Great stuff. You talk about surface that makes sense. Most people think surface below 1000 is not useful. I’ve found It really is on sport patterns. And regular pads don’t last as long.
I keep forgetting that I can adjust my ball before 1st frame. That's what practice time is for. Read the lane and then make adjustments/changes as necessary. Great videos for bowlers of all levels.
This is a fantastic video! I love how you used multiple grits to create different angles to the pocket. For a novice bowler, this should help them learn how to make more or even reduce the hook potential of a bowling ball.... 🎳
Very nice mechanics, you throw a beautiful shot! Kinda surprised you don’t own a ball spinner but hey if it doesn’t get old for you doing it by hand then keep doing your thang brotha!
Wow amazing video i always wondered how too use surface change i always thought i didnt need it now i see i actually do and if done properly i dont think you need more then 3-4 bowling balls even in tournament play also i feel atleast on house shot i can use my favorite ball for the whole session as long as i put the correct surface change on the ball this is honestly one of the greatest bowling tutorials of how to change surface with a pad ive ever watched and this made it easy to understand that whole abalone bull shit with all the numbers 500,1000,2000,3000 i never understood wtf people where try to say probably because bowling people wanna get all technical to make themselves sound smart like physicist lol like quit all the scientific stuff explain it so regular people can understand which you did beautifully by the way thank you. Also you throw a nice ball.
Mikey...love your style and form...plus your vids are remarkable...terminology is perfect...great work...I'm trying to get back into the game...however I was never able to hook...your vids are very helpful, but I still cant apply the hook. If I may ask what is your ball speed, and ball weight.???
You can do this process at home or even at the bowling center. You can even polish your ball by hand using the Trucut hand applied polish by Creating the Difference.
Would love to see this video too. I stand on the far left, and the only thing I know is when I get my first split its time for an adjustment. Would like to get more ahead of it than that.
Loft is completely different than lift. Loft it out there and the ball just turns up with nothing much on it. Lifting it out will get it over the burnt out heads (when it double dribbles/bounces,hooks early) and still get a big reaction to the pocket ( flat 10 to a swisher!) If you have a great line and moving left means crossing another bowlers path,that's when changing to a straighter/less dull ball throwing same line maybe best. Transition is when the conditioner/oil moves into your breakpoint. If you only know one shot, just change breakpoints/balls. If you know different lines ( in practice before starting, I throw several different lines with different balls for backup when the shot disappears) try it if you have knowledge of the reaction. Or it maybe as simple as just a little different hand position. I actually move/adjust every frame. If you bowl a 5 man team, the lane has a full game thrown on it every time it's your turn on that lane. 10th frame is the worst. It could be 3 games if everybody marks. Then, I move a few boards left to be sure ( sitting for an extended time and 3 games of wear on the shot). Usually, chase the shot to the right as the oil carries down stretching out the break point. Then chase it back as the oil goes beyond the break point when the ball starts running high pocket. If you find you are only striking for a very limited time (2-4 in a row then nothing), this maybe due to standing in the same spot all night. Every time a ball is thrown , the shot changes. If everybody is throwing sanded sponges, it will change very fast.
I found out I dont match up well with polished balls. They dont tip enough even when I play straighter. Throwing no thumb. I want to crack the shine and use a duller surface so it picks up sooner and I dont leave the 2 8s and over under condditions.
Mr Pinel, I understand surfacing a ball. What I do not understand is why you prefer to stand at one place with surface X versus further right or left with surface Y. Is there advantage to playing further left or right?
Because if I didnt move left on this pattern when sanding, it would hook past the pocket... I moved my feet so I could continue to strike off the same breakpoint to show the difference in motion at different levels of sanding.
@@BowlingScience I understand that logic. I was unclear in my question, why chose to hit it with the maroon and stand far left vs using the green pad and standing more right vs using the grey pad and being further right. How and why do you decide to use the specific surface and correlating line
@@mattpalasik8214 on house patterns, I let the lanes tell me how far left or right to move my feet and then use the ball/surface that gives me the most forgiveness at the amount of hook necessary. On sport, I find the part of the lane that is most forgiving, and pick surface to determine how far down the lane I want the ball to read, and put my feet wherever they need to go to line that up. I hope that makes sense!
For me, with 450+ rpms, 18 mph, 19° tilt, 75° rotation here's what I carry... 1. Black Widow Urethane, Asymmetrical, 4000, 60 x 3.5 x 30, I dont use plastic, I flat hand spares with this or my strike ball. Gives me a urethane ball for worst case scenario at tournaments. 2. Squatch Hybrid, Symmetrical, 4000, 90 x 1.75 x 45, Low Flare layout. Gives me a straighter, angular look for short oil and drier lanes. 3. Results, Asymmetrical, 500/2000, 90 x 1.5 x 45, Low Flare layout. Straighter, more forward look for short oil or drier lanes. 4. Conspiracy Theory, Asymmetrical, 500/2000, 30 x 4 x 70, Pin Down layout. Smooths out over under and great on all house shots. Loses tilt in the midlane and rolls strong and smooth. Can move left on dry lanes, or keep my target in front of me on tighter conditions. 4. Zing! Hybrid, asymmetrical, 360/1000, 35 x 3.5 x 25, Medium cover, strong angular shape. Maintains tilt to the breakpoint, and reads strong. Great on flatter patterns and if I use a less aggressive hand position, it can work on house. 5. Results, asymmetrical, 500/1000, 50 x 3.5 x 20, Strong cover, strong angular shape. Maintains tilt to the breakpoint, and reads strong. Great on flatter patterns and if I use a less aggressive hand position, it can work on house. 6. Results, asymmetrical, 360/500, 15 x 4.5 x 30, Strong Cover, Strong midlane read. Great on long oil, great for using strong midlane read to smooth outh medium and house patterns as well.
@@BowlingScience, thanks for the response. My rev rate and ball speed is on par with yours. My problem was I was to scare to use a lot of surface and I've been listening to people around me as of late. My game has been up and down but maintain over a 210 average. Keep up the videos man and I really look forward to your next one. Thanks again for the response.
You don't "have to" use water with any pad or paper and yes scotchbrites, Abralons pads, wet/dry paper can be used on any ball to adjust the surface or resurface them. Water vs Dry sanding: Wet sanding is pretty much the standard when using a home spinner (or at the proshop where dust build up can become a problem) When your down at the lanes of course you would dry sand, wet sanding isn't really practical there. Wet sanding produces a more sheen like finish, water acts as a lubricant to a point so the cutting isn't as aggressive. So the surface will have a somewhat finer texture. Also wet sanding helps keep the dust and heat from friction down, the water also helps reduce buildup of the cuttings in your pad/paper which let's them cut better and last longer. Dry sanding is a bit more aggressive and will give you a duller surface. But you get more friction which generates more heat and dust. Also the pad can load up which can reduce the effectiveness of the cutting.
your axis rotation is something you should look at...you lose ballspeed + control throwing it like PW. Stay behind the Ball and watch your avg goes 10-15+
Mikey Pinel! I was wondering why you were calling Mo "Dad" in your other videos. I thought you were just being cute. FYI: 3M Scotch-Brite Grit Specs: 7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - 1200-1500 grit CAMI (Talc) (~2500 grit FEPA) 7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - 800 grit. CAMI (Silicon Carbide) (~1600 grit FEPA) 6448 - Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - 600 grit CAMI (Silicon Carbide) (~1200 grit FEPA) 7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - 320 grit CAMI (Aluminum Oxide) (~320 grit FEPA) 6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - 240 grit CAMI 7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad 150 grit CAMI 7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - 60 grit CAMI
@@guezwho67 probably about 3000, the white pad is hard to get to cut by hand, the ones I use are like 3/4" thick... I find it works best to smooth out after cutting with a rougher grit first. It takes a little more pressure and speed, you have to got the surface hot with the friction.
These vids are, hands down, THE best tools for learning ball reaction on the net. I thought I knew much, now I know much more!
Lol, I use to bowl in leagues at pinboys. Just happened to run across this channel after bowling for the first time in years.
Great stuff. You talk about surface that makes sense. Most people think surface below 1000 is not useful. I’ve found It really is on sport patterns. And regular pads don’t last as long.
I keep forgetting that I can adjust my ball before 1st frame. That's what practice time is for. Read the lane and then make adjustments/changes as necessary. Great videos for bowlers of all levels.
Nor after you throw you first warm up in league or tournament.
I'm calling it, this channel will blow up.
This is a fantastic video! I love how you used multiple grits to create different angles to the pocket. For a novice bowler, this should help them learn how to make more or even reduce the hook potential of a bowling ball.... 🎳
Great video as usual, love the video work, slo mo, overlays etc.
Very nice mechanics, you throw a beautiful shot! Kinda surprised you don’t own a ball spinner but hey if it doesn’t get old for you doing it by hand then keep doing your thang brotha!
Nice vid Mikey, i use the brown burgundy one mostly. I think i will purchase the others and play around with the surface some...
Awesome, I’ll be sure to use the brown pad when bowling on shark.
Fantastic video, thank you! Please throw a couple shots on the far right for us strokers.
Great job again my brother...awesome video! 👌🏿
Wow amazing video i always wondered how too use surface change i always thought i didnt need it now i see i actually do and if done properly i dont think you need more then 3-4 bowling balls even in tournament play also i feel atleast on house shot i can use my favorite ball for the whole session as long as i put the correct surface change on the ball this is honestly one of the greatest bowling tutorials of how to change surface with a pad ive ever watched and this made it easy to understand that whole abalone bull shit with all the numbers 500,1000,2000,3000 i never understood wtf people where try to say probably because bowling people wanna get all technical to make themselves sound smart like physicist lol like quit all the scientific stuff explain it so regular people can understand which you did beautifully by the way thank you. Also you throw a nice ball.
Great video Mikey keep the content coming
Once again you nailed it out if the park! if I come out there to visit family I'll have to check out Pinboys!
Thanks for the love! And please do my friend!
Again, very nice video and i really like the wow that's radical
Mikey...love your style and form...plus your vids are remarkable...terminology is perfect...great work...I'm trying to get back into the game...however I was never able to hook...your vids are very helpful, but I still cant apply the hook.
If I may ask what is your ball speed, and ball weight.???
Awesome video on sanding a bowling 🎳 ball. I’ve always took it to a PSO as I dont have a ball spinner... thanks for the tip!
You can do this process at home or even at the bowling center. You can even polish your ball by hand using the Trucut hand applied polish by Creating the Difference.
Mikey thanks for the info. Perfect explanation begining to end! I loved how you showed the different reactions of grits.
OUTSTANDING!!!
Nice video Mikey #TeamBowlifi
Nice video Mikey, keep up the good work. That's Radical 😜
What's your thoughts on resurfacing a ball by doing grits like maroon pad, green pad, then brunswick crown factory compound
Great video!
Green pad in bag for when oil is a little heavy on my house shot:)
Must be nice! 😉
Where can you buy the different colored scratch pads? Thanks.
Love This video!!!!!!!
Have you tryed ctd pads? I never tryed scotch bright! Looks super good and clean, might have to try😳
did you even watch the video lmao
Hi
Im Alex from germany and im in Bowling for 40 years.
What Sanding Pads do you have?
Alex
In the video you say to wipe the ball down after your finished with the pad, does it matter if you use ball cleaner also?
When to loft, change ball, and when to move left. Do you have any suggestions, get lost in transition . Great video by the way
Would love to see this video too. I stand on the far left, and the only thing I know is when I get my first split its time for an adjustment. Would like to get more ahead of it than that.
Loft is completely different than lift. Loft it out there and the ball just turns up with nothing much on it. Lifting it out will get it over the burnt out heads (when it double dribbles/bounces,hooks early) and still get a big reaction to the pocket ( flat 10 to a swisher!) If you have a great line and moving left means crossing another bowlers path,that's when changing to a straighter/less dull ball throwing same line maybe best. Transition is when the conditioner/oil moves into your breakpoint. If you only know one shot, just change breakpoints/balls. If you know different lines ( in practice before starting, I throw several different lines with different balls for backup when the shot disappears) try it if you have knowledge of the reaction. Or it maybe as simple as just a little different hand position. I actually move/adjust every frame. If you bowl a 5 man team, the lane has a full game thrown on it every time it's your turn on that lane. 10th frame is the worst. It could be 3 games if everybody marks. Then, I move a few boards left to be sure ( sitting for an extended time and 3 games of wear on the shot). Usually, chase the shot to the right as the oil carries down stretching out the break point. Then chase it back as the oil goes beyond the break point when the ball starts running high pocket. If you find you are only striking for a very limited time (2-4 in a row then nothing), this maybe due to standing in the same spot all night. Every time a ball is thrown , the shot changes. If everybody is throwing sanded sponges, it will change very fast.
That last overlay shot is fire!
I took my Hyroad Pearl down to 500 with CTD pads.. The ball was already a hook monster, now it's completely ridiculous.
Nice ball motion Mikey! Which layout are you using on this bad boy?
30 x 4 x 70... the same one from the PIN DOWN episode!
I found out I dont match up well with polished balls. They dont tip enough even when I play straighter. Throwing no thumb.
I want to crack the shine and use a duller surface so it picks up sooner and I dont leave the 2 8s and over under condditions.
Chicken wings the hell out of it but he gets it done for sure. The back-ends are so damn clean wish our house had ends like that
Mr Pinel, I understand surfacing a ball. What I do not understand is why you prefer to stand at one place with surface X versus further right or left with surface Y. Is there advantage to playing further left or right?
Because if I didnt move left on this pattern when sanding, it would hook past the pocket... I moved my feet so I could continue to strike off the same breakpoint to show the difference in motion at different levels of sanding.
@@BowlingScience I understand that logic. I was unclear in my question, why chose to hit it with the maroon and stand far left vs using the green pad and standing more right vs using the grey pad and being further right. How and why do you decide to use the specific surface and correlating line
@@mattpalasik8214 that is a great question!
@@BowlingScience is there any chance you will answer?
@@mattpalasik8214 on house patterns, I let the lanes tell me how far left or right to move my feet and then use the ball/surface that gives me the most forgiveness at the amount of hook necessary. On sport, I find the part of the lane that is most forgiving, and pick surface to determine how far down the lane I want the ball to read, and put my feet wherever they need to go to line that up. I hope that makes sense!
Where can you buy the different scotch brite pads? All I have seen is the green one.
I will have them for sale in packs next week. 1 one each of 5 different grits for $10. Message me on FB messenger: Mikey Pinel
What’s the white pad
Nice socks 🤙🤙
In a bowling aresnal let's say 6 ball including a plastic. What surface do maintain on each ball plus core type if you dont mind sharing that? TIA!
For me, with 450+ rpms, 18 mph, 19° tilt, 75° rotation here's what I carry...
1. Black Widow Urethane, Asymmetrical, 4000, 60 x 3.5 x 30, I dont use plastic, I flat hand spares with this or my strike ball. Gives me a urethane ball for worst case scenario at tournaments.
2. Squatch Hybrid, Symmetrical, 4000, 90 x 1.75 x 45, Low Flare layout. Gives me a straighter, angular look for short oil and drier lanes.
3. Results, Asymmetrical, 500/2000, 90 x 1.5 x 45, Low Flare layout. Straighter, more forward look for short oil or drier lanes.
4. Conspiracy Theory, Asymmetrical, 500/2000, 30 x 4 x 70, Pin Down layout. Smooths out over under and great on all house shots. Loses tilt in the midlane and rolls strong and smooth. Can move left on dry lanes, or keep my target in front of me on tighter conditions.
4. Zing! Hybrid, asymmetrical, 360/1000, 35 x 3.5 x 25, Medium cover, strong angular shape. Maintains tilt to the breakpoint, and reads strong. Great on flatter patterns and if I use a less aggressive hand position, it can work on house.
5. Results, asymmetrical, 500/1000, 50 x 3.5 x 20, Strong cover, strong angular shape. Maintains tilt to the breakpoint, and reads strong. Great on flatter patterns and if I use a less aggressive hand position, it can work on house.
6. Results, asymmetrical, 360/500, 15 x 4.5 x 30, Strong Cover, Strong midlane read. Great on long oil, great for using strong midlane read to smooth outh medium and house patterns as well.
@@BowlingScience, thanks for the response. My rev rate and ball speed is on par with yours. My problem was I was to scare to use a lot of surface and I've been listening to people around me as of late. My game has been up and down but maintain over a 210 average. Keep up the videos man and I really look forward to your next one. Thanks again for the response.
Where can I get these pads?
How long does the hook last on a sanded ball?
You know how pops feels about pin down layouts..... :)
I remember his exact words being "Bring a spare ball" :P
How long do scotch brite pads last
I get the same 10 balls out of scotch brite pad that I do out of abralon. And you can use both sides!
So you don't have to use water with this pad? And can be used for any bowling ball?
You don't "have to" use water with any pad or paper and yes scotchbrites, Abralons pads, wet/dry paper can be used on any ball to adjust the surface or resurface them.
Water vs Dry sanding:
Wet sanding is pretty much the standard when using a home spinner (or at the proshop where dust build up can become a problem)
When your down at the lanes of course you would dry sand, wet sanding isn't really practical there.
Wet sanding produces a more sheen like finish, water acts as a lubricant to a point so the cutting isn't as aggressive. So the surface will have a somewhat finer texture.
Also wet sanding helps keep the dust and heat from friction down, the water also helps reduce buildup of the cuttings in your pad/paper which let's them cut better and last longer.
Dry sanding is a bit more aggressive and will give you a duller surface. But you get more friction which generates more heat and dust. Also the pad can load up which can reduce the effectiveness of the cutting.
@@bowl1820 so once I use my sander dry I clean my ball then?
@@allenthomas914 You would want to at least wipe the ball off to remove any dust still on the surface after dry sanding.
So where do you get theses pads from?
search for 3M materials near you. Some hardware stores also have them.
your axis rotation is something you should look at...you lose ballspeed + control throwing it like PW. Stay behind the Ball and watch your avg goes 10-15+
Where can i find those pads
Hardware store near paint, auto supply, amazon...
Grocery store.. Kitchen cleaner aisle 👍
anyplace that sells automotive paint, may sell singles so you dont have to buy a box
So, more surface is using lower grits. Less surface is using higher grit. Yes?
Correct!
Mikey Pinel! I was wondering why you were calling Mo "Dad" in your other videos. I thought you were just being cute.
FYI:
3M Scotch-Brite Grit Specs:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - 1200-1500 grit CAMI (Talc) (~2500 grit FEPA)
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - 800 grit. CAMI (Silicon Carbide) (~1600 grit FEPA)
6448 - Green, called Light Duty Hand Pad - 600 grit CAMI (Silicon Carbide) (~1200 grit FEPA)
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - 320 grit CAMI (Aluminum Oxide) (~320 grit FEPA)
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - 240 grit CAMI
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad 150 grit CAMI
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - 60 grit CAMI
Screenshotted!
Mickey should get a sponsor and kick back from 3M for this masterpiece lol
White would be considered which one CTD or abralon sir? I ask because I can get these pads all day.
@@guezwho67 probably about 3000, the white pad is hard to get to cut by hand, the ones I use are like 3/4" thick... I find it works best to smooth out after cutting with a rougher grit first. It takes a little more pressure and speed, you have to got the surface hot with the friction.
@@christopherwilson7004 #teamscotchbrite
Wo kann ich diese Pads bestellen??
www.amazon.com/StewMac-Scotch-Brite-Different-Polishing-Refinishing/dp/B07DLDP6HS
Andreas Stiller Thanks 👍🏻
Bowling Science what grain are the pads?
😂😂 i use to use scotch bright before realizing people sand their balls. i was ahead of my time 😂
i love the conspiracy theory. great ball
That’s Radical ‼️😑
That was a BIG oops!
lolz i didnt know you were relates to Mo... or are you?
I am his son... yes
100
Need some tru cut pads by ctd! Pads made for bowling balls! #teamctd
Great video!