3 Common Climbing Anchor System Builds
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- In this video I show you three different ways to build yourself an anchor system.
This is not a end all be all to anchors because there is so much to know about them but leave a like and comment and Ill keep making videos like this one.
Always test and study techniques that are new to you and never take one persons opinion!
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Bro, your videos make me feel safer as a new climber...thank you so much, I appreciate it tremendously. Right on brother...
Just keep on going, eventually more people will join the channel! Greetings from the Netherlands 👌
Please do more anchor system videos, it's really interesting and it's nice to get some practice in now we're all stuck at home.
Quad anchor built with cord is the best combination for balancing strength, redundancy & equalization. Thanks for showing it. Love your channel.
Nice intro, very professional. I like that it's fast, sharp and straight to the video
Congrats on the baby! Stay safe. I really hope sometime soon I can go out to climb on the rocks. I saw somewhere that Tendon is going to make cordelettes without knots, just sewn together. But the length was only like in slings. I thought it was interesting, I don't know if I would use them.
Thanks man!!! great
Dis video is underrated
Could you make a video on top rope anchors?
Hey man, what about using 1" tubular webbing tied in a loop with a water knot.
Congrats for the baby coming! Nice topic. So what would you recommend? Cordelettes for the stretch or Dynamo slings for the strength?
Phil In the Alps Thanks! think it all depends on what I’m climbing If I’m trying to be a weight Winnie id bring the dyneema. If I’m going slow and maybe hauling I’d use a Cordelette. I have change transitioned between nylon slings and dyneema sling back and forth over the years. I prefer the lightness and less space that dyneema slings offer but I think nylon is better. Lol A discussion for another video I guess haha. Can argue that if you have your climbing rope in the system too you would have enough dynamics.
@@BetaClimbers Alright I'll keep that in mind! Yes I guess the rope makes enough dynamics, and the light weight can be appreciated. Although i usually find myself carrying cordelettes for rappel and stuffs anyway. Thanks for the feedback, and take care! 😉👍
thanks
Hey nice "yellow biner" add to the un-equalized. Just came across you and good stuff. I do have a question; why not use cordage for un-equal and slings for pre-equal? ( cord that's dynamic - should buffer a shock load better?) ....asking your thoughts?
1:25 "you probably could if you were really desperate". This is what we do in Australia when the heads of a carrot are too big or you've run out of bolt plates. Doesn't feel great.
Your so cool and informative, I DON'T UNDERSTAND WHY YOU DON'T GET MORE VIEWS AND LIKES!!!!!!!!
Oliver M 🤣🤣🤣
Congrats!!
Would love to see video on natural anchors
Pretty sure it's coming sooner or later, he just needs to make that one sensational video that reaches 500k or more views in a short amount of time and we won't be underground anymore.
That's nice!
Hi Josh, why don't you make an indoor campus board? i'd like to learn from your creativity and apply it (again) to my apartment.
(i successfully copied your baby climb board for my daughter :), that works great!)
thank you!
Extra thumbs up for merch reveal!
Beginner's question: Is it sufficient to use normal locking carabiners to connect the anchor's points to the rope/cordelette etc. or would you rather recommend using screwgates there as well? Thanks in advance and greetings from Germany
Any locking biner is bomber. As long as it is rated for climbing and locks in some fashion you’re good man. Screw gates just tend to be the cheapest and most common locking biners
In regards to building an anchor using the rope: The most common method is to simply run the rope up to each piece and then clove into a 'biner at your belay loop. In most cases it's a pain to readjust the length of the rope when the clove is up at the piece compared to down at your harness.
In regards to using cordelette: You kinda ran out of rope when tying your fig-8 master point. A just-as-safe method that saves some rope is an overhand.
In the third case you could simply have cloved both left pieces as they were close to eachother with the blue sling, clip the third piece and use limiter knots as before. Would have saved you a sling, a biner and most importantly eliminated the risk of a quite severe shock load should one of the left pieces fail.
Ok so, im no climber, yet. :D I must say though, based on NO experience at all that the single and double lenght runners seem least "safe". The kN on those seem to be lower than using any of the other systems. Am i way off in thinking that?
Most slings are upwards of 20kn and above which is around how strong carabiners are
What do you think about the quad? To me it seems like adding more complexity for marginal gain.
Isn't 7mm way to thin for for something taking weight?? Isn't that only like 10kn?
Andrew Anderson if it was 1 length Of rope yeah but you are essentially 6xing the strength when there are 6 legs of rope.
@@BetaClimbers 10 kn is also much more than pretty much any fall you could possibly take even if it was just one strand
7mm can be around 14 KN and thats on only one Strand
Might not be a big deal, but you might want to think about ring loading the figure 8 loop like that: ua-cam.com/video/jSms2k2eV3Y/v-deo.html
Looking at all the strands of thread on your harness it might be time to replace it. Don't want a Todd Skinner incident.
Average cordellete length 20 or 21 feet ...
7mm is good. 6mm works , little less strong but almost all the configs have many strands.
I'm not sure about 6mm nylon... The PMI accessory cord is only about 7.5 kn. With a knot and wear maybe half of that. What's the point of those 14kn cams if the leg only supports 7.5kn?
take a break and play the ukelelelelelelelele