Thanks for the comment. It was a difficult one for me because i just do the job but sometimes find it hard to explain what i am doing! Thanks for watching!
Excellent presentation again. You always go above and beyond Rob to educate us. I really want to get this right. Just asking for talk sake if the valve itself was seized or the paddle wouldnt turn would you still be able to push the manual lever across or not. So basically if you can turn the lever across to open the valve then its the synchron motor is that correct. Is it possible for the valve to get stuck in the open position as well. Sorry about all the questions. Did you ever consider teaching this cos your absolutely class at it. Wish my plumbing course that i took in 2007 had you there teaching. you also have a lot of patience for us slower folk who maybe need to feel comfy and with you theres no such thing as a silly question. Thankyou and take care.
Thanks for the fantastic comment and sorry for the delayed reply! It has been a bit mad in our world lately! If the valve is seized you can still push the valve head open sometimes. If you push valve across and valve body is not seized then on a honeywell it is normally the sychron yes, However always good to pop the head off and check for a seized valve, Then turn power on to include programmers etc and check for a live feed on the brown wire on the motorized valve . If you have power then def synchron. some brands you cant change the syncron so new head needed. Have a great weekend! Rob
I always change a synchron motor if the valve body is in good condition… much easier than trying to wire a new head in like my colleagues do… especially on a wiring Center such as the one you had there. One point though, grey isn’t necessary 230v you may have a system that runs on 12/24v switching like some electric boilers, and light commercial Remeha’s etc 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the comment and yes i am aware of this . I should have mentioned it but was trying to concentrate on 230v. Also i never mentioned that some valves are diverters only and have no switch live! Have a good weekend and thanks for watching.
i can remember my first central heating fault. New years eve, time to go to bed and the gas boiler would not go off. Took central heating clock off the wall and boiler was still going, it turned out a microswitch in a 2 port valve had spiked its contacts. Ordered new microswitches from radio spares and replaced them. That was my very first fault !
Good video, personally I would only ever use the genuine synchronous Honeywell motors. I have had numerous aftermarket ones fail after a short period! (Accompanied with a disgruntled customer!) The EPH valve is good unit (service-wise) and seems to be a more reliable unit these days!
I agree mate with all you say but i come away from Honeywell ones again recently as i had a few poor ones again. IE would not even work when installed and stuck/ not turning before i even fit them. Have a good week!
Great video Rob. I, like yourself change many synchron motors. Especially with existing Honeywell valves. They rest of the valve and actuator are usually still fine! Could you please do a video on oil burner motors and replacing bearings? When you would recommend doing this and why? I've never replaced the bearings before. I replaced an RDB motor this week but kept the old one to have a mess around with. Was only 7/8 years old so suspect bearings could have been replaced? Cheers, John
@ 16:28 Are we all still awake ?🤣🤣🤣. Good tutorial as always... never boring if you have an interest in these things. Thank you.
Thanks for the comment mate. Keep up the good work
Very good. Nuggets of info very helpful.
Thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Really useful info, thanks so much Rob!
You welcome and thanks for the comment😁
Great content as usual mate. Really helpful video 👍🏻
Thanks for the comment. It was a difficult one for me because i just do the job but sometimes find it hard to explain what i am doing! Thanks for watching!
Excellent presentation again. You always go above and beyond Rob to educate us. I really want to get this right. Just asking for talk sake if the valve itself was seized or the paddle wouldnt turn would you still be able to push the manual lever across or not. So basically if you can turn the lever across to open the valve then its the synchron motor is that correct. Is it possible for the valve to get stuck in the open position as well. Sorry about all the questions. Did you ever consider teaching this cos your absolutely class at it. Wish my plumbing course that i took in 2007 had you there teaching. you also have a lot of patience for us slower folk who maybe need to feel comfy and with you theres no such thing as a silly question. Thankyou and take care.
Thanks for the fantastic comment and sorry for the delayed reply! It has been a bit mad in our world lately! If the valve is seized you can still push the valve head open sometimes. If you push valve across and valve body is not seized then on a honeywell it is normally the sychron yes, However always good to pop the head off and check for a seized valve, Then turn power on to include programmers etc and check for a live feed on the brown wire on the motorized valve . If you have power then def synchron. some brands you cant change the syncron so new head needed. Have a great weekend! Rob
@@BartonOilBurnerServices Thankyou so much Rob,really helpful.
Very well explained 🎉
Thank you for the great comment!
I always change a synchron motor if the valve body is in good condition… much easier than trying to wire a new head in like my colleagues do… especially on a wiring Center such as the one you had there.
One point though, grey isn’t necessary 230v you may have a system that runs on 12/24v switching like some electric boilers, and light commercial Remeha’s etc
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the comment and yes i am aware of this . I should have mentioned it but was trying to concentrate on 230v. Also i never mentioned that some valves are diverters only and have no switch live! Have a good weekend and thanks for watching.
Also, on a Zoned Systems & a Combi. The Micro Switches are powers by the Combi PCB.
Good point Stephen👍
i can remember my first central heating fault. New years eve, time to go to bed and the gas boiler would not go off. Took central heating clock off the wall and boiler was still going, it turned out a microswitch in a 2 port valve had spiked its contacts. Ordered new microswitches from radio spares and replaced them. That was my very first fault !
Great effort that. keep up the good work!
Great vid. Can you do a 3port valve please
Hi. Thanks foer the comment. I do plan to do one sometime soon. Have a good week!
Boiler Interlock explained👍
Thanks for the comment. Have a good week.
Good video, personally I would only ever use the genuine synchronous Honeywell motors. I have had numerous aftermarket ones fail after a short period! (Accompanied with a disgruntled customer!) The EPH valve is good unit (service-wise) and seems to be a more reliable unit these days!
I agree, I tried the cheaper motors for a while and most of them failed again within the year! Only fit the original Hansen USA motors now
I agree mate with all you say but i come away from Honeywell ones again recently as i had a few poor ones again. IE would not even work when installed and stuck/ not turning before i even fit them. Have a good week!
Great video Rob.
I, like yourself change many synchron motors. Especially with existing Honeywell valves. They rest of the valve and actuator are usually still fine!
Could you please do a video on oil burner motors and replacing bearings? When you would recommend doing this and why? I've never replaced the bearings before.
I replaced an RDB motor this week but kept the old one to have a mess around with. Was only 7/8 years old so suspect bearings could have been replaced?
Cheers, John
Hi. I will do a bit on motors in my next vlog for you. Have a good week. Rob
Not too fond of tower motors .I try to stick to motors made in usa
Thanks for the comment. They are just ones we had kicking around. I normally try and get Drayton ones. Keep up the good work!