You did such an amazing job when you made this tutorial. I am looking forward to watching many more of your videos in the near future. I think you are absolutely brilliant! Keep up the great work!
Amazing job! Very inspiring! I think that I would spray glue the layers of the core together, though, to eliminate any counterproductive air gaps between layers
Interesting how energy recovery units have evolved over the years. Most were traditional low static cross flow units that are placed in the ceiling of the home. Now there are high static units, others that fit into the kitchen cupboard and even ones that look like a typical domestic exhaust fan. A good one I came across I think was called an Aerofresh. It looked like two grilles, one inside the house and the other on the exterior bricks. They claimed it had a heat exchange within the tube that connect the two grilles to harness the heat. Are you able to do a DIY of this?
Very informative video on the key component of HRV's as I was looking and found few Chinese companies that do sell the core (corrugated plastic) for less then 100$ with different sizes (AliBaba). I think to improve the enthalpy if each layer has a thin aluminum foil sandwiched between the two sheets or even an aluminum tape would greatly enhance and transfer maximum amount of heat recovery with low losses reduced and it may performs like a energy wheel.
+rmwaseem While aluminum is an OK conductor (compared with silver and copper and carbon), adding another layer would only serve to insulate; if extra precautions were not made to remove all possible air gap between plastic and aluminum layers, it would be considerably worse.
would have used 45 degree corner plastic for box or exchanger for it to slide without resistance/catching, but other than that great turtorial, will give it a try as my house is in need of ventilation. Does it hold up well to this date ? and how about it freezing over in winter?
This was so eye-opening! Thanks! One question- in manufactured HRVs, the heat exchanger cores are made of aluminum. How does using the coroplast instead of aluminum affect the heat exchange?
because the heat transfer is not as good as in aluminium you have to let the air streams pass by/over more surface at the same flow~capacity (it needs more ~ time to transfer) Using less speed lowers the fiction but also lowers the flowrate ~ capacity. To compensate for the lesser heat transfer and keep the same flowrate a bigger core is needed.
I'm intersted in your adhesives, have you ever tried to glue pvc pipr to the colorplast with wither of the glues? and after the build has the glues held up to the heat?
Hey I love your video... How did you come up with this idea. I am looking for exactly what you did and would like to build it myself. I have designed many things on sketchup including the Tiny House my wife and I are building. We need a small Heat Recovery Ventilator. I dont see the link to plans. Can you help me out??? Thanks..... FB
Nice to see someone with great pride in their work, nice workmanship. I have built many of these and my prototype failed due to being blocked with condensation, since I have provided to manage the condensation, no problems. I see your design has no provision for removing the condensation, do you only use it for short periods, as with 24/7 use it would be flooded with condensation as soon as the delta t hit dewpoint.
I can run it 24/7 out here in New Mexico no problem. There is so little moisture in the air. There are a bunch of strategies for controlling condensation in these units. How did you solve it in yours?
+Designed By Instinct The orientation of the counterflow heat exchanger needs to be around 45 deg, then gravity will act to drain the condensation to the lowest point where you remove it in 22mm pvc pipe. I made both x flow and counterflow exchangers, and actually the most efficient counterflow is also the easiest to remove the condensation as it just runs out of the spaces, whereas with the x flow the moisture will not drain away easily in the cells and then turns to ice in freezing conditions. So in temperate climates build heavily insulated counterflow for trouble free 80% efficient HRV.
Very nice job. How about efficiency? Did you measure temps yet to find out what the actual efficiency is? I expect it to be not very high because gluing the squares together leaves still air between the squares which is a very good insulator. But I could be wrong.
+Carlo CC That's probably a correct figure. If I used a very thin glue between the coroplast sheets I could have done better I bet. I understand the coroplast itself is insulating somewhat, but the unit still works great. Mine is still in service with zero maintenance.
Gluing 100% of the surface with a layer of glue as thin as possible would be nice, just as if you were attaching a cooler to a processor. As I said, still air is a good insulator. But putting two of those heatexchangercubes in series would also krank efficiency up. Commercially available heatexchangers reach 95% efficiency easily but are probably difficult to make. Also those high efficient heatexchangers will condensate water and condensationproblems will have to be countered.
+Carlo CC Yes, they sometimes use special paper exchangers so as to transfer humidity/jack up the efficiency. Zehnder makes some super low power units with preheat of the incoming air using ground loop. Search "Zehnder HRV and preheating in Alaska" on YT
Lambert Klein- yes if outgoing humid air is cooled enough to reach the dewpoint. That can happen at all temperatures if the air is humid enough. Dust filtering is also a good idea to avoid clogging
great video. Odd to see plastic used as heat exchange medium. How effective is it?
Can you upload Sketch Up plans?
You did such an amazing job when you made this tutorial. I am looking forward to watching many more of your videos in the near future. I think you are absolutely brilliant! Keep up the great work!
Thanks much for the compliment!
Amazing job! Very inspiring!
I think that I would spray glue the layers of the core together, though, to eliminate any counterproductive air gaps between layers
Man I like the way your brain works! Great job.
Interesting how energy recovery units have evolved over the years. Most were traditional low static cross flow units that are placed in the ceiling of the home. Now there are high static units, others that fit into the kitchen cupboard and even ones that look like a typical domestic exhaust fan. A good one I came across I think was called an Aerofresh.
It looked like two grilles, one inside the house and the other on the exterior bricks. They claimed it had a heat exchange within the tube that connect the two grilles to harness the heat. Are you able to do a DIY of this?
+ Designed by Instinct
Do you have an idea of the capacity/flowrate of the Unit - 6"x6" ?
Very informative video on the key component of HRV's as I was looking and found few Chinese companies that do sell the core (corrugated plastic) for less then 100$ with different sizes (AliBaba). I think to improve the enthalpy if each layer has a thin aluminum foil sandwiched between the two sheets or even an aluminum tape would greatly enhance and transfer maximum amount of heat recovery with low losses reduced and it may performs like a energy wheel.
+rmwaseem While aluminum is an OK conductor (compared with silver and copper and carbon), adding another layer would only serve to insulate; if extra precautions were not made to remove all possible air gap between plastic and aluminum layers, it would be considerably worse.
would have used 45 degree corner plastic for box or exchanger for it to slide without resistance/catching, but other than that great turtorial, will give it a try as my house is in need of ventilation.
Does it hold up well to this date ? and how about it freezing over in winter?
Can you put the link of SketchUp plans, please.
This was so eye-opening! Thanks! One question- in manufactured HRVs, the heat exchanger cores are made of aluminum. How does using the coroplast instead of aluminum affect the heat exchange?
+Elyce Brown Coroplast does not transfer heat as well. It's kind of insulating. But my HRV design *does* work good enough!
+Designed By Instinct You just have to make it a lot bigger than an equivalent aluminum one [which also equals more air friction losses =( ]
If its larger, you`ll have less velocity and lower friction losses ;)
because the heat transfer is not as good as in aluminium you have to let the air streams pass by/over more surface at the same flow~capacity (it needs more ~ time to transfer)
Using less speed lowers the fiction but also lowers the flowrate ~ capacity.
To compensate for the lesser heat transfer and keep the same flowrate a bigger core is needed.
thank you for the tutorial. it looks like a great little project that is exciting to do and learning something that is environmental friendly!
I'm intersted in your adhesives, have you ever tried to glue pvc pipr to the colorplast with wither of the glues? and after the build has the glues held up to the heat?
,vc
Hey I love your video... How did you come up with this idea. I am looking for exactly what you did and would like to build it myself. I have designed many things on sketchup including the Tiny House my wife and I are building. We need a small Heat Recovery Ventilator. I dont see the link to plans. Can you help me out??? Thanks..... FB
Nice to see someone with great pride in their work, nice workmanship.
I have built many of these and my prototype failed due to being blocked with condensation, since I have provided to manage the condensation, no problems.
I see your design has no provision for removing the condensation, do you only use it for short periods, as with 24/7 use it would be flooded with condensation as soon as the delta t hit dewpoint.
I can run it 24/7 out here in New Mexico no problem. There is so little moisture in the air.
There are a bunch of strategies for controlling condensation in these units. How did you solve it in yours?
+Designed By Instinct The orientation of the counterflow heat exchanger needs to be around 45 deg, then gravity will act to drain the condensation to the lowest point where you remove it in 22mm pvc pipe. I made both x flow and counterflow exchangers, and actually the most efficient counterflow is also the easiest to remove the condensation as it just runs out of the spaces, whereas with the x flow the moisture will not drain away easily in the cells and then turns to ice in freezing conditions. So in temperate climates build heavily insulated counterflow for trouble free 80% efficient HRV.
+Keith Davies What shape do you use for a cross flow hrv?
Square, did no more trials due to condensation issues.
great work ! very inspirational !
A career in Hand modeling is in your future!
Very nice job. How about efficiency? Did you measure temps yet to find out what the actual efficiency is? I expect it to be not very high because gluing the squares together leaves still air between the squares which is a very good insulator. But I could be wrong.
+Carlo CC See my other testing video. It works very well for how cheap it is!
I think, roughly calculated you have an efficiency of about 50% which is quite good for a cheap build indeed.
+Carlo CC That's probably a correct figure. If I used a very thin glue between the coroplast sheets I could have done better I bet. I understand the coroplast itself is insulating somewhat, but the unit still works great. Mine is still in service with zero maintenance.
Gluing 100% of the surface with a layer of glue as thin as possible would be nice, just as if you were attaching a cooler to a processor. As I said, still air is a good insulator. But putting two of those heatexchangercubes in series would also krank efficiency up. Commercially available heatexchangers reach 95% efficiency easily but are probably difficult to make. Also those high efficient heatexchangers will condensate water and condensationproblems will have to be countered.
+Carlo CC Yes, they sometimes use special paper exchangers so as to transfer humidity/jack up the efficiency. Zehnder makes some super low power units with preheat of the incoming air using ground loop. Search "Zehnder HRV and preheating in Alaska" on YT
Your voice, presentation style and mannerisms are doppelganger for ZeosPantera (Z Review).
Excellent vid dude, thank you! What battery pack were you using there btw? Thanks.,
You were there years before Hollywood. This is a Hardcore Henry perspective video. Except you don't use as many hand grenades.
just kind of stumbled upon this not knowing what a HRV is, so interested now and i agree with everyone else great video and workmanship!
This is brilliant. You're quite handy!
Do you have to worry about condensation inside the unit? If so how would you drain it? Would running a drain interfere with airflow?
Lambert Klein- yes if outgoing humid air is cooled enough to reach the dewpoint.
That can happen at all temperatures if the air is humid enough.
Dust filtering is also a good idea to avoid clogging
woohoo! I'm viewer # 100,000
cleaver man
Is this the regular coroplast sheet
How is the camera setup?
Smart Stuff ! :)
Just open 2 windows xD