I wondered about insetting hex nuts but was concerned they would work themselves loose too. I am going to make my own threaded nut from mild 1/;4" mild steel plate steel that I can attach firmly with some larger screws or even nuts and bolts directly to the carriage. I have done something similar in the past that worked well, am hoping this will too. I will try to remember to post a pic on woodworkweb when this is done. Hey, thanks for commenting, great to have you with us. Colin
Hi Andy, that cranks came off an old radial arm saw that died on me and just wasn't worth repairing. I saved a few pieces that I thought I might be able to use some time and one of them was the crank. There must be similar cranks on other tools that could be purchased as a "part", if I find one I will let you know. Thanks for taking the time to comment on this topic Colin
Hi Tom, yup, you are right. What I did was install the first one, then on the second, cut the 4 sharp teeth off, then threaded the second nut into place and with 4 small screws, I used the indentations in the nut to secure it to the carriage. I am not in love with this part of the construction, but it works. Am going to work on a better method as I think over time the little screws may work themselves loose. Email me if you have more questions, not enough room here Colin
Sorry, I don't have info on that ... not sure who would but if you find something, let me know, we should post that. Thanks for commenting, great to have you with us Colin
Hi Jim, sorry for the delay getting back to you, there was something that we had to change with the read-rod but I don't recall what the issue was. At any rate, I just re-check and we are using 3/8x16 Colin
Yes, I position the carriage so that it is at the edge of where the saw will make the first cut, then I secure the crank at that point. That way it is easier for me to count the turns, and the joint start off at the top (or bottom) of the wood each time ... but, experiment with it, and see what works best for you. Hope this helped. Thanks for the comment, great to have you with us Colin
Hi John, thanks for the question, if you go to our main website and scroll down to the video, we have links there for you. Great to have you with us Colin
I love this idea, but am having trouble visualizing exactly how it works ... any chance of shooting us a pic we can post on woodworkweb about this ... with credit to you of course :) I think others would love to see this too ... thanks a bunch for post Colin
Hola Kenetch !! Lamento no hablar tu idioma pero me las arreglo con el traductor de Google, antes que nada felicitarte por tus buenos proyectos; pero este me pareció el mejor de todos, es lo que necesito !! ¿ Serías amable de enviarme el plano con las medidas ? junto a detalles como la varilla de hierro, ¿ es roscada ? Feliz Año para vos, desde Argentina un saludo. Ove-
Hello Collin, thanks a lot for all the detailed information. Have you got an explanation for the metric rod, too. But once again, thank you for this amazing jig
Thanks for the fine video and a simple solution to the box joint fixture. I like the idea of using the two tee nuts (one on each side of the work holding fixtgure). The use of the two tee nuts allow elimination of backlash in the threads and more accurate spacing of the box joint slots
I was wondering what the crank you are using is from or where it came feom?!? I suppose using certain tyoes of window cranks would work?!? Thanks fir your time! Andy
No problem ... we'll figure it out some way between us, and youtube doesn't let us post websites or emails here so here is the short version ... email me at woodman at our main website name. Colin
You have the rod going through two fixed t-nuts. How did you get them to both align with the threads of the rod without creating any pressure or tension between them? If you set them both in place then fed the rod through them, it's unlikely the threads of the second one would align with threads of the rod passing through the first one.
Additional note: You could get away with not using the metal tubes if you counter sunk the washers on each side of the plywood, this would prevent slipping over time.
Something I would add to the box joint machine is a short metal tube that the all thread will just fit through that will go into the plywood on both side's, then follow the rest of the assembly. This will prevent the threads from chewing up the plywood making the action sloppier as time goes on.
Do you have an exact stopping point where the handel should stop how would I know if I turned it exactly 4 turns or 8 turns I might have only turned it a bit under 4 or 8 or over
Even better would be to countersink some Skate bearings into each side of the plywood using a forstner bit, then pass the rod through the bearings and tighten the nuts against the bearing hubs. I've used this method for other jigs and it works very well.
well explained. thanks for posting..do you require to change the back board of carriage once a while? just wondering if it gets cut everytime you move it from side to side
Hello Jack, yeah it does take a bit of fiddling. I cut the tangs off one of the nuts then screwed it in. When it is in place, and not binding but working smoothly, I used a couple of very small screws to fasten the T-nut in place so it won't spin. Hope this helps ... Colin
+fevve4 From what I understand it is illegal to sell dado blades but not illegal to own one, too bad, I would love to know what the reasoning for that was ... but anyway yes, the other alternative to this is to use a router instead of a table saw. The bit in the router would be a straight bit and would do at least as good a job but a bit slower., but otherwise it's the same principal
I think it will be possible. First you cut from left to right with 8 turns till the end. Then you take 2 turns back and cut from right to left and use again 8 turns.
Luis alberto It is a little bit tricky, it took a couple of so tries, you first need to secure the T nuts on the carriage and you need to do it so that the threaded runs smoothly on both. When that is done you then use locking nuts on either side of the frame to ensure the rod stays in place ... Hope I explained this ok, if not let me know
+WoodWorkWeb One way of eliminating play, is to put a piece of flexible material under the T-nuts. A few plys of inner tube from a bicycle tire should be enough. Compress the material as much as possible, when inserting the rod. Afterwards, the expansion will force the nuts to the extremes of the play in the rod. It will add some friction, but with the relative light load, this wont wear the threads out.
I can foresee some difficulty in alignment if the sides are cut individually. If you make the cuts in pairs, that is a very important bit of information you left out. My point is the accuracy of the turns is not exact or consistent. If you start a few thousandths early or late, you will have a problem in assembly when cut individually. The only way I see it working with accuracy is by cutting in pairs with the pieces a step offset.
Great job on the videos, Colin. I do host those original plans on my site. I see a lot of questions asked below about aligning the two T-nuts so that they do not bind. Actually they will find their own position easily enough. Ideally you want them locked into place at the extremes just before binding. This eliminates any backlash and makes for solid travel. If the handle turns any, the carriage moves. No delay at all when turn the opposite direction. Here is a link at Mcmaster to some nice T-nuts that are better than the standard cleat type. www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-inserts/=reznto I intend to add your video links to my site as well. Keep up the great work. :) Lee
Hi Lee, great to hear from you, thanks for posting this on the T-nuts and thanks for that link. I am also going to post that in the article. Great to have you with us, keep up the good work on your side too :) Colin
LOL ... thanks for the lesson in elocution Art, my good buddies from Alabama are always ribbing me about "PROJECT" ... always fun to have another joining the group :) Colin
I wondered about insetting hex nuts but was concerned they would work themselves loose too. I am going to make my own threaded nut from mild 1/;4" mild steel plate steel that I can attach firmly with some larger screws or even nuts and bolts directly to the carriage. I have done something similar in the past that worked well, am hoping this will too. I will try to remember to post a pic on woodworkweb when this is done.
Hey, thanks for commenting, great to have you with us.
Colin
Hi Andy, that cranks came off an old radial arm saw that died on me and just wasn't worth repairing. I saved a few pieces that I thought I might be able to use some time and one of them was the crank. There must be similar cranks on other tools that could be purchased as a "part", if I find one I will let you know.
Thanks for taking the time to comment on this topic
Colin
Thanks for taking the time to comment, great to have you with us
Colin
Thanks for the note Ricardo ... great to have you with us
Colin
Ho John, thanks for taking the time to comment, great to have you with us.
Colin
Hi Tom, yup, you are right. What I did was install the first one, then on the second, cut the 4 sharp teeth off, then threaded the second nut into place and with 4 small screws, I used the indentations in the nut to secure it to the carriage. I am not in love with this part of the construction, but it works. Am going to work on a better method as I think over time the little screws may work themselves loose.
Email me if you have more questions, not enough room here
Colin
Sorry, I don't have info on that ... not sure who would but if you find something, let me know, we should post that.
Thanks for commenting, great to have you with us
Colin
Hmmm that's a good idea too, thanks for commeting
Great to have you with us
Colin
Thanks for posting Leonardo, we appreciate your input
Colin
Hi Jim, sorry for the delay getting back to you, there was something that we had to change with the read-rod but I don't recall what the issue was. At any rate, I just re-check and we are using 3/8x16
Colin
That was very informative. I will build one of these as soon as the weather warms up out in the garage.
Yes, I position the carriage so that it is at the edge of where the saw will make the first cut, then I secure the crank at that point. That way it is easier for me to count the turns, and the joint start off at the top (or bottom) of the wood each time ... but, experiment with it, and see what works best for you. Hope this helped.
Thanks for the comment, great to have you with us
Colin
Hi John, thanks for the question, if you go to our main website and scroll down to the video, we have links there for you.
Great to have you with us
Colin
Has anyone mentioned the need to run "Spell Checker" on 'THREAD' (on the whiteboard)?
Love your videos, which are most helpful for this novice!
I love this idea, but am having trouble visualizing exactly how it works ... any chance of shooting us a pic we can post on woodworkweb about this ... with credit to you of course :)
I think others would love to see this too ... thanks a bunch for post
Colin
Hola Kenetch !!
Lamento no hablar tu idioma pero me las arreglo con el traductor de Google, antes que nada felicitarte por tus buenos proyectos; pero este me pareció el mejor de todos, es lo que necesito !! ¿ Serías amable de enviarme el plano con las medidas ? junto a detalles como la varilla de hierro, ¿ es roscada ? Feliz Año para vos, desde Argentina un saludo. Ove-
john g, Where can I get plans for this jig. Best jig I have seen in operation
Hello Collin, thanks a lot for all the detailed information. Have you got an explanation for the metric rod, too.
But once again, thank you for this amazing jig
I like this idea ... I might to have to make Version 2 soon ;)
Colin
Thanks for the fine video and a simple solution to the box joint fixture. I like the idea of using the two tee nuts (one on each side of the work holding fixtgure). The use of the two tee nuts allow elimination of backlash in the threads and more accurate spacing of the box joint slots
Gordon Eckler You are correct Gordon, very good point, yes they help make a tighter joint. Thanks for commenting
Colin
Great jig Colin. Going to check out your website now. Thanks
I was wondering what the crank you are using is from or where it came feom?!? I suppose using certain tyoes of window cranks would work?!? Thanks fir your time! Andy
No problem ... we'll figure it out some way between us, and youtube doesn't let us post websites or emails here so here is the short version ... email me at woodman at our main website name.
Colin
Excellent video, very well explained
You have the rod going through two fixed t-nuts. How did you get them to both align with the threads of the rod without creating any pressure or tension between them? If you set them both in place then fed the rod through them, it's unlikely the threads of the second one would align with threads of the rod passing through the first one.
Additional note: You could get away with not using the metal tubes if you counter sunk the washers on each side of the plywood, this would prevent slipping over time.
Thank you very much!! What is the best tread for 5/8 or 3/4 joints???
Ok thanks colin. Also thanks for the quick reply! Andy
Something I would add to the box joint machine is a short metal tube that the all thread will just fit through that will go into the plywood on both side's, then follow the rest of the assembly. This will prevent the threads from chewing up the plywood making the action sloppier as time goes on.
Do you have an exact stopping point where the handel should stop how would I know if I turned it exactly 4 turns or 8 turns I might have only turned it a bit under 4 or 8 or over
Even better would be to countersink some Skate bearings into each side of the plywood using a forstner bit, then pass the rod through the bearings and tighten the nuts against the bearing hubs. I've used this method for other jigs and it works very well.
dose it matter what side rod you use 10mm or 8mm
well explained. thanks for posting..do you require to change the back board of carriage once a while? just wondering if it gets cut everytime you move it from side to side
Pépé le pioue l
an added tip would be to be sure to time the two T-nuts in position for smooth turning of the threaded rod
why on one video you say to use 7/16 all thread and on the other you say to use 3/8 what is the right one?
I wish you had disassembled the ready rod and handle so show how the rod stays locked as the handle is cranked.
How did you get the two T-nuts aligned so the threaded rod does not bind?
Hello Jack, yeah it does take a bit of fiddling. I cut the tangs off one of the nuts then screwed it in. When it is in place, and not binding but working smoothly, I used a couple of very small screws to fasten the T-nut in place so it won't spin.
Hope this helps ...
Colin
What a great way to do finger joints. Simple enough that even I can do it. Thanks!
***** Thanks for commenting Gary
You misspelled "thread". Ha Ha Just had to rub it in. Love your channel!
I made this jig and I am using a single regular blade. My joints are very tight. To tight to allow glue. How can I loosen up the fingers?
I've been trying to figure this exact thing out. All the jigs (except William NG's) do not allow loosening of too tight joints.
Thanks for clarifying :) wish I had of known the 16 thing before hand, but no biggee.
Is it possible to do this without two blades or a dadoblade? Dado is not legal here in Europe. Fredrik, Norway
+fevve4 From what I understand it is illegal to sell dado blades but not illegal to own one, too bad, I would love to know what the reasoning for that was ... but anyway yes, the other alternative to this is to use a router instead of a table saw. The bit in the router would be a straight bit and would do at least as good a job but a bit slower., but otherwise it's the same principal
I think it will be possible. First you cut from left to right with 8 turns till the end. Then you take 2 turns back and cut from right to left and use again 8 turns.
How best to align the two t-nuts on the carriage with the one on the side of the box ?
Luis alberto It is a little bit tricky, it took a couple of so tries, you first need to secure the T nuts on the carriage and you need to do it so that the threaded runs smoothly on both. When that is done you then use locking nuts on either side of the frame to ensure the rod stays in place ...
Hope I explained this ok, if not let me know
+WoodWorkWeb One way of eliminating play, is to put a piece of flexible material under the T-nuts. A few plys of inner tube from a bicycle tire should be enough. Compress the material as much as possible, when inserting the rod. Afterwards, the expansion will force the nuts to the extremes of the play in the rod. It will add some friction, but with the relative light load, this wont wear the threads out.
I will try that ... thanks
I can foresee some difficulty in alignment if the sides are cut individually. If you make the cuts in pairs, that is a very important bit of information you left out. My point is the accuracy of the turns is not exact or consistent. If you start a few thousandths early or late, you will have a problem in assembly when cut individually. The only way I see it working with accuracy is by cutting in pairs with the pieces a step offset.
Great job on the videos, Colin.
I do host those original plans on my site. I see a lot of questions asked below about aligning the two T-nuts so that they do not bind. Actually they will find their own position easily enough. Ideally you want them locked into place at the extremes just before binding. This eliminates any backlash and makes for solid travel. If the handle turns any, the carriage moves. No delay at all when turn the opposite direction.
Here is a link at Mcmaster to some nice T-nuts that are better than the standard cleat type.
www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-inserts/=reznto
I intend to add your video links to my site as well. Keep up the great work. :)
Lee
Hi Lee, great to hear from you, thanks for posting this on the T-nuts and thanks for that link. I am also going to post that in the article.
Great to have you with us, keep up the good work on your side too :)
Colin
Lee Styron.
the o in project is pronounced as a short o not a long 1 ,
LOL ... thanks for the lesson in elocution Art, my good buddies from Alabama are always ribbing me about "PROJECT" ... always fun to have another joining the group :)
Colin
LOL. any times, keep the video's coming.