Something to note that nobody ever says, is that you can polish any grit. You can do 500 grit polish, for a long sharp motion. Or 4000 polish for a long smooth motion
Can also do a wet or dry sanding too. Currently have a 1500 wet sand on a ball that makes it almost as long as a Pearl, but way more angular. Absolutely love how it moves now
You're correct bringing this up; However, I don't see it that way. To me, the more "teeth" underneath the polish (500/1000) is going to be more traction promoting additional midland read. I would think that 2000/3000 and then polish would be making the ball way more clean through the heads, thus more energy retention and sharper
I had a woodworking teacher tell me "The higher the grit, the finer it gets". I've always used this saying to teach others what sandpaper is doing to a surface
Glad to see that you give time to your fans and those who have questions. It means a lot and really shows how humble and respectful you really are. Thank you❤
I am not texting that number, also if this WAS real wouldn't anyone else be able to text that number as well, and claim their nonexistent prize. You might want to try harder. Good luck
Good explanation but I think you left out one thing. I've noticed that a lot of bowlers don't know what 1500 grit polish means. It's really simple though. The ball is just sanded down to 1500 grit then polish is applied after.
just seeing this vid, new to the sanding ball world. One question I have is what can be done to the 180 grit sanded ball to get it back closer to the box finish or even the 1500 grit for next roll or even next game
Thanks, this is the video I needed I think. Getting back into Bowling after 20 years and turning 70. I bought the NU Blue as it seemed what I wanted (I bowled 200avg with the original). I tried it the other day and it hooked like a mother. But now I see that its 500 out of the box. I think I need to get it taken to 1500 - 2000 to take some hook out and let it roll farther as I dont have the ball speed I had before. Im at 9.2-9.8 and Im sure in the old days I was closer to 14. Let the learning begin.
This is a great video for people who don't know what ball surface does and does cover the brass tacks very well. However I would like to elaborate on something: 1) The ball isn't hooking more, it's getting more friction on the lane. So the ball is actually hooking EARLIER. the Shape of the hook motion is determined by the core of the bowling ball and the drilling layout. You can see that in the overlay the shape the ball makes as it travels is the same. But at 180 grit it hooks early. 2) Ball energy when it hits the pocket is impacted by surface. Basic physics dictates that when your ball starts hooking it loses some of its initial energy that is used to change direction. Generally speaking the lower grit you use, when the ball hits the pins it will have a weaker impact because it's using more of it's kinetic energy.
I have a plastic ball for 10 pin spares. How important is it to keep the surface of the ball clean? If I don't clean it, will I get some right to left movement more than if I do clean it often?
Thank you for the breakdown. Your video solidified my thought process for what my next action should be. I will be bowling in a center with wood lanes and want my starter ball to grab better. I feel like 4000/3000 should do the trick, but we shall see.
I use surface to tackle 2 different lane types that i bowl on. I bowl on a league with synthetic lanes standard house shot with a ball with a fairly strong coverstock sanded 500, 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000. Then i bowl another league with wood lanes n short oil so ALOT of friction and use a weaker coverstock ball sanded 500, 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000, then polished to help it get farther down lane before it reacts. The ball i use on synthetic i can use in the 1st game there if i dont throw low revs on it but after that or come around it too much and itll hook at my feet. I should also mention if i throw that ball i use on the wood lanes on the synthetic i have to really get some revs on it or itll never read the lanes. Itll just slide or react so late it just barrels through the pins
Nice simple way to give the basic idea of grit. If anyone has any questions about more details, you can also find helpful videos on my channel as i have been testing things with a surface scanner for a couple of years now.
Alr 220, i'm looking for a good ball and I want to know what the best ball would be for a bowler like myself that wants the ball to get farther diown the lane before hooking and also reactive or urethane
That average bowler definitely will understand so that’s awesome wondered if you could maybe walk us through a process of an oil pattern you practice a few shots on it and then kinda tell us from the ball reaction what you think type surface would help control the pocket bc I know I’ll never god down to 180 hahaha as a two hander I don’t want to be lofting the gutter I’ll just go to urethane but I’d be curious your thoughts on surface to urethane as well thanks for all the videos the gorillas is my favorite to date
So I have a Proton Physix and I love that ball so much. But after about three games I'm lofting the gutter because it's just hooking way too early. Is there surface that could take away a little hook as well and keep the ball a little more manageable?
The other direction would be to polish it and make it shiny. But as the proton physix is a ball that is made and meant for hooking early - I’d recommend getting a weaker bowling ball and saving the proton for heavier oil conditions
Bro I really appreciate this video. I’ve been waiting for someone to break it down like this, thank you so much for these awesome videos your my favorite bowler/tuber 🤙💯🔥
Does the surface grit effect the pins reaction upon impact? I've seen some people's bowling balls having white dots on em. Is it the white paint from the pins?
Just as a disclaimer if u have a reactive ball that comes out the box at 1500 grit and polished if u change that surface it's nearly impossible to get the factory finish back even tho there's 1500 grit pads n polish it won't b exactly the same
I know you’re going 2 handed now but have a question. I’m a 1hander and I cannot, no matter what I do get my hand behind my ball on release. I always release from on top of the ball. How do I fix this?
@@digicatt9320 up to you. I'd suggest starting off as practice with a lighter house ball and see if you want to go for the switch. I changed to 1-handed, no-thumb when I started trying to hook the ball and have found it works well for me.
As a noob the question I've always had is, let's say you have a Zen that comes out of the box at 1500, you use an 800 surface pad, then you want it at 1500 again. Can you just use a 1500 pad or would you have to get the ball polished?
A Zen is 1500 polished (well, now Reacta Gloss), but depending on how SPI gets the 1500, it could be 500/1000/1500 then polish on top. Using staged grits allows you to create a variable depth scratch pattern on the ball surface, and the polish is just enough to blunt the tips of the scratches to give it a shine. Too much polish and you will knock down the 500/1000/1500 grit too much and the ball will act more like a 5000 grit which won't grab the lane at all and probably skid itself through the pins with minimal hook.
Picking up earlier when you have some surface on it, that also means that it loses energy much faster down the lane, right? So if the ball is too hard to control, because it's to aggressive down lane, you can put some surface on it to make it a little smoother on the last part of the lane. Or am I completely off target here?
Depending on ur cover, core, n ball level... yes lower surface will use alot of an entry level balls energy up in the fronts but a high level ball is going to store energy until it hits the pins carry won't be a crazy issue the issue is what u need the ball to do does it need tamed down or does it need more hook n if so early or later ppl get nervous changing surfaces I will tell u I rip every cover off every new ball I get n find the surface I need that specific ball at
@@MrRoss3291 I only have 3 balls + a spare ball, and I never bothered (or dared) to resurface any of them. A guy at the bowling alley told me that once you resurface the ball, it will never be completely the same as new again, even with the same grit. My Storm Crossroads is getting old and scratched up, and I love that ball, so I may give it a try and resurface that one.
@Audun Wangen I put a disclaimer in the comment section if u want to surface a ball if it's a Solid or Urethane u can change the surface n put it right back... now if ur balls reactive n comes out the box at 1500 grit with polish that's the tough one u can't get it exactly back, there are 1500 grit pads n polish but it won't b the same that's the only issue and 3 of mine came that way they're at 360, 500, and 2000 grits respectively
Yea ur cross roads is a hyroad so that's 1500 grit with polish now its older ur better off detoxing the ball pulling all that oil off cuz it may say 1500 grit with polish but after 50+ games ur balls surface is at 2500 grit which is the grit of the lane
@@MrRoss3291 Thanks for the tips. I haven't deep cleaned it, so I'll try that first. I've heard different tips, but I think the bucket and dishwasher soap is what I'll try first.
and I don't use surface anymore cuse I just got my venom shock resurface with its original 40000 grit back to brand new and it hooks again! thats another option to! if ball stop hooking try getting it detoxs and surface back to its original grit
This video is so clutch I literally just looked up this week what the difference in surfaces are😂. Your next video should be what the different numbers mean on the layouts I’m a bowler and I still don’t know😂😅
The video I didn’t know I needed. Got me curious to check out the differences between my pearl purple and the new hybrid 2.0 black widow. I used to think my pearl purple hooked like a mofo and then I bowled with the hybrid and holy hell, it’s like I’m learning all over again.
Yes if you take it back to what it was at For example, for the diamond diva. You’d need to bring it back to 1500 grit then apply some polish to it afterwards
am not a pba pro but I been around pba pro to know what surface is! this is for ppl that don't know what it is! what surface is it make any ball u have very dall the have from 100 all the way to 10000 grit avalon pad they can make ur ball hook very early or late depending on the grit u put on the ball! if ur bowling on a house shot u may not need it but if ur bowling on any sport shot pattern and ur ball not hooking then surface can cone into play! Thats y alot of pba pros use surface! but if ur ball doesn't wanna hook on a easy house shot surface can help a lil and depending on what ball ur throw the # surfaces u should use!
Something to note that nobody ever says, is that you can polish any grit. You can do 500 grit polish, for a long sharp motion. Or 4000 polish for a long smooth motion
Thats fkn interesting af
Can also do a wet or dry sanding too. Currently have a 1500 wet sand on a ball that makes it almost as long as a Pearl, but way more angular. Absolutely love how it moves now
On behalf of the grit-polishing world, thank you.
You're correct bringing this up; However, I don't see it that way. To me, the more "teeth" underneath the polish (500/1000) is going to be more traction promoting additional midland read. I would think that 2000/3000 and then polish would be making the ball way more clean through the heads, thus more energy retention and sharper
This was explained marvelously. Great video, please do more like this. Bowling can be really hard to learn about sometimes.
I like this “tips with 220” series. You are an excellent teacher!
I had a woodworking teacher tell me "The higher the grit, the finer it gets". I've always used this saying to teach others what sandpaper is doing to a surface
Bro someone gotta stop this fake 220.
Glad to see that you give time to your fans and those who have questions. It means a lot and really shows how humble and respectful you really are. Thank you❤
Do you really think I am that dumb? I am slightly offended that you think I am this stupid!
I am not texting that number, also if this WAS real wouldn't anyone else be able to text that number as well, and claim their nonexistent prize. You might want to try harder. Good luck
Haha, he took the comment down. Let's stop fake Michael
Man I wish more UA-camrs would use that overlay like you've done here it really shows the difference well
great edit with the overlays etc helps to see the difference alot. great job
I have a new ball that is not hooking as much as I’d like. Would I first attempt to change the surface before changing the ball layout?
220 Average Bowler: “I will show you a minute tip
The Video: *8 Minutes Long*
Great video! Make more like this ! It’s educational for the basic bowlers !
Good explanation but I think you left out one thing. I've noticed that a lot of bowlers don't know what 1500 grit polish means. It's really simple though. The ball is just sanded down to 1500 grit then polish is applied after.
Totally new and cool direction for your channel. Very helpful explanation. Look forward to more Layman explanations of bowling mysteries.
just seeing this vid, new to the sanding ball world. One question I have is what can be done to the 180 grit sanded ball to get it back closer to the box finish or even the 1500 grit for next roll or even next game
Thanks, this is the video I needed I think. Getting back into Bowling after 20 years and turning 70. I bought the NU Blue as it seemed what I wanted (I bowled 200avg with the original). I tried it the other day and it hooked like a mother. But now I see that its 500 out of the box. I think I need to get it taken to 1500 - 2000 to take some hook out and let it roll farther as I dont have the ball speed I had before. Im at 9.2-9.8 and Im sure in the old days I was closer to 14.
Let the learning begin.
Your videos are great dumbs it down for me haha. How about a video using surface VS oil patterns
This is a great video for people who don't know what ball surface does and does cover the brass tacks very well. However I would like to elaborate on something:
1) The ball isn't hooking more, it's getting more friction on the lane. So the ball is actually hooking EARLIER. the Shape of the hook motion is determined by the core of the bowling ball and the drilling layout. You can see that in the overlay the shape the ball makes as it travels is the same. But at 180 grit it hooks early.
2) Ball energy when it hits the pocket is impacted by surface. Basic physics dictates that when your ball starts hooking it loses some of its initial energy that is used to change direction. Generally speaking the lower grit you use, when the ball hits the pins it will have a weaker impact because it's using more of it's kinetic energy.
You are correct but this video is aimed at the person newly getting into bowling and doesn’t even know that surface is a thing that exists.
I have a plastic ball for 10 pin spares. How important is it to keep the surface of the ball clean? If I don't clean it, will I get some right to left movement more than if I do clean it often?
The overlay comparison is great! Great way to show your point!
After you resurface a ball, how long does it take to get the oil on the lane to shine it and make it more polished?
Less than 10 shots. Its not the oil that changes the surface, its the lane and ball return (mostly ball return)
Mike mad props - your video skilz are really good ((((hugs)))
You put a lot of work into that. Well done.
Thanks Jen 😁
Thank you for the breakdown. Your video solidified my thought process for what my next action should be. I will be bowling in a center with wood lanes and want my starter ball to grab better. I feel like 4000/3000 should do the trick, but we shall see.
Your two handed ball roll is absolutely bananas in a good way! You definitely are upping that game, let’s see that regional win soon 🙏
This was awesome!! Please do more noob content in the future!!!
Would have been interesting to see what polished 180 grit reaction is.
Great use of video graphics. Well done.
Is wet/dry sandpaper the same as those sanding pads? As far as grit.
I use surface to tackle 2 different lane types that i bowl on. I bowl on a league with synthetic lanes standard house shot with a ball with a fairly strong coverstock sanded 500, 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000. Then i bowl another league with wood lanes n short oil so ALOT of friction and use a weaker coverstock ball sanded 500, 1500, 2000, 3000, 4000, then polished to help it get farther down lane before it reacts. The ball i use on synthetic i can use in the 1st game there if i dont throw low revs on it but after that or come around it too much and itll hook at my feet. I should also mention if i throw that ball i use on the wood lanes on the synthetic i have to really get some revs on it or itll never read the lanes. Itll just slide or react so late it just barrels through the pins
Nice simple way to give the basic idea of grit. If anyone has any questions about more details, you can also find helpful videos on my channel as i have been testing things with a surface scanner for a couple of years now.
Shameless plug. I’ll allow it 😂
@@220avg LOL I have to say that my channel is not NEARLY fun as yours though. ;)
can i use a normal sand paper to sand the bowling ball? Or,do i really need to buy a sanding pad for bowling balls?
Alr 220, i'm looking for a good ball and I want to know what the best ball would be for a bowler like myself that wants the ball to get farther diown the lane before hooking and also reactive or urethane
Thing was hooking as soon as you set it down, LOL.
Always a good day when 220 uploads :)
Also plz make another video with your world largest fingerhole bowling ball . I constantly watch that video lmao
Maybe I’ll bring it back 😂 worlds largest holes Vs Worlds shortest span?? Maybe?
@@220avg Yes 😀
@220 Average Bowler you're gonna need a glove!
I'd like to hear more about polish on a bowling ball. Regular 2000 grit and 2000 polished are way different, for example. Explain......
That average bowler definitely will understand so that’s awesome wondered if you could maybe walk us through a process of an oil pattern you practice a few shots on it and then kinda tell us from the ball reaction what you think type surface would help control the pocket bc I know I’ll never god down to 180 hahaha as a two hander I don’t want to be lofting the gutter I’ll just go to urethane but I’d be curious your thoughts on surface to urethane as well thanks for all the videos the gorillas is my favorite to date
Cool tech bowling 220 bowler
True 😎😎
@@220avg yeah
Gaylord Perry has nothing on this.
So I have a Proton Physix and I love that ball so much. But after about three games I'm lofting the gutter because it's just hooking way too early. Is there surface that could take away a little hook as well and keep the ball a little more manageable?
The other direction would be to polish it and make it shiny. But as the proton physix is a ball that is made and meant for hooking early - I’d recommend getting a weaker bowling ball and saving the proton for heavier oil conditions
@@220avg any good recommendations? I'd like to stick with Storm products but I'd also like to get that elusive 300 someday... 🙃
@@racingaerials4493 can’t go wrong with a hyped solid if you want a weaker solid ball. Could also use a symmetrical pearl. I like my Fate a lot.
@@racingaerials4493 electrify pearl is a good weaker storm ball.
@@racingaerials4493 Hy-Road family, IQ Tour Ruby, Revenant, etc... Just about most balls in the SPI lineup are lower strength than the Proton Physix.
Bro I really appreciate this video. I’ve been waiting for someone to break it down like this, thank you so much for these awesome videos your my favorite bowler/tuber 🤙💯🔥
Does the surface grit effect the pins reaction upon impact?
I've seen some people's bowling balls having white dots on em. Is it the white paint from the pins?
you should try 9 pin bowling. There's a few bowling Alleys outside of Austin Texas.
Aren't they all membership only?
ok, you have shown that the lower the grit, the earlier it hooks. But what does the polish vs non polish do to a ball?
I've been bowling league for about 50 years and never knew this was a thing, gonna mess around with it. thnx for the info.
Altering the surface is new to me. How long does the surface change last?
Just as a disclaimer if u have a reactive ball that comes out the box at 1500 grit and polished if u change that surface it's nearly impossible to get the factory finish back even tho there's 1500 grit pads n polish it won't b exactly the same
can you explain axis tilt and rotation? like how it affects ball motion n stuff :D
ps if you make the vid, ill buy a shirt and always wear it anytime i step into a bowling ally. no exceptions, if, and, or butts
I know you’re going 2 handed now but have a question.
I’m a 1hander and I cannot, no matter what I do get my hand behind my ball on release. I always release from on top of the ball. How do I fix this?
You could try not putting your thumb in the ball. That will force you to keep your hand under it.
@@MikeDCWeld like as practice or completely change my style?
@@digicatt9320 up to you. I'd suggest starting off as practice with a lighter house ball and see if you want to go for the switch. I changed to 1-handed, no-thumb when I started trying to hook the ball and have found it works well for me.
You should do a video of different surfaces on the same ball
No self-respecting bowler uses instant grits.
As a noob the question I've always had is, let's say you have a Zen that comes out of the box at 1500, you use an 800 surface pad, then you want it at 1500 again. Can you just use a 1500 pad or would you have to get the ball polished?
You don’t have to polish it, it will come out nicer if you do 1200 then 1500, the more increments the better. But you can always go back
A Zen is 1500 polished (well, now Reacta Gloss), but depending on how SPI gets the 1500, it could be 500/1000/1500 then polish on top. Using staged grits allows you to create a variable depth scratch pattern on the ball surface, and the polish is just enough to blunt the tips of the scratches to give it a shine. Too much polish and you will knock down the 500/1000/1500 grit too much and the ball will act more like a 5000 grit which won't grab the lane at all and probably skid itself through the pins with minimal hook.
Picking up earlier when you have some surface on it, that also means that it loses energy much faster down the lane, right? So if the ball is too hard to control, because it's to aggressive down lane, you can put some surface on it to make it a little smoother on the last part of the lane. Or am I completely off target here?
Depending on ur cover, core, n ball level... yes lower surface will use alot of an entry level balls energy up in the fronts but a high level ball is going to store energy until it hits the pins carry won't be a crazy issue the issue is what u need the ball to do does it need tamed down or does it need more hook n if so early or later ppl get nervous changing surfaces I will tell u I rip every cover off every new ball I get n find the surface I need that specific ball at
@@MrRoss3291 I only have 3 balls + a spare ball, and I never bothered (or dared) to resurface any of them. A guy at the bowling alley told me that once you resurface the ball, it will never be completely the same as new again, even with the same grit. My Storm Crossroads is getting old and scratched up, and I love that ball, so I may give it a try and resurface that one.
@Audun Wangen I put a disclaimer in the comment section if u want to surface a ball if it's a Solid or Urethane u can change the surface n put it right back... now if ur balls reactive n comes out the box at 1500 grit with polish that's the tough one u can't get it exactly back, there are 1500 grit pads n polish but it won't b the same that's the only issue and 3 of mine came that way they're at 360, 500, and 2000 grits respectively
Yea ur cross roads is a hyroad so that's 1500 grit with polish now its older ur better off detoxing the ball pulling all that oil off cuz it may say 1500 grit with polish but after 50+ games ur balls surface is at 2500 grit which is the grit of the lane
@@MrRoss3291 Thanks for the tips. I haven't deep cleaned it, so I'll try that first. I've heard different tips, but I think the bucket and dishwasher soap is what I'll try first.
and I don't use surface anymore cuse I just got my venom shock resurface with its original 40000 grit back to brand new and it hooks again! thats another option to! if ball stop hooking try getting it detoxs and surface back to its original grit
This was PERFECTLY needed 💯🎯
after you surface your ball, can you go back to the original surface?
What's a good grit to go with usually?
This video is so clutch I literally just looked up this week what the difference in surfaces are😂. Your next video should be what the different numbers mean on the layouts I’m a bowler and I still don’t know😂😅
having not much oil on lane gets same effect at my local alley
Finally some overlay. Very nice!
1:12 lol world's shortest span makes a cameo.
Why didn’t you show some at 4000 grit?
Good stuff homie. Bowl a 220 with 220 grit ball
I like the background music. Where did you get it from?
I would put 180 grit and the old skool urethane balls they probably hook like the modern ones
Great explanation for beginners👍
excellent demo ...learned alot
I don't believe that there is a green screen behind you. I think you have super powers but you won't confirm it
The video I didn’t know I needed. Got me curious to check out the differences between my pearl purple and the new hybrid 2.0 black widow. I used to think my pearl purple hooked like a mofo and then I bowled with the hybrid and holy hell, it’s like I’m learning all over again.
Can you do a surface change in the middle of a game?
Very professionally done video!
Video Idea: Have the tippy top portion at 500 grit then the middle portion 150 grit then the bottom portion 80 grit. @220avg
They do sell 5000 grit pads
I was conflicted in clicking the like button because the counter was on 666, and I didn't want to be the one to change it.
I am a newby but cant you get same reaction by slowing your speed
Not quite the same effect
1:12 so cute
I think I speak for us all when I say I appreciate you proving the green screen
Ahhh yes, Mr. 220 himself
After using the pad, can the ball return to its normal reaction?
Yes if you take it back to what it was at
For example, for the diamond diva. You’d need to bring it back to 1500 grit then apply some polish to it afterwards
am not a pba pro but I been around pba pro to know what surface is! this is for ppl that don't know what it is! what surface is it make any ball u have very dall the have from 100 all the way to 10000 grit avalon pad they can make ur ball hook very early or late depending on the grit u put on the ball! if ur bowling on a house shot u may not need it but if ur bowling on any sport shot pattern and ur ball not hooking then surface can cone into play! Thats y alot of pba pros use surface! but if ur ball doesn't wanna hook on a easy house shot surface can help a lil and depending on what ball ur throw the # surfaces u should use!
I always wondered but never took the time to look it up, lol thanks papa mike, lemme see that haircut
The overlay was awesome
This video is fun! Thank you!
Wouldn’t this ruin the ball?
Well done. Simple is always best.
Video ends….now I’m going to lowes for some 60 grit sand paper
I'd like to see you bowl with the Mongoose Lifter 😁
The Stock Finish, you consistently hit between boards 13-15 and afterwards with 180 Grit, it was closer to 17-19 as you did not get the Ball Outward.
Mike moved to the left to compensate for the grit or it'd be in the gutter. Watch the video again.
On the first shot with the overlays.. the trajectory was the same. But the ball was hooking before it even got to the arrows
I totally agree @metro14207. If this video is for observation purposes the outcome or result should be a true representation of the modification.
Oman this was great! YOUR FUNNIEST VIDEO YET!
Great video thank you.
Great video that help me understand more
Well stated.!!🎳🎳🎳😀😀😀
You should play a game and change the surface every shot
but......... WHEN? when do you want to see an earlier reaction? what is my ball doing that I would say "let me put 2000 on this bad boy"? thanks
Switched to 2 handed?
I joined Patreon. It's still active, right?
JEN! Thank you! Yes it’s still active for the people who want to support the UA-cam channel. But I haven’t been able to find time to post on it
@@220avg Considering you're working so much, it's understandable. I know you'll post when you can and that's ok.
Imo no reason to use surface on a house shot
“non bowler”. hey man you can’t say that
Great video
Oh great, now you have a green screen. Now we're in trouble .. you with a green screen .. yikes!! .. 🤣🤣🤣
Now explain the difference between urethane and reactive ball
How old are you?
12
@@220avg for legal reasons i cannot say what i wanted to say
@@220avg 5 years older than me. Respect ! lol
SAY IT
I think you should have made your fake background like you are giving a TED talk.
Are you still a 220 avg bowler?
Get yo money king