunction with gum-b-gone..very little clean up on all my resealing jobs 👍
I've had some success too, but also I have made mistakes with it
Of the water stops coming in the leaks fixed in my opinion! Great video 👍
What glue or adhesive would I use to glue down a two square foot piece of EPDM rubber roof to plywood (fiber board)?
This would be part of an roof repair on my RV. I am going to cut a small square of the EPDM rubber roof and replace the plywood under it that is soft due to a leak. Then glue it or a new piece back down. After gluing down the piece of EPDM, I have bought 4 inch wide Eternabond tape to seal the cut I made. Also plan to use Dicor lap sealant at the edge of the tape. The leak was caused by gap in the lap sealant at the roof exhaust fan.
I love all the comments from couch experts here that know how to do every step of this so much better than James. Use a heat gun, use a multi tool, you didn't do it right the first time, you cleaned it wrong, you didn't clean it enough, you used the wrong cleaner, you put the tape on wrong, you should have done it this way, your not a real repair man, you don't know what your doing, etc, etc, etc.
And then we get to the BIG one, Waaaaaa Don't disrespect Eternabond its the greatest invention in the history of mankind, how dare James say anything bad about our sacred cow.
Almost all of the negative comments were obviously from people that didn't watch the video, didn't listen to anything James said in the video, can't comprehend what James said in the video, or are just plain too stupid to understand what James said. They saw the title, their eyes rolled back in their heads and they just started typing nasty shite about a topic they know nothing about. I have seen many comments in every video James has done that even mentions Eternabond about how he must be sponsored by some tape competitor because thats the only reason why he wouldn't like it, personally as consistent as the attacks are It seems like Eternabond is the one who is sponsoring trolls to attack anyone that dares say anything bad about the product.
James has said MANY TIMES that the main reason he doesn't like it is because it is so often installed incorrectly, used in the wrong way, and used to hide glaring issues that should have been repaired before the tape was installed.
I really fail to see why its so hard to comprehend that he doesn't like Eternabond because he sees it installed or used incorrectly all the time, then he has to fix the actual problem that wasn't fixed correctly originally. Tons of comments on every single video about an Eternabond failures about how it was installed wrong, bad prep, whatever, the commenters are actually making James point, its installed incorrectly ALL THE TIME.
James is not hurting for work, there was a comment "what do you care its billable hours", people with integrity don't think that way, they want to get the job done correctly and move on to the next one, how many hours they can milk out of the job never occurs to them.
I really don't get this quasi religion around Eternabond, its literally like a cult of some kind. I am going back and watching all of James old videos and its interesting that usually 99% of the comments are positive about what a great job he does until Eternabond is mentioned in the video, then BOOM 50% negative comments about what a hack James is. And most of the commenters clearly didn't watch or listen to the video, Pathetic.
I own a 2021 KZ sportsman, the rear and side roof gutter trims I assume have a butyl tape behind them and maybe a small bead of sealant at the roof membrane to top of trim joint with exposed trim screws the length of these pieces.
I see this as a potential spot for water access.
Is my concern valid and\or is there a solution to cover the screw heads or other solution to attempt to keep water out?
Thanks and thanks for taking the time to post and make your videos, I've been watching many of them 🙏
Ok second question, i see a ton of rv videos of people putting eternabond over their sealant on their skylights and such and your saying don't do this ?
So what you would you recommend to use instead?
If you maintain the Eternabond tape with a little sealer on the joints , it will last a VERY long time. If you get some cuts just add more Eternatape. Also if to have to remove it - use a hair dryer on hot and seal on top with a rubberized sealer - no big deal. After 10 to 15 years the whole membrane will probably need replacing anyways.
Would have nice to have another person to help but looks like it’s going to be fine , I agree with you if it has a leak fix it right
Going by the images in the video, it looks like the initial prep work was severely lacking. Combine that with the Arizona sun, and I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did.
Thanks for the video... You do such great work... Highly competent... Thank you for sharing your experience... Our coach has lived most of it's 21 year life indoors or at least under a cover that protects it from the sun and weather... I'm just fascinated by your videos that illustrate what can happen to a lot of rigs that are continually exposed to the elements... Lots to learn!...
It's my pleasure and Thanks for watching! :)
what do you think about roll on roofing
they put that on my dads roof
Will Eternabond handle freezing Canadian winters?
Yes but you need to inspect it every 6 months.
this might seem like a strange question, but where are you? it seems like just a place to work on your own RV?
It wasn't prepped correctly or it wasn't Eternabond or both. 100s of videos of Eternabond for over 10+ years, no leaks, not worn out.
That tape looks like it is more difficult to work with than Eternabond. I like the floor roller for smoothing/pressurizing the adhesive. Well done James. Hardest working man in the RV business.
Thank you...I did want to put Eternabond on it but the pandemic has made everything so difficult
@@AZExpert indeed. You can't use what isn't available.
I have a 45' RV that the "entire roof" has been replaced with 4" strips of eternabond(knockoff). Ill add its been holding up quite nicely. I'd like you to replace it with genuine eternabond. James response @18:07 ! :0 :0 : (ya know Im kidding right?) Really though used properly? I think the stuff is great. but no matter the application dealing with the stuff sucks! thanks for the up!
That would be an expensive roof!
Are you in Los Angeles? I need my over cabin repaired.
Eternabond is sold under other names including Ultrabond. Available at ACE hardware
Thanks!
Everything you mentioned is user error, not product error. I can't fathom why the owner of that coach thought putting eternabond over the top of an existing failure was going to solve the issue. Eternabond is only going to work as well as what it sticks to. I understand what you are staying though. Back in the day, we used to have customers bring us their non walkable aluminum roof with the the entire thing covered in roofing tar. Evidently, plasti-cote was too expensive. It was cheaper than the repair bill to fix what they botched. Lol
it works 100% of the time 60% of the time
@@AZExpert sounds about right.
Wow why would you put tape on slide out if you have a awning going over it anyway
Problem with that old installation of the tape, sealant was used under it. Put it on without sealant.
Looks like you put some sealant on then the tape over that ?
I feel your pain. It’s a great product, but absolutely a train wreck to remove. I work down the street, we met at the training session at Cardinal Stadium.
Great video, why not use liquid rubber? Maybe you said you’re not keeping it? Thanks
Always learn something from your channel, thanks for making the vids!
Glad you like them!
Good job. What would be the best repair for that slideout?
My opinion is not to have tape as the wiper seal drags across it.....but as the factory did it already, it would be difficult to get every little sticky bit out, so the new tape will cover the sticky parts that would have damaged the wiper/bulb seal.
I already told him above. I am a roofing contractor in az.Been roofing for 37 years.
What do you recommend using?
Would love if you make a video on a temporary fix for a 3-in tear in the synthetic fabric on top of the main slide. We are primarily in very hot climates (FL, TX, AZ.) We got caught in a hail storm during winter travel and got damage in about three spots on top of the slide. This is a 2005 RV that we will be selling in about 6 months to buy another one. For that reason we are not wanting to replace the synthetic fabric or install toppers. We've spent over $10,000 in one year on repairs from the previous (not so honest) owners so at this point we're done.
We agree that Eterna bond is a mess and have considered using awning tape on the slide fabric. Cannot find a video anywhere on UA-cam about this. ☹️
Great videos, I would like to see a video on your recomdations on roof maintence and minor repairs. Thanks
Great suggestion! I'm always so busy but maybe next time I'm on a roof I'll try to make a quick video. Thanks!
You are missing a huge ASMR possibility here! 😏
Also, what's the alternative?
Really enjoy your videos. Have a QUESTION: 2020 Jayco Whitehawk 24 MBH. (29’ bunk house). One slide. Top corner driver side right at the slide edge that sucks up against the inside wall. Slide was off and created a small tear in some of that “gathered” or “folded” roof material. Used eternabond for emergency. Starting to fail. Is replacing roof material on slide the only good option?
as a permanent solution? yes
Curious as to why not use aluminum flashing?also heat the eternabond with a heat gun and it softens it to come off easier
Well i really dislike the tar adhesive of aluminum flashing and the metal edge can damage the rubber wiper seal, the aluminum does not form as well around many edges which can cause tearing of the tape which ruins the tape. No need for a heat gun in the Arizona sun.
@@AZExpertthen you’re not using the proper flashing tape. Window flashing tape is $13 a roll and lasts 10 years once you coat it, or longer. Comes off with mineral spirits.
It's funny I just came across your channel because I actually just moved from Arizona how do you work out there in the summertime?
every year I swear I'm done that's for sure.
Can the air bubbles be heated out🤔(heat gun)
Problem with heat gun is it can melt the rubber epdm and cause it to pull and curl back.
hi you kept saying eternabond is just a band aid on roof leaks, you said fix it correctly. How do you fix roof leaks correctly without redoing the whole roof?
Everything is going to be a bandaid until you can't get away with it any more
@@AZExpert OK thanks for responding. Can I or should I put Eternabond on my front seam that keeps leaking. I have a Class C bought almost new in 2008 , over my bunk leaks? Just a girl trying to fix my camper cant afford a new roof. Last year paid 1200.00 to seal up roof. I understood there was no guarantee. That seam leaked again anyway. And those little orange lights leaked too. Water is a blessing and a curse lol. There are so many videos with so much different advice. I have learned a lot from yours. I watch some over and over lol. Thanks for the great information! You clean like a king!!! I have always thought you should make sure its clean before you repair anything. Have a great day.
I’m shopping for my first RV. Are there any particular roof and wall materials and construction techniques that I should be looking for or avoiding with respect to longevity and ease of maintenance and repair?
In general, gel-coat fiberglass roofs are the best. EPDM is thicker than TPO membranes and PVC roofs seem to be better than both of those so far. Motorhomes do tend to have much different build qualities while most towables are made the same from the same components. My only suggestions is to rent first and the less automation the best.
@@AZExpertthe problem with rvs is everything costs higher because “RV” and it’s all one big scam.
As a former automotive graphics installer I would have used a heat gun to take that tape off. Wouldn't that work in this application?
Gulf Stream did the eterna bond tape job on the top of the slide out on my new vintage cruiser. Good thing it’s a small slide.
Glad to hear it's not leaking!
It is a magical compound if you do it right. I've seen them last over 10 years. And it's not recommended on a slide or as the only thing on the roof, it's only supposed to go over current roof. Already you can see eternabond tape should not have been used here.
It has its uses
I agree, flashing tape with a coating is best. I’ve used both.
There is a drove of snowbirds heading your way! Because of this video, you might be doing this all winter! lol
Thank you....but I hope not. :)
What do you think about the fabric backed stuff? I have a used class A that has a number of seals covered with the fabric stuff. It seems fine right now however, I dread that day that I have to clean those up and reseal. Hopping that the fabric backed tape could potentially be a long term solution so I do not have to mess with it in the near future.
I am not really sure I am familiar with that seal
@@AZExpert Gotcha. Its basically eternabond but with a fabric backing instead of the white stuff.
John M.....I put that stuff on my Residential roof. My Roof is exposed to the sun All day, No shade from trees. Just Good ol' South Texas sun beating on it 15 hrs a day. We just had our coldest winter in decades and 2 yrs ago was one of the Wettest years ever. Well after 5 yrs that stuff is STILL going strong. If you Want it to last Much longer, clean it by giving it a nice Brushing with a soft bristle brush (like a shoe shine brush), and nice cleaning to the immediate area around it and "bordering" it. The tape I used is 4 inches wide, so what I'd do is get either the 8 inch wide Eterna bond or the Aluminum Peel n Seal tape, and center it on that Fabric backed taped (the length of the fabric tape you are trying to cover). Now listen carefully to the next step because it may not seem important but it is: Cover the EDGES of the Eterna bond or Aluminum Peel n Seal tape with an 1 inch overlap of Thin Aluminum tape or Silver Duct tape. God bless.
So do you have a better solution to eternabond tape?
depends on the situation
Use Flex Seal around the edges of the tape along the the sides of anything vertical!
great
No. Flex seal is the worst product you can use.
Comes up easier with a heat gun but I guess solvents and brute force work to
I have not found heat guns do any better but cause more issues
Was thinking about using the eternabond tape on my roof seams prior to rolling on a new roof just for extra seam protection. Would that be a good application or use of the tape?
I watched the whole video and I don’t understand. You used tape in an area that had tape, but said it was used wrong. What did I miss?
It wasn’t sealed properly under the tape first because it’s not flashing tape. Eternabond is just a top cover tape. It’s also overpriced.
Was that the factory application of tape? Which would make it 12 years old at thing point. Since when is lasting 12 years a bad thing on any RV?
This question is a little off topic (and I know it is not used for slide roofs), but what is your experience/opinion of Flex Armor. This is not the roll on roof coating, but a sprayed on polyurea that produces a seamless roof. Thanks and I enjoy your videos!
My opinion is that it is a good product and I'm surprised manufacturers are not using it..........however, my only real concerns are that all the vents,skylights and trims are under the rv armor. Vents, skylights, and solar panels break and in order to replace them and maintain the warranty the roof company has to do it. Also, RV are road vehicles and hit things or are hit so again I have concerns about repairs. Thanks!
Drove by your shop in Yuma, ghost town. Did you move or close down for C-19.
It's a common confusing issue. My shop is not in Yuma, we just thought the same when we named our companies. Thanks!
Where are you located?
Hello, I like your videos, just wish you were closer to Colorado.
I've been researching about the wire carrying E chains that Forest River uses. All I find is lots of problems with them breaking. FR said they would send me a chain but I can't find any thing showing how to replace it. Do you have and videos showing how you do this? Thanks
I do not have a video on that. Usually, the plastic links have splits to allow the wiring to be removed and installed.
EternaBond is a great product but definitely not for every application. The hot Arizona sun will soften the sealant. If it's on an application where it's subject to lateral tension or an application like this where a secondary seal may rub against it as that pop-out goes back in, it may start to peal loose. Does a great job of "sealing" but is not structural at all. In other words don't hang pictures with it in your house :)
Theres better cheaper sealing tapes.
James-what is the best solution for sealing that end cap, especially the corners at the ends of the slide? I have a Schwintek slide with an aluminum cap. It has what appears to be butyl tape under it and nothing else running the edge over the EPDM. It doesn’t appear they have enough screws along the length and I am gathering it flexes when pulled into to the seals. I have had a leak in one corner with the slide open and a leak with it closes coming through one of the lower Schwintek rails. Thoughts? The whole system seems like a poor design, but that’s just me.
Without knowing the slide manufacturer, I'd say it really is likely a poor design. The easiest solution if the water is following the track inside is to make sure the slide is slightly downhill. If that doesn't help you might have to add a sloping gutter with a stop. I'd suggest looking at other slideouts on the side to see what I mean. Thanks!
@@AZExpert James, thanks for the response! Its a Coachman Apex Nano hybrid camper. The end cap is an aluminum flange all the way around. Not sure if that answers the question?! :) As always, love watching your videos!
I didn’t see you cleaning the surface with acetone or alcohol before putting the tape down. Mineral spirits will leave a film that may impact adhesion.
Heat works very well to remove the liner. No need to remove the micro sealant if you're going to put new Eternabond tape over it since the old sealant will become one with the new sealant. Surface prep and application technique is very important.
Thank you so much!
Love your squeeze bottle mineral spirits... Ever had to put eternabond tape on the inside of a slide...? Lotsa of fun...
So Much fun! :/
@@AZExpert Have been binge watching your videos and saw where you had to do just that..lol I am a retired Boat Capt turned RV tech for the past 7 years.. I would love to buy your Beaver.. I am looking for something good.. but here in SE Ga.. not much..
Great Video again. Not sure if you have listed on any of your videos what cleaners you use on different materials of a RV. i.e. Rubber roofing, Side walls, etc. when your putting it back together before you apply any of the Dicor products what do you clean with (Mineral Spirts or? Or What not to ever use.
Also how to tell what material the side wall or Front plastic might be, fiber glass or what? (specifically Thor Majestic)
Thanks again for making these videos and sharing you knowledge .
I have roof inspection series that hopefully covers most of those questions. Overall though, I recommend soap and water to clean anything on the exterior.
@@AZExpert Thanks for the response. I notice you use Dicor none levelling in several location where the putty was used originally. I have the trim off from the front to side seal and would like to use the dicor none levelling under it instead of any putty. Your thoughts?
Maybe I missed it ...but what IS a good option?
Depends on the application
So it’s a PIA to remove. More clock time. I’d like to know why and how it failed?
the slide seals were dragging hard on it due to the design of the slideout
@@AZExpert interesting. Probably not an application I would have used it for. But I like it use as a sealant on the roof seams and damaged areas. Really appreciate you videos. Keep up the good work!!
You might try a drywall pan to remove the waste from your scraper - instead of wiping it with a rag.
Thanks for watching! :)
Why don't you clean out all the rot and fungul infested wood before sealing it over? You will continue to have fungal infestation in the nearby good wood with mere condensation from the air after the area warms up during the day and later cools at night.
What rotted fungal infested wood? I didn't see any exposed wood in the entire video.
He sounds like he didn’t clean it very well. Plus you don’t want to put on slide outs, cause you got the rubber seals to pass
Dicor doesn’t last very long. RV repair centers recommend having it applied every 6 months. This is a big inconvenience and very costly. Insurance companies don’t cover leaking RV roofs. I denied a lot of RV roof leaks and people just had to throw their RV in the trash or pay over 10000 dollars to have a new roof put on out of their own pocket. This was the worst part of my job. A company called RV Armor will apply a material that will last over 10 years maybe more and they will guarantee it. The cost depends on your RV size but I believe they cost starts at about 3000.00. Do something because if you don’t your roof will eventually leak.
Window flashing tape.
Does using a heat gun help with the removal of the tape ?
Yes, but it was baking in the sun and over a 100 degrees already so heat gun was not necessary. Thanks!
Eternabond site has a removal video
Okay, okay, I did the same repair on my much smaller (thank goodness) slide out. I really worked hard on finding the leak that showed up on the floor at the inside end of the slide. The sidewall was damaged so after moving the slide in and deconstructing the sidewall, drying it out and rebuilding it, I finished by adding eternabond to the trim attachments and their corresponding 90 degree corners leading into the sidewall of the trailer, top and bottom (in this instance) 4 corners and 4 sides. I was horrified after all that work (I thought it look like a work of art) it still leaked? Turns out that the water was getting in by running out to the face of the open slide, over my repair and through the seem in the 90 degree trim that the outward seal was attached to. Once it got to the face of the slide it just traveled within the mitre of the face trim beneath the seal and then into the sidewall. To fix it, I had to force non leveling dicor into the 90 degree joint of the trim. Crazy extra work but worth the effort. You can't stop water, you can only direct it. Thanks for the videos.
I completely understand your situation. I am very hesistant to even work on slide leaks because it seems like thats what they were designed to do.
The scratches look like an EKG
Did you like how I pointed out that I didn't do it :)
@@AZExpert At least a couple of times.
Does anyone build a high quality trailer like the Spartan ?
most modern trailers are built by 4 major brands using the same components and materials, so the high quality builders were bought or closed.
@@AZExpert I bought a new Forrest River Gray Wolf 28BH in 2008, pulled it only twice, for 600 miles on good roads, and it still came unglued structurally where the wall meets the roof... while it was parked in the shed.. TOTAL JUNKY POS 😎 LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE IS THESE DAYS.. WELCOME TO CHINA
Looks like they put the eternibond on without cleaning below. Sucks for you. Good stuff if used properly.
60% of the time it work 100% of the time
You left the rag with mineral spirits sit on the roof membrane, not a good idea as you won’t see the damage but consider that your weakest spot now or the next.
Sharp eyes.
I hope my prep work was sufficient / used their cleaner and primer ... time will tell / I just need it to last me 6 years lol
Critical to your problem is the fact that eternabond does not stick to silicone. Before applying it, any trace of silicone would need to be removed. Clearly that was not done. Silicone is about the only thing it won't stick to. And the release tape you remove is siliconized for this reason.
you are correct that it won't stick to silicone, howver there was no silicone. The clear bead of sealant is proflex which is not silicone based at all. The problem is it gets hot in the sun and slide seals drag with pressure and begin to peel the tape off. Thanks!
How about using a heat gun to soften that butyl so it will pull up easier???
the sun does a good job usually.