Steven Lee Bob Ross was a Master Sargent in the US Army, which he served for 20 years. The only thing lame is your comment. Too bad he’s not around to kick your ass.
Amazing we have UA-cam now. With masters like this to teach us. Daily, weekly. We could never learn skills at this pace and accuracy any other time in history.
I love that offset chisel. I always turned over a regular chisel to use bevel down for a job like that, but this is so much better. I'm off to fire up my torch, bend and re-temper a few old spares I have lying around.
I am going to attempt this on a 12 String Yamaha my son got for little money. He got a quote from a " luthier" claiming it wasn't worth his time. Thanks for the info about run out. Always so informative your videos!
thanks very much for an easy to understand explanation of runout. In some sources I've read about musical instruments (I'm making a Baroque Lute), it states that runout is cosmetic, but obviously it's structural too ! :) :)
What a great channel! Just had a $400 Lag guitar pop its bridge. It seems to have had runout on one side of the bridge, and the finish extends 1/16 under the bridge. Very instructive!
I dont know why this was recommended to me, however that was 2 weeks ago and im now working my way through the rest of his uploads. I love the youtube algorithm sometimes!
a good reason to get an older Yamaha classical: well made of good woods and done right and easy to buy used nowadays. Cordoba nowadays are plenty good for most players, especially the crossover models..
That's a fantastic model to show how run out occurs. I would have added that you can use a light source to see run out in tops as the two book matched halves will reflect light differently. Generally speaking though a little run out is typically not a problem.
Dan, great video. Thanks so much for posting it. do you recall if you had to do much wood fiber replacement prior to re-gluing the bridge? I'm doing the same thing now and scraped the remainder of the old fibers from the underside of the old bridge, to reglue to their old location on the guitar top. Any advice about leveling the area under the bridge before re-gluing? thanks
I had some spruce bracing stock from a major luthier supply outlet that had runout. I checked it by test cracking a sample brace and it broke just as you described here. I noted the angle of the crack and re-sawed the stock in the direction of the crack to make the braces much stronger.
Great video...as always. But don't you think you'd get a better (stronger and more repairable) glue joint if you'd used hide glue? I always think that, in the long run, Titebond creeps
How do you know that the guitar played in tune in the first place? You would hope that it did. Great video Dan. I only wish you could put out a video every day.
+Symon Fobbester Measuring the scale is a good start. Having placed the old saddle in the correct location, he can measure from the nut or the 12th fret.
Great video as usual. I have a question; why not have dowel pins from the bridge to the support underneath? I am sure there is a good reason, I am just interested to know why. Thank you.
Thanks for the video, just what I was searching for. I would like to ask if it would be ok to first take care of the lifted (and/or missing) wood grain, lifting it a bit and getting wood glue in the cracks, then letting it dry and in the end sanding the surface down to "flatness" so it was ready for the glueing of the bridge? Could you use Titebond Original for both procedures or should I use CA glue to soak in the wood under the bridge? Cheers.
Dan, you've obviously not stopped thinking about all these things because you leave nothing out. It is truly the most comprehensive forensic work i can remember seeing. As far as the gluing is concerned, how do you feel about using a thin shellac first to penetrate the wood fibers and then a finish coat to create a monolithic surface for the glue? I have found that shellac is a miracle worker in very different situations.
Great ideas to sell very expensive tools sold by Stew mac. After you purchase the tools, you'll probably realize you could have bought 3 guitars of this sort instead of spending the money on repair tools. Instead of showing the repair with these expensive tools, could you demonstrate the fix using common household items like rubber bands and heavy books as clamps?
Any ideas on what can be used to level out the area under a removed bridge that has pulled out some wood fibers on one end of the bridge, and therefore the entire area is not perfectly flat for a re-glue of the bridge.
Not Dan's words but mine, I'll just toss in the mix. I try to salvage fibers from the underside of the old bridge by scraping them off with a razor blade, after I boil the bridge. In the areas where there are no fibers (usually the smaller areas), I use clean sawdust and superglue and then scrape that down flat with a razor blade to get a nice, level gluing surface to glue the bridge to.
Okay I need help. I am young however I can't find what I'm looking for. The bridge on my guitar isn't fully off. One side of the bridge is off the nail. While the other side is tightly in place. I tried wiggling it but it won't work. Can someone help me please?
This is why galloup inlays their bridges. They completely finish the top, then run it through a CNC machine to basically inlay the bridge. Its not much, but it definitely keeps this crap from happening.
I often wondered if there's a reason that the bridge couldn't be screwed down. I know its a horrible thing to suggest, but if a bridge flies during a performance, that could be trouble.
Alex Tworkowski glue can often times be stronger than mechanical fasteners. Also every hole you drill could potentially crack and a whole new problem arises.
coffeefish when glued its actuslly stronger than fatseners alone. The more holes you drill the more you compromise the structural integrity of something IE very thin wood.
I get it, that a glued joint can be stronger than the wood. But the flaw in this guitar was not just a bad bridge install, it's also a top with bad grain. Some type of backing might not be easy and it might change the sound; just saying I would (and did) consider it.
I have an old dried out 50 year old guitar with a cedar top, that the bridge peeled away with a lot of cedar fibers attached...now I was going to glue it back in place as was suggested in another vid, using Titebond 3. I was also considering sanding the cedar down and putting on a new rosewood bridge... What should I do? Also, should I humidify the guitar first??? Thanks
Is it okay to use a slow cure epoxy in place of the tite-bond? I've had better luck with slow cure than wood glue where strength is needed in projects. Another great video. I could watch all day.
Could you do a video on drilling strap lock holes I'm scared I'm gonna crack the finish on my acoustic guitar! I want to do the whole on the body of the guitar not on the neck joint
+Rachel Jeanne Music The body isn't designed to hold a strap button; it's just not thick enough unless you're drilling into a block of wood like the neck block or heel of the neck. Mark the hole with a nail or scribe and start the drill bit in reverse. You'll be good.
Although the side of body is not thick enough for a strap button if a piece of wood is glued on the inside of guitar (crossing wood grains) it spreads the load. I recently did one and used a small nut and bolt (instead of the customary screw). The tone is not affected (being near the neck block) and the nut and bolt makes a far better bond than a single screw, screws have been known to pull out or even split the heel of guitar.
The wood that the bridge is glued to could have been substantially strengthened by using a very low-viscosity epoxy such as is available from System 3. The epoxy would penetrate well into the wood and then cure hard, binding all the wood fibers together. Once that cured, and after a light sanding, the bridge would have to be glued to the guitar with more epoxy, but this time a medium viscosity would be best.
I could watch this man work for hours, it's soothing and I always learn something. It's like "This Old House" for guitars.
Hes like Bob Ross. Without the lameness and stupid haircut.
Steven Lee Bob Ross was a Master Sargent in the US Army, which he served for 20 years. The only thing lame is your comment. Too bad he’s not around to kick your ass.
I no joke just was thinking the same thing in my brain 😂
Same, these videos relax me. Plus I play guitar and love this stuff
Reminds me of the Midway USA gunsmithing videos with Larry Potterfield
Amazing we have UA-cam now. With masters like this to teach us. Daily, weekly. We could never learn skills at this pace and accuracy any other time in history.
@Nickhead87 Hi and thanks, I agree. And hi me from 5 years ago.
This is good information about wood grain. Wood grain is an important thing to understand in carpentry of any variety.
I love that offset chisel. I always turned over a regular chisel to use bevel down for a job like that, but this is so much better. I'm off to fire up my torch, bend and re-temper a few old spares I have lying around.
That is a chisel that I have never seen in my life! I thought my blood sugar was acting up when I saw that thing! lol
Dan does a great job showing and teaching us all! Thanks to Dan and Stewmac for this wonderful service!
I am going to attempt this on a 12 String Yamaha my son got for little money. He got a quote from a " luthier" claiming it wasn't worth his time. Thanks for the info about run out. Always so informative your videos!
thanks very much for an easy to understand explanation of runout. In some sources I've read about musical instruments (I'm making a Baroque Lute), it states that runout is cosmetic, but obviously it's structural too ! :) :)
What a great channel! Just had a $400 Lag guitar pop its bridge. It seems to have had runout on one side of the bridge, and the finish extends 1/16 under the bridge. Very instructive!
I dont know why this was recommended to me, however that was 2 weeks ago and im now working my way through the rest of his uploads. I love the youtube algorithm sometimes!
a good reason to get an older Yamaha classical: well made of good woods and done right and easy to buy used nowadays. Cordoba nowadays are plenty good for most players, especially the crossover models..
I'm actually currently fixing an older Yamaha classical with same problem as this one.
That's a fantastic model to show how run out occurs. I would have added that you can use a light source to see run out in tops as the two book matched halves will reflect light differently. Generally speaking though a little run out is typically not a problem.
Be cool to apprentice under him to truly carry his knowledge to the next generations
Dan, great video. Thanks so much for posting it. do you recall if you had to do much wood fiber replacement prior to re-gluing the bridge? I'm doing the same thing now and scraped the remainder of the old fibers from the underside of the old bridge, to reglue to their old location on the guitar top. Any advice about leveling the area under the bridge before re-gluing? thanks
Great video, as always but I wonder why Dan didn't clean up and re-mount the old bridge? It didn't look damaged to me.
I am always blown away by this man. Incredible.
Dan is a smooth operator!
Dan, these videos are excellent. Thanks!
Good stuff Dan! Bummer about the brand new D35. That's a great memory though. Cheers, Chris
I had some spruce bracing stock from a major luthier supply outlet that had runout. I checked it by test cracking a sample brace and it broke just as you described here. I noted the angle of the crack and re-sawed the stock in the direction of the crack to make the braces much stronger.
An impressive channel. Really professional.
Skilled craftsman right there! Wow
Thanks. I learned something today ;)
Dan, you are the man, Hands Down, thanks for the video, Cousin Figel
Great video...as always. But don't you think you'd get a better (stronger and more repairable) glue joint if you'd used hide glue? I always think that, in the long run, Titebond creeps
I love this show; you guys should get your own Netflix special!
How do you know that the guitar played in tune in the first place? You would hope that it did.
Great video Dan. I only wish you could put out a video every day.
+Symon Fobbester Measuring the scale is a good start. Having placed the old saddle in the correct location, he can measure from the nut or the 12th fret.
Great video as usual. I have a question; why not have dowel pins from the bridge to the support underneath? I am sure there is a good reason, I am just interested to know why. Thank you.
What a freaking legend.
what an inspiration. very fine work!
Thanks for the video, just what I was searching for. I would like to ask if it would be ok to first take care of the lifted (and/or missing) wood grain, lifting it a bit and getting wood glue in the cracks, then letting it dry and in the end sanding the surface down to "flatness" so it was ready for the glueing of the bridge? Could you use Titebond Original for both procedures or should I use CA glue to soak in the wood under the bridge? Cheers.
This is so informative. Thank you.
Dan, you've obviously not stopped thinking about all these things because you leave nothing out. It is truly the most comprehensive forensic work i can remember seeing. As far as the gluing is concerned, how do you feel about using a thin shellac first to penetrate the wood fibers and then a finish coat to create a monolithic surface for the glue? I have found that shellac is a miracle worker in very different situations.
Great channel! Thank you
Than you your explanation was perfect!
Hello from Belleville Michigan 👋
Great explanation of run out!!
Thank you very much :)
I love to watch him
He does everything correct
interesting, thanks for the tips ☺
wait, Ann arbor Michigan? I'm just twelve miles from there!
Great ideas to sell very expensive tools sold by Stew mac. After you purchase the tools, you'll probably realize you could have bought 3 guitars of this sort instead of spending the money on repair tools. Instead of showing the repair with these expensive tools, could you demonstrate the fix using common household items like rubber bands and heavy books as clamps?
Any ideas on what can be used to level out the area under a removed bridge that has pulled out some wood fibers on one end of the bridge, and therefore the entire area is not perfectly flat for a re-glue of the bridge.
Not Dan's words but mine, I'll just toss in the mix. I try to salvage fibers from the underside of the old bridge by scraping them off with a razor blade, after I boil the bridge. In the areas where there are no fibers (usually the smaller areas), I use clean sawdust and superglue and then scrape that down flat with a razor blade to get a nice, level gluing surface to glue the bridge to.
I'm wondering as a good rule of thumb to not use quarter sawn for that... how then to choose good quarter sawn pieces for other applications
Nice work!
Your tops Mr Dan
Don't forget to de-grease oily wood before you glue.
New at this but I built a classical guitar in got my bride about 1/2 inch of am I going to be able to tune it
DAN THE MAN IF CAN'T FIX IT NO ONE CAN.
I wish he had a tv show
Okay I need help. I am young however I can't find what I'm looking for. The bridge on my guitar isn't fully off. One side of the bridge is off the nail. While the other side is tightly in place. I tried wiggling it but it won't work. Can someone help me please?
This is why galloup inlays their bridges. They completely finish the top, then run it through a CNC machine to basically inlay the bridge. Its not much, but it definitely keeps this crap from happening.
That is a very crappy thing to do by manufacturers. I mean, if they know the wood is cut the wrong way, why use it? To reduce cost?
I often wondered if there's a reason that the bridge couldn't be screwed down. I know its a horrible thing to suggest, but if a bridge flies during a performance, that could be trouble.
Alex Tworkowski glue can often times be stronger than mechanical fasteners. Also every hole you drill could potentially crack and a whole new problem arises.
My first thought was that it should be through bolted with a backing plate.
coffeefish when glued its actuslly stronger than fatseners alone. The more holes you drill the more you compromise the structural integrity of something IE very thin wood.
I get it, that a glued joint can be stronger than the wood. But the flaw in this guitar was not just a bad bridge install, it's also a top with bad grain. Some type of backing might not be easy and it might change the sound; just saying I would (and did) consider it.
I have an old dried out 50 year old guitar with a cedar top, that the bridge peeled away with a lot of cedar fibers attached...now I was going to glue it back in place as was suggested in another vid, using Titebond 3. I was also considering sanding the cedar down and putting on a new rosewood bridge... What should I do? Also, should I humidify the guitar first??? Thanks
0:58...did he actually cut into the wood with that Xacto knife?
Is it okay to use a slow cure epoxy in place of the tite-bond? I've had better luck with slow cure than wood glue where strength is needed in projects.
Another great video. I could watch all day.
The master
hello can you tell me what kind of glue did you use to fix the bridge ? i am from argentina .
I'm surprised Dan didn't use the old tried and true Hide Glue
He needed more working time.
this guy is great
That's the same glue we use in shop class....its also the same glue I used to glue the wood together on my guitar that I'm building in shop
I still miss herb davids. TT
Could you do a video on drilling strap lock holes I'm scared I'm gonna crack the finish on my acoustic guitar! I want to do the whole on the body of the guitar not on the neck joint
+Rachel Jeanne Music
The body isn't designed to hold a strap button; it's just not thick enough unless you're drilling into a block of wood like the neck block or heel of the neck. Mark the hole with a nail or scribe and start the drill bit in reverse. You'll be good.
Although the side of body is not thick enough for a strap button if a piece of wood is glued on the inside of guitar (crossing wood grains) it spreads the load. I recently did one and used a small nut and bolt (instead of the customary screw). The tone is not affected (being near the neck block) and the nut and bolt makes a far better bond than a single screw, screws have been known to pull out or even split the heel of guitar.
Genius!
The wood that the bridge is glued to could have been substantially strengthened by using a very low-viscosity epoxy such as is available from System 3. The epoxy would penetrate well into the wood and then cure hard, binding all the wood fibers together. Once that cured, and after a light sanding, the bridge would have to be glued to the guitar with more epoxy, but this time a medium viscosity would be best.
and then the bridge flew off again...
I'm surprised not to see more epoxy used. And I think that bridge should be through bolted.
Buy a Taylor next time.
learning how to fix guitars and how to cut wood, woo!