Quick heads up to newer bowlers: You can only put surface on the ball in practice. It's against USBC rules to make surface alterations after the start of league or tournament play.
Which is a stupid rule that only forces people to have to carry more balls. I emailed USBC rules and asked them why the rule was put in place...they couldn’t tell me, other than guessing it had to do with making a mess in the settee area (which could obviously be easily avoided).
@@TiSLunar but it’s a rule that can be circumvented...I can bring 6 balls to league with different surfaces, but can’t adjust one with a pad...it’s dumb.
I think you've made a video on this subject before. Still good stuff. A note : The way Kyle surfaced that ball was really messy and didn't go over the whole ball the same way. I know that for the video it doesn't have to, but still, If you don't have a consistent way of using pads, you will get significant variations in final average grit of the ball and on the areas where the ball is at lower grit or not. Keep up the good works guys, we love you!
Depends on lol pattern but usually lower grit hooks earlier. Higher hooks later. So it depends how fast you hit dry so it’s never the same which will hook more vs other because lanes are different. Higher grit on house is usually going to hook more of you go outside early and is snappier. Lower grit earlier hook and more control.
I recognized frontier lanes! Lately I've been using 3000 grit or 4000 grit balls on their house shot. Been working well. Used a vintage vapor zone grilled pin up with 3000 and did well with it
I noticed Brad and Kyle ball release is so near their sliding foot. Is there a video showing how to release the ball near the sliding foot? Would appreciate it!
Thank you Brad and Kyle. I think this is helpful for many tournament bowlers. I agree 100% with you of the importance. Question? Still using Abralon - is CTD Pads not the better solution today?
wow what a funny coincidence.. i just tried dulling up my idol pearl not even a week ago. Went from Polish to a 1000 Pad and after that hit it with a 3000 grit pad. Sadly there was nowhere near enough oil on the lane to contain the ball.. ^^ Gonna test again tomorrow on my oily home center and see what the ball does. Gonna take my Motiv Trident Abyss with me aswell to compare the two balls. In Theory the Trident Abyss should be a lot stronger. Cant wait to try it. ^^
what kind of reaction are you looking for? What shape to your line? Those two questions dictate surfacing of your ball. For instance, lots of midlane oil then go to the 3000 so the backend reaction is more angular. Or, if you want the ball to check up and read that midlane better go to the 1000; the ball will read earlier and be less angular on the backend.
@@bigrikstube well my motiv trident abyss at 1000 grit rolls pretty nicely i would say.. i like that motion a lot. strong, early and continuous. But sometimes when there is very little oil on the lane or the transition hits hard i have to go to a shiney ball in order to avoid lofting my abyss across the whole lane. I have my Idol Pearl (i think i like it polished the best), my Phaze 3 is perfect at 3000 grit by hand and my new Electrify Pearl is also godlike polished. ;) But as far as ball reaction, shape and effectivity goes my trident abyss is still king for me (If i have enough oil on the lane that is) ^^
@@Tenpinmaster Try this: 3000 grit and a nonabrasive wax, or I like the storm 2000 ball conditioner, it applies a "surface" with the "valleys" shined. What you get is that skid through the mids from the "shiny" surface but there is an angular reaction on the back end; just don't overhit the ball or it gets dodgy control wise.
What is the limit on how many times you can change the surface off the ball? I know the USBC rule is that the USBC number must be showing, but how long does it take for the number to be removed?
Hi guys, how are you? Two things a comment from me any question. My comment is I am still a beginner Bowler , but I’m definitely more advanced. Then when I first started and I did not have any current polishes/surface accessories at this time because I did not want to mess anything up and I don’t know what I’m doing. that leads me to my questions. One: when you do want to hit it with surface or polish. what is the right pad or clean material for the right ball number two how can you determine if it’s a ball change simply moving your eyes or feet to the pattern then to decide what type of service adjustments you need to make?
I enjoy watching your videos. I am subscribed watcher, and learned quite a bit. Here's a topic for you: What kind of bowling balls would be consider transition balls? Do they have to be pearls, hybrids, or solids with polish surfaces? It is one of my areas that I'm having with.
I always on almost all balls do 500 then 2000 for house shot. Found that trucut works way better then aberlon. I don't have to sand my balls near as much since switching.
You can polish the ball with a pro shop polish that makes the surface return to shine. You would have to scuff your ball for like a year every day to where the ball would need to be entirely replaced because of weight. Even then it's like never going to happen because of resurfacing.
I just got my first ball, a Brunswick Igniter Solid. The spec page on their website says it's "Finish: 500, 2000 Siaair Micro Pad". Does this mean it is 2000 grit? Does this also mean if I change the surface that I can use a 2000 abralon pad to bring the ball back to its "original" state?
I have a tournament coming up at 43' chameleon (26ml units of oil) was thinking about putting 2000 tru cut pad to my idol pearl as its basically out of box.
What if you want it to go longer? And to make a ball less angular, and more continuis, could you take it to 2000 then polish it? And if it doesn't go long enough go to 3000 then put a polish on it?
Once you take a pad to a ball, is there any way to get it back? As basically a league bowler, I only carry a couple balls. So if I “add surface” to a ball has it forever been changed? It would seem so, so may be a silly question.
When you add surface you dull the ball with a pad and cause friction to hook the ball. if you want to remove surface you can polish the ball and cause less friction and less hook. So over time the lanes oil will cause what is called lane-shine causing less reaction. This is why bowlers always wipe there balls between throws. If you really pad the hell out of your ball, you can have your pro shop do a re surfacing. Remember to use products from your pro shop that are USBC safe. And once league starts you can't modify your balls surface anymore.
No.. no surface changes once play begins. And play begins once the 1st ball is thrown (by anyone) in competition. So if you’re in a tournament with 200 people bowling, once anyone throws a ball in frame 1, play has begun and you cannot alter the surface.
So I bowl league on some really old wood lanes that have the above ground ball return so moving far left isn't an option and the lanes transition so rapid. I use a IQTNP to start and it quickly becomes too much ball and try to go to a All road after. But nothing works either through the face or I get too much angle and leave 10's like crazy. Drop about 40 pins in average compared to normal lanes. Only bowlers who average high are low rev players going right up 5 and walking it in. But I have a high rev rate and can't do that. Most ridiculous lane conditions I've ever battled. What would you do to attack lanes like that.
I’m actually getting a urethane ball, but not sure which storm urethane ball I should get. I normally throw around 15-18 mph, and the suggestion would really help
do you really need to press so hard on the pad to the ball? usually i could just turn a few time only and i can use 1 abralon pad for quite a few times more
Well 2 things, he was only really pressing that hard to make the surface really rough and pick up early for the video. I highly doubt if he needed to put surface on a ball in a tournament that he would press that hard. Also pros go through so many abralon pads its insane, its not their first thought, they can always get more.
You bring a ball down to 500 surface and when it's unusable, you of course put it away. Now it's a day later or after the tournament and you want that ball back to what it was, say 3000. How do you do that? All videos show how to put surface on the ball but I can't find one about putting polish back on the ball. Advice...
Think of the ball surface like a piece of wood furniture you want to refinish. The 500 grit roughs the surface up, but add 1000 grit and that smooths the surface and 3000 would smooth the surface even more. Just like with wood, it’s often better to progressively move up to 1000 then 3000 to give the balk a more uniform finish. Once you bring the ball back to the grit you want, you can add polish.
Adding surface is a complete misnomer. You’re actually removing surface and finish, similar to wet sanding a cars paint where you’re cutting and leveling.
Quick heads up to newer bowlers: You can only put surface on the ball in practice. It's against USBC rules to make surface alterations after the start of league or tournament play.
It’s against the rules to get caught 😂
Thanks I came here to ask that question.
Which is a stupid rule that only forces people to have to carry more balls. I emailed USBC rules and asked them why the rule was put in place...they couldn’t tell me, other than guessing it had to do with making a mess in the settee area (which could obviously be easily avoided).
@@DGV_Tips its the same as in golf, you're not aloud to improve your lie outside of practice rounds. you adjust before it counts
@@TiSLunar but it’s a rule that can be circumvented...I can bring 6 balls to league with different surfaces, but can’t adjust one with a pad...it’s dumb.
Kyle congrats on that 300, that first title is around the corner.
I'm glad to see somebody else knew about it
And brad throwing one as well, man the house is on fire. Not literally
I’m a simple man, I see Brad and Kyle video, I click
How are you guys doing? Great to see uploads again!
TV show next week, I’m pulling for u both!!
Lighting so good it looks like a green screen.
I think you've made a video on this subject before. Still good stuff. A note : The way Kyle surfaced that ball was really messy and didn't go over the whole ball the same way. I know that for the video it doesn't have to, but still, If you don't have a consistent way of using pads, you will get significant variations in final average grit of the ball and on the areas where the ball is at lower grit or not. Keep up the good works guys, we love you!
Greetings from Munich, Bavaria. I love watching your videos. This video is also good. Thumps Up
Like the info. Would love to bowl. Nothing going in California right now.
Might have to wait till next year
what is the difference between the 2000 and 500 surface change pads? which makes the ball hook more?
Depends on lol pattern but usually lower grit hooks earlier. Higher hooks later. So it depends how fast you hit dry so it’s never the same which will hook more vs other because lanes are different. Higher grit on house is usually going to hook more of you go outside early and is snappier. Lower grit earlier hook and more control.
I recognized frontier lanes! Lately I've been using 3000 grit or 4000 grit balls on their house shot. Been working well. Used a vintage vapor zone grilled pin up with 3000 and did well with it
I noticed Brad and Kyle ball release is so near their sliding foot. Is there a video showing how to release the ball near the sliding foot? Would appreciate it!
Thank you Brad and Kyle. I think this is helpful for many tournament bowlers. I agree 100% with you of the importance. Question? Still using Abralon - is CTD Pads not the better solution today?
LOL... where do you think CTD gets their pads? I ordered from them once and got lower grit pads that said Abralon on them.
The edited Da***t lol . Great video! Thank you
wow what a funny coincidence.. i just tried dulling up my idol pearl not even a week ago.
Went from Polish to a 1000 Pad and after that hit it with a 3000 grit pad. Sadly there was nowhere near enough oil on the lane to contain the ball.. ^^
Gonna test again tomorrow on my oily home center and see what the ball does. Gonna take my Motiv Trident Abyss with me aswell to compare the two balls.
In Theory the Trident Abyss should be a lot stronger. Cant wait to try it. ^^
what kind of reaction are you looking for? What shape to your line? Those two questions dictate surfacing of your ball. For instance, lots of midlane oil then go to the 3000 so the backend reaction is more angular. Or, if you want the ball to check up and read that midlane better go to the 1000; the ball will read earlier and be less angular on the backend.
@@bigrikstube well my motiv trident abyss at 1000 grit rolls pretty nicely i would say.. i like that motion a lot. strong, early and continuous. But sometimes when there is very little oil on the lane or the transition hits hard i have to go to a shiney ball in order to avoid lofting my abyss across the whole lane. I have my Idol Pearl (i think i like it polished the best), my Phaze 3 is perfect at 3000 grit by hand and my new Electrify Pearl is also godlike polished. ;)
But as far as ball reaction, shape and effectivity goes my trident abyss is still king for me (If i have enough oil on the lane that is) ^^
@@Tenpinmaster Try this: 3000 grit and a nonabrasive wax, or I like the storm 2000 ball conditioner, it applies a "surface" with the "valleys" shined. What you get is that skid through the mids from the "shiny" surface but there is an angular reaction on the back end; just don't overhit the ball or it gets dodgy control wise.
What is the limit on how many times you can change the surface off the ball? I know the USBC rule is that the USBC number must be showing, but how long does it take for the number to be removed?
Awesome. Anything on hand release positions?
Hi guys, how are you? Two things a comment from me any question. My comment is I am still a beginner Bowler , but I’m definitely more advanced. Then when I first started and I did not have any current polishes/surface accessories at this time because I did not want to mess anything up and I don’t know what I’m doing. that leads me to my questions. One: when you do want to hit it with surface or polish. what is the right pad or clean material for the right ball number two how can you determine if it’s a ball change simply moving your eyes or feet to the pattern then to decide what type of service adjustments you need to make?
Great tips
Love the videos guys
Thanks
Awesome video guys!! Ty
I enjoy watching your videos. I am subscribed watcher, and learned quite a bit. Here's a topic for you: What kind of bowling balls would be consider transition balls? Do they have to be pearls, hybrids, or solids with polish surfaces? It is one of my areas that I'm having with.
I always on almost all balls do 500 then 2000 for house shot. Found that trucut works way better then aberlon. I don't have to sand my balls near as much since switching.
I’ll go to my next tournament with 5 purple hammers with surface :) two pin down, two long pins, and a short pin. Pretty much all a lefty needs.
I hope u guys doing good miss seeing on your videos 📹 u both doing awesome job on UA-cam and bowling 🎳 be safe
Curious. How many times can you take a pad to the ball before the surface needs replaced (new ball)?
You can polish the ball with a pro shop polish that makes the surface return to shine. You would have to scuff your ball for like a year every day to where the ball would need to be entirely replaced because of weight. Even then it's like never going to happen because of resurfacing.
Yea oil soaking in the cover is more likely to ruin ball reaction well before excessive hand sanding ever does.
I just got my first ball, a Brunswick Igniter Solid. The spec page on their website says it's "Finish: 500, 2000 Siaair Micro Pad". Does this mean it is 2000 grit? Does this also mean if I change the surface that I can use a 2000 abralon pad to bring the ball back to its "original" state?
I have a tournament coming up at 43' chameleon (26ml units of oil) was thinking about putting 2000 tru cut pad to my idol pearl as its basically out of box.
Which abalon pad does Brad use on his lovely dome?
Thats a clean 3,000 ALL DAY
Easiest thumbs up I've ever seen :D
How do you get in the PBA?
What if you want it to go longer? And to make a ball less angular, and more continuis, could you take it to 2000 then polish it? And if it doesn't go long enough go to 3000 then put a polish on it?
Do we need a ball spinner to make ball shiny? Is there any other way to get ur ball shiny?
How you feel about putting polish on a solid.
If you're going to polish a solid, you'll probably want a lower grit sanding before hand like 1000 so that it can still read the oil in the midlane.
@@decadude8968 yeah I was going to take my sure lock that I haven’t been using and sand it to 1500 and polish it up.
Eggcellent advice. Just afraid I’ll ruin my ball. But I’ve got to do something. I’m not getting much reaction with my ball.
Resurfaced my statement and it was too strong Monday night. Gonna let it lane shine for a few weeks. Threw 2000 on it
After watch these videos as long as I have I just can't figure out why I can't get my ball to hook that much at the end any help would be nice
The dullness of that ball reminded me of my burgundy 🔨 hammer. It would glide through the oil but once a lane broke down it was uncontrollable.
Is there a difference when you hit a pearl with surface as opposed to a solid surface with the same grit?
Surface is surface.
What do you mean by "difference" ? That you get a different result with the same pad if it is a pearl or solid ball ?
@@bowlingxp8345 right.. thats my question
Not true
A solid is softer, so it definitely sands easier
I put 180 grit on my golden jackal 😂
So u bowl looking the opposite direction cause that is a literal boomerang lol
@@Jesus-is-LordofLords I wish, I throw it on heavy oil wood lanes all the time and I go straight and in so I really need the surface lol
Once you take a pad to a ball, is there any way to get it back? As basically a league bowler, I only carry a couple balls. So if I “add surface” to a ball has it forever been changed? It would seem so, so may be a silly question.
When you add surface you dull the ball with a pad and cause friction to hook the ball. if you want to remove surface you can polish the ball and cause less friction and less hook. So over time the lanes oil will cause what is called lane-shine causing less reaction. This is why bowlers always wipe there balls between throws. If you really pad the hell out of your ball, you can have your pro shop do a re surfacing. Remember to use products from your pro shop that are USBC safe. And once league starts you can't modify your balls surface anymore.
I would encourage you to check out Creating The Difference (CTD) video's to learn more about surface change(s).
Can you use the pad during league play? Or do you only use it before league bowling?
No.. no surface changes once play begins. And play begins once the 1st ball is thrown (by anyone) in competition. So if you’re in a tournament with 200 people bowling, once anyone throws a ball in frame 1, play has begun and you cannot alter the surface.
So I bowl league on some really old wood lanes that have the above ground ball return so moving far left isn't an option and the lanes transition so rapid. I use a IQTNP to start and it quickly becomes too much ball and try to go to a All road after. But nothing works either through the face or I get too much angle and leave 10's like crazy. Drop about 40 pins in average compared to normal lanes. Only bowlers who average high are low rev players going right up 5 and walking it in. But I have a high rev rate and can't do that. Most ridiculous lane conditions I've ever battled. What would you do to attack lanes like that.
Where is your oil track?
Old school wood lanes - get a urethane and join the people going up 5 ;) - Accuracy counts -
I’m actually getting a urethane ball, but not sure which storm urethane ball I should get. I normally throw around 15-18 mph, and the suggestion would really help
I got conditions like that on a house I league in and it’s annoying. I just pull out the white dot plastic and throw down 10 and it walks in
Can someone tell me why my purple hammer works best with a 180 surface on a 43 foot pattern🤨
Because it probably matches your speed/rotation/tilt for that pattern in that bowling alley.
Cdt tru cut are better
I prefer trucut to abralon. Longer use and the numbers on the pad are what is actually on the ball
I'm disappointed in Kyle. He's using abralon, after doing a video with Ron...
do you really need to press so hard on the pad to the ball? usually i could just turn a few time only and i can use 1 abralon pad for quite a few times more
Not really hard. But don't caress it either. Something in-between.
Well 2 things, he was only really pressing that hard to make the surface really rough and pick up early for the video. I highly doubt if he needed to put surface on a ball in a tournament that he would press that hard. Also pros go through so many abralon pads its insane, its not their first thought, they can always get more.
It's miller time
That ball reads at a 3rd grade level 👌
You bring a ball down to 500 surface and when it's unusable, you of course put it away. Now it's a day later or after the tournament and you want that ball back to what it was, say 3000. How do you do that? All videos show how to put surface on the ball but I can't find one about putting polish back on the ball. Advice...
Think of the ball surface like a piece of wood furniture you want to refinish. The 500 grit roughs the surface up, but add 1000 grit and that smooths the surface and 3000 would smooth the surface even more. Just like with wood, it’s often better to progressively move up to 1000 then 3000 to give the balk a more uniform finish. Once you bring the ball back to the grit you want, you can add polish.
Adding surface is a complete misnomer. You’re actually removing surface and finish, similar to wet sanding a cars paint where you’re cutting and leveling.
But. Is it ruined for life after?
I’ll smash 4 with 500 and the 5th with a 360, just in case...
Says every lefty
First
is that even legal i dont think so
You can't change the surface once competition begins. But anytime before then, including and up to the end of practice/warm-up, it's allowed.
Bruh moment
Also please clean your ball after resurfacing. nobody wants that dust on the approaches or in the oil.
First 🤣🤣
go the other way and polish the #$% out of a dull ball.