I saved the original video to watch again later and today I've found the comment about this second channel in English. Thanks a lot for sharing all of these information!! Great work!
Nice! It's worth mentioning, the thinner the wall of the aluminium tubes, the better. The heat exchanger reminds me of early car radiators. They used copper tubes which they would swage the ends, then stack up looking like a honeycomb. They would then dip either side in a large bath of molten solder. This would solder the copper tubes together and fill the small gaps, but leave the tubes open. The water would flow across the outside of the tubes. 6mm copper tube is easily available with much thinner wall thickness, e.g. 0.25mm, but maybe more expensive.
You would get better results from the heat recovery if the incoming and outgoing (same side) vents were further apart. So the incoming air is not almost immediately drawn back outside. This can be done by reconfiguring the vents to work in an X-type crossflow shape instead of an S-type crossflow shape.
Great project! I have 2 ideas to improve it. First, put thin insulation around the venting to ensure the cooled outgoing air doesn’t steal heat from the room. Next, add a very thin filter to the outgoing vent to ensure bugs can’t get in through it. Finally, I’m very interested to see what the inside looks like after it’s been operating for a long time, specifically does water condensation build up and lead to mold growth?
Nice, maybe I'll try making something similar. I have a bedroom with no ventilation in an old apartment and I'm about to install airtight doors to block out noise from flatmates, and I also want to keep windows closed as much as possible to block out street noise. So I'll need some single-room mechanical ventilation which is also quiet and blocks street noise. Bonus points if it also acts as a heat exchanger and can help control humidity levels (I recently bought an air quality sensor and it shows ~70-75% humidity for the past few days. Sure, it's been rainy, but I think that's worryingly high). I looked at commercial devices, but the affordable ones tend to have no good answer to the moisture problem (some simply freeze in the winter, some 'recover' water keeping high humidity indoors). So I guess DIY is the best way.
I built a comparable system 10 yers ago in my condo in bangkok... the problem there is the air pollution is bad enough to clog a HEPA the filter in just days. Managed to increase the filter lifespan to something acceptable by adding a washable stainless mesh filter and a cheap carbon air filter in front of it. Still have to dispose the carbon filter once a week, but it's a lot cheaper than doing so with the HEPA filter. What I like on your system is that it makes it easy to manage condensation... another problem I struggle with.
@@alexandrevaliquette3883 there is a map by IQAir. They use a network of privately owned air quality meters, uploading data in real time. They also got an app that's basically a detailed pollution world map. It's called IQair Airvisual
this is important work and there is igenuity around here! this is great! Thank you. i think this is a very productive model that can fit in existing residential window sills, and ,,, that is great!
I did practically the same but in vertical design(it deals better with exhaust moisture condensation) and used brass tubes - they are ussually tinner-more effective and solderable...
I adjusted power input of the one fan to the second fan single speed. For one speed I did just few tests to adjust proper speed of the first fan. No temperature-float measuring devices or complicated controling elecronics was needed. all the time, (summer-inside is cooler or winter-inside is warmer)
You want the flow to be very slow so it has time to heat it'll get there you don't have to watch it and the filter is an excellent idea especially the charcoal one
I built something like this 25 years ago, but mine was designed as de-humidifier and so the outside air was brought into the heat exchanger and the moisture was removed.
Did you notice condensation and that is why you added the heater... or just to be safe? Great improved design. Lot's more options looks like in Belarus.
Both recuperator videos you've made are incredible! Thank you for sharing all your hard work! It took some searching to find this video. In the US we call them Heat Recovery Ventilators or HRVs, if you put either in your title you might get more hits, which you totally deserve.
@@johnbash-on-gerim not sure its very efficient. Wouldnt it just use more power without actully adding efficientcy, thus lowering the recouperated effect pr watt used? Can you elabote?
@@gamingkingX Sure, there are some clever design techniques coming together: Use two heat pumps: one at the outside air intake and exit pumping heat from the exit into the intake, one heat pump on the inside pumping heat from the vent removing air to the vent putting in new air into the space. Use some extra heat exchangers in the middle and you have a ventilation heating combination. This is more efficient because the synergy with ventilation and the heat exchanging in the middle reduces the temperature differences the heat pumps have to overcome. This gives higher C.O.P. and has the ventilation work with instead of against the heat pumps.
6:07 outside it's 6.2°, when this air has passed through the heat exchanger it's 8.8°, even though inside it's 23°. So the difference between inside and outisde is 16.8 kelvin, of which we manage to recuperate 2.6, so 2.6/16.8=15% efficiency. So it's pretty shite, which is what you get when you have suboptimal heat exchanger geometry
Condensation probably forms only on the surfaces where air gets cooled down. So that's the outgoing air. Would it be OK to just let condensation form then? And design the pipes with a slope so that the water naturally flows out, similar to an air conditioner? Even if mold forms, it would be harmless, as it would not affect the room - just the exhaust air. (Assuming the device is only used for heat exchange in winter, not in summer)
Factory made heat exchangers do have a condensation evacuation tube. I think it’s simple design that can be washed twice a year as seasons progress. Aluminium tubes in that sense can be washed thourougly so it’s such elegant design !
Very good and clear DIY! Unfortunately I can not read What it says in the link to the STL-file (I'm from the Netherlands) could you please share a link in a european language?
my guess is that condensation happens on the out flow pipes BC warm air is hitting cold surfaces, but the cold air is being heated coming in so moisture evaporates. The inflow is the problem, needs very good filtering to avoid legionella.
If the house is closed up super tight and you're trying to exchange air you can do it with one fan you simply draw the air in with that van across your heat and the room air will go past that out the window through a flap a one-way flap
I gotta set me up one.. wifes gonna leave me if i dont start venting my farts.. she says fans are too loud and just blow them around the house. Never thought i really farted that much but apparently she says its like a second set of lungs.. ha..
Very good. I will make one HRV from coroplast sheeting. Or perhaps from twin wall polycarbonate. Ideally aluminium but scaled up plastic can work. I look forward to seeing your air monitor. I have an ndir co2 sensor that works well, but would like to monitor pm2. 5
I liked the video. Greate work. I am not able to download the 3d-print model. Maby i need to do my own. Dont know if the dimentions is the same in my local hardware store. But thanks again. realy good and informativ video. Do you think that isolation of the heat exchanger can be benefisial in realy cold climate (solving intake air cooling the room) ?
Did you consider submerging the heat exchanger piping in a liquid to increase specific heat capacity? What about using heat sinks on the exhausting pipe work to aid in more efficient heat exchange?
Yeah I am interested in that. He flies through that in 2:45 but can't barely see it. I think he just inserts it between the aluminium tubes. Why couldn't you go back and forth a couple of times from end to end so there is x3 times of that cable between the tubes? Wouldn't that provide even more heat into the air? Doesn't the cable defeats the purpose of the whole air exchange process?
This is a really good ventilation system! I'm looking for an alternative to ac since it is too expensive. I live in the Philippines and wondering if this can also cool the room since it is burning hot in here. Hope you can answer my question, thank you!
as long as there is temperature difference, the inside of your house will balance out the difference. For example outside is 26C and inside is 30C, after a dozen cycles from ERV, the temperature inside will eventually be around 26C-28C, but not lower than outside temperature since you don't use AC. Depending on where you are in the Philippines, you'll probably need to fit it with charcoal filter for pollution control.
Очень хорошо, большое спасибо! У меня дома 7 кошек, и они много тратят на мои ноги, когда они собирают свой мусор, вонючий воздух становится уродливым, так что зимой мне больше всего этого придется делать, я также временно ем здесь на индукционной плите, и пар тоже надо вывести, привет из Аргентины! Muy bueno, muchas gracias! tengo 7 gatos en casa y pasan mucho en mi piesa, cuando hacen sus basuritas se pone feo el aire oloroso asi que mas que nada en invierno esto voy a tener que hacer, ademas tambien hago de comer aca temporalmente en un anafe de induccion, y el vapor tambien hay q sacarlo afuera, saludos desde Argentina!
I saved the original video to watch again later and today I've found the comment about this second channel in English. Thanks a lot for sharing all of these information!! Great work!
Nice! It's worth mentioning, the thinner the wall of the aluminium tubes, the better. The heat exchanger reminds me of early car radiators. They used copper tubes which they would swage the ends, then stack up looking like a honeycomb. They would then dip either side in a large bath of molten solder. This would solder the copper tubes together and fill the small gaps, but leave the tubes open. The water would flow across the outside of the tubes.
6mm copper tube is easily available with much thinner wall thickness, e.g. 0.25mm, but maybe more expensive.
You would get better results from the heat recovery if the incoming and outgoing (same side) vents were further apart. So the incoming air is not almost immediately drawn back outside.
This can be done by reconfiguring the vents to work in an X-type crossflow shape instead of an S-type crossflow shape.
Great project! I have 2 ideas to improve it. First, put thin insulation around the venting to ensure the cooled outgoing air doesn’t steal heat from the room. Next, add a very thin filter to the outgoing vent to ensure bugs can’t get in through it. Finally, I’m very interested to see what the inside looks like after it’s been operating for a long time, specifically does water condensation build up and lead to mold growth?
I have made a recuperator of drinking straws and it works also very well.
Nice, maybe I'll try making something similar. I have a bedroom with no ventilation in an old apartment and I'm about to install airtight doors to block out noise from flatmates, and I also want to keep windows closed as much as possible to block out street noise. So I'll need some single-room mechanical ventilation which is also quiet and blocks street noise. Bonus points if it also acts as a heat exchanger and can help control humidity levels (I recently bought an air quality sensor and it shows ~70-75% humidity for the past few days. Sure, it's been rainy, but I think that's worryingly high). I looked at commercial devices, but the affordable ones tend to have no good answer to the moisture problem (some simply freeze in the winter, some 'recover' water keeping high humidity indoors). So I guess DIY is the best way.
I built a comparable system 10 yers ago in my condo in bangkok... the problem there is the air pollution is bad enough to clog a HEPA the filter in just days. Managed to increase the filter lifespan to something acceptable by adding a washable stainless mesh filter and a cheap carbon air filter in front of it. Still have to dispose the carbon filter once a week, but it's a lot cheaper than doing so with the HEPA filter.
What I like on your system is that it makes it easy to manage condensation... another problem I struggle with.
HEPA clog in days in Bangkok!
Wow, thank you for sharing your experience.
I'm curious to know the airborne pollution concentration on a world map.
@@alexandrevaliquette3883 there is a map by IQAir. They use a network of privately owned air quality meters, uploading data in real time. They also got an app that's basically a detailed pollution world map. It's called IQair Airvisual
this is important work and there is igenuity around here! this is great! Thank you. i think this is a very productive model that can fit in existing residential window sills, and ,,, that is great!
This dude needs more subs. Excellent content
es genial, puedes hacer tu negocio. la gente necesita. gracias por mostrarnos.
Russian diy stores have such a better selection than the uk
... and the US it seems
And Australia.
he lives in belarus. and the store is leroy merlin which is french. the same stores with the same products are available all over Europe
oh i forgot that UK left EU, lol bad luck mate
Canada complete joke.
And now after a few years, are you still using it? What is your conclusion? Would you make this model again?
I did practically the same but in vertical design(it deals better with exhaust moisture condensation) and used brass tubes - they are ussually tinner-more effective and solderable...
How about efficiency? And are you satisfied with this device after using for a while?
I adjusted power input of the one fan to the second fan single speed. For one speed I did just few tests to adjust proper speed of the first fan. No temperature-float measuring devices or complicated controling elecronics was needed. all the time, (summer-inside is cooler or winter-inside is warmer)
You want the flow to be very slow so it has time to heat it'll get there you don't have to watch it and the filter is an excellent idea especially the charcoal one
I built something like this 25 years ago, but mine was designed as de-humidifier and so the outside air was brought into the heat exchanger and the moisture was removed.
Did you notice condensation and that is why you added the heater... or just to be safe? Great improved design. Lot's more options looks like in Belarus.
Both recuperator videos you've made are incredible! Thank you for sharing all your hard work!
It took some searching to find this video. In the US we call them Heat Recovery Ventilators or HRVs, if you put either in your title you might get more hits, which you totally deserve.
Thank you very much!
Searching for Heat Recovery Ventilator is how I found this just now. Great video!
@@DIY_Yarik Please look into using heat pumps such as Peltier elements / TEC devices to increase recuperation while keeping power requirements low.
@@johnbash-on-gerim not sure its very efficient. Wouldnt it just use more power without actully adding efficientcy, thus lowering the recouperated effect pr watt used? Can you elabote?
@@gamingkingX Sure, there are some clever design techniques coming together:
Use two heat pumps: one at the outside air intake and exit pumping heat from the exit into the intake, one heat pump on the inside pumping heat from the vent removing air to the vent putting in new air into the space. Use some extra heat exchangers in the middle and you have a ventilation heating combination.
This is more efficient because the synergy with ventilation and the heat exchanging in the middle reduces the temperature differences the heat pumps have to overcome. This gives higher C.O.P. and has the ventilation work with instead of against the heat pumps.
Maybe I missed it in the video but how efficient, in terms of heat recovered, was your design? Most commercial HRVs are >70% efficient.
6:07 outside it's 6.2°, when this air has passed through the heat exchanger it's 8.8°, even though inside it's 23°. So the difference between inside and outisde is 16.8 kelvin, of which we manage to recuperate 2.6, so 2.6/16.8=15% efficiency. So it's pretty shite, which is what you get when you have suboptimal heat exchanger geometry
Inside is 23, outside 3, inlet 14, outlet 11 -> he recoupes about 9 degrees. Don't know how efficieny is calculated.
I had been wondering if you have someone do voiceovers for you. This clears things up... Good ideas by the way. Love your experiments.
Maybe using copper pipes is a good idea as copper is a biocide and would inhibit mold from moisture
Another excellent idea, thank you for sharing
Condensation probably forms only on the surfaces where air gets cooled down. So that's the outgoing air. Would it be OK to just let condensation form then? And design the pipes with a slope so that the water naturally flows out, similar to an air conditioner? Even if mold forms, it would be harmless, as it would not affect the room - just the exhaust air. (Assuming the device is only used for heat exchange in winter, not in summer)
Factory made heat exchangers do have a condensation evacuation tube.
I think it’s simple design that can be washed twice a year as seasons progress. Aluminium tubes in that sense can be washed thourougly so it’s such elegant design !
Very good and clear DIY! Unfortunately I can not read What it says in the link to the STL-file (I'm from the Netherlands) could you please share a link in a european language?
This looks interesting... what about differences of humidity? Does condensation not buildup in the tube as the temperature changes?
my guess is that condensation happens on the out flow pipes BC warm air is hitting cold surfaces, but the cold air is being heated coming in so moisture evaporates. The inflow is the problem, needs very good filtering to avoid legionella.
I’m curious if using copper piping would make for a higher efficiency
Definitely higher thermal conductivity... so thinking will.
If the house is closed up super tight and you're trying to exchange air you can do it with one fan you simply draw the air in with that van across your heat and the room air will go past that out the window through a flap a one-way flap
wow, incredible video! you deserve more subscribers!
Excelente Proyecto! Saludos desde Uruguay!
With the intake and exhaust so close to each other, isn't it just circulating air?
Excellent build! Are you still using it today?
I gotta set me up one.. wifes gonna leave me if i dont start venting my farts.. she says fans are too loud and just blow them around the house. Never thought i really farted that much but apparently she says its like a second set of lungs.. ha..
Very good. I will make one HRV from coroplast sheeting.
Or perhaps from twin wall polycarbonate.
Ideally aluminium but scaled up plastic can work.
I look forward to seeing your air monitor.
I have an ndir co2 sensor that works well, but would like to monitor pm2. 5
Does the cover function as a diffuser? Would a different different diffuser design improve performance?
Can you do the same in the reverse/opposite?
Make one that cools an enclosed room? Enclosed for security.
What about copper pipers? is the price too high?
I am not sure where to install the heating cable to be honest. Are there any diagrams of the build?
Any updated version yet?
Love this kind of DIY!
Great video. Thank you. Does this work to keep a room cool as well?
I liked the video. Greate work. I am not able to download the 3d-print model. Maby i need to do my own. Dont know if the dimentions is the same in my local hardware store. But thanks again. realy good and informativ video. Do you think that isolation of the heat exchanger can be benefisial in realy cold climate (solving intake air cooling the room) ?
Excellent work. I'm in Australia and having trouble finding the PVC Duct parts. Do you know the name of the manufacturer? Thanks.
Did you consider submerging the heat exchanger piping in a liquid to increase specific heat capacity? What about using heat sinks on the exhausting pipe work to aid in more efficient heat exchange?
You are a Hero!
How does it look on the inside though please? How did you separate the two airflows inside this plastic pipe, while allowing for a heat exchange?
How did you install the heating element? I could use more details on that part.
Yeah I am interested in that. He flies through that in 2:45 but can't barely see it. I think he just inserts it between the aluminium tubes. Why couldn't you go back and forth a couple of times from end to end so there is x3 times of that cable between the tubes? Wouldn't that provide even more heat into the air? Doesn't the cable defeats the purpose of the whole air exchange process?
This is a really good ventilation system! I'm looking for an alternative to ac since it is too expensive. I live in the Philippines and wondering if this can also cool the room since it is burning hot in here. Hope you can answer my question, thank you!
as long as there is temperature difference, the inside of your house will balance out the difference.
For example outside is 26C and inside is 30C, after a dozen cycles from ERV, the temperature inside will eventually be around 26C-28C, but not lower than outside temperature since you don't use AC. Depending on where you are in the Philippines, you'll probably need to fit it with charcoal filter for pollution control.
aku hadir bosqu, semoga bermanfaat
how often would you have to clean these?
Yall have a way better selection of aluminum and those plastic ducts or whatever for a hardware store compared to America
What is the change in temperature across the heat exchanger?
nice job!
Hey! Nice project, did you ever test it's efficiency long term? Good luck with your projects
Not bad but jeez why not use an intercooler from a car?!
Классный рекуператор получился!!! скинь вариант на русом если есть
Where can I just buy one?!
Co2 would take a very long time to reach buildup limit
Odlično
What do you think about Prana heat recovery ventilators? Their recuperators seems better than other recuperators with one engine and one canal.
This might interest you. It's a video on commercially available residential heat recovery ventilation.
ua-cam.com/video/QOSelUK6dpQ/v-deo.html
do you make one version which you sell?
les tubes en aluminium sont trop fins, vous allez perdre beaucoup de puissance en frottement sur la couche limite d'air.
Are the fans interlocked?
USA.
Anyone know of a pre made one of these I can buy?
Or anyone wanna make me one I buy it :)
It's funny how your voice-over guy just said the complete nonsense lines translated literally. It would be best if you also had proofreading.
next time use node red to cllet data is simplear that his
Мммм.. А вы это продаёте?
None of these materials are common in the US. I'm going to have to make mine out of one super long concentric pipe.
Ha ha ha .one fan is needed to make a circulation. No reason to use two.
Очень хорошо, большое спасибо! У меня дома 7 кошек, и они много тратят на мои ноги, когда они собирают свой мусор, вонючий воздух становится уродливым, так что зимой мне больше всего этого придется делать, я также временно ем здесь на индукционной плите, и пар тоже надо вывести, привет из Аргентины!
Muy bueno, muchas gracias! tengo 7 gatos en casa y pasan mucho en mi piesa, cuando hacen sus basuritas se pone feo el aire oloroso asi que mas que nada en invierno esto voy a tener que hacer, ademas tambien hago de comer aca temporalmente en un anafe de induccion, y el vapor tambien hay q sacarlo afuera, saludos desde Argentina!
interesting but.... Slava Ukraini