Why the 16 thumbs down 🤷♂️ Jealousy? Our trolls ? This man is a highly skilled luthier! It's plain to see if you take a look at some of his videos,if I lived close he would be my go to guy no question.
A nice trick for the washers on the inside bit of the jack: use the stickum that comes on the back of discount cards and such to hold the washers in place - it holds the washer in place very securely so they don’t slip around, and compresses beautifully when tightening from the outside.
Ironic that the ho hum, no-interesting-repair day should be such a treasure trove of useful pro tips. In addition to being an obvious master luthier, you communicate your expertise in an amazingly accessible way. Other than the absence of hands-on instruction, your videos are equal to a very good guitar repair workshop that I attended at the American School of Lutherie. Thank you again for sharing your expertise. I absolutely love your videos.
I agree with your statement. This was just the right amount of time and information in this video. So many other people would have turned this into a 6 part series and stuttered their way through . Awesome work and lots of great knowledge
I buy a Pre Historic LP on a USA trip 1992. Thanks for the advise for the risk of the Predetermined breaking point. I am impressed of the rebuilding of the Hopeless Headstock Desaster. Bravo.
Fab Vid!!! Really like the "Day to Day" stuff, please do more. Being a huge Gretsch fan, would suggest for the 5120 looking into a Tru-Arc Compensated Bridge. Made specifically for each Gretsch model. Tried one out myself quite a while ago after hearing how great they were various Gretsch Players. May want to check it out. PS Thanks so much for your vids, entertaining and very educational. Cheers
Thanks for share your knowledge and experience I allways learn of you and that help me solve some guitar problema, I started to repair guitars and maintenemence making a luthier Work in my City and there is a wonderfull labor thanks for all, and happy New year
Absolutely love your videos. Just a tip with the anthem install. The under saddle element hates right angles. So drilling a new hole at around 45° is what they recommend. Additionally, the last 1/16".(sorry I don't do metric) should be recessed into the treble side of the spot as it is not active. Not trying to knock your work, just sharing info. As someone in the industry, again, I want to compliment your attention to detail. And I will be following your dual scale build for sure. Cheers from VA!
agreed, baggs Element piezos need to come in at an angle. the other thing i've started doing with anthem installs is tucking the control module just under the edge of the soundhole, such that the customer can put in a soundhole plug if needed. sometimes that means adding little wood shims or something so it clears. anyway yeah, this channel is fantastic
Great content, I love your channel, I beleive that hummingbird has a highly figured Bubinga back Bubinga is in the rosewood family, I really do not think that there will be any major cracking issues with that flat sawn back as long as it was dried properly & The bracing is done properly, I live in New England very cold winters & hot summers, I built a Tennor Ukulele two years ago I used a beautiful flat sawn walnut for the back and I have not had any issues so far. I also have a guitar with a back like that hummingbird its well over 15yrs old it has never split or cracked. I strongly believe that guitar wood being thinned to 2mm or so really changes how we normally think of wood movement such as in furniture cabinets ect.. Sorry for the rant Again thanks I cant wait too see your 7 string come to life.
I've worked with a lot of bubinga, and this seems to be E.I. RW. I don't mind flatsawn wood - I prefer it for maple necks. I'm more concerned with the amount of runout here. Maybe I'm paranoid, - I spend a lot of time fixing cracks.
Man I miss every day repair work. Also, when planning things… Like you showed in your video with the thin Ebony… I have a set up use for violin ribs stock, or any other type of thin work… Basically just a really thin piece of timber that sits between two bench dogs, just below the surface of my ribs stock. Allows me to plane without having to clamp or glue anything. Things like a good Shooting board, bench hook, well positioned dog holes and various means of work holding to go along with them… Are the most valuable things in my shop. there are a lot of variations on the net. the simpler the better. Most of my highly thought at work holding fixtures are indistinguishable between scrap wood LOL There was an amazing article a few years ago that I actually cut out and stuck aside. Describing all of the various work holding methods dating back to the Roubo workbench design and even modern violin makers fixtures. If you would like a copy just shoot me your email.
Quilted maple is all flat sawn. I agree that back wood that is flat sawn should be laminated for best durability. Love your videos very informative . Thumbs up!
Maple seems a little more stable than rosewood. I know I've fixed some cracked maple backs and sides but it happens so infrequently it's hard to remember them.
Have you thought about the old Larson Brothers design of sandwiching rosewood between spruce for your bracing. Tony Klassen replicates this in his Larson Euphonon models. Sometimes the old ways are the best. I really like the idea of graphite as a truss-rod to lighten up the builds and making the neck stiff without adding mass. I have an 42' LOO that has an ebony rod instead of truss-rod. The mass of the mahogany neck gives it the most unusual tone, unlike other L-OO's of its time. War time shortage leads to a great idea and its one of the straightest necks i have.
I have, yes, and I'm really fond of the Larson designs. In this case I was striving to reduce the mass as much as possible. You can make the vertical Larson lamination with carbon fiber and save some weight, but it makes shaping the braces really difficult, -edge tools can't cut it so you have to sand and then the black dust gets into every pore of the spruce. I wasn't willing to experiment on this particular build.
Please document the building process more. I am really interested in your approach. Especially since you're doing these unorthodox things such as planing that scarf joint to weird shapes and using carbon fiber on the braces.
Not sure I can properly describe how I do fan fret peg heads but here goes.. If possible my neck stock is slightly thicker than normal and I glue up the scarf joint as per normal (no angles) then I mark the angle needed @ the nut and plane that into the peg head. This results in one side of the peg head being thinner than the other. Now since the peg head is thicker than normal I can flip it and thickness from the back side using a small drum sander (made by Model Machines) something like the luthier's friend spindle sander attachment would also work.. Make sense??? Only done this a couple of times but it has working, just finishing one now, of course no photos of the actual process... Very interesting channel BTW...
Looking back on the video I could see the imprint of a previous jack washer. I think the original owner had installed and subsequently removed a pickup. Drilling for a jack isn't that bad! It just saved me a few minutes. :)
Check out the higher end Dingwall basses. Their headstocks are tilted slightly down on the treble side. I never noticed until you mentioned it in this video. It's not a problem form me.
I had the same issue with a 2420T. There were other issues, and it was "new", so I just returned it. But yeah, the strings sounded dead and slightly buzzy around the middle of the fret board on the low E-string, even with high action (the neck relief was fine, and the strings were clearing the frets). It was fine if I had headphones on (pups weren't picking up the buzz), but without headphones? Oof.
I've got a huge problem with fret buzz on my Epiphone Emperor Regent. The problem here is caused by popped frets though. It would be a simple and cheap fix. If, I already had all of the tools and materials required. I wish there were someone local here that I could trust to do this repair.
Question: did you consider putting the tow on the bottom of the braces, where it could be stretched rather, than compressed? I think you might get some extra strength there.
just wanted to say thank you for the nice videos you do. they give me a lot of motivation ,they inspire me to follow my path. now for a tough one :D what kind of machine was that you used to sharpen your knife? cheers from berlin germany
Interesting about the Gretsch bridge, I've played a few over the years and have always noticed that slight buzz when playing acoustic, sounds like a, though not serious, design fault?
the grain immediately made me think 'snake skin' wow. you know in 1960's and earlier we put rattlesnake rattles inside the guitar, on arch tops, of course, kaycrafts , harmonys, etc. and fiddles oh yeah
I love your videos! But I've had some serious frustration lately: Before each video I am force fed two advertisements... totaling 3-7 minutes before I can watch a 5 minute video... and there is no skipping of ads allowed or offered. If this directly benefits you I'll deal with it, hopefully this is a revenue stream for you?
Don't know what the deal is with Gibson. I've seen so much weird stuff and quality issues. Laminated bridge plates is a good example of not so great instrument building as an example. Weird part is, you never know what you'll get, unlike a US made Martin, where it is very consistent in a particular time period.
Totally personal question and don't really expect an answer from twoodfrd, but does anyone know how much money a typical luthier pulls down a year? I've always wondered and have long fantasized about quitting my boring job, learning how to luth and living happily ever after... My favorite fantasy (yeah, i'm old...) Great channel...
There is no such thing as a typical luthier, so it's hard to quantify. Most of us live a subsistence existence. You would make less money than you make now, and you would work many more hours. I'd like you to imagine your most boring workday, and then picture doing it without pay. That's luthiery. You've got to do about eight years of that to become proficient. We all harbor romantic notions, but this job is all about breathing fumes and aching backs and bizarre, sometimes irrational customers. If you've heard that and are undeterred, you might be suited to it!
@@twoodfrd Thank you! What a great answer. I suppose the grass really is always greener, right? Guess I'll stick to my boring job and just fantasize, and leave luthiery to the folks who do it so well, like yourself.
As someone who does this line of work full time as well, I can verify everything Ted said. The income is rather lackluster, the work days are long and tiring (both mentally and physically), and clients can sometimes be insufferable. And it takes years and years to accumulate the skills and tools to be able to do this kind of work for others with any confidence. Kind of a hobby turned into a profession for most of us.
Sounds like being a mechanic, crazy customers, odd requests, long hours etc. I may be cut out for luthier work after all. I'm a banjo player well I'm trying and would love to learn more. I guess you just have to do and learn
HiTod ! Just to ask you how to contact you about you doing an LP shape neck but those that goes on the 1970s Deluxe with the Volute on the headstock back area. I happen to have a Pancake era LP body and no neck ! I would love to have the exact sandwich type neck as it was built at the Gib*** Kalamazoo factory. Maybe it is a very old LP guitar kit but the body is with lots of paint wear so maybe at one time the headstock broke and the decided to take the neck out ! Who knows but the body has paint and probably it was the gold one ! And that one is rare to find ! Do you have an email that I can reach you ? We are quite far from each other but since you are such a nice human i believe you are the go to man for this job ! Or maybe I can buy some exact life size neck prints from you and i can try and built one with your help and of course i can pay you for this help ! Thank you !!
Nice some new content to enjoy my lunch to. You inspired me to pull out my old '65 Martin D-28 to clean up, and restring, and thats about the extent of my abilities. Even that job was mediocre at best but was satisfying none the less. Pick guard starting to look a little curly though haha
You built up the bridge on each side with super glue because it was too loose. Have you ever used a UV activated adhesive for applications such as this?
If you're in Canada my email is in the About section. If you're in the U.S. you should find someone in your area, because shipping a guitar back and forth across the border is crazy expensive and risky.
Best guitar repair channel on the tube. I always learn something new every time I watch.
Your patience and teaching vibe is an attribute to what you do and what we need to learn; Thank You
4:20 for me, one of the most valuable Information of this video. Thank you Sir!
Greetings.
Why the 16 thumbs down 🤷♂️ Jealousy? Our trolls ? This man is a highly skilled luthier! It's plain to see if you take a look at some of his videos,if I lived close he would be my go to guy no question.
Very interesting to see you working on these different projects. Thanks for posting.
A nice trick for the washers on the inside bit of the jack: use the stickum that comes on the back of discount cards and such to hold the washers in place - it holds the washer in place very securely so they don’t slip around, and compresses beautifully when tightening from the outside.
Ironic that the ho hum, no-interesting-repair day should be such a treasure trove of useful pro tips. In addition to being an obvious master luthier, you communicate your expertise in an amazingly accessible way. Other than the absence of hands-on instruction, your videos are equal to a very good guitar repair workshop that I attended at the American School of Lutherie. Thank you again for sharing your expertise. I absolutely love your videos.
I agree with your statement. This was just the right amount of time and information in this video. So many other people would have turned this into a 6 part series and stuttered their way through . Awesome work and lots of great knowledge
Really want to see more about that 7 string! Always great videos
I buy a Pre Historic LP on a USA trip 1992. Thanks for the advise for the risk of the Predetermined breaking point. I am impressed of the rebuilding of the Hopeless Headstock Desaster. Bravo.
You need a shop cat or a shop dog or both! I am quite the wordsmith and I learnt a new word: dichotic! Most enjoyable informative videos.
Fab Vid!!! Really like the "Day to Day" stuff, please do more.
Being a huge Gretsch fan, would suggest for the 5120 looking into a Tru-Arc Compensated Bridge. Made specifically for each Gretsch model. Tried one out myself quite a while ago after hearing how great they were various Gretsch Players. May want to check it out.
PS Thanks so much for your vids, entertaining and very educational. Cheers
Great work. Really enjoying your videos thank you
Enjoyable "grab bag" of work! You should make this a regular feature!
Excellent! Very enjoyable. Thanks for sharing!
This is great! A Day's Work is really interesting to me.
Seriously, this is one of the most informative subs I have. Thanks for another batch o' tips!
Love your chisel blade sharpener.
That buzz diagnose was awesome ... great job man.
Thanks for share your knowledge and experience I allways learn of you and that help me solve some guitar problema, I started to repair guitars and maintenemence making a luthier Work in my City and there is a wonderfull labor thanks for all, and happy New year
Interesting explanation of how woos are cut. I like quarter sawn .
Quality content, as usual.
Very interesting seven string build.
I honestly know how anyone gives videos like this a thumbs down. Great content and presentation.
Great tip on the superglue to tighten up the bridge. Thanks!
I have worked on TOM bridges that rattled because the saddles rocked on the adjustment screw. Great videos!
Another great video! I could watch these all day. Cheers! 👊
The Gibson bridge. Also, the carbon fiber add on for bracing sounds like a good idea for a 12 string acoustic guitar. Thanks!
Thanks so much for sharing!
Its pretty cool you do things old school..enjoyed the videos
Keep us updated on your 7 string build!
Very nice and interesting It's nice to see the different activities that you have to deal with !
Absolutely love your videos. Just a tip with the anthem install. The under saddle element hates right angles. So drilling a new hole at around 45° is what they recommend. Additionally, the last 1/16".(sorry I don't do metric) should be recessed into the treble side of the spot as it is not active. Not trying to knock your work, just sharing info. As someone in the industry, again, I want to compliment your attention to detail. And I will be following your dual scale build for sure. Cheers from VA!
agreed, baggs Element piezos need to come in at an angle.
the other thing i've started doing with anthem installs is tucking the control module just under the edge of the soundhole, such that the customer can put in a soundhole plug if needed. sometimes that means adding little wood shims or something so it clears.
anyway yeah, this channel is fantastic
I love these videos
Awesome dude. More on your lutherie/weird fanfretting 7-string projects please!
Perhaps the Hummingbird was once equipped for electric play. Maybe it was removed before selling used.
Thank you. Good night.
Great Video
You work is making repairs and building musical instruments. I spent many decades repairing and rebuilding a wastewater treatment plant.
The carbon fiber on the braces to make them stronger without a lot more mass is a very interesting idea. Really looking forward to seeing the results.
Great content, I love your channel, I beleive that hummingbird has a highly figured Bubinga back Bubinga is in the rosewood family, I really do not think that there will be any major cracking issues with that flat sawn back as long as it was dried properly & The bracing is done properly, I live in New England very cold winters & hot summers, I built a Tennor Ukulele two years ago I used a beautiful flat sawn walnut for the back and I have not had any issues so far. I also have a guitar with a back like that hummingbird its well over 15yrs old it has never split or cracked. I strongly believe that guitar wood being thinned to 2mm or so really changes how we normally think of wood movement such as in furniture cabinets ect.. Sorry for the rant Again thanks I cant wait too see your 7 string come to life.
I've worked with a lot of bubinga, and this seems to be E.I. RW. I don't mind flatsawn wood - I prefer it for maple necks. I'm more concerned with the amount of runout here. Maybe I'm paranoid, - I spend a lot of time fixing cracks.
Great! A luthier like you is needed in Croatia asap! :)
Man I miss every day repair work. Also, when planning things… Like you showed in your video with the thin Ebony…
I have a set up use for violin ribs stock, or any other type of thin work…
Basically just a really thin piece of timber that sits between two bench dogs, just below the surface of my ribs stock. Allows me to plane without having to clamp or glue anything. Things like a good Shooting board, bench hook, well positioned dog holes and various means of work holding to go along with them… Are the most valuable things in my shop.
there are a lot of variations on the net. the simpler the better. Most of my highly thought at work holding fixtures are indistinguishable between scrap wood LOL
There was an amazing article a few years ago that I actually cut out and stuck aside. Describing all of the various work holding methods dating back to the Roubo workbench design and even modern violin makers fixtures. If you would like a copy just shoot me your email.
Thanks a lot. As usual really enjoyed it.
Great work on that weird scarf joint!
Quilted maple is all flat sawn. I agree that back wood that is flat sawn should be laminated for best durability. Love your videos very informative . Thumbs up!
Maple seems a little more stable than rosewood. I know I've fixed some cracked maple backs and sides but it happens so infrequently it's hard to remember them.
Perhaps the owner of the Gibson should think about having you or someone else paint a sealer on the inside of the back.
A real master at work
Love it! I learned a couple new things. Thanks!
I have an Anthem on my D28.... Its so good. I put it through an AER Compact 60. = Heaven!.
Have you thought about the old Larson Brothers design of sandwiching rosewood between spruce for your bracing. Tony Klassen replicates this in his Larson Euphonon models. Sometimes the old ways are the best. I really like the idea of graphite as a truss-rod to lighten up the builds and making the neck stiff without adding mass. I have an 42' LOO that has an ebony rod instead of truss-rod. The mass of the mahogany neck gives it the most unusual tone, unlike other L-OO's of its time. War time shortage leads to a great idea and its one of the straightest necks i have.
I have, yes, and I'm really fond of the Larson designs. In this case I was striving to reduce the mass as much as possible. You can make the vertical Larson lamination with carbon fiber and save some weight, but it makes shaping the braces really difficult, -edge tools can't cut it so you have to sand and then the black dust gets into every pore of the spruce. I wasn't willing to experiment on this particular build.
Nice work!
beautiful!
Fun times ahead indeed.
Great video. A lot of really good info. Thanks!
Thank you for this video!
Please document the building process more. I am really interested in your approach. Especially since you're doing these unorthodox things such as planing that scarf joint to weird shapes and using carbon fiber on the braces.
The difference between the dove and the hummingbird is the body material, dove is maple back and sides, hummingbird is mahogany.
Not sure I can properly describe how I do fan fret peg heads but here goes.. If possible my neck stock is slightly thicker than normal and I glue up the scarf joint as per normal (no angles) then I mark the angle needed @ the nut and plane that into the peg head. This results in one side of the peg head being thinner than the other. Now since the peg head is thicker than normal I can flip it and thickness from the back side using a small drum sander (made by Model Machines) something like the luthier's friend spindle sander attachment would also work.. Make sense??? Only done this a couple of times but it has working, just finishing one now, of course no photos of the actual process... Very interesting channel BTW...
how did the carbon fiber work out?
I thought you were going to have to drill into that beautiful instrument. good thing it came pre-drilled from Gibson, whew!
Looking back on the video I could see the imprint of a previous jack washer. I think the original owner had installed and subsequently removed a pickup. Drilling for a jack isn't that bad! It just saved me a few minutes. :)
Really interested to hear how the 7 string sounds!
100% agree !!!
Love your videos also would like to know what that is the sharpener you used for your planer blade thanks for great content.
Check out the higher end Dingwall basses. Their headstocks are tilted slightly down on the treble side. I never noticed until you mentioned it in this video. It's not a problem form me.
Yes indeed. I made a mandolin a few years ago with the slant. I think it gets more noticable depending on how accurate the nut slant is.
If I owned a guitar repair shop I would call it "Lex the Luther"
As a woodworker, I know how hard it is to make a scarf joint that's not made with a machine. Nice work.
For various string lengths you could also use a wide compensated nut ala Trevor Gore, although I think the slanted nut might look a little neater.
I've got a zero fret to contend with, so I want to keep it close and simple.
@@twoodfrd makes sense. Thanks for sharing btw!
i never thought of the glue and tape trick, cool
Nice work
👍👍😎✌️
I had the same issue with a 2420T. There were other issues, and it was "new", so I just returned it. But yeah, the strings sounded dead and slightly buzzy around the middle of the fret board on the low E-string, even with high action (the neck relief was fine, and the strings were clearing the frets). It was fine if I had headphones on (pups weren't picking up the buzz), but without headphones? Oof.
I've got a huge problem with fret buzz on my Epiphone Emperor Regent. The problem here is caused by popped frets though. It would be a simple and cheap fix. If, I already had all of the tools and materials required.
I wish there were someone local here that I could trust to do this repair.
I can see at a glance thet the radius of the saddle is much smaller than the radius of the frets.
Dial caliper. Essential. Was the plug just press fit or was it glued in? I caught the part you didn't fill the ends.
Your work smells much better that a plugged sewer on Zug Island
Great video as usual. How long does it take you typically to install a pickup on an acoustic ?
Question: did you consider putting the tow on the bottom of the braces, where it could be stretched rather, than compressed? I think you might get some extra strength there.
just wanted to say thank you for the nice videos you do. they give me a lot of motivation ,they inspire me to follow my path. now for a tough one :D what kind of machine was that you used to sharpen your knife? cheers from berlin germany
Thank you! That is a Veritas Mark II sharpening system. I've had it for about ten years.
Planing planing planing.
Sanding sanding sanding
Quite amazing! I'd enjoyed this more than eating chocolate chip ice cream.
Interested in how the carbon fiber turns out.
If that's a Long&Mcquade hang tag any cracks and defects won't be a problem if they got the yearly extended warranty on it L&M will fix it 😉
Interesting about the Gretsch bridge, I've played a few over the years and have always noticed that slight buzz when playing acoustic, sounds like a, though not serious, design fault?
the grain immediately made me think 'snake skin' wow. you know in 1960's and earlier we put rattlesnake rattles inside the guitar, on arch tops, of course, kaycrafts , harmonys, etc. and fiddles oh yeah
I love your videos! But I've had some serious frustration lately:
Before each video I am force fed two advertisements... totaling 3-7 minutes before I can watch a 5 minute video... and there is no skipping of ads allowed or offered.
If this directly benefits you I'll deal with it, hopefully this is a revenue stream for you?
7 string! I’ve enough problems with 6.
Damn absolutely shitting on that first guy's guitar
Was the bridge plate made of plywood? Thanks!🎄
You ever done a solid body 7 string guitar ? I've always want a t style 7 string
Could you briefly explain the reason why Martin and other maker's as well make the tops and backs into a radius? I love learning from you
The simple answer is that an arch is a little stronger and if the wood shrinks due to dryness it can flatten out a little before it cracks.
@@twoodfrd Thank you sir for your time to reply. That make total sense to me. YOU ARE a true inspiration to me. Cheers from NC U SA
Don't know what the deal is with Gibson. I've seen so much weird stuff and quality issues. Laminated bridge plates is a good example of not so great instrument building as an example. Weird part is, you never know what you'll get, unlike a US made Martin, where it is very consistent in a particular time period.
Totally personal question and don't really expect an answer from twoodfrd, but does anyone know how much money a typical luthier pulls down a year? I've always wondered and have long fantasized about quitting my boring job, learning how to luth and living happily ever after... My favorite fantasy (yeah, i'm old...) Great channel...
There is no such thing as a typical luthier, so it's hard to quantify. Most of us live a subsistence existence. You would make less money than you make now, and you would work many more hours. I'd like you to imagine your most boring workday, and then picture doing it without pay. That's luthiery. You've got to do about eight years of that to become proficient. We all harbor romantic notions, but this job is all about breathing fumes and aching backs and bizarre, sometimes irrational customers. If you've heard that and are undeterred, you might be suited to it!
@@twoodfrd Thank you! What a great answer. I suppose the grass really is always greener, right? Guess I'll stick to my boring job and just fantasize, and leave luthiery to the folks who do it so well, like yourself.
As someone who does this line of work full time as well, I can verify everything Ted said. The income is rather lackluster, the work days are long and tiring (both mentally and physically), and clients can sometimes be insufferable. And it takes years and years to accumulate the skills and tools to be able to do this kind of work for others with any confidence. Kind of a hobby turned into a profession for most of us.
Sounds like being a mechanic, crazy customers, odd requests, long hours etc. I may be cut out for luthier work after all. I'm a banjo player well I'm trying and would love to learn more. I guess you just have to do and learn
Anyone notice that Gibson drilled the endpin hole off center?
10:03 i call that the tone stealing buzz
@twoodfrd Are you in Canada since thats from Long And Mcquade ?
HiTod !
Just to ask you how to contact you
about you doing an LP shape neck but those that goes on the 1970s Deluxe
with the Volute on the headstock back area.
I happen to have a Pancake era LP body and no neck !
I would love to have the exact sandwich type neck as it was built
at the Gib*** Kalamazoo factory.
Maybe it is a very old LP guitar kit but the body is with lots of paint wear
so maybe at one time the headstock broke and the decided
to take the neck out !
Who knows but the body has paint and probably it was the gold one !
And that one is rare to find !
Do you have an email that I can reach you ?
We are quite far from each other but since you
are such a nice human i believe you are the go to man
for this job !
Or maybe I can buy some exact life size neck prints from you
and i can try and built one with your help and of course i can pay
you for this help !
Thank you !!
So how many hours did that all take? How many hours do you work in a typical week?
Nice some new content to enjoy my lunch to. You inspired me to pull out my old '65 Martin D-28 to clean up, and restring, and thats about the extent of my abilities. Even that job was mediocre at best but was satisfying none the less. Pick guard starting to look a little curly though haha
How well your name fits you Mr Woodford!
Flat sawn wood in a Gibson.....not the worst thing I've seen them do !
You built up the bridge on each side with super glue because it was too loose. Have you ever used a UV activated adhesive for applications such as this?
I havent. It seems like an additional step.
More work as you said. FYI, here it is in use: ua-cam.com/video/VaGLo13D9h4/v-deo.html
How can I contact you about possibly repairing my guitar.
If you're in Canada my email is in the About section. If you're in the U.S. you should find someone in your area, because shipping a guitar back and forth across the border is crazy expensive and risky.