Thanks everyone for the comments! If you're curious about what happened to my DIY HRV, the difference between ERVs and HRVs, and why I don’t believe that building an ERV is feasible, check out this video of mine: ua-cam.com/video/LiptsaKmq80/v-deo.htmlsi=bsEbBQ9pKLKozY4u I’d also like to mention that even if you live in the desert, you may still need a dehumidifier to supplement your ERV! Even arid regions can get humid in certain times of year.
Alex, YOU are a renegade, I salute you! I love everything about this video - DIY, don’t take ‘no’ for an answer, applying research and know-how, level of detail, testing, and your tone which really seems to communicate your sense of care for others in sharing your discoveries. Lots of good food for thought for healthier air at home. Thanks.
Your comment might be the most encouraging I’ve received on this channel. From one renegade to another: I salute you! You truly understand what I’m trying to do. Having experienced severe chronic illness from a toxic home environment, my mission is to help ensure that what happened to me doesn’t happen to others.
Great comment, I 100% agree. Your channel is truely unique in the healthy home genre. I have allergies and would like to improve my home’s air quality. I’ve watched so many other ‘experts’ explain ‘you need a ducted whole home heat pump / ERV / Dehumidifier system, my sponsored $$,$$$+ is fantastic’. I don’t have a basement, attic, and I can’t spend anything like that sort of money. I love that your DIY projects are built with tools and materials that are realistic in time and money required. And on what other channel is the follow up, ‘well now I’ve run my DIY system it doesn’t work so well under these conditions, so I’ve purchased this product. This honestly, and your experimentation is so appreciated. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and please continue to post exactly as you have been. Don’t feel the need to change anything. Your videos are the perfect durations, with exactly perfect camera work, audio and editing. I know how many skills and how much time it must take to post these videos, you’re doing a great job.
@@jameslotech4996 Thanks so much James! I’m really glad there are people like you who understand what I’m trying to do here. Your comment made my morning.
Studies have been done that shows that air generally takes the path of lease resistance. So, draw a line from "in" to "out". In this case, a path of about 4 feet. Especially after things settle down a bit. Maybe a bit farther, but not much farther. It would be orders of magnitude better it you ran the supply duct line across the house as far as possible to make the return trip take longer. Longer duct makes static, so you could use a larger duct, which would help a little. And just so you're not disappointed with your experiments, the various fans are actually probably doing about 20-30% of the mixing you think they are. A truck load of expensive measuring gear would confirm the actual numbers. You have all the parts - ERV, dehu, air scrubbing, ideas about distribution. Home Performance has a great vid on how to tie it all together when you get to installing it into your home permanently. Also, Instead of the small, restrictive filters inside the unit, you could transition the 5" duct to a larger size (some standard size of 4" pleated MERV 13-16, say 24x24 or 20x20 etc.) and back down to the 5" duct. We often do this from cardboard for proof-of-concept, and to make a model for fabrication. We call this a reverse bottleneck. A whole lot less static resistance, less costly, and filtration will last much, much longer. Ducts are generally disgusting because they have been treated badly and have never been cleaned for the life of the home. I know this is an experimental install, but when we install these permanently, as much as we can, we run flex duct pulled as tight as we can, straight as an arrow & use hard 90s for all turns. So planning is critical. The slightest turn, sag or bunched-up flex causes huge static (resistance). We also mastic everything, but in the house, maybe some duct leakage doesn't matter. We "exhaust" air from bathrooms, laundry, kitchen - where chemicals, moisture and odors hang out. Existing bath fan box can be gutted and duct attached to that to minimize the work necessary. It goes without saying, but I'll say it, air seal everything you can get access to while you have the chance. Every tiny crack matters. Water-tight! Imagine you are sealing a submarine from water leakage, like in "Das Boot". all the hundreds of leakage add up to leaving a large door open year-round, but it's all over, like a sieve. Building Science Corporation is a great source for stuff. We do Net Zero Energy homes which makes me a little picky about the details that, added up, detract about 50-70%, and often more, when not executed like NASA. Peace!
Thanks for your comment! I fully agree with you about the limitations of my setup method, and I did speak to some of them at 34:55, and throughout the video. In this video, I’m not arguing that my setup method is optimal. I’m arguing that it can be used effectively in scenarios where we don’t have other good options - I feel that the CO2 data I presented supports that. This method can be used by those of us who live in apartments, which can’t be altered. It can also be used by homeowners who don’t live in homes with ducts, and don’t have the money to pay a professional to retrofit an ERV into a ductless home. In many areas, there aren’t even professionals who do that kind of work! Of course, I would not use my method in a new construction. I do agree with all of the points you brought up - you sound very experienced. Peace to you!
here is someone no one is talking about. Any plastic that is BPA free has BPS, and BPS does the same thing as BPA. However, now that people do not know about the problem with BPS, calling something BPA free makes the problem worse. Because people think BPA free is safe. However, Nice build, thumbs up to you.
Interesting, thanks. I’m having trouble finding online resources on polypropylene and BPS - can you recommend any? What I mean is that just because something doesn’t have BPA in it doesn’t necessarily mean that it has a BPA substitute like BPS or BPF. So I want to verify.
I have additional comments based upon my experience as a radon mitigator applying ventilation and pressurization to energy efficient dwelling units in this hot, humid climate. Including high rise Multifamily. 1. I have found that ERVs and HRVs commonly move much more air than advertised. They usually over-ventilate when selected according to published performance. 2. In most tight, energy-efficient homes here in SW Florida, with two or three occupants, I have found that indoor carbon dioxide levels of 600 are easy to achieve with only 18-24 cubic feet per minute of outdoor air. Such low and precise airflows will also mitigate radon emitted from building materials up to about 7-8 picoCuries per liter. WITHOUT THE NEED TO ADD A DEHUMIDIFIER. 3. In my experience, a variable speed air mover can be controlled by a CO2 controller to maintain 600 ppm CO2 by adjusting ventilation rate automatically as occupants come and go. It is uncanny as to how well it really works. 4. It is my long-term experience that that an electronic humidity controller that is set to suspend air delivery if indoor goes above 59.9% will prevent mold without having to install a dehumidifier. A reliable controller will prevent increase in the indoor relative humidity to a level that the air conditioner can't "dance with." 5. Keep in mind that USEPA recommends all ventilation air be filtered by a MERV 13 filter as it enters the breathing zone. daisyductless.com 6. Here in SW Florida, many mechanical ventilation radon mitigation systems include a home-made filter that loads up and stops airflow within a short period. Sure, these installations with loaded filters rarely cause mold problems, but radon reduction is only temporary and for a short term until the filter is serviced again, usually every 60-90 days. Such filters are almost never serviced. And radon goes right back up, but homeowners and occupants don't know it because they only rarely retest for radon. It is not unusual to see radon systems that have not reduced radon for twelve and more years. And the owners don't know it until a buyer asks for a radon test. There will be lawsuits. And I predict that when that happens, many radon mitigators may soon thereafter have insurance cancelled. 7. Blue oil-filled manometers as substitutes for a radon meter. DON'T LET IT HAPPEN. They measure suction, not airflow. Oil displacement will be greatest when the homemade filter is completely blocked. A completely false indication that radon is under control. If I were the lawyer advising the blue oil filled manufacturers i would immediately issue directives that oil filled manometers may never be used as mechanical ventilation radon system indicators unless used with a pitot to indicate actual airflow instead of pressure. A jury would likely ask "What were they thinking when they did this with home-made filters that they knew were rarely serviced?" What would the jury's verdict be and for how many $$$$$$? 8. ERVS. If not PROPERLY serviced, air intake filter becomes more rapidly stopped up and exhaust flows remain high. RESULT? Negative indoor breathing zone pressures likely causing or increasing radon risk. Another one for the lawyers. This one could also be determined by a motion for summary judgement limited only by the extent of insurance or by later jury verdict. ERVs must be regularly and effectively serviced. They may even be the cause of totally unexpected radon exposure and lung cancer. Who would have guessed?
Is a homeowner able to “properly” service an ERV? Or is that something a professional would need to be hired to do 3-4 times a year? I’m in South East Florida and am considering getting an ERV. Any recommendations?
Interesting solution for a renting situation. You could possibly set up a large box of some sort from Ikea like a pax closet, and put the whole thing in there to make it more aesthetically acceptable, hehe. Another idea is to glue on a layer of insulation like rockwool on the coroplast as you might get condensation on it in the winter.
I was personally just thinking of building a box out of plastic or big one out of wood... then you can simply get aluminum sheets, put some holes through them, put a thread through those holes and separate the sheets by nuts.
Great work. I installed the Broan 230 HRV AI series in my attic, in a type 4 (singe return, but synchronizes with the AHU fan and ducting for supply). This was a lot of work, mainly because it almost didnt fit in my attic space, but it is in there now, and i have dialed it it. The only thing that i regret, is that i could not easily add a 4" media filter at the AHU. I have a Corsi-Rosenthal filter near the return. I think that i will be updating that filter fan to the one that you posted in another video or 6 x 120mm server fans to reduce the noise and footprint. My primary goal was to have as much fresh air in my bedroom as i could when i sleep, with the door largely closed. CO2 went from peaking at about 1500ppm at the end of the night, to right around 750. A big win. Keep up the good work.
I guess for a humid climate you would have to use a dehumidifier. I want to install a ventilating dehumidifier. The hard part is just figuring out the drain for the water.
Looking at the comments I think you should have given a half minute explanation about the differences between a HRV and ERV. Especially since you do have a HRV build video :) And why that 1000$ price is not bad for an ERV! Especially your unit does balancing by itself. One thing I would try is to bring the fresh air duct towards your office door. Maybe on the ceiling? So more fresh air goes to the rest of the house. Another thing: Should the house have slight positive or slight negative pressure? If I'm correct, you lean towards slight positive pressure to ensure air only enters the building thru the air filter. Right? But for example Nilan recommends slight negative pressure to avoid pushing warm humid air into the structure of your house in the winter (moisture diffusion and also small gaps, electric conduits, etc). Ok, you do have a kitchen exhaust, and only one room has the ERV, so pushing more air in might help diffusing the fresh air thru you home. Feels like Broan is over-rating their CFM rating. Giving a rating with no ducts is completely useless. You have less ducts than what would be used in even a two room apartmant, but the actual air flow is still less than advertised. Here EU regulations do require manufacturers and sellers to give standardised air flow and efficiency numbers to buyers. But sadly most marketing stuff still says useless claims like "up to 90% effeciency"...
Great point! I suppose I overestimated how familiar people would be with the difference between ERVs and HRVs. I actually just made another video explaining it haha! Thanks for the suggestion. I like your thinking. I don’t feel that the extra labor of fixing the fresh air duct to the ceiling or closer to the door would yield much benefit - my office is small and there isn’t much of a gap between the fresh air port and the door anyway. My circulating fans do the trick of exchanging air well. Also, it’s not that efficient to blow air along the ceiling and out of a room given that the space above the door is a wall, if that makes sense. For those concerned with not bringing in toxic substances (such as mold spores, mouse debris, gas from a heating system, chimney soot, etc) from beyond the conditioned spaces, positive pressure is generally prudent (as I did in this video). Negatively pressurizing a home would concern me. Though it’s surprisingly difficult to actually pressurize a house unless it’s quite airtight. For most houses, which are at least somewhat leaky, you’d need much more cfm than 5-10. Another good point about companies overestimating airflow for their devices.
This is amazing, thank you! 👏 What are you thoughts on smaller/cheaper units attached to multiple windows in a home? At a minimum, I'd like one for each occupied bedroom. It seems like the Panasonic WhisperComfort is the most reasonably priced model but I do wonder about the lack of distance between the exhaust and intake...
You’re very welcome! You could certainly try an approach with multiple smaller units in multiple windows. I can’t vouch for the performance of ERVs I haven’t tested, but theoretically, I think cross-contamination would be more okay if an ERV only had to ventilate one bedroom, as opposed to a larger area of a home. Still, it should be minimized if possible; I’d recommend using vents facing in opposite directions in your insert. On the ERV itself, use a 90 degree duct elbow to direct the supply airstream away from the return at least.
Yo Kess, incredible video man. I've been researching ERV options for windows online recently, and as luck would have it, I stumbled upon this video you created two weeks ago. A couple questions for you: -What is the energy consumption like for the ERV model you are using? -How has the setup been performing in the winter? Does it noticeably lower the temperature of your office relative to other rooms in your house while running?
Hey man, it's great to hear from you! Glad you found my video and enjoyed it. -As far as energy consumption, the PMSM ECM fan motors the Broan AI Series 130 has are relatively efficient compared to some other units on the market. Electrical characteristics are as follows: 120 volts, 60 Hz, 2.4 A, 110 W. -I checked with a bunch of HVAC installers in northern New England, and they all said that the Broan AI Series are reliable for winter use in this region. Personally, I haven't had it long enough to be able to report on how it performs when the temperature is very cold outside (below 20F or so). When it's pretty cold outside (around 25-30F), it functions well. To be specific, at 25-30F, the temperature of my office is maybe a degree or two colder than the rest of the house, IF the office door is kept open to allow air circulation/exchange. If I close the door to my office, isolating it, the temperature in my office decreases a little more, maybe around 65F when the rest of my house is 70F. ***BUT note that I don’t have a thermostat in my office***. That's with continuous ventilation at 55 cfm. Hope this helps, and welcome to my channel!
@@HealthyHomeGuide Are you running that electric baseboard heater in your office? When the office cools, does the baseboard heater kick in more, minimizing the temp drop?
My Santa Fe compact70 has served me very well. I've heard AprilAire dehumidifiers are good as well. Whatever dehumidifier you get, make sure it takes MERV-13 filters to prevent mold from colonizing the dehumidifier.
Creating an ERV is super cheap. Get a tote, a bunch or coroplast, and some foam. The "core" in the ERV is just layers of coroplast where the alternating layers are orthogonal.
You're referring to an HRV. I actually have a video in which I talked about making an HRV. ERVs are not nearly as easy to make because they deal with heat AND moisture transfer, not just heat transfer like HRVs. I discussed this in the video.
Hi, thanks for your video! I am contemplating a similar install. Can you comment on the noise level for this unit at about 10-20' distance? (there is a bedroom at about that distance...).
Happy to help! At 10-20', running on a moderate fan speed, I don't feel that it's very loud at all. Maybe similar to a box fan on medium speed. That's my opinion though - for someone who hates the sound of a fan, and prefers complete silence, it might be bothersome.
Did u see the video of scientist comparing/having a co2 sensor vs voc sensor in classrooms, and sistem with vocs did better controling the fan speed than with co2
Good question! This ERV can run all year round, even during hotter, more humid periods because it modulates heat AND humidity, and my DIY HRV should only run in the cold, dry months because it only modulates heat - not humidity.
I'm so glad I found this!!! The broan 130 popped up on my research, but I am nearly settled on the intelli-balance 100. Did the Panasonic intellibalance pop up during your research? Either way, just wanted to add my plan is to convince a local hvac distributor to sell to me direct to customer to save a couple more dollars. Great guide man, these should be in every home
I’m glad you find my content valuable Steven! I haven’t personally tested the intellibalance 100, but I have a friend who is a mold assessment professional and he swears by the intellibalance 100. That sounds like a smart plan to convince a local HVAC distributor to sell to you. Can you let me know if you’re successful? I absolutely agree that these should be in every home.
@parak4593 thank you so much for the Renewaire ev recommendation! It looks like it's manual balance, but the cost is much lower with higher Cfm range. Definitely now a consideration! @HealthyHomeGuide I used to work in electrical distribution and these rules can be bent easily! Distributers can enter individuals in their system as an "account" - but it's much easier with local family owned or less-busy sales companies. For example, if they market that they only do Industrial and dabble in commercial, you'd have less luck than with someone who markets to Residential / commercial or is decentralized, slow that day, etc. The manufacturers themselves can often recommend their opinion on who locally or in your region is open to residential direct sales. The only trade off here is if you walk in there unsure of price they will GETCHYA. Be ready to negotiate and know your price! Funny enough, Panasonic recommended a dist company near me that was mainly plumbing - but dabbles in HVAC! Makes me wonder if electrical distributors would be allowed to order this item... Lastly, it helps to quid quo pro quo a bit ~ if yall do me this favor for my project, I'll buy the rest of my parts from you, recommend you, etc.
@@TreeeeeeeeesThis is absolutely fascinating, and could be super useful for buying ERVs at a lower price point. Your knowledge here could prove very valuable. Do you think it’d be a good idea to make a video about this? I could interview you about your strategy - do you think that could be a good future video? (Or you could make your own if you want to of course).
A full home evaporative cooler with ducting costs about $4,500 AUD installed. Only took 1/2 a day to install with ducting to 5 points around the home. You suggested that the cost of aircon and ducting was prohibitively expensive. It probably depends on what kind of aircon and ducting you get. 🙂
I’m not sure if I’m misunderstanding your comment, but: 1) An evaporative cooler and an ERV do two completely different things. 2) $4500 AUD is around $3000 USD. That’s more expensive than what I show.
You state early in the video that the cost of installing ducting in a normal home is prohibitive. I was picking up on that comment not your later solution. I'll edit the comment to make it clearer. I rather like your solution. :-)
Thank you so much for doing this! Question: Does the Broan AI Series 130 come back online after a power outage? In other words, if plugged into a smart outlet, can it be turned on and off remotely?
Cool idea (every time i see your videos I think that.) But I'm guessing you live in a zone much warmer than I do as I don't think chloroplast would have enough insulation at -35.😆 Also I'm wondering about the air exchange between panes when the window is slid partially over.
I appreciate that, thank you! I live in northern Vermont. I’ve talked to HVAC installers in this area, in the Adirondacks, and in northern Maine, and they’ve been installing this ERV in this region no problem. As far as how it’d perform in -35F, I’d imagine not optimally haha. Great question about air infiltration between panes when the window is opened. It depends on how well-made your window is, but yes, it’s a great idea to seal that gap with foam or weather stripping tape.
Hi - can you tell me why you chose the 130 CFM Energy Recovery Ventilator - why not spend an extra $100 get a bigger one even if it is overkill? Also Why does it say 150CFM has 67% Efficiency and the 160 has 75% Efficiency - wouldn't you want to get one with better efficiency? Thank you for the video - it is extremely helpful :)
Glad you found my video helpful! That’s a good question. My rationale for getting the 130 was simply that the specs said it delivers enough airflow for the size of my living space. In retrospect, I definitely could have spent the $166 more for the 150 to get a bit more airflow. As for your efficiency question, I’m not exactly sure - that might be a question for Broan. Personally, I feel that 67% vs. 75% isn’t that significant of a difference. Mine is 67% efficient and I’m very satisfied with it.
@@HealthyHomeGuide Thanks for your reply. I just got off the phone with Broan and they said it has to do with humidity - so not a big deal either way (I thought it less efficient at heat recovery which would have been more of a problem) Do you max out the air flow with your 130? Also how heavy is the unit - is it hard to navigate it from room to room? Does it come on wheels? Thank you very much!!
@@chrisjabre I don’t max out the airflow. The max airflow I can get is 100 cfm (I discuss this a bit at around 23:00), but I use only 55 cfm. The unit doesn’t come on wheels. It’s 37 lbs, so not too heavy in my opinion.
That's a fascinating concept! Algae can generate pollutants as well, so that'd be something to watch out for. Maybe some species can be safe/effective though. I'll investigate!
The ERV is about preserving indoor heat, right? What about if you want to purify the outdoor air, and use the heat from whichever air is colder? Is there an appliance for that?
Man, what do you think about air circulators like boneco f230 for example. Seems like it creates narrow and long air stream compared to wide and short air stream of ordinary air ventilators. I tested it, it really works. Have you tried that?
Interesting, I hadn't heard of that one. I like the idea of a narrow and long air stream. I've been using Dreo fans for circulation and I've been loving them - they create a narrow and long air stream too.
Brilliant - which is why I subscribed. But, I take issue with your contention that a $1,000+ commercial ERV is the only viable solution. I've seen the guts of a commercial ERV. It is a box, with a slightly smaller box at a 45 degree angle inside dividing the box into a four-chambered "heart", where the airstreams pass over one another through a central core. Find a decent welding shop, use commercial-grade duct metal to construct the boxes, build a DIY Coreplast core, install some inline greenhouse fans that are rated for 24/7/365 use. It shouldn't be that hard to build. I agree with 4DDrover; I fail to see why your DIY HRV Coreplast core with more sophisticated ERV box wouldn't work. Why wouldn't it work?
Thank you so much! I like your line of thinking. So, ERVs are quite a bit more complicated than HRVs because ERVs recover both latent and sensible energy from the air streams. Recovering sensible energy is feasible - you can build a core. Or find one (though replacement cores cost hundreds of dollars - I’ve researched this feverishly). But recovering latent energy safely and effectively is more complicated and expensive. And I consider humidity modulation to be PARAMOUNT for a healthy home in warmer months. As much as I admire your spirit of finding a welding shop and welding together sheet metal, I don’t personally consider that feasible for most people. So maybe our definitions of feasible differ there. But you seem like a renegade. Once you incorporate the labor and the parts (buying a replacement core can cost hundreds of dollars, not to mention the expense and complexity of engineering a latent heat recovery system that safely modulates the moisture of the air streams without flooding your home or causing mold issues), building a truly effective and safe DIY ERV would probably cost close to (if not over) $1000 anyway. That’s why I bought one. Thanks for your comment!
@@HealthyHomeGuide Thanks! It's been a while since I've been called a renegade. Nice to know I still can. I see that my problem is I did not understand the difference between HRV and ERV. I am designing a retirement cottage for the mountains of Arizona (out of the baking heat of the desert) but still a mild dry climate. I hope to use a GAHT system for heat and cooling, clay plaster walls to control interior humidity (clay plaster is a very effective desiccant), and appropriate solar orientation/glazing, thermal mass, and shading to manage temperature. You vastly overestimate the costs of assembling what I now know is an HRV (thanks for that truly helpful info). Can't wait to see you tackle other home design/construction issues!
@@lindacgrace2973Yup, exactly. To be clear though, I agree with you (from personal experience as you saw in my DIY HRV video) that building an HRV can be done for much cheaper than $1000. I was saying that building an ERV would be more expensive (than an HRV). I like your Arizona healthy/efficient home plan! Given that you live in such an arid region, I would say that an ERV probably isn’t necessary for you. You could probably just build a DIY HRV and be fine.
@@HealthyHomeGuide My thought exactly. With an annual average relative humidity of less than 30 percent, humidity control is not a big issue. I am curious, though. Where are you located where there is no whole-house ducting for forced air heating (the system beloved by condo builders for the past 40 years)?
Why do you recommend this approach over say just setting up a high CFM fan on one side of the house with the window open on the other side. Is the main reason simply that the outside air is not always clean? If we live in an area with good outside airquality do you think the HRV setup is still worth it? I probably just need to watch more of your videos, aside from filtration is the HRV unit doing anything else?
So, this video is about ERVs, not HRVs. I use an ERV because they moderate both the temperature and humidity of the incoming fresh air. So it's not too hot, too cold, too humid, or too dry. This is crucially important for not only comfort and energy-use, but also to avoid turning your house into a breeding-ground for mold. And yes, the filtration is also important.
@@HealthyHomeGuide Ok gotcha! So for VOCs, c02, and particulates, a simple setup with airflow and air filters will probably work but if you are trying to control humidity and temp you'll need something like an ERV
Hoping someone can answer my question. My ac unit has a fresh air damper. I can’t use it during the summer due to condensation build up. Could I use that inlet for an ERV and exhaust through one of the roofs air vents? Thank you
That's a really intense set up you have and your two-story house. Thank you for all the details. It really helps to make it practical for a DIY period but it's definitely comprehensive system you've had to go through since it's not a not central heating and air conditioning that you can modify. Kind of see why that's easier to do possibly. Although I'd hate to see the price tag to add it to the central HVAC system. I'm not sure but it sounds like I should really get some numbers on the particles and what kind of particles I have in the air that I need to filter out. I know there's a lot of dust in this super dry Central Oregon climate but I'm not sure what else there is and I should probably do a lot more research on that. I guess first step is getting some type of a tool that gives me the feedback like you had on your trip across country to measure particles and CO2 and etcetera?
Sure thing! Lucky for you, I just made a video answering your exact question! ua-cam.com/video/LiptsaKmq80/v-deo.htmlsi=9xat_jwkAJ_4V-6l (To clarify, it was a DIY HRV, not ERV).
have you considered testing by using baking soda and vinegar to generate CO2? Also if i'm only interested in improving one room, would i just want to run the 'fresh air to building' and 'stale air from building' ducts straight to that room without using all those fans? it would be about a 28 foot long run
That’s an interesting suggestion. I personally don’t see the benefit to generating CO2 with baking soda and vinegar in such a large scale application (a living space) - you’d need quite a bit of it for comprehensive testing, and would need to completely eliminate the other main source of CO2, humans, which isn’t feasible. It’s more practical (and doable) to test with humans in the living space. Good question! As I mentioned at 35:44, if you only need to ventilate one room, you can certainly decide not to use fans at all. Try to separate those ducts you mentioned as much as you can. They don’t necessarily both need to be in the same place, in fact, they’re often put far apart. Give them at least a few feet of separation and point the fresh air to building duct away from the stale air from building duct, and you’ll be okay 👍
@@HealthyHomeGuideit would help with the exact scenario you described in the video that you didn't want to do - having all the occupants stay in one room. in the literature they used about 3/5 cup of baking soda to 1.8L of vinegar
In my experience, desiccant dehumidifiers may not deliver the fresh air for which they are rated. If a desiccant dehumidifier is rated at 100cfm of fresh air delivered by its internal blower, you MUST measure to confirm performance. You may be grossly disappointed with actual performance.
Hi - I am not sure if this makes sense but why have the insulated ducts? Since it is just going to the ERV anyway and being converted there and the bad air is just going outside - why insulate them?
Great question. It’s best practice to insulate ducts that interface directly with the outdoors because cold outdoor air comes in contact with them in the winter, which can cause condensation. Insulation prevents the outer surface of the ducts from getting cold and therefore wet. I didn’t insulate the two indoor ducts that aren’t interfacing with the outdoors.
The reason is to make it so I can unlatch the door - the latches swing down and the floor gets in the way of them opening unless you elevate the ERV a bit. I just used standard sized bricks from a hardware store.
@@chrisjabre I think red bricks can have crystalline silica from clay, which can be harmful to breathe. Try finding a brick that isn’t red, but same size as your standard red brick.
The ERV in my video is 21”x21”x16” - I don’t personally feel that that’s huge (my ducts make it look bigger than it is), but if you want a thinner unit (but also longer, unfortunately), the Panasonic Intellibalance 100 ERV has a good reputation and takes MERV-13 filters.
Not sure what your climate is like, but where I've lived, there are so many reasons why that suggestion is problematic. For one, there isn't always enough natural airflow through windows - it's inconsistent. Also, what if it's too humid outside? This can cause extensive mold growth. Too dry? Too hot? Too cold? Poor air quality? Opening windows is a bad solution for most of the year.
Hehe, funny how you pronounced “Coandă effect” at 25:27 timestamp. Not particularly accurate 😊. Did you know that Henri Coandă was Romanian? Anyhow, great video!
This is a great question, and the answer is of course very complicated and depends on the specific building materials used. That being said, here’s a general trend: given that newer homes are built increasingly tightly, VOC levels within them tend to rise quite dramatically without adequate ventilation.
I think the home itself matters a lot. Before replacing some windows in my home, we didn't have high humidity issues in the winter, because the heating was pulling air from living space, and windows were leaky as hell. Most likely VOCs would be vented out as well. After we have replaced half of the windows, and changed heating, winter indoor humidity became a real issue. My feeling is older houses may had added VOCs and other nasties to the air, but the natural air exchange (thru gaps) was much higher.
Anyone with common sense puts intake above exhaust. Co2 saturated air is heavier than clean air. And considering that it will be similar temperature it will not be going up (too much) you dont want stale air from above falling down and be ssucked in by intake
I considered stratification. I honestly don't think it mattered too much in this scenario, based on my testing. But it should be taken into account, yes. I oriented the intake and exhaust in opposite directions, so one had to be pointing upward, and the other, pointing downwards. I ultimately put the intake on the bottom (facing downwards) because I was concerned that if I had placed it on the top (facing upwards), it may have sucked in rain as it dripped down.
@@HealthyHomeGuide i did based my opinion on preheating fresh air intake by exhaust of heater fumes. I know its more drastic example but i would always think like that unless someone (like yourself for example) explain to me why i should be doing other way around. I follow my logic (sometimes could be wrong due to lack of deeper education/ understanding of the subject or science etc..) But i do best in trying to apply logical conclusions in my life. Anyways. Glad you did it. Also making a video it is an effort, most of us do not put forth. Always its easy to do nothing and watch others do the job or take risks - im not an ignorant. Good luck to you and success in future endeavours.
You can just say _the_ scissors. Or if you don't want to use the definite article, you just say "with scissors." _A_ scissor would just be a useless half of a pair
I assume you mean my DIY HRV? It does work, but only in the cold, dry months because it does not modulate humidity. Only temperature. This ERV works all year round because it modulates humidity.
You don’t have to say “a pair of” scissors. It’s just scissors. I need the scissors. Do you have any scissors? Wherefore art thy scissors? Like do you always put on a pair of pants, or can you just put on some pants? I need to buy some pants. May I get in your pants? …you get the idea. People will understand that you do in fact want a matched pair.
Haha. Is that really a thing people do as a long term protocol for health? Do you use a tent? I feel like a tent could get pretty moldy and gross after a while, no? What do I do when it gets cold? Hot? Is it comfortable? Safe?
Thanks everyone for the comments! If you're curious about what happened to my DIY HRV, the difference between ERVs and HRVs, and why I don’t believe that building an ERV is feasible, check out this video of mine: ua-cam.com/video/LiptsaKmq80/v-deo.htmlsi=bsEbBQ9pKLKozY4u
I’d also like to mention that even if you live in the desert, you may still need a dehumidifier to supplement your ERV! Even arid regions can get humid in certain times of year.
Alex, YOU are a renegade, I salute you! I love everything about this video - DIY, don’t take ‘no’ for an answer, applying research and know-how, level of detail, testing, and your tone which really seems to communicate your sense of care for others in sharing your discoveries. Lots of good food for thought for healthier air at home. Thanks.
Your comment might be the most encouraging I’ve received on this channel. From one renegade to another: I salute you! You truly understand what I’m trying to do.
Having experienced severe chronic illness from a toxic home environment, my mission is to help ensure that what happened to me doesn’t happen to others.
Great comment, I 100% agree. Your channel is truely unique in the healthy home genre. I have allergies and would like to improve my home’s air quality.
I’ve watched so many other ‘experts’ explain ‘you need a ducted whole home heat pump / ERV / Dehumidifier system, my sponsored $$,$$$+ is fantastic’. I don’t have a basement, attic, and I can’t spend anything like that sort of money.
I love that your DIY projects are built with tools and materials that are realistic in time and money required. And on what other channel is the follow up, ‘well now I’ve run my DIY system it doesn’t work so well under these conditions, so I’ve purchased this product. This honestly, and your experimentation is so appreciated.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, and please continue to post exactly as you have been. Don’t feel the need to change anything. Your videos are the perfect durations, with exactly perfect camera work, audio and editing. I know how many skills and how much time it must take to post these videos, you’re doing a great job.
@@jameslotech4996 Thanks so much James! I’m really glad there are people like you who understand what I’m trying to do here. Your comment made my morning.
Studies have been done that shows that air generally takes the path of lease resistance. So, draw a line from "in" to "out". In this case, a path of about 4 feet. Especially after things settle down a bit. Maybe a bit farther, but not much farther. It would be orders of magnitude better it you ran the supply duct line across the house as far as possible to make the return trip take longer. Longer duct makes static, so you could use a larger duct, which would help a little. And just so you're not disappointed with your experiments, the various fans are actually probably doing about 20-30% of the mixing you think they are. A truck load of expensive measuring gear would confirm the actual numbers.
You have all the parts - ERV, dehu, air scrubbing, ideas about distribution. Home Performance has a great vid on how to tie it all together when you get to installing it into your home permanently.
Also, Instead of the small, restrictive filters inside the unit, you could transition the 5" duct to a larger size (some standard size of 4" pleated MERV 13-16, say 24x24 or 20x20 etc.) and back down to the 5" duct. We often do this from cardboard for proof-of-concept, and to make a model for fabrication. We call this a reverse bottleneck. A whole lot less static resistance, less costly, and filtration will last much, much longer. Ducts are generally disgusting because they have been treated badly and have never been cleaned for the life of the home.
I know this is an experimental install, but when we install these permanently, as much as we can, we run flex duct pulled as tight as we can, straight as an arrow & use hard 90s for all turns. So planning is critical. The slightest turn, sag or bunched-up flex causes huge static (resistance). We also mastic everything, but in the house, maybe some duct leakage doesn't matter.
We "exhaust" air from bathrooms, laundry, kitchen - where chemicals, moisture and odors hang out. Existing bath fan box can be gutted and duct attached to that to minimize the work necessary. It goes without saying, but I'll say it, air seal everything you can get access to while you have the chance. Every tiny crack matters. Water-tight! Imagine you are sealing a submarine from water leakage, like in "Das Boot". all the hundreds of leakage add up to leaving a large door open year-round, but it's all over, like a sieve.
Building Science Corporation is a great source for stuff. We do Net Zero Energy homes which makes me a little picky about the details that, added up, detract about 50-70%, and often more, when not executed like NASA.
Peace!
Thanks for your comment! I fully agree with you about the limitations of my setup method, and I did speak to some of them at 34:55, and throughout the video.
In this video, I’m not arguing that my setup method is optimal. I’m arguing that it can be used effectively in scenarios where we don’t have other good options - I feel that the CO2 data I presented supports that.
This method can be used by those of us who live in apartments, which can’t be altered. It can also be used by homeowners who don’t live in homes with ducts, and don’t have the money to pay a professional to retrofit an ERV into a ductless home. In many areas, there aren’t even professionals who do that kind of work!
Of course, I would not use my method in a new construction.
I do agree with all of the points you brought up - you sound very experienced. Peace to you!
@@HealthyHomeGuide Good data. Keep testing👍
here is someone no one is talking about. Any plastic that is BPA free has BPS, and BPS does the same thing as BPA. However, now that people do not know about the problem with BPS, calling something BPA free makes the problem worse. Because people think BPA free is safe.
However, Nice build, thumbs up to you.
Interesting, thanks. I’m having trouble finding online resources on polypropylene and BPS - can you recommend any?
What I mean is that just because something doesn’t have BPA in it doesn’t necessarily mean that it has a BPA substitute like BPS or BPF. So I want to verify.
Great video! My friend's home is upwards of 4000 ppm CO2 at night. It will be great to install something like this in his home.
Wow, 4000 ppm, that place is certainly in need of ventilation. Good luck!
@@HealthyHomeGuide That's OSHA territory. Good that you measure.
@@DK-vx5coTrue, that is OSHA territory.
I have additional comments based upon my experience as a radon mitigator applying ventilation and pressurization to energy efficient dwelling units in this hot, humid climate. Including high rise Multifamily.
1. I have found that ERVs and HRVs commonly move much more air than advertised. They usually over-ventilate when selected according to published performance.
2. In most tight, energy-efficient homes here in SW Florida, with two or three occupants, I have found that indoor carbon dioxide levels of 600 are easy to achieve with only 18-24 cubic feet per minute of outdoor air. Such low and precise airflows will also mitigate radon emitted from building materials up to about 7-8 picoCuries per liter. WITHOUT THE NEED TO ADD A DEHUMIDIFIER.
3. In my experience, a variable speed air mover can be controlled by a CO2 controller to maintain 600 ppm CO2 by adjusting ventilation rate automatically as occupants come and go. It is uncanny as to how well it really works.
4. It is my long-term experience that that an electronic humidity controller that is set to suspend air delivery if indoor goes above 59.9% will prevent mold without having to install a dehumidifier. A reliable controller will prevent increase in the indoor relative humidity to a level that the air conditioner can't "dance with."
5. Keep in mind that USEPA recommends all ventilation air be filtered by a MERV 13 filter as it enters the breathing zone. daisyductless.com
6. Here in SW Florida, many mechanical ventilation radon mitigation systems include a home-made filter that loads up and stops airflow within a short period. Sure, these installations with loaded filters rarely cause mold problems, but radon reduction is only temporary and for a short term until the filter is serviced again, usually every 60-90 days. Such filters are almost never serviced. And radon goes right back up, but homeowners and occupants don't know it because they only rarely retest for radon. It is not unusual to see radon systems that have not reduced radon for twelve and more years. And the owners don't know it until a buyer asks for a radon test. There will be lawsuits. And I predict that when that happens, many radon mitigators may soon thereafter have insurance cancelled.
7. Blue oil-filled manometers as substitutes for a radon meter. DON'T LET IT HAPPEN. They measure suction, not airflow. Oil displacement will be greatest when the homemade filter is completely blocked. A completely false indication that radon is under control. If I were the lawyer advising the blue oil filled manufacturers i would immediately issue directives that oil filled manometers may never be used as mechanical ventilation radon system indicators unless used with a pitot to indicate actual airflow instead of pressure. A jury would likely ask "What were they thinking when they did this with home-made filters that they knew were rarely serviced?" What would the jury's verdict be and for how many $$$$$$?
8. ERVS. If not PROPERLY serviced, air intake filter becomes more rapidly stopped up and exhaust flows remain high. RESULT? Negative indoor breathing zone pressures likely causing or increasing radon risk. Another one for the lawyers. This one could also be determined by a motion for summary judgement limited only by the extent of insurance or by later jury verdict. ERVs must be regularly and effectively serviced. They may even be the cause of totally unexpected radon exposure and lung cancer. Who would have guessed?
Thank you for adding your experience and expertise to the discussion! All that is very interesting.
Is a homeowner able to “properly” service an ERV? Or is that something a professional would need to be hired to do 3-4 times a year? I’m in South East Florida and am considering getting an ERV. Any recommendations?
Interesting solution for a renting situation. You could possibly set up a large box of some sort from Ikea like a pax closet, and put the whole thing in there to make it more aesthetically acceptable, hehe. Another idea is to glue on a layer of insulation like rockwool on the coroplast as you might get condensation on it in the winter.
I love those ideas, thank you!
I was personally just thinking of building a box out of plastic or big one out of wood... then you can simply get aluminum sheets, put some holes through them, put a thread through those holes and separate the sheets by nuts.
Thanks for the video. Any chance you could measure the power draw at different speeds? I could not find this information on Broan's site
Great work. I installed the Broan 230 HRV AI series in my attic, in a type 4 (singe return, but synchronizes with the AHU fan and ducting for supply). This was a lot of work, mainly because it almost didnt fit in my attic space, but it is in there now, and i have dialed it it. The only thing that i regret, is that i could not easily add a 4" media filter at the AHU. I have a Corsi-Rosenthal filter near the return. I think that i will be updating that filter fan to the one that you posted in another video or 6 x 120mm server fans to reduce the noise and footprint.
My primary goal was to have as much fresh air in my bedroom as i could when i sleep, with the door largely closed. CO2 went from peaking at about 1500ppm at the end of the night, to right around 750. A big win.
Keep up the good work.
Wow, awesome job 👏 I salute you for taking on such a project and successfully cutting your room’s CO2 in half even with the door closed!
I guess for a humid climate you would have to use a dehumidifier. I want to install a ventilating dehumidifier. The hard part is just figuring out the drain for the water.
Correct! For getting rid of the water, I use an automatic condensate pump. I'm working on a video explaining how to set this up.
Looking at the comments I think you should have given a half minute explanation about the differences between a HRV and ERV. Especially since you do have a HRV build video :) And why that 1000$ price is not bad for an ERV! Especially your unit does balancing by itself.
One thing I would try is to bring the fresh air duct towards your office door. Maybe on the ceiling? So more fresh air goes to the rest of the house.
Another thing: Should the house have slight positive or slight negative pressure? If I'm correct, you lean towards slight positive pressure to ensure air only enters the building thru the air filter. Right? But for example Nilan recommends slight negative pressure to avoid pushing warm humid air into the structure of your house in the winter (moisture diffusion and also small gaps, electric conduits, etc). Ok, you do have a kitchen exhaust, and only one room has the ERV, so pushing more air in might help diffusing the fresh air thru you home.
Feels like Broan is over-rating their CFM rating. Giving a rating with no ducts is completely useless. You have less ducts than what would be used in even a two room apartmant, but the actual air flow is still less than advertised. Here EU regulations do require manufacturers and sellers to give standardised air flow and efficiency numbers to buyers. But sadly most marketing stuff still says useless claims like "up to 90% effeciency"...
Great point! I suppose I overestimated how familiar people would be with the difference between ERVs and HRVs. I actually just made another video explaining it haha! Thanks for the suggestion.
I like your thinking. I don’t feel that the extra labor of fixing the fresh air duct to the ceiling or closer to the door would yield much benefit - my office is small and there isn’t much of a gap between the fresh air port and the door anyway. My circulating fans do the trick of exchanging air well. Also, it’s not that efficient to blow air along the ceiling and out of a room given that the space above the door is a wall, if that makes sense.
For those concerned with not bringing in toxic substances (such as mold spores, mouse debris, gas from a heating system, chimney soot, etc) from beyond the conditioned spaces, positive pressure is generally prudent (as I did in this video). Negatively pressurizing a home would concern me. Though it’s surprisingly difficult to actually pressurize a house unless it’s quite airtight. For most houses, which are at least somewhat leaky, you’d need much more cfm than 5-10.
Another good point about companies overestimating airflow for their devices.
This is amazing, thank you! 👏
What are you thoughts on smaller/cheaper units attached to multiple windows in a home? At a minimum, I'd like one for each occupied bedroom. It seems like the Panasonic WhisperComfort is the most reasonably priced model but I do wonder about the lack of distance between the exhaust and intake...
You’re very welcome!
You could certainly try an approach with multiple smaller units in multiple windows. I can’t vouch for the performance of ERVs I haven’t tested, but theoretically, I think cross-contamination would be more okay if an ERV only had to ventilate one bedroom, as opposed to a larger area of a home. Still, it should be minimized if possible; I’d recommend using vents facing in opposite directions in your insert. On the ERV itself, use a 90 degree duct elbow to direct the supply airstream away from the return at least.
@@HealthyHomeGuide With the Whispercomfort, the interior side is fixed and doesn't allow connecting ducts. I'm thinking of trying it anyway.
Yo Kess, incredible video man. I've been researching ERV options for windows online recently, and as luck would have it, I stumbled upon this video you created two weeks ago.
A couple questions for you:
-What is the energy consumption like for the ERV model you are using?
-How has the setup been performing in the winter? Does it noticeably lower the temperature of your office relative to other rooms in your house while running?
Hey man, it's great to hear from you! Glad you found my video and enjoyed it.
-As far as energy consumption, the PMSM ECM fan motors the Broan AI Series 130 has are relatively efficient compared to some other units on the market. Electrical characteristics are as follows: 120 volts, 60 Hz, 2.4 A, 110 W.
-I checked with a bunch of HVAC installers in northern New England, and they all said that the Broan AI Series are reliable for winter use in this region. Personally, I haven't had it long enough to be able to report on how it performs when the temperature is very cold outside (below 20F or so). When it's pretty cold outside (around 25-30F), it functions well. To be specific, at 25-30F, the temperature of my office is maybe a degree or two colder than the rest of the house, IF the office door is kept open to allow air circulation/exchange. If I close the door to my office, isolating it, the temperature in my office decreases a little more, maybe around 65F when the rest of my house is 70F. ***BUT note that I don’t have a thermostat in my office***. That's with continuous ventilation at 55 cfm. Hope this helps, and welcome to my channel!
@@HealthyHomeGuide Awesome, thanks for the reply. That's good to know the ERV does not drop the temperature of the room too much.
@@johnlally8188 For sure! That’s the magic of heat recovery!
@@HealthyHomeGuide Are you running that electric baseboard heater in your office? When the office cools, does the baseboard heater kick in more, minimizing the temp drop?
@@DK-vx5coGood question. The thermostat (for that baseboard in my office) is in a different part of the house.
You like the Santa Fe dehumidifier? I was thinking of getting the Aprilaire.
My Santa Fe compact70 has served me very well. I've heard AprilAire dehumidifiers are good as well. Whatever dehumidifier you get, make sure it takes MERV-13 filters to prevent mold from colonizing the dehumidifier.
You're like the robin hood of ERVs
Ahahah I love this comment!
Creating an ERV is super cheap. Get a tote, a bunch or coroplast, and some foam. The "core" in the ERV is just layers of coroplast where the alternating layers are orthogonal.
You're referring to an HRV. I actually have a video in which I talked about making an HRV. ERVs are not nearly as easy to make because they deal with heat AND moisture transfer, not just heat transfer like HRVs. I discussed this in the video.
Hi, thanks for your video! I am contemplating a similar install. Can you comment on the noise level for this unit at about 10-20' distance? (there is a bedroom at about that distance...).
Happy to help! At 10-20', running on a moderate fan speed, I don't feel that it's very loud at all. Maybe similar to a box fan on medium speed. That's my opinion though - for someone who hates the sound of a fan, and prefers complete silence, it might be bothersome.
Did u see the video of scientist comparing/having a co2 sensor vs voc sensor in classrooms, and sistem with vocs did better controling the fan speed than with co2
Now just need to find an auto balance ERV in Australia....
Good luck! I’ll be on the lookout.
Thx! What’s the difference between your DYI HRV and this ERV?
Good question! This ERV can run all year round, even during hotter, more humid periods because it modulates heat AND humidity, and my DIY HRV should only run in the cold, dry months because it only modulates heat - not humidity.
does this plug into a outlet or do you have to do complex electrical wiring?
It plugs into an outlet 🙂
I'm so glad I found this!!! The broan 130 popped up on my research, but I am nearly settled on the intelli-balance 100. Did the Panasonic intellibalance pop up during your research?
Either way, just wanted to add my plan is to convince a local hvac distributor to sell to me direct to customer to save a couple more dollars.
Great guide man, these should be in every home
Not sure if you looked at them, but RenewAire EV Premium S / M / L are pretty good options too though I don't recall if they autobalance.
I’m glad you find my content valuable Steven! I haven’t personally tested the intellibalance 100, but I have a friend who is a mold assessment professional and he swears by the intellibalance 100.
That sounds like a smart plan to convince a local HVAC distributor to sell to you. Can you let me know if you’re successful?
I absolutely agree that these should be in every home.
@parak4593 thank you so much for the Renewaire ev recommendation! It looks like it's manual balance, but the cost is much lower with higher Cfm range. Definitely now a consideration!
@HealthyHomeGuide I used to work in electrical distribution and these rules can be bent easily! Distributers can enter individuals in their system as an "account" - but it's much easier with local family owned or less-busy sales companies. For example, if they market that they only do Industrial and dabble in commercial, you'd have less luck than with someone who markets to Residential / commercial or is decentralized, slow that day, etc. The manufacturers themselves can often recommend their opinion on who locally or in your region is open to residential direct sales.
The only trade off here is if you walk in there unsure of price they will GETCHYA. Be ready to negotiate and know your price!
Funny enough, Panasonic recommended a dist company near me that was mainly plumbing - but dabbles in HVAC! Makes me wonder if electrical distributors would be allowed to order this item...
Lastly, it helps to quid quo pro quo a bit ~ if yall do me this favor for my project, I'll buy the rest of my parts from you, recommend you, etc.
@@TreeeeeeeeesThis is absolutely fascinating, and could be super useful for buying ERVs at a lower price point. Your knowledge here could prove very valuable. Do you think it’d be a good idea to make a video about this? I could interview you about your strategy - do you think that could be a good future video? (Or you could make your own if you want to of course).
A full home evaporative cooler with ducting costs about $4,500 AUD installed. Only took 1/2 a day to install with ducting to 5 points around the home.
You suggested that the cost of aircon and ducting was prohibitively expensive. It probably depends on what kind of aircon and ducting you get.
🙂
I’m not sure if I’m misunderstanding your comment, but:
1) An evaporative cooler and an ERV do two completely different things.
2) $4500 AUD is around $3000 USD. That’s more expensive than what I show.
You state early in the video that the cost of installing ducting in a normal home is prohibitive. I was picking up on that comment not your later solution. I'll edit the comment to make it clearer.
I rather like your solution.
:-)
Ah, I understand! Thanks for clarifying.
Thank you so much for doing this! Question: Does the Broan AI Series 130 come back online after a power outage? In other words, if plugged into a smart outlet, can it be turned on and off remotely?
You’re very welcome 🙂 that’s a great question, I’m not sure. Broan’s tech support should know.
I just checked and yes, it does come back on after a power outage.
Cool idea (every time i see your videos I think that.) But I'm guessing you live in a zone much warmer than I do as I don't think chloroplast would have enough insulation at -35.😆 Also I'm wondering about the air exchange between panes when the window is slid partially over.
I appreciate that, thank you! I live in northern Vermont. I’ve talked to HVAC installers in this area, in the Adirondacks, and in northern Maine, and they’ve been installing this ERV in this region no problem. As far as how it’d perform in -35F, I’d imagine not optimally haha.
Great question about air infiltration between panes when the window is opened. It depends on how well-made your window is, but yes, it’s a great idea to seal that gap with foam or weather stripping tape.
Hi - can you tell me why you chose the 130 CFM Energy Recovery Ventilator - why not spend an extra $100 get a bigger one even if it is overkill? Also Why does it say 150CFM has 67% Efficiency and the 160 has 75% Efficiency - wouldn't you want to get one with better efficiency?
Thank you for the video - it is extremely helpful :)
Glad you found my video helpful! That’s a good question. My rationale for getting the 130 was simply that the specs said it delivers enough airflow for the size of my living space. In retrospect, I definitely could have spent the $166 more for the 150 to get a bit more airflow.
As for your efficiency question, I’m not exactly sure - that might be a question for Broan. Personally, I feel that 67% vs. 75% isn’t that significant of a difference. Mine is 67% efficient and I’m very satisfied with it.
@@HealthyHomeGuide Thanks for your reply. I just got off the phone with Broan and they said it has to do with humidity - so not a big deal either way (I thought it less efficient at heat recovery which would have been more of a problem)
Do you max out the air flow with your 130?
Also how heavy is the unit - is it hard to navigate it from room to room? Does it come on wheels?
Thank you very much!!
@@chrisjabre I don’t max out the airflow. The max airflow I can get is 100 cfm (I discuss this a bit at around 23:00), but I use only 55 cfm.
The unit doesn’t come on wheels. It’s 37 lbs, so not too heavy in my opinion.
I wonder if growing algae in a fishtank would help co2 levels in a house. Algae absorbs most of the atmosphereic co2 much more than plants do
That's a fascinating concept! Algae can generate pollutants as well, so that'd be something to watch out for. Maybe some species can be safe/effective though. I'll investigate!
The ERV is about preserving indoor heat, right?
What about if you want to purify the outdoor air, and use the heat from whichever air is colder? Is there an appliance for that?
Can I ask what your goal is, exactly?
Theres gotta be a a poor man's HRV. Please help us out.
There is! Check his earlier video!... But check the pinned comment to learn about the humidity/mold issue he encountered.
Man, what do you think about air circulators like boneco f230 for example. Seems like it creates narrow and long air stream compared to wide and short air stream of ordinary air ventilators. I tested it, it really works. Have you tried that?
Interesting, I hadn't heard of that one. I like the idea of a narrow and long air stream. I've been using Dreo fans for circulation and I've been loving them - they create a narrow and long air stream too.
@@HealthyHomeGuide yes, it's the same, just another producer
Ah, interesting!
Brilliant - which is why I subscribed. But, I take issue with your contention that a $1,000+ commercial ERV is the only viable solution. I've seen the guts of a commercial ERV. It is a box, with a slightly smaller box at a 45 degree angle inside dividing the box into a four-chambered "heart", where the airstreams pass over one another through a central core. Find a decent welding shop, use commercial-grade duct metal to construct the boxes, build a DIY Coreplast core, install some inline greenhouse fans that are rated for 24/7/365 use. It shouldn't be that hard to build. I agree with 4DDrover; I fail to see why your DIY HRV Coreplast core with more sophisticated ERV box wouldn't work. Why wouldn't it work?
Thank you so much! I like your line of thinking. So, ERVs are quite a bit more complicated than HRVs because ERVs recover both latent and sensible energy from the air streams. Recovering sensible energy is feasible - you can build a core. Or find one (though replacement cores cost hundreds of dollars - I’ve researched this feverishly). But recovering latent energy safely and effectively is more complicated and expensive. And I consider humidity modulation to be PARAMOUNT for a healthy home in warmer months.
As much as I admire your spirit of finding a welding shop and welding together sheet metal, I don’t personally consider that feasible for most people. So maybe our definitions of feasible differ there. But you seem like a renegade.
Once you incorporate the labor and the parts (buying a replacement core can cost hundreds of dollars, not to mention the expense and complexity of engineering a latent heat recovery system that safely modulates the moisture of the air streams without flooding your home or causing mold issues), building a truly effective and safe DIY ERV would probably cost close to (if not over) $1000 anyway. That’s why I bought one. Thanks for your comment!
@@HealthyHomeGuide Thanks! It's been a while since I've been called a renegade. Nice to know I still can. I see that my problem is I did not understand the difference between HRV and ERV. I am designing a retirement cottage for the mountains of Arizona (out of the baking heat of the desert) but still a mild dry climate. I hope to use a GAHT system for heat and cooling, clay plaster walls to control interior humidity (clay plaster is a very effective desiccant), and appropriate solar orientation/glazing, thermal mass, and shading to manage temperature. You vastly overestimate the costs of assembling what I now know is an HRV (thanks for that truly helpful info). Can't wait to see you tackle other home design/construction issues!
@@lindacgrace2973Yup, exactly. To be clear though, I agree with you (from personal experience as you saw in my DIY HRV video) that building an HRV can be done for much cheaper than $1000. I was saying that building an ERV would be more expensive (than an HRV).
I like your Arizona healthy/efficient home plan! Given that you live in such an arid region, I would say that an ERV probably isn’t necessary for you. You could probably just build a DIY HRV and be fine.
@@HealthyHomeGuide My thought exactly. With an annual average relative humidity of less than 30 percent, humidity control is not a big issue. I am curious, though. Where are you located where there is no whole-house ducting for forced air heating (the system beloved by condo builders for the past 40 years)?
@@lindacgrace2973 Yup! I’ve lived pretty much exclusively in New England. I’ve settled in northern Vermont.
Why do you recommend this approach over say just setting up a high CFM fan on one side of the house with the window open on the other side. Is the main reason simply that the outside air is not always clean? If we live in an area with good outside airquality do you think the HRV setup is still worth it? I probably just need to watch more of your videos, aside from filtration is the HRV unit doing anything else?
So, this video is about ERVs, not HRVs. I use an ERV because they moderate both the temperature and humidity of the incoming fresh air. So it's not too hot, too cold, too humid, or too dry. This is crucially important for not only comfort and energy-use, but also to avoid turning your house into a breeding-ground for mold. And yes, the filtration is also important.
@@HealthyHomeGuide Ok gotcha! So for VOCs, c02, and particulates, a simple setup with airflow and air filters will probably work but if you are trying to control humidity and temp you'll need something like an ERV
Correct! I commend you for asking.
Hoping someone can answer my question. My ac unit has a fresh air damper. I can’t use it during the summer due to condensation build up. Could I use that inlet for an ERV and exhaust through one of the roofs air vents? Thank you
Push vs pull with this setup?
That's a really intense set up you have and your two-story house. Thank you for all the details. It really helps to make it practical for a DIY period but it's definitely comprehensive system you've had to go through since it's not a not central heating and air conditioning that you can modify. Kind of see why that's easier to do possibly. Although I'd hate to see the price tag to add it to the central HVAC system. I'm not sure but it sounds like I should really get some numbers on the particles and what kind of particles I have in the air that I need to filter out. I know there's a lot of dust in this super dry Central Oregon climate but I'm not sure what else there is and I should probably do a lot more research on that. I guess first step is getting some type of a tool that gives me the feedback like you had on your trip across country to measure particles and CO2 and etcetera?
Thanks for video. But what with your DIY ERV you've built earlier?
Sure thing! Lucky for you, I just made a video answering your exact question! ua-cam.com/video/LiptsaKmq80/v-deo.htmlsi=9xat_jwkAJ_4V-6l
(To clarify, it was a DIY HRV, not ERV).
have you considered testing by using baking soda and vinegar to generate CO2?
Also if i'm only interested in improving one room, would i just want to run the 'fresh air to building' and 'stale air from building' ducts straight to that room without using all those fans? it would be about a 28 foot long run
That’s an interesting suggestion. I personally don’t see the benefit to generating CO2 with baking soda and vinegar in such a large scale application (a living space) - you’d need quite a bit of it for comprehensive testing, and would need to completely eliminate the other main source of CO2, humans, which isn’t feasible. It’s more practical (and doable) to test with humans in the living space.
Good question! As I mentioned at 35:44, if you only need to ventilate one room, you can certainly decide not to use fans at all. Try to separate those ducts you mentioned as much as you can. They don’t necessarily both need to be in the same place, in fact, they’re often put far apart. Give them at least a few feet of separation and point the fresh air to building duct away from the stale air from building duct, and you’ll be okay 👍
@@HealthyHomeGuideit would help with the exact scenario you described in the video that you didn't want to do - having all the occupants stay in one room. in the literature they used about 3/5 cup of baking soda to 1.8L of vinegar
@@tubulartuber ah, interesting, okay. I’ll look into this. Thank you!
@@HealthyHomeGuideI tried to post a link but youtube deleted it. google "Ventilation Assessment by Carbon Dioxide Levels in Dental Treatment Rooms"
In my experience, desiccant dehumidifiers may not deliver the fresh air for which they are rated. If a desiccant dehumidifier is rated at 100cfm of fresh air delivered by its internal blower, you MUST measure to confirm performance. You may be grossly disappointed with actual performance.
Are you familiar with ECOR Pro desiccant dehumidifiers? I’ve heard they’re really good.
Did you rule out ductless cycling ERVs?
Hi - I am not sure if this makes sense but why have the insulated ducts? Since it is just going to the ERV anyway and being converted there and the bad air is just going outside - why insulate them?
Great question. It’s best practice to insulate ducts that interface directly with the outdoors because cold outdoor air comes in contact with them in the winter, which can cause condensation. Insulation prevents the outer surface of the ducts from getting cold and therefore wet.
I didn’t insulate the two indoor ducts that aren’t interfacing with the outdoors.
Can I just use a dual hose portable ac that uses fresh air? A good one with a variable speed inverter costs around $400.
Dual hose portable ACs don't bring in a significant volume of fresh air, unfortunately.
Hi - you said you put 4 bricks under your ERV in order to elevate it - was there a reason for this? What kind of bricks did you use? - Thank you!!
The reason is to make it so I can unlatch the door - the latches swing down and the floor gets in the way of them opening unless you elevate the ERV a bit. I just used standard sized bricks from a hardware store.
@@HealthyHomeGuide Like 4 red bricks?
@@chrisjabre I think red bricks can have crystalline silica from clay, which can be harmful to breathe. Try finding a brick that isn’t red, but same size as your standard red brick.
@@HealthyHomeGuide You are awesome. Thanks so much for your help.
@@chrisjabre Happy to help 🙂
Can someone recommend a small ERV unit I can set up like in the video? I only need it for my tiny bedroom and the one in the video is huge
The ERV in my video is 21”x21”x16” - I don’t personally feel that that’s huge (my ducts make it look bigger than it is), but if you want a thinner unit (but also longer, unfortunately), the Panasonic Intellibalance 100 ERV has a good reputation and takes MERV-13 filters.
@@HealthyHomeGuide Thanks for taking the time to reply! Unfortunately, that Panasonic unit isn't available here in Germany but I'll keep looking :)
@@eel845 Ah, I see. Good luck! Hopefully another German viewer sees this.
Just turn the have to fan only and open two opposing windows.
Not sure what your climate is like, but where I've lived, there are so many reasons why that suggestion is problematic. For one, there isn't always enough natural airflow through windows - it's inconsistent. Also, what if it's too humid outside? This can cause extensive mold growth. Too dry? Too hot? Too cold? Poor air quality? Opening windows is a bad solution for most of the year.
Hehe, funny how you pronounced “Coandă effect” at 25:27 timestamp. Not particularly accurate 😊. Did you know that Henri Coandă was Romanian? Anyhow, great video!
Hahah sorry about that! Interesting though - I had no idea he was Romanian. Glad you like the content 😊
How do VOCs compare for indoor air from decade to decade in home building techniques?
This is a great question, and the answer is of course very complicated and depends on the specific building materials used. That being said, here’s a general trend: given that newer homes are built increasingly tightly, VOC levels within them tend to rise quite dramatically without adequate ventilation.
@@HealthyHomeGuide thanks sir! That makes sense.
I think the home itself matters a lot. Before replacing some windows in my home, we didn't have high humidity issues in the winter, because the heating was pulling air from living space, and windows were leaky as hell. Most likely VOCs would be vented out as well. After we have replaced half of the windows, and changed heating, winter indoor humidity became a real issue.
My feeling is older houses may had added VOCs and other nasties to the air, but the natural air exchange (thru gaps) was much higher.
Whats the vibration like on that ERV unit?
I don’t feel any vibration from it.
❤
I hear ERV has a paper core and cannot be cleaned?
Anyone with common sense puts intake above exhaust.
Co2 saturated air is heavier than clean air. And considering that it will be similar temperature it will not be going up (too much) you dont want stale air from above falling down and be ssucked in by intake
I considered stratification. I honestly don't think it mattered too much in this scenario, based on my testing. But it should be taken into account, yes.
I oriented the intake and exhaust in opposite directions, so one had to be pointing upward, and the other, pointing downwards. I ultimately put the intake on the bottom (facing downwards) because I was concerned that if I had placed it on the top (facing upwards), it may have sucked in rain as it dripped down.
@@HealthyHomeGuide i did based my opinion on preheating fresh air intake by exhaust of heater fumes. I know its more drastic example but i would always think like that unless someone (like yourself for example) explain to me why i should be doing other way around.
I follow my logic (sometimes could be wrong due to lack of deeper education/ understanding of the subject or science etc..)
But i do best in trying to apply logical conclusions in my life.
Anyways. Glad you did it.
Also making a video it is an effort, most of us do not put forth.
Always its easy to do nothing and watch others do the job or take risks - im not an ignorant.
Good luck to you and success in future endeavours.
Nice :)
Thanks!
You can just say _the_ scissors. Or if you don't want to use the definite article, you just say "with scissors." _A_ scissor would just be a useless half of a pair
Agreed haha
why not install it in the attic? is it a rental property ?
what about ur diy erv? does not working?
I assume you mean my DIY HRV? It does work, but only in the cold, dry months because it does not modulate humidity. Only temperature. This ERV works all year round because it modulates humidity.
@@HealthyHomeGuide ah i see.
You don’t have to say “a pair of” scissors. It’s just scissors.
I need the scissors.
Do you have any scissors?
Wherefore art thy scissors?
Like do you always put on a pair of pants, or can you just put on some pants?
I need to buy some pants.
May I get in your pants?
…you get the idea. People will understand that you do in fact want a matched pair.
hahaha agreed
i can only guess what his partner says
She says “hi”
Omg bro, just sleep outside already.
Haha. Is that really a thing people do as a long term protocol for health? Do you use a tent? I feel like a tent could get pretty moldy and gross after a while, no? What do I do when it gets cold? Hot? Is it comfortable? Safe?
Whacky.......I'm going to open a window instead!
... In the winter? Maybe the indoors aren't for you.